When RockSolid introduced its new line of Polycuramine garage floor and interior coatings, we were left scratching our heads at first. After all, what in the heck is Polycuramine? We admit we had never heard of it before. Moreover, what happened to the old RockSolid Polyurea garage floor coating, and why the change? Furthermore, why is Rust-Oleum’s name on RockSolid’s product?
After being asked by more than one reader, we decided it was time to see what the Polycuramine fuss was about. We wanted to know if it’s better than garage floor epoxy as RockSolid claims. In addition, we wanted to know why Rust-Oleum is involved.
Lastly, we wanted to determine if the Polycuramine garage floor coating is better than the older Polyurea coating that it has replaced. As a result, we have done a deep dive into RockSolid to get a better understanding of what this coating is and if we recommend it.
This article was first published in July 2014 and has been updated to reflect the latest information. Please read the latest update near the end. It reveals the most common complaints and issues over the years that you need to be aware of.
What is Polycuramine?
To best describe what Polycuramine is, we need a brief history of RockSolid Floors. This will help explain why Polycuramine was developed and how Rust-Oleum became involved.
RockSolid Floors was established in 2007 as an affiliate of Citadel Floor Finishing Systems. Citadel is a well-established, 40-year-old plus industrial floor finishing manufacturer that specializes in polyaspartic and polyurea technologies.
Realizing that there was a DIY demand for polyurea coatings, RockSolid Floors was born to provide a friendlier DIY version of the commercial quality Citadel polyurea. The RockSolid brand is probably best known for providing the A and B components in ready-to-mix sealed burst pouches that do not require a mixing bucket.
In January 2014, Rust-Oleum acquired Citadel and thus inherited the RockSolid line of floor coating products. As a result, all RockSolid products now come with Rust-Oleum branding. All customer service inquiries for RockSolid go directly to Rust-Oleum as well.
Polycuramine is a newly trademarked product that was developed the previous year by Citadel and found its way into the RockSolid lineup. It’s a proprietary blend that is alleged to combine the best benefits of Polyurea, Polyurethane, and Epoxy.
The following is a quote from a RockSolid sales page:
RockSolid Polycuramine™ is the best of Polyurea, Urethane, and Epoxy chemistries. It combines these three chemistries and their key attributes into ONE indestructible, self-leveling, flexible, fast curing, high gloss coating system.
RockSolid states that its Polycuramine garage floor coating is 20 times stronger than epoxy paint. It has a 96% solids content, a high gloss finish, and is impervious to all chemicals. The coating can be installed in one day, walked on in 8 – 10 hours, and driven on within 24 hours.
It also has the added advantage of an installation temperature range of 40°F – 90°F. In addition, RockSolid has a low VOC content with minimal odor and a limited lifetime warranty as well.
Each Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating kit consists of one burst pouch of colored Polycuramine to cover up to 250 ft². Included are decorative color flakes, the required foam roller, concrete etch solution, and of course instructions. There are six colors to choose from as well – Black, Dark Grey, Grey, Tan, Mocha, and Modern Griege.
You can view their information page and color chart here.
Our evaluation of RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating
We feel that this new lineup for RockSolid couldn’t have come at a better time. Though the Polyurea garage coat kit that it replaced was a fairly good product, many of the reviews for it by the average DIY installer were less than great.
There are many benefits to a polyurea garage floor coating, but the pitfalls for the old RockSolid polyurea DIY coating was is in the installation. As a result, there were numerous complaints about delamination and finish issues.
Many if not most of these issues were due in part to the limited application time available. Polyurea cures fairly quickly. If it wasn’t applied in 20 to 30 minutes, it would begin to thicken up and problems ensued. It just wasn’t that DIY-friendly.
For example, it would not have enough time to seep into the pores of dense concrete that was prepped by etching and not by grinding. This led to delamination issues of the coating. Secondly, if you didn’t get the product down fast enough, the finish would not be very glossy and could get bumpy or lose its smooth texture among other issues.
After doing a bit of research, we learned that these problems should be solved with the new RockSolid Polycuramine coating.
First, we called the Rust-Oleum tech line. They stated that the new RockSolid Polycuramine formula has superior wetting characteristics (similar to epoxy). As a result, it allows the coating to penetrate the concrete much better for superior adhesion. This is a big help for concrete that is etched instead of prepped by grinding.
In addition, we learned that you have 45 minutes to one hour to apply the Polycuramine. This should be more than enough time to apply up to 250 ft² of product. The longer pot life should alleviate many of the finish issues that resulted from the short installation window of before.
However, we do have to question some of RockSolid’s marketing methods. They claim that their new Polycuramine formulation is 20 times stronger than epoxy paint. Really? Their older polyurea product claimed it was only 4 times stronger.
Try as we might, we could not find an actual 2-part epoxy floor coating with only a 33% solids content as RockSolid compares it to. After digging a bit deeper, we discovered that what they are comparing it to is paint – 1 part epoxy paint that is (link). That is like comparing apples to oranges.
1-part epoxy paint is not an epoxy coating and the only product available with such a low solids content. We feel that this is misleading if not deceiving. They should be comparing it to a true 2-part epoxy. It’s tactics like this that create ruined expectations of garage floor coatings.
They also claim that the new Polycuramine blend combines the best of Polyurea, Polyurethane, and Epoxy. That isn’t necessarily true either. History has shown time and again for sealers and coatings that by combining the best of everything you will not get the best attributes of each ingredient.
Polyurethane for example is known for being very resistant to chemicals, has high abrasion resistance, and is U.V. stable. Though RockSolid Polycuramine has good chemical resistance, it is not U.V. stable and can yellow if exposed to direct sunlight for lengths of time – just as epoxy does.
It’s also not nearly as resistant to abrasion as most polyurethane or polyurea coatings. For example, the abrasion rate for Polycuramine is 40 mg. That’s about equivalent to a high solids epoxy and better than the inexpensive epoxy garage kits. However, a typical abrasion rating for polyurea is approximately 8 – 12 mg. You can find the RockSolid datasheets here.
