When RockSolid introduced their new line of Polycuramine garage floor and interior coatings, we were left scratching our heads at first. After all, what in the heck is Polycuramine? We admit we had never heard of it before. Moreover, what happened to the old RockSolid Polyurea garage floor coating and why the change? Furthermore, why is Rust-Oleum’s name on RockSolid’s product?
So after being asked by more than one reader of All Garage Floors, we decided it was time to see what the Polycuramine fuss was about, why Rust-Oleum is involved, and determine if the RockSolid Polycuramine garage floor coating is better than the older Polyurea coating that it has replaced.
What is Polycuramine?
For the best definition of what Polycuramine is, we need a brief history of RockSolid Floors in order to help explain how Polycuramine ended up in their product and how Rust-Oleum became involved.
RockSolid Floors was established in 2007 as an affiliate of Citadel Floor Finishing Systems. Citadel is a well-established, 43 year old industrial floor finishing manufacturer that specializes in polyaspartic and polyurea technologies. Realizing that there was a DIY demand, RockSolid Floors was born in order to provide a friendlier DIY version of the Citadel product that would be easier to apply.
RockSolid is probably best known for providing the A and B compounds in ready-to-mix sealed burst pouches that do not require a mixing bucket for most applications.
In January of 2014, Rust-Oleum acquired Citadel and thus inherited the RockSolid line of floor coating products. As a result, all RockSolid products now come with Rust-Oleum branding. In fact, all customer service inquiries for RockSolid go directly to Rust-Oleum as well.
Polycuramine is a newly trademarked product that was developed last year by Citadel and found its way into the RockSolid lineup. It’s a proprietary blend that is alleged to combine the best benefits of Polyurea, Polyurethane, and Epoxy. This is a quote from a RockSolid sales page:
RockSolid Polycuramine™ is the best of Polyurea, Urethane, and Epoxy chemistries. It combines these three chemistries and their key attributes into ONE indestructible, self-leveling, flexible, fast curing, high gloss coating system.
RockSolid claims that their Polycuramine garage floor coating is 20 times stronger than epoxy paint and has a 96% solids content. It is impervious to all chemicals and comes with a high gloss finish. It can be installed in one day, walked on in 8 – 10 hours, and driven on within 24 hours.
You can view their information page here.
It also has the added advantage of an installation temperature range of 40°F – 90°F, it has a low VOC content with minimal odor, and comes with a limited lifetime warranty as well.
Each Polycuramine Garage Floor Coat kit consists of one burst pouch of colored Polycuramine to cover up to 250 ft², decorative color chip for a light coverage, the required foam roller, concrete etch solution, and of course instructions. There are three colors to choose from as well – Tan, Mocha, and Grey.
Installation of the new Polycuramine Garage Coat kit
One note to make. Proper preparation of the concrete is still the most important part of a garage floor coating application – even new concrete. No matter how good the coating is, it will not adhere to a poorly prepped or dirty garage floor.
Our Views of the new RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Coating
We feel that this new lineup for RockSolid couldn’t have come at a better time. While the Polyurea garage coat system that it replaced was a fairly good product, many of the reviews for it by the average DIY installer were less than great.
There are many benefits to a polyurea garage floor coating, but the pitfalls for a DIY coating is in the installation. The biggest complaints received about the older RockSolid polyurea coating was delamination and finish issues. Many if not most of the problems to these issues was not due to a poor product, but the result of the limited application time available for the product. If it wasn’t installed in 20 to 30 minutes it started to thicken up and problems ensued.
Because polyurea cures fairly quickly, it doesn’t have enough time to seep into the pores of dense concrete that is prepped only by etching and not by grinding. This can lead to delamination issues of the coating. Secondly, if you don’t get the product down fast enough the finish will not be very glossy or can even loose its smooth texture among other issues.
After putting a call in to the Rust-Oleum tech line, they claimed that the new RockSolid Polycuramine formula has better wetting characteristics (similar to epoxy) that allows the coating to penetrate into the concrete better. This is a big help for concrete that is etched instead of prepped by grinding.
You also have up to 45 minutes to apply the Polycuramine which should be more than enough time to get down 250 ft² of product. This should alleviate many of the finish issues that resulted from the short installation window of before.
We do have to question some of RockSolid’s marketing techniques however. They claim that their new Polycuramine formulation is 20 times stronger than epoxy paint. Really? Their older polyurea product claimed it was only 4 times stronger. After digging a bit deeper, we realized that what they are comparing it to is paint – 1 part epoxy paint that is. That is like comparing apples to oranges.
Try as we might, we could not find a 2-part epoxy floor coating with only a 33% solids content as RockSolid compares it to. The only product we could find with that low a content is 1-part epoxy paint. We feel that they are being a bit too deceiving in this regard and should be comparing it to a true 2-part epoxy.
They also claim that the new Polycuramine blend combines the best of Polyurea, Polyurethane, and Epoxy. That isn’t necessarily true either. History has shown time and again for sealers and coatings that by combining the best of everything you will not get the best attributes of each ingredient.
