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If you ask a person who has used a Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield or Quikrete garage floor epoxy paint kit to give you a review, you will get a different answer almost every time. Many people do not have kind words for these kits. They complain of the epoxy paint peeling up fairly quickly or of the coating itself wearing out in places. There are times however when Rust-Oleum or Quikrete don’t always deserve the bad reviews that they receive.
These kits of course are the ones you can purchase from your local home improvement center or online for $65 to $75. This one here is a good example from Amazon. They are water based, you generally have a choice of tan or gray colors, and they even have decorative paint chips to toss onto the surface. All of these kits will include some form of a citrus acid etch and cleaning solution for the concrete.
So why are so many people unhappy and bringing the reputation of these epoxy paints into question? The answer lies partly in people’s expectations, their lack of knowledge on how epoxy paint works, and the marketing of the paint kits themselves.
So why the problems with Rust-Oleum and Quikrete?
When the decision has been made to upgrade the protection and looks of the garage floor, some don’t want to break the bank or are on a budget which is understandable. When they visit their local home improvement store to see what paint is available, they may be advised on the added benefits of epoxy instead.
They are then pointed to the epoxy paint kits instead of the standard latex acrylic garage floor paint. Once they see the nice shiny picture on the box promising a beautiful epoxied floor that goes on with ease, they spend a little more money expecting the long lasting and durable coating that is advertised on the box.
The other scenario is the online shopper looking for a deal on epoxy floor coating products. They find great deals online for these epoxy garage floor paint kits with all the promises of a beautiful epoxy floor for less than half the price of other epoxy systems. They then make the purchase not really knowing what they are getting.
So, what are they getting? Both the Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield and Quikrete epoxy paint is an actual 2-part water based epoxy coating — one part is a tinted epoxide resin and the second part is a polyamine hardener. Both have approximately a 50% solids content by volume with the remaining being water. The water acts as a carrier agent for the epoxy and allows it to be applied very easily, just like paint and that is why they are marketed as such.
What happens, however, is this water base evaporates as the epoxy cures and what you are left with is just over 50% of what originally went on the concrete. Actual dry film thickness is approximately 3 mils for the Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield product and 2.4 mils for Quikrete.
————- Epoxy Review Update ————-
Due to the amount of questions we have received, we want to update this article to include the Valspar garage flooring kit as well. It falls into the same category as EpoxyShield and Quikrete. The Valspar product is a water based 2-part epoxy paint kit that cures to a dry film thickness of 1.5 mils.
Lowes generally carries this line, but you can find it here from Amazon and usually at a much better price.
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A better quality kit that is more expensive but doesn’t get as many bad reviews would be the Rust-Oleum Professional Series epoxy. The Professional series is solvent based instead of water based.
Best yet would be a higher quality epoxy that has up to 100% solids with no VOC’s to worry about. It’s more difficult to work with and you have a shorter period in which to do it, but when it cures, very little evaporates and what you have left is 100% of the product on your floor. As an example, epoxy paint is on average 2.5 mils thick when cured and 100% solids epoxy is 9 to 12 mils thick.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the Rust-Oleum and Quikrete epoxy paint is a one coat product with a semi-gloss finish, where as commercial epoxy systems are a minimum of three coats with at least one of those being a glossy clear coat. This is what gives epoxy floors their shine and depth.
So as you can see, there is a big difference between a one coat product such as the Rust-Oleum or Quikrete epoxy and the much thicker and more expensive multi-coat system of commercial epoxy floors. You cannot expect to get the same protection, durability, and shine from these simple one coat kits that you do from a higher quality commercial product.
The big issue though is that many home owners are not aware of these differences in epoxy floors and expect the best from the lesser expensive kits.
This video is a good and honest evaluation of the typical DIY epoxy paint kits you can purchase from home improvement centers
Another problem is poor preparation of the floor when these kits are installed. This is probably the biggest mistake that is made. The pores of the concrete surface need to be exposed in order for epoxy to mechanically bond to it. This is called profiling the concrete. Rust-Oleum and Quikrete both give you a citrus acid cleaning solution to use on the concrete to help expose these pores, but the problem is that it’s not always effective. Many times you need something stronger such as muriatic acid to etch the floor.
A few drops of water on various spots of the floor can test this. If the concrete turns dark and immediately absorbs the water, then the concrete is profiled correctly. If it sits there without absorbing right away, the pores are not exposed and the epoxy will not bond well.
