A garage floor sealer sounds simple enough to protect and seal the concrete in your garage or workshop. But what does a sealer do for the concrete and which type should you use? Which sealer is best for your requirements and budget? Options include densifiers, siliconates, oil-repelling sealers, salt-repelling sealers, epoxy, polyurea, acrylics, and more. As you can see, it can become a bit overwhelming.
Don’t fret, it’s not as confusing as it may seem at first. Our goal is to explain the differences in sealers for a garage floor or workshop so that it’s much easier to understand. We will discuss how they work, how they are applied, and the benefits of each. This should help you determine what sealer will be best for your needs.
We include economical sealers that protect the bare concrete for a nice clean look, sealers for working garages and workshop floors, as well as decorative sealers and coatings. That’s right, garage floor coatings are sealers as well.
Penetrating Sealers VS Topical Sealers – What’s the Difference?
There are two distinct categories of garage floor sealers that determine performance, looks, and application requirements. They are penetrating sealers and topical sealers.
Though both types seal the concrete, they look and perform much differently from one another. With so many garage flooring options available, it’s important to get a basic understanding of each.
Penetrating Sealers
Penetrating sealers work by penetrating into the concrete upon application. They react with the minerals in the concrete to form a hard, gel-like molecular barrier in the subsurface. Otherwise known as non-film-forming sealers, they are breathable and do not form a coating on the concrete surface.
As a result, penetrating sealers do not change the look of bare concrete. And because they are non-film forming, they cannot be scratched if you drag a sharp object across the concrete surface. In addition, they will retain the same wet slip resistance of the current concrete surface.
Furthermore, penetrating sealers typically are the most economical sealing solution for a garage floor or workshop and one of the easiest of all garage flooring options to apply.
An important fact about penetrating sealers is that they are not waterproof as some people assume. Nor are they stainproof. This is due to the non-film-forming properties of the sealer.
Though they do a good job of repelling water and resisting automotive fluids, all liquids will eventually penetrate the concrete surface if allowed to sit long enough. How long they sit before penetration is determined by the type of sealer and the porosity of the concrete.
Lastly, liquids such as oil, automotive fluids, and other contaminants can stain if allowed to sit. How much they stain and how easily an oil stain cleans up are determined by the type of penetrating sealer applied and how long the oil or other contaminant was allowed to sit.
When it comes to stain resistance, the goal of a penetrating sealer is to provide enough time for spills and leaks to be cleaned up first before they have a chance to stain. This includes some of the newer oil-repelling sealers the industry has introduced to provide better stain resistance.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers / Coatings
Topical sealers adhere to the concrete surface with only slight penetration. Also known as film-forming sealers, they are more widely known as floor coatings or garage floor coatings. They form a protective layer that is typically non-breathable and can be impermeable depending on the coating used.
Many are 2-part resinous coatings that require mixing before application, though there are exceptions. They chemically cure and create a hard coating that is extremely durable. The thickness, abrasive properties, and chemical resistance of these coating sealers can vary depending on the type and quality of the coating that is used.
Paint and 1-part epoxy paint are not sealers or coatings. Don’t make this mistake! We discuss why here.
Most coatings are also considered decorative. Clear coatings will enhance the look of the garage floor surface. They tend to darken bare concrete, add character, and provide a matte to a glossy finish.
In addition, clear coating sealers are used to protect and highlight the colors of stained or dyed concrete. They make the colors pop with vibrancy and add shine.
Colored coatings completely change the look of the garage floor. Epoxy and polyurea garage floor coatings are great examples. You can opt for a solid color or add multi-colored acrylic flakes with a clear coat to create your own unique color palette.
Unlike penetrating sealers, topical sealers and coatings prevent the bare concrete from being stained by oils, automotive fluids, and chemicals. This is because the coating acts as a sacrificial barrier.
Furthermore, one large advantage of topical sealers over penetrating sealers is that the surface is very easy to keep clean.
Higher-performing coatings can also be extremely stain resistant. Oil, chemicals, salty road brines, and other fluids can sit for much longer periods. All that is required in most cases is wiping up the mess with a rag. A shot of Windex can remove any leftover film residue.
Lastly, many topical sealers and coatings will prevent the penetration of water and liquids into the concrete. This doesn’t necessarily make the entire garage floor waterproof. Exposed cracks and concrete joints can still allow water to seep into the concrete.
Now that we better understand the difference between penetrating garage floor sealers and topical garage floor sealers, let us discuss the various types available and what we can recommend.
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Recommended Penetrating Sealers for Garage Floors
There is a wide range of penetrating sealers for concrete to choose from. Therefore, it can easily become overwhelming if you don’t know what to look for.
