Trying to figure out the best garage floor epoxy coating system for your garage as well as your budget isn’t always easy. With so many epoxy products, manufacturers, and commercial installers to choose from, it can be frustrating and somewhat overwhelming if you don’t know exactly what you want or how an epoxy coating system works.
The easiest way to tackle this problem is to break it down into the different types of epoxy products available and explain how they are installed together as systems. You can choose to purchase and install the epoxy yourself or hire a garage floor coating contractor with their own products. Either way, our goal here is to help eliminate the confusion about epoxy and to educate you on the different options available in order to choose the best epoxy for you.
What you don’t want to be fooled by are the many ignorant epoxy reviews that you can find online. These are usually titled as “The Top 10 Epoxy Garage Floor Coatings” or something similar. These are articles written by people who have little to any knowledge of concrete coatings in general.
There are many reputable brands of epoxy available. What it comes down to when determining the best coating for your garage floor is, what type of epoxy is it and how is it used as part of a system? So please read on to learn what constitutes your basic epoxy products and systems all the way to the best that you can install for your garage floor.
Waterborne Epoxy Paint
Water based epoxy is easy to apply and has a longer pot life that reduces the worry of getting it applied as quickly as other epoxy products require. It’s almost as easy to apply as paint and is why it’s advertised as epoxy paint. Because of this, it is the favorite type that companies like to market to the DIY crowd.
Your first choice is the “do it yourself” epoxy paint kits by brands such as RustOleum or Quikrete for example. They can be purchased from your local home improvement center or hardware store for anywhere from $50 to $70 depending on brand and are available in either gray or tan.
These kits are designed as a single coat system with roughly 50% solids content of epoxy and a coverage rate of around 250 square feet. They roll on easy and cure to a thin coat of approximately 3 mils with a matte to semi-gloss finish.
Though inexpensive, this is the least durable of epoxy to apply. They are based on older formulations and are not the best value for your dollar. Their resistance to stains and chemicals are not as good as other types of garage floor epoxy and they are susceptible to hot tire lift.
If you like the easier application requirements of water based epoxy, you can increase the durability and protection with a more professional multi-coat kit that offers a second coat of epoxy clear as a top coat. This also doubles the coating thickness from 3 mils to 6 mils. Some brands such as The Original Color Chips offer kits such as these. They are a better value for the money with more current epoxy formulations and pricing starting around $175.
High Solids Epoxy
The next step up is the commercial grade epoxy products. They have the best resistance to stains, chemicals, and abrasion. They also have high solids content with the best being 100% solids epoxy.
The 100% solids single coat system is much thicker and will cure to approximately 10 mils or more depending on the brand. In fact, a single coat of 100% solids epoxy is more durable than two coats of a typical water based product. High solids epoxy make for a great color base coat to a multi-coat system due to their high build and are available in many choices of color options as well.
Cost for these commercial grade products vary depending on the solids content and brand. Expect to pay a minimum of $115 for clear epoxy only that will cover 250 square feet. The price goes up from there for standard colors and custom tints. For an average price of $180, many of these kits include the tools required to apply them plus a bag of colored acrylic paint flakes or chips to apply to the floor as well.
Though this type of epoxy is a much better value, it is not as DIY friendly as water based epoxy. It has a much thicker viscosity and needs to be back rolled when applied. The pot life is shorter as well, requiring that it be applied to the garage floor within 30 – 40 minutes after mixing.
Clear Epoxy or Polyurethane Top Coats
To improve upon the single coat 100% solids epoxy, the next step is to add a coat or two of clear epoxy or polyurethane. This is referred to as the top coat. This clear coat system adds not only durability and thickness, but is also what gives your floor that deep gloss and shine.
If adding a topcoat, you also have the option of adding additional paint chips to your base coat. They can be sprinkled on sparingly or they can be applied to full refusal. Full refusal is the process of throwing on chips until they don’t stick anymore.
There are two reasons you may want to do a full refusal broadcast. The first is that it will give the floor some texture, increase thickness for durability, and help to produce an anti-slip surface. The second reason is pure cosmetics. With the multitude of different colored chip combinations to choose from, you can give your garage floor any custom look that you like.
