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Two questions that we are often asked is how to recoat or apply a new coat of epoxy to an older epoxy floor that has already cured and can you apply a clear coat to an older epoxy garage floor coating? If you’ve done a little bit of research on epoxy application, then you know how important floor preparation is. So let’s discuss how to determine if your floor qualifies for a recoat and then how to prep the floor before you do.
When can you apply epoxy over an older coating?
There are many examples of when you can apply a new coat of epoxy over an older cured coating. The most common of these are for people who had previously applied a color coat and now realize that they want the glossy looks and advantages of adding a clear coat.
Sometimes it’s as simple as someone who planned a multiple coat flooring system and waited too long between coats, allowing the epoxy to cure, before applying the next coat in order to get a chemical bond.
Another reason is to renew the clear top coat. After many years of service in a busy garage, the clear top coat of an epoxy floor can start to show its age. With the proper floor preparation, you can add another coat of clear and make the floor look brand new again.
And then finally, you may have an older existing coating that is showing wear from years of heavy traffic and getting thin. As long as the floor is not experiencing any delamination issues, many times you can recoat right over a worn epoxy floor to create a brand new looking finish.
As long as the existing garage floor coating is a 2-part resinous product such as epoxy, polyurea, polyaspartic, or polyurethane, then you should be able to apply an additional coat of a compatible product without issue. However, to be safe you should always consult with the manufacturer of the new coating first.
When not to apply epoxy over an older coat
If the existing epoxy floor coating is peeling up or showing other signs of delamination, then you do not want to epoxy over it. There are bigger issues at play here that are causing the delamination. Applying a new coat of epoxy over such a coating will only lead to more problems. A complete removal of the old coating by grinding would be required.
If the coating is fairly worn with more concrete showing through than there is epoxy, then you will want to start fresh by grinding the floor.
Do not attempt to apply epoxy over existing concrete sealers. These need to be removed first as epoxy will not adhere to them. Also, floor paint is not a good base for epoxy and needs to be removed as well.
How to prep epoxy for another coat
The key to applying a new coat is to mechanically rough up the surface of the older coat to create enough bite for the epoxy to adhere to it. There are a couple of ways to achieve this.
The first is to use 120 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander or pole sander like this one at Amazon. What you are trying to do is rough up the surface, not remove it. The surface should look deglossed after sanding.
Once done, sweep up the heavy stuff and then vacuum the entire floor with a shop vac. Next, use denatured alcohol on a small towel and wipe down the entire surface. The denatured alcohol will remove all the fine dust particles, evaporate quickly, and make sure that the surface is clean.
The other option is to use a floor maintainer (buffer) with a 100 grit sanding screen. You can usually rent these fairly inexpensively from your local home improvement center. They should have the sanding screens to purchase as well.
This method will go faster than the pole sander and cover a lot of floor quickly if you have quite a bit of square feet to prep. Just remember to occasionally check the sanding screen for wear and to make sure it hasn’t clogged up. After you are done, vacuum the floor and use denatured alcohol as described with the sanding method.
If you have an older clear coat that you want to renew, then you will want to use 80 – 100 grit sandpaper or a 60 – 80 grit sanding screen first to actually remove a small layer of the coating. This will help to eliminate any deeper scratches and/or embedded dirt that has marred the finish.
Do the same if you have a worn coating that is adhered very well but has some spots where the coating has worn through to the concrete. The more aggressive grit will insure that the bare concrete will be prepped properly as well.
Floor prep such as this goes fairly quickly. Once you wipe down the floor with the denatured alcohol, your floor is ready for a new coat of epoxy or floor coating of your choice.
Matt says
Hi…we coated our garage floor about six years ago. I’m 99% sure we used the professional grade rustoleum epoxy kit with flakes and a clear gloss top coat. It has adhered beautifully. The only issue we had was yellowing the first few feet from the door. Unfortunately, someone in the house thought the yellowing was dirt and used a cleaner that seems to have stripped the coating or something. So now we have areas that are very white, almost look bleached out. When you rub the white areas with a damp cloth you can see the color and flakes below but then it dries white again. From your article and the comments I’m thinking we need to sand with 80-100 grit then re do the gloss. Is that correct or is their something else we can try? Or will that not work? If we need to reapply the gloss should we stick with the rustoleum? Thank you.