There are silane concrete sealers, silicone sealers, siloxane sealers, siliconate sealers, densifiers, oleophobic concrete sealers, and more. Many are hybrids of each. Some are water-based, while others or solvent-based. Many do not work very well for a garage floor.
As a result, we will only discuss those penetrating sealers that we recommend and know to work best for a garage or workshop floor. In addition, we will discuss concrete prep that may be required and sealer application.
Siliconate Sealers
Siliconate sealers are a great choice for homeowners who just want good general protection of their bare concrete at a minimal cost with ease of application. Often considered the “all-purpose” sealer for garage floors and workshops, they are a great value as well.
Compared to other penetrating sealers, their medium-sized molecular structure does not allow the sealant to penetrate too deep. This provides for better coverage rates and more importantly, better protection of the concrete surface.
As a result, they provide good water repellency including repellency against moisture, road salts, and dirt. Siliconate sealers also resist efflorescence and provide good protection against freeze-thaw, which is the leading cause of spalling of concrete.
Learn more: Why Penetrating Siliconate Sealers May Be All You Need
One thing to keep in mind is that siliconate sealers do not repel oil. Though they will buy you some time for cleanup by slowing down penetration into the concrete, a stain can occur if oil is allowed to sit for long. However, the resulting stain will not be nearly as bad as an oil stain on untreated concrete.
As with the majority of penetrating sealers, the application is very easy. For most concrete surfaces, the only preparation required is to clean and degrease. Once the concrete has thoroughly dried, one coat of the sealer is applied using a low-pressure pump-up garden sprayer with a conical spray nozzle.
Densifiers and Densifier Sealers
Densifiers are a type of silicate sealer. They had been used primarily in the process of polishing concrete and for adding strength to newly poured concrete floors. However, with the introduction of easier-to-apply lithium silicate densifiers, they have become more popular for garage, workshop, and warehouse floors.
Densifiers work by reacting with minerals in the concrete to form a very hard substance called calcium silicate hydrate or CSH. The CSH fills many of the empty voids and pores of the concrete at and near the surface. This increases the density, strength, and hardness of the concrete in these areas.
Check the Current Price on our Top Recommended Densifier
In addition, the filling of these voids with CSH reduces concrete dusting. Furthermore, it slows down moisture intrusion from below the slab to help prevent efflorescence and moisture vapor. However, silicate densifiers do not repel water or other liquids.
As a result of their increasing popularity, manufacturers began adding siliconate to densifiers to provide water and liquid-repelling characteristics. This new type of densifier with siliconate sealer added provides the characteristics of a densifier plus, the same protections as a siliconate sealer as well.
Learn more: Why Densifiers are the New Garage Floor Sealer
As with siliconate sealers, densifiers do not repel oil. However, testing has shown that densifiers with siliconate sealer added do a better job at resisting oil stains than a stand-alone siliconate sealer only.
The application is similar to that of a siliconate sealer. However, more importance is emphasized on not letting the densifier puddle. If it does, it’s important to use a paint roller to roll out the excess or use a broom to work it into the concrete.
If allowed to dry with excess sealer on the surface, a white powder will form and require heavy scrubbing to remove.
Oil Repelling Penetrating Sealers
Oil-repelling penetrating sealers are fairly new to the market. They’ve come about due to the constant demand for a better-performing sealer against staining from oil and other automotive fluids for garage floors and workshops.
A unique ingredient of these sealers is the use of fluorocarbons to create an oleophobic barrier. Oleophobic refers to the physical property of a molecule to seemingly repel oil.
Oil will lay flat or even run on a concrete surface treated with typical penetrating sealers. This characteristic does not resist the penetration of oil nearly as well as water which typically beads from being repelled.
However, oil tends to bead somewhat on a concrete surface treated with an oleophobic sealer. This repelling action allows the oil to sit for a longer period with less chance of penetration into the concrete.
This repelling action allows for an easier cleanup of oils and other automotive fluids and less chance of an oil stain. However, this does not mean the concrete can’t be stained. As with all penetrating sealers, oil and other offending contaminants will stain eventually if allowed to sit long enough.
What oil-repelling penetrating concrete sealers do is allow more time for the oil to sit before cleanup. In addition, it can also make the removal of any offending stains easier.
The raw materials used for these sealers are more expensive. As a result, they cost more than typical penetrating sealers. In addition, one popular oil-repelling sealer that is known to work well also requires the application of a densifier first.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Single Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Oil-repelling sealers in most cases are the better choice to use on garage floors and workshops. However, the importance of these characteristics versus cost is something to consider if you are on a budget.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Dual Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Application of these sealers is a bit more involved but still fairly easy. The concrete must be degreased, clean, and dry. Depending on the sealer used, the application can require a wet flood coat using a pump-up sprayer or application via a lambswool pad or microfiber pad.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers and Coatings
The number of options for garage floor coatings and topical sealers is large. There are acrylic coatings and sealers, epoxy, polyurethane, polyurea, and polyaspartics. In addition, there are single-part moisture-cured coatings and 2-part coatings. And most come in a choice of clear or colored.
