To our Reader’s: This post may contain affiliate links. If you use these links to make a purchase, we may earn a small commission. As an Amazon Associate, All Garage Floors earns from qualifying purchases. You can read our full disclaimer here.
When you start considering an epoxy coating for your garage floor, it doesn’t take long to realize that not all are created equal. You soon find that there is water based and solvent based epoxy. Some manufacturer’s state they offer only 100% solids epoxy. Some are much less expensive than others for the same volume of product. So how do you know what differences to look for when comparing garage floor epoxy?
Because of this, it’s important to learn the basic properties of epoxy floor coating products before you decide to apply a floor coating yourself or hire a garage floor company to do the job for you. This knowledge will help you greatly when making a decision about which product is best for you. So let’s take a look at each type of epoxy available to better understand what these differences are.
The use of carrier agents in epoxy
Water or solvents are typically used as a carrier agent for some epoxy resins and assist in the adhesion, ease of application, and self-leveling properties. They also help to insure a longer period for application, also known as the pot life. As soon as you mix the part-A resin with the part-B hardener, the clock starts ticking as the epoxy begins its curing process and must be applied to the floor before the pot life runs out.
Because of their ease of application, these types of epoxies are more user friendly and tend to be the more preferred solution for the DIY crowd. The average pot life is around 2 hours, which means you don’t have to rush to get it down on the floor, and it rolls on smoothly like paint.
There are some disadvantages to these however. Once applied to the floor, these carrier agents evaporate leaving only the epoxy. So what you end up with is a thinner floor coating than what was initially applied. This happens because the carrier agent in the epoxy is not part of the actual floor coating.
This is defined as the percentage in volume of solids in epoxy and is most noticeable in the difference between wet film thickness and dry film thickness. If an epoxy is labeled as 50% solids for example, it would have a wet film thickness of approximately 7 mils. Once the carrier agent evaporates, it will have a dry film thickness of 3 – 3.5 mils.
Water based vs solvent based epoxy
Solvent used to be the preferred carrier agent in epoxy coatings for a few reasons. It can be applied in cooler temperatures and higher humidity and it does a better job at tolerating petroleum contaminates in the concrete surface. It used to have a slightly glossier surface than water based epoxy and in some cases is a bit more durable than their water based counterpart.
The biggest problem with solvent based products however is the high VOC’s content (volatile organic compounds). It cannot be used indoors at all due to the fumes. When used in the garage, proper respirators must be worn during application and any open flames such as a water heater or furnace must be extinguished due to the high flammability.
Because of the high VOC’s, many states do not allow solvent based products unless they have a lower VOC content. This has resulted in some solvent based epoxy products not being as good as they used to be. Consequently, they are getting harder to find as the industry has started using them less due to the tougher state regulations.
Water based epoxy on the other hand has come a long way since the states started prohibiting products with high VOC’s and has now become the more prominent epoxy in use between the two. In fact, many have proved to be as durable as most solvent based products and some are capable of just as much shine. Additionally, they do not produce any of the fumes and odor that is associated with solvent based epoxy which makes them environmentally safe as well.
Some water based epoxies can be applied to concrete that is still damp and can actually make for a good sealer to help stop hydrostatic pressure from moisture vapor transmission. This is why most epoxy primers are water based.
100% solids epoxy
A 100% solids epoxy doesn’t have any water or solvents to evaporate. As a result, they provide for a much thicker dry film coating of approximately 10 mils or more depending on the manufacturer and how it is applied. There are no VOC’s to worry about, thus making them environmentally friendly, and the coating cures solely by chemical catalization.
They are commonly used for commercial applications and by many garage floor coating companies as well. 100% solids epoxy is more abrasion resistant, chemical resistant, and stain resistant than its water based counter parts. They work well as a color coat and medium to accept vinyl acrylic flakes and can last upwards of 20 years or more. This makes it the most durable of the garage floor epoxies by far.
100% solids epoxy can be more difficult to work with however do its thicker consistency and shorter pot life of only 30 – 40 minutes depending on temperature. They can be applied as a DIY application, but it’s important for the person applying them to be confident in his or her skills and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations closely in order to achieve a successful application.
