One of the toughest and most durable finishes that you can apply to a garage floor today is an epoxy coating. Not only does it protect your garage floor, it can instantly transform your boring or ugly concrete into a professional-looking floor of beauty and function.
And since the garage has become more than just a place where you park the car, the benefits of garage floor epoxy have made it one of the most popular garage flooring options today.
In fact, it is commonly used for both residential and commercial applications. Not only does it provide protection from the elements, but it will also give your garage or workshop floor that showroom shine that says “look at me”!
Depending on which type of garage floor coating system you choose, you can select from a variety of understated colors and hues. Other options are custom colors, metallics, and blends of color flakes that match your style, home, or even your favorite sports team.
So, let’s briefly examine what an epoxy coating really is. We will discuss what the benefits are, learn how it’s applied, and some of the costs involved.
Additionally, we will provide excellent examples of where you can purchase quality coatings and DIY coating kits that we have reviewed and can recommend.
What is garage floor epoxy?
Epoxy flooring is a thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating to concrete. It is created when you mix one-part colored or clear epoxide resin with one part polyamine hardener. Hence, a 2-part coating.
When the two parts are mixed, the hardener acts as a catalyst. This creates a chemical reaction upon contact and begins the exothermic curing process. This curing process forms polymer structures that are closely cross-linked, giving epoxy its superior strength and durability.
The end result is a thick and highly durable coating that bonds tenaciously to a properly prepared concrete surface.
Along with the colored epoxy coating, you also have the option of applying decorative color flakes and a high-performance clear coat. The clear coat protects the color flakes and color coat.
This combination of coatings is known as a garage floor coating system. Commercial quality systems can last for ten to twenty years on a garage floor.
In addition, if you don’t want the traditional epoxy look, there is the option of a metallic epoxy coating.
These finishes are extremely glossy and known for their wild-looking flowing rivers of metallic color. You can even create 3-D moon-like craters if you desire.
Though metallic epoxy can look absolutely stunning for a garage, it’s not for everyone. The darker colors and extreme gloss will show every spec of debris, dust, dusty footprints, and dirty tire tracks. It’s worse when the sun shines on it.
This is why the lighter grays, tans, and color flakes are so popular. They do a good job of not showing dust and the color flakes can camouflage bits of debris and other dirt.
Are there other coatings besides epoxy?
Epoxy is not the only type of decorative coating for a garage. It just happens to be the most well-known due to the many years that it has been available.
Commercial quality, single-part DIY polyurea coating systems are fast becoming a favorite for the DIY installer. These coatings are very durable and easier to apply than epoxy.
What’s more, one-day polyurea polyaspartic coating systems are now offered by commercial installers. These are very durable coatings that cure extremely fast. The fast cure allows them to apply a complete system in just one day.
Is Epoxy and Paint for a garage floor the same thing?
This is where marketing to the consumer by national brands has caused confusion and angst. An epoxy floor coating is not paint. Big retail companies started mixing the terms when they discovered people were asking for paint when they meant epoxy.
Most paints for garage floors are latex acrylic and have a matte to satin finish. They are the least durable of decorative options.
Some may have a very small percentage of epoxy resin added to increase durability, but these are still a latex acrylic and not a coating. These are known as epoxy paints or 1-part epoxy paint.
In addition, garage floor paint and 1-part epoxy paint do not seal the garage floor as an epoxy coating does. They are designed as a single coat application. That means you apply just the paint and that’s it.
Lastly, paint is not intended for clear topcoats. Nor are they compatible with most clear coats. Many people have become frustrated to learn this AFTER they applied a garage floor paint.
Read – Don’t Fall for These Phony “Best Epoxy” Reviews!
Benefits of a garage floor epoxy coating
So, what makes an epoxy coating one of the best finishes for your garage floor? Besides looking nice, the hard and thick coating that you get from epoxy creates a decorative surface that is very durable and easy to keep clean.
It’s resistant to impacts, chipping, chemicals, stains, and surface abrasion. You don’t have to panic about damaging or staining the surface if you spill oil on it or a bicycle falls over.
The thicker coatings also do a great job of covering over minor imperfections such as small spider cracks and flaws in the concrete.
In addition, epoxy is a concrete sealer. This means that it will seal out moisture at the surface as well. This is a great benefit for people who live in snowy climates that deal with road salts and deicing fluids that can damage concrete.
Furthermore, epoxy floor coatings are easy to clean. A mild cleaning solution and water are all that are required. Dirt and debris can be collected with a dust mop or soft broom when the floor is dry.