Furthermore, the application process, performance characteristics, and durability vary greatly. This includes what chemicals, stains, and abuse they can withstand.
As a result, this is an area where research before a purchase is paramount. Marketing campaigns by large corporations such as Rust-Oleum, Behr, QuikRete, H&C, and others have only served to confuse the consumer. This has led to many unhappy or misinformed purchases.
In addition, do not rely on information from home improvement centers. They are not knowledgeable about concrete coatings and they do not carry quality products in their inventory.
The following topical sealer options below are listed from low to high in approximate cost.
Acrylic concrete sealers
Acrylic concrete sealers form a thin protective layer on bare concrete. Most are clear, but some can be tinted for color. Expect 1 – 1.5 mils dry film thickness per coat on average.
They will enhance the look of the garage floor and make the concrete look slightly darker. The floor will attain a somewhat wet and glossy look or you can opt for a less flashy matte finish. Glossy finishes tend to be more durable.
In terms of performance, acrylic sealers will protect the garage floor from water and chloride intrusion. In addition, they provide light to moderate protection against oil, vehicle fluids, hot tire pick-up, and road salts.
Most acrylic sealers are also U.V. stable. This means that they will not turn a yellow tint if exposed to direct sunlight.
Water-based acrylic sealers are the least durable of all concrete coating options and the easiest to scratch. Solvent-based acrylics increase durability, scratch resistance, and chemical resistance from automotive fluids.
For a more durable alternative, we recommend the performance of MMA acrylic sealers. These have longer endurance properties than standard acrylic sealers and can withstand harsher chemicals.
Acrylic sealers perform best with light to moderate traffic. Reapplication may be required once every 18 to 36 months depending on the sealer used.
One DIY advantage of acrylic sealers is that they are fairly easy to apply. The concrete needs to be degreased, cleaned, and dry. Etching of the concrete is typically not required unless the surface is extremely smooth.
You can use either a low-pressure pump-up sprayer or apply it with a paintbrush and rollers out of a tray. The key to a successful application is to apply the coating thin or problems will develop. Typically, two coats are applied for the best protection.
Modified Acrylic Polyurethane Sealers
If you like the look of a clear sealer on bare concrete, then one of the best-performing values is a modified acrylic polyurethane.
This is a somewhat new sealer for garage floors that we feel is going to explode in popularity once the word gets out. It combines high performance and ease of application at a budget price.
Technically, they are a thin, 2-part water-based, high-performance, acrylic-modified, aliphatic polyurethane coating and sealer. Aliphatic means that they are U.V. stable and will not amber. In addition, they are Eco-friendly, and no etching of the concrete is required.
Acrylic-modified polyurethane sealers provide better abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, and stain resistance than most epoxy. They are a true workhorse sealer for garage floors and workshops.
A minimum of two thin coats is required. This will result in a dry film thickness of just under 2 mils. Three coats are recommended for commercial applications. They are one of the few topical sealers that will adhere well to machine-troweled concrete.
Learn More: Our Top Recommended Acrylic Modified Polyurethane
These are best used on smooth concrete with few repairs. Due to their thin nature, they are not recommended on rough garage floor finishes or concrete with numerous repairs. They are not thick enough to provide self-leveling properties such as epoxy or polyurea.
Furthermore, they will only adhere to bare, unsealed concrete and are not compatible as a clear sealer over epoxy or other coatings.
Application requires that the concrete be clean and dry. No etching of the concrete is required. The sealer is best applied using a low-pressure pump-up sprayer with a conical spray nozzle in conjunction with a microfiber application pad or 1/4″ low nap roller.
Epoxy Concrete Sealers
Undisputedly, the most popular sealer is garage floor epoxy. Epoxy is a 2-part thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating. It chemically cures to create polymer structures that are closely cross-linked. This is what gives epoxy its superior strength and durability.
Epoxy is available as a clear coat to bare concrete but is more commonly applied in solid colors. Finishes range from satin for low-budget formulas to a high gloss for commercial-quality epoxy.
The most durable applications are epoxy systems that include a minimum of a color coat, optional decorative color flakes, and a clear coat. Professionally installed garage floor coatings consist of such systems.
Learn more: How to Choose the Best Garage Floor Epoxy System
In addition, epoxy coating sealers are much thicker than acrylics. They can be applied thicker than any other coating available. Depending on the solids content, one coat of epoxy can be applied at 2.5 – 12 mils dry film thickness and higher.
