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If you ask a person who has used a Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield or Quikrete garage floor epoxy paint kit to give you a review, you will get a different answer almost every time. Many people do not have kind words for these kits. They complain of the epoxy paint peeling up fairly quickly or of the coating itself wearing out in places. There are times however when Rust-Oleum or Quikrete don’t always deserve the bad reviews that they receive.
These kits of course are the ones you can purchase from your local home improvement center or online for $65 to $75. This one here is a good example from Amazon. They are water based, you generally have a choice of tan or gray colors, and they even have decorative paint chips to toss onto the surface. All of these kits will include some form of a citrus acid etch and cleaning solution for the concrete.
So why are so many people unhappy and bringing the reputation of these epoxy paints into question? The answer lies partly in people’s expectations, their lack of knowledge on how epoxy paint works, and the marketing of the paint kits themselves.
So why the problems with Rust-Oleum and Quikrete?
When the decision has been made to upgrade the protection and looks of the garage floor, some don’t want to break the bank or are on a budget which is understandable. When they visit their local home improvement store to see what paint is available, they may be advised on the added benefits of epoxy instead.
They are then pointed to the epoxy paint kits instead of the standard latex acrylic garage floor paint. Once they see the nice shiny picture on the box promising a beautiful epoxied floor that goes on with ease, they spend a little more money expecting the long lasting and durable coating that is advertised on the box.
The other scenario is the online shopper looking for a deal on epoxy floor coating products. They find great deals online for these epoxy garage floor paint kits with all the promises of a beautiful epoxy floor for less than half the price of other epoxy systems. They then make the purchase not really knowing what they are getting.
So, what are they getting? Both the Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield and Quikrete epoxy paint is an actual 2-part water based epoxy coating — one part is a tinted epoxide resin and the second part is a polyamine hardener. Both have approximately a 50% solids content by volume with the remaining being water. The water acts as a carrier agent for the epoxy and allows it to be applied very easily, just like paint and that is why they are marketed as such.
What happens, however, is this water base evaporates as the epoxy cures and what you are left with is just over 50% of what originally went on the concrete. Actual dry film thickness is approximately 3 mils for the Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield product and 2.4 mils for Quikrete.
————- Epoxy Review Update ————-
Due to the amount of questions we have received, we want to update this article to include the Valspar garage flooring kit as well. It falls into the same category as EpoxyShield and Quikrete. The Valspar product is a water based 2-part epoxy paint kit that cures to a dry film thickness of 1.5 mils.
Lowes generally carries this line, but you can find it here from Amazon and usually at a much better price.
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A better quality kit that is more expensive but doesn’t get as many bad reviews would be the Rust-Oleum Professional Series epoxy. The Professional series is solvent based instead of water based.
Best yet would be a higher quality epoxy that has up to 100% solids with no VOC’s to worry about. It’s more difficult to work with and you have a shorter period in which to do it, but when it cures, very little evaporates and what you have left is 100% of the product on your floor. As an example, epoxy paint is on average 2.5 mils thick when cured and 100% solids epoxy is 9 to 12 mils thick.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the Rust-Oleum and Quikrete epoxy paint is a one coat product with a semi-gloss finish, where as commercial epoxy systems are a minimum of three coats with at least one of those being a glossy clear coat. This is what gives epoxy floors their shine and depth.
So as you can see, there is a big difference between a one coat product such as the Rust-Oleum or Quikrete epoxy and the much thicker and more expensive multi-coat system of commercial epoxy floors. You cannot expect to get the same protection, durability, and shine from these simple one coat kits that you do from a higher quality commercial product.
The big issue though is that many home owners are not aware of these differences in epoxy floors and expect the best from the lesser expensive kits.
This video is a good and honest evaluation of the typical DIY epoxy paint kits you can purchase from home improvement centers
Another problem is poor preparation of the floor when these kits are installed. This is probably the biggest mistake that is made. The pores of the concrete surface need to be exposed in order for epoxy to mechanically bond to it. This is called profiling the concrete. Rust-Oleum and Quikrete both give you a citrus acid cleaning solution to use on the concrete to help expose these pores, but the problem is that it’s not always effective. Many times you need something stronger such as muriatic acid to etch the floor.