Polyurethane for example is known for being very resistant to chemicals, abrasion, and for being U.V. stable. While Polycuramine has good chemical resistance, it is not U.V. stable and can yellow if exposed to direct sunlight for lengths of time. It’s also not as resistant to abrasion as a good polyurethane. Its abrasion resistance is about equal to a quality 100% solids epoxy. That’s still good, but not as good as most polyurethanes and polyureas.
Another concern is that this product goes down extremely thin. It has a dry film thickness of only 3 mils. That’s about half as thick as a typical polyurea coating. We attribute that to the special polyamide foam roller that they require you to use. As and example, 100% solids epoxy is about 10 mils for a DIY kit. Our guess is they need the thinner coating to get the coverage rate they require in order to keep the price point competitive.
As a result of the thin mil coating, we recommend a second coat of clear Polycuramine to provide for an overall thicker coating that will provide a more durable finish and deeper glossy look.
Try as we might, we could not find a technical data sheet for the Polycuramine garage coat either. We don’t know if that is by design or if it’s the result of a still fairly new garage coat product. We have always had concerns about companies that don’t list the TDS for their own products. Rust-Oleum did not have the information immediately available either and had to get back to us with the specifications on the dry film thickness.
Update: RockSolid now provides a TDS sheet for their product. However, it still does not provide enough information to compare it to other quality coatings.
Would we recommend RockSolid Polycuramine?
With all that said, initial responses from consumers has been very positive. Reports are that the new RockSolid Polycuramine garage coating formula is easier to apply DIY than the previous polyurea formula. Few Issues about the finish have been raised so far that we are aware of. Plus, the added benefit of being able to install it in a wider range of temperature extremes is something you cannot do with other garage floor coatings.
One nice advantage to the Polycuramine garage coat that we have failed to mention is that it has up to a 7 day recoat window. This means that you can wait up to 7 days to apply another coat to the floor without having to prep it first other than making sure it is clean.
This can be a great advantage to the average DIY installer who may only have a limited time to work on their floor. Most coating products have a recoat window of 24 hours or less.
Though the new RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Coat is only 3 mils thick, we feel this formulation is far superior to that of comparable DIY coatings such as Rust-Oleum’s 2-part EpoxyShield product, Quikrete Epoxy garage floor coatings, or Valspar Epoxy Coatings as an example.
Yes, the RockSolid Polycuramine is more expensive than these traditional DIY garage coat kits. However, the warranty is much better and it fills a void for the consumer who wants a quality DIY product that is easy to apply, but may be intimidated by the cost and application of the thicker and more expensive multi-coat garage floor coatings.
RockSolid also has an easy to apply metallic garage floor coating which is now gaining some attention. It goes down twice as thick and has a very professional appearance.
Where to purchase RockSolid Polycuramine products
We’ve had to update this section on multiple occasions since we first posted this article in early 2014. For a while the RockSolid lineup was only available from Menards. Fortunately however, Rust-Oleum has since expanded the distribution of the RockSolid product to Home Depot as well as some automotive parts stores such as Summit Racing.
If you don’t have one of these stores near you, Rust-Oleum is now offering RockSolid Garage Floor Coatings at Amazon.
Pricing will vary but to give you an idea, expect a single 1-car garage floor kit that covers up to 250 ft² to retail for approximately $125. We’ve seen it priced as low as $99 from different outlets when on sale. They also have made available a 2.5 car garage kit as well that will cover up to 500 ft².
It didn’t take too long, but Rust-Oleum is now marketing the Polycuramine formula under the Rust-Oleum Restore brand of products as well. As an example, you can find it at Lowes under the name Rust-Oleum Restore garage floor coating kit. You may be able to find it at other outlets under the Restore branding as well.
Final thoughts
It’s too soon to know if RockSolid Polycuramine is the wave of the future in garage floor coating. It does seem however to have much better attributes than the traditional DIY epoxy garage floor kits that you can buy from your local home improvement centers and auto stores. Reviews so far have been positive and you can bet we will be keeping a close eye on the developments of this new product.
Update
It’s been two years now since we first wrote about RockSolid’s new Polycuramine garage floor coating. To date, we have heard very few issues relating to the actual performance of the coating. This is good news so far and a good indicator that it should last longer than the traditional DIY garage floor coating kits.
However, we have had a few questions and comments regarding a particular cosmetic issue with some single coat applications. These people have been reporting patchy areas and sections of the coating that appear less glossy and/or slightly different in color.
The source of this issue seems to be too thin of a coating in those areas. As with all coatings, if too thin of a coat is applied to bare concrete in a single coat application, the finish of the coating will lose gloss and the color tone can change.
We have found a couple of reasons why this is occurring. The first has to do with stretching out the coverage rate of the coating. As we reported earlier, RockSolid states up to 250 ft² coverage for a single car application (one burst pouch). We have found that when people have tried to stretch this coverage rate, it ends up being applied too thin and the resulting issue is loss of gloss and color tone problems.
The second reason is somewhat related. Rough or porous floors will absorb more of the coating. Even if applying the Polycuramine to no more than 250 ft², the floor absorbs more of the coating and you end up with the same results. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. You are assured a very good bond when the floor absorbs the coating.
