There is an abundance of confusion today among homeowners looking to apply paint or a coating to their garage floor. Should it be epoxy paint or an epoxy coating? Is there a difference? If so, which is best? It’s not always easy to tell since many of the DIY garage floor kits available today use these terms interchangeably.
As a result, it is very important to learn the distinction between paint, epoxy paint, and epoxy coatings. Doing so will eliminate confusion and enable you to make an informed decision. This is vital if you want to obtain the expected looks and performance for your garage floor.
We are the first to acknowledge that the marketing for DIY paint and epoxy can be misleading. If you don’t know EXACTLY what type of product you are purchasing, then you may end up being one of the unhappy consumers with ruined expectations for epoxy flooring.
What is Epoxy Paint?
The term “epoxy paint” came about years ago when paint and coating manufacturers took notice of the terminology that the DIY public was using when searching for epoxy garage floor coatings. They were intermixing “paint” with “coating” without knowing the difference.
As a result, marketing decisions were made and many well-known DIY epoxy floor coating companies decided to brand their products as “epoxy paint” since that is what consumers seemed to be calling it.
Unfortunately, it has only made things more confusing for the consumer. Chances are that when you see something advertised as epoxy paint for your garage, it could be 1-part epoxy paint or it could be an epoxy coating.
This has led to many people buying paint for their garage floor when what they thought they were purchasing was an epoxy coating. This is why it’s so important to learn what epoxy paint and epoxy coatings are.
Commercial quality DIY epoxy kits available from concrete coating vendors online are called coatings. As a result, there is no confusion.
Epoxy Coatings are not Paint
The first misnomer that we want to address is that an epoxy coating is not paint. The two are not chemically compatible and should not be used together whenever possible.
Paint consists of 4 basic ingredients. The first three are pigments, binders, and additives. The fourth is a carrier agent that these ingredients are suspended in. This will be primarily water or solvents.
Once applied, the pigments, binders, and some additives are deposited onto the concrete as the carrier agent evaporates out during the drying process.
The binders are what provide performance, support, and adhesion for the pigments. They bind or hold them together in a thin film on the concrete surface. Most garage floor paints are water-based and use latex acrylic polymers to bind the pigments together.
Typical additives include thickening agents and surfactants. They provide for easier application and prevent pigments from separating.
The amount of pigment, binders, and additives that are left on the surface after drying is referred to as the solids content. It is measured by weight and volume.
Volume is what determines how thick the paint will be and how much material is left on the concrete after evaporation when applied at the recommended coverage rate. Most concrete paint has a solids content of 29-33%. The rest is water and some solvents.
This means that once applied, the wet film thickness (WFT) of the paint shrinks approximately 67-71% as the water evaporates out. What you are left with is a very thin dry film thickness (DFT) of approximately 1.0 mils. A sheet of paper is roughly 3 mils thick for reference.
Garage floor paint is the least expensive option and the poorest performing. Most standard concrete paints for porches, patios, and garages use a latex acrylic binder. Though latex may work well for walls, it’s not a good match for garage traffic.
Paint does not seal the concrete. It will peel up from hot car tires. Solvents, brake fluid, gas, and other harsh chemicals will discolor and many times soften the paint. This can cause it to smear or delaminate when cleaning up.
In addition, it is only available in a satin finish and is not intended for clear coats. We get many questions about clear coats for paint which we discuss here.
The primary benefits of concrete paint are that it’s cheap and fairly easy to touch up. In essence, paint is a short-lived and budget-minded option.
What is 1-Part Epoxy Paint?
1-Part epoxy garage floor paint uses modified latex acrylic binders as well. However, it also includes a small amount of epoxy ester resin as an additive. The epoxy resin helps the acrylic binders to create a more durable paint film with better adhesion properties. However, it is not an epoxy coating.