Shea says
Hi Matt. You are correct regarding yellowing of epoxy. It sounds like someone used an acidic based product in combination with a course scrub pad. 120 grit sandpaper works fine for a recoat. You can use 80-100 if there are areas in the floor that have some ground-in dirt or scratches you want to remove. The entire floor will look hazy, but once you apply the new clear coat all the clear gloss will come back. If the Rust-Oleum has performed well up to this point, then you will be fine using that again. If you want something that even better abrasion ratings (longer wear) and that is U.V. stable (will not amber/yellow), then you can apply a high performance polyurethane or single-part polyurea clear coat. We have links in the article to vendors we recommend that carry it. Don’t use polyurethane available from home improvement stores. They are for wood floors and furniture only. Here is an example of excellent polyurethane.
Chuck Pohero says
I coated my garage floor with a metallic epoxy, 2 coats primer & 2 coats epoxy. Then I sanded the floor to prepare for an application of a solvent based polyurethane top coat. After a thorough cleaning (sweeping, vacuuming, wet mopping), the final step was to wipe the floor with denatured alcohol. After the top coat dried, there were small bumps over every inch of the garage floor. I am sure these are not air bubbles or dust particles. Precautions were taken. Another website says that denatured alcohol should only be used to clean the floor for water based top coats. Mineral spirits should be used solvent based top coats. Is this correct and, if yes, is it likely the denatured alcohol was the cause of the bumps all over the floor. I don’t want to repeat my mistake. Thank you.
Shea says
Hi Chuck. No, denatured alcohol should not have an effect with any concrete coating. It’s commonly used for just what you did. We cannot comment on it’s effect on polyurethane for wood floors, furniture, etc. It’s a completely different formula, many of which are oil-based and non of which are compatible with concrete coatings. There is always something that sets off the type of reaction you had though. High humidity can cause polyurethane to bubble like that. So can air moving across the surface or from the coating being applied too thick. If air is moving across the surface, the coating will cure faster at the surface and not allow the solvents to escape fast enough and bubbles will form. If it’s applied too thick, the coating will begin to set up before all the solvents can evaporate out. That is why it’s thin to win for polyurethane – just the opposite of epoxy.
Ted says
Hi – nice column, we coated our garage floor years ago using Rustoleum with the color chips. We now have some rust in a corner, paint spills, and some bare places where the coating stuck to hot tires. Do I need to strip the whole floor, or can I clean and touch up the rough spots? Thanks for any advice.
Shea says
Hi Ted. Rust-Oleum does not have touchup kits, so you would be required to purchase a full kit. You can certainly touchup those spots, however, it will be very obvious and they will stand out. Coatings do not blend like paint on a wall does when you touchup. The overlap marks stand out and the color tone will be off.
If you want to use the recoat primer, we recommend first etching the bare spots with the supplied solution from the new epoxy kit and then clean the entire floor surface. You can then apply the primer and then the new coating.
Anderson says
Hello. So i epoxied my floor with the chips then used a glossy clear coat. Some areas are semi glossy and some are less glossy. This was done about 2 months ago. I would like to apply a high gloss finish. What preparations do i need to do. Thanks.
Shea says
Hi Anderson. You would do as in instructed in the article above. Degloss and rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper. Sweep/vac, wipe with denatured alcohol and then apply a new coating.
Anderson says
Awesome thanks
Anderson says
Hello again i have 1 other question. If i wanted to add more flakes on my already completed floor is that possible and how do i get the flakes to stick before apply the high gloss finish?
Shea says
Hi Anderson. It would involve two coats of clear. The first coat is applied and you toss color flakes where needed into that. The second coat is then applied to cover it all up.
mike says
Hello, my question is that i just got my epoxy floor finished this past weekend, however in some spots its still alittle rugged as if there wasnt enough clear coat added. Its only been 3 days and i want to know if i can just go ahead and apply another clear coat. Garage hasnt been touched
Shea says
Hello Mike. What is the exact product that you used for the clear coat?
Scott says
I just coated my 2.5 garage with Rustoleum Expoxy shield with flakes and did not distribute the flakes evenly. I tried to order a new bag to use within the next day or so, and was just going to apply as part of the clear coat (rock solid.) Long story short, I had major issues with shipping and essentially missed the window – its now been 5 days and the floor looks well and truly cured. The question I have is, could I lightly rough up the surface with 120 grit and apply the clear coat with additional flakes (backroll) to fix this issue? Or should I apply a whole new coat of Expoxy shield, re-flake and then add the clear coat within the cure time? Just concerned if I rough up the surface and just apply the clear, the flakes may appear scratched up?