Epoxy coatings receive high reviews from home mechanics and hobbyists as well. Since it is both chemical and stain resistant, oil, brake fluids, anti-freeze, gasoline, and other caustic car chemicals can easily be wiped up without worry – even if it sits for a while. And because epoxy is a topical sealer, it is also anti-dusting.
Lastly, the high gloss and lighter colors of epoxy reflect overhead and natural light. This results in a brighter work environment that makes more efficient use of the light available.
How well do garage floor coatings stand up to heavy rolling tool boxes, floor jacks, and jack stands? Quite well actually!
As long as any rolling steel wheels are not roughly scarred up or slid across the floor without care, they will not damage or scratch most coatings. This goes for jack stands as well.
Review the different epoxy coating options by Concrete Network
Because the thicker, multiple coat epoxy systems wear so well, warranties of up to 15 years or more for installation by professional installers is becoming common. Many manufacturers even warranty the materials against defects for the life of the floor.
Visit our garage flooring gallery to view more epoxy coated garage floors.
Are garage floor coatings slippery?
Most floor coatings are not slippery when they are dry. However, epoxy and other coatings can become slippery when wet. Typically, the more gloss a coating has, the more slippery it can be when wet.
A heavy application of color flakes can add texture to a coating and make it slightly less slippery, but it is not a substitute for an anti-slip surface. If wet grip or non-slip is a concern, then an anti-slip media should be mixed into the final coat.
Are there drawbacks to an epoxy coating?
As tough as this type of garage floor covering can be, it’s not resistant to everything.
Welding is hard on epoxy and other floor coatings. It can create burn marks from the hot slag that falls on it. In fact, metal fabricating in general can be tough on floor coatings. This is due to the tendency for heavy and sharp objects to get dragged across the surface.
If you are interested in a more utilitarian type of coating that makes cleanup easier, yet resists hot slag and grinding sparks better, then we suggest looking into this coating that we reviewed.
Epoxy and other coatings are not a good choice for garage floors that have moisture issues from below the slab. The rate of moisture vapor transmission from underneath the slab can cause coatings to delaminate if it is too high.
In addition, there is always the concern about hot tire pick up for epoxy. This is a problem that is more closely associated with the home improvement store DIY epoxy paint kits. These are usually water-based coatings that are approximately 50% solids and 3 mils or less thick.
Hot tires can cause these coatings to soften. As the tires begin to cool, they contract ever so slightly, and the tire tread grabs and pulls at the surface of the thinner coating.
This process will actually cause the epoxy to delaminate as the tire pulls it up off the floor.
As a comparison, a 90% – 100% solids epoxy cures to a minimum of 9 mils dry film thickness. Many can be applied much thicker depending on the coverage rate used.
These thicker coatings are considered commercial quality. They are installed professionally or can be purchased from concrete coating vendors online and be applied DIY instead.
Read – Why Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield and similar epoxy paint kits get bad reviews.
Lastly, epoxy is not U.V. stable. It can develop a yellow tint over the years from exposure to direct sunlight. The coating industry refers to this as ambering. Low-quality epoxy can amber within months, while high quality epoxy may take years.
One way to prevent this from happening is to install an epoxy floor system with full color flakes and a high-performance clear coat. Both color flakes and clear topcoats such as polyurea or polyurethane are U.V. stable and will not amber.
How garage floor epoxy is applied
Epoxy floor coatings can be professionally installed or you can do it yourself. A DIY installation can save you quite a bit of money in labor costs. It’s not that difficult as long as you make yourself familiar with all the steps required and plan accordingly.
The first step is proper preparation of the concrete. This is critical and the most important step for a successful coating. The process will involve either floor grinding or acid etching of the surface in order to create the necessary concrete profile.
Repairing concrete cracks or other damage at this time is highly recommended if you want an unblemished look.
High quality epoxy floor systems involve multiple coats to insure a very tough and resistant coating that will last for years.
Depending on the system being applied, an epoxy primer may be applied first.
The primer penetrates and binds to the concrete to provide the best adhesion for the subsequent thick coating layers. Some primers will also act as a moisture vapor barrier. This is for concrete floors that are susceptible to moisture vapor that moves up from the soil through the concrete to the surface.
The next coat is the thick color epoxy base coat. Sometimes referred to as the build coat, This may be applied without a primer depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Next are the optional colored acrylic paint chips. The color coat is what will receive the colored flakes and are applied while the color coat is still freshly wet.
Full color flake coatings are a popular option. This is when the color flakes completely cover the base epoxy coat. This option allows for custom blends of flake colors to provide any color flooring you want. Furthermore, it provides additional thickness and durability to the coating.
