We like to highlight nice garage floors from our reader’s whenever we get a chance and this one by Julian is no exception. After doing a little research about epoxy garage floors, he decided to purchase and apply a RockSolid Polycuramine garage floor coating in Silver Bullet metallic. After seeing the final results along with his garage décor, we have to say that Julian hit a home run with his floor coating choice.
Julian’s first attempt at a floor coating actually began four years ago. Unfortunately he received some poor advice from his local home improvement center regarding product choice and in his words, “it didn’t end well”.
He took the time to prep the garage floor properly by acid etching the concrete and followed the floor coating instructions to the letter. Just to be extra careful, he let the coating cure for a full week before parking his cars in the garage.
According to Julian, the first time he pulled into his garage with wet tires the epoxy coating pulled right up where his tires had sat. Feeling defeated, he left the floor as it was for the last four years until he decided he needed to tackle the job the right way. Fortunately for us, he took a lot of photos and gave us the details about his experience.
Choosing the RockSolid Metallic coating by Rust-Oleum
Being an avid DIY’er by this point, Julian started investigating garage floor epoxy and really liked the look of the RockSolid Metallic coatings. He felt it was the best looking garage flooring option by far when he evaluated the costs and what he wanted from an epoxy floor.
Though we have covered RockSolid’s new polycuramine coating, his one concern was that he couldn’t find as much information as he would like on their metallic coatings. What he did find was mostly from what we have published on All Garage Floors. Not stopping there, however, he did something that we encourage all of our DIY readers to do — He called Rust-Oleum customer service and started asking questions.
Besides some or the typical application questions, his biggest worry was about whether he should use an epoxy primer or not. After calling twice and talking to two different representatives, he was confident that is was not required. As we can attest, Polycuramine actually penetrates into the concrete very well and generally does not need a primer.
Installation
Because his garage had the older floor coating that never performed like he had hoped, Julian soon realized that it would need to be removed first before application of the new coating. So after reading our article about how to grind a garage floor, he set off to his local Home Depot to rent a floor buffer and the Diamabrush attachment.
He first thought the concrete prep tool would work best since it had the most blades, but soon found out that what he really needed was the removal tool that has fewer blades. Fewer blades prevent clogging and actually do a better job of removing old paint, mastic, and thin coatings while prepping the concrete at the same time. The process just takes longer than grinding bare concrete.
He decided that grinding the floor dry was his best option since he didn’t want to deal with the sludge that is created from grinding wet. Though he first opted to use the vacuum attachment, he felt it was more of a hindrance and easier for him to just don a respirator and deal with the concrete dust afterwards.
After grinding and cleanup, he then did a moisture test to verify that his garage floor wouldn’t have any moisture issues that could cause a coating failure. He did the simple plastic sheet test in a couple spots on his floor. Satisfied with the results, he was now ready to apply the RockSolid metallic coating.
Julian followed the instructions closely and was careful not to whip the coating when mixing in the metallic powder. Doing so can introduce air into the Polycuramine mix and create bubbles in the coating while it cures.
He then poured it out in ribbons and rolled it onto the concrete in the requisite M and W pattern to get full coverage, followed by the circular pattern that creates the cloudy metallic look. He separated his garage into 100 square foot sections and set a goal of 30 minutes for each section in order to get it down in the required time.
Though Rust-Oleum states you can drive your vehicle on the coating after 24 hours, Julian waited three days before doing so. While he waited though, he did some detail work that we think was very creative.
When applying the coating he was careful about not allowing much to flow into the contraction joints of the garage floor. This allowed for more coating to go on the floor surface. The next day, he taped off the joints and applied some Rust-Oleum Antique Pewter Primer and Paint-in-one. It matched up perfectly with the rest of the floor.
So what happened when he finally drove onto the metallic coating? Nothing! No hot tire pickup or problems with coating peeling up. He moved in all his garage stuff and you can see how beautiful the metallic coating looks from the pictures below.