A few drops of water on various spots of the floor can test this. If the concrete turns dark and immediately absorbs the water, then the concrete is profiled correctly. If it sits there without absorbing right away, the pores are not exposed and the epoxy will not bond well.
Poor profiling of the concrete is what causes the delamination or peeling of the epoxy paint within a few weeks or months. The pores of the concrete must be exposed and be free of all oils and dust. It takes more work to prep the floor than it does to apply the epoxy paint. Poor floor preparation is the cause of most bad coatings.
Can we recommend Rust-Oleum or Quikrete epoxy paint?
So, are the Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield and Quikrete garage floor epoxy paint kits truly bad? No, not necessarily. If you properly prepare your floor then you should be satisfied with the results as long as you are aware that what you are applying is not the same as a commercial epoxy coating. There are many people who have done just that and give great reviews about their floors.
For additional protection and a longer lasting floor coating, you can purchase an optional second coat of clear epoxy which will enhance the look and prolong the protection of the floor by doubling the thickness. The average life expectancy of these floors is 3 – 5 years before they start to show their age and even longer if you apply a second coat of clear.
Dollar for dollar, Rust-Oleum and Quickrete epoxy paint cannot compete with a commercial quality epoxy coating when you cost average your floor over years of service, but if you are on a budget, then these just might be the product you are looking for. In fact, there are actually more satisfied customers who have purchased these products and would recommend them again, than there are bad reviews. Just be sure that you know what to expect.
Christy says
Hi,
We applied the RustOlium 2part epoxy yesterday. We’re in CA but having a cold spell. I waited 9 hours for the epoxy paint (+flecks) to dry with the garage door open so that the doors being closed would leave marks on the floor. When it started to get dark I felt I needed to close the doors for security. I needed to step on the painted area of the floor to reach the garage door release to close it. Here’s the bad part-I put down a piece of thin plastic so I could reach the release but when I tried to pick up the plastic it tore off, it had adhered to the tacky paint surface. I hope this can be repaired with another kit but I don’t know what to use to get the plastic up first. Please help!
Shea says
Hi Christy. I thought for sure you were going to ask how to pull a stuck mouse off the coating (it happens..). You can try soaking a rag in MEK or acetone and dab it around the edges of the plastic. If the epoxy isn’t too hard yet, it may loosen up around the edges of the plastic and allow you to start pulling it up. Of course you would need to keep dabbing the solution at the edges as it comes up. If the epoxy surface is not too damaged, you can immediately recoat the garage floor.
If that doesn’t work, you will need to wait a few days for the epoxy to fully cure. Once it does, you can sand the plastic off with a heavy grit sandpaper. 60 to 80 grit should do it. After that, rough up the rest of the floor with some 100 grit sandpaper on a pole sander. You are just trying to degloss the surface so that a new coat will adhere properly. Wipe it down with denatured alcohol and then apply your second coat.
Darrell says
I have the epoxyshield down on my garage floor with a lot of the chips and also put the anti slip with the expoxy and decided to put the premium clear coating after the 5 days recommended time frame, it says to scuff the floor before putting the clear down . If I scuff the floor Iam just going to be scraping the chips back up .Any recommendation?
Shea says
Hello Darrell. Unfortunately you will be scraping some chips up in the process. If they were put down fairly quickly after application of the epoxy they should have sunk in a little to get a good hold. Most likely you will not loose too many during this process. You will loose the benefit of the anti-slip however since you will be covering it up with the clear coat. Anti-slip in most cases should always go into the last coat.
Dwight says
Hi I was wanting to do something to my basement floor. The house is about 10 years old and the concrete has been sealed. Since there will not be any cars or lawn equipment on it would a 1 part epoxy be ok. I was planing on stripping the sealer off first then applying a primer. Do you have any recommendations? I was thinking about the Behr 1 part epoxy. Thanks for the info.
Shea says
Hello Dwight. 1-Part epoxy paint will hold up well in a basement. Here is an article with our recommendations.
Larry Wolf says
You omit one other big factor–the length of curing time for the concrete floor itself. Most of these paints require the cement to be at least a year old and 99.99% cured. If not, the paints will NOT adhere worth a damn and peeling is guaranteed. NEVER paint a recently poured cement floor in a garage, basement, etc. NEVER!
