What is the best sealer for my garage floor? This question is probably asked more than any other when it comes to sealing the concrete in a garage. As simple as this question seems to be, the answer needs to be preceded with a few more questions, such as; How much money do you want to spend, are you going to do it yourself or hire a contractor, does the outward appearance matter, how long are you willing to be without your garage, and how do you plan to use it?
As you can see, it’s kind of like asking a shoe salesman what the best shoe is. There are too many variables to consider. With these questions in mind, let’s look at the different options available and see if we can determine what the best garage floor sealer is for you.
In terms of durability, appearance and quality, most people will agree that the best sealers for a garage floor are the multi-coat epoxy and polyurethane systems. These coatings offer maximum performance in terms of protection for your garage floor while delivering amazing looks at the same time. They provide protection against chemicals, oils, gasoline, road salts, water, and staining.
Epoxy floor systems also prevent spalling from freeze thaw damage, they are very difficult to scratch or chip, and can last ten to fifteen years or more depending on the type of application. These sealers are so tough they are used commercially for warehouses, manufacturing, showrooms, restaurants, and many other industrial applications.
So why doesn’t everyone use a multi-coat epoxy sealer for their garage floors? The answer lies in both cost and application. As wonderful as these sealers are, they are more expensive to use and sometimes difficult to install properly for the average homeowner. A contractor will charge between $4 and $5 a square foot to install this type of system. If you are fairly confident in your DIY skills as a homeowner however, you can install a multi-coat epoxy flooring for around $500 to $600 dollars in materials and supplies for a typical two-car garage depending on the product you choose.
Don’t expect to install a multi-coat epoxy garage floor in one day though. Four days is the typical amount of time that is needed before your garage can be returned to service after the sealers are applied. This is due to the curing time needed for 2-part resinous sealers.
If you can’t go that long without your garage, there are very tough polyaspartic garage floor systems that are available with the same looks and similar protection as epoxy. Your garage can be returned to service by the next day, but at a price. These systems are generally installed by a professional floor coating contractor and pricing usually starts at close to $6.00 a square foot.
The next option that still falls in the category of epoxies would be the epoxy paint kits that you can purchase online or at your local home improvement centers such as Home Depot, Ace Hardware, or Lowe’s for example. These kits start as low as $69 for enough epoxy paint to seal a one-car garage with one thin coat and some paint chips to throw on top for looks and some anti-slip properties. These are fairly easy to apply and can be ready for use the next day.
The issue with these kits however is their durability. If installed properly they will last for a few years or so if your garage doesn’t see much use. The biggest problem is they tend to wear due to hot tire pickup or peel from not cleaning the concrete correctly.
When looking into the option of epoxy paint or epoxy coatings, it’s important to understand the difference in materials and terminology. We recommend reading this article about the differences between epoxy and paint.
If you don’t want to spend the time or effort in concrete preparation for an epoxy sealer but you would still like a glossy looking floor, then an acrylic sealer may be what you need. Applied on bare concrete, this type of sealer will highlight your bare concrete with a clear acrylic coating. It’s not the best sealer for a garage floor, but it will give moderate protection against chemicals, stains, oil, water, and creates a dustless surface just as other coatings do.
You can apply it with a pump up sprayer or roller with minimal preparation of the concrete other than cleaning up any oil stains and scrubbing your floor prior to application. Some fairly dense concrete floors may require a mild acid wash. Once applied, you can walk on it by the end of the day and drive on it the next. Most quality acrylic sealers will last 18 to 24 months before you need to reapply it.
A good acrylic sealer will cost $30 – $40 a gallon. Depending on the manufacturer, one gallon will treat between 200 and 400 square feet. So if you don’t want to spend a lot of money or invest a lot of time into your garage floor, then an acrylic sealer may be the best sealer for you.