This is why we believe that RockSolid recommends not performing a regular acid etch on the concrete and instead recommends using their milder Eco Etch formula. Grinding the concrete or performing an acid etch provides for a more porous profile that absorbs more of the coating.
Unless you have a fairly smooth concrete surface to begin with, we recommend covering no more than 200 ft² of garage floor for each burst pouch used. This should help provide for a slightly thicker application that when cured, will be thick enough to provide for a consistent color and glossy finish.
Remember, when a manufacturer states that a coating or sealer will cover up to a said amount, that number is based on an ideal surface condition for that coverage rate.
The other alternative is to just apply a second coat over the first. This not only assures a consistent and glossy color, it will also provide for a more durable coating. The second coat and any other subsequent coats (clear for example) will always have a higher coverage rate since none of the coating is being absorbed by the floor.
This information should help most people with avoiding this reported issue when factoring in the amount of product you will need to purchase.
I’m looking to apply RockSolid to my new 1500 sq ft garage. Concrete has cured for 30 days and a “Cure-and-Seal” was applied on day 2 of curing. Will I need to etch the concrete before applying the coating? I was under the impression that it would not require an etch. Temps are low, but I can get the air up to 50 or so and allow the concrete to warm up before applying.
Hello Jim. The first thing you will need to do is remove the cure and seal. Because it has “sealed” the concrete, an etch will have no effect and it will effectively block a coating from penetrating the concrete properly. The only way to remove is by grinding the concrete. Something to consider is that RockSolid does not recommend grinding the concrete before application. The reason for this is that RockSolid goes on rather thin and grinding will allow the coating to penetrate deeper, thus reducing coverage rate and creating a matte looking finish. You will most likely need two coats. We also recommend reading our article about how to ensure even color match. With 1500 square feet of floor, it’s going to require multiple kits. RockSolid does not always match well from kit to kit.
Regarding temperature, RockSolid can be applied in temps down to about 40 degrees. This temp is also required during the curing process (a few days). Remember, curing is chemical process – coatings do not dry like paint. If temps drop below 40 the curing will stop and the coating will not harden.
Thank you for the quick reply! It seems that I may be best waiting until I can at least get my concrete heated to ensure minimum temps are met. Is there another coating that you’d recommend putting down first before RockSolid?
And one additional question I have is regarding the trench drains. I have a trench drain in each bay with a metal grate over each. Would you recommend coating the trench base and walls as well?
One of the best type of garage floor coatings available today that are DIY friendly are single-part polyurea coatings. We discuss them here and outline the benefits over traditional residential quality DIY kits available from home improvement centers. There is no need to coat the inside of the trench drains. I would just recommend pulling the drain covers and make sure the coating runs over the edge. This will create a nice clean look. Just be sure to tape over any areas where a screw or bolt hole for the covers may get coated. Once the coating has cured, just reinstall your covers.
We did a garage floor using the rock solid product. All is good except two areas about 6” x 12” will not harden. What is a solution
Hi Gary. What was the temperature at time of application and did it get any cooler afterwards?
It was 50 degrees and damp outside. It did not get any cooler. Temperature Got up to upper 50’s
Yikes… OK. The temps aren’t too cold, but being damp outside is not good. It states in the application instructions not to apply if it’s damp outside. The humidity has apparently had an effect with the curing process. Sometimes applying a another coat over the uncured coat will activate the curing process, but that is something to talk with Rust-Oleum about. We recommend that you contact their customer service number and tell them what has happened.
How long after the first coat can I lay a second coat?
Thanks in advance, bill
Hi William. RockSolid will allow up to 7 days to apply additional coats of RockSolid. You generally need to wait a minimum of 8 – 12 hours minimum between coats.
I have the older Epoxy shield coat on the floor. Can I top cat it with the Rock Solid product?
Please advise. Thanks.
Hello Bob. Yes, you can do that. We have an article here about applying new coatings older coated floors.
One year ago I applied Valspar garage floor coating to a new garage floor. The floor had cured for 10 weeks before application, I etched the floor twice, washed and brushed it thoroughly, the outside temp was 65 degrees and I stayed off the new coating for 6 days after application. The first time I parked my car in the garage the floor had black tread patterns where the tires sat, since then the floor has peeled in numerous spots (mostly where the cars park).
The color I chose was blue with flakes in it.
The manufacturer never responded to my complaints.
My questions are: Is your product any better and do you have a blue color that I can use? I will not sand the entire garage but perhaps I can redo the most of the bad spots and apply your coating. Or do you have a clear coating that can be tinted?
Any help will be appreciated.
Hi Wallace. Just to avoid some confusion, All Garage Floors is an informational website only. We do not sell products. RockSolid is a coating manufactured and distributed for sale by Rust-Oleum. We list a couple of places in our article where it can be purchased, including some links to Amazon.
