A garage floor sealer sounds simple enough to protect and seal the concrete in your garage or workshop. But what does a sealer do for the concrete and which type should you use? Which sealer is best for your requirements and budget? Options include densifiers, siliconates, oil-repelling sealers, salt-repelling sealers, epoxy, polyurea, acrylics, and more. As you can see, it can become a bit overwhelming.
Don’t fret, it’s not as confusing as it may seem at first. Our goal is to explain the differences in sealers for a garage floor or workshop so that it’s much easier to understand. We will discuss how they work, how they are applied, and the benefits of each. This should help you determine what sealer will be best for your needs.
We include economical sealers that protect the bare concrete for a nice clean look, sealers for working garages and workshop floors, as well as decorative sealers and coatings. That’s right, garage floor coatings are sealers as well.
Penetrating Sealers VS Topical Sealers – What’s the Difference?
There are two distinct categories of garage floor sealers that determine performance, looks, and application requirements. They are penetrating sealers and topical sealers.
Though both types seal the concrete, they look and perform much differently from one another. With so many garage flooring options available, it’s important to get a basic understanding of each.
Penetrating Sealers
Penetrating sealers work by penetrating into the concrete upon application. They react with the minerals in the concrete to form a hard, gel-like molecular barrier in the subsurface. Otherwise known as non-film-forming sealers, they are breathable and do not form a coating on the concrete surface.
As a result, penetrating sealers do not change the look of bare concrete. And because they are non-film forming, they cannot be scratched if you drag a sharp object across the concrete surface. In addition, they will retain the same wet slip resistance of the current concrete surface.
Furthermore, penetrating sealers typically are the most economical sealing solution for a garage floor or workshop and one of the easiest of all garage flooring options to apply.
An important fact about penetrating sealers is that they are not waterproof as some people assume. Nor are they stainproof. This is due to the non-film-forming properties of the sealer.
Though they do a good job of repelling water and resisting automotive fluids, all liquids will eventually penetrate the concrete surface if allowed to sit long enough. How long they sit before penetration is determined by the type of sealer and the porosity of the concrete.
Lastly, liquids such as oil, automotive fluids, and other contaminants can stain if allowed to sit. How much they stain and how easily an oil stain cleans up are determined by the type of penetrating sealer applied and how long the oil or other contaminant was allowed to sit.
When it comes to stain resistance, the goal of a penetrating sealer is to provide enough time for spills and leaks to be cleaned up first before they have a chance to stain. This includes some of the newer oil-repelling sealers the industry has introduced to provide better stain resistance.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers / Coatings
Topical sealers adhere to the concrete surface with only slight penetration. Also known as film-forming sealers, they are more widely known as floor coatings or garage floor coatings. They form a protective layer that is typically non-breathable and can be impermeable depending on the coating used.
Many are 2-part resinous coatings that require mixing before application, though there are exceptions. They chemically cure and create a hard coating that is extremely durable. The thickness, abrasive properties, and chemical resistance of these coating sealers can vary depending on the type and quality of the coating that is used.
Paint and 1-part epoxy paint are not sealers or coatings. Don’t make this mistake! We discuss why here.
Most coatings are also considered decorative. Clear coatings will enhance the look of the garage floor surface. They tend to darken bare concrete, add character, and provide a matte to a glossy finish.
In addition, clear coating sealers are used to protect and highlight the colors of stained or dyed concrete. They make the colors pop with vibrancy and add shine.
Colored coatings completely change the look of the garage floor. Epoxy and polyurea garage floor coatings are great examples. You can opt for a solid color or add multi-colored acrylic flakes with a clear coat to create your own unique color palette.
Unlike penetrating sealers, topical sealers and coatings prevent the bare concrete from being stained by oils, automotive fluids, and chemicals. This is because the coating acts as a sacrificial barrier.
Furthermore, one large advantage of topical sealers over penetrating sealers is that the surface is very easy to keep clean.
Higher-performing coatings can also be extremely stain resistant. Oil, chemicals, salty road brines, and other fluids can sit for much longer periods. All that is required in most cases is wiping up the mess with a rag. A shot of Windex can remove any leftover film residue.
Lastly, many topical sealers and coatings will prevent the penetration of water and liquids into the concrete. This doesn’t necessarily make the entire garage floor waterproof. Exposed cracks and concrete joints can still allow water to seep into the concrete.
Now that we better understand the difference between penetrating garage floor sealers and topical garage floor sealers, let us discuss the various types available and what we can recommend.
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Recommended Penetrating Sealers for Garage Floors
There is a wide range of penetrating sealers for concrete to choose from. Therefore, it can easily become overwhelming if you don’t know what to look for.
There are silane concrete sealers, silicone sealers, siloxane sealers, siliconate sealers, densifiers, oleophobic concrete sealers, and more. Many are hybrids of each. Some are water-based, while others or solvent-based. Many do not work very well for a garage floor.
As a result, we will only discuss those penetrating sealers that we recommend and know to work best for a garage or workshop floor. In addition, we will discuss concrete prep that may be required and sealer application.
Siliconate Sealers
Siliconate sealers are a great choice for homeowners who just want good general protection of their bare concrete at a minimal cost with ease of application. Often considered the “all-purpose” sealer for garage floors and workshops, they are a great value as well.
Compared to other penetrating sealers, their medium-sized molecular structure does not allow the sealant to penetrate too deep. This provides for better coverage rates and more importantly, better protection of the concrete surface.
As a result, they provide good water repellency including repellency against moisture, road salts, and dirt. Siliconate sealers also resist efflorescence and provide good protection against freeze-thaw, which is the leading cause of spalling of concrete.