Epoxy sealers can withstand heavy traffic and are abrasion resistant. Furthermore, most are non-breathable and will prevent water and chemical intrusion at the surface. They are resistant to most chemicals, oil, vehicle fluids, road salts, and hot tire pickup.
One disadvantage is that epoxy is not U.V. resistant. If exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight, it can turn a yellow tint (amber) over a period of time.
Single-coat DIY garage floor epoxy kits purchased from local home improvement centers are the least durable epoxy coatings. We explain more in detail here.
Epoxy sealer application is more involved and time-consuming compared to penetrating sealers. However, DIY application is very common. Application is done using paintbrushes and paint rollers.
Proper concrete preparation is essential or the coating will not adhere properly. Etching the concrete is required at the minimum. Grinding the concrete may be preferred for some applications, but it is not mandatory.
In addition, epoxy application is time sensitive. Once the two parts are mixed, you typically have 30 – 40 minutes to get the epoxy applied before it hardens up. Low-quality epoxy allows for more application time. This time limit is dependent on the solids content. The higher the solids content (thicker, higher-performing coatings), the less time you have to apply it.
Moisture Cured Direct to Concrete Polyurethane Sealers
Polyurethane is a high-performance coating with increased benefits over epoxy. Depending on the quality, it is typically more abrasion and scratch resistant than epoxy. It wears longer and is more chemical and stain resistant. And unlike epoxy, most polyurethanes are U.V. stable and will not amber.
Traditional polyurethane coatings are available in 2-part formulas or single-part moisture-cured formulas. Like acrylics, they are applied thinly with an average dry film thickness of 2-2.5 mils.
However, one issue with traditional polyurethane concrete coating sealers is that they do not bond well directly to concrete. Instead, they are used as a U.V. stable colored coating over epoxy or more commonly, as a clear coat over epoxy.
Fortunately, this bonding issue has recently changed with the introduction of newer moisture-cured polyurethanes designed specifically to bond directly to concrete. Moisture-cured coatings are single-part and do not require mixing in a second part to act as a catalyst to start the chemical curing process.
Instead, it uses moisture in the air as the catalyst. The coating is not activated until it is applied to the concrete and exposed to the moisture in the air. As a result, you have a much longer working time to apply the coating as compared to epoxy. This is a nice benefit for DIY installations.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Moisture-Cured Polyurethane
Because these coatings are thin, they typically require a minimum of two color coats. One clear coat is sufficient if applied to bare concrete. However, two are recommended for more durability if it’s a busy working garage or workshop.
This type of coating sealer will not do a good job of hiding irregularities in the concrete due to its thin nature. High solids epoxy is better for that.
Application of direct to concrete moisture-cured polyurethane sealers is varied. The concrete must be clean, degreased, and completely dry throughout.
In addition, most require that the surface be acid etched. However, polyurethanes such as DuraGrade Concrete by Rust Bullet do not require etching in many cases. This can be a huge benefit to DIY installers that do not want to deal with additional concrete prep. Like most coatings, it is applied with paint rollers and brushes.
Polyurea and Polyaspartic floor sealers
Last on the list are the newer polyurea and polyaspartic floor coating sealers. These are a sub-group of polyurethane and have a similar finish to epoxy and polyurethane coated floors.
They are U.V. stable and can provide better protection than polyurethane. They also provide the best resistance against brown tire prints in the coating.
Unlike epoxy and polyurethane, many of these coatings can be applied in extreme temperatures from below freezing to over 100 degrees, depending on the formula.
What makes these coatings popular is their extremely fast return-to-service times. They can be installed on your garage floor in one day and driven on the next. Most polyurea and polyaspartic coatings need to be applied by a professional due to their very short working time. Twenty minutes or less is typical.
There are newer polyurea coating sealers that have been introduced that are much more DIY-friendly. They can provide up to two hours to get the coating applied depending on the polyurea or polyaspartic formula.
Learn more: Why the best DIY Garage Flooring Kits are Single-Part Polyurea
These long application times reduce the common anxiety of getting the coating applied in enough time. As a result, they can be an excellent choice for a DIY application.
We highly recommend the newer single-part polyurea coatings. These are commercial-quality, moisture-cured coatings that will last 10-15 years or more on a garage floor.
Final thoughts
We have a few considerations for you to keep in mind when deciding which garage floor sealer is best for you.
If you have issues with moisture coming up through the concrete, a penetrating garage floor sealer is generally the better choice. Because they are breathable, they will not be affected by moisture vapor. As we discussed, they may also serve to block or reduce moisture coming up from underneath the concrete slab.