The Valspar coating you purchased is a low solids and inexpensive (relative to quality coatings) water-based epoxy coating. What you experienced is called hot tire pickup and is common with those types of coatings. RockSolid is better in terms of resisting hot tire pickup, but they do not offer the color blue. You can view their color chart here. It can be applied on top of the Valspar coating, but it would need to be sanded first with 120 grit sandpaper in order to obtain a mechanical grip. It you don’t prep the old coating properly, the new one will peel up. Our recommendation is to completely remove the Valspar coating first via grinding. The new coating is only as good as the what it is attached to. If the old coating is peeling in places, then the new coating will peel up with it.
Looking to put down a metallic or pearlescent floor in new garage. How will this stuff hold up to wheels from a floor jack? Will it leave scratches or pitting from the weight if there is some sand on the floor? Or pulling vehicle on it from salt and brined roads? Just curious. Thanks, Randy
Hello Randy. Providing you use a quality high performance clear coat, the surface will hold up fine to floor jacks and scratching. However, metallics and pearlescent floor coatings will highlight and make the normal small scuffs, dust, dust prints, and scratches stand out. You don’t usually see these things with with traditional colors of light grays and tans, especially with a background of color flakes if they are used. Metallics and pearlescents are very glossy and also darker. This combination is what makes little bits of dust, scratches and etc. stand out. We have found that this tends to frustrate many that want a pristine looking floor in their garage.
Hi guys great information I just have a question regarding the polycureamine, I put this stuff on my garage floor with flakes and was wanting to know if it would be ok to put a 2 part polyurethane clear coating over the top of it??
Hi Joel. Yes, you can apply polyurethane. It will require that you first rough up the current coating with 120 grit sandpaper and then wipe it down with denatured alcohol on a microfiber pad.
So I am looking into Rocksolid (or any DIY product) for a basement floor that failed with the epoxyshield basement kit. We prepped the floor by using bean-e-do to remove paint and mastic, then we patched larger cracks and holes with the rustoleum epoxy patch kit, then used radon crackseal for hairline cracks and finally used simple green to scrub/wash it all down. Finally used a edco single head 10″ diamond concrete grinder (think it was like 40grit) as well as a 4″ grinder with a turbocup.
Long story short, we mixed up a ton of the epoxyshield and tested it in areas that will have walls built on them and it had pinholes all through it and when it dried, was so thin it didn’t hide one bit of the coarseness from the grind. It looked terrible, not one bit of glassiness or one bit of smoothness. Just looked like rough sanded/grind concrete dyed gray. Some of the cans did seem damaged/leaked, maybe there was a problem with it?
So now I am looking for a DIY floor kit for a basement but want it fairly durable (doesn’t need to be as good as garage since I won’t have hot tires on it) and can provide a smooth layer over about a 30-40 grit grind and a few swirls here and there. From what I understood this grit was optimal for most epoxy but maybe not for thin water based kits like this that only lay 3mil? if thats right for the rustoleum products. Any advice would be appreciated!
Hi Joshua. Before I address your questions, have you done a proper moisture test for the basement?
So yeah I taped down a piece of plastic with duct tape and it was bone dry after 24 hours. In general the basement is really dry. We used rustoleum’s moisture stop just as a preventative measure.
Looking at my test patches that have dried now, I really don’t see the pinholes as much as I just see the texture from the grind on the concrete. The epoxyshield looks like a thinned paint on it pretty much. I tested it on two different concrete patches we had to make as well as the original concrete floor from the 40’s. All had the look of thinned paint on it which isn’t what I expected with an epoxy product.
OK. As long as it tests that way during the wet months you should be alright. How course is your concrete? Does it look similar to the texture in this image of a freshly ground garage floor or is it rougher than that or look more porous like a brick paver? Part or possibly all of the problems that you are experiencing is due to to your epoxy selection for the type of surface you have. EpoxyShield has a low solids content of just over 52%. This means that once it is applied, 48% of the product is going to evaporate while it cures and the wet film thickness is going to shrink. This is going to expose most imperfections in the concrete. Remember, this is a residential quality product designed for fairly smooth garage floors to begin with. If you look at the data sheets for EpoxyShield, it requires a wet film thickness of 6-7 mils, which results in a dry film thickness of 3-3.5 mils. This does not factor in what is absorbed into the concrete which is subject to how porous it may be. Low solids product cannot be applied real thick either or you experience problems with the carrier agents (48% water) not evaporating properly. The combination of a low solids epoxy, rough textured concrete and/or a porous surface will result in a very thin build with little to no gloss. What you require for your project is a high solids (greater than 90%) to 100% solids epoxy. With little to no water or solvents to evaporate out while it cures, the coating does not shrink and it retains the same look as when it was first applied. Once it is mixed, it is immediately poured in ribbons onto the floor and a squeegee is used to spread it out first. You then back roll with a roller. You won’t find this type of epoxy at your local home improvement center. It needs to be purchased from vendors that specialize in concrete coatings. You can find great examples of high solids epoxy from some of our sponsors. We have a list of them here if you want to take a quick look.
Thanks for all the details, very helpful. I am guessing you have researched epoxies “a little” bit, ha!
The concrete grind is probably slightly smoother than the picture. most of it doesn’t have that much aggregate showing but its kinds hard to tell how course it is. Its definitely not as porous as cinder block or a paver (no where close to that). The opened pores are fairly small unlike the pores in cinder block.