Shea says
Hi Scott. Just as an FYI, color flakes need to be tossed into a still wet coating in order for them to adhere. Depending on the coating, you have a 10 – 20 minute window. Tossing them in the next day would not work. If you are happy with the color coat, but not the color flakes, then what you need to do is apply a new clear coat. Toss color flakes where needed as you go. You then apply another clear over that one to lock everything in. Also, never toss flakes at the floor. They create lines and do not disperse evenly. The best way to distribute color flakes is to toss them high into the air. They begin to separate as they go up and then disperse fairly evenly as they flutter down.
You will need to degloss and rough up the current coat with 120 grit sandpaper before application of the new coat. A floor maintainer with a green scrub pad (dry) will do it much quicker. Yes, the floor and color flakes will haze up some. Once the clear coat is applied, the rich colors, haze, and scratches go away.
Anderson says
Thanks very much. Very knowledgeable, really appreciate it.
Jan cornell says
Can I just scuff up my clear coat on the garage floor, clean and then apply a second clear coat?
Shea says
Yes, you can do that, Jan.
Jan cornell says
I had a friend apply Rustoleum epoxy and clear coat last year. Can I apply a second clear coat this year?
Shea says
Hi, Jan. We answered your previous question. Yes, you can do that. You just need to do the proper prep first.
Korey Banks Sr says
So I painted my garage floor, but with Kilz interior/exterior satin. It doesn’t have the smooth glossy look like epoxy and keeps coming up . Can I paint over the satin or do I need to strip it with buffer and start over. I want a smooth glossy look because I’m turning my garage into a barber shop and I want a floor that’ll be easy to sweep the hair up.
Shea says
Hello Korey. Kilz interior/exterior satin paint is not glossy. In addition, it states in the data sheets not to use it on floors. That is why you are having these issues. The last thing you want to do is apply the correct product over another that is peeling up. What you need for your purpose is a proper resinous coating, not paint.
The first thing you will need to do is either chemically strip the paint or grind it off in order to expose the bare concrete. What coating you choose may be dependent upon the way the paint is removed. If you chemically strip it, it will require that you etch or grind to properly prep the floor for a coating. If you grind to bare concrete, then that is all that needs to be done. There is one particular product that does not require etching in most cases. It’s called DuraGrade Concrete and it comes in multiple colors. You would require a minimum of two coats. You can learn about it here. It’s low in VOCs and very glossy. RockSolid provides a glossy look, but you would need to etch and it may require two coats.
Stephen says
Hi there.
I applied a Rust Oleum epoxy kit yesterday and dispersed flakes. Unfortunately, the kit covered less area than it advertised and 1/4 of my garage is bare. The applied section looks great. I purchased the same kit and want to apply today.
Question is should I re-apply to the flaked section or will the flakes show through the second coat? I plan to re-flake and then clear coat.
Shea says
Hello Stephen. No, the flakes will not show through and you will need to toss flakes for the new coat. Are you going to end the second kit at a contraction joint or do you plan to just overlap the first coat? Coatings do not blend like paint on a wall does. If you plan to just overlap, the overlap marks are very obvious and will stand out like a sore thumb. If you end at a contraction joint, then you will not have that problem.
Stephen Fox says
I do not have a contraction joint. Unfortunately, the options are to overlap (I.e. complete the 1/4 unfinished portion and then second coat the 3/4 finished portion) or otherwise to only complete the 1/4 unfinished portion and leave the remaining 3/4 as finished yesterday.
Any thoughts as to which would be less noticeable?
Since the 3/4 finished portion is already dry, I assumed that a new coat on both the unfinished and finished portions at the same time would lead to the best results.
Shea says
The best way to complete the job would be to coat the unfinished section, let it cure, and then coat over the entire floor with a new coat. A new coat on the entire floor including the uncoated section would be the next best option. Just keep in mind that with two coats on the larger section, the color tone might look a little different compared to the single coat. Also, keep track of your recoat windows. If you are outside any of those, it will require deglossing the surface first with 120 grit sandpaper.
Stephen Fox says
Thanks so much! Appreciate the advice, which has been tough to find elsewhere.
Stephen Fox says
UPDATE: I coated / re-coated the entire floor. There is zero color differentiation so far and I experienced no problems going back over the flakes.
