Due to the numerous emails, comment questions, and some unfortunate mistakes made when purchasing clear top coats for garage floor coatings, we have decided to post this article to help clear things up (no pun intended). Our objective here is to prevent some of the confusion, disappointment, and poor results some people have encountered when choosing a clear coat.
As a refresher, clear topcoats have many advantages when applied to a garage floor coating. Besides creating a nice, semi-gloss to glossy finish to your color coat, clear coats lock in and protect the color flakes and act as a sacrificial layer that protects the underlying base color coat.
The problem, however, is that some people are unknowingly purchasing the wrong product, poor product, or trying to apply a clear coat to paint.
This post may contain affiliate links. If you use these links to make a purchase, we may earn a small commission. As an Amazon Associate, All Garage Floors earns from qualifying purchases. You can read our full disclaimer here.
No Clear Coats for Garage Floor Paint
The first mistake is purchasing latex acrylic concrete floor paint or 1-Part epoxy paint for your garage floor with the intention of applying a clear coat to it. Paint for concrete is designed as a one-and-done product and is not intended to have a clear coating applied.
Technically, paint is not a coating. Unfortunately, marketing practices by the large companies that produce these products intentionally do not make that very clear, especially when they call it epoxy paint.
Coatings are thicker and actually seal the concrete of your garage floor while paint does not. Read here for more information about the difference between paint and coatings.
The other issue that comes up is that people tend to be unhappy with the matte finish that garage floor paint and 1-part epoxy paint provides. They then set out to find a glossy clear coat to increase the shine.
The main reason that most clear coats will not work with paint is that the majority are solvent-based. The moment that you apply it to your water-based garage floor paint, the paint may soften and sometimes even bleed into the clear as you are applying it.
Yes, we did say most clear coats will not work. However, there is a way to apply a properly performing clear coat to garage floor paint.
It requires that you rough up the surface of the paint with 120-grit sandpaper after it has dried. Sweep and then damp mop with clean water to remove the dust. Once dry, you can then apply a water-based or 100% solids epoxy clear to it.
Water-based epoxy clears designed as a topcoat are hard to find and usually expensive. A better option is Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield 100% solids clear coat. You can find it here at Amazon.
- Low odor, low VOC formula is ideal for use on interior coated or bare concrete surfaces including garages, basements, workshops and more
Prices pulled from the Amazon Product Advertising API on:
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.
Be careful not to confuse this with the optional EpoxyShield solvent-based clear coat. It needs to say 100% solids in the description.
As you can see though, it’s still three times more expensive than paint. If you are going to spend the money for an epoxy clear coat, then you should spend the money for an epoxy color coat initially and not paint.
Some of these paint companies do offer an acrylic clear that can be applied to paint. Do not use it!
These acrylic clear coats are water-based and inferior for garage use. They are designed for foot traffic such as patios and walkways.
They will soften, smudge, and/or peel the moment you spill any gasoline or brake fluid on them. Most petroleum-based products such as oil or transmission fluid can cause them to break down if it sits on it for more than a small length of time as well.
Unfortunately, we have seen some online vendors of actual 2-Part epoxy garage floor coatings offer what they call a “clear glaze coat” for a clear coat. This is an acrylic product as well. People often complain of poor performance. Again, we recommend not using it.
Home Improvement Centers Don’t Sell Clear Coats
With some exceptions, home improvement centers and hardware stores do not offer the proper clear coats for concrete coatings. They do a good job of carrying the traditional DIY epoxy garage floor kits, but most do not carry the manufacturer’s optional clear coat to go with them.
Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield is a good example. You generally need to special order the clear coat from the stores or purchase them from vendors online such as Amazon.
However, we have noticed that this trend is slowly changing. Home Depot, for example, has started carrying RockSolid’s new Polycuramine garage floor coatings and some sell the optional clear coat to go with it. Menards is another example.
What they don’t carry are commercial-quality clear coats such as polyurethane and polyurea. In addition, they do not carry high solids commercial quality epoxy color coats, and clear coats. We suggest reading our article on how to choose a clear topcoat to get a better idea about the difference between clear coats and which type may be best for you.
As a rule, home improvement centers in general are not the best place to start your search and gather information for garage floor coatings. While they may have the product that you ultimately decide is best for you, do not rely on the information that they may provide. This article will help to explain why.
Don’t Buy Polyurethane For Wood Floors
This is an unfortunate mistake that we’ve received quite a few emails about. We do applaud the fact that these people took the time to research and learn that polyurethane has many advantages over epoxy. However, they didn’t take the time to read the product label of the polyurethane that they purchased and applied to their garage floor coating.
Can you guess where these polyurethane coatings were purchased? You got it — home improvement centers and hardware stores.
The polyurethanes we are referring to are water-based and oil-based polyurethane for wood floors and furniture. Varathane and Minwax are good examples.
