Learning how to repair the concrete for your garage floor isn’t as intimidating as it sounds. You may be surprised to learn that many repairs can easily be done by yourself, and for less expense than you think. Typically, three types of repairs are most common for garage floors. These are surface cracks, pitting or spalling, and chips or divots.
If you are applying paint or an epoxy coating system, you will want to ensure your garage floor is repaired properly to make it as blemish-free as possible. This is important if you don’t want cracks or other imperfections to show through.
If you plan on sealing your garage floor, it’s important that you use the correct concrete repair products to prevent moisture intrusion.
Lastly, proper repairs can stop a continuing problem with pitting and spalling. This type of damage can be just as easy to repair as most cracks. It just takes a little more work. So, let’s discuss how to repair concrete cracks and other damage. We will also recommend the proper materials to use and where to purchase them.
Why do garage floors crack?
Garage floors crack – period. Concrete is not a ductile material, meaning that it neither stretches nor bends without breaking. However, it does contract and expand with temperature, and as a result, it can crack.
Most garage floors have contraction joints in the slab. These typically are the deep V-shaped troweled grooves or saw-cut joints that you see in the concrete. They appear to divide a typical two-car garage into four separate sections.
These grooves or cuts create a weakened line in the concrete. This line of less resistance encourages cracks to follow along the bottom of the groove or cut instead of wandering across the surface. Though contraction joints work well, the slab can still encounter cracks in other parts of the concrete. This can be due to the settling of the earth underneath the slab, curing issues, or other variables beyond your control.
The good news is that the majority of cracks are cosmetic and not structural. This means that they can be repaired to accept almost any garage flooring.
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How To Repair Cracks in Your Garage Floor
There are a few steps involved when making crack repairs to concrete. They are as follows:
- Chase the crack to remove sharp edges and any loose or weak material
- Clean the inside of the crack with a wire brush if not using a crack-chasing wheel
- Remove all dust and debris with a shop vac
- Apply the recommended crack repair material
- Sand or grind flush once cured
The first thing you need to do when making a crack repair is to chase the crack. This is the process of breaking away or removing any loose or sharp edges of concrete within the crack.
The repair is only as strong as the material it adheres to. If the concrete edge is sharp or weak, it can break under pressure and require further repair.
Crack chasing can be performed with a hammer and cold chisel. If you don’t have a cold chisel, you can easily find them at your local home improvement center or purchase them online here from Amazon. We prefer the ones with the handguard.
Chase the crack by placing your cold chisel at an angle that runs in line with the crack. Firmly tap it with a large hammer or small handheld sledgehammer.
The chisel will break away any loose material as you go. We recommend wearing safety glasses to protect your eyes. Continue in this fashion until you have chased the entire crack.
Use a shop vac to clean out the loose debris and then scrub the crack with a wire brush. This will remove any weak laitance and prep the surface for the repair material. Vacuum out the crack again and you are ready to apply your repair.
Our favorite process that works well for chasing cracks is to use a small 4″ angle grinder with a crack-chasing masonry wheel. The wheel is tapered to form a nice clean groove in the concrete. You can see how it works in the video below.
This is by far the most efficient method for chasing cracks. It preps the concrete for repair better than any other tool we have used.
You can purchase 4″ angle grinders from Harbor Freight for less than $20. The crack-chasing wheel is little more expensive. You can find them here on Amazon.
Be sure to follow the directions carefully for the concrete repair product that you use. Try to calculate how much you will need before you make your purchase. You are better off having too much than not enough. You can always return unopened products.
When using a thicker 2-part epoxy or gel, work it well into the crack to push out any trapped air. Use a putty knife to scrape it somewhat smooth before the material begins to set up. Watch for any low spots that may need additional repair material.
If using the Simpson Strong-Tie or similar product for larger cracks, it works best to fill 3/4 of the crack with silica sand first. Apply the Simpson Strong-Tie over the sand up to the top of the concrete. Allow a couple of minutes for it to soak in and then apply it again to fill in the low spots.
Once you do that, apply more sand loosely over the repair and let it sit for 20 minutes. After it has sat, you can scrape off the top layer with a paint scraper or putty knife.
Once the repair has cured, grind it flush with the concrete to create a smooth transition. This will prevent most repairs from telegraphing through the coating and you will not see them.