Best Garage Floor Epoxy Coating System
The best coating that you can apply to your garage floor will be a premium multi-coat epoxy system. This will consist of a primer coat, 100% solids basecoat, acrylic colored paint chips if you desire, and one or two topcoats of clear epoxy or polyurethane. It’s not uncommon for such a floor to be between 30 and 40 mils in thickness. These type of floor systems can last 15-20 years or more.
Any premium epoxy system will involve a primer. Most primers will be anywhere from 50% to 70% solids content which will make for a thinner coat and consistency. There are many reasons for using a primer. The thinner consistency allows for the epoxy to seep deeper into the pores of the concrete to create a better bond. It also creates better adhesion for your basecoat and helps to prevent pinholes and bubbles which are caused from out gassing of the concrete.
Though this epoxy system is the most expensive of garage flooring options, this floor coating will give you the best return for your dollar. Cost varies depending on the size of your garage. Expect a minimum cost of $850 in materials for an epoxy primer, color base coat, acrylic color flakes, and clear top coat for an average sized 2-car garage if installing it yourself. Garage flooring contractors start around $4.50 a square foot for a similar system and go up in price from there.
Final notes
If you are going to apply an epoxy coating yourself you can create any one of the above combinations. Just remember when looking at different brands, compare both the coverage rate and solids content along with the price. If product A covers 250 square feet per container and product B covers 300 square feet per container, you are much better off going with product B if you have a 540 square foot garage. Do not attempt to stretch it out or you are destined to receive poor results.
Another factor to consider is the supplies that come with these kits. Some brands include rollers, mixing paddles, spiked shoes, paint brushes and other supplies in their price. Lastly is checking to see if they offer technical support. If this is your first time at applying a good quality epoxy and you want to make sure all your questions are answered, a manufacturer with good customer service is worth every penny.
If you are looking into hiring a contractor to install an epoxy coating for your garage floor, make sure to ask how many coats they use and what each coat does. Many times flooring contractors will substitute lessor quality epoxy or less coats in order to compete in price.
So remember when choosing the best epoxy coating for your garage floor and budget is to make sure you have enough to cover your floor. Multiple coats will increase the wear and durability of the floor and always go with a higher solids content if you can afford it. The dollar cost average over time for the floor is much better if you do. And finally, if applying the floor coating yourself, choose an epoxy manufacturer with good customer service to insure a good experience and a quality floor.
Chuck says
I am looking to strip the old epoxy and sealer of my garage floor. First, what is the best product out there to remove the existing sealer/epoxy off of the floor?
Shea says
Hello Chuck. The best way to remove an epoxy coating is by grinding. There isn’t too much to choose from in terms of stripping epoxy chemically. The stuff that is available is expensive and high in VOC’s.
Al johnston says
Hi. As a painting contractor i have a job at an airplane hangar to paint the floor. How or where can i purchase at a contractor rate these premium multicoat epoxy finishes?
Shea says
Hello Al. We recommend contacting floor coating vendors that deal with commercial quality products. Many of these vendors sell product to contractors and offer discounted rates for large jobs. Shipping is usually free as well. A few that come to mind are Legacy Industrial, ArmorPoxy, and GarageCoating.com. Sherwin Williams is another, but you would want their product that is only available to contractors, not the residential product that they sell.
Paul parkins says
I am very happy with Sherwin Williams H & C tile clad epoxy… It’s High Solids. I’ve done about 11 garages in the previous year, all look great.
Paul parkins says
What product would you recommend for an apt complex that is fast drying. It’s an occupied complex.?
Shea says
You will want to use a polyurea or polyaspartic coating Paul. This article explains how they work.
Bill says
Hi Shea: stained my garage floor a while back. White substance comes to surface, bubbles and staine chips off. I know what the problem is, but not sure how to fix it. Could you advise. Thank you
BW
Shea says
Hello Bill. Did you leave the concrete bare after you stained it or did you seal it afterwards with a topical film forming sealer to make the color pop? If so, what did you use?
Dave B says
Paint vs epoxy? We are looking to refinish our garage floor as an office space with a lot of foot traffic. Looking to install as quickly as possible. Temperatures will definitely be below curing temperatures, is there a paint or epoxy that adheres better in cold weather? Any recommendations?