Acrylic sealers are breathable and will tolerate low levels of moisture. Resinous topical sealers and coatings such as epoxy, polyurethanes, and polyurea will not allow for moisture transfer. They can peel and even pull small chunks of concrete up with it if moisture gets trapped under the coating. Moisture testing should be conducted if you suspect it may be an issue before applying a topical sealer.
If you use your garage or workshop for metal fabrication and welding, a penetrating sealer may be the better option. Coatings will get damaged if sharp metal objects are dragged across the surface. They will also incur burn marks from welding slag or heavy metal grinding.
Lastly, take the time to evaluate your requirements. Be realistic in terms of what you want a concrete sealer to do for your garage floor or workshop. No penetrating or film-forming topical sealer and coating are perfect. Compromises may need to be made, particularly if budget is a concern.
George says
I’ve been trying to figure out the best course of action for the basement of the 85yr old home I recently purchased. The basement is concrete block, recently parged along the exterior walls. I notice after heavier rains that the seams/cracks along the lower portions of the walls and floor become damp. A dehumidifier has helped keep the basement dry, but is almost always running (has a built-in humidistat).
I’d like to paint the walls and floor. One half of the basement has some remaining paint from years ago, which I understand will need to be stripped off/ground… but before that I gather it would be best to seal the concrete to prevent moisture from coming through and lifting any coatings off, correct?
If so, what kind of sealer and paint/coating would work well for this basement? It will never be a finished area but some areas are high traffic (I’d prefer to treat the entire basement as high traffic). I do have windows and bilco doors for ventilation. My environment ranges in temperatures from roughly -20F to 105F. I will greatly appreciate any advice that can be given!
Shea says
Hello George. Negative side sealing of basements walls and floors can be difficult depending on the amount of moisture present. Moisture intrusion can definitely be reduced and if there isn’t too much, sometimes it can be stopped permanently. If you want to paint the walls, then a densifier may be your best choice. We recommend that you contact Concrete Sealers USA or Foundation Armor and tell them of your plan. They carry densifiers and other moisture blockers that may best work for you.
Your typical resinous floor coating do not breath and are not a good choice for basements with moisture issues. DryLok actually makes a variety of quality wall and floor paints that actually breathe and let moisture vapors pass through the paint. We suggest you contact them as well. The idea is to determine what combination of sealer and paint will be compatible in order to meet your needs and fix your moisture issue.
chris says
Hi, I painted my garage floor with grey garage floor paint a few years ago, some areas still have the paint covering, and some of the paint has come off, revealing the concrete. This is mainly where the car has been across the surface. What product do you suggest to use to repaint the floor with so this doesn’t happen again. Also be good to have a shiny finish
Shea says
Hello Chris. If you want a coating that will last and not have the issues of hot tire lift, then we suggest a high solids commercial quality product. It will require that you remove all the existing paint and properly prepare profile your concrete. Grinding is the best method to remove the paint and profile the concrete at the same time. There are quite a few good products to choose from. Stay away from the simple and inexpensive DIY kits that you can purchase from your home improvement centers. Most of our sponsors have excellent product and we have done a few articles on some product which you can read here.
Peter chukwudike says
how can I get supplies for original concrete sealer chemical.
Shea says
Can you be more specific Peter? What do you mean when you say original?
Juan says
We poured our new garages over a year ago. They have never had any vehicles driven on them yet so they are clean and free of any oil.
I want to seal them and think I need a densifier and a topical coating (non skid).
Any recommendations? I have been looking at Legacy’s HD-40.
Appreciate your feedback and thanks for the VERY informative site.
Shea says
Hello Juan. The combination of a densifier and HD40 by Legacy Industrial makes for a well protected floor. I’m not sure if you saw our article on a reader’s project or not, but you can buff out the HD40 to make it look like this. HD40 is not going to allow you to apply a non-slip additive, however, since what is left on the surface is very thin. It’s not slippery in general, but if you require a better non slip surface then you would need to go with a regular coating such as an epoxy system. It’s worth giving Scotty a call at Legacy Industrial to discuss your options.
Juan says
Shea thanks for the prompt feedback. That garage looks very nice!
And might be the way to go.
Also looking at Concrete Sealers USA products.
Shea says
If you have any questions about Concrete Sealers USA, just give them a call and ask for Mike. He’s a real honest guy about giving you straight up answers and very knowledgeable.
Don Deming says
I live in Florida and have a lot of sun hitting my garage floor love to paint and seal it with a gloss what would you recommend??
Thxs fl
Shea says
Hello Don. You can’t seal paint, however, you can seal a true coating. I suggest reading this article to learn the difference between paint and coatings. Epoxy coatings are not resistant to U.V. light from the sun and will turn yellow, so a polyurea coating is best to use since it will not turn yellow in the sun. We suggest looking a Nohr-S polyurea by Legacy Industrial. They are located in Florida and this product is extremely popular for them.