I have been researching/pricing the recommended epoxies you listed as well as others talked about on the site. My situation is slightly different in that I don’t need quite the durability of a garage coat but still want something strong enough to not scrape easily or peel with time and also want a certain amount of depth with self leveling to fill the pours. Are there any of the more DIY kits that offer closer to 6-8mil coverage in one coat and on the cheaper end? we are doing about 700 sf
Also will the Rustoleum moisture stop product cause any problems with other epoxies/coatings? I read the testing method of dropping water on the concrete to see if it beads or if it turns dark with the water soaking in but just wanted to make sure. Most epoxy products are quite adamant about removing any sealers in their instructions (which is easy to understand) and I am assuming this fortifying sealer is not the type they are talking about.
Hi Josh. Unfortunately, any coating that is designed to go on thicker with little to no shrinkage is going to be a commercial quality, high solids product. Moisture Stop by Rust-Oleum technically is not a sealer. It’s a densifier. It works by reacting with the minerals in concrete to form calcium silicate hydrate. This is what helps to fill the pores at the sub surface to add strength to concrete. The beneficial side effect is that it also helps to slow down or sometimes block moisture vapor from below. If the slab readily absorbs water, then that with the combined profiling from grinding will provide plenty of mechanical bite for a commercial coating.
Most companies prefer that you apply an epoxy primer first before applying a high solids epoxy though it is not mandatory. The primer is known as the ugly coat – similar to what you just witnessed with the EpoxyShield coating. This allows for the high solids epoxy to get the best coverage rates and highest mil thickness (since there is no absorption) and best color uniformity with no cosmetic issues due to outgassing and etc from the concrete. For your needs you can probably get away without having to use one if you like. The only issue that might pop up is outgassing. This is when moisture vapor that is trapped in the concrete rises out as the temperature rises. It can get trapped in thick coatings and cause bubbles. Since basements tend to keep a constant temperature it most likely will not become an issue. Epoxy-Coat is an example of a company that sells 100% solids epoxy. You can view their Basement Kit here.
Thanks Shea, their kit does look like it fits the bill and not a terrible price. It might be more than I am looking for but I definitely want the self leveling with enough mils to hide some of the grind.
Thanks for all the info. I am in the process of prepping my floor to use this product. The current floor was painted previously. I cleaned and scraped any loose paint and also etched the floor with the rustoleum cleaner/etcher. Can i use the Rock Solid now or is it advisable to use a primer first??
Hello Chris. According to RockSolid, any previous paint needs to be scrapped and then sanded. 120 grit sandpaper works best. Once you do that and then etch the bare concrete (you can’t etch paint), you are ready to go. Our advice, however, is not to apply a coating over paint, but that is up to you. Paint does not adhere as well as coatings do. As a result, places where the coating is adhered to paint is only going to perform as well as paint does (in terms of not peeling) since the coating is attached to the paint and not the concrete. It’s like building a nice house on a poor foundation.
So should I use muratic acid to strip and etch the floor??
Muriatic acid does not strip paint, Chris. It’s a common misconception that it works as a stripper, cleans oil stains off concrete, and etc. It will sit on the surface and do nothing except possibly discolor the paint. Muriatic acid solutions react with the free lime and other minerals in concrete in order to break down and open up pores at the surface to provide the proper surface profile. You need clean, bare concrete for etching. You will need to use a chemical paint stripper or have to grind in order to remove the paint. If you grind, you will need a minimum of two coats of RockSolid. If you read the comments and our review, it is a thin coating that has issues with color uniformity as a result of good penetration into the concrete. Unfortunately, the problem with patchy paint on a garage floor is that it forces you make a tough decision. You need to either remove everything to provide the proper surface for a quality coating to adhere well and last a long time, or you can do what was previously discussed and hope that you don’t have any issues down the road.
Great resource. I have older 30+ year unsealed concrete garage floor. Which type of etching solution to you recommend to be used with this ploycuramine type product? The Eco Etch or a traditional muriatic acid?
Hi Justin. Because RockSolid has issues with going on thin due to good penetration, we do not recommend doing a muriatic acid etch. This is too aggressive and will almost always result in requiring a second coat to achieve proper thickness and color uniformity. We would recommend Eco Etch or just use the citric acid etch that is provided with their kits.
Great read. Thanks for the info. I have a detached 2 car garage that was put down in 1964 (date was drawn in the corner). I removed the paint with diamabrush’s removal tool then powerwashed it. I plan on doing the etch next using rustoleum’s clean and etch, then filling cracks and craters with rusto’s patch repair, then applying rusto’s moisture control, and then using a primer. A random guy at the hardware store who said he does this for a living, has certificates and education in flooring etc. etc. told me I MUST prime… but after everything I have read and seen it is not done. He even said it would help with moisture. What are your thoughts on this? Do you think priming is needed or will help in any way? I plan on putting this stuff down pretty heavy so I only have to do 1 coat. May or may not clear coat. It is just a rec room.