This means that a polyurea coating would last much longer or wear many times slower than Polycuramine. We suggest reviewing how to read datasheets for coatings to learn more.
Another concern is that RockSolid Polycuramine is a thin coating. It has a dry film thickness of only 3 mils. That’s about half as thick as a typical polyurea coating. A high solids epoxy is approximately 8 – 10 mils thick for a DIY kit. Our guess is they need the coating to be thinner to get the coverage rate they require to keep the price point competitive.
As a result of the thin mil color coat, we recommend a second coat of clear Polycuramine to provide for an overall thicker coating. This will protect the color coat, and provide a deeper glossy look.
Would we recommend RockSolid Polycuramine?
With all that said, initial responses from consumers have been positive. Reports are that the new RockSolid Polycuramine garage coating formula is easier to apply DIY than the previous polyurea formula.
Few issues about the finish have been raised so far that we are aware of. In fact, it’s one of the most glossy coatings you can apply. Plus, the added benefit of being able to apply it in a wider range of temperature extremes is something you cannot do with epoxy garage floor coatings.
One nice advantage to the Polycuramine garage coat that we failed to mention is that it has a 7-day recoat window. This means that you can wait up to 7 days to apply another coat to the floor without having to prep it first. All that is required is to make sure it is clean.
This can be a great advantage to the average DIY installer who may only have a limited time to work on their floor. Most coating products have a recoat window of 24 hours or less.
Though the new RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Coat is only 3 mils thick, we feel this formulation is superior to that of comparable DIY coatings such as Rust-Oleum’s 2-part EpoxyShield product, Quikrete Epoxy garage floor coatings, or Valspar Epoxy Coatings as an example.
Yes, RockSolid Polycuramine is more expensive than these traditional DIY garage coat kits. However, the warranty is much better. Plus, it fills a void for the consumer who wants a quality DIY product that is easy to apply but may be intimidated by the cost and application of the thicker and more expensive multi-coat garage floor coatings.
RockSolid also has an easy-to-apply metallic garage floor coating which is now gaining some attention. It goes down twice as thick and has a very nice appearance.
This post may contain affiliate links. If you use these links to make a purchase, we may earn a small commission. As an Amazon Associate, All Garage Floors earns from qualifying purchases. You can read our full disclaimer here.
Where to purchase RockSolid Polycuramine products
We’ve had to update this section on multiple occasions since we first posted this article in early 2014. Rust-Oleum has since expanded the distribution of RockSolid and it is now available from most home improvement centers and online.
If you don’t have one of these stores near you, we suggest purchasing RockSolid Garage Floor Coatings here at Amazon. We have found that on many occasions it is available at a cheaper price.
In addition, you can find the optional RockSolid Clear Coat here.
Final thoughts
It’s too soon to know if RockSolid Polycuramine is the DIY wave of the future in garage floor coatings. However, it does appear to have much better performance and wear than the traditional DIY epoxy garage floor kits found at your local home improvement centers and auto stores.
Reviews so far have been positive and you can bet we will be keeping a close eye on the developments of this new product.
———- 2023 UPDATE ———-
It’s been over 8 years now since we first evaluated and wrote about the new RockSolid Polycuramine garage floor coating. To date, we have heard very few issues relating to the actual performance of the coating in terms of adhesion, hot tire pickup, and wear.
This is a strong indicator that it performs and lasts longer than the traditional low solids DIY garage floor coating kits such as EpoxyShield.
However, we have found that there is one primary flaw with RockSolid. Simply put, RockSolid does not provide enough coating material for the coverage rates they list. And this creates a couple of irritating issues that people are not happy about. The first is color uniformity and finish.
If you scroll down you will see that we have well over 900 comments for this article. A good percentage of these are questions or complaints regarding cosmetic problems with single-color coat applications.
These people have been reporting patchy areas or sections of the coating that appear less glossy and/or slightly different in color. Some have also complained about small spider cracks showing through.
The source of these issues is due to the coating being too thin in those areas. As with all coatings, if a single coat application on bare concrete is too thin, the appearance of the coating will not be good. The color tone and finish will change and lose gloss. It can even look slightly transparent with the concrete color showing through.
There is a reason why this happens with RockSolid.
As we originally stated, Polycuramine penetrates properly prepared concrete well – as it should. In addition, the density and porosity of a concrete slab can vary. This means that some areas of the concrete will absorb more coating than others. This is normal.
When RockSolid Polycuramine is applied to slabs that are less dense and/or more porous in areas, the limited amount of material (90 oz) provided in one burst pouch mix does not provide enough thickness at the recommended coverage rates to counteract the additional penetration and absorption of the material. As a result, the coating is too thin in those areas after it cures.
This isn’t necessarily a bad thing in terms of performance. You achieve a very good bond when the concrete absorbs the coating. However, this means you need to purchase and apply a second color coat to achieve the rich color, glossy finish, and durability that it should have. The first coat essentially acts as a primer coat.
The reason spider cracks tend to show through is due to the good penetration qualities of Polycuramine. It allows the thin cracks to absorb more material as it cures. As a result, the cracks show through and look dark. This can be avoided by properly filling spider cracks in the concrete (link) beforehand or by the application of a second coat.
The 250 ft² maximum coverage rate is only possible under ideal conditions consisting of newer concrete that is smooth, consistently dense throughout, and with no cosmetic defects. It can be obtained, however, when being applied as a second coat or over a previously coated floor that will not absorb the Polycuramine.
If you purchase RockSolid, we recommend a maximum coverage rate of no more than 200 ft² when applied to bare concrete. Slightly less is preferable. This should help provide for a thicker application. When it cures, it should be thick enough to provide a consistent color and glossy finish.
If you prep your garage floor concrete via grinding, then you will require a minimum of two color coats – period. The first acts as the primer coat and the second provides the required thickness to obtain the proper color and gloss.