The amount of epoxy resin is not included in the technical data sheets. This is because listing the exact additives is not required. However, it is not much since the average solids content is only 1-4% greater than standard concrete paint. As a result, the DFT is only slightly thicker at 1 – 1.5 mils.
Like standard latex acrylic garage floor paint, 1-Part epoxy paint is not a sealer, it is only available in a satin finish, and is not intended to be clear coated. Some may be marketed as paint and primer in one.
And no matter how big or bold the print on the can states that it is “hot tire resistant”, it WILL peel up from hot tires at some point. Just not as fast as standard concrete paint.
It will resist some automotive chemicals, salt, and grease better than standard concrete paint, but the increase in resistance is not substantial.
It does wear a little longer, particularly under foot traffic. If vehicle traffic will not be introduced, then 1-Part epoxy paint can be a good budget option for a garage or workshop that won’t see heavy use or exposure to strong chemicals.
See our Recommended Picks for 1-Part Epoxy Paint
If paint is the only option in the budget, then spending a few dollars more per gallon for 1-Part epoxy paint over standard concrete paint is worth the investment.
What Makes an Epoxy Coating Different than 1-Part Epoxy Paint?
An epoxy coating is a two-component thermosetting polymer. It consists of one part epoxy resin and one part polyamine hardener. The hardener acts as a catalyst. When the two parts are mixed before application, a chemical reaction is started that results in an exothermic or heat-generating process.
Once the two parts are mixed, you are limited by time and temperature as to how long you have to apply it. This is referred to as the pot life.
The resin component is tinted to give the epoxy color. The hardener component is always clear. If the resin component is not tinted, then it is considered a clear epoxy.
Unlike paint that binds into a thin film while it dries, epoxy chemically cures. The chemical reaction creates a tight cross-linking of the two components. This forms an extremely hard and durable coated surface that seals the concrete and can be highly stain and chemical resistant.
In addition, it achieves a much stronger bond than paint when applied to a properly prepared concrete surface. Epoxy requires etching the concrete at the minimum (as do most coatings) before application.
Furthermore, subsequent coats that are applied during the recoat window will achieve an extremely strong chemical bond with each other. Paint cannot do this.
How thick and how well an epoxy coating performs is determined by the quality of the epoxy resin, formula, and most importantly, the solids content. Generally, the higher the solids content, the better performing epoxy will be.
Epoxy coatings for concrete and garage floors can have a solids content that ranges from 42% – 100%. The solids content will also determine the length of the pot life and ease of application.
Low solids epoxy can have a pot life of up to two hours. It is usually applied with a roller out of a paint tray. Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield is an example.
High solids epoxy can have a pot life as short as 30 minutes and needs to be poured out onto the concrete in ribbons immediately after mixing. It is then spread around by a squeegee or roller and then back rolled to finish. If left in the bucket, it will get hot and be unusable within minutes.
The less expensive DIY epoxy paint kits that you can buy at your local home improvement center or hardware store are water-based and have a semi-gloss finish. Colors are typically limited to Tan/Beige and Gray. They have an average solids content by volume of 42-53%.
When applied at the recommended coverage rate, they will achieve a dry film thickness of 2.5 – 3.5 mils. This type of epoxy is easier to apply as well as cheaper to buy. It goes on the floor almost as easily as paint does.
Easy application is one of the primary marketing points that makes these kits so popular to purchase. They can be applied to your garage floor more easily compared to premium high solids epoxy.
Read: Learn What to Expect with Inexpensive DIY Epoxy Kits
Commercial quality epoxy kits can have a solids content ranging from 80-100% and typically have a very glossy finish. In addition, they are available in a large range of colors other than tan and gray.
The dry film thickness for commercial quality, high solids epoxy can range from 8 – 12 mils when applied with a roller. 100% solids epoxy can be applied even thicker in one application.
High solids epoxy is more durable, it hides imperfections in the concrete better, it does not experience hot tire pickup, and lasts years longer. In addition, it is more stain and chemical resistant than lower solids epoxy.
