When we first wrote about using Rust Bullet paint as a viable concrete garage floor coating, it definitely raised some eyebrows in the industry. After all, it is best known as a rust inhibitor and protective coating for metal parts and not as a paint coating for concrete. While our goal then was to introduce Rust Bullet as a feasible garage floor coating, we had no idea how successful it would become.
When our article was originally published, one prominent garage flooring vendor took great interest and contacted the manufacture directly about marketing Rust Bullet as a DIY garage floor coating. You can read our article here. The people at Rust Bullet took great interest as well and as a result of their collaboration, Rust Bullet has become a major hit and Mike’s Rust Bullet project featured here is no exception.
Mike admits he was first hesitant when researching about applying a garage floor coating. Why? Many of the reviews he was reading about the epoxy coatings that you could purchase from the major home improvement centers were a concern. Complaints of hot tire lift, peeling, and coatings not lasting as long as desired were the reason.
To quote Mike;
My main concern dealt with hot tire pickup which is the Achilles heel of the cheaper garage paint products. We park one car in the garage, and this car tends to be driven in a spirited manner, so having a floor that could withstand the hot tires after driving was paramount.
However, after doing some research on All Garage Floors, talking with members in other DIY forums, and chatting with friends and colleagues, he was confident Rust Bullet was the product he wanted to use. His chief reason was that Rust Bullet will not peel up from hot tires – period. The fact that it does not require the extensive prep of grinding or acid etching the concrete before application in most cases was a selling point as well.
Rust Bullet Floor Coating Application
Mike’s garage is a smaller 2-car unit of approximately 360 ft² with over 10 years of good use on the bare concrete. The surface didn’t have any cracks, but it did have some small chips and scratches in the concrete. He was not too concerned even though he knew Rust Bullet would not fill these imperfections.
His concrete prep consisted of using a 1500 PSI pressure washer to clean the surface and remove the oils from the various stains. No other degreasers or oil stain removers were used. As an application note, Rust Bullet does recommend treating oil stains with their Metal Blast spray (24 oz. spray bottle) to promote the best adhesion possible.
Because the concrete was cleaned with a pressure washer, he had to allow a few days for the concrete to thoroughly dry out. Though the surface may look dry after 24 hours, coatings can develop bubbles from outgassing if they are applied too soon. This is due to moisture vapor still escaping from within the concrete. Pressure washers drive water deep into the concrete during the cleaning process and thus require additional time for the concrete to dry completely.
When the concrete was ready, Mike first pre-treated some of the more heavily stained areas with a thin coating of Rust Bullet. He then applied his first coat using a full gallon of the coating. You can still see some of the stained areas and overall inconsistent look of the color after the first coat was applied. This is why Rust Bullet requires a minimum of two coats.
Once the first coat was applied and allowed to cure the required amount of time, the second coat was applied. You can see the obvious difference between the first and second coats in the following photos. As some of the photos illustrate, you can still see some of the chips and imperfections in the concrete. If such imperfections are a concern, you can always repair the areas beforehand to create a nice smooth and consistent looking finish.
Mike then chose to add a clear coat to create a glossier look and to help protect the finish of the color coat. He also decided to add color flakes to the finish as well. Color flakes are usually added to the final color coat and then locked in with the clear coat. However, Mike decided to add the color flakes last and broadcast them into the clear coat instead after it was applied.
This works just fine if that is what you prefer. Just keep in mind that you may lose some flakes from normal traffic use and the occasional cleaning of the surface.
We asked Mike how difficult it was to install Rust Bullet and if he had any words of wisdom for someone interested in installing a Rust Bullet garage floor of their own. He said the entire process was easier than he expected and that the most difficult part was actually trying to remove it from his hands. He highly recommends wearing gloves.
He also recommends using a pressure washer as he did to remove all the dirt and grime. The fact that he did not have to grind or acid etch the concrete was a big benefit for him as well. He admits that he probably should have done more to remove some of the stains, but so far Rust Bullet is holding up well in those areas.