If you don’t need a glossy coating and don’t mind the look of your bare concrete, then a penetrating garage floor sealer is a popular choice. The cost and installation is similar to that of acrylic sealers, but they will last for years without the need for re-coating. They penetrate into the concrete and create a sealed barrier at the surface. These are considered non film forming since they do not coat the top of the surface like other sealers.
These are one of the best concrete garage floor sealers in terms of value for protecting against road salts, concrete dusting, spalling, and pitting. They also provide for the same slip protection as bare concrete.
Finally there are also concrete densifiers that are starting to become popular as a garage floor sealing option. Though technically not a sealer, densifiers chemically change the surface of the concrete by filling the pores to make it more dense and stronger. This density helps to create a layer that most liquids cannot penetrate. They are the easiest to apply as well. Once the concrete is clean, you just mop or roll it onto the concrete.
There are a lot of variables to determine what the best garage floor sealer would be for you. If it’s in the budget, then a multi-coat professional grade epoxy coating would be your best choice. However, if you need to get the best protection and looks that you can for less money, then the other choices are very good alternatives depending on your needs.
Simon sez says
I didn’t know there were that many choices to make for an epoxy floor. I think I’m just going to go with an acrylic sealer. It seems like the easiest way to go.
jeff johnson says
I just had a new garage concrete slab installed and in 28 days I want to install an epoxy sealer. Do I need to prep the concrete?
Shea says
Hey Jeff. Yes, you still need to prep the concrete properly before you install your epoxy coating of choice. New concrete in particular can be troweled smooth which closes many of the pores that the epoxy needs to adhere to. You might want to read this article about grinding or acid etching your concrete to learn more about the process.
ConcreteMan says
With all non-acrylic and non-penetrating sealers, you need to be concerned about vapor transmission. It is or should be a major concern for the installation of non-breathable coatings on grade and it is a major cause of blushing and/or delaminations. For acrylics, you need to be concerned about plasticizer migration i.e. hot tire pickup that is a major problem with acrylic sealers. There is a lot more to a proper, long lasting installation of these products than what you will read online or hear from the “expert” at “Home Cheapo”!
Shea says
Hello ConcreteMan. What you say rings true. That is why we can’t stress proper floor preparation enough when applying a sealer of choice as well as doing a moisture test.
Kyle says
About a week ago I finished applying the 2nd coat and flakes to my garage floor and used the 1 part epoxy by Behr from Home Depot. I have yet to lay down a good clear coat because of time, curing, and most of all I’m not sure which one to use. What is a good clear coat finish I can put on top of my 1 part epoxy with flakes in the garage? The guy at Home Depot recommended Seal-Krete’s Floor Tex TopCoat, but I am second guessing his advice.
Shea says
Hi Kyle. You are correct to not use the Seal-Krete product. It is not a clear coat and is a decorative coating for use outside. Behr does not make an epoxy clear coat but they do have a low luster and wet look clear acrylic sealer that they say can be applied to paint. A better product would be the Rust-Oleum Professional Clear Coat to top coat the floor.
In order to apply either product though, you will need to rough up the surface of the epoxy paint with some 100 grit paper and then wipe it down with denatured alcohol in order for the clear coat to adhere. Ideally you apply the clear within 24 hours of application of the color coat to avoid this step.
Thomas says
Had an professional painter paint ,flake and seal my garage floor. He used an acrylic water based sealer. Now I can’t have any thing rubber sit on it because it sticks or leaves black tried marks. I want to put another coat on the floor but dont want to use the waterm based acrylic again. What can I use without stripping off the existing coat?
Shea says
Hi Thomas. Unfortunately the only product you can apply over water based acrylic is another water based product. The solvent based products will soften it up and cause problems. You will need to remove the coating first.
John C says
We painted our garage floor with a sliicone acrylic
Concrete waterproofing sealer after acid washing the floor first. We have several small areas where the sealer is flaking off the concrete. We know our concrete had some effervescence issues. Our question is can we repair these areas with the Behr concrete bonding primer and then repaint with our original silicone acrylic sealer?