Alan Potts says
What would you recommend to seal a decorative stamped brick look patio?
I used Decraseal in the past but it only leaves the wet look I want for a year before It needs to be redone….Help!
Shea says
Hello Allan. I sounds like you applied a high gloss acrylic sealer. Are you looking for something that is more of a satin look?
Jon Pine says
Can I do a penetrating sealer than a topical for the shine? I own a auto shop that has 60 plus year old concrete that is in horrible condition. I plan to grind for prep before I add any sealer. Shop is 2400 square feet. I don’t want epoxy for many reasons, ie: It’s an active auto shop, I get moisture from the ground up in winter months and cost. I’ve read a lot on your site (great info). Don’t know if this matters but I’m in northern California.
Shea says
Hello Jon. A topical sealer is a film forming sealer such as acrylic or epoxy. In most cases they cannot be applied to concrete that has been treated with a penetrating sealer since the sealer effectively blocks penetration of the film forming sealer in order to from a mechanical bond. Also, acrylics are not durable enough for a shop floor and epoxy will not work well with moisture issues unless you use a moisture blocking epoxy primer first.
Since you are grinding, our suggestion would be to use a combination of a densifier and a stain guard product. Both are a penetrating type of sealer and not expensive compared to epoxy. The densifier will help to harden the surface and slow down the moisture problem you have with the concrete. The stain guard is applied a few days afterward and then burnished with a high speed floor buffer. Stain guards are commonly used on on polished floors. This article here shows an example of a stain guard that was used on a machine troweled garage floor. If you go over the surface after the first grind with a finer stone, you may be able to produce similar results as the article since you would be smoothing the concrete surface with a finer grind. Give Scotty from Legacy Industrial a call and he can fill you in on the details.
Mark Stevenson says
I’m looking to seal a garage floor to stop all moisture from seeping through. I have a finished basement underneath this garage.
Prior owners caulked and sprayed a floor sealer years ago. Now water seeps through the joints where the caulking worn out when snow melts from the vehicle.
I’m needing a good joint caulk and a garage floor sealer. Direct sunlight and color options aren’t problems or needed.
What’s your advice?
Shea says
Hello Mark. What you need to do is remove the caulk/sealant from the joints first. It is important to prep the concrete edges as well when you do this in order for the new sealant to form a good mechanical bond. A 4″ crack chasing wheel on a smaller 4″ angle grinder does a good job of this. It will remove the sealant and put a fresh grind on the edges. SikaFlex makes very good sealants. Providing your joints are not more than 1″ wide, we recommend SikaFlex Pro Crack Flex Sealant. Here is their data sheet. The difference between this and their standard joint sealant is that it is water immersible after it cures.
In terms of sealers, without knowing exactly what was used on the concrete in the past, it’s hard to recommend what to use now. Assuming it was a penetrating sealer, your best bet may be a solvent based silane sealer since it would get the best penetration if an old sealer is present. The alternative would be to grind the surface first to effectively remove the old sealer and then apply a new one. We recommend giving Concrete Sealers USA a call. Give them the history of your concrete and what you are trying to accomplish. Their customer service reps are very knowledgeable and can provide you with a good recommendation.
James says
We recently had a new garage slab poured. Unfortunately, the contractor did not order enough cement in the mixer truck, so one portion had to be done with bags of cement. The result was a totally different color floor in that quadrant. We want to keep the grey look of concrete and we want to seal the floor. My question is, what would be a good solution to both seal and get a uniform “concrete” looking finish? The floor will occasionally see direct sun. And will be used more as my welding and carpentry shop as opposed to auto storage.
Shea says
Hello James. Unfortunately you can’t really do anything about changing the natural gray color of the concrete in order to keep the original look. The only way to make the floor uniform in color would be to apply a colored coating. A polyurea coating is best since it will not yellow if you get direct sunlight. You could always apply a gray color without any color flakes. SPGX by ArmorPoxy is an example of a polyurea floor coating. Nohr-S by Legacy Industrial is another. Another coating that requires the least amount of prep work and maintains a more natural look is Rust Bullet. It will not yellow either. If you don’t want to deal with a coating, then the combination of a densifier and penetrating sealer like this is a good option for a shop floor. Just keep in mind that it will not change the appearance of the concrete.
aldrin says
hello,
someone could recommend, my garage has an existing floor tiles, and since i really don’t want to dismantle nor replace it, by reading the article here, epoxy sealer could be use, the question is, is this also SKID RESISTANT?
what i really need is to make my garage a NON SKID surface.
thanks,
aldrin
Shea says
Epoxy can only be made non-skid if you use an aggressive anti-slip additive Aldrin. I’m not sure what kind of tile you are referring to, but epoxy generally cannot be applied over tile.