There is something else to be aware of as well. RockSolid Clear Coat states that a single-car kit can be applied over the color coat of a 2.5-car kit – up to 500 ft². This makes the clear coat especially thin. Though consumers like the way the clear coat performs and looks, the number one complaint is that you need to use more than what Rust-Oleum RockSolid recommends.
The second big issue with RockSolid Polycuramine garage floor coatings is that it is more expensive than epoxy, particularly for what you get. And this is why we believe that Rust-Oleum RockSolid recommends the overly generous coverage rates. We are guessing that this was a decision that was made to try and keep the cost down to compete against epoxy kits.
To make things worse, Polycuramine has become even more expensive in the past few years. At the time of this update, you can purchase a much better commercial-quality single-part polyurea floor coating with the same coverage rates for less money.
These polyurea coatings are almost twice as thick as RockSolid. They have a very long pot life for easy application, they are U.V. stable, and have far superior abrasion ratings. Here is an example of a single color coat of AWF Polyurea that costs less for the same coverage.
The one consideration with these commercial quality polyurea coatings is that they are not low VOC coatings as RockSolid is. They should only be applied in a garage or similar environment and not inside a home such as a basement.
Our goal with this update is not to talk you out of purchasing a RockSolid Garage Floor Coating kit. However, what we are trying to do is inform and educate you about the issues you need to be aware of before making that decision.
Do we still think RockSolid is a good-performing DIY garage floor coating? Yes – if you follow our recommendations about coverage rates. However, there are now better performing easy-to-apply commercial-quality polyurea coatings that can be purchased for similar pricing.
Nick Benson says
I just had a steel bldg installed on brand new concrete. The concrete is not super smooth and it has never even been walked on. Do I still need to etch it to use the rock solid? It is 1800 s/f.
Shea says
Hi Nick. Yes, you still need to etch. This article here explains in detail why. If your concrete is not real smooth, you may want to think twice about using RockSolid unless you are planning for two color coats. It’s a fairly thin coating and may not be as smooth as you like. In addition, you might have color issues with one coat. I suggest you read our article here about RockSolid, particularly our update near the end. It’s just something to be aware of.
Nick Benson Sr says
Thank you Shea; Well my concrete contractor was NOT the best I have ever used and my floor is not super smooth. I will no doubt use two coats and hope for the best. I did read your article and will have a professional apply the Rock Solid because he will be faster than I. I also will lightly grind it to try and remove some of the imperfections. Yes, there are better products I could use, but the cost is much higher and for my needs, I think Rock Solid will work. I’ll know in about six weeks.
Shea says
Hi Nick. If you etch, use the product that comes with the kits. Acid etching is more effective, but the fumes from it can actually cause surface rust in a steel building. Just as an FYI, two coats of RockSolid for 1800 square feet is going to require 8 2.5 car garage floor kits. Rust-Oleum states one 2.5 kit will cover up to 500 square feet, but it rarely if ever does. So you will need 4 kits for the first coat and 4 kits for the second coat. For about the same price, you can purchase a commercial quality epoxy primer and 93% solids epoxy base color coat that would be over twice as thick as two coats of RockSolid and more durable as well. This 1800 square foot kit here is just one example. And unlike RockSolid, the coverage rates are accurate.
Nick Benson Sr says
Hi Shea: Thank you for all your excellent advice! Because of my inexperience I had contacted a professional installer that prefers Shirwin Williams floor coating but it is MUCH more expensive. He is however willing to use the Rock Solid that I have already purchased. Because of my advanced age and health, he was extremely concerned about the fumes and what it could do to my lungs. He gave me some strong advice and I decided to just have him prep the floor with his acid wash. We are negotiating his applying the Rock Solid because he would be faster than me, and I agree with him that he would not be held responsible (by me) for the finish as my concrete is a horrible finish. But now, I am considering grinding it first (my son could do that) and having the professional acid wash it and apply the Rock Solid. Do you have thoughts on this? And as a FYI: Home Depot Sku #1002979369 comes with four packages of Rock Solid that will cover allegedly 1000 s/f but it does not come with etching solution. The cost is $340.00 and I purchased two of them so allegedly I could cover 2000 s/f. I may buy more because if I grind the floor first to give it even a halfway decent smoothness, I understand that the floor will absorb even more Rock Solid. Your thoughts? Again, thank you for all the responses!
Shea says
Hi Nick. If you grind the entire floor, then etching is redundant and not recommended. Grinding is always better than etching. Again, if using an actual acid etch, the fumes can cause metal to rust at the surface. This is something to consider with a metal building. Two color coats of RockSolid would be sufficient if grinding.
Richard Kubica says
I am in the process of prepping my 250sq ‘ garage floor but I still have dark discoloration on roughly half the surface . I have finished 2 power washing sessions with Zep Concrete cleaner and it has definitely lightened most of the area . The slab is 70 yrs old . Is there a way to determine if my prep is adequate ? I’m planning on using the RockSolid Polycuramine grey with a clear coat .
Shea says
Hi Richard. Discoloration generally is not a problem as long as it is not discolored from being oil soaked. Once you etch the surface with the product supplied in the kit, make sure the concrete has thoroughly dried and then test the surface by placing water drops in various areas. If the concrete immediately turns darker and absorbs the water drops in less than a minute, then the concrete is good to go. However, if the water just sits there or beads up, then you have more work to do.
Bryce says
What if the concrete ‘is’ discolored from being oil soaked in a couple of small areas? Am I ok to proceed with the coating as long as those areas have been properly cleaned and water doesn’t bead up in the testing steps you mentioned above? Thanks.
Shea says
Hi Bryce. It’s not unusual for concrete to be permanently discolored or to look darker once the oil has been removed. This is typical for long term oil stains that finally get properly cleaned. If the water penetrates the surface and does not turn a rainbow color from contact with oil, then the coating should adhere without issue.