Click on photos for a larger image
Final thoughts
Julian did offer a couple tips based on his experience. He recommends wearing gloves when applying the coating. Because Polycuramine is so thick, he said he got a few blisters from the pole while rolling it on. He also said it may have been easier to use a spout on his bucket when pouring it out on the floor since it was hard to get the even ribbons that RockSolid recommends.
He stated that the floor coating did not turn out perfect, but the few cracks and swirls just give the metallic coating character which he likes.
He was originally quoted $2500 to have a professionally installed commercial quality coating in a gray color with the multi-colored flakes and clear top coat. Installing a commercial quality coating DIY would have cost much less, but it still was going to be close to $1000 for materials. This was based on 525 square feet of garage floor.
With his local home improvement store running a special on the RockSolid Metallic garage floor coating, Julian kept his costs down to $375 for materials plus the grinding rental. He stated, “It’s definitely more wow than gray with flakes!”
Julian said he is aware that this particular type of DIY coating is not going to be as durable as the commercial quality coatings that are available. He is fine with that however since he isn’t running a professional shop and doesn’t plan for extensive work projects in the garage. He has been getting many compliments from passersby and he knows of two people who after looking at his garage floor went out immediately to purchase the same product to install on their own garage floor.
He admits that he felt a little bit like a Guinea pig installing the RockSolid Metallic garage floor coating since he couldn’t find as much real world information on it as he would have liked. However, he is now glad that he did it. In fact, he is giving it a 10 out of 10! He states that he loves his garage and has been spending much more time out there since and “… not having to look at the ugly floor that preceded it just makes me smile even more”.
Devin says
Did you put in any anti-slip additive? If not, how slippery is the floor? Also, how did you mix the metallic in so as to avoid bubbles? I assume a paddle mixer would be too fast.
Shea says
He didn’t use an anti-slip additive Devin. He mixed the metallic powder with a low speed drill attached to a paint mixer. RockSolid demonstrates mixing the same way on their install videos.
Bob says
Do you have to do the paint swirl like in the video ? I am thinking I would like it better just uniform. Would this work and would it still have a metallic look ?
Shea says
If you are trying to achieve an even and uniform look of the coating Bob, similar to metallic paint on a car for example, you will not get that with metallic epoxy. If you don’t do the swirling, you will have light and dark lap lines created by the rollers that will give the illusion of a real bad paint job. The circular swirling with the roller breaks up these lines and helps to create the cloudy looking, light and dark effects.
Bob says
Thanks – that makes sense.
Have you heard of any hot tire pickup issues with this product ?
Also, would you recommend RustBullet over this product ?
Shea says
Actually, we haven’t heard any complaints yet about hot tire pick up or peeling. It seems to penetrate and adhere very well to properly prepared concrete. Rust Bullet is an entirely different product. It really depends on what you want your garage floor to look like. The RockSolid metallic gives the garage a brilliant, boutique showroom style while Rust Bullet is a more traditional look. The big advantage with Rust Bullet is no grinding or acid etching of the concrete.
Bob says
Thx for the information.
I contacted Rustoleum and asked about applying a clear coat – they said it wasn’t necessary when using the RockSolid metallic product. But I saw in several places on the web that a clear coat is beneficial.
Any opinion on this ? I certainly don’t want to mess anything up by applying it if it’s not recommended.
Shea says
Hi Bob. The clear coat is not a required product. You would not be doing anything wrong if you did not install it. However, the clear coat acts as the sacrificial coat and will not allow the metallic coat to get scratched. Plus, it will increase the durability of the floor by creating a thicker build. Years later if the floor is starting to look a bit dull and worn, it’s much easier to sand the clear top coat and apply a new clear to make the floor look brand new again.
Brian says
Is there anything you need to do if your garage floors are brand new (new house)? Should you seal them first and then do the Rocksolid epoxy coating?
Thanks.
Shea says
Hello Brian. New or old, concrete needs to be profiled correctly (acid etch or grind) before applying a coating. DO NOT SEAL THE CONCRETE or the coating will fail. FYI, this type of coating is a topical sealer 🙂
Peter says
Thinking of going this route as well, but your last comment is giving me pause. This is a polycuramine product, right, so it should have decent durability. As good or better than the rust-oleum epoxy shield two part kits I presume, right?