This type of polyurethane is not compatible with epoxy and certainly not compatible with concrete for that matter. If applied to epoxy during the recoat window, you will end up with a yellow-tinted mess that you will need to scrape up off the surface. If you are lucky, it will not have contaminated the epoxy color coat in the process.
Where Can I Buy A Clear TopCoat For My Garage Floor Coating?
If you want a clear topcoat and are thinking of purchasing a traditional garage floor epoxy kit from a home improvement center, verify first that the clear coat is available from them. If not, here are some epoxy clear coat examples from Amazon that are available.
The higher-performance clear coats such as polyurethane and polyurea are generally purchased through concrete coating vendors online. Many of our sponsors are good examples.
These vendors specialize in concrete coatings and carry a wide variety of quality products. They specialize in garage floor coatings and are a great source of information as well. This link here will provide a great list of where to purchase coating products online.
Sherwin Williams is another source if you are looking for a brick-and-mortar store to purchase from. They won’t sell their best commercial quality product to the general consumer, but they do offer some decent quality epoxy and polyurethane coatings with their ArmorSeal line of coatings.
The reason you will not find commercial quality epoxy and clear coatings at home improvement centers and hardware stores is the simple fact that they require some attention to detail to apply properly.
Home improvement centers cannot provide the type of assistance and information required for applying these types of coatings. Most kits offered by major retailers are designed to be easily applied. This is why the quality isn’t the best when compared to products offered by concrete coating vendors.
Final Tips
If you are considering a particular type of garage floor coating and are unsure about your clear coat options, take advantage of the toll-free number that the manufacturer provides and ask for assistance.
Stay within the manufacturer line if possible. For example, if you apply a garage floor coating by Rust-Oleum, then the Rust-Oleum clear coat will work with your coating. This ensures that you will not have any compatibility issues with your clear topcoat.
If you opt for a higher-performance clear coat such as polyurethane or polyurea, contact the vendor you are interested in and ask about compatibility.
If you are considering the higher-performance garage floor coatings available from online vendors, take advantage of their knowledge and experience. Give them a call or email them for information. They can help qualify you and provide options based on your needs. Plus, they are great for assisting you with questions about application and concrete preparation.
Finally, if you ever have the slightest doubt about your clear topcoat options, compatibility, or application, make sure to seek help from the vendor or manufacturer before you make your purchase. That way you are ensured a successful outcome instead of a poor and potentially costly experience.
Dean says
So here’s where I’m at. I painted my warehouse floor with gray Zinszer 1-2-3 and tossed the rust oleum speckles on it.(based on a recommendation from a local paint store) I’d like to add a clear top coat. Can I use one of the epoxy topcoats in the Amazon link to add strength and gloss finish to the floor? If so, which would you recommend. FYI- the floor is 7,000 so ft
Shea says
Hi Dean. I’m sorry. This is a great example of why home improvement centers and paint stores harm more than help. The Zinsszer 1-2-3 is just a latex acrylic primer. It works OK as a primer for a small concrete porch with a little bit of foot traffic, but it has no business being used on a warehouse floor. Plus, it’s not even designated as a wear surface. In addition, it’s intended to have colored top coats applied over it, not clear coats. If you read the technical data sheet for Zinsser 1-2-3, you can read under the heading LIMITATIONS, it states; “Not recommended for application to floors or decks“.
You would just be throwing good money after bad to add a clear coat to it. For example, you have two choices for a clear topcoat. A water-based acrylic (poor choice for a warehouse and won’t last) or a 100% solids epoxy clear (no solvents). The 100% solids epoxy will take abuse on the surface, but it’s adhered to a weak surface (Zinsser) that can peel, particularly from hot tire pickup. Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Clear Coat would be an example. It’s about the least expensive 100% solids clear you will find. One kit will cover up to 500 square feet under optimal conditions. You most likely will require 15 kits to cover 7000 square feet. At just over $100 a kit, that’s a lot of money to apply over an incorrect product and there is no guarantee that the Zinsser will not peel up, taking the epoxy clear with it. Our advice would be to leave it as is or grind it off now while you can and apply a proper coating.
Jim Cannone says
I wish I had found this site sooner – I used a 1 part epoxy coating by Behr on my garage floor – the can specifically says for driveway, garage floor, etc. Can I put a clear coat finish on this? If so, which product? Also, can I cover half of the floor let it dry and do the other half? Thank you
Shea says
Hi Jim. The product you purchased is not intended for a clear coat. Yes, the literature says in can be used for a garage, but it does not say you can clear coat it, nor does it recommend it. Behr will tell you that you can apply their water-based Wet Look acrylic clear coat, but it does horribly in a garage and their data sheets don’t recommend it for garage use. A clear coat needs to be at least as durable as the color coat if not more so. We discuss in the article what will work, but don’t recommend it because it’s more expensive than the paint and will still peel up with the paint. The one product that is available right now that will work is Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Clear Coat. It needs to be the 100% solids version. The other has solvents in it. It will require that you rough up the painted surface first with 120 grit sandpaper in order for it to adhere properly. You cannot do one half at a time unless you have a natural barrier such as a contraction joint. Otherwise, the overlap marks from the coatings are highly visible and do not look good. In addition, once you mix up the epoxy, you have a couple hours to get it applied. You can’t save it for later like paint.