I went very thick over the bare portion and then thin over the applied portion. I also used a heavy amount of flakes in this new application.
The only issue is that I experienced some bubbling immediately on application in some areas (like a chemical reaction). Luckily, these bubbles are in a low traffic area and not extremely noticeable. Also, no delayed bubbling occurred overnight.
Thanks for the help!
Shea says
Hi Stephen. That’s good to hear. You should not apply a low solids epoxy thickly or you will have issues with both bubbles and how well it cures. That is why we recommended two coats and not one thick one for that area. Hopefully, it turns out well as you indicate.
LR says
I want to do a quick fix up to our bare concrete garage floor before thanksgiving since we’ll be using that area also. I want to do epoxy but because of time constraints and weather I will have to wait til next summer to move everything outside and do the proper epoxy coating. My question is: can I just paint the floor now and then do the whole epoxy thing over the paint next summer? If so what kind of paint would be best?
Shea says
Hi LR. You cannot apply a quality floor coating over paint. It needs to be applied to bare concrete. That is why proper concrete prep for a coating is so important. The primary reason (of many) is that coatings adhere to bare concrete much better than paint. If apply a coating over paint, then it will peel up as easily as the paint since that is what the coating is adhered to. In other words, the coating system is only as good as what it is applied to. If you paint the garage floor, then you will need to grind it to remove the paint and expose the bare concrete before applying a coating.
LR says
Makes sense. Thanks!
Joe Jacobs says
I used the Rustoleum epoxy kit about 6 years ago. In 2 spots where the front tires touch, the coating has been removed over time. Every place else it looks great still. I’m assuming that I won’t have to remove the entire garage epoxy coating that is intact but instead, sand over the existing two bare spot areas, acid wash again, and then re-coat with the same epoxy kit? Does this seem doable? Thanks!
Shea says
Hi Joe. Use the supplied eco etch solution on the bare concrete. The rest of the coating needs to be deglossed and roughed up with 120 grit sandpaper. You can then sweep/vac and wipe down with denatured alcohol before applying a new coat over the entire floor.
Carol says
We put epoxy down two weeks ago. We think it needs another coat. Do you recommend 120 or 100 grit. We have a floor polisher.
Shea says
Hi Carol. Since you are not dealing with an old coating that would benefit from removing ground-in dirt, you can use a 120 grit sanding screen or a black scrub pad on your floor maintainer. All you need to do is degloss and scratch it up a bit.
Raul says
Hello, great situational issues here! I just applied the Rustoleum kit to my garage, two kits. Not sure what happened, but looks horrible. Concrete patching at crack lines showed right through in darker shade than rest of floor, as patching was darker than adjacent concrete. Some of the garage is shiny, some is dull. First kit was mixed in bucket, second kit mixed in bag. Some fish eye bubbling at what was probably wet patch repair. Anyhow, looking to recoat entire garage and hopefully cover up this eyesore! Going to use 120 grit, scuff it up a bit, and coat with new epoxy kit. Hopefully will be even and shiny this time, but not keeping my hopes up. Any tips on keeping the shading the same? Thanks!
Shea says
Hello Raul. What Rust-Oleum kits did you use exactly and how many square feet is the floor?
Raul says
I used the home depot EpoxyShield for a 470sqft garage. Did one 2.5 car garage kit, then ran out and did a 1 car kit to finish off. I think maybe difference in product manufacturing for color? Should probably have mixed them together from the start. Just hoping this next package for 2.5 car garage will finish it off right.
Shea says
Hi Raul. You have a few possible issues going. EpoxyShield is a thin, water-based budget epoxy. Any repairs made that are a much darker color are going to show through. Also, concrete repair materials need time to cure and or dry a minimum amount of time before coating over. It’s very important to follow the data sheet instructions to learn what those times are. If you coat too early, all kinds of problems can occur. Our guess is that you used a product that required mixing water with it?
Yes, it sounds like you had a color match issue with the single kit. The 2.5 car kits come from the same batch and should match up well. However, we spoke with Rust-Oleum and they do not provide batch mix numbers to try and match up when using additional kits for the same coat. As a result, color issues can occasionally arise. NEVER MIX MORE THAN ONE EPOXY KIT TOGETHER AT A TIME if you are concerned about color. Epoxy creates an exothermic reaction that increases exponentially with volume. It will heat up and turn hard before you can get down on time. You need to batch mix when color matching is a concern. We have an article here that discusses how to do it. The second coat should take care of your issues. Just get the entire surface roughed up, including taking off the tops of the bubbles if you can. Wipe the surface with denatured alcohol and you will be ready to go.