Poor profiling of the concrete is what causes the delamination or peeling of the epoxy paint within a few weeks or months. The pores of the concrete must be exposed and be free of all oils and dust. It takes more work to prep the floor than it does to apply the epoxy paint. Poor floor preparation is the cause of most bad coatings.
Can we recommend Rust-Oleum or Quikrete epoxy paint?
So, are the Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield and Quikrete garage floor epoxy paint kits truly bad? No, not necessarily. If you properly prepare your floor then you should be satisfied with the results as long as you are aware that what you are applying is not the same as a commercial epoxy coating. There are many people who have done just that and give great reviews about their floors.
For additional protection and a longer lasting floor coating, you can purchase an optional second coat of clear epoxy which will enhance the look and prolong the protection of the floor by doubling the thickness. The average life expectancy of these floors is 3 – 5 years before they start to show their age and even longer if you apply a second coat of clear.
Dollar for dollar, Rust-Oleum and Quickrete epoxy paint cannot compete with a commercial quality epoxy coating when you cost average your floor over years of service, but if you are on a budget, then these just might be the product you are looking for. In fact, there are actually more satisfied customers who have purchased these products and would recommend them again, than there are bad reviews. Just be sure that you know what to expect.
Mike says
Thanks for the valuable information. I was going to paint my garage floor and started looking at these kits instead. Now that I know what they actually do, I think I’m going to do my garage with these. I might even add a clear coat!
Shea says
I’m glad it helped Mike. Tell a friend about us!
John says
If I spring for an epoxy kit wth 100% solids how difficult will it be to install?
Shea says
The hardest part for most people to deal with John is the short pot life. Most epoxy paint kits have a pot life of 2 hours or more while 100% epoxy is around 45 minutes or so. This requires you to work fairly quick. 100% epoxy also requires backrolling which is an additional step. If you make sure to familiarize yourself with the process and maybe have a helper, you shouldn’t have any difficulties. Just make sure you prepare your floor correctly beforehand and you will have a great coating.
K.C. says
I’ve used the rustoleum products before. The first time I had a problem with the hot tires wearing the paint after about 4 years . I did it again in the house I’m in now and this time I put a coat of the clear epoxy on as well. I did this 3 years ago and so far there isn’t any sign of wear. I also like the way it makes the floor look shiny.
Shea says
A coat of clear epoxy over a paint kit will do wonders in terms of looks and durability. Glad it’s working out for you KC.
Angie says
Put epoxy on garage floor yesterday. Floor was cleaned numerous times, mixed the required time, laid it down in sections and husband and I spread it and backrolled. 18 hours later, it has set & hardened, but the surface is not smooth. It is not air bubbles, it appears like little hairs all over the entire surface. Could the foam roller have disenigrated while back rolling?
Shea says
Yes Angie, that sounds like a definite possibility. Unfortunately inexpensive foam rollers can deteriorate with epoxy. Quality nap rollers are the preferred material and even then it’s best to run them over a strip of duct tape to remove any loose strands in the roller first.
Another possibility is if you have a fiberglass impregnated concrete floor. This process is being used more in homes as an additional reinforcement for concrete. The very small strands of fiberglass are highlighted by the epoxy if not removed from the surface before the coating is applied.
Paul Noel says
Yes just got done with a new shop. The floor was poured 30+ days ago. The prob i think i may have is i did not put a water barrier down first. I was told that was a big mistake? Now i have come to know that i will be limited to what type of floor sealer i can use . Cost is important but having a good sealed floor is more so with me . The shop is a 30×40 and would like to keep the cost below 500 or so can one do this and still have a good prod that will last for many years? The shop will be used for parking and small do it your self projects not commercial use. Thank you for any help . Paul
Shea says
Hello Paul. Not having a vapor barrier installed isn’t necessarily a problem. It depends on many things such as is your slab below grade or not, water drainage around your slab and etc. Many coatings are installed on slabs without one as long as you don’t have moisture issues. If want to install an epoxy coating then you need to do a moisture test first. With your budget, the Rust-Oleum Professional epoxy coating will cost you around $400 (4 kits) plus supplies and money spent on prepping the surface. It is a decent DIY product that will last for quite a while depending on how well it is applied. It’s not designed for commercial use like 100% solids epoxy.
Your other option would be to apply a topical acrylic/epoxy hybrid sealer such as this one or a good penetrating sealer. You can easily do your floor for less than $500 with these options.