Shea says
Hello John. Concrete bonding primer is a white colored paint primer designed to help latex paint and adhesives stick to concrete. It’s not a sealer, nor will it stop efflorescence. Is your acrylic sealer solvent based? If so, two things will cause flaking. The first is putting it on too thick. Acrylic sealers need to go on with very thin coats. Thick coats are bad and will cause the sealer to blush (turn white) from not allowing the sealer to breath. Moisture gets trapped under the coating and then it flakes off. The second is from not letting the concrete dry thoroughly after acid washing before application of the sealer. Though it may look dry on the surface, a thin film of moisture can remain on the surface for up to two days or more depending on weather conditions. This will cause the same problem. If the problem persists, either reason may require stripping the sealer from the surface and then reapplying in two thin coats.
In the meantime, our suggestion is to clean these areas well and let them dry thoroughly. After that, apply two thin coats of the sealer over the areas and see how they hold up.
Daniel McNerney says
Shea i have a garage floor with an existing coating i tested with laquer thinner on a rag the coating came off on the rag telling me it an acrylic base the floor is tight just needs to be spruced up . my plan is to power wash it allow to dry and sand lightly c an i then apply the dry lock 1 part epoxy thanks for your advice
Shea says
Hello Daniel. Generally you can apply a latex acrylic paint over an acrylic sealer in this manner. Technically, the 1-Part epoxy paint is an acrylic. We suggest you do a small 5″ square test section first to verify. Once the paint is dry, cut an X in the center with a razor knife. Firmly apply a piece of 5” duct tape over the center of the X cut and then pull it off with a fast snap. If more than 10% of the taped area is removed from the acrylic coating, then it is not bonded well and needs to be removed chemically or mechanically with a grinder before applying the paint.
Andre Brassard says
Okay we just bought a 40 year old house. Garage has some cracks in it and uneven a bit in places after the years. This doesn’t bother me. Me and my son have modified Jeeps and will do some mechanics and oil changes etc. ourselves. Don’t want a glossy look. This is not for looks but for work and play 🙂
So what would be recommended in this situation and we’ll do it ourselves.
Shea says
Hello Andre. Since cosmetics don’t seem much a concern, we’re assuming you just want something that will help with resisting oil stains and make cleanup easier? If so, a siliconate sealer may be what you need or for a little more protection, there is this combo here.
Tacoman says
Hi Shea,
Thanks for the write up. I recently acid stained my garage floor a walnut color. Upon recommendation, I sealed it with H&C Clarishield Oil Based Concrete Sealer. I applied 2 coats in opposite directions. It looked great for the 4 days I let it cure. I have parked a car on it once, and it appears to have already scratched the surface. Even lighter vehicles like a motorcycle pushed in seem to do the same thing. Do you have any thoughts on why or what I could do to fix it? Not sure if another coat of sealer or different kind would help. Thanks in advance!
Shea says
The issue is with your sealer Tacoman. H&C Oil Based Concrete Sealer is not designed for cars and garage floors. For example, if you check their data sheet, it does not state anything about garages and when it’s safe to drive on it after application. It’s an outdoor sealer for heavy foot traffic only. Unfortunately what you will need to do to solve the problem is remove it completely in order to apply a proper epoxy or polyurea sealer over it. An MMA acrylic would work as well, but it’s not as durable. The only way to do it successfully is to grind it off. The oils in the sealer will repel any other sealer unless it is completely gone. Doing this may require re-staining the concrete as well.
Mike C says
I have a single car garage that I am looking into turning into a gym. We don’t park our car in there. We are looking to put down the thick rubber flooring as a base for the equipment and workout area. I’m mainly looking to get a clean surface and keep moisture out between the garage floor and rubber floors. Just don’t know if I can dip into lower cost items due to not using it for a car, or if I need a higher quality seal for moisture resistance. I also would like something durable due to the weather swings of our area (hot, humid summers, cold winters) and so I don’t have to reseal every year or so. Any suggestions?