Raul says
Thanks Shea, we lightly sanded the surface with 120 grit. California doesn’t allow denatured alcohol and I don’t want to use thinner or something that might eat into the epoxy, so we were just going to mop it and wait 2 days to let it dry. Hopefully that won’t cause problems!! You guys rock! Thanks for all your help….
Shea says
Just use isopropyl alcohol instead. Once you wipe it down with the alcohol it will evaporate in a few minutes and be ready to coat.
Raul says
Will do. I want to mention the guy put down Zinsser BIN Shellac-Base primer on the spot locations with bubbles. Will this work for epoxy? I really don’t want to do this a 3rd time…thanks again Shea, really appreciate the information!!
Shea says
It will work as long as the surface is sanded before the epoxy is applied. It technically creates a weak spot since the primer does not adhere as well as epoxy, but you most likely will not have a problem if car tires are not parked on that spot.
Raul says
Awesome, I’ve been worried! Thank you Shea, you are awesome and thank you for your time!!
Puran says
I have applied a coloured coat of epoxy to the garage floor two year’s ago. It’s in good shape but when it’s wet very slippery. Can I do another coat and add sand etc, would it make none slippery and would not peel away. Please advise.
Shea says
Hello Puran. What you need to apply is an anti-slip additive into the final coat. We have an article here that discusses anti-slip media. If the color coat is in good shape, we would recommend roughing up the surface as described in the article and then apply a high-performance clear coat with the anti-slip media mixed in.
Lucas B says
My company is planning on removing about 3,000SF of old epoxy and reapplying new epoxy. I have never done epoxy flooring and do not know the proper order of how to do things. We have a floor polisher with a coat removing head to remove all the old stuff, but after that what order should we use degreaser/ cleaner and the concrete etch? We have both. In the simplest way, can you list out the order from start to finish?
Shea says
Hello Lucas. Hopefully, it’s a low quality epoxy coating that you are removing. Using a floor maintainer and removal tool on 3000 square feet of concrete can be a chore. You may want to consider renting an industrial concrete grinder instead. It would be easier and quicker. The process of removing the old epoxy via grinding is going to properly prepare the concrete surface for a new coating. The concrete should be bare and properly abraded when you are done. No etching is required when you grind. The only reason to clean and degrease would be for previously bare surfaces that were exposed. Otherwise, there should be clean concrete under the old coating. I suggest you read our article on how to apply an epoxy coating. It lists all the steps required.
Eudora says
Hi Shea, we applied the Rustoleum Epoxy yesterday afternoon, the 2.5 package is not enough so we open a new one, but the new one looks dark than the previous one. We have already scattered the decorative chips, can we apply a second coat epoxy on them and scatter again? Since it just passed 16 hours, do we need to use the 120 grit scuff it? Thanks!
Shea says
Hi Eudora. Yes, you can do that – not scuffing required. Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield has a 72-hour recoat window due to the water-based formulation. No further prep of the current coating is required if you are within the 72 hours window.
josh says
Hi,
I put down the Rust-Oleum Epoxy-Shield in a 3 Car garage and it looked fantastic. Problem is i have a few spots that are not bonding well and a few spots that look like its blistering up. I sanded down the areas that were blistering and it was lime deposits that were causing the issue. I originally did etch the entire area and also used the Rust-Oleum Moisture stop fortifying sealer before moving on to the application.
Im preparing to rough up the entire garage and re-apply a fresh coat, however I don’t know how to handle the problem areas specifically. Re-etch, re-seal in just those areas but leave the rest of the garage roughed up from the sanding and then proceed? Is there some other specialty product I should use on those spots before redoing the epoxy layer?
Thanks so much……Im pulling my hair out as this is obviously a big job and I cant stand the thought of doing this a third time!
Shea says
Hello Josh. Have you had moisture issues or efflorescence on the garage floor in the past? Is the slab below grade?
Josh says
There was a little efflorescence prior, in a few areas. The garage is cut into a hillside so the back is below grade as well as about half of the sides.