Contrary to some information out there, you do not need to chisel cracks to form an inverted or backward-angled cut. This is only required for very large section repairs or replacement of concrete using new concrete or a cement-based patch.
Because concrete does not adhere well to previously cured concrete, the backward-angled cut helps to keep the material from lifting out. Epoxy, polyurethane, and polyurea crack repair products form a tenacious bond to properly prepared concrete and do not need an inverted cut to stay in place.
When repairing deep cracks, it’s best to fill the crack partway with silica sand. This will prevent the repair material from seeping down deep into the concrete and settling. It saves you from using excess material as well as creating low spots that need to be refilled.
Recommended Concrete Crack Repair Materials
When making concrete crack repairs, you should always use an epoxy or polyurea crack repair product that is sandable. They will cure and harden to a strength greater than concrete.
In addition, the bond is stronger and they will prevent water intrusion. Once cured, you can grind or sand the repairs flush with the concrete to accept paint or an epoxy coating.
One example of an epoxy-based crack repair product that we recommend is the Simpson Strong-Tie Crack-Pak at Amazon.
It comes in a 9 oz. cartridge that requires a caulking gun to apply it. The part-A and part-B contents of the epoxy are separated inside the container. The cartridge uses a self-mixing tip that eliminates the step of mixing the 2-parts separately. This makes the application easy.
Price Simpson Strong-Tie Crack-Pak Here
In addition, Simpson Strong-Tie flows very easily. It’s a great choice for repairing spider cracks and cracks less than 1/8″ wide.
For deep cracks or cracks larger than 1/8″ wide, you will want to partially fill the crack with clean play sand or silica sand first when using this product. This will slow the flow of epoxy from going deep into the crack to prevent using more epoxy than necessary.
Another excellent crack repair product that we have experience with is PC-Concrete Epoxy Crack Repair at Amazon.
It is a thicker flowing epoxy that requires using a putty knife to work into the crack. Thicker-flowing products like this work well for larger cracks.
Price PC-Concrete Epoxy Crack Repair Here
In addition, PC-Concrete works well for filling small holes, divots, and chips in the concrete. Like other cartridge epoxy repair products, it comes with a self-mixing tip.
What we like about PC-Concrete is that it fully cures in only 4 hours. This means that you can repair your cracks and grind them flush the same day.
A third product that we can recommend is Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Concrete Patch. This is a thick 2-part epoxy that requires you to mix the separate Part-A and Part-B materials first. A putty knife works best for application.
When mixing the two components, be careful not to mix too much at any one time. The epoxy does set fairly quickly and you will have a limited time to use it. If all of your repairs are not ready to be filled, you will run out of working time and the epoxy will become stiff and unworkable.
You can generally find it at most home improvement centers or you can purchase it here at Amazon.
If you are repairing numerous cracks that are 1/4″ wide or larger, then your best bet would be a 100% solids epoxy gel crack filler. These are available in 1-gallon kits.
This type of product is an excellent choice for deeper and larger width cracks that span a long length of the garage floor. It’s also a better value if you need to repair numerous cracks. Our favorite is TL-821 by Garage Flooring LLC.
Price TL-821 Gel Epoxy Repair Here
TL-821 is a fast-setting epoxy gel. The key is to make sure that your repair areas are ready. Mix only that which can you use in less than 10 minutes.
It also works well for filling divots, chips, and other imperfections. This includes small pitted areas of concrete or even spalling.
One of the favorites that we reviewed is Xtreme Set 100 by Legacy Industrial. This is a fast-setting 2-part polyurea. It requires that you fill the cracks with sand to the surface and then pour the polyurea filler into the sand.
This was the fastest and easiest of crack and concrete repair products we have used to date. However, it is one of the more expensive as well. You can purchase Xtreme Set 100 here from Legacy Industrial.
We did a complete review of Xtreme Set 100 which you can read here.
Most of the above products mentioned can’t be found at a home improvement center. They are much more prevalent in the professional floor coating industry. As a result, they are commonly purchased online.
Repair Materials Not To Use
Do not use latex-based concrete crack fillers or self-leveling sealants. This is what most home improvement centers carry since they are cheap and easy to use.
The reason not to use them is that they are not sandable, most will not accept paint, and some will shrink over time and pull away from the concrete.