Shea says
Hi Larry, you bring up a good point. However, paint and epoxies do not require 1 years’ curing time for a new slab before application. Industry standard is 30 days for a typical 4″ thick concrete slab and these manufacturers state that in their warranties and instructions. We actually prefer 60 days if you can wait that long because it completely reduces any chance of moisture from a curing slab being cause to a delamination issue.
Rebecca says
Can you use the professional on a shower floor?
Shea says
Hi Rebecca. It’s not recommended because it will be extremely slippery. If the shower pan flexes at all, it will crack the epoxy as well. Epoxy is extremely hard, but it’s not designed to flex at all.
Jeff says
I had put down the epoxyshield on my garage floor over 10 years ago. During that time, it has not lifted or cracked. I had used muriatic acid to etch the floor & I did give the floor additional time to dry. This product is great if people follow directions!!! My question is, am I able to apply another coat over top of the old? During the 10+ years, I’ve dropped heavy objects that chipped the concrete & would like to apply another coat over top of the old. Thank you for your time.
Shea says
Hello Jeff. Yes, one of the key components is following directions correctly. The fact that you did a muriatic acid etch instead of the citrus etch has definitely helped. You can definitely apply a new coat on top of old epoxy that is still holding up. We have an article on that right here.
Ron says
Is there a recommended primer that can be applied to a well profiled floor before coating with the Rust-Oleum product?
I will be using hopefully a single coat of base color, and two professional clear top coating. I am in Alberta, Canada, and this puts me $100-$200 short of my budget, so another primer coat is probably withing reach. All other coatings available are over budget.
Shea says
Hello Ron. Because the Rust-Oleum products are lower solids in nature they do not require a primer. You may need two color coats however with a well profiled floor. The first coat with low solids epoxy can soak in well (as primers do) in areas and leave a very thin dry film thickness that will look dull in color and is fairly noticeable. It’s exactly as most primers look when applied to a well profiled floor. The second coat bonds chemically to the first coat and leaves a much thicker and consistent colored finish since it doesn’t soak in.
Ron says
So maybe I need to reset my plans a bit. The floor has to be ground, and I will etch afterwords. I have just shy of 1000 sq/ft.
I had hoped to use 4 Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield Garage Floor Coating Kit Grey, as a base coat, and then 4 Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield Premium Garage Floor Coating Clear, to give two top coats of clear. This takes me to about $700 Cdn when the product is on sale, with my employee discount.
For me to do two base coats, I have to drop a top coat, and it will be a little bit more money. 8 base and 2 top coat products.
Please correct me if you recommend the amount of product required should be changed, or if you think I should go a different direction.
I also looked at Rust Bullet, but a 5 gal pail is more money, and only might be enough product. A profiled floor may give issues to this product?
Again the floor has to be ground.
I have heard from many sources that primer is not required for Epoxy Shield , but I have also read that some other products, primer is recommended. Not arguing about the use of primer, but not necessary, is not wont work. Will the product not bind to a primer? Could the end result be it works better and might save me some cash?
Wishing I had more time and money to work with.
Ron
Great site by the way, thanks.
Shea says
Thanks for the kudos Ron. You may be confused about primers being required for many of the1-Part epoxy paints. They are essentially a latex paint with some epoxy added so that it can be called an epoxy paint. Most require a concrete or masonry bonding primer. The Rust-Oleum 2-Part epoxy products are a true epoxy coating though they are marketed as paint. This is where a lot of the confusion comes to play for the average guy trying to find the right product to use. They do not require a primer, nor is a primer made specifically for that product. Most actual epoxy primers are approximately the same solids content as the Rust-Oleum epoxy, but they are a better quality epoxy product. They also cost a bit more as well. They are used when applying a very high solids or 100% solids epoxy as the color build coat.
Unfortunately, your budget and the large square footage are your limiting factors here. Rust Bullet is a better product but would require 3 coats for a floor that has been ground (not including a clear coat). Your best bet at this point would most likely be the two Rust-Oleum color coats to insure a good color uniformity and gloss and then 1 clear coat. You can always do another clear coat later when the budget allows it.
Dan Baker says
We are wanting to coat a 3 car garage floor that has never been coated and like what the Rustoleum Rocksolid product seems to offer. Is this a newer product as it has just come onto the shelves in our market. We want the wet look when we are finished and need help in the process to achieve this finish. Thanks.