Ian says
I am in the same boat as Jim. I have etched and primed and was about to apply the Behr 901. I was curious about the Wet Look sealer from Behr as I used on some natural stone backsplash recently and was happy with it.
I will not be using the garage for parking unless it snows (2 or 3 times a year – south coast of BC). The garage will be mainly for a hobby CNC, table saw, bin/tote storage and such. That said, the product data sheet for 985 does mention parking on cardboard after 14 days.
I wanted the clear coat as I thought my toddler would love the paint chip effect (blue EpoxyShield chips).
Cost is my biggest pain point as this house is a rental and I’m inclined to go cheap. So far with the Behr products (plus the flakes) I am at $120usd for the whole garage ($160usd if I use the wet look sealer) which I am happy with.
Knowing all that, do you think I could get by with the Wet Look sealer?
Thanks in advance,
Ian
PS, this site is a gem, what a great resource.
So I just went to prime the garage and noticed a spot that didnt get etched well. I have now etched that spot and waiting to dry.
Seeing as I havent primed yet and can return the primer/floor paint/chips to HD, would i better off getting the 2 part Rustoleum “gloss grey” as price difference is negligible. Is it really 5x more durable?
Thanks again,
Ian
Shea says
Hi Ian. If you haven’t primed yet and have bare etched concrete, then the Rust-Oleum 2-Part EpoxyShield would be a much better value. There is a big difference between 1-part epoxy paint and an actual epoxy coating. We discuss it in more detail here. In addition, there is a video where we go over in more detail why even the budget 2-part epoxy coatings are so much better than epoxy paint.
The Behr 1-part epoxy paint and Wet Look sealer do OK under foot traffic. We do not recommend parking your vehicles on it unless you place a mat down. Otherwise, you risk pulling the paint up with the tires.
Nancy says
Hi Shea, I’m looking for some advice. We’ve recently completed a grind/stain/seal project in our basement. We used a water-based semi-transparent stain and sealed it with two coats of Seal Krete Clear Seal gloss sealer. It looks good but doesn’t seem to be very scratch-resistant. Is there a one-part glossy product available that we can apply over the Clear Seal to make it more durable? We have pets and need a finish that will prevent and/or hide claw marks. It would be nice to also have something that will fill in the concrete surface texture rather than penetrating. I’m wishing now that we had not used the sealer as it seems to be limiting our options. Thank you so much!
Shea says
Hi Nancy. From your description, it sounds like what you have used is what we refer to as fake stains. We discuss them here. They are essentially very low solids, water-based acrylic coatings/sealers that are tinted for color. The Seal Krete Clear-Seal is the same type of product, only clear in color and slightly higher solids content. Water-based acrylic coatings are the least resistant of all coatings to abrasion and scratches. One option you have is to apply a 100% solids epoxy coating. Epoxy is much more resistant to scratching and goes on much thicker than acrylics. In addition, 100% solids epoxy is low in VOCs since there are no carrier agents (water or solvents) to evaporate out as it cures (they don’t dry like paint). Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Clear is the least expensive option. If you reduce the coverage rate to 300-350 square feet, it will go on thicker and help to smooth out the surface as well. It will require that you degloss and rough up the current surface with 120 grit sandpaper in order for the epoxy to adhere properly. If it’s a larger room, a floor maintainer with a green scrub pad will do the same thing.
Qazs says
Can I use a clear coat on the cement in my bathroom?
Shea says
Hi Qazs. Yes, you can. However, keep in mind that it will be slick when it gets wet. We highly recommend adding an anti-slip additive to the final coat.
Austin says
Hi Shea,
We used Rustoleum Rocksolid Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating over the weekend and it looks great! My question is do I need to put a clear coat on top or can I leave it as is?
Thanks!
Shea says
Hello Austin. It’s not required to add a clear coat. However, there are many benefits to applying one. This article here explains more. If you opt to add a clear coat, use RockSolid Clear. You have seven days to recoat without further prep when using RockSolid.
Touseef Khawaja says
Hi, Can I apply Rust-Oleum Rocksolid Garage Floor Coating Kit – Clear top coat over Dy-Mark Epoxy Coating with flakes?
I already have Dy-Mark Epoxy Coating with flakes done in my garage 7 days ago but I want to top it off with a clear coat for better finishing, which Dy-Mark dont provide. I have contacted Rustoleum and Dy-Mark but haven’t heard back yet.