Thanks,
Mike
Note: any readers out there, based on what I have read and seen on youtube, get quality Purdy rollers (the ones that comes with the kit leave fibers everywhere)
Hi Mike. Unfortunately, the hardware guy you talked to is not correct. We hear these stories all the time and sometimes it ends up in a bad experience and people come looking to us for help. Coatings are not the same as paint. This article about home improvement centers explains more. The only product that acts like a true primer is a coating – not primer paint like he is indicating. Coatings are chemically incompatible with paint and will not achieve the extremely strong chemical bond. Epoxy primers are lower solids epoxy designed to penetrate and bond with the substrate. They are known as the ugly coat. This article about primers explains more.
In your case, RockSolid makes for an excellent primer on its own because it penetrates the substrate so well. That is one reason that people complain about color uniformity across the floor with RockSolid. Because the coating is thin, if it penetrates too much it will be too thin and loose gloss and color richness. We recommend that you apply two coats and not one thick coat. RockSolid does not like to be applied too thick or you can get bubbles during the curing process. The first coat won’t look great, but the second coat will because it will not be absorbed by the concrete.
Because you already did a grind to the concrete, there is no need to etch. All you are going to do is open the pores even more and the first coat is going to be thinner. Rust-Oleum even states not to grind for RockSolid and the reason is because you lose coverage rate due to absorption. Regarding roller covers; the key is to run the roller cover first over a long strip of duct tape. This goes for all covers (Purdy covers are good also). This removes loose fibers from the manufacturing process. Just step on one end of the tape and hold the other while you run the roller back and forth over the sticky side of the tape. Regarding your repairs; make sure that you grind them flush afterwards or they will be obvious through the coating.
Thanks for the advice and tips Shea. I used the diamabrush “removal” tool not the “concrete prep tool”. It removed all the paint and I even used it dry the next day to clean up the concrete. I went over the whole floor like this. The floor is smooth though not gritty. I thought the etch gives the surface a rough sandpaper grit feel to it and that’s what you want? Also do you think the rustoleum moisture stop will help if I have a slight moisture problem. I guess I should probably do a moisture test again after I use the stuff before spending all that money on the rocksolid. Any advice on moisture would be great. Thanks!
How rough it feels after grinding is dependent upon how hard your concrete is. If you can place drops of water in various areas and the concrete immediately turns darker and absorbs the water then it’s ready to go. Moisture Stop by Rust-Oleum is a concrete densifier. It will help with moisture, but there is no way to tell if it will stop it until you moisture test. It takes approximately 7 days for it react with the concrete before you can check. If you still have moisture, then it’s going to require a calcium chloride moisture test to determine how much you have and what remedy would be required.
Thanks Shea. So I did a moisture test using the plastic sheet method. Left it for 2 days, wanted to wait for a good storm to roll through. I saw no evidence of moisture on the sheet or the concrete below it. In the meantime, I bought one of the calcium chloride moisure tests online but I am going to return it when it comes in. I did however notice around the perimeter in a couple spots the concrete has dark spots (not pooling) like coming from under the sheetrock wall. This is only around the perimeter (non traffic areas) in a couple spots and extends maybe 2 inches max into the garage. This is due to the storm, I need to put gutters on the side of the garage in the future to help. Will this be an issue if I put the floor down now. Thanks, Mike
From you description, Mike, you should be OK. Definitely get the drainage issue taken care of though so water does not pool up against the slab.
I appreciate all the help. Thanks Shea.
You’re welcome, Mike 🙂
Can I apply Rust-Oleum Rocksolid product on a wood floor, how much product should I purchase for 676 sq ft. and what prep work should I do?
Thank you!
Craig
Hello Craig. Yes, you can apply RockSolid to wood providing it’s not for use outdoors. It requires that the wood be clean and roughed up with 60 grit sandpaper. The stated coverage rate for RockSolid is 200-250 square feet per kit and that is for concrete. Wood absorbs more. We would recommend reducing your coverage rate to approximately 175 square feet. So, 4 kits should do it.
My garage has a slight slope which was done intentionally for drainage. It is very minor, just enough to encourage any water to head towards the outside. Can you see this being an issue? Also, is there any crack filler base that should be avoided? I have some Gripset Betta left from a different project and it would be good to finish that off if it’s suitable.
Hi Matt. No, the slight slope will not be a problem. Do not use the Gripset Betta. Proper crack repair products for coatings are epoxy or polyurea in nature. They are a two component filler that cures to a strength that is tougher than concrete. I could not find any data sheets from the manufacturer stating exactly what it is. Because it’s a single component product (not 2-part) that is flexible, it’s most likely a self-leveling type of polyurethane sealant. These are too soft for coating, they can’t be sanded or ground flush with the concrete to prevent the repair from telegraphing through the coating, and most coatings will not stick to it. This article here details more about the proper procedure and products required to repair cracks for coatings.
Hello,
With so much free time on my hands, I needed something to do and decided my 40yr old 462sqft garage floor needed an epoxy coating.