Not sure if my concrete is sealed, but I do notice that water does not immediately soak in, but beads up a bit. If I presume it is sealed, I assume I would need to treat it with something that would remove the sealant, like a paint thinner? Sounds hazardous. What is recommended? I assume I would still need to acid etch after removing the sealant?
Shea says
Hello Peter. It’s possible that your concrete is sealed or was treated with a “cure-and-seal” product when it was first poured. We have an article about testing for sealers here. If you do suspect it’s sealed then the only way to prep the concrete properly is by grinding. Penetrating sealers cannot be removed via chemical means like some coatings can. Once you grind the surface you don’t need to acid etch.
Peter says
Thanks for the advice. I tested the concrete per your recommendations on the “testing for sealers” page and found that it definitely fizzled with the acid solution. The water test questionable, leaning towards the unsealed results.
Shea says
If it fizzled Peter you don’t have a sealer.
Peter says
I have a question about the application of the Rust-Oleum Antique Pewter Primer and Paint-in-one. In the article, you mentioned that he taped up the joints and “applied some” of the aforementioned product. Since this was done the next day, I assume this was done on top of the dry rocksolid metallic product. What was the purpose for this? To add color effects? How was this applied? Sprayed on? Coverage? Just not clear what impact this had on the texture or finish of the floor. Did this give the floor the glossy look in the photos? If it was not sprayed on in an even coating, would their be differences in the thickness of the flooring where this landed? Also curious how much of the Rust-Oleum Antique Pewter Primer and Paint-in-one was used. I have a similarly sized garage, 3 car, about 600 sq ft.
One part of the original question was “how slippery is the floor”? I am concerned that if I go this route the floor maybe dangerously slippery after a rain. Thoughts?
Shea says
We may need to make that part more clear Peter. He was trying to conserve as much of the Metallic coating that he could by not applying it into the joints. Once he could walk on the floor, he taped off the joints and applied the Antique Pewter color to them. It’s sprayed on. What it did was give him a nice accent color in the joints that matches up well with the coating. Here is a video of how the antique paint is applied. Most people just apply the coating into the joints. What was done here was something unique.
The floor can be slippery if it gets wet, particularly when new. However, it does get a little less slippery after a few months as the coating develops little microscopic scratches in it that aid in traction. Most coatings do this. You can apply an anti-slip additive to the coating if it’s a strong concern, but one of the effects is that it will make the floor look less glossy.
Michael says
I would like to know how this application holds up to floor jacks, jack stands and ramps. Will they scratch it up, and will they slip on the surface making it unsafe to work on a vehicle? Thanks
Shea says
Hello Michael. This type of garage flooring is designed to stand up to the use of floor jacks, stands, and etc. How much it scratches though depends on how well you treat it. If you tend to drag stuff across your floor then you are going to see many more scratch marks. Generally the scratch marks are just that – marks. It don’t go through the coating unless it’s a sharp metal object. Most car ramps may find this type of surface to be slippery unless you use Race Ramps. An old rubber mat usually works well to secure car ramps.
Frans DeBoer says
Hello. I recently resurfaced my garage floor with a Quikcrete resurfacer kit(s), patching cracks and pock marks where salt and wear had broken down the concrete. Because it looked to be drying too fast and afraid that it would start cracking, I added a cure and seal. Trying to experiment after reading another review, I added some charcoal concrete color to the cure and seal. My problem now is that the color is so uneven and shows roller marks, that I want to now paint over it.
What would you suggest? I like that the concrete is now repaired and has a semi gloss sheen to it due to the cure and seal, but the look is horrible and needs to be painted/covered.
Will etching do the trick to prepare for coating and if I grind it, will that break up the new patched concrete resurfacer?
Thank you!
Shea says
Hello Frans. Acid does not work on sealed concrete and it will not prep polymer-modified repair materials as well. What you will need to do is grind the concrete in order to remove the sealer you applied. This will also create the proper profile for a coating at the same time. The resurfacer and repairs should not break up if they were applied correctly and the grinding will also create a much smoother transition that should hide most evidence of the repairs.