Shea says
Hi Touseef. Yes, you can apply the RockSolid clear polycuramine over the epoxy. However, it will require that you first degloss and rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper. Wipe it down with denatured alcohol (or equivalent) and then apply the RockSolid.
Dinah says
I put down Valspar natural coat for a garage floor (which I am using for studio now) I wanted the higher gloss but my home improvement store didn’t have it. Touche. Can I purchase the highgloss option (if I can find it) and put it over the one that doesn’t look wet enough for me?
Shea says
Hello Dinah. We checked the technical data sheets for this product as well as the safety data sheets. Nothing really tells us what type of sealer this is. As a result, we can’t answer your question with authority. We suggest you contact Valspar Customer Service and inquire with them. Their number is 800-845-9061.
Dinah says
Thanks so much. I have messaged them and waiting for response. You are so prompt. I really appreciate your professionalism.
Gareth McArthur says
Howdy great info here. I have a new grey concrete garage amd driveway in Western Australia. I have found an economical product called topdek clear coat but can’t find any reviews or info on what it is exactly or unbiased feedback on product quality.
Can you advise at all?
I’m just looking to protect my grey concrete from stains and spills. It will be used as a driveway, garage and workshop. I don’t want to have to reseal it every couple years and also don’t want it yo get slippery. It is a non-skid finish.
Cheers.
Shea says
Hello Gareth. We found the safety data sheets for this product, but we couldn’t find any other information. It appears to be a solvent-based acrylic clear coat. It will most likely require reapplication every few years or so. It will work well in terms of helping to prevent staining. However, spills from solvents or gas can soften the coating and cause cosmetic damage. In addition, coatings will get slippery when they get wet. What you would need to do is mix some anti-slip media into the final coat to provide non-slip properties. This type of coating does OK for light vehicle traffic and light maintenance and repair work. It will not perform as well with heavier traffic and use. I suggest reading this article about sealers to get a better idea of what type would be best for you.
James Dietz says
Hi Shea, I am coating a 900sq.ft. ice cream shop floor with RockSolid coating and multi colored flakes to resemble ice cream sprinkles/jimmies. Because the shop has large picture windows, I want to use a polyurea clear topcoat that will give UV protection, as well as protecting the color chips. Any suggestion what I can use? Thanks so much for the insightful and helpful articles! Jim
Shea says
Hello James. Color flakes are acrylic and U.V. stable. They will not be affected by the sun. However, a U.V. stable clear topcoat will not prevent any coatings beneath it from U.V. rays. It may tone down the intensity of the rays somewhat, but the coatings beneath will still be affected. As a result, the RockSolid coating will still amber/yellow tint over time if exposed to the sun in the windows. If you use RockSolid for the color coat, then we recommend using RockSolid clear coat in order to stay compatible with the manufacturer’s warranty. If you want a stable color coat, then we recommend using a different product. DuraGrade by Rust Bullet would be a good example.
Tony says
I’ve just done my garage with Rustoleum 1 part epoxy paint in Battleship grey and added the same brand flakes. Can I put a top coat of clear over this? If so what do you recommend.
Shea says
Hi Tony. We explain exactly why your application is not designed for a clear coat in the article above. As we point out, the only clear coat product you can apply over it that will withstand vehicle traffic in a garage is a 100% epoxy clear or water-based epoxy clear. We list the product you can use in the article as well. It will require sanding the surface first to provide the proper mechanical profile or it will peel. Keep in mind that the sanding to rough up the surface will break loose some of your color flakes.
Steven Averbukh says
Can I use epoxyshield water based 2 part epoxy, then the MPC100 from amazon as a top clear coat?
Shea says
Hi Steven. Yes, that will work. Because they are both 2-part epoxy, you can apply the MPC 100 clear coat within 12 – 24 hours after the color coat to achieve a strong chemical bond.
Nancy says
Always find you all as great resource. I am (planning this weekend;)) to “re-do” my garage floor. I sealed it about 4 years ago.. Garage is used only for walk-thrus, storage and teen hangout, no cars. Using only the Rust Oleum line of products.
1.) ReCoat Reprime as it has been sealed
2.) Garage Floor Paint
3.) Sprinkles
4.) Slip Addtiive.
I would like to use Rust Oleum Top Coat, as not used for cars and such is that ok?
Also what can I use to preclean ? Not been used as a real garage since I sealed, though there is a lot of Colorado dust. Like to not have to buy Rust Oleum preclean product to save on costs. Thanks in advance, big thanks to if you all can get to answer me super fast !!
Shea says
Hello Nancy. Before addressing your questions, what are the exact paint and clear coat products that you want to use?
nancy says
This is Terrific, your fast reply!
All Rust Oleum Product Line
“Concrete & Garage Recoat Primer: No Sanding No Grinding”
“Concrete & Garage Floor Paint & Primer” Battleship Grey Satin.