Learn more: Why Penetrating Siliconate Sealers May Be All You Need
One thing to keep in mind is that siliconate sealers do not repel oil. Though they will buy you some time for cleanup by slowing down penetration into the concrete, a stain can occur if oil is allowed to sit for long. However, the resulting stain will not be nearly as bad as an oil stain on untreated concrete.
As with the majority of penetrating sealers, the application is very easy. For most concrete surfaces, the only preparation required is to clean and degrease. Once the concrete has thoroughly dried, one coat of the sealer is applied using a low-pressure pump-up garden sprayer with a conical spray nozzle.
Densifiers and Densifier Sealers
Densifiers are a type of silicate sealer. They had been used primarily in the process of polishing concrete and for adding strength to newly poured concrete floors. However, with the introduction of easier-to-apply lithium silicate densifiers, they have become more popular for garage, workshop, and warehouse floors.
Densifiers work by reacting with minerals in the concrete to form a very hard substance called calcium silicate hydrate or CSH. The CSH fills many of the empty voids and pores of the concrete at and near the surface. This increases the density, strength, and hardness of the concrete in these areas.
Check the Current Price on our Top Recommended Densifier
In addition, the filling of these voids with CSH reduces concrete dusting. Furthermore, it slows down moisture intrusion from below the slab to help prevent efflorescence and moisture vapor. However, silicate densifiers do not repel water or other liquids.
As a result of their increasing popularity, manufacturers began adding siliconate to densifiers to provide water and liquid-repelling characteristics. This new type of densifier with siliconate sealer added provides the characteristics of a densifier plus, the same protections as a siliconate sealer as well.
Learn more: Why Densifiers are the New Garage Floor Sealer
As with siliconate sealers, densifiers do not repel oil. However, testing has shown that densifiers with siliconate sealer added do a better job at resisting oil stains than a stand-alone siliconate sealer only.
The application is similar to that of a siliconate sealer. However, more importance is emphasized on not letting the densifier puddle. If it does, it’s important to use a paint roller to roll out the excess or use a broom to work it into the concrete.
If allowed to dry with excess sealer on the surface, a white powder will form and require heavy scrubbing to remove.
Oil Repelling Penetrating Sealers
Oil-repelling penetrating sealers are fairly new to the market. They’ve come about due to the constant demand for a better-performing sealer against staining from oil and other automotive fluids for garage floors and workshops.
A unique ingredient of these sealers is the use of fluorocarbons to create an oleophobic barrier. Oleophobic refers to the physical property of a molecule to seemingly repel oil.
Oil will lay flat or even run on a concrete surface treated with typical penetrating sealers. This characteristic does not resist the penetration of oil nearly as well as water which typically beads from being repelled.
However, oil tends to bead somewhat on a concrete surface treated with an oleophobic sealer. This repelling action allows the oil to sit for a longer period with less chance of penetration into the concrete.
This repelling action allows for an easier cleanup of oils and other automotive fluids and less chance of an oil stain. However, this does not mean the concrete can’t be stained. As with all penetrating sealers, oil and other offending contaminants will stain eventually if allowed to sit long enough.
What oil-repelling penetrating concrete sealers do is allow more time for the oil to sit before cleanup. In addition, it can also make the removal of any offending stains easier.
The raw materials used for these sealers are more expensive. As a result, they cost more than typical penetrating sealers. In addition, one popular oil-repelling sealer that is known to work well also requires the application of a densifier first.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Single Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Oil-repelling sealers in most cases are the better choice to use on garage floors and workshops. However, the importance of these characteristics versus cost is something to consider if you are on a budget.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Dual Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Application of these sealers is a bit more involved but still fairly easy. The concrete must be degreased, clean, and dry. Depending on the sealer used, the application can require a wet flood coat using a pump-up sprayer or application via a lambswool pad or microfiber pad.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers and Coatings
The number of options for garage floor coatings and topical sealers is large. There are acrylic coatings and sealers, epoxy, polyurethane, polyurea, and polyaspartics. In addition, there are single-part moisture-cured coatings and 2-part coatings. And most come in a choice of clear or colored.
Furthermore, the application process, performance characteristics, and durability vary greatly. This includes what chemicals, stains, and abuse they can withstand.
As a result, this is an area where research before a purchase is paramount. Marketing campaigns by large corporations such as Rust-Oleum, Behr, QuikRete, H&C, and others have only served to confuse the consumer. This has led to many unhappy or misinformed purchases.
In addition, do not rely on information from home improvement centers. They are not knowledgeable about concrete coatings and they do not carry quality products in their inventory.
The following topical sealer options below are listed from low to high in approximate cost.
Acrylic concrete sealers
Acrylic concrete sealers form a thin protective layer on bare concrete. Most are clear, but some can be tinted for color. Expect 1 – 1.5 mils dry film thickness per coat on average.
They will enhance the look of the garage floor and make the concrete look slightly darker. The floor will attain a somewhat wet and glossy look or you can opt for a less flashy matte finish. Glossy finishes tend to be more durable.
In terms of performance, acrylic sealers will protect the garage floor from water and chloride intrusion. In addition, they provide light to moderate protection against oil, vehicle fluids, hot tire pick-up, and road salts.
Most acrylic sealers are also U.V. stable. This means that they will not turn a yellow tint if exposed to direct sunlight.
Water-based acrylic sealers are the least durable of all concrete coating options and the easiest to scratch. Solvent-based acrylics increase durability, scratch resistance, and chemical resistance from automotive fluids.
For a more durable alternative, we recommend the performance of MMA acrylic sealers. These have longer endurance properties than standard acrylic sealers and can withstand harsher chemicals.
Acrylic sealers perform best with light to moderate traffic. Reapplication may be required once every 18 to 36 months depending on the sealer used.
One DIY advantage of acrylic sealers is that they are fairly easy to apply. The concrete needs to be degreased, cleaned, and dry. Etching of the concrete is typically not required unless the surface is extremely smooth.