Bryce says
Ok, thank you!
Stacy oye says
Hi,
I just applying rock solid grey with the chips. The next day I noticed thin patches and reading the questions and comments, the suggestions were that 2 coats is a good idea. My question is, can I do a second coat even if I applied the chips? Can I apply a second coat and add more chips?
Thanks
Shea says
Hi Stacy. Yes, you can do that. RockSolid allows up to seven days to recoat without further prep. Just make sure the surface is clean before applying another coat. If it’s been a few days and the surface is dusty, you can wipe it down with denatured alcohol or equivalent applied liberally to a microfiber mop pad. It will evaporate within a minute and be ready to go.
Stacy Oye says
Hi, finished applying the second yesterday and took a peek before work this morning. Looks great other than the color match between coats. The floor looked and felt dry but left some foot prints. How can I remove them? Can I buff them out somehow?
Thanks
Shea says
Yikes… Unfortunately, you can’t buff coatings. Attempting to do so will degloss the finish. This leaves you with two options. The first is to leave the footprints as is and consider them a signature of your work. The other option is to sand them out and apply another coat. If you opt to apply another coat, I would recommend batch mixing to get an even color and tone throughout the floor. We discuss how to do that here.
Roland says
Is it necessary to add a clear coat to protect the chips. I heard somewhere that the chips will degrade over time without it?
Shea says
Hi Roland. A clear coat is not mandatory, however, it has many advantages. One such advantage is that it locks in the color flakes and protects them. Without it, color flakes that are not adhered well can have a tendency to come loose during cleaning or in high traffic areas. This article about clear coats explains more.
Christine says
I just painted the garage with RockSolid color Gray High Gloss yesterday. But now i like the metallic looks, the showrooms shiny look, can i just paint it over as a second layer? Please help! Thank you!
Shea says
Hi Chistine. Yes, you can do that as long as it has been less than 7 days (recoat window) since it was applied. If it’s been longer than that, you will need to degloss and rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper first. Keep in mind, you will need to purchase double the amount of coating because RockSolid metallic requires a coverage rate half that of the standard garage floor coating in order to get the metallics to flow properly. If it’s been a few days and the surface is dusty, we recommend wiping it down first with denatured alcohol applied to a microfiber mop head.
Christine says
Thank you Shea for your reply. I forgot to add that when i applied the rocksolid gray high gloss i also sprinkled in the chips. So if I reapply the coat with RockSolid metallic, will it still gives me the showroom looks? Thanks again.
Shea says
Color flakes are not a big deal if you were coating over them with the same coating as the first. However, there is a possibility that you see the bumpy impressions of the color flakes with just one coat of the metallic coating. You will want to first scrape the color flakes well using a plastic putty knife with a 6″ – 10″ wide blade. This will knock down chips that are sticking up and remove any loose ones. As long as you go with the proper coverage rate, it should make most of the color flakes disappear. However, there still may be some that you will be able to see through the coating. If so, a second coat of metallic will be required.
Christine says
Thank you for your speedy respond! I’m going to start on it now. You’re awesome 🙂 Thanks again.
West says
Thank you for the great evaluation of polycuramine. If I understand correctly I can install the metallic polycuramine and then the next day I can install a clear polyurethane over it without any additional prep for that second coat and then they would bond together and I would have a more UV stable floor?
Shea says
Hi West. You can certainly apply a proper polyurethane for concrete floor coatings. However, polycuramine is a proprietary blend. Unlike other coatings, it’s never been officially tested to see if other coatings are compatible to form a chemical bond when being applied within the recoat window. Rust-Oleum states they have not done testing for other manufacturers coatings and will not warranty for it. What you can do though, is wait a few days for the polycuramine to cure sufficiently and then degloss the surface by roughing it up with 120 grit sandpaper. Wipe it down with denatured alcohol and then apply the polyurethane. This is the typical process used to achieve a mechanical bond for coatings that have not been tested for chemical compatibility or that are outside the chemical recoat window.
Christopher Derouen says
I have applied RockSolid Metallic on my kitchen and utility room floors. I fist sealed with a solid gray and then applied a top coat with the Metallic but, while at an angle there is still a high looking shine, in spots where cleaning has been done it dulls. Is there a recommendation for cleaning the coating without it leaving dull patches where it was cleaned? And 2nd, is there a way to polish the dull spots that have been created by cleaning things that have spilled?
Shea says
Hi Christopher. You can’t polish coatings. Any attempt will degloss the surface. What products are you using for cleaning?
Christopher Derouen says
Not sure what is being used for normal cleaning except for the 2 problem spots which I used some chemicals to removes some spills. Now I know I can’t use that. I guess from here on out I will just use warm water with dish soap maybe, unless you have a suggestion.
Thanks,
Shea says
Some chemicals, particularly those with an acid base will degloss coatings. Warm water will clean up most spills. If necessary, you can use a mild solution of ammonia and water. Never use a scrub pad unless it’s a soft scrub.
josh says
I’m a contractor and my guys missed a few cracks before applying the rock solid product. Its only been 1 day so far, is it possible to easily fix the cracks and reapply a second coat to fix the problem?
Shea says
Hi Josh. RockSolid allows for up to seven days to recoat without further prep being required. This will allow you enough time to fill the cracks with the proper epoxy or polyurea concrete crack repair material. Make sure to grind or sand the repairs flush or they will telegraph through the coating. Keep in mind that RockSolid is a thin coating. The color tone over the repaired areas may look different since they will only have one coat compared to two coats for the surrounding areas.
josh says
Thanks so much for the fast response….Im really up against it right now.
So I am planning on using the Rust-oleum Concrete patch & repair 2 part Epoxy and then sanding it down smooth and vacuuming.
Do you recommend wiping down the sanded down spots with anything in particular before applying the second coat of Rock Solid? And do I need to prime the Concrete patch or just apply the Rock solid directly onto it?
Thanks so much!!!!