Shea says
If you want a long wearing product Dave that can cure in much lower temps, we would recommend a polyurea coating. Nohr-S by Legacy Industrial is a good example. ArmorPoxy, Garage Flooring LLC, and GarageCoatings.com carry similar product as well. They are 1-part products that are comparable to epoxy, easy to apply, and cure quickly.
R.Spratt says
I am buying a new house and would like to apply a epoxy product with color that is fairly DIY friendly. What are your recommendations? The garage is approximately 500 sq. Feet.
Shea says
There are many grades of epoxy and epoxy systems. How do plan on using your garage? Do just plan on parking your car or will it be used for other projects as well? Do want something simple that will last 4 or 5 years or something more tough that will last 10 to 15 years or more?
Hongda says
Hello. Thx for the explanation. I am struggling between legacy industry metallic epoxy kit and RustOlum metallic rock solid kit. For legacy kit, it include primer and top coat. For RustOlum, I will add additional clear top coat. The cost will be roughly the same. Which one should I pick? Appreciate for your help.
Shea says
Hello Hongda. There is a vast difference between these two systems. The Legacy Industrial system is a true commercial grade product that is three times as durable as the RockSolid system and three times as thick. The RockSolid system, however, is by far the easiest to apply and the look is very consistent from one floor to the next. The outcome or look of the Legacy Industrial system is a true metallic system in that no two floor coatings ever look alike. The process of swirling with the rollers and applying acetone to the epoxy after it is applied creates a variety of different patterns and hues that can be absolutely stunning. Our suggestion is to call Legacy Industrial first to go over the application process to make sure it is something you are comfortable doing before you make any decisions.
Gary says
We are considering a contractor for our garage floor for epoxy coating. The option is for an acrylic topcoat (2 coat system) or a urethane topcoat ( decorative flake blend and premium thick mil system). Which is the better choice? Both options are quite costly and we want to make sure we are choosing the best option for endurance. If either option will only last 10-15 years, is it with the $4-5 thousand price tag?
Shea says
How many square feet are you coating Gary? In terms of the top coat, a polyurethane (urethane) coating is going to be much more durable than acrylic. To be honest, we tend to question contractors that even offer an acrylic topcoat. It’s way to keep costs down, but the performance is very good. For some pointers, we suggest you read this article about how to choose a floor coating contractor.
Gary says
Total of 450 square feet.
Shea says
The average price range per square foot for a professionally installed multiple coat epoxy system is generally in the $4-$5 range Gary. It all depends on materials and competition for the area you live in. That should put you somewhere around $1600-$2000 total, not $4000. The prices they are quoting you are way out of line.
Gerry McIntyre says
I am thinking of putting an epoxy system down on top of a vct tiled floor in a photo studio. What concerns are there to going on top of a tiled floor?
Shea says
Hello Gerry. There is always some risk involved when applying epoxy to VCT tile. We have an article about how it’s done here. It’s very important that the tiles are adhered well and that all the wax and sealants have been stripped from the surface before sanding. When choosing the epoxy materials, we recommend that you talk with the vendor first and tell them about your project.
Kirby says
I am looking for a strong, durable floor paint that can withstand heavy foot traffic areas, and can be painted over cement and linoleum. Can you advise?
Shea says
There isn’t a paint that you can apply over linoleum that won’t look like painted linoleum Kirby. If sanded and prepped properly, multiple coats of a high solids epoxy coating will hide the surface texture of linoleum in most cases, but you need to check with the manufacturer for compatibility. Most coating are made to be applied to bare concrete. Your best bet is to remove the linoleum and prep the concrete underneath for a proper coating. Paint will last a few years while a high solids epoxy will last 10 years or more.
Seth says
What about a polyurea?
Shea says
Polyurea can be an excellent options. We talk about them here.
Helen Hope says
hi, I am looking for an epoxy floor paint for a hanger floor that is used for stripping aircraft. is there any product out there that will withstand a thickened paint stripper called SOCOSTRIP AN
Shea says
Hello Helen. We recommend contacting ArmorPoxy about your needs. They deal with floor coatings in the aircraft industry and can help you with your requirements.
shatru says
thq, for your support .
i applied Epoxy for my home by self(own). its looks good. But i used 70% of resin & hardener and also 60% of primer only.i have un- mixed resin , hardener and primer.
how i store in my home?.
what are the storing conditions for long time?
how long it can be safe?
is it same for all epoxy products?
is it same for all B category company products ?