You can use either a low-pressure pump-up sprayer or apply it with a paintbrush and rollers out of a tray. The key to a successful application is to apply the coating thin or problems will develop. Typically, two coats are applied for the best protection.
Modified Acrylic Polyurethane Sealers
If you like the look of a clear sealer on bare concrete, then one of the best-performing values is a modified acrylic polyurethane.
This is a somewhat new sealer for garage floors that we feel is going to explode in popularity once the word gets out. It combines high performance and ease of application at a budget price.
Technically, they are a thin, 2-part water-based, high-performance, acrylic-modified, aliphatic polyurethane coating and sealer. Aliphatic means that they are U.V. stable and will not amber. In addition, they are Eco-friendly, and no etching of the concrete is required.
Acrylic-modified polyurethane sealers provide better abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, and stain resistance than most epoxy. They are a true workhorse sealer for garage floors and workshops.
A minimum of two thin coats is required. This will result in a dry film thickness of just under 2 mils. Three coats are recommended for commercial applications. They are one of the few topical sealers that will adhere well to machine-troweled concrete.
Learn More: Our Top Recommended Acrylic Modified Polyurethane
These are best used on smooth concrete with few repairs. Due to their thin nature, they are not recommended on rough garage floor finishes or concrete with numerous repairs. They are not thick enough to provide self-leveling properties such as epoxy or polyurea.
Furthermore, they will only adhere to bare, unsealed concrete and are not compatible as a clear sealer over epoxy or other coatings.
Application requires that the concrete be clean and dry. No etching of the concrete is required. The sealer is best applied using a low-pressure pump-up sprayer with a conical spray nozzle in conjunction with a microfiber application pad or 1/4″ low nap roller.
Epoxy Concrete Sealers
Undisputedly, the most popular sealer is garage floor epoxy. Epoxy is a 2-part thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating. It chemically cures to create polymer structures that are closely cross-linked. This is what gives epoxy its superior strength and durability.
Epoxy is available as a clear coat to bare concrete but is more commonly applied in solid colors. Finishes range from satin for low-budget formulas to a high gloss for commercial-quality epoxy.
The most durable applications are epoxy systems that include a minimum of a color coat, optional decorative color flakes, and a clear coat. Professionally installed garage floor coatings consist of such systems.
Learn more: How to Choose the Best Garage Floor Epoxy System
In addition, epoxy coating sealers are much thicker than acrylics. They can be applied thicker than any other coating available. Depending on the solids content, one coat of epoxy can be applied at 2.5 – 12 mils dry film thickness and higher.
Epoxy sealers can withstand heavy traffic and are abrasion resistant. Furthermore, most are non-breathable and will prevent water and chemical intrusion at the surface. They are resistant to most chemicals, oil, vehicle fluids, road salts, and hot tire pickup.
One disadvantage is that epoxy is not U.V. resistant. If exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight, it can turn a yellow tint (amber) over a period of time.
Single-coat DIY garage floor epoxy kits purchased from local home improvement centers are the least durable epoxy coatings. We explain more in detail here.
Epoxy sealer application is more involved and time-consuming compared to penetrating sealers. However, DIY application is very common. Application is done using paintbrushes and paint rollers.
Proper concrete preparation is essential or the coating will not adhere properly. Etching the concrete is required at the minimum. Grinding the concrete may be preferred for some applications, but it is not mandatory.
In addition, epoxy application is time sensitive. Once the two parts are mixed, you typically have 30 – 40 minutes to get the epoxy applied before it hardens up. Low-quality epoxy allows for more application time. This time limit is dependent on the solids content. The higher the solids content (thicker, higher-performing coatings), the less time you have to apply it.
Moisture Cured Direct to Concrete Polyurethane Sealers
Polyurethane is a high-performance coating with increased benefits over epoxy. Depending on the quality, it is typically more abrasion and scratch resistant than epoxy. It wears longer and is more chemical and stain resistant. And unlike epoxy, most polyurethanes are U.V. stable and will not amber.
Traditional polyurethane coatings are available in 2-part formulas or single-part moisture-cured formulas. Like acrylics, they are applied thinly with an average dry film thickness of 2-2.5 mils.
However, one issue with traditional polyurethane concrete coating sealers is that they do not bond well directly to concrete. Instead, they are used as a U.V. stable colored coating over epoxy or more commonly, as a clear coat over epoxy.
Fortunately, this bonding issue has recently changed with the introduction of newer moisture-cured polyurethanes designed specifically to bond directly to concrete. Moisture-cured coatings are single-part and do not require mixing in a second part to act as a catalyst to start the chemical curing process.
Instead, it uses moisture in the air as the catalyst. The coating is not activated until it is applied to the concrete and exposed to the moisture in the air. As a result, you have a much longer working time to apply the coating as compared to epoxy. This is a nice benefit for DIY installations.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Moisture-Cured Polyurethane
Because these coatings are thin, they typically require a minimum of two color coats. One clear coat is sufficient if applied to bare concrete. However, two are recommended for more durability if it’s a busy working garage or workshop.
This type of coating sealer will not do a good job of hiding irregularities in the concrete due to its thin nature. High solids epoxy is better for that.
Application of direct to concrete moisture-cured polyurethane sealers is varied. The concrete must be clean, degreased, and completely dry throughout.
In addition, most require that the surface be acid etched. However, polyurethanes such as DuraGrade Concrete by Rust Bullet do not require etching in many cases. This can be a huge benefit to DIY installers that do not want to deal with additional concrete prep. Like most coatings, it is applied with paint rollers and brushes.
Polyurea and Polyaspartic floor sealers
Last on the list are the newer polyurea and polyaspartic floor coating sealers. These are a sub-group of polyurethane and have a similar finish to epoxy and polyurethane coated floors.