Though more expensive, 100% solids are the most cost effective garage floor coatings when comparing thickness and durability. Most epoxy paint kits sold aftermarket at the big box stores are not much more than 50% solids. They are designed as a one coat application and end up being 3 mils thick. There is aftermarket, multi-coat, water based garage floor epoxy systems that do better, but they still don’t compare to a 100% solids epoxy system.
A word about Technical Data Sheets
When making epoxy comparisons, be sure to take a look at the technical data sheets (also known as TDS) for the product. You can request these from the store or find them online. These sheets outline the properties and ingredients of the product and will give you a better idea of how one product compares to the other.
Knowing the differences in epoxy coatings is an absolute must if you are going to hire a contractor to do your garage floor. That way you will know exactly what you are getting for your money. If you are going to tackle the job yourself, then you are already one step ahead of the game when it comes time to determining which product is best for you.
Hi Jeff,
Is it possible to use epoxy coating for concrete floor on an outside but covered porch? We have condensation issues on that floor when it gets really humid outside and what looks like just concrete paint has been chipping off. If we prep it properly and hire professionals to apply epoxy, do you think it would be ok outside (again, the porch is covered and screened). Thank you!
If the porch is complete shaded you can use epoxy Tatjana. However, a polyurea or polyaspartic coating would be better. These type of coatings are U.V. resistant and will not amber at all. Keep in mind the coating is not going to stop the condensation issues. This is happening because relatively warm moist air is contacting a relatively cool surface and condensing. The condensation will not cause the coating to deteriorate, however, like the paint did. It may be a good idea to apply some anti-slip into the last coat to provide grip when it is wet.
What brands do you recommend for a garage floor other than Rustolem ? Where woudl I get them?
Thanks
Matt
That’s a great question Matt. Most of the higher quality coatings are found online from concrete coating vendors. You will rarely find anything other than Rust-Oleum and the other brands of lower quality DIY kits from home improvement centers. Our sponsors are great examples of companies that sell great product. The other advantage is that many of these vendors have excellent customer service. EpoxyMaster, Garage Flooring LLC, Legacy Industrial, ArmorPoxy, and Garagecoating.com are great examples.
I want to put a 3d image under clear epoxy can you tell me please what kind of print is suitable – would a self adhesive vinyl print work.
Thanks
Rita
Hello Rita. FloorPix are the people you want to talk to. They specialize in images for floor coatings including epoxy.
Thank you so much x
You’re welcome.
We want to coat our unfinished basement floor to keep it cleaner and and a moisture barrier.. we don’t want to “finish” the basement but want to use it for a rec area and workout area as well as storage. We have a high water table and every now and then there has been moisture on the floor in certain areas — not enough for any mildew or to even rust on metal shelves, but the sump runs almost non-stop with the french drain. We recently made drainage changes in hopes of finding “the” solution. There are cracks in the concrete but I don’t notice any unevenness (the house was built in 1970). It is on septic.
Is there a favorable product in these circumstances? I was looking at the big box solutions before reading your site, and now I am wondering about the 100% solid epoxy’s (are there recommended ones with our situation?) Is there a way to tell how much “etching” is required (I am concerned with chemicals going down the septic) for prepping? I was hoping to have a simple “wash the floor and put down some epoxy paint” discovery… any ideas?
Thanks!
Hi Crimk. Actually, a high solids coating is the last thing you want to put down. Epoxy coatings and moisture do not play well together. The reason is that moisture vapor that collects under the coating will cause it to delaminate. That is why it is always recommended to do a moisture test first before applying epoxy in any environment where moisture is suspect. If you applied paint instead of epoxy, it will just bubble up everywhere. There are special moisture vapor barrier epoxy primers for such situations, but they require a moisture test first, they are expensive ($200 for 1.5 gals that covers 170 sq. ft.), and they require grinding of the concrete before application. Additionally, even if you didn’t have a moisture issue, epoxy will always require etching at the minimum in order to achieve the proper profile for it to penetrate and achieve a good mechanical bond with the concrete.