Shea says
Just wipe down the sanded areas with some denatured alcohol or equivalent.
Jim says
What clear coat do you recommend for the Rock Solid polycuramine coatingJ
Shea says
Hi Jim. We recommend that you use the RockSolid clear coat.
Janet says
I used Rust-Oleum Concrete and Garage Interior/Exterior Recoat Primer. Do I still need to use the concrete etch?
Shea says
Hi Janet. The concrete etch is for concrete, not paint. If you applied the primer, then you can’t etch. Hopefully you applied it to bare concrete that was sealed or concrete that already has paint on it. It will not work well for bare concrete that is not sealed.
Janet says
Thank you. The floor had epoxy paint which was old and worn. Doing a refresh.
Shea says
OK, you are good then.
Cathy says
Is there a time limit to apply a second coat of Rock Solid textured clear coat ?
Shea says
Hi Cathy. When applying a RockSolid coating over another RockSolid coating, you have up to 7 days to do so. This does not apply if applying RockSolid over a different brand of coating.
Brittni Thompson says
Hello,
I read this thread and messaged people rustoleum partners on instagram before applying my rocksolid kit. I used the regular rocksolid and batched my paint so I did not have different colours.
I was very careful with the prep as well and followed all the instructions. Unfortunately for the first part of my 650 sq ft garage the paint went down fine but as it dried it showed all the streaks of the roller. I have contacted Rustoleum to see why this is occurring but they have not got back to me yet. Has anyone else encountered this ?
Shea says
Hi Brittni. Roller streaks usually occur when pressing down too hard on the roller and/or from trying to stretch the coating further than the coverage rate. Not much pressure is required to roll the coating at its appropriate rate. It’s not like painting a wall. If the roller starts to making a sound with the coating (kind of like it’s sticking), then it means you need more coating material. Hopefully Rust-Oleum will get back to you. How did you prep the concrete? Did you use three burst pouch kits for one coat?
Brittni Thompson says
I used a razor blade to get any thick paint splotches up that were dropped over the years. Then we used the Rustoleum degreaser on full strength (5 people scrubbed the floor with us) then we fully rinsed using a regular spray hose. We then squeeged that away. Then later in the evening, we did the acid etching that came with the kit and fully scrubbed that until it bubbled and rinsed and again squeegee.Then 48 hours after etching we began painting.
I measured out my garage into three sections. I made sure we used one kit worth of paint per section, so I don’t think it went on too thin. I think it would be weird for us to be pushing too hard for Section 1 and not section 2 and 3 which came out perfect. I have pictures but i don’t think it allows me to attach pictures here.
Our garage is about 620 sq ft and we used 3 single car kits. Any tips for how we can fix the one section ? should we buy 3 more kits and redo the whole floor so we can get a nice colour match ? Are we okay to paint over top of the paint chips.
Shea says
Your prep and amount of kits used was fine, Brittni. Assuming you switched to a new roller (as you should) with each batch, it’s possible that you had a roller issue. Less plausible, but still possible, is that there was something wrong with the hardener in the first batch. Applying a new coat over the color flakes is fine. RockSolid allows for up to 7 days to recoat without further prep of the surface. Were your three areas naturally divided by a contraction joint? If so, you shouldn’t have any issues. However, if your floor is seamless you will have a cosmetic issue. Coatings do not blend together like paint on a wall does. The new coating will have obvious overlap marks and the color flakes won’t blend seamlessly together in a random pattern. If the latter is the case, I would recommend calling Rust-Oleum to air your grievance. Their customer service is usually very good. I would ask for three new kits since one kit will only one solve problem, but create another.
Brittni Thompson says
Bahumbug! I did not read anywhere about switching rollers. . . .I think since this was the first section and the latter sections turned out fine, it was not the roller. When I go to re-do/ add a second coat I will switch rollers.
No contraction joint so i currently have the cosmetic issue. I know exactly what you are saying about seams and even if i was okay with the seam it’s going to be a different shade of grey since I can’t batch with the colour currently on the floor.
I also was wondering about the hardener. I batched according to the article you wrote, so it is plausible that there were issues with the activator from the first pouch as that whole section looks weird.
Is there any articles on disposing of the material ? I imagine all my paint buckets, paint trays, and the brushes I used to cut in should all be thrown out as the paint will harden on it ? I am guessing there is no way to clean it without making a mess . . .
Shea says
For disposal, just let it all cure and harden. Once it does, it’s environmentally safe to toss in the garbage.
Brittni Thompson says
Okay, Rustoleum is saying that they normally do not cover this issue as I colour batched which they do not recommend . . . Funny because you have a blog post where you qoute that they recommend colour batching! I gave them your qoute and will wait to see what they say. Not only that but their sponsored partners all recommend colour batching on their blog reviews . .
Second, they are proposing only providing me with two more kits as they are saying the coverage rate will be better since I already have one layer down . . .
what are your thoughts on this, we both stated that we thought we should be redoing with 3 kits above.
Shea says
Hi Brittni. Yes, you should recoat with three kits, not two. Though Rust-Oleum is good with trying to rectify problems for customers, their customer service representatives do not have hands on experience and just refer to a technical manual of some sort. One kit will go a maximum of 250 square feet – period. It flatly states that in their technical data sheets. RockSolid is a fairly good performing coating, but it’s biggest problem is the stated coverage rates. Polycuramine is expensive and we believe they came up with these coverage rates in order keep costs down. The biggest complaints and problems that our reader’s contact us about with RockSolid are cosmetic issues with the first coat. 95% of these problems are due to the product being applied too thin from following these rates.
Brittni Thompson says
Definitely read that thinning problem throughout your comments which is why I tapped off my garage into three sections which would be approximately 200 square feet each. Still had problems. I will continue to negotiate with them. I thought since I did so much research and was perfect with my prep it would be fine but I feel like if i could do it again we would choose a completely new product. . . its hard to guarentee anything.