We agree with Mike’s assessment and have to say that his floor really changed the look of his entire garage! It’s amazing how much a floor coating can improve the function in this area of your home. If you are interested in a Rust Bullet garage floor, we recommend that you read our article.
Randy says
Did you say in another article about Rust Bullet, that you can do a full flake treatment with it?
To give you my situation, it’s a new garage. 20×22. In central Florida. I will be keeping my boat/trailer on one side, car on the other. I will use a floor jack and stands on occasion. Oil changes here and there and wood working. Nothing major or on a regular basis.
I want protection and good looks but don’t want to spend a fortune getting there. My last garage for 14 years was a epoxy coating from Lowe’s that I did. One coat and no flakes. It held up very well
Thanks for your advice. I am looking at Rust Bullet and metallic rock solid. If I can go full flake treatment, how many coats would you recommend, both before and after the flakes.
Shea says
Hello Randy. Starting with your last comment, RockSolid metallic is not going to stand up to abuse like Rust Bullet will. Rust Bullet is an industrial type of coating whereas RockSolid is not. Yes, you can do a full flake floor with Rust Bullet. However, it may be economically feasible to use a high solids epoxy for a full flake floor instead. Generally, two coats of a clear coating is recommended depending on whether you use polyurethane or polyurea, or Rust Bullet clear.
We recommend that you contact Justin Krauss from Garage Flooring LLC. His company sells Rust Bullet along with high solids epoxy coatings and the new single part polyurea coatings. He can break down a system for you based on budget, needs, and application. Justin is great guy that will give you the straight scoop regarding the pros and cons of these type of coatings.
Nathan says
I have some cracks in my floor that need repairing. Will Rust Bullet adhere to epoxy crack filler?
Shea says
Hello Nathan. If you smoothed out the repair afterwards by sanding or grinding then Rust-Bullet will adhere very well. If you didn’t smooth out the repair, then you will need to rough it up with 120 grit sandpaper before applying Rust Bullet.
Corey Kruse says
To Whom It May Concern:
I have been researching doing my garage floor myself. I had an epoxy floor at my last house that was just too slippery in the winter. I had a company do it for me. I am looking into doing the Rust Bullet because I can do it myself. I would love to add flakes, but I am scared that I would have to add a clear coat and this would make it slippery again. I know they offer an anti-skid additive, but do you know if it is any good? I live in NY and we park our cars in the garage in the winter. The snow melt makes walking behind the cars a little sketchy. My question is if the additive will make the floor safe? Or what if I just add the additive to the regular Rust Bullet Coating and dont do the flakes? I want the safest option. Definitely want to do Rust Bullet because of the ease of application. Any information you can provide would be great. Thank you in advance!
Shea says
Hi Corey. Yes, the correct sized anti-slip granules can work very well for those applications. Just keep in mind that it will reduce the gloss in the coating. You want to add it to the final coat, whether it be the standard Rust Bullet color or the Rust Bullet clear. We suggest contacting Garage Flooring LLC to discuss which size anti-slip media would be best for your application. They have a lot of experience with Rust Bullet and can tell you what to expect.
110 says
Speaking with Rust Bullet, you still have to profile concrete if it’s smooth to get adhesion. Acid etching or 150 grit sand paper is what they recommended to “Profile” the surface.
Shea says
Yes, that is correct. If the concrete has been machine troweled smooth then you will need to to that.
logan says
DO NOT Acid etch the concrete for Rust Bullet. They do not recommend it and may cause the product to fail. Now I have to sand my concrete that was just acid etched.
Vic says
Hey guys thanks for all the info here on your site. Do you still recommend this product or is there other products you would recommend (budget friendly)? This would be for a residential garage in Las Vegas (hot tires).
Thanks
Shea says
Hi Vic. What is your goal for a coating? Are you worried mainly about hot pick tire pickup? Is a simple semi-metallic color that gets the job done what you want or do you want something more decorative with flakes and a clear coat?