In terms of reducing your moisture issue, we recommend filling/repairing all your cracks and then apply a densifier. Densifiers are inexpensive and do a good job of reducing moisture intrusion. This review of a densifier explains how they work. After that, you may want to consider an interlocking tile system. These type of systems are easy to install, they allow your concrete to breathe and they allow air flow underneath so you do not develop mold or mildew.
I want to mix very fine sea shells (washed and dried) to form a smooth topping on the cement around my bath and the shower floor. Is this at all possible without the water damaging it. Will I be able to use either one of the products?
Hello Carol. It’s hard to say without knowing all the details about your floor. Doing something like that would require a water clear bar top type of epoxy and would also require gluing all the shells down first. You would also need a perimeter damn (either the wall, adjoining floor tile, shower pan, or etc. that would contain the epoxy. The epoxy would have to be poured a little thicker than your tallest shell.
We are looking to do our basement in epoxy… at least one room for sure. What do you suggest is the best route? I don’t want to spend hundreds on something that’s not going to hold up.
Hi Branda. The first thing you want to do is a moisture test. Basements tend to get damp floors and if yours does as well you will have issues with peeling. If your basement floor does not have moisture issues, then we would suggest a single-part polyurea coating. These are excellent for the price and fairly easy to install. They are solvent based so you will have some fumes, but they will dissipate fairly quickly as the coating cures. Remember that you will still need to etch the concrete or grind to install a coating.
I have a 1200 sq ft garage, and I’m looking for the best epoxy product that would give the best durability. Do all epoxy need to be acid eitched? I like the high gloss of the Rustoluem metallic, but worry that sooner than later I will have to repeat the process. Light mechanics will be performed in basically one area the other being used as a gym ( floor mats )
Thanks for your help.
Hi Karal. If you are looking for the best epoxy product that will provide the best durability you will not get it from a Rust-Oleum garage floor coating kit. What you need is commercial quality, high solids products that can be purchased from vendors that specialize in concrete floor coatings. For metallics it generally requires application of a dark colored epoxy primer coat followed up with the high solids metallic color coat. After that you need to apply a high performance clear coat. One thing to consider is that as nice as metallic epoxy looks, small little scratches stand out much, much more than traditional coatings due to the coloring and high gloss nature of the flooring. Pure Metallics is one example of a concrete coating vendor.
If you decide against a metallic coating, you can still go the traditional route of an epoxy primer, color coat, optional color flakes, and high performance clear coat for an extremely durable coating. If you are only going to be doing light mechanic work, then the new single-part polyurea coatings would perform very well for you also.
I got a decent price for RokRez 100% solid and just wondering if i can get more feedback about this product? Also got a price for PPG Pittguard, and wondering what i should use?
Hello Dan. If you are applying it to a concrete floor you will want to use the RokRez and not the PPG Pitt-Guard. The Pitt-Guard is for applications to rusty metal surfaces. The RokRez is 100% solids epoxy so it will go down approximately 10 mils thick which is good. We would recommend applying a high performance polyurethane or polyurea clear coat over the epoxy. Epoxy scratches much more easily than the clear and will keep it looking new longer.
Yes to concrete. Good to know, because the sales rep told me it is also for concrete. Thanks for the quick response.
You’re welcome, Dan. The PPG can be applied to concrete as the rep said, but we have found in our experience that dual purpose applications such as these don’t perform equal to the coatings that are designed specifically for concrete.
I used a water based epoxy coating about 20 years ago. All I had to do was power wash the floor clean and roll it out. This was a new unused garage floor at the time. I seem to recall putting on three coats because it was a very thin layer. I’m sure the old container said future coats could be added by just cleaning the floor again and painting over the existing layers. Everything I’ve been reading hear talks of having to etch the concrete in one way or another. Can you clarify on this.
Hello SF. From your description of the product and the concrete prep requirements, we seriously doubt it was a true epoxy coating. It sounds more like 1-part epoxy paint which is latex paint fortified with a little bit of epoxy. It doesn’t require a lot of concrete prep and it goes on thin. True epoxy is a 2-part coating that requires mixing of two components. You have a limited time to apply it and it goes on much thicker than paint. This article explains some of the differences.