Shea says
Hello Mike. There are two ways to go about this. You can either apply a coating or a penetrating sealer. A coating is most effective since it does not breathe and will not allow moisture vapor to transmit from under the slab to the surface. Providing you don’t have any high moisture issues that would prevent you from applying a coating, you will never get moisture under the flooring. One coat of a clear single part polyurea would be the easiest to apply. Nohr-S by Legacy Industrial and SPGX by ArmorPoxy are good examples. These coatings would last 15 years or more under the conditions you describe. It would also require that you etch or grind the surface before application.
A penetrating sealer would be the least expensive and easiest to apply. It would only need to be reapplied once every 10 years or so. PS101 or Armor SC25 are good examples and we talk about them here. While these work great at blocking moisture and chemicals from the top in order to protect the concrete, penetrating sealers still allow some moisture vapor to pass through the concrete from under the slab. Moisture vapor evaporates at the surface, however, there is a chance that if you get enough it will condensate under the mats.
Nancy says
Hello, What kind of sealant should be used on a new garage floor that has recently been painted with an epoxy paint and left to dry the required period of time? Thanks for your thoughts on this! Nancy
Shea says
Hello Nancy. What type of product did you use exactly? Was it a two part epoxy coating or was it a 1-part epoxy paint?
Mar Gallen says
Too many choices…I want to seal our garage floor so that it repels stains and is shiny. At least a 10 year warranty would be great.
Our home is 8 years old, the garage floor has a few long cracks.
We live in southern Alabama. Roll Tide!
Shea says
Hello Mar. Are looking for something to apply yourself or do you want to hire a company to do it? The reason we are asking has to do with warranties. No company gives a 10 warranty on product that you are applying yourself. Most have warranties for product defects within the first year of purchase and that is it. If the product is defective, you usually find out within days or weeks. Even then, product defects are extremely rare when it comes to sealers and coatings. You can, however, apply some very nice coatings yourself that will easily last 10 years or more. If you are looking to hire a company, some will give warranties for wear as well as defects, but you have to read the fine print carefully.
Victoria says
Hello Shea,
I just built a new 2 car garage attached to my house and I want to know how long I have to wait before the cement cures to apply a finish. Also, I live by a salt water bay and we get a lot of salty air, is there a product that would be best for this environment? Please send a response to my email address as well so I am sure to see it.
Thanks
Vic
Shea says
Hi Victoria. You need to wait a minimum of 30 days for the concrete to cure and release water vapor before you can apply a finish. Since you mention a “finish”, we are assuming you are referring to a coating and not a penetrating sealer since they do not create a finish. Based on that assumption, any high quality coating (epoxy, polyurea, polyaspartic, and etc) will stand up just fine to salty air. We recommend that you stay away from the inexpensive kits that you find at home improvement centers. These are lower quality, lower solids kits that will not perform as well.
Binh Dinh says
Hi,
I just finished acid staining my garage floor (with the Eagle brand Bronze Concrete Acid Stain). I like the stain but I’m not sure about their 5 gal. Supreme Seal Clear High Gloss Solvent-Based Acrylic Concrete Sealer.
I like the idea of giving the floors a wet look since it brings out the color of the stain, but I don’t know how strong the sealer is. Is there a recommendation? Should I look for a polyurethane base sealer? If so, what do you recommend that I can buy at either Home Depot or Lowes?
And is waxing a good idea for garage floors, or needed?
I’d hate to have to redo the seal from time to time after all this work prepping & staining.
Shea says
Hello Binh. You are not going find anything at a home improvement center that will be real durable for a garage in terms of topical sealers. The Eagle brand acyrlic sealer will make the stain color “pop” and add a nice gloss, but it will scratch fairly easy and not stand up to chemicals from petroleum products very well. It will require the occasional touch up depending on how busy your garage is. If you just park your cars, then it will do better. If you do projects or work on your cars, it will suffer some abuse. Waxing the surface is not recommended for a garage floor.