More importantly, they do not repair the crack and make it stronger. They just seal the crack. If you are just looking for a cheap and easy solution to sealing a crack, then they will work.
Do not use cement for repairs or cracks. Cement bonds poorly to cured concrete and will delaminate and lift out of the crack. It also tends to crumble over time within the crack repair.
Repairing Spalled and Pitted Garage Floors
Pitting of a garage floor can be caused by improper finishing of the concrete or a bad mix. Sometimes it is most notable at the edges of contraction joints or where the concrete might meet up with another slab.
However, spalling is generally caused by freeze-thaw cycles in colder climates. It is aggravated even more by deicing salts. Pitting can be a result of this as well.
During cold weather, water can migrate into the surface of the concrete and freeze. The expansion of the water causes microscopic damage to the concrete and after a few years of this, it begins to break up into small dusty pieces and flake or chip away.
For repair of the floor, you will want to use an epoxy sand slurry or a polymer-modified cement patching mix. Which type you use depends on the extent of the repair. It requires a little more effort than repairing a crack, but it’s not that hard to do.
After the surface has been prepared properly, apply the mix over the pitted areas using a trowel. Some mixes are self-leveling and can be applied with a metal squeegee.
Be sure to feather in smoothly and let it cure according to the instructions. You may need an additional application to fill in any small divots or low spots you missed.
You should end up with a nicely repaired surface that won’t be noticeable once it is painted or epoxied over. We cover this procedure in more detail, including recommended materials, in our article on how to repair spalled or pitted concrete.
There is one thing to be aware of if you are planning on applying a clear coat sealer to your concrete. Any patchwork that you have done will be enhanced by the sealer. However, if you are applying a colored paint or colored epoxy sealer, then you should have the appearance of a smooth concrete slab free of blemishes.
Low Spots and Other Repair Issues
Concrete garage floors are rarely flat. It’s not unusual when cleaning the floor to have small puddles here and there. However, if you have deep low spots on your slab that collect a lot of water, then there are some repair options available.
You can use a self-leveling polymer-modified topping or epoxy slurry to fill in those low spots. Don’t fill in any of your contraction joints. If you do, you can scrape it out later as it starts to harden. Just make sure the product you use is designed for outdoor use.
We suggest reading our article on how to repair low spots on a garage floor.
Sunken slabs are another issue. Unfortunately, these are not a quick fix and can be costly to repair. They can be caused by severe settling of the soil, poorly reinforced slabs, or something worse such as underground water problems.
Mudjacking or polyurethane expanding foam injection are some of the repair options. Sometimes the only alternative is to tear out the old slab, address any soil compaction requirements, and pour new concrete. We recommend calling in a concrete repair expert to assess issues with a sunken slab.
Final Tips
The key to long-lasting and strong garage floor repairs is proper concrete preparation and the use of the correct concrete repair material.
Pay close attention to the instructions. If you have questions about how the repair material should be used, contact the manufacturer. Many have toll-free numbers to talk with tech or customer service to answer questions.
Also, make sure to properly calculate how much material you need. There is nothing more frustrating than running short. It wastes time and can delay your project.
If you can patch a wall before painting, then you have the skills to do the same for your garage floor. You will avoid the more expensive option of having someone do it for you. Plus, you will have a repair that will last years if not the lifetime of the concrete.
John V says
awesome site! helping so many people! my turn? got three approx. “1-2″ x 3″ depressions left in concrete floor by visiting granddaughter’s Prius. (grrr! save gas; ruin floors?) maybe 1/4″ to 3/8” deep. any suggestions on best product to fill? our cars’ larger wheelbase so won’t be sitting on those depressions, just driving over. thank you very much.
Shea says
Hello John. We have an article here that discusses materials to use for pitting, spalling, depressions, etc. However, something does not add up. Why would a Prius being creating this problem and your other vehicles are not? Concrete is extremely hard and cars don’t wear holes or depressions into.
John Vaeth says
thanx for your response. same question bugging me. garage floor is 17 years old. never had an issue like this. i have an LS400; my wife has an RX350. neither one lightweight. our granddaughter drove up to our VA house from GA – maybe 10 hours – was here for two months while we were still in St Pete. presuming hot tires although last three hours were in dark and so i presume cooler tires. and, why not four? beats me. sure want to fix it. thanks again for great website and help. you’re my new favorite after amazon. regards
Annette Sietsema says
My husband has enclosed a room in the back of our pole barn that will be temperature controlled and we’ll be coating the floor with Rocksolid polycuramine.