They are U.V. stable and can provide better protection than polyurethane. They also provide the best resistance against brown tire prints in the coating.
Unlike epoxy and polyurethane, many of these coatings can be applied in extreme temperatures from below freezing to over 100 degrees, depending on the formula.
What makes these coatings popular is their extremely fast return-to-service times. They can be installed on your garage floor in one day and driven on the next. Most polyurea and polyaspartic coatings need to be applied by a professional due to their very short working time. Twenty minutes or less is typical.
There are newer polyurea coating sealers that have been introduced that are much more DIY-friendly. They can provide up to two hours to get the coating applied depending on the polyurea or polyaspartic formula.
Learn more: Why the best DIY Garage Flooring Kits are Single-Part Polyurea
These long application times reduce the common anxiety of getting the coating applied in enough time. As a result, they can be an excellent choice for a DIY application.
We highly recommend the newer single-part polyurea coatings. These are commercial-quality, moisture-cured coatings that will last 10-15 years or more on a garage floor.
Final thoughts
We have a few considerations for you to keep in mind when deciding which garage floor sealer is best for you.
If you have issues with moisture coming up through the concrete, a penetrating garage floor sealer is generally the better choice. Because they are breathable, they will not be affected by moisture vapor. As we discussed, they may also serve to block or reduce moisture coming up from underneath the concrete slab.
Acrylic sealers are breathable and will tolerate low levels of moisture. Resinous topical sealers and coatings such as epoxy, polyurethanes, and polyurea will not allow for moisture transfer. They can peel and even pull small chunks of concrete up with it if moisture gets trapped under the coating. Moisture testing should be conducted if you suspect it may be an issue before applying a topical sealer.
If you use your garage or workshop for metal fabrication and welding, a penetrating sealer may be the better option. Coatings will get damaged if sharp metal objects are dragged across the surface. They will also incur burn marks from welding slag or heavy metal grinding.
Lastly, take the time to evaluate your requirements. Be realistic in terms of what you want a concrete sealer to do for your garage floor or workshop. No penetrating or film-forming topical sealer and coating are perfect. Compromises may need to be made, particularly if budget is a concern.
Paul Boehm says
Hi,
I live in a 90 yr old house with below grade full basement with concrete floor. I would like to put down an epoxy floor (100% solids) in the workroom of the basement I did the recommended calcium chloride test on the floor which found that the floor was releasing 8.5lbs./24hr/1000ft2 of moisture, which is well above the maximum allowable limit (4 lbs/24hr/1000lb2) for this application. Can I use a sealer to resolve this problem and install the epoxy over it? If so, which sealer do you recommend?
Thanks for your help
Shea says
Hello Paul. Good job doing the moisture test first. What you will need to apply is a moisture vapor epoxy primer first. These can usually withstand moisture vapor transmission rates up to 20 lb/24hr/1000 ft2 and they do a great job as a primer as well. Legacy Industrial and ArmorPoxy are both examples of vendors that sell such product. We would recommend giving them a call and tell them about your project.
David McLean says
I have just sealed my garage floor with Valspar Concrete sealer, 2 coats. However, when I started rolling the floor with Clarishield, a type of polyurethane to give it a shinier look, I ran into problems. As I was rolling it out I noticed it looked foamy, so I let 1/4 of the floor dry to see if the foam would go away. Turns out, I now have millions of white dots, bumps and fisheyes on the floor and it looks totally lousy. What did I do wrong and how can I fix it? I went by the mfg. recommedations on floor prep, etc. Should I have used a brush instead of a roller?
Shea says
Hello David. It sounds like you have a problem with two products that are incompatible. The Valspar Concrete sealer is a solvent based acrylic sealer. It’s not an extremely hard resinous coating like epoxy or polyurea for example. The Valspar product can only be recoated with a similar acrylic. In your case, you applied a polyurethane coating which has had a reaction to the acrylic. It wants to repel the acrylic because it is incompatible chemically. Unfortunately, your only option is to chemically strip or grind the area affected. You can then reapply the Valspar product. After that, you can apply an acrylic clear coat over it if you like. Keep in mind, acrylics like the Valspar product do not hold up well in a garage environment. They do much better for walkways, patios, and other areas that only receive foot traffic.
David McLean says
Thank you. I appreciate your help. Back to work, I guess.
JoAnne Doughty says
Hi Shea, we have a room in our basement under our 2 car garage. This is our first year in the house and have notice 2 leaks in that under room where we park the cars. Before we remodel that room we want to fix the garage floor. Suggestions please. JoAnne
Shea says
Hi JoAnne. What you need to do is prevent all water intrusion of the slab if you can. The first thing is to clean out and seal all of the expansion joints and contraction joints that are in the concrete. This would include any joints that are around the perimeter of the slab as well. For your particular case, a flexible self-leveling sealer such as SikaFlex would work fine. You will also want to repair any visible cracks. This is where water can penetrate the slab as well. After joints have been sealed and cracks repaired, you will need to seal the concrete. A siliconate sealer would do an excellent job and they are easy to apply.
Simon Brown says
I have an old oily garage floor that even after two grinds still has oil coming through. What would seal this please?
Shea says
when you say that you have oil coming through, Simon, do you mean that it is seeping up or weeping at the surface? Or do you mean that you can still see staining? If it’s just staining that you see, have you conducted a water drop test to see if the concrete absorbs the water or repels the water?
Shawn says
Hi Shea, I work for a tenting company we have a big cleaning area where we do cleaning of all of our tents with different chemicals bleach, Citro cleaners these are our toughest chemicals. We have not sealed the concert in a couple years now and we are experiencing pitting in the concrete. I have been tasked to the job of sealing the floor. it is a relatively large area. what recommendations do you have?