Shea says
Hi Josh. OK, it sounds like you have moisture in the soil that is pushing its way through the concrete to the surface. Coatings effectively block moisture and do not breathe. If there is enough of it, it can cause the uppermost layer that the coating is bonded with to effloresce and deteriorate. This is what causes the coating to peel. There are special moisture-blocking epoxy primers that can be applied, but it depends on how much moisture is present. They are more expensive than EpoxyShield and require aggressive grinding of the surface for prep. If the moisture isn’t too bad, there are some vendors that sell moisture tolerant epoxy that require a good acid etch. Not the citric etch that Rust-Oleum uses. This coating kit by Roll On Rock is an example. I suggest you read this article about moisture testing. It goes into more detail. If you do have moisture issues, another coat of EpoxyShield is only going to do the same thing. The other option would be interlocking floor tile if you want a flooring that will not be affected by moisture.
Laura Conti says
This is a fantastic article and forum and answers many of my questions about epoxy application. We did all of our concrete floors, basement and small utility building with epoxy years ago according to instructions, however did not apply a clear coat–I guess I wasn’t aware of it. The coating has done well but spots are starting to wear down to the concrete. I have read your instructions, however there is one room where the floor is delaminating and a lot more concrete is showing much like your picture, this is in spots, not the whole room. My question is can I grind those spots? or do I have to do the whole floor area? When grinding, what tool do you use? In the past I used an angle grinder, but that is tedious. Thank you for all of this very detailed and great advice on this topic. I’ve been looking for these answers.
Shea says
Hello Laura. We are glad you found us. You can either grind those areas or use an eco-friendly etch. However, the first thing you should do is take a floor scraper to the coating. Make sure any loose areas or edges are scraped away before grinding or etching. A coating is only as good as what it is attached to. You do not want a new coating attaching to a poorly adhered one. A floor maintainer with a Diamabrush concrete prep tool is a good choice when you have many patches of bare concrete. It will prep the bare concrete surface and feather the edges of the current coating that is still adhered well. We discuss grinding and the Diamabrush tool here in our grinding artile.
eve says
I’m looking to recoat my epoxy floor. can I use the etch that’s included in the package or is that too harsh?
I also wanted to apply a moisture sealant before I recoat the epoxy floor, is that a good idea or will it adhere properly since there is old epoxy already applied?
Shea says
Hello Eve. No, you can’t use the supplied etch. Etching solutions do not work on epoxy. Only bare concrete can be etched. That is what the etch reacts with. You need to prep the old epoxy surface by roughing it up with 120-grit sandpaper. Vac/sweep and then wipe it down with denatured alcohol or equivalent applied liberally to a microfiber mop pad. After that, it’s ready for a new coat.
You can’t apply a moisture sealant to epoxy. Epoxy IS a sealant and will repel any liquids applied to it. I think you are getting your concrete sealants and coatings confused 🙂
Ed says
Great article, One question I have is would latex paint adhere to an existing in tact epoxy coating on the short concrete perimeter walls? I would sand them with maybe 80 or 100 grit first. Thank you!
Shea says
Hi Ed. Yes, if you prep the surface as you stated, the latex paint will adhere.
LINDA says
WE HAVE A EXOPY FLOOR WITH CHIPS THAT is ABOUT 10 YEARS OLD… WOULD LIKE TO APPLY NEW EXOPY COAT. WHAT DO WE NEED TO DO TO PREPARE THE OLD FLOOR FOR EXOPY? DO YOU RECOMMEND ROCKSOLID OR EPOXYSHIELD?
Shea says
Hi Linda. We discuss what needs to be done in the article above. Did you have a specific question about the steps we outlined? We don’t recommend either of the products you mentioned. These are residential-quality coatings that don’t perform well in the long term. Of the two, RockSolid is the better product. This article here discusses choosing the best coating system for a garage floor. In addition, this article here references the best DIY garage floor coating we recommend. Lastly, don’t get fooled by garage floor coating reviews. We discuss fake reviews here.
Behar G says
Hey I applied a Leggari metalic epoxy floor coat in my 2 car garage but after it cured it seems like air was moving within the garage and created some imperfections to the floor. The glossy protective coat hasnt been applied yet. would you recommend using a sander and sanding the floor with a 220 grit and then applying the top coat or something else?
Shea says
Hi Behar. If you have irregularities that need sanding out, 120-150 grit will work better. Just make sure you wait 24 hours after the application before sanding and then follow up on the entire floor with 220. This is a common method the pros use to get very glossy floors will little to no imperfections. Also, be sure to wipe it down with denatured alcohol or similar after the sanding.