The final coat/s is the clear topcoat. It is also referred to as the wear coat. It locks in the color flakes, provides the best wear and stain protection, and creates the glossy look and depth that these floors are known for.
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How much does garage floor epoxy cost?
The cost to epoxy your garage floor can vary greatly. It is determined by the type of concrete prep performed (etch or grind), possible repairs, quality of materials used, number of coats, and whether you hire a professional for installation or do it yourself.
The least expensive method for an epoxy floor is to apply it yourself.
Pricing can start as low as .27 cents per square foot. This would be for the single coat, low-budget, water-based epoxy coatings. Kits like this one from Rust-Oleum are an example. They are the least durable epoxy and not very glossy, but they are cheap in cost.
However, you can purchase a high-performance, commercial quality garage floor epoxy coating system in kit form for just over $1 per square foot. This would include an epoxy primer, high solids base epoxy color coat, color flakes, and a high-performance polyurethane clear coat.
This type of coating system in a kit will last 10-15 years or more. We highly recommend kits like this one here. It’s an excellent value for the money.
A good compromise for the budget would be a single coat of 100% solids epoxy. This company here offers a few choices of kits to fit your budget. You can also read our review.
The coatings that are easiest to apply are single-part polyurea. We did a full review of single-part polyurea here.
Don’t forget to factor in the cost for required supplies such as mixing buckets, paint rollers, cleaning supplies and etc. The advantage of the commercial quality kits is that many of these vendors include some of these supplies with their kits.
A professional installation typically starts at around $4.00 per square foot. This cost does vary and can depend on the competition in the area where you live. It will usually include a minimum of one epoxy color coat, color flakes, and a clear coat.
Cost can go up from there depending on the number of top coats required, how much color flake is applied in the base coat, and if more than one clear coat will be required. A typical 2-car garage is approximately 400ft² for reference.
Total time for a professional company to epoxy coat your garage floor is 2-3 days. You can usually park your car within 72 hours after it is finished.
The fast curing one-day polyurea polyaspartic systems start close to $6 per square foot and go up in cost from there. These are applied and finished in one day and can be driven on the next. Because of their fast cure rate, they should only be applied by professionals or those with much DIY coating experience.
Final thoughts
As we mentioned, an epoxy coating will completely transform the looks of your garage floor. It’s durable, easy to clean, highly stain resistant, and all while providing great looks at the same time.
There is one important point that we want to make. You genuinely get what you pay for when it comes to garage floor coatings. If want a budget product, you will get budget performance. If you spend a bit more, you will be rewarded with a much more durable coating.
In the long run, it will actually save you both time and money to purchase higher quality coating products – by far.
So, whether you are turning your garage into a man cave, a working shop for car repairs and projects, or just a place to park your cars, it’s hard to beat the benefits an epoxy garage floor coating system will provide.
mitchell mcguigan says
i would like to know how long i need to wait to apply the epoxysheld clear to the epoxysheild floor paint ?
Shea says
Hi Mitchell. We are assuming when you say EpoxyShield floor paint, you actually mean the 2-part EpoxyShield epoxy garage floor coating? If so, you need to wait a minimum of 8-12 hours before recoat. You should be able to press your thumb to the surface without leaving a thumbprint. Rust-Oleum allows up to three days to apply subsequent coats (color or a clear) before you need further prep.
Curtis says
Anyone happen to know the epoxy color/chip color combination in the picture at the top of this article?
Shea says
Hi Curtis. We have contacted Mission Builders in the past, however, they do not know what color flake combination was chosen for that floor.
Curt says
I applied the Rust-Oleum RockSolid coating to my garage 6 months ago but am now concerned about slipping on it when wet. What would you suggest to put over it at this stage for non-slip? I see some options are quite expensive.
Thanks, Curt
Shea says
Hello Curt. In order to retain the current looks you would need to apply a RockSolid clear coat with the an anti-slip additive added to it. Sometimes this additive comes with the kit. It would require that you degloss and rough up the current surface with 120 grit sandpaper before applying the clear coat.
antje says
HI I have prepped my concrete garage floor, used epoxy primer and then Rusto-leum Epoxy floor. It was so thin that we then used the top coat as well. It still does not have that professional look. Can we use the Rustoleum Rock Solid Polycuramine top coat over the epoxy? What about the Rock Solid textured clear top coat?
Shea says
Hello Antje. What epoxy primer did you use exactly? Also, what do you mean when you said it was “thin”? Was it the color or something else?
Antje says
We used Rust-Oleum epoxy primer. The color is fine but I was hoping for a thicker coating that would really enhance the concrete floor.