Read: Learn the Basics of How to Compare Epoxy Coatings
The pot life for high solids epoxy can range from 30 – 50 minutes depending on the temperature and solids content. It can be a little more difficult to work with during application because of the thicker viscosity and limited time to apply it.
Though the pot life is limited, it can still be easily applied in the required amount of time as long as you plan your application steps out ahead of time. Our article on garage floor coating application explains this in detail.
Final Thoughts
Whenever in doubt about what you are purchasing, always review the technical data sheets. These will detail exactly what type of product you are purchasing. In addition, they provide very important information regarding application and durability.
So don’t fall for the epoxy marketing name game when deciding on what you want to apply to your garage floor. As you can see, epoxy paint and epoxy coating may or may not mean the same thing. Do your research first, as this will help you to understand the type of epoxy you are purchasing and what kind of results to expect.
Jason Wright says
Hi. Nice article. Can you use flakes with 1 part epoxy paint?
Thanks.
Shea says
Yes you can Jason. Just remember that you can’t put a clear coat over 1-Part epoxy paint.
David Larson says
I really enjoy tuning in to read your articles, as I find them to be very unbiased and your content subject matter is very well-researched. Do you guys, by chance, have a blog that a fellow professional can sign up for? I often like to share your articles on my Facebook business page. Thank you.
Shea says
Hello David and thanks for the kind words. No, we don’t have a members only forum, but feel free to share what you like of our articles.
Ed Pomeroy says
Can epoxy cover a previously painted cement floor?
If not, what would you recommend to use?
Shea says
If the floor is paint and not epoxy, then it’s best to remove the paint first via grinding Ed. Epoxy is only as good as what it is adhered to and paint does not bond as well to concrete as epoxy does. It would need to be a water based epoxy as well if you were going to do this. Most other epoxies have various levels of solvents in them which will soften the paint and cause a mess. If it’s a true epoxy coating that is adhered well and not peeling up, then you can apply your epoxy product of choice over that. This article explains how to do that.
Barbara Lasley says
We painted our garage years ago with the the big box store, two-part Epoxy , with the speckles & put the sealer on top, it is peeling and chipping in lots of places, Can I paint over this,? And if so is there anything special I need to do?
Shea says
We have an article about how to do that here Barbara. If the coating is peeling in multiple areas it’s generally best to grind and remove it all to assure the best results. If you apply a new coating over one that is peeling everywhere, it will just result in the new coating peeling up with old.
Carinne says
Hi,
We thinking of applying epoxy coating to our kitchen walls which is near to the basin to avoid the water sip into the wall and spoilt my cabinet when it in touch with water. Is this applicable? Beside that, i have another concern, is it contagious to apply at kitchen walls because is near to gas stove and it is a cooking area? If is not safe, is there any recommendation coating that we can use?
Thank you.
Shea says
Hello Carinne. Epoxy is designed for use on concrete and not interior walls. Because it takes a long time to cure, it will run and sag when applied to a smooth verticle surface. Also, it will cause drywall to get soggy and soft because of the slow cure time.
Joseph says
I bought a Rustoleum RockSolid Epoxy kit in the 2.5 car garage size and found that it wasn’t enough to completely cover my garage floor. I hadn’t considered the fact that this material isn’t available for sale outside the kit, which means I have to spend $200 per kit for more material. I’m considering finishing the other section of my garage with Drylok E1 Paint, and using it to recover the epoxy section as well. Would this paint have problems adhering to the cured epoxy floor? I plan to sand it, but If it’s just going to peel anyway I may have to spend the additional money for more Epoxy.
Shea says
You are comparing apples to oranges here Joseph. The Rust-Oleum is an actual 2-part thermosetting polymer mixture that cures to an extremely hard coating that is approximately 3 mils thick. Drylok is a 1-part latex paint with some epoxy added for durability that dries (it does not chemically cure) to approximately 1 mil thickness. The two are not compatible. We suggest reading this article that explains the differences.
