Hi Jonathan. From your description, our guess is that you have fairly hard concrete (good thing) and the fine sanding wasn’t enough to open up the pores at the surface. As a result, it did not bond well enough to resist the tires pulling it up. Our suggestion is to sand the areas more aggressively where the tires sit and recoat them. If the problem goes away, then that’s the reason why you had the issue. I would also suggest contacting Legacy Industrial directly to report the issue you have. I believe their response will be similar, but they are the vendor for the product and will know for sure what is required.

No additional prep outside of curing with water applications over 15 days was done to the new slab. It was hand troweled finished to a smooth grade and very fine sanding performed prior to application. Considering I have 600 sq ft of MMA applied in two coats and every single tire on any vehicle that sits on it with wet tires has pulled up to raw concrete…what is the best way to address?

Hello Jonathan. MMA acrylic sealers pulling up from tires is not common. What prep was done with the new slab before the application of the MMA 6600? Was a cure and seal compound applied to it directly after it was placed and finished? One advantage of MMA sealers is that reapplication over an old coat will will reactivate the old sealer and they will meld together.

I ended up just applying 2 coats of Legacy Industrial MMA 6600 sealer to my newly poured concrete garage with some of the anti-slip silica additive. I am very unhappy with the results. I applied the acrylic sealer and waited 9 days before using the garage. Over the course of the last 6 months, the acrylic sealer has pulled up with tire marks from our two cars after rains or snow, leaving raw, exposed concrete and pockmarks. My question is what is the best way to fix this and ensure I have a functional sealer to protect from road salts and moisture? The entire reason I had my garage floor repoured was to address previous damage. Now I am back at square 1. Do I have to remove all of what I put down? Can I epoxy over acrylic? This is my nightmare scenario…

Hi Johnathan. Crack repairs should be performed using a 100% solids resinous patching material such as epoxy or polyurea. Once the crack is filled and the product has cured, you need to grind/sand the repair flush with the surrounding surface. This properly preps the repair to accept a coating such as MMA 6600. Our favorite products is Xtreme Set 100 by Legacy because it’s so fast and easy. You can read about it here. It is more expensive though. We have an article here about crack repairs that also lists other appropriate products.

About stains – True stains are translucent in color. They are not meant to cover imperfections in concrete. Instead, they highlight imperfections and create character. This is because the density of the slab surface varies throughout. This is why no two concrete slabs look alike when stained with the same color. In addition, crack repairs do not accept stains since they are resin based. If you were to apply a stain and then a clear coat to protect it, all of these differences are highlighted and stand out. Many people like this and some don’t. It’s all a matter of preference. Color Bomb isn’t a true stain since it’s the MMA 6600 sealer that is being tinted and then applied. If you were to severely scratch it, it would expose the bare concrete. It’s similar to a coating. Furthermore, Color Bomb won’t completely hide all the imperfections since it’s very thin. Only a thick colored epoxy or polyurea coating can do that. Based on the description of your floor, applying just the MMA 6600 would create an aged and retro looking surface with lots of character. It just depends if that is the look you want or not 🙂