Shea says
OK, good. I was afraid you may have used a concrete bonding primer (bad). I’m assuming that you used Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield for the color coat? If so, it only has a semi-gloss finish to the color and will not look like the professionally installed, commercial quality garage floor coatings with the glossy look. It doesn’t matter what clear coat you put over it, it not’s going to achieve the same rich look of colors and gloss. You would need to apply a glossy color coat first. The RockSolid color coat is very glossy. However, like Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield, it’s a thin mil coating. If you want thickness to go along with the gloss, then you would need to apply the proper high solids, commercial quality epoxy color coat.
sam says
Hi there, I have two spots where my garage door doesnt fully seal against the concrete garage floor which allows water to slowly seep through. From reading through all these it sounds like using a polymer-modified concrete to level the small dips in the floor is the way to go. Is that correct? Lastly, do you know any contractors in Los Angeles who can do this job? I’ve had an extremely hard time finding any concrete guys who wanna do the job or even offer that type of work.
Shea says
Hi Sam. Most concrete contractors will not come to a home for small jobs like that. Also, unless you are going to be applying a garage floor coating or some other flooring over the concrete, the repairs will stand out since it’s not going to look like the original concrete. How much of a gap or low spot do you have? If you have a standard retractable overhead garage door, your bottom seal may need replacing. They are designed to compress and fill small gaps in the concrete when the door is adjusted properly. When they get old, they loose their resiliency and don’t seal very well. In addition, oversized bottom door seals are also available if you need it to conform to some bigger gaps or waviness of the floor. Lastly, you can also install a floor seal like this here. These conform to the floor and help to seal with the garage door to prevent unwanted debris and water from entering.
sam says
Thanks for the response. I am planning to do an epoxy job after it but have still had issues finding guys who’ll do both jobs. Maybe a handyman with concrete experience could do it? There’s 2 dips both small like less than 1/4″. I replaced the bottom seal. And tried programming the door to shut further down. I also tried a floor threshold like you sent but I was unable to get it to stick to the floor even after 3 days. Seemed to never fully dry so our Yukon would just slide it when we pulled into the garage. I see these oversized bottom sealers from North Shore, perhaps that’s the answer? At this point I’ve tried so many things that keep failing so I’m nervous to do any non permanent fixes… thoughts?
Really appreciate your help
Shea says
If you are going to go with a garage floor coating, make sure that you hire an actual garage floor coating company or contractor. We have an article on how to choose one here. Don’t try and find a handyman, painter, or some guy who does it on the side. There is always problems with application and/or poor materials. The companies licensed and bonded to do garage floor coatings are specialists in their field. They can easily take care of spots like that by troweling in a fast cure slurry during the floor prep stage.
As far as the garage door, if the gaps are not large then a larger diameter seal will many times fix the issue. Also, if the concrete is clean and you are using the correct adhesive, a garage floor strip should not peel up. Gorilla Construction Adhesive works well for projects like that.
Denise S Cascia says
What temperature is OK to install the floor? It’s in the 50’s and raining here now in Southwest FL.
Shea says
Hi Denise. For epoxy you need a minimum temperature of 55-60 degrees or it won’t cure. Also, the humidity has to be less than 80 – 85% depending on the manufacturer. Single-part polyurea would be a better choice if temps are an issue.
Rand says
A friend just bought a home and I’m helping install some shelving. Can we install 2×4 framing directly on the epoxy, or do we need to install a vapor barrier – as we would directly on a cement floor. Thanks in advance!
Shea says
Hi Rand. Yes, you can apply it directly on top of the epoxy. No vapor barrier is needed since the epoxy does not breathe and completely seals the concrete.
Rand says
Thanks so much for the quick reply Shea 🙌
Wesley Wallace says
I am In the process of building a house right now. We decided to go with precolored concrete. I loved how it looked when wet and would like my sealer to bring out that look. What type of sealer would you recommend for the interior of the house that would also bring out that wet look?
Thanks.
Shea says
Hi Wesley. One way to tell how concrete would look with a clear coating is to wet the surface. If you like how the surface looks wet, then a clear coating with a gloss finish will provide a similar look. DuraGrade Clear by Rust Bullet would make a good choice. It’s low in VOC’s so there is less stink for an indoor application. Plus, it’s much more abrasion resistant than typical water-based acrylics that are used indoors.
Raphael says
Hi Shea,
I’ve changed my mind and want to go with an epoxy coated garage floor instead of polymer modified cement. I have a 2 car garage (400 sq ft) with quite a bit of pitting (approx. 200 sq ft) and some cracks. I’m gonna rent an EDCO dual head grinder and grind everything down before starting the repairs of the pitting and cracking.