Also in Canada, this product is 200-240 dollars for a 1 car garage! The prices add up really fast. Its 5,000 to get a professional in to do it. By the time you add cleaning supplies, brushes etc if you are doing three coats (2 paint and 1 clear) you are coming up to 2K . . . overall 3k savings but even with batching there is not a perfect colour match, you don’t have the best adherence as other products and it’s not UV stable. Something to think about if you are reading this and haven’t begun your project yet.
Matthew says
I am planning to do the floor of my garage. I’ve never used the Polycuramine before, however, I’ve installed probably close to 20 Polyurea floors. I have used bead-blasters and grinders to prep floors, but never the etching product. Since I am equipped (have my own grinders, vac, etc.) and have enough experience with Polyurea, I’m questioning if the Polycuramine advantage of being more “DIY-friendlier” to install might be redundant to me? Here are my questions: 1) I’m planning a full broadcast of paint chips/flakes. Will the thinner coat be “thick enough” for these to adhere? I will be rolling a top coat after. 2) I have plenty of Polyurea 2-part “mender” for patching cracks and pits. Once applied and ground flush, will the Polyurea product (cured by the time a base coat would go down) be compatible with the Polycuramine? I’m just really disappointed that it seems so hard to locate actual Polyurea kits for the DIYer anymore.
Shea says
Hello Matthew. RockSolid DIY polycuramine is not what you want. It’s a residential quality coating that is not intended for, nor will accept a full broadcast of color flakes. It has a DFT of only 3 mils. You need a minimum of 5-6 mils for a full broadcast of color flakes. Plus, it will not work with aggressive grinding unless you use the first coat as a primer coat.
Take a look at this article here about single-part polyurea. This is more in line with what you are looking for. Two of the three vendors listed offer full broadcast options. There are links to all three.
Matthew Erwin says
Thank you Shea for the quick response to my question, as well as the helpful links. Very helpful!! I wrote to Armorpoxy to inquire about the amount of the single-part Polyurea product I’d need for my roughly 600 sqft garage. Since I have plenty of paint chips for a full broadcast, I’m only looking to buy tan base coat and clear top coat. He replied and said I’d need to get 2 gallons of base with tan tint packs and FOUR gallons of clear top. I plan to write back to them, but doesn’t that seem odd? Usually top coat has better coverage than base coat…at least that’s my experience. Top coat does not need to penetrate the concrete…but rather, perhaps a slight bit more surface “technically” with the texture of the paint chips. What are your thoughts? I can’t imagine the tint packs are anywhere near a gallon a piece to make the base coat total also 4 gallons?!?!
Shea says
Hi Matthew. The reason for the additional clear is due to the full flake broadcast. Once they are properly scraped and the excess removed, all the nooks and crannies from those flakes absorb a lot of the first coat and the coating does not provide much mil thickness. A second coat of clear is required to build up thickness and smooth the surface out a bit.
Matthew Erwin says
Thanks for the explanation, Shea! We usually only did one top coat. But I can imagine a second coat is a bonus! I will do that. By the way, I also got a product estimate from Garageflooring LLC, and they also quoted twice as much clear as base. Thanks again!!
Wicus van de Venter says
Hi, I stumbled on this product through the web and it looks promising. Will it work when the garage floor does not have a damp course installed? If I put a solid object on my floor after a day or two it is wet.
Thanks
Wicus
Shea says
Hi Wicus. If you can place a flat object on the surface and the concrete turns dark and wet, then you have moisture coming up through the slap from underneath. Coatings will not work because the moisture from within will cause the surface of the concrete where the coating is adhered to deteriorate. The coating then begins peeling up everywhere. You need to address the moisture problem first. There are special moisture vapor blocking epoxy coatings that can be applied, but it first requires a moisture test of the concrete and then aggressive grinding for the coating.
Sri says
I have applied Rocksolid polycuramine (Dark Grey) (2.5 car kit for a 2 car garage) on a good day (78 F) and humidity in 50 % range. The surface was prepped(etched etc) 2 weeks prior and very clean. Part of the floor ( roughly 1/4 th of of total area) is still tacky after 3 full days. Contacted rustoleum and they promised to send a refund check for 2.5 car kit and suggested to recoat . They did mention(I have email ) that says recoat can be done with on 30 days without any other prep as long as floor is clean.
Will this work ? Please advise.
Shea says
Hello Sri. We don’t really know how to comment on that. Rust-Oleum’s own technical data sheets for RockSolid under the heading “Product Features” states a 7 day recoat window without sanding. We have never heard or read about Rust-Oleum approving a 30 day recoat window. If it was us and we were past the 7 day window, we would first rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper before applying it.
Sri says
Thanks Shea. I will try to get with in 7 days. Its hot, humid and good chances of rain here in midwest, waiting for a decent day. Rustoleum says no rain in next 48 hrs of application. Too many constraints 🙂
Do you advise to wipe with denatured alcolhol ? Will it help/hurt ?
Shea says
The denatured alcohol will not hurt. It cleans up the fine dust and provides a better surface for the coating to adhere to.
Sri says
Hi Shea,
Did the second coat today morning and it cured great. Now to topcoat , any advise as to if the coverage on the box is realistic or do I count on 2X the advertised coverage. Thanks much.
Shea says
Hi Sri. The coverage rate for recoats is much more accurate to what the RockSolid instructions state.
Jeremy says
Can you put Rocksolid on self leveler concrete? I have seen pros put primer and epoxy just 24 hours later on rapid set self leveling concrete. Can I do the same with Rocksid? It doesn’t seem to have moisture after a few days old now. I’d rather not wait 28 days if I don’t need to like with regular poured concrete. What are your thoughts? Thank you
Shea says
Hello Jeremy. As long as the product used is designated as a wear surface and is applied at less than 1/2″ thick, you can typically apply a coating to it within 24-48 hours. The technical data sheets for the product you use will give you the curing times. What you do not want to use is a concrete underlayment. These are not wear surfaces and not approved for coatings. They are designated as an underlayment for wood flooring, tile, carpet, and etc. Also, you cannot etch self-leveling concrete due to the polymers used. You will need to lightly grind the surface in order to provide the proper profile for a coating to adhere properly.