Tony says
Very nice for a DIY job! Any updates about the quality & durability of the product?
Shea says
We haven’t heard Tony. Generally no news is good news since people who are unhappy tend to want to tell someone about it. We do know from some feedback that we are getting regarding RockSolid metallic is that is does show scratches much more than a typical garage floor coating.
David says
I was very upset with how transparent the silver bullet metallic was, any filled cracks showed right through. was there something i could have done, like primed grey first before application? can you add a colored powder to this product without making it thicker than it already is? by the end of a batch this product is already hard to work with. after using 4 kits to do my 380 sqft garage, i went back to the store and bought 2 more kits to do a second coat.
gotta say, still not real happy considering the days of prep, grinding, cleaning, drying, filling, sanding. that went into this.
Shea says
When you say transparent David, do you mean that you can see where the crack repairs where made? If so, that is usually a result of not grinding the repairs flush with the rest of the concrete. Doing a primer first or applying more coats will not fix that issue. 4 kits sounds about right for 380 square feet since 1 kit only does 100-125 square feet. If you still want to apply a second coat you will need 4 kits, not 2. You cannot stretch the coverage rate of epoxy, especially metallics. You will end up with an inconsistent looking finish that is less glossy.
Jason says
Curious why a second coat would still require an additional four kits and not just two. Wouldn’t the coverage of the second coat improve as there is less material seeping into the bare concrete? Late reply, but wondering if the roller technique of creating an “M” and “W” was not used?
Shea says
Hello Jason. I’m assuming you are referring to the issues that David was having. There are a couple of reasons why you would most likely use 4 kits. Yes, the coverage rate improves, but it does not improve beyond the manufacturer’s stated coverage rates of 100-125 square feet per kit. RockSolid already has issues with their stated coverage rates being too optimistic. On top of that, metallic epoxy needs to go down thick to get the effects that it creates. While an argument can be made for using 3 kits on a 380 square foot floor, we recommend having a 4th kit handy and ready to go just in case. The “M” and “W” application process wouldn’t make much of a difference on a surface that was not repaired properly. If repairs are not done properly and ground flush with the rest of the concrete, they will telegraph through the coating in most cases.
johnny Shotwell says
i Just did the rust oleum Rock solid application. Did about a 3 ft width and went the length of the garage. It was about 7 strips of these to complete the garage! Every 3 ft wide strip is a slightly different shade of gray!! my garage is like a movie 7 shades of gray!! I did not do the ribbons but put it in a tray and used the roller from there. I am thinking about putting another light coat to see if I can get a same color floor!
Shea says
Sorry for the late reply Johnny. It’s unusual for that to happen if it’s all from the same bag. How does it look now that it’s been down for over 24 hours?
Thad says
I need it to be non-slip, will shark grip work with this coating? Is it considered a thin or thick coating?
Shea says
It’s a thin coating so Shark Grip will work Thad. Just be aware that an anti-slip additive will take some of the gloss out of the coating.
Rod McKay says
I am thinking of repainting my garage floor with the rock solid metallic product. I have the floor previously painted with a high quality 100% solids product from Epoxy_coat. It is in good shape but I like the metallic look so could I paint over the top of whats there now? Or could I get by by just sanding whats already there? It would be a very big job to grind off whats already there. It is rock hard and doesn’t come off easy. It is also in very good shape now I just want to change the look to the metallic side. Thanks
Shea says
Hi Rod. You will need to rough up the surface of the epoxy with 120 grit sandpaper before applying the RockSolid Metallic. If you don’t, the RockSolid will peel. After you rough it up, vacuum the surface and then wipe it down with denatured alcohol on a lint free towel. This will clean up remaining dust and dirt. You can apply the new coating immediately there after.
Dwayne says
If u already have epoxy paint on your floor can you paint over it with metallic epoxy paint or does have to be sanded off? Thanks
Shea says
Hello Dwayne. If it’s an actual epoxy and not paint or 1-part epoxy paint, then yes, you can coat over it. It requires that you rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper and then wipe it down with denatured alcohol on a microfiber pad. Just make sure the current coating is good quality and adhered well. A floors coating is only as good as what it is attached to. If the current coating might peel, then the entire coating will peel.