My question is, can I use a modified polymer cement (much cheaper than epoxy patch products) to repair the pitting, rough it up with light grinding and then apply an epoxy primer and topcoat? Will epoxy based products adhere to the pol. modified cement?
Thank you
Raffi
Shea says
Hi Raffi. Yes, coatings will adhere to polymer-modified cement as long as it is roughed up. DO NOT use a self-leveling underlayment like you can find at your local home improvement centers. These are designed to have flooring laid over them such as wood, carpet, tile, and etc. It’s not a wear surface and not for coatings. Ardex K15 or similar is an example of a product to use. Call them to find where you can get it locally.
Raphael says
Thanks again Shea!
Eric says
Hi Shea,
I’m in SoCal and I plan to have an epoxy coating applied in my garage by a professional. I was dead set on 100% solids epoxy kits due to their durability and thickness until I came across a post of yours on a forum in regards to single-part polyurea coating for DIY’ers. I plan to do all of the due diligence to sand it down to a smooth surface and fill in all of the cracks with epoxy fillers. Can you please tell me what type of product you’d recommend in my case? I plan to use some flakes to give it some contrast, thanks!
I was actually looking at the following 100% solids kit:
https://coloredepoxies.com/products/colored-epoxy-resin-kit-new-images?variant=12644003119189
Eric
Shea says
Hi Eric. Were you planning on installing a coating system using 100% solids epoxy or just a single coat?
Eric says
Thanks for the reply Shea! I think the 100% solids require two coats? The initial coat with the color I’ve picked and a clearcoat on top? I can do whatever that’s necessary to ensure the best performance.
Shea says
You should always apply an epoxy primer coat first when applying 100% solids epoxy. Colored Epoxies is a bit misleading in this regard. They state in their marketing that Colored Epoxies is a primer and finish all in one. However, when you read their application instructions they clearly state that you should apply a thin coat first in order to prevent outgassing and other cosmetic issues of the second coat. That first thin coat is a primer coat. In addition, they say to apply the second coat at 4mils (this is thin) or at a coverage rate of 150 square feet per gallon. Their math doesn’t add up. 100% solids epoxy applied at 150 square feet per gallon would provide a single coat that is over 10 mils thick. Something is not right. I would recommend calling them to find out how many gallons is needed for your square feet and what the overall thickness would be.
Vendors that specialize in garage floor coatings always break everything down so that it’s easy to understand. They include a separate epoxy primer with their kits as well. Look at this vendor here and then this vendor here. Both kits cost approximately $1.55 per square foot for both the epoxy primer and 100% solid epoxy. This will be a total thickness between 10-14 mils. This does not include the clear top coat which they both offer as well. They both also provide actual performance data for the coatings and Colored Epoxyies does not. However, they should be able to provide that if you ask.
We prefer concrete coating vendors like this because they are experienced with their products and provide excellent customer service. They can help with your application and prep questions. They are tailored to help the average DIY application. They are not the only ones either. We have a few more sponsors that provide the same type of product. Colored Epoxies business plan is not setup to help in this manner. We aren’t saying not to purchase from them. However, we have found the most DIY applications are much more successful when going with vendors who specialize in garage floor coatings.
Eric says
Understood and thank you very much for the detailed reply. I will go with one of the kits that you’ve recommended.
Shea says
You are welcome Eric. Another consideration we recommend as well are the kits with 93% solids epoxy. The part-A epoxy resin is still 100% solids, but the part-B hardener has a little bit of solvent added to make it easier to work with. It still performs very well. Here is an example.
Matt says
Hi Shea. This website is great. Thanks for the insights. I performed a search but could not find any info on this. Do you have any thoughts about Aquapon? I have heard good reviews but not sure how it compares to a product like RockSolid. I was also told that I should put down 2 coats of product and 2 of clearcoat. I was hoping to just do 1 of clearcoat. I plan to grind the floor and not use a primer with this product. Is it OK not to use a primer with this type of product? Thanks.
Matt
Shea says
Hi Matt. We are assuming you are referring to Aquapon WB EP. This is a residential quality water-based epoxy that is a bit better than the typical DIY home improvement store epoxy such as Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield. It uses the more modern epoxy formulas that do not require induction time. Like other water-based epoxy, it goes down thin and cures even thinner (2-3mils dft) after the water has evaporated out. We do not classify this type of epoxy as commercial quality that would last 10 years or more. Two color coats would be better to ensure good color uniformity and to help combat hot tire pickup. A primer is not needed. As long as you are not going with a heavy color flake application, a single coat of clear will be fine. Two will help to increase how long it wears since it will take longer to wear through the clear coat. Like most water-based epoxy of this caliber, we could not find any significant information in the data sheets in terms of abrasion ratings and other information that will tell you how well it will wear. As a result, we can’t give you a good indication of how it will wear compared to RockSolid. Our guess is that it would not be much better.