Ken says
I applied the Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield to my garage floor about five years ago. It is showing wear and fade. I have been looking for a touchup paint. Is it possible to apply the Pro series or commercial epoxy over the old coat?
Shea says
Hi Ken. If your coating is only showing wear and fade, not peeling or delamination problems, then you can apply a new coat over the existing surface. What you need to do is clean the floor, rough up the surface with 80-100 grit sandpaper, and then wipe it down with some denatured alcohol. We would recommend using the same product or the Professional series as you mentioned. If you want to use a commercial epoxy such as a 100% solids, we recommend grinding the old epoxy off first and then applying it.
Bruce says
My two car garage had paint on it when we moved in so I did the diamond grind to remove all the paint. I did the Home Depot kits and within a year it started to chip, fade, and the tire tracks have lost almost all of the coating. Generally looks like crap. The question I have is that can I apply new epoxy over the old? Will doing another diamond grind get enough of the epoxy off so any new epoxy will have a chance of sticking? Can you even diamond grind off epoxy at all? I’d hate to do all this work only to have it fail again! Thanks for your advice.
Shea says
Hi Bruce. You are on the right track. You don’t want to apply the new epoxy over the old however since you have had problems with it. Diamond grinding will completely remove the old HD epoxy which we recommend. Once you grind, apply a quality high solids content epoxy with a top coat of polyurethane and you should have a floor that will last years.
Bruce says
Great! Now all I have to do is find a place for all the stuff in the garage!
Thanks for your help!
Chris says
How do you fix an epoxy floor after it starts to wear over the years? Can you strip the floor and do it again? Can you redo an area or touch it up?
Shea says
Hi Chris, you asked a great question. If the epoxy is just worn and not peeling up you can actually coat over it. Make sure the surface is clean then rough it up with 80 grit sandpaper. Wipe it down with denatured alcohol to remove the remaining dust and debris and you are ready to go. Be sure to coat over it with the same or similar product. The same can be done with touch ups as well. That is what’s nice about clear top coats. If the coating starts getting that worn look from over the years, just applying another coat of clear makes it look like new again.
If the coating is peeling up in areas, then it’s best to grind it all off and start fresh. Epoxy that is peeling, chipping up, or has air pockets is a sign of a bad prep job.
Rick says
What a helpful article and great site, I’m about to close on my first house shortly and I think this will make sense to do before I move everything in.
I read this article with all the comments and I decided on the Rust-Oleum kit. I did use the Rust-Oleum kit once before about 5 years ago on my sister’s garage with good results. Her floor did however peal in high traffic areas of the garage but for the amount of bang for your buck I still think the kit is worth it.
What I’m wondering is what type of clear coat or coating can I use in addition to the kit to help protect it even further? Also what type of roller will give me the best results for the application?
Shea says
Hi Rick. Rust-Oleum makes the EpoxyShield Premium Clear Coat in their solvent based product. It’s works great as a clear top coat over the color coat. The water based color coat product requires a 1/2″ nap roller while the Premium clear coat and Professional color coat products require a 3/8″ nap roller. Use quality synthetic, lint free rollers and be sure to run the roller over a strip of Duct tape before using them. This will remove any loose fibers that may still be on the roller from manufacturing.
Good Luck!
Rick says
Well after finding this site yesterday I got sucked in spending hours reading articles/reviews and I changed my mind.
I decided to go with the RockSolid Color System for my 2 car garage in the grey/stone color. Since I already used the Rust-Oleum kit I figured why not try something else. I won’t use my garage for much only storage the occasional brake job and of course a good car waxing.
Thanks in advance for any advice and I can’t stress enough the amount of helpful information on this site. It’s a must read for anyone who wants to research products and DIY before you buy.
Shea says
Thanks Rick and we are glad you found us.
Walker says
I ended up going with the Rust-Oleum Professional Epoxyshield for my 2 car garage and I have enough left over to mix and do a second coat before I put the EpoxyShield Premium Clear Coat over the top. In your opinion is it worth putting down the second coat before the clear coat?
Thanks for the great article it really helped me to make the right decision and to spend the time in the preparation.
Shea says
Hello Walker, I’m glad we could help. If you have enough left over without stretching it out and you are still within the 24 hour re-coat window, it would definitely help to put down another coat. A second coat creates good color uniformity and adds durability to the coating.
Tom says
I have a floor about 15 years old that I am going to epoxy. It looks like fiberglass resin was spilt on the floor along with some spots of paint. How would you recommend cleaning the floor before applying the finish?