Then for the Top Coat maybe (your advice please) :
“Concrete and Garage Floor Paint in Clear Shimmer Floor Topcoat”
or
“Concrete and Garage Floor Paint Floor Topcoat”
The “Shimmer top Coat ” may be too pricey
Also Plan on using R.O. Anti slip additive and The R.O. Sprinkles
Thanks really appreciate it !!! I could probably dig up the name of the sealer I put on it (3-4 years ago) tho the R.O website says the Recoat Primer will take care of it. Again only Used for storage, walk-thrus and teen hang out !;)
Thanks again! Very Exciting to get your advice
Shea says
Hi Nancy. Just to preface this for others who may read this, we would not recommend this combo for a garage with regular car traffic. However, for foot traffic it will work just fine. Either clear coat will provide the same protection. They are essentially a water-based acrylic clear. The shimmer costs more because it provides a glitter effect. The anti-slip grit needs to be mixed into the clear coat before you roll it on. If there is not enough room in the can to do so, mix it all in a separate bucket. The grit tends to sink to the bottom. So pour some of the mixture into a paint tray to roll onto the floor. Mix the bucket again to redistribute the grit and then pour more into the tray and so on. Otherwise, you will get big clumps of the grit towards the end.
Providing that the floor is not too dirty with grease and grime, you can use laundry detergent and a stiff-bristled scrub brush to clean the concrete. We have an article here on how to clean your garage floor. TSP works very well also.
nancy says
Thank You ! I will let you know how it turns out! Great resource!
nancy says
Nancy Here! Well over the weekend we had a huge May snowstorm! Colorado!Time and effort devoted to tree limbs :(.
Now we are getting a little too close to having our party (garage just used for walk thrus, storage and lots of teen hang out!) so looking at timing and cure times.
Again our plan you approved as no cars in garage
1.) Rustoleum Concrete & Garage Recoat Prime
Then after 6 hours(w/ in 48) applying
2.) Rustoleum Concrete & Garage Paint & Primer &probably with R.O’s flakes.
FYI: CURE TIME for the Garage paint RO says
Surfaces should be ready for light foot traffic in 12-16 hours and normal foot traffic in 24 hours. FOR FULL CURE AND VEHICLE TRAFFIC, ALLOW 5 DAYS. Dry times increase at cooler temperatures.
~My Question~ when do I put on the desired 3rd step that of the RO Clear Top coat.?~
I can’t find any info about timing b/w actual painting and top coating.
FYI : CURE TIME For the RO Clear Topcoat RO says: Dry and recoat times are based on 70oF and 50% relative humidity. Dry times increase at cooler temperatures. The surface should be ready for light foot traffic in 24 hours. FOR FULL CURE AND VEHICLE TRAFFIC, ALLOW 5 DAYS.
While just walk thrus and hang out place we do have to move in heavy storage units, ping pong table sofa etc.
~~ So another question in general how long will my garage be unusable ?~~
My precious teen son is anguished that he might be w/out his hang out place- schools out and teens :0;) are here all the time- should have done it earlier tho too cold of Colorado nights and heck we just had 6 ” of snow 5 days ago!!)
Shea says
Hi Nancy. Apply the clear coat within the 12-16 hour window. Just make sure the paint is not tacky. We suggest slipcovers on your shoes or wipe their bottoms first with mineral spirits to make sure they are clean. After the clear is applied you can walk (not rough house) on it within 24 hours. We don’t recommend moving anything onto the floor until 48 hours has passed. Just take care on it for a day or two after that and then you should be fine.
Gena Magrino says
We had a painter paint the garage floor with Showroom Gray INSLX Garage Guard (Benjamin Moore). He put flakes and left a section empty of flakes! Additionally we thought the floor would be shiny. What can be done to rectify the area that has no flakes as well as the fact that we wanted it shiny? Thank you!
Shea says
Hi Gena. INSL X Garage Guard is a budget-minded, low solids water-based epoxy coating. Water-based coatings such as these can only create a satin finish. It’s unfortunate about the missing area of flakes. Painters are the worst when it comes to coatings. They all make the same mistakes and think coatings are applied exactly like paint. Did he properly etch the concrete first?
One option you have is to apply a clear coat that would be more glossy. It will not make the color coat glossy, but the finish of the clear coat would be. Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Clear Coat is a good example. You can find it here on Amazon. It will require that you degloss the current coating with 150 grit sandpaper in order for it to adhere properly. You may lose a few color flakes in the process, but most should remain. As far as the spot that does not have any flakes, you can always toss some into the clear coat immediately after it is applied. It won’t quite look the same as the ones that are coated, but it would be better than what you have now.
Adelaida says
I want to know what clear coat I can use to seal a logo that I’ll be paiting in a concrete floor from a mechanic shop
Shea says
Hello Adelaida. What type of paint is being used? Is the rest of the floor getting the same clear coat treatment? If not, will people, rolling tool boxes, floor jacks, or cars be driving over it?