John-Michael M Kahrs says
Hello, I will be moving into a new build next month and am wanting to do an epoxy floor before I get it dirty. Since it is new concrete what sort of prep d oyou recomend? Also, it is 675 sqft and I am trying to keep my total costs below $750. Basically all kits I can find sell for $1000-1200. Am I forced to go with something cheap from lowes? Seems like there are $300 kits from lowes, and $1100 kits from high end manufacturers. My desire is: Epoxy floor, flake, clear coat. Thanks for the advice!
Shea says
Hello John-Michael. You need to etch the concrete at a minimum. This article here explains why. Unfortunately, for your square footage you are not going to find a quality garage floor coating system that includes epoxy primer, a high solids and very high gloss epoxy color coat, light to medium coverage color flakes, and high performance gloss clear coat for much less than $1000 including some supplies. This type of system would be approximately 15-17 mils thick and last 10-15 years before needing a new coat of clear. For approximately $400 plus all supplies you can apply one thin coat of a satin / semi-gloss EpoxyShield water-based colored epoxy with color flakes and their high gloss epoxy clear coat and hope that the one coat of color is uniform and even. It will be approximately 5-6 mils thick and last you 3-5 years before it begins to just wear out in places. This does not include possible hot tire pickup. Rust-Oleum does have a higher performing solvent-based epoxy called Rust-Oleum Professional. It would add approximately 2 mils of thickness and be more resistant to hot tire pickup. Overall price would increase approximately $150 – $200 depending on where you get it. Amazon sometimes has better prices.
When it comes to garage floor coatings, you really do get what you pay for. If you opt to go with the cheaper residential quality DIY products, you will eventually be grinding the floor to remove it down to bare concrete in order to apply the more expensive, but much longer lasting commercial quality products. I’m sure it’s not what you want to hear, but we just want you to know what to expect.
John says
I sort of figured thats how it would be. Looks like there are decisions to be made. Thanks!
John-Michael M Kahrs says
What are your thoughts on renting a floor sander from Homedepot instead of acid etch? Seems like a good way to not deal with acid.
Shea says
We have an article here about grinding that covers that.
John Wescott says
I applied epoxy to my garage floor 17 years ago and I would like to add another coat as it has faded. It is still well adhered to the floor. Do I need to etch or prep the surface in any special way? Thanks for any insight you may have.
Shea says
Hi John. We have an article here that discusses the process.
Nick Benson Sr says
Do I need to etch my brand new concrete that has not even been walked on yet?
Shea says
Hello Nick. Yes. New concrete requires the proper prep just as older concrete does. This article here explains why.
Ramsey says
Hi there,
I’ve been getting requests to epoxy front porches from customers of my garage flooring service. I use 100% solids based epoxy with primer / base / full broadcast and a clear top coat with anti slip.
Would this system work on front porch? Is there a better grip than shark grip? Is there special epoxy for porches vs garage floors?
Thanks
Shea says
Hi Ramsey. The problem with using epoxy on porches is that it’s not U.V. stable and will amber. If exposed to direct sunlight it can even begin to chalk up and deteriorate. As you may know, color flakes are U.V. stable and a full broadcast will protect the epoxy underneath. If you applied a U.V. stable clear coat, then you would be in much better shape. Polyurea, polyurethane or polyaspartic would be a good example. You may want to consider applying a polyurea system instead. Here is an example of single-part polyurea. SharkGrip is a fine grit anti-slip. You can purchased something more coarse if you need it. Here is an example.
Anthony S. says
Hello. I used the epoxyshield 2part coating kit on my garage floor. For the clear top coat I have purchased Daich Dai-hard 100 industrial clear epoxy. It was less than half the price of the epoxy shield brand and had good reviews. I haven’t applied it yet and am wondering what the risk is of mixing brands. I have been recommended not to do that, but I figure that since they are both epoxy the risk will be minimal. I was going to mix a small batch for a test but the two parts do not have their volumes marked so I do not know how to mix smaller portions properly. Thanks in advance.
Shea says
Hi Anthony. Yes, The Daich Dai-Hard 100 will work. It’s actually a better quality clear coat than EpoxyShield. If the color coat has been down for more than 24 hours, it will require that you degloss the surface first with 120 grit sandpaper before applying an additional coating.