Dave says
I am looking to epoxy coat lead bullets. I read that you can use Rustoleum epoxy appliance paint but the result doesn’t seem to add any thickness to the bullets and does tend to wear off when the bullets are fired, defeating the purpose of using it. Is there a better epoxy product that will cure harder and add a thou or two thickness to the bullets that I could use. Looking at a fast cure product if possible. I would have to apply twice to coat the entire bullet unless it can be applied by sloshing the bullets in a pail and dumping them out.
Shea says
Hello Dave. It sounds like you were using paint and not epoxy. Read here to learn the difference between the two. This is an example of their epoxy coatings. Keep in mind it takes a few days for epoxy to fully cure and you only have a limited pot life once it’s mixed. You may want to look at a 1-part moisture cure polyurea. Nohr-S by Legacy Industrial has almost unlimited pot life when left in the can. You could dip bullets in that or pour a little out at a time an mix them in it. They sell it in quart cans if you wanted to give it a try.
Terry Gilmore says
I volunteer at an animal shelter and we need to coat/recoat dog kennel, indoor floors. Some floors have been epoxied and some have the old, hard real lino. What coating would be best to stand up to daily water, bleach, urine, claws? Thanks!
Shea says
Hello Terry. A high solids epoxy will work well. The home improvement centers won’t be able to help you with product. We suggest contacting one of our sponsors. Garage Flooring LLC is a great place to start. Ask for Justin. He can help you with the right product.
Glen says
I’m looking for a waterproof coating system for my PWF (permanent wood foundation) plywood floors in my basement utility room. Will epoxy coatings adhere to this pressure treated wood?
Shea says
Most will Glen with proper prep. Generally sanding with 60 grit sandpaper will suffice. We suggest contacting Scotty from Legacy Industrial. They carry a special flexible epoxy “bridging primer” that is made to adhere to wood and bridge the small gaps. If you want color, then a color coat of polyurea on top would be the best choice since it is more flexible than standard epoxy.
Don says
Looking to hire a contractor to coat my 750 sqft garage floor. Trying to compare epoxy coatings with polyaspartic coatings or hybrid polymer coatings. Any insight you can share would be appreciated. Thanks.
Shea says
Hello Don. What is important is to ask to see the technical data sheets on the product the contractors are using. This will give you a better idea of the performance characteristics of the coatings. Many floor coating contractors are pushing polyurea and polyaspartic coatings these days. The main reason is they can be installed in one day which can be a big benefit for some consumers, but it is generally the more expensive option. They are a thinner floor coating system, however, since polyurea/polyaspartic coatings typically are only two coats (one color and one clear). This isn’t necessarily a bad thing as many of these systems perform very well. Epoxy systems are generally a minimum of three coats (if not more), consisting of a primer coat, high solids epoxy color coat, and then a clear coat. Hybrid polymer coatings are usually an epoxy primer coat, colored epoxy base coat and a polyurea or polyaspartic top coat. The “hybrid” is just a marketing term to make is sound superior to other systems.
If you just park your cars in the garage with only occasional maintenance or projects any one of these systems will do great. However, if you plan on the garage doing more than that, we favor a high solids, multiple coat epoxy system with a high performance clear coat. Compare pricing and the data sheets to get a better idea of what you are getting for your investment and if it fits with how you plan to use your garage.
Don says
Thanks–we will just be parking cars in the garage; however, want the product to last. The polyaspartic guy says that his product expands and contracts with the floor and epoxy doesn’t. Is that claim true and important? Don
Shea says
No, it’s not exactly true Don. He is applying the characteristics of polyurea/polyurea incorrectly in order to gain a sale. Polyurea/polyaspartic is more flexible than epoxy, so that part is true. In fact, epoxy does not flex much at all and is considered brittle if you try to flex it, whereas polyurea/polyaspartic can actually bend. However, epoxy is also extremely hard – much harder than polyurea/polyaspartic. That’s why epoxy has been so successful for so many years and is the preferred coating for many warehouse and manufacturing facilities. Concrete surfaces (including garage floors) do not expand and contract at all to make a difference either way. The flexibility of polyurea/polyaspartics do make them more abrasion resistant and scratch resistant, however. That is why they are a popular top coat option for epoxy. Polyurethane has similar performance and is a popular top coat option as well.