Shea says
Hi Tom. The preferred method it to grind the concrete prior to application and acid etch at the minimum. If you etch, you will need to completely remove the paint and fiberglass resin as the epoxy will not stick to it.
Tom says
Thanks for the quick response, the answer was what I expected. Should I use a Tide or TSP mixture before I acid etch?
Shea says
Your welcome Tom. Tide works great and is our low budget favorite.
Max says
Hello,
I used the Rustoleum EpoxyShield base gray kit with flakes and the glossy top coat about 5 or 6 years ago on my concrete garage floor. Over the past 3 years I’ve gotten pot holes ranging from 1 inch to 4 inches inches in diameter. Basically it starts as a bubble that pushes on the epoxy until it cracks and comes off with about a half inch to an inch of concrete. The initiation site is very consistent between these now numerous pot holes. There is always a stone or some kind of filler material that is moist (much like a tooth cavity). The stone is about 1/4 inch in diameter and after cleaning it out the surface underneath is solid concrete.
I’ve been filling in these holes with the Rustoleum 2 part epoxy patch kit, which reminds me of J-B Weld, since it leaves a pretty shiny surface. This 2 part seems to hold up very well. My question is as follows. If I was to re-coat the floor in a few years, can I just lightly sand the current epoxy coat and patched holes, and re-coat using the same Rustoleum coating I used before since it’s cheap and simple to put down (and I’m assuming that epoxy likes to stick to epoxy)?
What steps should I follow?
Also, do you think these pot holes will stop forming at some point, or will they continue to form which would make this whole exercise pointless?
Thanks!
Shea says
Hi Max. It sounds like you have moisture issues with your slab. Water is collecting underneath the concrete and is forced up in areas by hydrostatic pressure. Since the epoxy adhered well to the concrete, it actually pulls up some of the cement with it when it is forced up by the moisture. Since it was fine for the first 2 or 3 years, you may have developed a drainage issue that allows water to collect against your slab, have a leaky sprinkler, or some other water intrusion. You need to solve that problem first before you re-coat as the same thing will happen again.
Once you solve that issue, your re-coat methods are right-on. After roughing up the surface, wipe it down with denatured alcohol and then apply the new coating.
Jeff says
I used EpoxyShield on my garage floor with good results, but living in Minnesota (road salt, freezing/expansion, etc.) I wanted to know if you have an idea of what I could protect and seal my one year old poured concrete driveway with. It is NOT an exposed aggregate. I have already purchased Behr Premium Concrete & Masonry Protector and Waterproofer but not sure this is a good solution for my situation, any advice or recommendations?
Shea says
Hello Jeff. The Behr product is not our favorite for this because it is a silicone based sealer. Silicone sealers don’t penetrate very deep into the concrete, they don’t last long, and they are U.V. unstable. We prefer siliconate based sealers instead such as this one. Siliconates penetrate deeper into the concrete, last for years, and actually increases the strength of the surface by chemically reacting with the concrete. You can read more about siliconate sealers here.
Jeff says
Thanks Shea, but now let’s assume that somehow the Behr product found it’s way onto my driveway……………what might be the best way to proceed from here? Sure wish I hadn’t started my day so early and just waited for your response instead. Great site you have here, btw!!!
Shea says
Hey Jeff. Well that’s unfortunate! Our suggestion is to wait till it starts to wear off the surface and then use a product like Dicone NC9. It’s a digestant that removes silicone based sealants. You will know it’s wearing down when it doesn’t bead well. After applying the Dicone you can reseal with a siliconate sealer instead.
Carol shannon says
We painted our basement floor about 5 years ago but wanted to bring it to another level so we were going to try the EPOxy shield floor coating. I’ve read the other comments and now know we can’t put the epoxy on it without sanding/grinding paint off (huge hassle). So we were wondering if we could put epoxy shield concrete resurfacer on our floor and then use the epoxy shield floor coating?
Shea says
Hi Carol. Unfortunately you are in the same boat. The paint needs to come off the floor first in order for an epoxy or resurfacer to adhere properly to the concrete.
Carol shannon says
O.K. Good to know & THANK YOU.
Shelley Yoelin says
I’ve just poured a new concrete garage floor. How long should I wait before applying the Epoxy coating. Does the new floor need to be etched?
THANKS!
Shea says
Hi Shelley. You need to wait a minimum of 28 days while the concrete cures. Be sure to do a moisture test first. Yes, you will need to acid etch or grind the surface before applying the epoxy.
fred nouvertne says
I put the rustoleum product epoxyshield on my garage floor about 8 years ago. Now it is almost worn away. How do I remove what is left of it to put a new coating on the garage floor?