Patrick says
Hi I own a condo that has concrete floors with what looks to be an epoxy coating from a DIY store kit. It is still in decent shape, no peeling or anything like that, but doesn’t look great and also has a matte finish that doesn’t clean very well for an indoor floor surface. It is a dull gray and I would like to have a glossy black finish, possibly with some of the metallic effect/product.
Can I apply a new epoxy coating and clear coat directly on top of the old epoxy? If not what products would be suitable to apply over the existing epoxy without having to grind down to the bare concrete? This is in a living space and my kitchen in my residence, so making that much mess is out of the question. Light sanding would be possible if necessary. Thank you and great site!
Shea says
Yes you can Patrick. It will require roughing up the surface with 100-120 grit sandpaper in order to smooth out existing surface and provide a mechanical bond for the new coating. Wipe it down with denatured alcohol applied liberally to a lint free towel or large cloth before application. This will remove any remaining dust or dirt so that it will not get caught up in the new coating.
Emily says
Hi there, we just finished two coats of Rust Oleum Epoxyshield on our very not flat basement floor. My daughter asked if we put an ice rink in our basement it’s so shiny. Wouldn’t be too bad if our basement was level and flat, so it literally looks like we’ve spilled water all over the floor! Is there anything we can do to de-shine it a bit? Sand it down an put a matte/flat paint over it? Thanks in advance!
Shea says
Hi Emily. Being too shiny is an unusual complaint. Most want to know how to try and bring the shine back… lol. The last thing you want to do is apply paint over epoxy. The paint will start to peel or wear after a while and you will have a mess on your hands. We suggest giving the coating some time to develop microscopic scratches from traffic. The Rust-Oleum products tend to lose their shine after some time when they are put to use. It’s a common complaint. You could try taking some 220 grit sandpaper to the finish to see how that would look. The problem with deglossing this way is that it makes it more difficult to clean the floor since dirt and grit collect in the finely roughed surface.
Aaron says
Hello am I able to put a urethane gloss coating such as H&S protect from Sherman Williams over Rustoleum epoxyshield professional solvent based epoxy? My garage gets lots of sun. I just diamond grind it down and have two cases of the professional epoxy ready.
Shea says
Hello Aaron. We are assuming that you mean ArmorSeal HS Polyurethane. If so, then yes, you can apply that to the Rust-Oleum Professional epoxy.
Aaron says
I’m sorry it’s actually h&c clear protect is the brand from Sherman Williams. Last home I used the clear epoxy sealer it yellowed from sun in my garage. I can’t find any info if this polyurethane will be fine on the Rustoleum professional. Any suggestions? Thank you 😊
Shea says
OK. After looking at their technical data sheets it can be used with an epoxy coating. We would recommend applying it within 24 hours of applying the Rust-Oleum. Keep in mind it’s not one of the higher performing polyurethanes that are available. It’s a very low solids coating (34%) that goes on very thin. We calculate an approximate 1.5 mils dry film thickness. This is probably why they recommend two coats for best looks and performance. The abrasion rating is fairly low as well. If you are just parking your cars in the garage it may be fine. However, it will not stand up very well to any type of work you may do in the garage.
Aaron says
Thank you do you have any urethane coatings you would recommend that is better and not super spendy ? 😊 Also when applying 2 coats how long in between coats? Can I walk on it with out spike shoes?
Shea says
You can try pricing the ArmorSeal HS at your local Sherwin-Williams Aaron. One of the higher performing polyurethanes is a 1-part moisture cure HD-356. Legacy Industrial carries it here. One advantage is that it’s available in quart sizes as well if one gallon doesn’t quite cover it. The Epoxy Super Store is another that carries a variety of different quality polyurethanes that would be better than the H&C product.
Kathy says
I have a new concrete floor with radiant heat for my upholstery work shop. can you recommend a product that will work best on a heated floor?
Shea says
Hi Kathy. They all will work…. from garage floor coatings and sealers to interlocking tile and garage floor mats. All of your garage flooring options will not have any issues with radiant heat.
Keith Brandon says
I have a concrete garage floor from 1982. At the moment I have no cracks but it is peaking up. What do you recommend?
Shea says
What do you mean exactly when you say peaking Keith? Is something pushing it up from underneath?
Jerry says
Hi
Got a problem here. I researched sealers (or so I thought) and applied Thomsons garage floor sealant , then applied a garage floor paint. Obviously now this was a sealant that cannot be painted on.
I can (and must) take the paint off but taking the rather horrible brown and white hard sealant up would be very costly and time consuming.
What answer can you recommend please? Perhaps another sealant on top that can be painted on, or a tinted sealant?