Shea says
Hello Shawn. You will want to use a penetrating sealer for this type of project. We recommend that you give Concrete Sealers USA a call so that you can discuss in more detail what type of cleaners you are using. They have quality sealers with excellent customer service to help you out.
Dana says
Hi Shea, I want a long lasting, easy care
coating that will last 10yrs or more(longer than acrylic), for a
1st floor 25yr old concrete floor in a PA summer cottage without
repair needs. Re presence of a vapor shield, I have no way of verifying it. Also, I want a natural look. The contractor I’ve found wants to grind and apply WB Protectorthane, a water based poyurethane. Your opinion please?
Thanks, Dana
Shea says
Hello Dana. There may not be a way to test for a vapor barrier, but you can test for moisture. This article explains how. It’s best to test when the ground outside is wet, such as after a rain storm. This is when moisture tends to reveal itself.
Polyurethane is a good top coat floor coating, but many cannot be applied directly to concrete without epoxy being applied first. Make sure to check with the contractor about the application requirements. We checked the data sheets for WB Protectorthane and it does not mention direct to bare concrete application. Water based polyurethane is usually used indoors for one of two reasons. The first is because it is low odor and produces very few if any fumes during application, unlike a typical solvent based product would. This is an advantage if you are currently residing in the home during application. The second reason is that many water based polyurethanes for concrete coatings can also be optioned with a matte finish for the most natural look. We didn’t see an option for matte for this product. Another consideration is abrasion resistance. Though most water based polyurethanes are more abrasion and scratch resistant than the best epoxies, they do not rate as high as the solvent based polyurethanes. This abrasion resistance also determines how well a product will reduce wear. This article on how to read technical data sheets is informative in this regard. For foot traffic only a good water based polyurethane should last years.
The abrasion resistance for Protectorthane is OK for a water based polyurethane. If you will not be residing in the cottage during application and it’s the glossy look that you want, we would recommend a single-part clear polyurea instead. It can be applied directly to properly prepared concrete and will last longer than water based polyurethane.
David says
Thanks for the useful information. I have an outdoor slab that is 20’ x 20’ and approximately 10 years old. It is weathered and cracked across the control joints in a couple of places but appears to still be in good repair overall and still level. Drainage is not a problem and I don’t see any subsiding areas. I would like to build a structure on this existing slab but want to seal cracks and prep the whole slab to ultimately be an indoor garage with an epoxy or poly floor coating. I’m worried that if the slab isn’t sealed properly that it will eventually degrade. Is there a good product that will do all this? Or am I crazy to build on an older slab?
Shea says
Hello David. If the slab is in good shape as you say, it should be fine for what you want to do. If it’s going to be some time before you build a structure, you can always seal the concrete with a good penetrating sealer like this right now to protect it from the elements. Keep in mind that if you do seal it now, it will later require grinding of the concrete to remove the sealer and prep for a coating.
Gustin Martel says
Hello, I have a five-year old Garage floor that is “original” with no product applied so far… The floor is heated and has drains. The climate is nw Montana so lots of snow in the winter.. very wet for a good portion of the year. I have used “box store “ epoxy on a prior garage floor and it peeled at the tire tracks despite my following the prep directions, etc. it looked worse than having it bare which is why I’ve been reluctant to put epoxy on this floor.. suggestions for this floor!? I’d like to be able to reapply if necessary to keep it looking good…
Shea says
Hello Gustin. If you use high quality product you shouldn’t have to reapply it from time to time. If you want something that is real DIY friendly, we suggest a single-part polyurea system. You can read about it here. This type of coating is commercial grade and much, much, better than what you had used before. You won’t have to worry about hot tire lift and it will last for years.
Susan says
Hi Shea,
A few days ago, I cleaned my 14 year old garage (unsealed) concrete floor with Ultra Pamolive dish soap and water. I squirted about 5 to 7 squirts of that Pamolive liquid on to one area of the floor . I wet the floor with a garden hose and then brushed the tire marks and other dirt marks off the floor with the scrub brush broom . Then I rinsed it off with water. Then after a few hours of drying, I notice a new development of about 7 hairline cracks which are each about 11 inches long. I had a few slight hairline cracks which were shorter in length before the cleaning. But these are more noticeable. Also these cracks became stained. Because I got really worry that I used the wrong cleaning agent, the next morning I re-rinsed the whole garage floor hoping that the dish soap got rinsed off completely. My question for you is do you think that this dish soap has caused the cracks on my concrete floor? If so, will these cracks get worse overtime or will I see more new cracks coming due to my cleaning with this soap? How can I save it from getting worse? I am thinking of selling my house in the near future, and I am afraid that this could affect the sale of my house. My garage is attached to the front of my house, and my bedroom is above the garage. There is nothing below my garage floor.
Thank you.
Shea says
Hi Susan. Cleaning your concrete with dish detergent will not cause your concrete to crack. Most likely you were not able to notice these cracks before because the concrete was dirty. This is very common. Hairline cracks are nothing to worry about and will not affect the value or resale of the home.
Sandy says
so I have a raw concrete pad that the sun does hit and I am totally confused in what to use. The end result I am looking for is something with a marbled look if possible. Can you suggest what products to use?
Shea says
Hello Sandy. What is this pad being used for? Is it indoors or outdoors?
Peter Bertolini says
Hello, I have a garage pad problem for which I need your advice. We live in a climate with lots of snow, so I purchased a Parking Mat with edges to catch the water during thaw. The garage is heated so lots of water from the thaw. The problem is that the cement is now spalding underneath the mats. Lots of sweating going on. I’ve rolled up the mats to let the pad dry out but anything left on the pad will generally cause sweating in the area ( ie, even a plastic pail).
There is definitely no vapour barrier beneath the pad ( I watched the construction of the pad & garage).
I would like to continue using the mats to catch all the melting snow/water, but it needs to be sealed.