Our recommendation would be one of the newer single part polyurea clear coatings that are available. They are easy to apply and extremely durable. SPGX by ArmorPoxy is an example as well as Nohr-S by Legacy Industrial. You have to purchase these type of products online, however from concrete flooring vendors. Polyurethane is is a great clear coat, but it does not adhere to concrete well by itself. It needs an epoxy base to go down first. Do not confuse polyurethane wood coatings, which you can find at your local home improvement center with, with polyurethane concrete floor coatings. They are not the same and will ruin your finish.
Nathan Eldred says
I am laying down a solvent based dye on my garage floor. The floor/house is non sealed concrete and the house is 30 years old. I pressure washed the floor and degreased it. It feels dry and clean to the touch. Is the polyurea you recommend the best way to go? I don’t want to have to wet grind the floor if I don’t have to. I need the floor to be waterproof and preferably hard to avoid any damage from dropping heavy tools etc. A clear high gloss finish would be preferred. Thanks.
Shea says
Yes, Nathan, a single-part polyurea clear coat is excellent for that. We have a new article here that discusses the advantages of this type of coating. Though your concrete is old, you will still need to acid etch the concrete in order to provide the correct profile for the polyurea to penetrate and achieve a good mechanical bite. Since you will be using a solvent dye, etching the concrete before you dye will not have an affect on the outcome of the staining process.
Stephany GIll says
Hello,
I have a 600 sq. feet of an unfinished basement and Im trying to find the right product in order to achieve a specific look. I don’t like the way solid paint looks. Im going for a very simple modern look where you see some slight imperfections of the concrete and a nice gloss. It would be a heavy traffic area and i would like to have little maintenance.
Shea says
Hello Stephany. Are you looking for a clear coating?
Ken Y. says
What is the best type of sealant, if any, for a garage floor with efflorescence and what is the recommended method for treating/cleaning the efflorescence prior to application of the sealant?
Shea says
Hello Ken. If you plan on staying with the bare concrete look then a densifier with sealer added would be your best choice. We have an article here about how they work, including a product we recommend. The best way to clean the efflorescence before you treat it is to use a mild acid etch. A solution of 1 part acid to 8 parts water will usually be strong enough. You will need to lightly scrub it with a deck brush while it is working. This article about acid etching outlines the general steps.
Andy Endsley says
Thanks for providing this information. Just bought a 10 year old hous and the garage floor is is good shape. It appears to have a clear sealer which I don’t think is acrylic. I’m interested in using either penetrating or densities. Can either one be applied over previous sealer?
Andy
Shea says
Hi Andy. It sounds like you have a topical, film forming sealer. In other word, a clear coating. If so, you can’t apply a penetrating sealer over it because it will just sit there and eventually evaporate since the concrete is already sealed. Penetrating sealers need to penetrate into the concrete in order to do their work. What are you trying to accomplish and why do you think you need to apply a penetrating sealer if the concrete already has a clear coating?
Andy Endsley says
Thanks Shea, I live in upstate NY and the salt that drips off the cars will eventually pit the surface of the cement floor. Some areas exposed to this show minor pitting. I want to use a clear application to prevent this from occurring. Price and process are not an issue, just want to prevent deterioration and pick a product that will work..
Shea says
Hello Andy. We recommend contacting ArmorPoxy. They are located in New Jersey and have a product called SPGX that would work nicely for you. They can advise you on application and any repairs that need to be made. We have an article on SPGX here that also includes ArmorPoxy contact info.
John says
Hi. I am looking for a good viable solution to a dampening issue I am having. One area of my garage floor has moisture rising up through the slab and leaves efflorescence on the concrete. It doesn’t puddle up, it just looks damp when humid air hits it. Should I use a penetrating sealant? If so, are there products with a penetrating Sealant in them so my garage floor doesn’t look bare?