If the contractor is using good product then a properly applied polyurea/polyaspartic system will last many years for the way you plan on using your garage floor. Again, ask to see the data sheets if you want to check for yourself. If the contractor shies away from providing them, it’s a telltale sign they don’t want you to know what they use.
Victor de Souza says
Hi I’ve bought a brand-new new built house and it’s a brand-new garage with a concrete floor and we would like to paint which lasts longer.can you advise me on this please .thank you in advance
Shea says
Hello Victor. There is not a paint available that will last a long time. What you need is an actual resinous coating such as epoxy, polyurea, polyaspartic, and etc. Despite your concrete being new, most coatings require that you prep the surface of the concrete by acid etching or grinding in order to open up the pores at the surface and provide a mechanical bite. These type of coatings when installed as a system of a base color coat and clear top coat will last 10 to 15 years, sometimes more. We suggest you read this article about the advantages of epoxy coatings and then the subsequent articles about different coatings and products. If you don’t like the idea of having to prep the concrete as required by most coatings, one exceptionf to this requirement is Rust Bullet. You can read about it here. Though it is marketed as a paint, it really isn’t. It is a resinous moisture cured coating that performs very well.
Konni says
We want remove our carpet and linoleum on our main floor about 800sq ft. and have our concrete stained and sealed. We have 2 dogs and 2 teens so needs to be durable. We are prepping our home to sell and don’t want to over spend because the edition we live in sells homes fast to companies who rent them out or people buy your home at asking price or little less usually. Should we do this our go linoleum or tile? We were quoted $5per sq ft to do first choice (concrete stain & seal). We are on a tight budget. Also have to have entire inside house painted plus all downstairs ceiling. We must make wise decisions with our $. We are in Fishers, In. You recommend any company’s. We aren’t handy people so have to hire others. Thank you for your advice and wisdom😊We appreciate you!
Shea says
Staining and sealing concrete requires prep work Konni. Glue has to be removed, carpet tack divits repaired, and sometimes the concrete will need grinding. Since you are not doing this yourselves, most of the expense incurred is in the labor involved. It would be much less expensive to redo the floor in linoleum or carpet if you are hiring the work out.
Jim says
Hello, I’m removing some old cut-back from my concrete floor in the basement and want to try a colored epoxy coating in the bathroom. I figured it would hold up better than tile or other flooring since there would be a chance of water on it from the shower. Also think with the right color it would look good. My question is after I grind off the cut back will I need to do more to the floor before putting the epoxy on. It’s an older concrete floor with some cracks and some chipped spots.
Shea says
Just grind down to fresh bare concrete Jim. Repair your cracks and chip spots, grind them flush, and then you will be ready to go. If you are applying a high solids commercial quality epoxy, then a primer epoxy is recommended to be applied first. If you are applying a lower solids home improvement store kit, then a primer is not needed.
Kanchi says
What is the best painting colour can I use to paint my garage floor because it was mess with oil and it’s looks dirty.
Shea says
The best colors for a garage floor are generally light tans (beige) and grays. They go well with other colors and don’t show the dirt as much as darker colors do. Keep in mind that the oil stains and dirt will need to to be cleaned up first before painting.
Amy says
We are looking to coat a cement deck on the front of our house, it does have a roof over it. We tried painting it several times with products recommended by the ‘home improvement’ clerks. The paint starts flaking soon after applying and won’t stand up to cleaning. Someone recommend ‘2 part epoxy’ but all I’m seeing is that it’s only for indoors.