What product do you suggest & what prep is required to apply the product?
Thankyou in advance for your insight.
Respectfully
Peter B
Shea says
Hello Peter. For your situation we would recommend treating your slab with a densifier. When applied, a densifier soaks into the concrete and causes a chemical reaction that fills many of the open pores within the concrete. This helps tremendously to slow down the intrusion of water from below the slab. Traditional sealers work at preventing water intrusion from on top of the slab and not below. This article here explains how they work. For your application, we would recommend two coats of a straight densifier. Do not use one with a siliconate sealer added as it will block application of the second coat. Also, densifiers require approximately 7 days to fully react with the concrete before they start performing at their best.
Stephen Barnes says
I am looking to stain my garage floor and wondered if there is a product you would recommend to give the stain a glossy finish and a more professional finished look. Any issues for applying a top finish coat to a concrete stained garage floor?
Thank you
Shea says
What type of stain are you planning to use, Stephen?
Dan mcinntyre says
Have a nature stone floor on my concrete garage floor. What can I put on it to bring back the shine and get the yellow out that’s in the sun? Dan
Shea says
Hello Dan. Unfortunately there is not much you can do. Nature Stone floors are all epoxy. Despite the U.V. inhibitors that manufacturers add, epoxy will still amber (yellow tint) over time when exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight. Once epoxy ambers you can’t make it clear again. Your only option would be to remove the epoxy clear coat that was applied over the stone pebbles and then apply a clear coat that is U.V. stable, such as polyurethane or polyurea. It could be problematic to remove, however, due to the pebbles. We suggest contacting a floor coating contractor if you want to go that route.
Tim S. says
Hi Shea,
Our saltbox is now 23 years old. About 18-20 years ago, we painted the floor, but over time, some of the concrete surface has become pocked (from winter road salt?) and I feel that the surface could use a new coat of something. Any suggestions?
Tim S.
Shea says
Hello Tim. Road salt can definitely be damaging to concrete over the years. If you previously painted the floor (assuming you didn’t apply a coating?) then our suggestion would be to grind the floor to remove the remainder of the old paint and prep the concrete for a much more durable coating. The grinding will help to expose and remove any weak areas of concrete and prep for a coating at the same time. At that point you can determine if you want to repair the pock marks or not before you apply anything. Our recommendation if you are looking for something not too expensive would be this coating here. If you want something that will be even more durable then this DIY coating is excellent.
If you decide not to do a coating, then a penetrating sealer such as a densifier with siliconate sealer added would be a good option. It won’t provide the same protection as a coating or improve the looks of the concrete, but it will help to keep your concrete protected from the elements.
Shaun says
Hello,
I have a new home that is being constructed and would like to apply a nice epoxy or polyurethane top coat to my brand new garage floor and would like some suggestions on what would be the best choice. I will be storing a project car in the garage and work in the garage a lot. the environment is Mojave high desert in CA and is typically below 30% humidity with little rainfall each year.
Shea says
Hello Shaun. When you say you want to apply a top coat, are you referring to clear coating for the bare concrete or a complete colored coating system?
shaun says
I would like to do a complete colored coating system.
Shea says
Our first recommendation for a self installation would be the newer single-part polyurea systems. You can read about the many advantages in the article. We list three different vendors, all with very good product. Legacy Industrial’s Nohr-S system is more expensive, but they include an epoxy primer which allows for a thicker build and even better adhesion for an even more durable system.
If you want the toughest, then we recommend a system that consists of an epoxy primer, high solids to 100% solids epoxy color coat, optional color flakes, and then a coat or two of polyurethane or polyurea clear top coat depending on how much color flakes you opt for. A floor that has color flakes to full refusal increases the over floor coating thickness and durability. It also requires two coats of clear at a minimum since the color flakes will absorb much of the first coat in all the nooks and crannies. Many of our sponsors on the right side of our website offer such systems. I would suggest you give one or more a call and tell them about your project. Also, you will need to properly prep your concrete for these coatings regardless of the fact that it is new.
J huber says
We have sealed heated cement floors in our home. What would be the best sealer? The stuff that’s on it now is shining but doesn’t clean well and there are all kinds of marks, scrapes ect.. I want a thick shinning epoxy ….
Shea says
Hello J. It sounds like you have an acrylic sealer on your concrete now. I order to apply a much tougher coating, you would first need to remove the acrylic sealer. Grinding is the best method as this will properly prep the concrete for much tougher coating at the same time. There are many types of clear coatings to choose from. Epoxy is one of them, but it’s not the most scratch resistant. We would recommend a clear epoxy followed by a polyurethane top coat. Another option would be a high solids polyurea or polyaspartic clear coating.
Tricia says
hi, we’re planning to close on a newly constructed home this Friday 11/30 in upstate NY where the weather forecast for the next 10 days has highs of 25-40. is this too cold to seal the garage floor? after reading your article on types of sealants, am leaning towards the penetrating sealant. we’d love to get this done before move-in, but want it done right.
Also, we’d like to seal the basement concrete as well, the builder’s rep has recommended that we use water based sealant, as the furnace is running. could you recommend a water based sealant?
Shea says
Hello Tricia. Unfortunately, most penetrating sealers cannot be applied if it’s under 40 degrees. However, I recommend that you contact Concrete Sealers USA and talk to them about your dilemma and see what they have to say. They have excellent product at good pricing. We highly recommend their PS101 and PS102 silicontate penetrating sealers. They are based in Minnesota and are very knowledgeable about applying sealers in cold weather and should be able to assist you. Most penetrating sealers are water-based, so you shouldn’t have any issues with the furnace in the basement.
Tricia says
Thanks Shea. I called Concrete Sealers USA – they say hi! they were very helpful in educating me about their products. They did confirm that we need to wait for warmer weather -50-60 degrees to seal the garage floor.