Shea says
Hello Shatru. You can’t store epoxy for very long. Unopened shelf life is about year. Once it has been opened, it should be used within a few months. When you store coating, it should be in a spot that does not get hot.
Dave says
Hi Shea,
Thanks for the article… very informative. I’ve been researching for days yet I’m still not certain on which products/brands to explore. I have a bunk room basement floor that occasionally leaks when the water table rises (1-2 days every couple of years). Having just removed the carpet and pad I want to put down a sealing layer before installing carpet squares or gym type rubber flooring on top. For the sealing layer, I’m assuming I should use an epoxy layer (not sure whether you recommend epoxy paint or a heavier epoxy coating). I’d like something that is safe (low VOC and no/minimal off gassing) that will counter the hydrostatic pressure and keep most of the moister out. I’d like the DIY options. Can you point me at 2-3 solutions you would recommend? What is the minimum solids content you would look for in this type of application? Thanks!
Shea says
Hello Dave. Typically you would not use a coating for this situation. Moisture in concrete will cause coatings to delaminate. The reason is that coatings do not breathe. If water collects under the coating, it can cause the upper layer of cement to eventually break down. It essentially turns chalky and the coating peels right up. If hydrostatic pressure is introduced, it can actually cause a good coating to pop off, sometimes taking chunks of concrete with it. That is why it’s important to moisture test or check for signs of moisture before applying a coating. Now with that said, there are such things as moisture vapor barrier coatings. The concrete needs to be properly prepped for these. Grinding is the preferred method in order for these type of coatings to get good penetration. Most are 100% solids which means there are no VOC’s. This one here is an example. They are expensive though and they don’t have a high coverage rate – approximately 100-120 square feet per 1.5 gallons.
Another option is a penetrating sealer. These are very easy to apply, very cost effective, and low in VOC’s as well. Silane sealers and densifiers are the most common for your situation and are also used for basements. They allow the concrete to breathe which will allow vapor to escape and keep most moisture from the surface – providing there is not too much of it. There is never a guarantee of making concrete that suffers from moisture intrusion water proof, however. If you are interested in pursuing this route, we recommend contacting Concrete Sealers USA. They have great product with good customer tech support that can make a recommendation and answer your questions.
Levi says
Hi Shea,
great article. I’m looking at doing several different projects. One being a shop floor in which I’ll do primer, epoxy coating with metallic pigments, and a urethane topcoat (approximately 500 sq. ft). I also plan on doing some concrete/ wood inlay tables. How well do the epoxy floor coatings (like epoxytech or norklad 200) do over wood? Would I be able to use the same product for both applications?
Shea says
Hello Levi. You ask a good question. Epoxy floor coatings actually do fairly well with wood when it’s prepped correctly even though it’s not endorsed by many of the manufacturers. If you are looking to use a clear epoxy, then the floor coating options are not the best. The reason is that clear epoxy actually has a hazy, almost dirty tint to it. You don’t notice this on bare concrete or over a color base coat and chips, but when applied on a coffee table or bar top for example, you soon realize it’s not as clear as you would think. There are companies that manufacture “water clear” epoxy for such applications if that is what you are looking for. Liquid Glass Epoxy is an example. It’s formulated to go on very thick and provide an extremely clear look.
Bri says
I’m considering the epoxy option for a 2 car garage built in the early 1970’s. The floor is such that is not completely level; however it is significantly graded up. That is the entrance to the door and slab is well above the driveway itself (5-6 inch or so rise). When it rains there are two or three low spots on the single floor slab that pool rainwater running down the single 2 car door. Besides a better seal at the garage door threshold, what would be the recommended approach to address the problem? A floor leveler, building a berm; or is, if spots are not too low, it possible to apply 100% solid epoxy in stages building the floor coating up with it pitched back from the wall to the entrance? Also, what would the best way be to fill small areas of the surface that have chipped off (no more than 3″ inch or so in size 1/4″- depth chips). And lastly, besides requiring thorough cleaning, do old but not terribly bad oil stains in the floor create issues of concern? Thanks!