Ramzi says
Hi there,
I applied an epoxy coating on a garage floor. I also did a full broadcast of a single coloured flake.
However there are alot of areas where I can see the epoxy colour which is more blue than the flake that is gray.
Before applying my top coat, can I colour match the flakes with a paint of some sort as to hide this colour difference, and then apply a top coat? Will the top coat adhere to the paint properly? Is there a chance that the paint would not adhere to the paint flakes?
Shea says
Hi Ramzi. It takes a much larger application of color flakes that people realize for a full broadcast. We recommend mixing up a small batch of your clear and applying to those areas and toss the flakes into that to properly cover everything. Once those areas have cured sufficiently, you can then apply the clear coat.
Ramzi says
Hi Shea,
I did as instructed, the flakes were scraped but you can see some gloss residue from the epoxy clear.
My next step is to apply a polyurethane top coat. Will this make the whole floor uniform in gloss, or do I have to cover the whole area with a clear epoxy coat first and then top coat?
Shea says
Once you apply the next clear coat the finish should be uniform throughout.
Belinda says
We just had an epoxy flake finish applied to our garage floor, and although it’s glossy it has a rough prickly feel to the skin? Is this a normal finish for epoxy flake or should it feel glossy smooth?
Shea says
Hi Belinda. We are guessing that you opted for a full color flake floor? If so, it’s going to have a rougher texture unless you add more clear coats. This is fairly normal.
SD says
I had a contractor (painter) complete an “epoxy” job in my garage; however… I was not pleased!
He finished too quickly for the surface to be properly etched IMO.
They used a 1 part epoxy paint..
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-PREMIUM-5-gal-Slate-Gray-Self-Priming-1-Part-Epoxy-Satin-Interior-Exterior-Concrete-and-Garage-Floor-Paint-90205/308800275
Question: if I want to redo this using a 2 part epoxy, will I need to sand up the flooring that has been painted? If it is considered cured, could I just lay the 2 part epoxy over it?
Shea says
Hi SD. What was applied was latex acrylic concrete paint with a little bit of epoxy resin added to increase durability – AKA 1-part epoxy paint. It’s not a true epoxy coating. This article explains the difference. If you want to apply a quality epoxy coating, then you need to remove the paint via grinding. Your coating is only as good as what it is adhered to. Paint peels under tires. If you apply epoxy over it, then the epoxy will pull the paint up from the concrete.
Just as an FYI for our readers and as you unfortunately found out, painters are not garage floor coating specialists. They are great for painting the interior and exterior of your home, but the large majority don’t know much about concrete coatings. For those who want to hire someone, make sure they are a concrete coating specialist. This article here explains more.
SD says
Lessons learned! Thanks for the information.
He is coming back on Tuesday to rectify the situation; I’m going to break the news to him!
Thanks again.
Ramsey says
Hi Shea
I’ve been installing floors for a few years now and have had a wierd issue happen.
Installing full flake system, primer , base coat, flakes and siloxane epoxy clear top coat. 600 sq ft garage.
Everything cured well, but have one section around 3 x 10 ft, near the side door entrance where the top coat has stayed tacky (not gooey, but like duct tape) now for 2 days. Any idea how to remedy this?
Shea says
Hi Ramsey. What were the current temps of the floor and air when the epoxy was applied? We’ve seen this before when cold air seeped in under doors and cooled the epoxy surface near the door below specs. This will make the surface feel tacky because the curing essentially stopped. Our recommendation is to call the manufacturer and talk with a rep about the issue. They should be able to help solve the issue.
Amy says
i have a 1 month old new concrete poured in my garage(414sqft garage). I was planning to do Rustoleum Rock solid 2.5 car polycuramine and after 12 hrs of application i was thinking of putting Rexthane I or Rexthane II(i dont know the difference) as clear coat.
My second option is using 650 SL/RC and then using Rexthane I or Rexthane II as clear coat.
which option is better(cost/quality wise). I am in California so may have some restrictions on product availability?