Advise please
Shea says
Hello Amy. You are correct, epoxy is only for indoors. However, we recommend contacting ArmorPoxy. They have coatings made specifically for the outdoors, patios, and pool decks. They can help advise you what will work and give you an estimate for the required materials.
Blitzkryg says
Great info! Any thoughts on the Armor Garage Armor II Commercial epoxy? I’m asking for their technical data sheet but thought I would ask in parallel. Thanks
Shea says
Armor Garage sells excellent commercial quality product Blitzkryg. If you have any questions about prep or application, be sure to give them a call.
Scott says
Have an old cement shower that has been coated with an epoxy about ten years ago and who really knows before that, the place was a WW2 naval housing remodel in San Diego. Some moisture got under some of the old paint due to cracking, and some mold formed as well. Need to refinish, suggestions?
I should add, there will be some old redwood trim and, a green board panel for the he ceiling, and an unknown patching substance on the cement from who knows when, it has a beigish color compared to the cement. Assume they all might have the moisture and or mold problem. Sorry, it is an odd old space. Any help is appreciated.
Shea says
Hello Scott. When ever you are renovating, it’s best to get rid of anything suspected of mold or mildew. Are the beige patched areas in good shape and of a cementitious substance? Also, does they coating just cover the floor pan area or does it go up the wall as well?
Allison says
Hi , I have gutted my laundry room down to the studs because our 19 yr old cat keeps missing the litter box. We want to replace the floor with epoxy but also want to come up the walls about 2 ft or less. We are putting plywood for the subfloor & then on top of that Can we use durarock or will epoxy adhere better to cement? We will also put durarock or cement on bottom of wall . Also , what is the best epoxy for this & will the epoxy just drip down the walls ? Do we need a different type of applicator for the walls ? Sorry for all the questions & thank you in advance. I am going into this completely blind & don’t want to run into any problems that we didn’t think of once we start because i know timing is an issue because it cures fast. I also forgot to mention our laundry room is about 10×8
Shea says
Hi Allison. Epoxy, as well as other floor coatings, are designed and work best on concrete. They will not work well with durarock. Most epoxy can be used on walls if applied thinly with at least two coats. 1-part polyurea coatings may be a good choice for you. There is no mixing of part-A and Part-b products and they tend to have a longer working pot life. They will also cure much quicker which helps to reduce sagging on walls. Nohr-S by Legacy Industrial and SPGX by ArmorPoxy are some examples. Also, don’t hesitate to call some of these vendors/suppliers for advice. They are experts in coatings and far more helpful than the home improvement centers.
Kate Belas says
Hi. Very informative article! Thanks.
My question is rather strange. I found a piece of fabric with a very nice print and I want to dress it over some plywood and hang it up as a wall hanging. Can I use epoxy coating over it to prevent it from gathering dust, staining, or fading? Also to give it a glossy, high end look. I’m thinking the 100% epoxy could work. What do you think? Would regular wood varnish work?
Shea says
Hi Kate. I’m sure it’s possible, but there are some things to consider. The first is that the epoxy will darken the color of the fabric and will look the same as it would when wet. The second is that it will take quite a bit of epoxy to cover it since fabric is thick compared to coatings. You would need to trim the edges of the plywood in order to create a small dam. This will allow the epoxy to pool effectively in order to completely soak into and then cover the fabric effectively. It may take a couple applications. You are correct that you would need 100% solids. It will allow you to apply very thick applications without the epoxy thinning due to evaporation from solvents. I don’t think wood varnish will work. It’s not designed as a coating and does not like to be applied thickly.
Bill says
We are thinking about using epoxy coating around our unground pool. Would the epoxy coating create a slippery surface, causing everyone to slip and fall?
Shea says
Epoxy is not designed for the outdoors Bill. It will be very slippery around a pool and it will amber (turn yellow) from being exposed to the sun. Search for “pool deck coatings” to get an idea of what you can use.