I’ve decided on using the Rocksolid system. I planned on grinding, primer, first coating of Rocksolid, second coating with flakes followed by Rustoleum clear coat with grit. My floor is smooth but appears to have a blue-ish colored sealer or paint on it. Water only puddles on it and doesn’t seep into it. I performed a moisture barrier test and after twenty four hours, the plastic was dry underneath.
I used Rustoleum Patch kit to fill in divots and scratches with the expectation that I would have to diamond grind the floor after learning that acid etching alone wouldn’t be sufficient.
But now I read on this blog where you say Rocksolid doesn’t recommend grinding the floor. I haven’t read that anywhere else but here.
Now I’m confused. Should I not have patched at this point? Should I only rent a sander Instead of a diamond grinder to smooth over the many patches I’ve made? I might be suffering from information overload!
Thanks.
Tony
Hi Tony. If you have a sealer present the only way to remove it is via grinding. RockSolid even states that in their application instructions. However, in talking with RockSolid customer service (Rust-Oleum), they do not recommend grinding if the concrete is in good condition and does not have a sealer present. They prefer that you use the provided etching solution – and we know why. RockSolid is not a thick coating and it penetrates concrete very well. As a result of this, there are many complaints of uneven color and gloss for a single coat application. This is because the coating is getting absorbed more in some concrete surfaces. This creates a very thin dry film thickness that allows concrete color to ghost through the coating thus reducing gloss and color tone. Some of these issues are also a result of people stretching out the coatings. Grinding only makes this potential issue worse since the concrete will absorb more.
The way to avoid these issues with RockSolid when having to grind your concrete is to apply two coats. The first acts as a primer (the ugly coat). The second coat will not penetrate into the concrete and will be much thicker with consistent color and gloss as long as you do not stretch the stated coverage rates. There are no proper primers for coatings that are not a coating unto themselves. For example, many concrete primers are latex acrylic paint. Paint does not adhere nearly as well to concrete as a true coating and most are not chemically compatible. Epoxy primer coatings are the industry standard for coating primers.
Ok then I misunderstood the context in the previous post I had read about grinding a bare floor, which mine is not. And I don’t need to use a separate primer to start with. Great, so you’ve saved me money and an extra step—well done!
Lastly, is there a particular type of notched squeegee I should use or will my 24” straight one be sufficient?
Thanks
Tony
RockSolid is a thin coating that goes on with a roller, Tony. It can’t be applied via a squeegee.
I would like to apply the Rocksolid clear coat and have some questions about the application temp. There will be sustained highs above 50 degrees today for 8 hours. Then over the next 48 hours the daytime highs will be 60 and 52 but the nighttime lows will drop below 40. Obviously not ideal but will the polycuramine still cure properly? Rustolium states do not apply if temps will go below 40 for 48 hours, not clear if they mean drop and stay below 40 or the whole time or hold off even if they will dip below overnight. Thanks for any input this is a great website!
Hi Lawrence. If the temps are going to be below 40 degrees for more than 3 hours or so at a time, we would recommend holding off. If it stays below 40 for much longer than that it will stop the curing process and the coating will remain soft.
Thanks, I ended up applying anyway due to time constraints. It went down at 6p. Temps are now forecast to be above 40 for around 30h before a short overnight dip below 40, hopefully for only a few hours. I might setup a space heater for that time period to be safe. Will let you know how it goes.
More than likely you will be OK, Lawrence. Just be prepared to give it a couple extra days to cure all the way.
Hello, Today I applied a second coat of the Rustoleum epoxy shield professional, the first coat was applied yesterday. The area of the garage is 420 sq. ft and 50 Ibs of chip have been used.
I have two different Rustoleum Clear coat products. One box is Rock Solid 250 sq. ft. coverage and the other is Rustoleum Epoxy Shield clear showing up to 500 sq. ft. If the floor has a epoxy shield coating will the Rock Solid Clear go further than the 250sq. ft. I was told it was ok to use the two different clear coat materials as they were comparable but would
appreciate your thoughts, I certainly do not want to make a mistake. Thank you.
Hello Ted. I’m glad you checked with us. No, do not use the RockSolid clear coat with EpoxyShield clear coat. They are two dissimilar products and will look different (polycuramine vs epoxy). Also, RockSolid may not chemically bond with the EpoxyShield. Never try to stretch out coatings as you will loose gloss, color tone, and protection. I’m guessing a home improvement store gave you all this info? RockSolid is a separate company that was purchased by Rust-Oleum 4 or 5 years ago. Though it has the Rust-Oleum name, they are completely different coatings.
Hello Shea, Thank you for your quick reply. It is fortunate that I checked with you and appreciate the heads up. The second coat, I will use the Epoxy Shield Clear coat. Thank you again.
If I over did it on the prep process , used a machine , then the rock solid etching and then used mirotic acid ,I wanted to get every thing up, it sounds like I going to have coverage problem, any thoughts .Should I prime it or plan on doing 2 coats of rock solid
Oh, wow. Yes, you way over did it. You are going to lose about 25-30% of coverage rate on the first coat. It will act as the primer coat (ugly coat). The second coat will achieve more accurate coverage rates and will produce the right color and gloss since you will not get any absorption into the concrete due to the first coat.