There was an approximate 1″x24″ contraction joint he filled with cement, to get a smooth look to the finished floor.
After reading the article I’m thinking it was the wrong product to use and I’d appreciate any advice.
If it is acceptable I have a few questions:
1) Does such a small area need to cure the full 30 days?
2) After drying for several days the surface is easily roughed up with the bottom of my sandal and gets dusty. Will the epoxy potentially not adhere properly and we should grind it? We currently plan to etch the surface with what’s included in the kit.
Shea says
Hi Annette. You are correct, using concrete to fill the joint is incorrect for a couple of reasons. First, fresh concrete does not adhere well to older concrete and is known for delaminating, cracking, and popping out. Second, concrete does not flex. That is why the joint was created in the first place. So if you coat over the joint, what’s going to happen is the concrete underneath is going to crack through the coating or worse, pop out and take the coating with it.
A small area that is only 1″ deep does not need the 30 days. 5-7 would be sufficient. The reason the concrete is dusting is because too much water was used on the surface or even in the mix. A common mistake people make is to add a little bit of water when troweling to make it look smooth. This weakens the surface layer and the small fines in the concrete rises to the surface. This surface is a weak layer and will continue to dust and deteriorate until the coating will no longer be adhered over the joint.
We would recommend that you grind the concrete out and apply the appropriate product. We have an article about filling contraction joints here.
GWK says
I need to fill the gap between my concrete floor and the cinderblock wall. I plan to use EpoxyShield Professional to finish my garage floor.
What product should i use to fill that gap around my garage floor?
Shea says
Hello GWK. That gap between the wall and slab is an expansion joint. It’s there to allow movement for when the slab expands and contracts. As a result, you will want to fill the joint with a flexible sealer AFTER you finish the epoxy coating. A self-leveling polyurethane sealant such as SikaFlex is a good example. If the joint is deep, we recommend stuffing the joint with backer rod first so that it’s approximately 3/8″-1/2″ lower from the surface. This will prevent the sealant from sagging as it cures as well as save you $$ in material.
Dave M says
Your articles helped me a lot. One question. In the section on crack repair, it says “Once the repair has cured, grind it flush with the concrete to create a smooth transition.” What kind of grinding wheel to you recommend for this?
Shea says
Hi Dave. You ask a great question. We discuss this in our grinding article, but we should probably list it here as well. You can pick up a 4.5″ angle grinder from Harbor Freight for less than $20. You can then get the proper turbo cup grinding wheel from Amazon for even less. Be sure to wear an N95 mask or respirator. Grinding kicks up a lot of concrete dust.
Tony says
Hey Shea,
I’m about to tackle the garage and basement of my house.
I was previously sold on polyurea, but am now considering doing an acid stain with a clear polyurea top coat.
Will any of these products be a better or worse option if I’m going to stain the concrete after?
Thanks
Shea says
Hi Tony. I was a bit confused about the question of staining the concrete after, but I believe I understand what you mean. Any crack repairs made to the concrete will not accept a stain or dye. Other repairs that may use a polymer-modified concrete repair product will accept a stain, but it will look different than the rest of the concrete. Some people do not like the repairs standing out like that, while others think it adds character to the floor. Neither of the appropriate repair products is really going to be better or worse in regards to that.
Clint Burnett says
I have a saw cut or control joint in my garage floor that has opened up to approximately 1″ wide over the years. It has not moved in the past 3 – 5 years. I would like to fill this in as I move a engine hoist and other automotive equipment across the floor. What would be a good product to use? The gap measures 1″ wide x 3.5″ deep x 22′ long.
Shea says
Hello Clint. Saw cuts and contraction (control) joints do not open up like that. Are you sure it’s not an expansion joint? This article here discusses the differences.
Clint Burnett says
Thanks for the reply Shea. I understand the difference between the two and it is the saw cut that opened up. It has since been stabilized but now I’m left with the 1″ gap that I need to fill. Any recommendations? Thanks.