Thanks
Shea says
Hello Jerry. Thompson does not make a “garage floor sealant”. What was the exact name of the Thompson’s product that you used?
Jerry Bolton says
Hi
They’ve stopped making it now, but still do a one coat floor sealer for garages, which I guess is the same type of stuff. N.b. we’re talking Thomson UK here, btw, in case brand names are confused
Fran Fox says
Have a brand new cement floor in my garage. The company sprayed a clear sealant. They also cut control joint that have some debris. Is it ok to use an epoxy floor finish on the new floor. Is there any special instructions needed prior to application.
Thank you
Shea says
Hi Fran. You will need to remove the clear sealant first before you can apply an epoxy or similar coating. Grinding is the best method for this as it will properly prep the surface of the concrete for the epoxy at the same time. I’m not sure what you are asking about the control joints.
salvador perez says
Hi. which sealer do you think is the best for a basement flor HD 6525 or HD6600 I want to have a wet shiny look and can you put any color in any of these products I think the HTC 6525 you can add color but i am not sure. Tanks.
Shea says
The HD6525 is the one you will want to use if you want to add color, Salvador. You can’t add color to the HD6600. Keep in mind that color added to acrylic coatings are translucent and not solid.
salvador perez says
Ok tankyou and can buff the HD6525 sealer
Shea says
No, you can’t buff an acrylic sealer, Salvador.
Annie says
We just bought a home and the garage seems to be where their dogs were kept most of the time. The smell is AWFUL. We would ideally like the be able to just get rid of the smell of the garage concrete floor, we aren’t concerned about how it looks just the smell. We have been told epoxy is the only way to go, but I was wondering if there might be any less expensive options for sealing the concrete and getting rid of the smell? Thanks!
Shea says
Hi Annie. I think you need to read our article about removing pet urine odor from concrete. If you have any more questions, just ask.
Cynthia Aboud says
Hi I just had my garage floor replaced and want to know the best sealing type to protect against road salt. I live in the north and park inside during the winter. It is not practical to wash the floor every time I use it however. Thank you.
Shea says
Hello Cynthia. A siliconate penetrating sealer provides excellent protection against road salt and is easy to apply. Just verify that your concrete contractor did not treat the concrete with a “cure and seal” product first. Also, you don’t need to clean the floor every time you park with road salt, but it’s still not a good idea to let it build up all winter on your garage floor without the occasional cleaning. Another item you may want to consider in addition to sealing your concrete is a containment mat. These can really make life easier in snowy climates.
Bob Cruickshank says
Hello,
I have some questions for you. My garage floor is currently porcelain tile. I was hoping to cover it with a two part epoxy floor treatment. Will the epoxy stock to the tile properly?
Is the epoxy thick enough to hide the grout lines from the tile?
Can I apply the epoxy in cold temperatures?
Last question. Can I apply the epoxy on the wall as a base board or does it only work on a floor?
Thanks so much for taking the time to help.
Bob
Shea says
No, you can’t apply epoxy or any other resinous coating over porcelain, Bob. The surface is extremely hard and very difficult to rough up properly. It would take more work than just ripping out the tiles. Also, the cost and amount of coats to create a smooth and even surface would be expensive. Remember that coating thickness is measured in mils, not inches.
Don says
I am preparing a garage floor for tile. I wanted to use a siliconate penetrating sealer but I have several small areas of spalling. I was planning to use the ardex cd product to fix these areas. My question is how to proceed. Should I apply the sealer before or after the ardex. Will the ardex adhere to the sealed surface and/or will the the sealer penetrate the ardex. Either way I would also want the ardex areas sealed in some manner. What do you think?
Shea says
Hello Don. You do not want to use a sealer on the concrete before making repairs. It can affect how well the repairs will bond. If you want to seal the concrete before application of the tile, we recommend using a product such as RedGard. This type of product is made specifically for tiling that requires sealing of the concrete before application.
Don says
Shea:
Thank you for our quick response. I don’t know if this will change your recommendation or not but I’m actually going to install plastic race deck type interlocking tiles so whatever I do underneath will simply be covered up. Do you think that RedGuard would still be a good product to use with the ardex cd spalling repair product. I want the underlying floor to be as sound as possible with a weatherproof surface long term.
Shea says
Ahh…. yes it does, Don. In that case a siliconate penetrating sealer would be a good choice to apply after the repairs have been made. Since most penetrating sealers react with the concrete they won’t be as effective over repairs. However, polymer-modified cement is resistant to freeze thaw damage and road salt penetration.
Beven Morris says
I’m moving into a new home in the spring and want to know how soon after concrete floor is poured can I have is coated?
Shea says
You need to wait a minimum of 30 days after the concrete has been poured before you can apply a coating, Beven.