Shea says
I’m glad they could help you out, Tricia. If you are worried about exposing the concrete to road salts and other winter hazards, you could always go with a containment mat for the winter to protect the concrete.
matthew Wagner says
Hello, I just had a brand new garage/workshop built and I’d like to seal and color my new concrete floor. I intend to use it for auto repairs and car restoration. Since I intend to use jacks, jack stands, engine hoists etc on the floor on a regular basis I’m concerned about chipping and gouging the sealer or coating I apply. I also need a sealer or coating that will hold up to harsh chemicals. The floor is only a week old and has a nice smooth finish. Not only do I want to protect my new floor but I’d like to add some color to it. What would you recommend? Please keep in mind that cost is a factor. Thanks-Matt.
Shea says
Hi Matthew. When you state that you want to color the concrete, do you mean that you want to stain the concrete with color and seal it or do you want a solid color coating?
matthew Wagner says
First let me say thanks for your website and fast response, very helpful and appreciated. I’ve researched various coatings like those epoxies with the colored speckles in them and I’m concerned that a coating like that won’t hold up to the heavy usage, not to mention the price and difficulty of application and repair. Stains and sealers I’m told penetrate deep into the surface. It seems to me that the stain sealer combo might be better since the stain’s color and sealer would be IN the concrete and not ON it. In other words even if I do chip or scratch the floor it will still have the stain and sealer below the surface in the damaged area. Thanks-Matt.
Shea says
Hi Matt. What you want your flooring to do for you may or may not conflict with what your budget says you can do 😊 A quality garage floor coating system will last for years under the type of use you describe for your workshop as long as you display some common sense principles. In other words, don’t expect it to hold up if you plan on dragging sharp pieces of metal across the floor. No flooring will stand up to that. Jacks, jack stands, dropped wrenches, engine hoists, and etc. do just fine and will not harm the coating. This also includes great resistance to chemicals such as brake fluid, oils, and etc when the right clear coat is used. I’m not referring to the inexpensive one coat DIY epoxy kits you can get from your local improvement store. I’m talking about commercial quality coatings that consist of an epoxy primer, high solids epoxy color coat, optional color flakes, and coat or two of a high performance clear coat. Many professional automotive shops incorporate such coatings. A single-part polyurea coating system is a good compromise. It is easier to install and still performs very well.
In terms of concrete stains, they permanently change the color of the concrete. That is all they do. They also look dull and lifeless (some say ugly even) until a clear film forming coating is applied. The coating wets out the stain to create the vibrant and glossy look that stains are known for. Penetrating sealers (non-film forming) are not used on stains. They cannot protect the stain and the stain color looks dull and lifeless after the sealer has dried. For your requirements, you would need a couple coats of a high performance polyurea or polyaspartic clear coat to seal and protect the stain. The proper clear coat system will stand up very well to the use you describe. The nice thing about clear coats for stains or colored coatings is that they can always be sanded and recoated years later to make the floor look new again.
Either of these two types of systems would require good concrete prep consisting of acid etching or grinding. The only exception would be if you applied an acid stain. The stain will generally etch the concrete enough for application of a clear coat.
Penetrating sealers are by far the least expensive option, but they do nothing to change the looks of the concrete. They are stain resistant, but you can still get some nasty stains that are hard to remove if they are not attended to in a timely manner. This article here talks about penetrating sealers for shop floors.
David True says
I have a concrete floor that I ground and acid stained. I sealed it with eagle concrete sealer and then put polyurethane on it and it peeled off down to the sealer. Can I sand the sealer and coat with 2 part epoxy? It’s a 1600 sq ft floor and I don’t want to have to strip if at all possible. I called eagle and they told me it was 100 percent acrylic with 25 percent solids.they also said it was soluble to xylene.also if the epoxy will work should I sand and recoat with epoxy or should I use polyurethane at that time to achieve a better uv protection and also because of the gloss options?
Shea says
Hello David. Yikes, what you have is a classic case of mixing incompatible coating products. The current issue here is that you have a water-based acrylic sealer on the concrete currently which is not compatible with most other coatings accept another water-based acrylic. What polyurethane product did you apply? Polyurethane is not compatible with acrylics at all and most high gloss polyurethanes for concrete are solvent based and will soften acrylics, creating all kinds of problems.
One of the first questions I have is how will this floor be used? Technically, if you rough up the surface of the acrylic coating with 120 grit sandpaper you can apply a water-based epoxy to it. You can then apply a high gloss polyurethane on top of the epoxy within the recoat window. The problem with this, however, is that the strength of the entire coating is subject to the adhesion of the acrylic to the concrete. It’s like building a strong house on a sand foundation. If the floor is going to see any automotive use, the coating will still be at high risk for hot tire pick up due to the acrylic base. Also, the epoxy can still eventually amber under the polyurethane. I know you don’t want to hear this, but the correct method to fix this would be to chemically strip the acrylic sealer (grinding will ruin the color stain) and apply a clear coat of a single-part polyurea. Unlike polyurethane, polyurea can be applied directly to bare concrete and exhibits many of the same benefits as polyurethane.
David True says
I’m sorry I didn’t say but the eagle concrete sealer was an oil based sealer so I don’t know if that changes my options.also this floor will not have any cars on it only people and furniture.the epoxy I was asking about was 100 percent solids oil based epoxy.the polyurethane I originally used over the eagle oil based concrete sealer was the Parks brand also sold at the Home Depot.thank you for your help
Shea says
Hi David. The Parks polyurethane is for wood floors and furniture – not concrete. It’s real important to always review the instruction and data sheets for coatings to understand how they will perform and what substrates they can be applied to. The 100% solids epoxy will work if you rough up the acrylic real well. Again, just keep in mind that it will not have the same bond on the acrylic as it would if applied directly to the concrete. Professional installers would not even consider this option. You just need to ask yourself if it’s a risk you are willing to take.