Shea says
Hello Fred. You need to grind the rest of the product to remove it from the concrete. Grinding will not only remove the old product, it will better prepare your floor for the new. You can read about grinding concrete for coatings here.
henry says
Thanks for the great tips – as I read this, I’m convinced that I should go at least with the professional series with possibly an additional clear coat. But if I wanted to consider the commercial grade you referred to, can you recommend any brands and where to find this.
Shea says
Hello Henry. There are quite a few vendors of quality commercial grade products. The first we can recommend is Legacy Industrial. They offer free shipping and polyurethanes as well. Ask for Scotty if you call. The Epoxy Super Store has a variety of good products and Epoxy-Coat is another. These are just a few.
Lee Sylvia says
Shea,
Your entire site has been a huge help and this article in particular was excellent. What primer would you recommend before putting down the Rust-o-leum solvent based epoxy floor covering?
Shea says
Thank you Lee. Primers are designed primarily for 100% solids applications or other specific needs. The Rust-Oleum products do not require a primer as they are a thinner product to begin with (similar to a primer). Though not necessary, our recommendation for the best results would be to use two coats of the Rust-Oleum. The solvent based product does a good job of penetrating into properly prepared concrete. Because it goes down thin, this can lead to areas of the floor that may look less glossy or even a slightly different color. This is because the concrete has absorbed more in these areas thus leaving a thinner coated surface in those spots which creates the different appearance. The second coat will go down thicker since it is not absorbed and will look much more uniform in appearance. Plus it improves the durability of the coating.
Lee Sylvia says
Thanks for the reply Shea. I was concerned about the primer because I’ve filled my expansion gaps with a Polyurea based filler. The manufacturer of that product recommends priming of that material.
Mark Young says
Can you install this on a wood floor? I bought a kit and decided I didnt want to use it on my concrete floor so its been sitting going to waste. I thoght i would like to use it on my enclosed trailer floor but it doesnt say anything about wood.
Shea says
Hey Mark. Yes, you can use it on wood. The manufacturer will not warranty the product, but it works. Like concrete, the wood needs to be free of dirt, oils, grease, and needs to be sanded before you apply it. It will crack if it flexes too much however. Epoxy is much stronger than paint and not very flexible. Anytime you have a question about application you can always call the manufacturer’s toll free line for assistance.
Cindy Sobolewski says
My two-car garage floor is over 10 years old. When I first moved in, instead of using the epoxy paint, I bought two rolls of rubber mats and laid them down with the seam in the middle of the garage. This month I decided to finally pull up the mats and use the Rustoleum epoxy paint kit on my garage floor. This is the second time I’ve used this product and while it is fairly easy to use, I always end up having a hard time finishing as the paint starts to set before I can finish rolling. Another issue I’m having this time is where I edged around the floor the paint is darker than the rest of the floor and after 2.5 days is still tacky to the touch. Will this eventually dry to the same color as the rest of the floor?
Shea says
Hi Cindy. Yes, you do have to work quicker than regular paint in order to get the epoxy down before it starts to set up. If you used a brush on the edges or a small roller, you may have put the epoxy on thicker. When rolling out the rest of the floor, many times people are trying to get the best coverage rate and put it on thinner. This can make the edging look darker and richer. As it cures it should blend in better. As long as the edge doesn’t feel soft or move around when you press on it, it may take a little longer than the rest of the floor to cure.
Dave says
Directions for the Rust-Oleum epoxy state don not apply if the temperature dips to below 45 degrees. My wife and I are debating this. In a heated garage, what difference does it make about outside temp? Living in South Dakota this time of year the temps drop into the 40s and upper 30s. Do we wait until spring?
Shea says
Hi Dave. It’s a good question you bring up. The floor temp is just as important if not more than the air temp. Read what we wrote here about applying epoxy in cold temps. it should answer most if not all your questions.
Roy says
Thank you for such a great source of unbiased clear information. I am building the hobby shop garage-mahal of my dreams, a 40×60 with a hoist. The slab is a hard troweled smooth finish. I wanted to seal it against salt and soaking up oil. Then I decided to dress it up with an acid stain appearance. Probably mistake #1. I didn’t want to degrade the hard trowel finish so I bought a product called Lastiseal that advertised an acid stain appearance without the acid and seals and strengthens the concrete. Great, except now I have to acid etch the concrete prior to using the Lastiseal and then they recommend a topcoat. I have several questions.