Erika Kurtz says
I am going to be doing the silver bullet on my garage floor which was in pretty rough shape with cracks since it is 70 year old concrete. I have filled them all with Quickrete crack filler so I now have old tan concrete with with grey filled cracks. I see above you have said you need to grind down the repairs flush. So that won’t open the cracks back up? Before I did the Metallic silver bullet coating I was going to do an under-layer of Rocksolid gray coating to try to blend the two-tone look of the concrete and the filled cracks and to help level out any pitting before the decorative finish. Will the Metallic silver bullet coating work ok on top of the other coating if I do it the following day? I have a full 3 car garage and I was just going to pour a new slab and finish it for 5k but then I thought for fun I would see if I could transform what is there when my concrete guy laughed at me. About 25 hours of prep time later and still another 10 ahead of me I might be regretting that choice but too far down the rabbit hole now. Not sure I am going to be saving much in the long run but maybe I will learn something along the way!? Thanks! Erika
Shea says
Hi Erika. The Quikrete Crack Filler is the wrong product to use. You should be using crack repair products that consist of 100% solids epoxy or polyurea. Repair products like these are stronger than the concrete and repair the crack. Once ground down flush, it makes for a nice flush surface to coat over. The Quikrete product just seals the cracks with a flexible acrylic caulk. It’s not strong and it does not sand well. Plus, it shrinks as it ages. Crack fillers will telegraph right through the coating and you can make out the outlines where the cracks are. Yes, the Metallic Silver Bullet can be applied over the gray RockSolid. However, RockSolid is a thin coating compared to true metallic coatings. For a garage floor that needs many repairs, if you don’t use the correct repair products and the thicker commercial quality coatings, it’s not going to create brand new, smooth looking finish with no visible blemishes. It will definitely look better than it was before, but it won’t have the seamless, non blemished look.
Erika Kurtz says
Hey really appreciate that info. I read the other article and am going to order the product you linked. Do you think it is silly to put down the gray Rocksolid first? Is it wrong to think it would even out the floor color and make it look more gray before doing the more expensive metallic silver bullet? I have a full 3 car garage and I currently have 9 of the Metallic Silver Bullet kits to do the floor. Thanks again! Erika
Shea says
Hi Erika. No, it’s not silly at all if you want to apply a solid gray color first. It will act as the primer coat and ensure that you get good color uniformity throughout the metallic coat.
Mary says
Hello. We are looking to use Rustoleum Gun Metal epoxy on my hubby’s new game room floor. Its a new construction home built last year. We just had the drywall finished and I’m looking to start this right after painting walls this week.Do we need to grind the floor? what about the moisture test? how do you know if there is too much moisture? No clearcoat since its a basement floor? thanks, Mary
Shea says
Hello Mary. Basements can be tricky when it comes to coatings. We would suggest contacting the builder and ask if a vapor barrier was installed for the basement. If so, moisture should not be an issues. If a vapor barrier was not installed or you do not know, then you will need to conduct a moisture test. We have an article about moisture testing here. Sometimes moisture will not be present during dry periods and then will be during rainy periods. That’s one of the things that makes basements tricky.
Rust-Oleum requires that you etch the concrete prior to application of the coating. They typically supply the etching solution in their kits. Metallic coatings are extremely glossy and as a result, they will highlight scratches more. A clear coat will help protect the color coat and tone down how visible the scratches may be. It’s not a requirement, so the decision is up to you.
Jim says
I would like to use the Rocksoldid Silver Bullet Metallic color for a basement family room concrete floor. But, my wife is afraid it will make the room too dark with a dark gray painted exposed ceiling. Is there any way to make the Silver Bullet color lighter.
Shea says
Hello Jim. Unfortunately, you cannot make any of the Rust-Oleum RockSolid kits lighter in color. What you can do, however, is purchase a commercial quality product that offers a much better color selection. Leggari marble and metallic epoxy is one such vendor of many.