David True says
thank you for your help I will follow up with results.
Lino says
Hi, I have a question about using an acrylic concrete coating or acrylic stucco on my garage floor and drive way.Then using a sealer on it. Have you guys ever done anything with these type of products and what is your thoughts. We live in So Cal.
Thank you so much!
Shea says
Hello Lino. Acrylic stucco is not a wear surface and should not be applied to walkways, driveways, or garage floors. Acrylic coatings for concrete is a wear surface, however, and can be used on a garage floor and/or driveway. Just keep in mind that coatings used outdoors can be slippery when wet. The use of a anti-slip additive should be considered. The most durable of acrylic coatings that we recommend is MMA acrylics. This article here explains why we recommend them over standard acrylic coatings.
Curtis Sharp says
Can I use eagle water based penetrating sealer and apply eagle oil based acrylic on top of it on my garage floor?
Shea says
Hello Curtis. No, you don’t want to do that. You need to choose one or the other. If you apply a penetrating sealer to the concrete first, it will effectively block the topical acrylic sealer from adhering well. It will not be able to penetrate the upper layers of the concrete in order to get a good mechanical bite because the first sealer is doing what it is supposed to do – seal the concrete.
Curtis Sharp says
Ok thank you. I will go with the penetrating sealer only. Just wanted the shiny floor look too!
Kris Callister says
I just built a shop. I was going to use an epoxy sealant on the floor, but will be doing some welding and grinding. Should I use a concrete densifier? How much are they? How large an area will 1 gallon cover? Do stores like Lowes and Home Depot carry them?
Shea says
Hi Kris. A concrete densifier is a good option for floors that will see metal fabrication. We recommend reading this article here about densifiers with sealers added. It explains how they work and what we recommend. You can expect a coverage rate of 350-500 square feet per gallon at a cost of less than $50 per gallon. If you want something with even more oil resistance, you can apply a special oil repelling sealer by GhostShield that is used in conjunction with a densifier. You can get more info on it here.
We don’t recommend your local home improvement centers for such sealers. Many don’t carry them. Of those that do, the brands they carry generally are not of commercial quality and tend to cater more to residential quality requirements.
Dave says
This is a great site. We have just built a garage addition with a theater below it, and therefore it is critical we seal it right to keep leaks from happening in the first place. The floor is Spancrete with a layer of concrete on top that pitches toward the doors (4-5 inches or so thick at far end to 2 inches at doors). The garage has not been used yet, and we t until sealed. We live in Chicago and snow/ice and rain/water from cars is important to address. I’ve read that polyaspartic or hybrid sealants May be best but the penetrating sealants used multi story parking garages seem interesting too. Any advice would be most welcome!
Shea says
Hello Dave. The big key when dealing with structures such as yours is to properly seal the joints between the sections of Spancrete, including where it meets the walls. This is where the majority of leaks occur. An epoxy or polyurea filler with a high elongation rate is required. For the surface, we would recommend a polyurea / polyaspartic coating for the best protection. This type of coating will protect your concrete from deteriorating road salts and deicing fluids much better than a penetrating sealant. They are also more flexible than epoxy which is important since Spancrete can expand and contract much more than a standard slab on a soil foundation. Also, try to keep the garage doors open as little as possible during the cold months. This helps to keep temperatures more constant and reduce the extremes of expansion and contraction of Spancrete.
Dave says
Thanks for the response! The companies around here push a combo of epoxy first layer with polyaspartic second layer. But based on what you suggested above the weak link would be the first layer. They claim that is a better first layer filler/sealant, while polyaspartic a better more durable top layer. Any additional comments would be most helpful!
Shea says
What they are stating is fairly accurate for a standard garage floor, Dave. Epoxy takes longer to cure which allows it to soak in more to create a stronger bond. However, for your particular application we do not recommend it for the reasons we had provided. Unless they plan on using a specialty epoxy bridging primer that is designed to be flexible, we would not advise it. Epoxy bridging primers are used for concrete floors that experience vibrations and movement.
Ginger says
Hello Shea,
I’ve been researching concrete sealers for a couple of weeks, and yours is the best resource I’ve found. Thank you for putting this information together!
We have just rebuilt our garage over a 30-year old concrete pad and turning the room into a mancave where there will be a lot of foot traffic and stools scuffing around on it. We also want to protect the floor from stains from food products. There are garage doors on the front and back of the garage, so it can be exposed to the outdoors on nice days.
The floor has been cleaned up with a grinder and is in good condition. We want to maintain the natural concrete look with something that will last for many years. We prefer a lower-gloss finish, but willing to go higher gloss with traction additives, if necessary. We are on the west coast with temperatures ranging from freezing to about 90.
I have been considering a top coat “Polycuramin” Rocksolid from Rustoleum. We’re also looking at the Rocksolid Wet Look Low Gloss Solvent Sealer. Your expertise would be most helpful if you would help steer us in the right direction – whether one of these or another product.
Thank you!
Shea says
Hello Ginger. RockSolid polycuramine in clear is not U.V. stable and will amber (yellow tint) if exposed to direct or strong indirect sunlight. It would not be the best choice if you have the garage doors open for periods of a time. The RockSolid Wet Look sealer is a solvent-based acrylic coating. Acrylic coatings are U.V. stable, but they are not as durable as a typical resin based garage floor coating. Stools may cause scratches and it can be susceptible to some acidic-based foods and mustard. They are easier to repair though and generally only require a reapplication over the affected areas. One of the best choices would be a coat or two of a single-part polyurea clear coating. These do look glossy, but they can be toned down with anti-slip additives. We have an article here about them that includes an image of a floor with clear. This type of coating will last 10-15 years or more under the conditions stated and is U.V. stable as well.