1) Have you or any readers any experience with Lastiseal?
2) The local building store has the Quikcrete Clear Premium Epoxy kits on clearance for about $40 per kit. Is this the better clear epoxy coating you are referring to in this thread, and would this be a pretty good top coat or should I consider a different product?
3) I plan to do all the right prep. Any other advice on sealing the floor?
Thanks for your help.
Shea says
Hi Roy. Wow, that’s a lot of concrete to seal! As you discovered, almost any hard troweled concrete surface will require acid etching or grinding to apply a coating and it is sometimes required for sealers as well. We are familiar with the LastiSeal product but haven’t received much feedback from people who have used it. It’s definitely a good idea to apply a film forming sealer on the top. It will make the color pop and prevent any fluids that sit from staining the surface.
The Quikrete product would not be our first choice. It’s an inexpensive water based product with a low solids content that will only last a few years or so. Since this is your “Garage-Mahal” and you are going to apply the time and effort for prepping the concrete properly, we would recommend using a better quality product that will last for years. A good example would be an epoxy primer coat followed up with a single coat of polyurethane. It is extremely durable, chemical and scratch resistant, but will not be cheap for that size floor. Since we aren’t sure what your budget is, our first recommendation would be to give Legacy Industrial a call. They have quality epoxy and polyurethane sealers and less expensive MMA acrylic sealers that will all work, but it depends on your budget. Their customer service is excellent and they can help you figure out what to expect for performance vs cost. Even if you don’t purchase from them, you will get a better idea of what it’s going to take. Good Luck!
Jay says
I etched, cleaned and applied the Epoxy Shield professional. The temperature dropped the night after we applied and stayed colder than I expected the next few days. It has been almost 3 weeks and the floor dried but has a slight tacky feel to it throughout the garage. I also in one corner got a flat head screwdriver and can scratch the epoxy to a small extent. Is the floor basically doomed? I have read that you can apply another coat that would help harden what is underneath to some degree. What would you recommend?
Shea says
Hello Jay. If the temps dropped real low for a few days immediately after application it can have a permanent effect on the cure. However, epoxy that is applied at the cusp of the temperature ranges can take much longer to cure, but it will cure eventually. You may need to wait longer. Our suggestion is to call Rust-Oleum’s customer service to talk to a tech rep. Tell them what temperature it dropped down to and for how long, as well as what the lows have been since. They should know their product and tell you what you can expect as far how it will turn out.
Thor says
Wow. Tons of great information. I am getting ready to apply the rustoleum water based($99) kit. I used the etch that comes in the box but was not happy with the results. Yesterday I used the muriatic acid which seemed to clean significantly better. I purchased the SealKrete primer and planned on putting that down before the epoxy, but after reading some of the posts above, I am not sure. What would you recommend?
Shea says
Hello Thor. Good call on doing a stronger etch. Do not use the Seal-Krete primer. It is for latex floor paints and will not work for your epoxy. The water based Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield that you are using is a lower solids content epoxy that is similar in viscosity to regular epoxy primers. It is best used by itself.
Thor says
Shea, thank you for the tip. Do you think I should clear seal over the epoxy? What brand would you recommend? Thank you for your time.
Shea says
It’s a great idea to add a clear coat to your color coat. You can read why here. We would recommend the Rust-Oleum Professional Clear Coat for your application since it is compatible with the your color coat. If your local home improvement center doesn’t have it, you can get a good price from Amazon here.
brian says
I applied rustoleum garage floor product….unfortunately, before I read this site. oh well, too late now. so to make the best of it I plan to apply a clear coat (live in USVI so brand options are limited…HC is available). Should I use solvent based or latex clear coat? I am sure the solvent would be more durable but not sure about compatibility with epoxy. may be no issue. how long do I need to wait after applying epoxy, to apply clear coat? 24 hours? 3 days? longer? thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Shea says
Hey Brian. Using the Rust-Oleum product isn’t necessarily a bad thing, it sounds like your choices are limited where you live. You can apply an epoxy or polyurethane clear coat over the epoxy. When choosing between solvent based and water based, the solvent based will almost always be a better coating. You have from 12 – 24 hours to apply the clear to achieve a chemical bond. Longer than 24 hours requires de-glossing the finish by roughing it up with sandpaper to achieve a mechanical bond then wiping it down with denatured alcohol. You cannot apply a latex clear however – are you choosing the correct product?