Kristin says
What an awesome site! So here’s my plight where I clearly wneed your sage advice. I hired someone to epoxy my floor…they cleaned up, and grinded down my jenky old cement garage floor and then applied epoxy (white tint) with flakes (Hybrid Stone Epoxy Flake 25lbs (B-4103 Travertine) Brand: Concrete Floor Supply) and, after two coats of white and one med broadcast of flakes, the floor looked gorgeous! Then, the next day, he applied the ‘clear coat’ which I was told would make the floor off-white/yellow (which indeed it did). I wasn’t crazy about it (esp as part of it extends past the garage door which means it will get even more yellow in the UV light over time), but I decided to call it ‘soft-white’ and move on with my life . 😉 Only problem was by EOD you could see that the ‘clear coat’ had been applied unevenly, leaving ‘watermark’ looking stains across the width of the garage and, in other parts, 6″ – foot-long white ‘streaks’ were visible where the clear epoxy did not get applied. Ack!
We’re preparing to re-do tomorrow, ie: sand down the tea-stained mess a bit to take off the sheen and re-apply yet another white tinted epoxy coat with another broadcast of flakes. Here’s my question…is it ok to leave it there and skip the clear coat altogether or do we attempt the clear coat again — note: he got the same brand as before (as I understand sticking within a brand is ideal), but it’s a different kind of topcoat this time, a clear topcoat that’s thinner so theoretically easier to apply. Brand is Simiron 1100SL 100% solids epoxy (clear base, activator and white tint) plus Simiron clear/gloss activator 971EPS. Been watching lots of youtube videos in attempt to grasp at least a basic awareness of this rather complicated process, but ‘youtube knowledge’ can only take a girl so far. 😉 Any advice?
Shea says
Hi Kristin. Clear epoxy is not a true clear. It has a very slight amber or brown tint to it. It’s not very noticeable unless applied over a very light color such as white. Once the new coat of white is applied, we highly recommend applying a clear coat of polyurethane, polyurea, or polyaspartic. These are “water clear” coatings that are also U.V. stable and will not amber. They will also wear better. We checked the Simiron website and what we would recommend is their 85% solids polyaspartic. This is a high gloss, water clear coating with much higher abrasion resistant ratings than epoxy. It will keep the bright white look and last for years. It needs to be applied within 24 hours of the white epoxy. If you go past that window, it requires deglossing the surface first by roughing it up with 120 grit sandpaper.
Emily says
Oh yeah, now I am nervous. I want to paint a section of previously painted and peeling in spots concrete floor with stencils (so a few, specific colors) and then clear coat it to seal it. This area needs to handle lots of potentially gritty traffic and mopping since it’s in a pottery studio. (Clay will end up on the floor but all spills will likely be not of an oily variety.) With the options out there what is my best bet? I do have some latex paint in the colors I want (from doing walls in the adjacent room) that I was going to use but is this even doable? My thoughts were these:
TSP wash, scrape, and light sanding.
Paint with latex paint
Cover with either several coats of water based poly or clear epoxy with something like sharkgrip in it to keep it from being slippery.
Am I close? Is this doable? Thank you so much for helping. I am finding lots of incomplete information or not exactly covering my scenario in my searching.
Shea says
Hi Emily. We need a bit more information. Do you intend to clear coat the entire pottery studio floor or just a section of it?
Emily says
Just a section. I have already laid used LVP (so less waterproof since it has been taken up and then relaid) in the area that does not get as much traffic and potential slop. The painted portion would butt up against the LVP portion. Does that matter? I was just going to lay a rubber transition piece when both are done.
Shea says
OK, that makes more sense, Emily. We highly recommend removing any paint that currently remains in that area. The paint was/is peeling for a reason. If you paint over it, then you stand a good chance of more paint peeling up and taking the new paint and clear coat with it. TSP and light sanding of the concrete is fine for latex paint. Once the paint is applied let it dry completely. You will then need to prep the paint surface for a clear coat since actual coatings are not chemically compatible and will not bond otherwise. What is required is to degloss the painted surface by roughing it up with 150 grit sandpaper and then wipe it down with denatured alcohol to remove all remaining dust and oils. If denatured alcohol is not available, you can use a 70% or higher Isopropyl alcohol. Just give it 10-15 minutes to completely dry. Don’t worry about the paint looking dull and scratched. The clear coat will make it all disappear and brighten it back up.
We recommend using a clear water-based polyurethane for concrete. Polyurethanes are water clear and do not have an amber tint as epoxy does. DO NOT USE POLYURETHANE FOR WOOD FLOORS. Varethane is an example. It needs to be polyurethane for concrete coatings. The clear coat is going to be expensive since it’s a high-performance product and can usually only be purchased in amounts no less than a gallon. Here is an example. Most water-based polyurethane coatings have a satin finish. If want something glossy, then you can apply RockSolid Clear Coat. You can find it at Amazon. This is a polycuramine that is water-clear and safe to use on latex paint. One coat of either product should be sufficient. Mix the SharkGrip in with the coating before application.