Jan says
Can you apply epoxy coating over asphalt? The inside of my detached garage is paved with asphalt.
Shea says
No Jan, you can’t cover asphalt with epoxy. The surface is too soft and most importantly a petroleum base. Epoxy will not adhere to oils.
mahi says
thanking you for your suggestions.
is it epoxy and liquid glass is same, if different pls about liquid glass and how liquid glass uses to 3d flooring purpose like epoxy.
thanking
Shea says
Hi Mahi. Epoxy is used for a variety of different things than just floor coatings. However, it is formulated differently for each purpose. Liquid Glass is epoxy that has been specially formulated for bar tops, table tops, art work, and etc. It is not formulated for foot and vehicular traffic. Plus, it is designed to applied very thick. You would need 6 times the amount of liquid glass to cover the same area as standard floor coatings. You will need to use traditional concrete floor coatings provided by the various floor coating vendors and companies that manufacture them. Epoxy, polyurethane, polyurea, and polyaspartic coatings are all examples. These same coatings are used for the 3D type of flooring you would want to do.
mahi says
I am very Thank full to your suggestion ,
i am planning to install 3D digital wallpaper in my bed room floor.I am interested with Epoxy installation. while i am planning to purchasing , Some time it shows Epoxy Primer some times shows Epoxy Resin.I have
this confusion. are they same? If not,What is the the difference?, can mix epoxy Hardner to which one of the above(Epoxy resin OR Epoxy primer)?.
Shea says
When you purchase epoxy Mahi, it comes as 2 units. The first is the Part A resin and the second is the Part B hardener. You don’t purchase them separately. I highly suggest that you call and speak to the vendors that sell such coatings before you make a purchase and attempt your project.
Kirk says
Hi, I just installed Rustoleum Professional two part epoxy and made a couple of mistakes. First, I didn’t cover garage floor adequately and now need a second coat. I’m having a hard time finding the solvent based epoxy in time before the first layer cures. It will be 7 days minimum before I can re-coat. Will I have to scuff/sand the original coat? Also the original coat has paint chips? Will this be a problem? Ok the second thing… after I did the garage I had extra epoxy left so I painted the treads of the contractor plywood steps that lead up from the basement. I wore a respirator while doing this but my house became pretty toxic ( my family is away for a couple of weeks) I opened all the windows in my basement and my 1st floor and now the smell has subsided a lot, but now I read everywhere that I did a really bad thing by using a solvent indoors, and also that the epoxy won’t likely stay on the wood even though I sanded it coarse. What are my options?
Shea says
Rust-Oleum has a 72 hour recoat window Kirk. You will need to rough up the surface with 100-150 grit sandpaper first if you go past that window. You will lose a few color flakes in the process, but that’s OK. The second coat will cover them anyway. Just keep in mind that you may see the outlines of the covered flakes. It helps to use a few more color flakes in the second coat to camouflage this. Yes, the epoxy will stay on your wood steps if you sanded them. Just keep in mind they can get slippery if they get wet. The solvents in the epoxy evaporate out of the coating as it cures. The smell should go away in 2 or 3 more days.
Kirk says
Thank you,
This is exactly what I ended up doing. I cold no longer get the solvent based epoxy, however, so I used the water based (after confirming that this is ok with Rustoleum technical service. It looks great, time will tell if it lasts!
Adesoji DK says
Please can we apply epoxy in a laboratory?
Can epoxy be applied on a marble tiles?
Shea says
Yes, Adesoji, epoxy and similar coating are used in commercial lab environments on a regular basis.
John says
I have a concrete slab in a house that has a few cracks and am getting water seep up from the ground. How is best way to permanent seal this floor with what product?
Shea says
Hi John. If your goal is to stop the water intrusion, then we would suggest a polyurethane foam treatment. Emecole makes and excellent product for this and it’s not very difficult to use. You can find it here from Amazon.