Shea says
Hello John. Most likely what is happening is that moisture escaping from that area of your slab is not able to evaporate fast enough on humid days, thus making the concrete damp. You have two types of sealers for concrete. The first are penetrating sealers which leave your concrete looking just as it was before you applied it – bare. The second are film forming sealers. These leave a topical coating on top of the concrete. They can be clear in appearance or colored, such as epoxy. Most film forming sealers are non breathable which is not good when you have moisture issues, though there are some exceptions such as acrylics. Is your goal to achieve a decorative look to your concrete (clear glossy sealer, colored, etc) or do you just want to stop the moisture intrusion and seal your concrete?
jen says
We have a dog that goes to the bathroom on the concrete. It now smells and we aren’t sure what to do.
We do not want to get rid of the dog. What sealer should we use. No more smell!
Thanks-
jen
Shea says
Hello Jen. We cover how to eliminate the odor in the article. Once you do that you can seal the concrete with a garage floor coating if you like. Epoxy works fine for that.
Steve says
Hello,
I have a new concrete floor in my garage. After waiting for the concrete to cure properly what would be the best product to seal the concrete? I don’t care about looks, I almost prefer the concrete look. I will be using it to work on vehicles a lot so I want it to hold up to oil and other chemical and last as long as possible and be durable. I would like to find something I could apply myself also to save a little money.
Shea says
Hi Steve. Coatings are what stand up to oil and other automotive chemicals the best. You cannot stain the concrete with them. You can apply clear coatings, but the good ones are more expensive. Penetrating sealers do not change the look of the concrete and do leave a coating on the surface. They are the easiest to apply and the least expensive (generally). They are stain resistant, but not nearly like a coating is. You can still stain the concrete if spills, drips, and etc. are left too long on the surface. Which do you prefer?
Steve says
I would think that a coating would be better than a penetrating sealer then, depending on cost. Do you have a suggestion for both types in case I have to go one way or the other because of cost?
Shea says
Hi Steve. We reviewed a new product called TS210 that would be the most economical solution for a coating. We were impressed with how well in performed. The next level up that would provide a thicker coating and be even more durable at a good value would be AWF water based epoxy. You can with clear or colored. If you add in the glass bead, you will have a very durable, no nonsense coating.
For a penetrating sealer that would come close to meeting your requirements, we would suggest a product called GhostShield 8510. It requires a two step process of applying a densifier first and then the 8510.
bob gorlick says
hello: i have a 40 year old concrete garage floor with spalling damage,ice,water,salt. applying sakrete top coat to level spalled areas. cracking of pads also being sealed with top coat. want floor smooth,but not a skating rink surface.vehicles in garage,and wood working performed in same area. what would you recommend ?
Shea says
Hi Bob. Is your goal to just seal the surface while keeping the existing bare concrete look or do want something that will cover it all up and seal it at the same time, such as a coating?
Ben says
Hi Shea! Thanks for all your advice.
I have a new garage of 2,400 square feet. It’s a 4,000 PSI, fiber-reinforced and 6 inches thick. My garage will see vehicle traffic and I want to keep it looking good if auto fluids leak onto the floor. They did run a machine over the surface immediately following the pours.
Thank you! Ben
Shea says
Hello Ben. That’s a nice size garage you have there! Did you have a specific question?
Ben says
I’m looking for advice on how best to seal it and minimize stains from car fluids
Shea says
OK, gotcha Ben. As we state in the article, you have many options to choose from. What option is best for you depends on how you plan to use the space, budget, and ease of application. Topical coatings such as epoxy, polyurea, and etc. provide the best stain resistance, but are more expensive and labor intensive. Penetrating sealers are the most cost effective and easiest to apply, but they are not as stain proof as a coating. If you can give us a better idea of how you plan on using the space as well as which direction you are leaning in terms of a penetrating sealer or coating, we can make some good suggestions for you.