Both products require mixing part A and B components. If want to apply two coats, you can’t mix it all at once. The reason is that the remaining product will cure in the bucket before you reach the 10 – 24 hour recoat window. You will need to mix only what you need in the proper ratios if you want more coats. The SharkGrip always goes in the final coat.
Tracy says
I am getting ready to apply “Stone Coat” metallic epoxy to my back porch floor (concrete). They said a top coat wasn’t really needed….but I kind of want one anyway. Their “top coat” looks super thin and is pretty expensive. Would you recommend something?
Shea says
Hello Tracy. Does your back porch see any sunlight? If so, you don’t want to apply epoxy since it is not U.V. stable. It will amber (yellow tint) over a period of time. This article here explains why. In terms of the clear top coat, we would never install a metallic epoxy coating without one. The reason is that most metallics are very glossy and darker in color. As a result, they will highlight every little scratch and mark on the surface. A proper clear top coat helps protect the color coat better from scratching. It is the wear coat and should perform just as well if not better than epoxy. Typically, the clear coat will be a polyurethane or polyurea. These are thinner coatings. The thinner nature has no bearing on performance. Stone Coat does not indicate what their clear coat is or provide any data sheets. We have know idea what it is.
Tracy says
Thanks so much for the quick response! I should’ve stated that it is an enclosed back porch with only a few windows, so very little sun will shine in (especially with the curtains up).
So you are saying definitely do a top coat (polyurethane or polyurea) and that the thickness of the top coat really doesn’t matter…it still does it’s job of protection???
And if I do a polyurethane or polyurea top coat…if it’s within 24 hours of applying the epoxy metallic flood coat, I am okay applying it without sanding first?
Thanks so much for what you do!
Tracy
Shea says
Hi Tracy. Yes, you are correct on both counts. The number one rule with clear top coats is that they should perform just as well and preferably better than the color coat. The top coat is what incurs wear and abuse. It’s not unusual for the clear top coat will be more expensive than the color coat. Most important is to compare the data sheets of the products you are using in order to know the wear or abrasion ratings. Just a tip to consider but is not required… Many contractors that install metallic epoxy floors will purposely wait 24 hours and then sand the metallic epoxy with 150-grit sandpaper. It is then wiped down with denatured alcohol applied liberally to a microfiber mop pad. This removes many imperfections, bumps, etc., and creates a glassy smooth finish when applying the clear coat.
Dan says
I painted a concrete floor in a basement laundry room with 2 coats of Kilz All-purpose Multi-Surface, and then two more coats of Behr Porch and Patio Floor Paint (100% acrylic latex, according to the can). Finally, a stenciled tile pattern with a colored version of the same Behr paint. I’m looking for something like a clear topcoat with a matte finish that will seal everything in and prevent flaking and scratching, and also won’t cause the tile pattern to bleed as you alluded to in the article. Any suggestions?
Shea says
Hi Dan. What you need to use is a water-based acrylic sealer. These can usually be applied directly to paint without further prep. They are not good for a garage, but tend to do OK with foot traffic only. They are not the best at resisting scratching, but they do help to protect the color coat. If scratches develop, you can lightly sand and reapply.
You can use Behr Low-Lustre Sealer if you like. Rust-Oleum has a new acrylic as well. It’s available in a matte or satin textured finish. You can view it here. The key when applying acrylics is thin-to-win. Two thin coats are much better than one thick one. Acrylic clears develop problems when laid down thick.
Dan says
Thank you so much for the quick response. I’ll check these out. Thanks for the help!
Sara says
We just did our garage floor with epoxy Rust-Oleum , & turned out nice, can we use a walmart brand of sealant, instead of Rust-Oleum sealant ?
Shea says
Hi Sara. We need more information than that. What is the exact Rust-Oleum product that you used (full name) and what is the product exactly that you are considering from Walmart?
Jonathan says
Hello. I just finished painting our basement with Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield 2 part water based epoxy and I wanted to know what clear coat you would recommend. Would we need to apply one or two coats of the clear coat? Also, if we apply two coats would we add a non-slip additive in the first coat or the second? Our plan is to make part of our basement into a playroom for our kids. We have anti slip paint on our porch and the grit is pretty intense. Would a clear coat with non-slip additive be as gritty? Would the non- slip make it difficult to clean the floor?
Thanks!!!