Bob Waddell says
Hello.
Based on what I’ve read on Amazon and reading your recommendations, I would like to start my 2 1/2 car garage project in this manner.
1. I will clean the concrete surface until I can eat off of it. 2. Then I will clean patch and waterproof all of the imperfections in the concrete.
3. Then I will sand It and clean it again for lunch.
4. Then I will degrease and etch the concrete with rocksolid or should I use a rocksolid primer. What do you think?
(Based on what I found so far, the rocksolid product will be absorbed into etched concrete. So I’ve decided to paint with a rocksolid primer coat first. Should I do both?or what can I get away with just the primer.
5. I have two boxes of rocksolid for 2 1/2 cars. I am hopeful that if I primer it properly then it will cover my entire 600 feet of garage space.
6. Next I will put on a light dusting of flakes. (1 lbs for 200sf).
7. Then I will supply a single coat of of rocksolid clear
coat.
This is budgeted as less than $550-$740. This is all Rustoleum product. The two boxes of products will be separated into four different construction joints to eliminate the color differences. Do you think I have good plan?
Oh one question. How do I handle the floor drain in the middle. Are there any problems to look out for
Thanks
Shea says
Hello Bob. RockSolid does not make a primer coating. Also, do not confuse Rust-Oleum Concrete and Garage Recoat Primer for an actual primer for coatings. It’s a latex paint that is designed to be applied over sealed concrete and old coatings. It’s not intended or designed for bare concrete that has been properly prepared. RockSolid is a thin mil coating (like a primer) that adheres best when applied to bare concrete.
You will need one 2.5-car and one 1-car kit for 600 square feet of a single color coat. Hopefully you won’t have gloss and color issues from the single color coat being too thin. You will then need two 90 oz. RockSolid Clear kits to cover 600 square feet. The number one rule of coatings is that you NEVER stretch coverage rates, especially for RockSolid. They are too generous to begin with.
Option two if you are worried about color uniformity and gloss would be to apply two color coats. This would require three 2.5-car color kits. You would use 1.5 kits for each color coat.
Remove the drain cover if you can, taking care to make sure you don’t coat over any holes for screw attachments. If that can’t be done, it will require careful trimming with a brush around the drain. Do not use tape. It it’s not removed within 30 minutes or so after each coat, it will get permanently embedded in the coating.
Bob Waddell says
Thanks Shea,
I’ve changed my plan a bit (per your advise). I’m going eliminate the Prime coat and the Rocksolid Clear coat. . And I will use three 2.5 car kits, instead. I’m hoping the thicker application will give a uniform surface. Then I will add the flakes. I have a price on the dark gray for $138. ($400 bucks)
Two Questions.
My measure SF is 455. Can I get away with just 2 kits?
I am concern about moisture, since I had a small leak running to the floor drain. I fixed it. But do I have a problem under my slab. Some efflorescence shows through. Is it possible to mitigate this problem. Otherwise….I’m wasting my time.
FYI. I am buying a new Zurn floor plan. Mine is all rusted. And it will give me a chance to do a “clean out”. I can perform this process during cleaning process.
Thanks so much for your advise. You a 10 times better than any YouTube video..
Bob
Shea says
Hi Bob. If your square footage is actually 455 and not 600, then two 2.5 car kits will take care of the color coat. The first coat will act as the primer coat (ugly coat) and the second coat will provide uniform color and gloss. If you like, you could then add a clear coat to protect the color flakes and color coat for about $80 more than three 2.5 color kits.
Water that leaked onto the concrete and ran to the drain is not a problem. That is what drains are for :). However, if you think there is moisture coming up from below the concrete, then you need to test for moisture during conditions when it has happened. If you do have moisture, then it may or may not be a deal breaker depending on how much moisture you have.
Ryan says
Hi Shea. I am trying to decide which method to use for prepping my 600sqft garage for the Rocksolid polycuramine coating. After water testing, I found that 90% of the garage floor is bare concrete that HAS been previously sealed, however, there is a 12-18 inch border around 3 sides of the garage that is bare concrete that has NOT been sealed. If the whole thing was sealed I would simply use the Concrete and Garage Recoat Primer per the Rocksolid instructions, but it sounds like the primer will be ineffective on the bare concrete perimeter. Any suggestions on the most efficient/cost effect way to proceed? Should I just rent the Diamabrush concrete prep tool and floor polisher from HD to remove the sealant and then follow the Rocksolid bare concrete instructions?
Once prepped, I plan on doing 2 color coats and 1 clear coat. Thanks for your feedback and your articles – they are a great resource!
Shea says
Hi Ryan. If you are going to apply two color coats of RockSolid then we would recommend grinding. The first coat will act as the primer coat (ugly coat) and the second will provide rich color and gloss. You will get maximum adhesion this way and not have to worry about hot tire pickup. One question that Rust-Oleum would not give us a solid answer to was whether or not the Garage Recoat Primer would offer the same performance as RockSolid in terms of hot tire pickup. Our guess is that it won’t.
Ryan says
Grinding it is. Thank you!
Last question, do you recommend the Diamabrush Prep tool or the Diamabrush Removal tool for wet grinding the sealant?
Shea says
Use the prep tool. If grinding wet, make sure that you are hosing out the slurry as you go. What ever you do, do not let any section that hasn’t been cleaned of slurry begin to dry out. If you do, it is very difficult to clean out of the concrete.
Ryan says
UPDATE: The prep tool worked great! Slurry was a mess, but we were able to get nearly all of it with the wet vac and then pressure washed any remainder at the end. Between the 3 of us we finished 600sqft in 5 hours.