Concrete prep for coatings requires etching at a minimum regardless of whether or not the concrete is new or not. In fact, newer concrete typically requires it even more since the troweling process tends to close up more pores. Epoxy, as well as other coatings, require that these pores be opened up to facilitate the penetration of the thicker coatings.
Hello Shea,
Is there such thing as a zero VOC epoxy paint that we could use on old (15 years) residential floor tile? We would like to use in all rooms including kitchen and bathrooms. If yes, would sheen matter? High gloss verses matte?
Thank you advance.
Hello Kenny. Just to be clear epoxy is not paint. This article will explain the differences. 100% solids epoxy has no VOC’s. However, it cannot be applied over tile. It will not adhere for a variety of reasons, the biggest being that tile is not porous like concrete is. Also, the epoxy will not smooth out and level the surface if that is what you were hoping for.
I have a patio that I applied 2 coats of Rust-Oleum to, plus a clear coat to. Over time it has become blotchy. The patio has solar screens, but I live in the Southwest, so the sun is intense. Is there anything I can apply over the top. Or should I just consider putting down something like tile? It is still tolerable.
Hello Bob. Epoxy is not U.V. stable. It will amber and can even chalk if exposed to sunlight for too long. That would explain the current blotchy look. What you can do is apply a U.V. stable coating over the top. It would require roughing up the current coating with 120 grit sandpaper first in order to provide a mechanical grip for the new coating. We have an article here about how to do that. An example of a U.V. stable coating would be a tinted polyurethane or single-part polyurea. We did an article on a new coating by Rust Bullet called DuraGrade Concrete. It is a good example of a U.V. stable product that is also low in VOC’s with many color options available.
Shea,
I have an enclosed sun room that I am trying to solve a floor problem with. The concrete has been stained and poly coated but cracks developed and now I am looking for a way to cover and smooth all. Do you think that epoxy would be a way to accomplish this or do you have a better suggestion?
Hello Chuck. Are the cracks in the finish or the concrete? Also, what is the exact product that is on the concrete currently?
The cracks are in the concrete. I am not sure what is on the concrete it was a sealer that the contractor put on it after it was stained.
Thanks Chuck. In order to apply a coating that will create a nice even surface, you will need to properly repair the cracks first and most likely have to remove the existing clear coating. Since this area sees foot traffic only, we are guessing that it was an acrylic clear sealer that was used over the stain. You can test by applying a few ounces of MEK on the surface. Let it sit for a few minutes and then rub it hard with a rag. If the coating softens at all, then it’s acrylic. Proper colored coatings are not compatible with acrylic and is why it would have to be removed. The best method is via grinding, but you can chemically strip it as well. It can be messier to chemically strip than grinding.
Epoxy is not a good choice for a sun room. The reason is that epoxy is not U.V. stable and will amber (yellow tint). Rust Bullet has a new product called DuraGrade Concrete that we did an article on here. It would be a great candidate for a sun room. It’s available in multiple colors and is U.V. stable. It’s either that or a polyurea coating, but most of those are only available in traditional gray, tan, and sometimes white.
One other option would be the much less expensive solid acrylic stains. This is an example from Behr. These can be applied over acrylics and just require a light sanding first. Just keep in mind that these type of products do not hide irregularities in the surface very well at all. They also have a reputation for peeling up if not applied well.
Can two part epoxy or rocksolid kit work with heated floors?
Hello Rick. Yes, any type of coating will work fine with heated floors.
I have an older house 1955, and the garage floor is pitted in places. Should I do concrete repair patching prior to coating? Is there a coating that is self leveling that would fill the pitting? What do you recommend?
Hi Brian. If you don’t want the pitting to show then you will need to repair it first. We have an article here about what is required. Only 100% solids epoxy will self level, however, it would require a lot of epoxy which would be much more expensive than doing the repairs.
Hi.
Considering using an epoxy coating on basement floor in 90 year old house. The floor get wet during very heavy rain – maybe once a year – but drains well to sump pump.
I tried the moisture test and floor shows no poisture uner the plastice after 24 hours. WE’d just like to coat the floor with long lasting and attractive finish like the epoxy coatings – solid color with the chips. Floors is used as part shop and part kids playroom sometimes.