Shea says
Hi Clint. Because the gap is large, you will need a product that cures hard and still has slight flex. A standard self-leveling joint filler will be too soft for the smaller casters on engine hoists, toolboxes, jacks, etc. to roll over the joint without sinking when under weight and getting caught in the joint. We recommend using one of the contraction joint fillers we mention in the previously linked article. Our favorite is Xtreme-Set 100. Fill the joint with clean sand and then apply the Xtreme-Set 100 polyurea. With a joint that wide, it will most likely require a second application of polyurea 10 minutes later as it is absorbed by the sand. After the second application, you can grind it flush with the joint after 20 minutes or so.
Paul Lenz says
First off, great article! Second, I’m sold on the Xtreme-Set 100 and plan on getting a gallon of it to seal up the cracks in my garage and in my basement. I like that it has a very low viscosity and will seep into some of the hairline cracks that have just started and will seal them up. My question is, I have some 50 year old concrete in my garage that luckily is all level, but has some poor finishing in spots and many cracks. In a few areas, two parallel cracks that are anywhere from 2-4 inches wide have caused pieces of concrete to come loose. Once I remove these, there will be a 2-4 inch wide crack that is anywhere from 1 to almost 3 inches deep at the very bottom of the concrete piece that is removed. Is silica sand with the Xtreme-Set 100 good enough to fill this large gouge, or do I need to use something designed for a larger concrete patch? Thanks.
Shea says
Hi Paul. No, you don’t want to use Xtreme-Set 100 for that. It would be far too costly due to the amount of polyurea that would be required. Instead, we recommend using a polymer-modified concrete repair mortar mix. They bond well with the concrete and typically will achieve compressive strengths stronger than the original concrete. Here is an example from Quikrete. Ardex makes excellent repair mortars, but it generally requires giving them a call to find a dealer near you. Here is an example of a product we would recommend.
Matt Ellis says
Hi. Great site!
Quick question, I am using Rustoleums patch/repair epoxy and I have sanded it down smooth enough that I am not worried about the patch telegraphing through, however, there is a thin layer of the product on both sides of the previous crack (2-3 inches on each side) that was some of the slop from when filled it and that I can’t get with a sander. If I cover it with rock solid epoxy floor coverings, will the floor covering adhere properly to the patch and repair layer? I am worried that it will not adhere properly and start to flake off.
Shea says
Hi Matt. If it’s a thin smooth layer, just rough up the surface with sandpaper by hand. That’s all you need for the RockSolid to adhere.
Sharon E Osterby says
Should you repair cracks in the contraction lines of your garage floor?
Shea says
Hi Sharon. No, there is no need to do that. Just let the coating run into the joint and run a brush through it if necessary.
Janelle says
I need advice on 3 things before proceeding with my floor coating. I have a 1 car garage (barely), about 30 months old, no car has ever been inside. I’m a concrete amateur for sure, reading everything I can about this process. I’m determined not to spend what I’ve been quoted for the pros to do it. I’m a DIYer, and like to figure things out.
1) I STILL don’t understand what to do with the crack around the entire perimeter of the garage. I don’t know the correct terms, but the garage has about 4 inches on vertical concrete on each side – I’m assuming that’s the foundation? Anyway, is that the crack that I should clean, let the epoxy run into, and caulk afterwards? If so, what product do I use?
2) That vertical part of the concrete has a lot of concrete splatter that I’ve been chiseling off. But there are plenty of random holes in it, some the size of a pencil eraser and deep appearing. If I want to coat those vertical areas with epoxy and flakes, do I need to repair the surface? It’s also hard to maneuver with an angle grinder – how would I prep it before proceeding with epoxy?
3) I have no floor cracks, but some shallow rough areas that I wouldn’t even call chips in the concrete. It’s just not flat like the surrounding concrete. What do I do with that?
Thanks for your patience.
Shea Walker says
Hi Janelle. Good for you! There is quite a bit you can accomplish on your own. This includes applying a good quality coating depending on your budget. I will answer your questions by the number.
1) The “crack” around the perimeter isn’t an actual crack. It’s called an expansion joint. The garage slab is typically placed separate from the foundation for the home. This joint protects the slab and the foundation from damage when the concrete expands and contracts with temperature. Yes, let epoxy on the edge run into the joint to cover the rounded edge. After the coating has cured, you can fill the joint with a self-leveling polyurethane sealant such as SikaFlex or similar. We have an article the explains the differences between expansion joints and contractions joints, including what type of materials should be used to fill them.