650 SL/RC gives 10-40mils thick coat
Rustoleum Polycuramine will give 3-4mils thick coat.
not sure whats the difference between these two products
Shea says
Hi Amy. You are comparing apples, oranges, and pears. Rust-Oleum RockSolid is a residential quality, DIY polycuramine coating with an average DFT of 3 mils. It has not been approved or intended by Rust-Oleum to mix with any other products. It has a working time of over an hour and a coverage rate of 200-250 square feet per kit. Sherwin-William ArmorSeal 650 SL/RC is a 99% solids, commercial quality, industrial coating. Important to note is that you need to purchase the part-A and part-B components separately. It has a working time of 30 minutes and will cover 160 square feet per gallon at the minimum DFT of 10 mils. In addition, it will require an aggressive acid etch or grinding of the concrete surface. An epoxy primer applied beforehand is highly recommended. Sherwin Williams recommends Armorseal 33 epoxy primer. Rexthane 1 and Rexthane II are single-part moisture-cured polyurethanes. Rexthane I has a higher solids content, but the abrasion and chemical resistance ratings are not published. Rexthane II is an average performing polyurethane. RockSolid clear coat has better abrasion ratings (longer wear) than Rexthane and would be the recommended clear coat for RockSolid.
Amy says
Based on reviews Rocksolid clear coat goes pale over time
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/rocksolid/garage-floor-kits/polycuramine-clear-top-coating-kit
is there any alternative top clear coat to use with Rocksolid polycuramine?
Shea says
The link you provided leads to their product page, Amy. There are no reviews. You may want to read our article on RockSolid. We have updated it with known issues that people complain about. In addition, there are hundreds of comments and questions that we have answered. The biggest complaint is that the product is too thin and the color coat can look blotchy and dull. It requires a second coat to rectify the issue. We have never heard of RockSolid clear going pale. However, epoxy and polycuramine (RockSolid) are not U.V. stable and can amber (yellow tint) if exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight over a period of time. A U.V. stable clear coat will prevent this from happening if applied over a RockSolid color coat. If you went with a different manufacturer, it would first require waiting a minimum of 48 hours for the RockSolid color coat to cure enough. You would then degloss the surface with 120 grit sandpaper to provide a mechanical profile that the clear coat can adhere to. No testing has been done to show that other products will chemically bond to it satisfactorily.
There are much better alternatives to RockSolid. You mentioned VOCs. Do you live in an SCAQMD district in California? Most quality clear coatings are going to be solvent-based to some degree. We may be able to make a much better performing garage floor coating system for you.
Amy says
No, i am in alameda county
I am interested in knowing alternatives to Rocksolid. There is too much information available on internet which is confusing. Please suggest something with in same price range.
Shea says
You will not get a high-quality, U.V. stable, and long wearing floor coating system in that price range, Amy. We discuss the pitfalls of home improvement store coating kits here. RockSolid wears fairly well and usually does not suffer hot tire pickup, but it has many complaints about cosmetic issues and sometimes requires two color coats. You will need to spend a little more if that is what you want. Roll On Rock is a commercial quality kit that is a very good value for what you get. It would be roughly the same price as RockSolid (and 3x as thick) if your floor required two color coats of RockSolid.
Amy says
I am not sure if i will need 2 coats. concrete on my garage is 4 weeks old and size is approx 415sq feet. Does Roll on Rock kit include Clear coat as well? or does that need to be purchased separately?
Also how do we decide if we need one coat or two?
Shea says
The age of the concrete makes no difference. Much depends on the surface texture and porosity. Once the color coat begins to cure, if you notice a difference in color tone, richness, and gloss, it’s going to need two coats. Yes, Roll On Rock comes with a clear coat. It’s all detailed in the article. It’s a night and day difference between the two systems.
Amy says
Spoke to Roll on Rock customer service today and found out that entire garage floor needs to be covered with chips with no visibility of base coat or else it will show yellow marks. this is certainly will give different look than rust oleum rock solid where we have chips spread across floor with visible base coat.
Shea says
Hi Amy. Sorry for the late response. Yes, Roll On Rock requires that you do a full color flake broadcast. This is the typical look that professional garage floor coating companies provide. The color flakes are U.V. stable as is the clear coat. In addition, the thick layer of color flakes provides more durability. If you elect to use Roll On Rock, it’s important that you scrape the upper layer of flakes to get them as smooth as you can before applying the clear coat.
Terrie says
What should I use in a basement that cat urine feces smell won’t go away after cleaning I want to seal it don’t care what it looks like
Shea says
Hello Terrie. First, we recommend that you read our article on how to rid concrete of pet urine odors. There are many testimonials in the comments sections about how well it works. Next, you need to determine if your basement has moisture vapor that transfers up from below the slab. This is common for basements and coatings do not tolerate it well. It can cause them to peel since the moisture vapor is caught under the coating. In addition, moisture is what activates urine crystals in concrete and causes the smell. We have an article here about moisture testing. If your basement floor does not have a moisture issue, then you can use a water-based epoxy such as EpoxyShield.