The floor is old but solid. Water that gets in during big rains leaks onto floor only at joints with concrete walls. When that happens we will just roll up the area rugs and let it drain to the sump.
Is this a floor to use epoxy on? Or is there a good durable chip-ffree paint that would work?
Hi John. Unfortunately, we would not recommend applying epoxy for your basement. If it gets so much water that it seeps in from the expansion joints at times, then we are fairly certain that during the wet months it is emitting moisture vapor through the slab. That is the time moisture tests should be done. There are special moisture vapor blocking epoxy primers that can be applied first, but they require an aggressive grind of the concrete and cost close to $200 for 1.5 gallons with a coverage rate of 100-125 square feet per gallon. You can try paint since it breathes, but you won’t really know if it will hold up during the wet months or not until you’ve given it a try. DryLok E1 is what we would recommend. It’s a 1-part epoxy paint which is essentially acrylic latex paint with a little bit of epoxy resin added to make it more durable. There is no such thing as chip free paint, but it’s better than standard paint.
Have you considered interlocking floor tiles? They actually have channels under the tile to allow for moisture vapor and drainage of water. They would be more expensive, but there is not concrete prep required and they are easy to install.
Thank you so much, Shea.
I would have never thought of Raised Interlocking floor tiles. That looks like a great solution.
Cheers,
John
Excellent! I’m glad we could help.
Can I mix a water based with a solvent based product they are both rustoleum?
Hi Justin. If you are asking if you can apply a water-based Rust-Oleum epoxy and then apply a solvent-based Rust-Oleum epoxy for a second coat (or vice versa), then the answer is yes. Rust-Oleum water-based and solvent-based coating are compatible when used in this manner. However, if you are asking if you can mix together in a bucket the components of a water-based product and solvent-based product, the answer would be no.
I’m looking to repaint my garage floors. I believe the existing finish is probably a 1 part epoxy type paint. For the most part – the existing paint surface is in decent condition with mostly excellent bonding to the underlying concrete. The old finish surface is also quite smooth. My question – could I consider using a 2 part epoxy application to go over the existing paint (without first removing the old paint)?
Hi Eric. If you are planning on using an inexpensive DIY 2-part epoxy garage floor kit (Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield for example), then you can get away with apply it to your existing paint. It will require roughing up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper first. However, if you want to put down a quality coating, then we highly recommend removing the paint via grinding. This will prep the bare concrete at the same time. You don’t want a high quality coating dependent upon paint for adhesion to concrete.
Howdy our new home is nearing completion we have a 22’x24′ garage 16′ front door and 8′ back door. Eventually I would like to have a durable very light or reflective surface and a somewhat slip resistant surface. VOC’s should pose no problem. I understand from some of the comments that new concrete might need some prep work before applying any coatings. Would it behoove us to simply use tiles for a while and let the concrete age some? I have not applied any coatings before. Should I experiment with a box store kit on a patio or covered deck first? Lots of questions and thanks in advance for any advice. Jim
Hi Jim. Typical 4″ thick garage floor slabs require a minimum of 30 days before you can apply a coating. Unless the slab was poured just before move in, you should be well past the 30 day waiting period. Yes, new concrete as well as old needs proper prep. This article here explains why. Based on your stated requirements, we would recommend a single-part polyurea coating system. These type of coatings are actually easier to apply than the home improvement store DIY epoxy kits. Just an FYI regarding a patio, epoxy should never be used outside or in areas where it will get direct sunlight. This article here explains why. Feel free to let us know if you have any questions.
Hello, What are the issues with doing one side of the garage at a time. I don’t have anywhere to store everything in the garage while the products dries.
Hi Brian. If you have contraction joints on the slab to act as a natural border, then it can be done with the proper steps and it will look like it was done all at the same time. However, if you don’t any contraction joints to act as natural border then you have an issue. Coatings do not blend together like paint does on a wall. The roller overlap is very obvious. Even if you run a nice taped line, the taped line sticks out like a sore thumb. In addition, because coatings are much thicker than paint it makes the overlap line more obvious.