Shea says
Hello Dan. The RockSolid polycuramine is a fairly new product and replaced the RockSolid polyurea garage floor kit. Gloss is what gives floor coatings the “wet look” you are after, so a clear top coat is definitely a must. Also, since the RockSolid product is a thin build, some have found that it requires two color coats to get good color uniformity and gloss. It depends on how much of the first coat is absorbed into the concrete. Floors without color flakes tend to look more “wet” than floors with lots of flakes, so that is something to consider.
Dan Baker says
Thanks so much for the response Shea. What is the exact name of the product I need to use for the wet look? Also, will putting the top coat wet look make the coatings a better protection against tire lift? I want the very best I can get with no expense concern and also no tire lift in the future. Thanks so much. Dan
Shea says
If you want a high quality epoxy coating Dan that will last for years and not have tire lift, then these thin build DIY coatings are not the best choice. We recommend installing a high solids epoxy system or polyurea/polyaspartic system for your garage. These are multi-coat commercial quality products with high gloss factors. High performance polyurethane or polyaspartic top coats will give great gloss to help achieve the look you want.
The best place to find these types of floor coating systems is from actual concrete floor coating vendors. Garage Flooring LLC is and excellent example as well as Legacy Industrial. EpoxyMaster is another. Give each a call and tell them what your goals are. They can make some good suggestions for you dependent on budget and skills. These systems are going to be more expensive than what you find at home improvement centers, but they are designed to last for 15 years or more and are the best money spent in the long run.
J.T. says
You get what you pay for, right? Professional kits are the way to go.
Chadd says
Hello,
Would the Rust-Oleum Professional Series epoxy work (linked to Amazon above) with the SW ArmorSeal HS Polyurethane as a top coat? I have read on your site that some top coats are not compatible with other bases. I would hate to see the 2 different systems destroy each other.
Thanks – C
Shea says
Hello Chadd. Yes, the SW ArmorSeal HS Polyurethane would work well with the Rust-Oleum Professional series epoxy.
Chadd says
Thanks much. I was reading through all the comments about the Rust-Oleum pro series epoxy on Amazon. Only 1 question was about primer and the person responded saying just make sure you prep the floor properly. From what I have been reading on here, GJ, etc, it seems like I should use a primer though. Would the primer help with adhesion or should I just make sure I have etched the floor properly? Will the primer help with the kit coverage?
Thanks -C
Chadd says
Just noticed 1 of your above comments that said there isn’t a specific primer for the rust pro series nor is it specifically required because of the high solids. However, could it help? Would there be a better primer to use? I am mostly thinking about getting better coverage. I have a 720 sq ft floor so I will be doing 2 kits anyways, just hoping I don’t have to do 3.
Thanks again -C
Shea says
A good primer Chadd is going to cost just as much if not more than the Rust-Oleum you are planning to use. Because you are thinking of investing in a primer and you want a polyurethane top coating, you should seriously look into the cost of a good commercial system from a quality vendor. It wouldn’t cost that much more and you would be installing very high quality product that will perform better than the Rust-Oleum/SW Polyurethane combo. Legacy Industrial and Garage Flooring LLC offer such kits with a primer, high solids base coat, and polyurethane top coats. Plus the customer service is going to be there when you need it. We suggest calling them and talk to them about your square footage and find out the best deal they can do for you.
If the cost is out of your budget, then we recommend staying with the Rust-Oleum/SW Polyurethane combo you were originally asking about and forgo the primer.
Shea says
Primers are recommended for high solids (greater than 90%) base coat applications Chadd. The Rust-Oleum Professional is a solvent based epoxy that is not considered high solids. The mix is less viscous than high solids, similar to primers, and penetrates well into properly prepared substrate. The key is proper prep of the concrete for best adhesion.
dean demars says
I am doing my basement with rocksolid diamond coat metallic system, I have rented a floor grinder , do I clean an etch before or after grinding?
Shea says
Hello Dean. Grinding is the best prep method for concrete. When grinding, etching is not required.
Brian says
Very soon I am taking delivery of a brand new enclosed car trailer with a bare plywood floor. Can an epoxy paint be used on this floor?
Shea says
Hello Brian. Yes, epoxy can be applied to wood. Just prep the wood with 60 grit sandpaper first. Keep in mind that epoxy does not flex. If the floor has a lot of give or movement it can cause the epoxy to crack. If the floor does flex, you might want to look at a polyurea. They are much more flexible and can be applied to wood as well. Nohr-S is a good example.