Shea says
Hello Bri. The best way to fill small holes and chips in the concrete is to use either an epoxy/sand slurry (our preference) or a polymer-modified concrete patch. We have more info on repairing pits and spalling here. The biggest concern with oil stains is whether or not they will repel water after the concrete has been properly prepped. Degrease them well. After you acid etch or grind the concrete in prep for the epoxy, place a few drops of water over the stains. If the concrete turns dark immediately and starts to absorb the water then you are good to go.
Regarding your water issue; if I understand you correctly, it sounds like water that runs down the garage door is finding its way onto the slab and seeking out the low spots. The problem with filling these spots is that the water that seeps in under the door has to go somewhere. If you level these spots out, then you will just move the water somewhere else. The key is to stop the water from coming in to begin with. Also, concrete garage floors are rarely level. There will always be a low spot or two somewhere. Using epoxy to level an area of the garage can be expensive. We have an article about fixing low spots here.
Gabe says
hi i have a concrete floor about a year old lan planing on grinding with a electric grinder at a local rental. (6 stone pads) i think that would be a etch. however afraid to use a two part no experience.
am thinking of a good single stage any good recommendations or should i try a two part I do spill some gas from tractors and don’t want hot tire marks any recommendations area about 680′ what abodes do you recommend.
thanks Gabe
Shea says
Hi Gabe. A 1-part epoxy paint will not stand up to gas, tractors, hot tire marks, and etc. It’s just a paint and not a coating. You need a much better product than that. If you are worried about applying it, we would highly suggest a single part moisture cured polyurea instead. These type of coating are extremely easy to apply and very durable. Nohr-S by Legacy Industrial or SPGX by ArmorPoxy are great examples. They will perform very well for you.
Tania says
I would like to make my garage look nicer. It will be used for parking my car and some simple storage. I want to paint the floor so that it looks good. Ideally I would like to be able to pick something up from Home Depot. What do you suggest I use? I have no experience with this at all.
Shea says
Hello Tania. Just so you are aware, home improvement centers do not sell high performance, commercial quality coatings. We have an article here that describes what to expect the type of product you can purchase there. If you want to purchase from them, we suggest the Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Professional garage floor coating. It is solvent based and not water based. It will go on thicker and last longer. If you can’t find it at Home Depot, you can always order here from Amazon.
Ronii Hope says
Coming to you from the great white north, our nations capital, Ottawa, Canada. Last winter we had over 100″ of snow, multiple days of freezing rain and it’s not uncommon to have a week or more straight of -40° temperatures. Needless to say, our garage floor is subjected to extreme weather. Hot days with high humidity in the summer also. We have a typical 2 car garage, about 450 square feet. The garage is heated. One side is used for the family car in the winter and the other side is a workshop. We keep the garage at about 35-45 when I’m not working in there so I’m constantly squeegeeing the melted salt/slush/water out the door. The floor is 15 years old and is in decent shape with some flaking near the doors but nothing a good grinding shouldn’t clean up. I do have a 6 foot pond (not very deep) that I need to fill and I’m considering trenching a floor drain before finishing the floor.
I’m looking for the best, long lasting (we call it our forever home for now) that I can do myself. I’m looking for something I can do once (and maybe top-coat every 15 years or so if necessary) and enjoy until I’m old and grey. I’m not in a rush, I just want it done right.
What specific products and brands do I need to get the job done? I’m hoping for a materials checklist.
Love your site! Thanks you,
Ron
Shea says
Hello Ron and thanks for the kudos. We are not familiar with what brands you have available in Canada, but we do know that many of the suppliers here in the states will ship to you. Shipping costs might be an issue, but it’s worth looking at. If the costs are not feasible, you can look for the equivalent in your area.
Grinding would be the preferred method of prepping your concrete for the best adhesion. If that cannot be done, then a good acid etch would work. Based on your goals, we would suggest a multi-coat system that would consist of an epoxy primer, a high solids epoxy base coat, optional color flakes, and a high performance polyurethane or polyurea clear coat. The epoxy primer is considered the ugly coat. It penetrates and bonds extremely well with the concrete. It will also prevent any issues of bubbles from out gassing when you apply the high solids epoxy coat. Polyurethane and polyurea are more abrasion resistant and more salt resistant than epoxy. It makes for a good top coat. We would suggest two coats of polyurethane since it goes on thinner than polyurea. If you go with a full color flake floor, then it would require 3 coats of polyurethane and two coats of polyurea. One of the advantages of a high performance clear top coat is that you can sand the surface years later after it has shown some wear and apply a new coat of clear to make the floor look brand new again.