Hi Jim. The clear coat option is up to you. However, you may need to apply a second color coat if the first one goes on too thin causing uneven color tone and gloss.
Hi,
Just installed the Rock Solid polycuramine product in my 401 sf garage. Overall I am extremely happy with the outcome! There are some irregularities in the finish; however, it is in my opinion that this was the installers fault not the product. This product goes on very thin (3 mils) so any irregularities in the surface of the concrete such as cracks, crack repair, previous whatever’s will show up unless you address them. Theses conditions in my case had no adverse effect (that I am aware of) on the application of the product. However, after applying one coat on early Sunday I quickly determined I wanted to add the Clear Coat Topcoat to ensure good thickness consistently across the floor.
Just Food for Thought: As this website was the best source of research info I could find.
1) My garage was previously coated. I did several adhesion tests and the coating was adhering great. I pressure washed, cleaned with de-greased, sanded (80 grit sand paper & 3M Wheel on grinder) & solvent clean, etched ( there was some exposed concrete) filled large cracks and then re-sanded and solvent cleaned.
Applied first coat in 1.5 hours. Per the application time for temperature & humidity. I applied by myself, per directions, weather was good, Temp 80’s, relative humidity 60% – 70 %. Let cure 10 hours and applied top coat. The 1st coat was grey so the Clear Coat was very tough to see were it was applied. (*Note – Get help from 2nd person to see that everything was covered) I missed 3 or 4 small areas.
2) Coverage rates – 2.5 car Rock Solid Gray 1st coat and 2.5 car Top Coat. The garage is 401 sf and I had approx 50 sf of material (1st Coat) left over. The Top Coat I used every ounce. My garage is not new concrete so take coverage rates seriously and don’t short yourself. In my opinion they are under in their coverage rates by at least 20%!!!!
3) Wished i used more flakes. I would have help hide blemishes better? I used less than half of the supplied bag!
4) Top Coat I added the sand for slip resistant, half again, but this time I liked the result. You can see the sand but it is translucent ( How I noticed I missed some spots) and it is slip resistant!
5) I applied 2 coats in one day; however, weather was right. Started at 6 am, started applying at 7 am, finished , 830 am. Decided it needed a 2nd, applied at 6 pm and done at 645 pm.
6) Cleaning and prepping take a lot of time! I took 2 days (Includes removing all items from the garage which can be a huge task for some) to clean and surface prep. I did fill all the large cracks with recommended patch. Again, I overlooked the small superficial cracks which do show up.
Do not underestimate prep time if you are looking for a showroom floor!
I hopes this helps, as this website was by far the best for learning about The Rock Solid product.
Shea – If I did something that has you scratching your head please let me know.
Thank again!!!
Great job, Adam. You are spot on about the coverage rates. If your floor had not been previously coated you most likely would not have covered the 401 square feet with the one kit due to the concrete absorbing more of the coating.
I have a A 20 x 20 garage. I purchased four rocksolid metallic gold kits. I First used a grinder With a diamond wheel then the etch that came with the kit. I needed one extra kit to finish the garage. So total of 5 kits were used. All went well until this morning when I woke up and went to inspect the floor is full of air bubbles. They pop East enough but leave a crater. Also It was 70+ degrees out and no humidity. What can I do?
Hi Hector. The most likely explanation is that you did not allow enough time for the concrete to thoroughly dry. Though the surface may be dry, all that water and moisture that the concrete absorbed still needs to evaporate out. If the coating is applied too soon, that moisture vapor gets trapped under the coating and forms all of those bubbles as it tries to rise up and escape. If a paddle mixer was used to mix in the metallic powder, mixing it too fast and introducing air into the coating will do the same thing.
What you need to do is sand the entire surface with 100 grit sandpaper to knock down all those bubbles. Vacuum or sweep up the dust and then wipe the surface with denatured alcohol on a microfiber pad. You can then apply another coat to the floor and it will look like it should.
Hi,
I am planning to apply Rust-Oleum RockSolid Polycuramine along with Rust-Oleum Anti-Skid Additive. Can I mix these 2 items in a bucket for pouring on garage floor.
Also, did anyone use primer before applying Polycuramine? Is it recommended? Mine was a new concrete.
Thanks in Advance.
Hello Rams. You add and mix the anti-slip media into the polycuramine in a separate container after it has been mixed in the pouches first. The only true primers for coatings are epoxy primers. Concrete paint primer is not a coating (it’s latex paint) and is not compatible with coatings. If you want a primer coat to ensure good coverage and color uniformity, then apply two coats of RockSolid. The first coat acts as the primer, also known as the ugly coat.
Hello
I’m about to use rock solid Polycuramine garage kit but I’ve seen reviews about this product being easily scratched or damaged. Is there a coat I can add to make it more durable?
Thanks in advance
Hello Paulo. If you want something more durable, then you need to apply a higher quality coating system. RockSolid is designed as a residential quality DIY coating. If your budget allows for it, there are much better coating products available from concrete coating vendors that are commercial quality and last for years. This one here is just one example. Here is another. You might want to check out our sponsors which we have listed here as well.