John says
Can i use the 2 part epoxy from rust oleum on a carport?
Shea says
Hello John. Technically you can, but it’s not a good option and is not recommended. Epoxy is not U.V. stable and will amber (yellow) badly when used outdoors.
Brandon says
If I plan on grinding my garage floor clean. I know it’s not needed to etch but if I was to etch also would it be even better. I like to over due things just in case…
Shea says
No, it will not be any better Brandon. In fact, you would be introducing moisture into the concrete (assuming you are grinding dry) that would require you to wait a minimum of 24 to 48 hours for the concrete to dry completely before application of the first coat.
jill says
Hi, the house we bought 5 years ago came w/ an epoxy garage floor. It was perfect, beautiful. Now it’s peeling in numerous spots. It’s very obviously. Any suggestions on patchwork to correct. We are not super handy. Thanks, Jill
Shea says
Hello Jill. It’s hard to determine how to patch an epoxy floor without knowing what type was used, how many coats, color flake coverage, top coats, and etc. One or two spots and you can usually get by with a repair. But if it’s peeling in numerous spots, it’s an indication of something else going on. You could have moisture in the concrete, an inferior product showing it’s age, or other issues related to concrete prep. At this point we recommend calling in a concrete coating contractor or garage floor coating company to give you a free assessment of the situation.
BRANDON says
I am having a hard time finding the darker gray Rust-Oleum 2 part water-based epoxy. I will probably need 2 two-and-a-half car kits to finish my project. If I was to purchase the gloss light grey kits could I add something to darken them up. Thanks
Shea says
Hello Brandon. The Dark Gray is usually found in the solvent based Rust-Oleum Professional series epoxy. You can find it here for example. The water based version is only available in the standard gray and tan. You really can’t add anything to make it darker. Rust-Oleum does have a water based tint series that allows for a variety of colors, but we have never seen it in stores. We suggest contacting Rust-Oleum about where to purchase.
David says
I used Epoxyshield about 10 years ago and it held up pretty well though now it is showing quite a bit of wear especially where the car tires have tracked. What needs to be done to the good and bad parts of the floor to prep for repainting, and what do I need to know about repainting it with another coat of some type of epoxy?
Shea says
Hi David. Read this article about just such a project. If you have any more questions, just ask.
Kevin says
I used the Rust Oleum brand twice and it looked beautiful until we actually drove a car on it 2 weeks later. DO NOT buy this crap!!!!
Steve says
I have VCT tile on my garage floor and I am consider using Rustoleum Polycuramine® Garage Floor Coating Kit 20X, which says that it will cover tile. I have to strip and sand (60-80 grit) before application. I looked all over the net to see an actual job with picks and step x step process. If the results are good, I will cover the VCT with the epoxy. Has anyone had this experience and would share.
Thanks
Shea says
Hi Steve. We actually cover the topic here. Applying epoxy over VCT can be done, but most people have chosen not to because the success rate is not 100%. Many epoxy and coating manufacturer’s don’t stand by their product when used over VCT either, though some do, as we explain in the article. That is why you have had a hard time finding a step by step method.
Rick McMorris says
I manage an apartment complex with a concrete floor in the garbage room. The room gets a lot of traffic and I would like to have a coating that will be more sanitary than bare concrete. I have a pamphlet from Qwikrete with a picture of the Porch blue.
I’ve been painting for 30 years and am well aware of surface prep. Still the room has a lot of traffic garbage bins rolling around and hose down twice a week, 300 people using it etc.
It will be exposed to cleaners but not solvents.
Budget is not really a problem but durability is. I was thinking the two part with clear on top.
Can you please suggest a product that will be most adequate?
Can I apply a clear every year or so or something that can be maintained to keep it new?
Thank you so much.
Rick
Shea says
Hello Rick. We would recommend a high solids 2-part epoxy with polyurethane or polyurea clear. This type of system is extremely durable and will stand up to washing down, cleaner, chemicals, and solvents. If the clear starts to show scratches or wear after a few years, you can easily sand it down some and apply a new coat of clear to make it look brand new.