2) This is called a stem wall. It looks rough because this is where the concrete came up against the wood forms when the concrete foundation was placed. The holes are air pockets that formed up against the board. There is no need to grind or spend a lot of time prepping the surface. It’s rough enough that the coating will adhere. Plus, you won’t be walking or driving on it (hopefully) so optimum adhesion is not necessary. Drag a chisel or back of a hammer across the surface to remove any loose or weak concrete. There shouldn’t be much. Sometimes it needs to washed down to remove old dust and debris that has collected in the holes. Use a brush to apply the coating. Just don’t go too thick or it will slump.
3) It’s very rare for the concrete in a garage to be evenly flat across the surface. There will always be a few shallow spots here and there. If you are grinding or have a small grinder available, grind those areas to remove the roughness.
Lastly, if you want a coating that will last years, do not apply a home improvement store product such as EpoxyShield or RockSolid. Use a quality, higher solids epoxy or polyurea system. We can point you in the right direction if you haven’t decided on what to use yet.
Janelle says
Outstanding, thank you!
The gap between the drywall and the stem wall had orange foam (fire block I’m assuming) spilling out that I shaved to make it flush, but it is definitely unsightly. The top of one stem wall is visible, about an inch wide. It was easy to shave the foam there, but the top of the wall is exposed and ragged in places. I thought about a piece of PVC molding there, but I don’t think the ragged stem wall top will allow the molding to be flush. Any other ideas to hide the unsightly foam gap? The other wall has drywall hanging OVER the stem wall, so the solutions to conceal that gap are different. I was going to cover the gaps prior to using my epoxy system so bits of foam won’t fall during my application.
I have not decided on what to use yet. I keep looking at the primer-epoxy-full flake-polyaspartic top coat high solids kits, but am wondering if each component can be purchased separately to save costs. I haven’t found that combo yet. And many 1 car garage kits would make me nervous in terms of coverage, although my townhouse garage is only 218 sq ft, including the stem wall surfaces. All suggestions and thoughts are welcome. It’s one of those projects where it’s not easy to just start over if you screw it up on the first go, like painting!
Much appreciated!
Shea Walker says
Hi Janelle. Stem walls that are not consistent are typical of garages these days. The stem walls that stick out an inch or two tend to be outside walls. The ones where the drywall runs flush or overlaps tend to be interior walls, but not always. Some people use wood trim to cover the gaps, some use cove molding if the wall does not stick out, others just leave it as is. It requires being creative.
Polyaspartic coatings for DIY application are not the easiest to find. Many only have a 20 minute pot life and cure too fast for the inexperienced. Also, buying products separately for a full color flake application is more expensive. Garage Flooring LLC has a great 250 sq. ft. full flake epoxy system we can recommend. You can find it here. It uses two coats of polyurethane for the clear coat. Also, stem walls use much more material than the floor due to how rough they are. So we recommend increasing the square footage by 50%. When doing a full flake application on stem walls, we recommend mixing up a small batch of the required materials to do the stem walls first since they are time consuming. Once the flake is tossed on them, you can sweep up the flakes that have fallen to the floor and then begin the process of coating the floor. The clear coats can be applied to the stem walls and floor at the same time.
Janelle says
Shea, today I was looking at the stem wall more carefully, and some of those holes are nearly 2 inches long and half inch deep. I can envision wasting a lot of primer and epoxy in those holes from the nice Garage Flooring LLC kit, and being unable to get flake in them. Can I use something like a Rustoleum Concrete Patch and repair, or a Sikaflex ready mix concrete patch to decrease the surface area? I know those products are not similar in their make-up, but again, amateur concrete DIYer here! I haven’t seen this problem mentioned in the forum archives. My apologies for the questions, but I certainly can tell that planning and prep are not negotiable for this kind of project. Information out there is often contradictory or biased by capitalism – business is business, of course. I may have more questions as I stare at my garage floor over and over. Take care.
Shea Walker says
If it’s that rough, then use something like the Quickrete Quick Setting Cement or the Sikacyl Ready-Mix Concrete patch. These are polymer-modified cement repair products and can be troweled on fairly smooth. Just be sure to give them a couple days to cure and for the moisture to escape. The Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch Repair is a 2-part epoxy. It’s a great repair product for small pitting and cracks, but it’s more expensive for the amount you will need.