Shea says
Hi Jonathan. We recommend that you use EpoxyShield Clear Coat. It’s a 100% solids clear epoxy with no VOCs. Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield allows up to 4 days to apply another coat before the surface needs additional prep (degloss and rough up with 120-grit sandpaper). Any other low VOC clear coat requires roughing up the surface if you are past 24 hours. The kit comes with an anti-slip additive that you need to mix into the final coat. It’s barefoot safe and easy to clean. Just make sure to remix the additive each time you pour some coating into the paint tray. Otherwise it will sink to the bottom and clump. Each clear kit covers up to 500 square feet. However, it gets very thin at that coverage rate. If you are covering more than 400 square feet per kit, then we recommend two coats.
Michael Billy says
Can I paint my garage floor with Rust-Oleum oil base paint and chip it at the same time. Than after say 24-48 hours coat it with POLYASPARTIC clear coating? Or what would be the best coating to use than chip it and again use POLYASPARTIC. The floor is chipped now and only a few spots have peeled up. I did a fix with color and a few chips with a touch of epoxy in those few spots. It’s holding up just fine I want to do a recoat.
Shea says
Hi Michael. Polyaspartic coating are not compatible with paint, whether it be oil-based or water-based. Polyaspartic coatings bond with similar exothermic coatings that chemically cure (not dry like paint) and tightly crosslink into very durable coatings. This article here explains the differences. If you want to use a polyaspartic clear coat, then a polyaspartic, polyure, or 2-part epoxy colored base coat with optional color flakes needs to be applied to bare concrete, followed by the polyaspartic clear coat within 2-24 hours depending on which base coat was used. The coats will chemically bond together. If there is paint on the concrete currently, it needs to be removed via grinding to prep the surface properly. Lastly, an expensive high-performance clear coat is a waste of money when applied to an inferior color coat. The entire coating will peel due to the base coat being paint. I hope that helps.
Sam says
Hi- great article here. I am a new homeowner and past owner put an 2 part oil based bottom coat and put the flakes on and left it. They did this right before we moved in. What’s the best option for topsealer now? The garage has not been used so should be easier from a labor perspective. How do I pre-clean garage to get leftover flakes and dirt/paver sand out also? I would like a high quality topseal that will last and not a cheap one from box store- ie HD or Lowes. How long will it last before resealing? Is that just cleaning the garage and adding another layer on. THANKS!!
Shea says
Hi Sam. Just so that you understand, the weak link is going to be the oil-based paint. It does not adhere nearly as well as an actual coating, nor does it have the higher heat tolerance (hot tires). Plus, do you know what type of concrete prep was done before it was applied? As a result, you may still experience peeling or hot tire pick up since it’s the paint that is adhered to the concrete and not the clear coat. Your safest bet for a clear coat that will perform very well would be a 100% solids epoxy. Because there are no solvents in 100% solids epoxy, you do not run the risk of it softening the oil-based paint during application. In addition, it will average 7-9X thicker than the paint depending on the coverage rate used. 150 square feet per gallon is the average. The one drawback to epoxy though is that it’s not U.V. stable. This means that it can amber (yellow tint) at some point if it’s exposed to direct sunlight for periods of time. A polyurea or polyurethane clear coat is U.V. stable, but they have solvents and could possibly soften the paint during application which could turn into a big mess. High solids commercial epoxy can be purchased from a variety of vendors online. Here is an example of a good product from Amazon. Here is another from our sponsor Legacy Industrial.
Application will require that you clean and degrease the surface first. It then needs to be roughed up with 120-150 grit sandpaper in order for the epoxy to achieve a mechanical bond. Otherwise it will peel. Sweep/vac and then wipe the surface with denatured alcohol (or equivalent) applied to a microfiber mop pad. Give it 15 minutes or so to dry and then apply the epoxy. A 100% solids epoxy will last 10 years or more depending on how the garage is used.
Nathalie Brewer says
I am a teacher. Our students have painted an outdoor mural on a concrete pathway in our school (using exterior house paint). We now want to seal it with a semi gloss, clear top-coat that is UV and water resistant but wont yellow or bleed our mural under it. It has to also withstand some foot traffic. Can you please advise?
Shea Walker says
Hi Nathalie. We would recommend using Rust-Oleum Clear Finish Topcoat. It’s water-based so it will not cause the paint to bleed as well as U.V. stable (no yellowing). They have offer a gloss finish and matte finish. The gloss can usually be found at your local home improvement centers or here from Amazon. The matte finish is harder to find, but you can order it here from Amazon if you can’t source it locally.
Charlie Hartman says
We would like to apply ROCKSOLID FLOORS Rust-Oleum 282829 RockSolid Polycuramine on a concrete floor that we etched with copperus which gives the concrete a varied rustic appearance. Can we apply the Rust-Oleum product to our floors and achieve a glossy look?
Shea Walker says
Hello Charlie. As long as the copper pigment has not impeded the ability of the concrete to absorb liquid, then you can use the RockSolid Clear Coat.
Charlie Hartman says
Thank you for the quick reply.