EpoxyMaster ships to Canada, as well as Legacy Industrial and Garage Flooring LLC. EpoxyMaster has three different blues and can custom match colors as well. We suggest giving any of these vendors a call and talk to them. Their customer service is good and can help you out choosing the best product for your needs. You will pay more than the store bought kits, but the quality will save you money and time in the long run.
Tammy says
Hi Rick,
I just used the Epoxyshield 2 part kit on my garage floor. I am disappointed that it lacks the shine. How do I get the high gloss look?
Shea says
Hello Tammy. The shine or gloss of these store bought kits are not up to par with that of the higher solids, commercial quality kits. You could add a clear coat to the floor to improve the shine however. It would require roughing up the surface of color coat before applying a new coat of clear.
Erika Mathews says
My 1 car garage is 2 story we use the room under the Garage for storing lawnmower and other stuff. the top floor is the garage .It has heavy beams and a cement floor , the cement floor is crumbling from winter snow-salt.
I would like to get a epoxy floor covering. I can not do that myself I would like to have it done by a professional . Any advise would be greatly appreciated
Thank you Erika Mathews
Shea says
Hello Erika. We recommend doing a search using the keywords “garage floor coating contractors” along with your city. Make appointments for a free estimate with at least three. Have them inspect your garage floor and give a quote for repairs and a floor coating. This article here will help you with how to evaluate and choose the best one for you.
Christine DAmico says
I applied Rustoleum “Rock Solid Metallic” to my concrete floor. Since doing some construction I now have deep scratches threw the clear coat and color coat. What can I use to cover the scratches ?
Shea says
Hi Christine. We’re sorry to hear about the scratches. Touching up epoxy floors, especially metallic floors, can be very difficult as many times the touch up areas stick out more than the scratches. It’s not like touching up wall paint. When an area of new epoxy is applied over old, it takes on a different sheen and the roller marks will show on the edges. Because these types of systems are sold in a kit form, touch up kits are not available either. You will need to either apply another full coat now to cover it up or wait until the floor develops enough minor defects and scratches over the years and do it then.
Chris says
I have a single car garage that I am looking to paint. I picked up two of the rustoleum kits plus a clear coat when they were on sale. My plan was to prep and paint using the two kits with clear overtop to thicken it up a bit and hopefully last a bit longer for my budget. Would you recommend using a primer before hand to aid in adhesion or am I getting into a bit of overkill for a “one-step” kit?
Shea says
You don’t need a primer with the Rust-Oleum kits Chris. Epoxy primers are used when applying commercial quality, high solids coatings. They are more durable and cost more than the home improvement kits. The Rust-Oleum product is a lower solids coating that gets good penetration as is.
Chris says
Thanks for the quick reply Shea, I have to do a moisture test to be sure but I have a feeling that I’m in an area with high moisture so I guess I was thinking more of a moisture sealant type primer. Even with the extra coats of the epoxyshield, would I still likely be worrying about hot tire pickup? I guess I’m on the fence on whether I stick with what I have or go with something like the rust bullet system and spend a little extra.
Shea says
If you suspect high moisture Chris, then you should be performing a calcium chloride test first to determine exactly how much moisture you have in order to determine if you can use a coating at all. Coatings do not fair well will moisture. There are epoxy vapor barrier primers available for high moisture, but they are very expensive. Once you get that information you will have a better idea of which way to go.
gemma says
Hello Please help! We have stone carpet flooring on kitchen and utility room. We have rustoleum water based epoxy floor shield. We are trying to remove the sealant and the floors have been left by a contractor in a terrible state as they cannot remove the sealant. He has tried different products but no luck. Please advise what product will remove this sealant. much appreciated!
Shea says
Hello Gemma. Are you trying to remove a sealant in order to install these products? Is the sealant a coating on the concrete or in the concrete?
Gemma says
Hello yes trying to remove a sealant on a stone carpet floor and haven’t found the right product to use. The sealant is on top of the flooring that we were recommended to put on top. It’s left a terrible mess. Many thanks
Shea says
OK, that makes more sense Gemma. Your best approach is to contact the company that makes the sealer. They will know what works best to remove the sealer chemically from the surface. Also, contact Stone Carpet Flooring and tell them what happened. They can guide you along with this as well. You want to make sure that what you use to remove the sealer will be compatible with the flooring and not discolor it.
Gemma says
Thank you very much!