A high solids epoxy (90-95%) performs just as well as a 100% solids epoxy, but it is easier to apply since you have a little more working time. If you have two people helping then a 100% solids can be applied without issue.
We have some great sponsors on our site that sell this type of system. We suggest you email them or give them a call and talk to them about your project. Some examples would be Garage Flooring LLC, Legacy Industrial, ArmorPoxy, EpoxyMaster, and GarageCoating.com. Most of them ship to Canada.
If looking for equivalent product in Canada, we suggest you read our article about technical data sheets to learn how to compare product and determine what you are actually purchasing.
Neal Roche Jr says
My name is Neal and I am trying to stop a brand new porch from any real damage. Unfortunately when the porch was laid they did not use any rebar on the cap and I have noticed too hairline cracks that run across front to back on the porch. What I’d like to do is put some kind of sealer that will soak into the cracks to help protect it from the cracks getting any wider. I am afraid that if too many Winters go by that water won’t get into those cracks freeze and make it worse. So I’m looking to seal it now with a sealer color is close to concrete as you can get and at least two coats of top sealer. When completed the surface has to feel like it has sand in it to make it non slippery. Is this something that can be done and should I use epoxy and if not what would you suggest?
Shea says
Hello Neal. You will need to use a crack repair product to seal the cracks. A topical concrete sealer will not work. Unfortunately crack repairs will stand out, some more than others. How wide are the cracks? Can stick a business card in them? Could you fill them with fine sand? Let us know and we will help you with a solution.
Mari says
I would like to do a small room in my basement—furnace/laundry room. It is not a high traffic area. I want it to last a long time. What would you recommend?
Shea says
Hello Mari. We would recommend Nohr-S by Legacy Industrial. It’s easy to apply and can be bought in quart sizes instead of gallon sizes if you are dealing with small square footage. It still requires that you acid etch or grind the concrete first before applications.
Greg Stowe says
Shea, Thank you for helping everyone by publishing the Q/As. I am purchasing a new home with a 400 sq ft garage. I weld as a hobby. With the welding and grinding will an epoxy floor hold up? Thank you.
Shea says
Hi Greg. The floor will hold up just fine if you take the proper precautions. If you are welding near the floor and not on a table, then you will want to throw down a welding blanket to protect the floor. Same with goes for grinding. Epoxy will get burn marks from anything hotter than 200 degrees.
John Albright says
Shea, great information but i am more confused than ever. I am building a new house with a 1100 square foot shop/garage. What would be the best, most durable floor coating to DIY? I like the idea of some flakes to make the floor finish look more even.
Thanks, John
Shea says
Hi John. One of the most durable floor coatings that you can do DIY would be a multi coat system consisting of an epoxy primer, a high solids (90-95%) base color coat, color flakes, and then one or two coats of a high performance polyurea or polyurethane clear coat. A high solids base coat of just under 100% provides almost the same protection as 100% solids and is easier to work with. A full color flake application provides even more durability, but it does require more clear coat since it is absorbed by the nooks and crannies in the flakes. Most vendors who specialize in concrete floor coatings offer such systems.
John Albright says
Shea,
Is the ArmorPoxy “Job on a pallet” a good choice with the Primer, ArmorClad epoxy and the 2-part military grade top-coat?
Thanks again,
John
Shea says
It’s very good quality product and a great choice, John. I suggest you give them a call a talk to them about your project before you place an order. They will answer any questions you have and provide any additional info based on your requirements.
Kyle says
At what temperature does your garage have to be in order to be done right?
Shea says
Hello Kyle. If you are doing epoxy most manufacturers require a minimum surface temp of 55 degrees from the time it is applied through the time it takes for it to cure. Some of the home improvement center epoxy kits require 60 degrees. Air temperature is not as important as surface temperature because the epoxy will take on the temperature at the surface. If it’s colder than the minimum, the epoxy will take longer to cure if it cures at all. This article here gives some tips about applying epoxy in cooler weather. If it’s too cold for epoxy, you can always look at a polyurea coating. They can be applied in cooler temps.