Ben says
It’s a man cave. I have a car lift and work on a street/strip GT500 and some friends cars. I’m trying to keep it looking fresh but not high on epoxy. I hoping you can recommend a sealer with easy application. It’s hard reading through the hype and I’m not sure if it’s a multi-step process or, if I simply use a sealer, how many coats. Also, does being just poured 30 days ago add any steps?
Shea says
That helps, Ben. The easiest method that would be close to the most cost efficient for your goals would be a penetrating sealer combination that includes a densifier and oil repelling sealer. The one that has been gaining a large reputation for the best performance is GhostShield 8510. It requires applying a densifier first, followed up with the 8510 7 days later. We have an article about it here. It won’t change the look of the concrete. It does provide very good protection against spills, leaks, and etc. from petroleum products. The key is to not let in linger for a large amount of time before cleanup. Sealers such as these are not concrete stain proof, but they do work very well. We have reports from many people who are using this combination with good results. One such person rebuilds tractors and is very happy with the performance.
The other option that is easy to apply and cost efficient as well is a fairly new product called TS210 by Concrete Sealers USA. It’s a polyurethane based clear topical coating that is thin and easy to apply. It is highly stain resistant and scratch resistant as well. You could leave a quart of oil on the floor and come back the next day to clean it up without issue. It’s also easy to reapply if you were to damage it somehow. We did informal testing and a review here. It will darken the color of the concrete slightly. It’s more of a matte finish and not a glossy finish. You can possibly stain the coating, but not the concrete. If you did get a stain, you could sand it out and apply more product. Initial reports over the last 6 months have been very good.
Most concrete needs to cure for a minimum of 30 days before adding a sealer or coating. However, you need to ad additional time for a 6″ slab. You will want to wait another 2 weeks to 30 days to ensure no issues.
Jon Bronaugh says
Very informative. Thank you. I don’t care about looks or even protecting my garage floor. I just want to fill the gaps between the slabs so dirt and debris will not collect there. I spend alot of time in my garage and sweep it often and those gaps make it diffcult. I do also Park in there so I need something that will hold up okay under that. What do suggest? I appreciate your help.
Shea says
Hello Jon. You can fill your expansion joints with SikaFlex. We have an article about the difference in contraction joints and expansion joints along with what materials to use to fill them. You can find it here.
Kim says
I have a 2 car garage that a tenant allowed their pets to use as a kennel. I have cleaned it with 6 different products including enzyme cleaners. Nothing is getting the odor out. Can you tell me if an epoxy coating will seal in the odor. If so, what DIY product would you advise using.
Shea says
Hello Kim. We have an article here that discusses this exact issue. An actual coating can help to reduce if not eliminate completely the smell if you follow the steps. Any DIY coating (not paint) can be used. Rust-Oeleum EpoxyShield or RockSolid is an example.
Kim says
Thank you Shea, I have done some reading and it seems that the EpoxyShield product has the highest consumer approval on sites I have read. Which do you prefer?
Shea says
We have an article here that discusses what to expect from these type of kits, Kim. If we had to choose, it would be the Rust-Oleum Professional EpoxyShield.
Kim says
Thank you again, If I may, I forgot to ask two more questions.
1.After multiple cleanings, I noticed that after it drys, there are a couple areas that are chalking, mostly around the expansion joints. Will that need something more for prep than acid etching?
2. I have cleaned the floor with vinegar, 2 enzyme cleaners, TSP, bleach, and simple green. It sounds sufficient to clean any grease to me but is there another cleaner I should use before the acid?
Shea says
No additional cleaning is necessary as long as you don’t have any oil based stains that would block penetration of liquids. Do you get strong white dust on your fingers in the areas that are chalking? If not, then you will be fine. If so, you may have to grind those areas first.