Now 4 days later I’m finding evidence of moisture issues. There are 3 dark spots each roughly 12″ in diameter that leave a scratch when I do the screwdriver test. I also noticed some very light dusting in wider spread areas of the garage floor. Can I proceed with the coating, or do you think this is enough of an issue to apply a densifier like the L3000? And if I need to use the densifier, can I still apply two coats of the Rocksolid polycuramine on top of it? Thanks for your help!
Shea says
Hi Ryan. All the water required for grinding wet, plus the fact that pressure washers drive water deep into the concrete, just saturates the slab with moisture. It will require more than a few days for the slab to fully dry throughout. Unless you had signs of moisture in those areas before you started your project, the dark spots are more than likely just areas where moisture is making its way to the surface to evaporate.
Did you have a dusting issue before you started? If not, then it’s residual grinding dust that is showing itself as the slab dries. When that happens, you can usually remove the majority of it by going over the floor with a shop vac and then wiping the surface down with denatured alcohol (or equivalent) applied liberally to a microfiber mop pad. It’s rare to get all the dust up and nothing to worry about as long as it’s very light in areas. If you had dusting before you started your project, then you may need to clean as prescribed and then apply a densifier. We recommend using Rust-Oleum Moisture Stop. This is approved by Rust-Oleum to use before applying their coating. This will keep you in compliance with their warranties regarding the coating. Yes, you can still apply two coats.
Aileen Whittingham says
Thank you so much this is really helpful. I have experienced the different colour issues in areas and would like to put a second layer on it however getting access to the product is posing a problem due to lockdown etc. My question is, is it possible to apply another epoxy coating (e.g Dy-Mark ) over the top of the RockSolid within the 7 days without having to do any further prep? Or will the mixing of the two different brands not work?
Shea says
Hi Aileen. The 7 day recoat window is for RockSolid recoats only. Any other brand of coating would revert to the traditional 24 hour recoat window. Assuming you are passed the 24 hours, it would require deglossing the surface by roughing it up with 120 grit sandpaper if using a different brand.
Aileen says
Thanks. Just so I’m sure I’m understanding (it’s all new to me) rocksolid onto of rocksolid – you have 7 days to recoat without any prep. But another epoxy ontop of Rocksolid, if the 24 hrs have passed, the rocksolid needs sanding as prep?
Also is that dry sanding or wet sanding?
Thanks again
Shea says
That’s correct, Aileen. It’s dry sanding you need to do.
Aileen says
Fabulous thanks so much for the quick replies.
Is an handheld electric sander sufficient or a stand up floor sander or is that too aggressive?
Shea says
We have an article here that discusses that. It applies to new coatings past the recoat window as well.
Doug Kranenburg says
Will this work on the floor in my Toyhauler / Hunting Trailer. It has 2 layers of 3/4” plywood.
Shea says
Hello Doug. Yes, it will adhere well to plywood. Just be aware that Rust-Oleum will not honor the warranty though. It will require a minimum of two coats since the plywood will absorb more of the first coat. Also, it will not fill any of the plywood seams, knot holes, or other imperfections in the wood level if that is what you are after.
Douglas J Kranenburg says
Brilliant! Thank you so much for your quick reply!
Kim says
Please help!
We applied Rocksolid this morning after doing all of the appropriate recommended prep work. Minutes after applying several areas have spiderweb cracks. Not sure why? Should we wait overnight then sand the cracks and reapply or apply a second coat of Rocksolid? Thanks Kim!
Shea says
Hi Kim. If spiderweb cracks are showing it’s because they were there before the coating was applied. RockSolid is a thin coating that is not 100% solids. As a result, if all cracks are not repaired beforehand, the coating will soak into them and expose the crack as it cures. If the cracks are very obvious, then it will require that you fill them with the appropriate crack repair filler. Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch & Repair kit can usually be found at your local home improvement center. If not, you can find it here on Amazon. Let them cure for 8 hours, sand it flush with 40-60 grit sandpaper, and then recoat the floor with another color coat. If the cracks look more like dark lines with a slight depression, then sometimes a second color coat alone will cover up the darker lines. If in doubt, repair/fill them first. If you need to fill the cracks or order more RockSolid, RockSolid allows up to 7 days to recoat before you need to rough up the entire surface.
Kim says
Thanks so much! We applied a second coat and no more cracks it looks AMAZING!
Joshua Lehman says
Good morning. I am looking into RockSolid and have a brand new garage floor, 90-120 days old that was never sealed. I will be power-washing the floor to remove the drywall mud splatter and any other dirt from the builders. The garage floor is 576 sq ft. I will apply the etch provided in the kit. I was not going to grind unless you say otherwise.
I am looking at getting (1) 2.5 Car Kit and (1) 1 Car Kit. Do you recommend doubling my purchase for a 2nd coat, or purchasing the RockSolid Polycuramine Clear Top Coat? Or, 2 coats and the clear top coat?
Thanks,
Joshua
Shea says
Hi Joshua. Do not grind. Rust-Oleum even states in their data sheets not to grind if it can be helped. If you did, you would need two color coats since their coating is so thin. Use their supplied Eco etching solution. One 2.5-car kit and one 1-car kit will be a total of three separate batches that you will be mixing. Measure your floor out in three equal sections (approximately 192 sq. ft.) and limit each kit to those sections. If you do that, then one coat should look fine cosmetically. We would then recommend applying their clear coat to lock in the color flakes and to protect the color coat.
Dale Soderberg says
I plan on applying a second coat of Rocksolid since the first coat is rather blotchy. It has been over 7 days
since the first coat. I sanded the first coat with 60 grit paper. I was told to wipe it down with acetone
before applying the second coat. Is this correct and how should I apply the acetone. Thank you, Dale
Shea says
Hi Dale. Denatured alcohol is another product you can use for the chemical wipe. Apply a liberal amount of either to a microfiber mop pad and mop the floor with it. It may take a few applications to the pad. The floor will be ready within a few minutes afterward to apply the second coat of RockSolid.