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	Comments on: The Ultimate Guide to DIY Garage Floor Coating Options	</title>
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	<link>https://allgaragefloors.com</link>
	<description>Garage flooring products, options, and reviews</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 15 Nov 2025 16:06:49 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>
		By: Shea Walker		</title>
		<link>https://allgaragefloors.com/epoxy-flooring/comment-page-9/#comment-140620</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Shea Walker]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Nov 2025 16:06:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://allgaragefloors.com/?page_id=78#comment-140620</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In reply to &lt;a href=&quot;https://allgaragefloors.com/epoxy-flooring/comment-page-9/#comment-140618&quot;&gt;Robert Rickert&lt;/a&gt;.

Hi Robert. We have &lt;a href=&quot;https://allgaragefloors.com/can-i-fill-my-contraction-joints/&quot; title=&quot;Tips for Filling Contraction and Expansion Joints&quot; rel=&quot;ugc&quot;&gt;an article here&lt;/a&gt; that explains how to fill &lt;strong&gt;contraction&lt;/strong&gt; joints in the middle of the floor. We also list the various materials you can use and where to purchase them. If you want to fill the &lt;strong&gt;expansion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; joints at the perimeter of the slab, you can do that by applying a self-leveling polyurethane joint sealer, such as SikaFlex SL, after the floor coating is completed.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In reply to <a href="https://allgaragefloors.com/epoxy-flooring/comment-page-9/#comment-140618">Robert Rickert</a>.</p>
<p>Hi Robert. We have <a href="https://allgaragefloors.com/can-i-fill-my-contraction-joints/" title="Tips for Filling Contraction and Expansion Joints" rel="ugc">an article here</a> that explains how to fill <strong>contraction</strong> joints in the middle of the floor. We also list the various materials you can use and where to purchase them. If you want to fill the <strong>expansion</strong><strong></strong> joints at the perimeter of the slab, you can do that by applying a self-leveling polyurethane joint sealer, such as SikaFlex SL, after the floor coating is completed.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: Robert Rickert		</title>
		<link>https://allgaragefloors.com/epoxy-flooring/comment-page-9/#comment-140618</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert Rickert]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Nov 2025 12:22:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://allgaragefloors.com/?page_id=78#comment-140618</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[what is the best way/ product to fill expansion joints before I epoxy the floor? I do realize the concrete might Crack there at some point. but a Crack is better looking than the half inch gap thats there now.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>what is the best way/ product to fill expansion joints before I epoxy the floor? I do realize the concrete might Crack there at some point. but a Crack is better looking than the half inch gap thats there now.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: Shea Walker		</title>
		<link>https://allgaragefloors.com/epoxy-flooring/comment-page-9/#comment-139633</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Shea Walker]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2025 20:16:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://allgaragefloors.com/?page_id=78#comment-139633</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In reply to &lt;a href=&quot;https://allgaragefloors.com/epoxy-flooring/comment-page-9/#comment-139631&quot;&gt;Ronda Haun&lt;/a&gt;.

Hi Ronda. The preferred method for applying new coatings to existing coatings is to degrease the surface and then rough it up via sanding. You can &lt;a href=&quot;https://allgaragefloors.com/prep-older-epoxy-for-new-coat/&quot; title=&quot;How To Prep and Recoat an Older Epoxy Floor for a New Coat&quot; rel=&quot;ugc&quot;&gt;learn the process here&lt;/a&gt;. If you are applying a quality coating over an EpoxyShield coating, we highly recommend removing the EpoxyShield first via grinding. The entire coating system is only as good as what it is adhered to. EpoxyShield is a low-budget, low-quality coating that is known for adhesion issues with hot tires. If you are applying a coating within the Rust-Oleum family, then you can apply the Rust-Oleum Recoat Primer providing the current coating is still adhered well and not too worn out. You can learn more about &lt;a href=&quot;https://allgaragefloors.com/rustoleum-garage-floor-primer/&quot; title=&quot;Rust-Oleum Concrete and Garage Recoat Primer Makes Recoats Easy&quot; rel=&quot;ugc&quot;&gt;Recoat Primer here&lt;/a&gt;. Do not use Rust-Oleum recoat primer if the new coating is not in the Rust-Oleum family.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In reply to <a href="https://allgaragefloors.com/epoxy-flooring/comment-page-9/#comment-139631">Ronda Haun</a>.</p>
<p>Hi Ronda. The preferred method for applying new coatings to existing coatings is to degrease the surface and then rough it up via sanding. You can <a href="https://allgaragefloors.com/prep-older-epoxy-for-new-coat/" title="How To Prep and Recoat an Older Epoxy Floor for a New Coat" rel="ugc">learn the process here</a>. If you are applying a quality coating over an EpoxyShield coating, we highly recommend removing the EpoxyShield first via grinding. The entire coating system is only as good as what it is adhered to. EpoxyShield is a low-budget, low-quality coating that is known for adhesion issues with hot tires. If you are applying a coating within the Rust-Oleum family, then you can apply the Rust-Oleum Recoat Primer providing the current coating is still adhered well and not too worn out. You can learn more about <a href="https://allgaragefloors.com/rustoleum-garage-floor-primer/" title="Rust-Oleum Concrete and Garage Recoat Primer Makes Recoats Easy" rel="ugc">Recoat Primer here</a>. Do not use Rust-Oleum recoat primer if the new coating is not in the Rust-Oleum family.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: Ronda Haun		</title>
		<link>https://allgaragefloors.com/epoxy-flooring/comment-page-9/#comment-139631</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Ronda Haun]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2025 20:04:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://allgaragefloors.com/?page_id=78#comment-139631</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[What are your prep recommendations on a previously coated with EpoxyShield floor?  Is there a primer that gives good adhesion on the market?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What are your prep recommendations on a previously coated with EpoxyShield floor?  Is there a primer that gives good adhesion on the market?</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: Shea Walker		</title>
		<link>https://allgaragefloors.com/epoxy-flooring/comment-page-9/#comment-139001</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Shea Walker]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Jul 2024 01:00:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://allgaragefloors.com/?page_id=78#comment-139001</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In reply to &lt;a href=&quot;https://allgaragefloors.com/epoxy-flooring/comment-page-9/#comment-138998&quot;&gt;David&lt;/a&gt;.

Hi David. Pressure washing is not a recommended or approved concrete preparation procedure for thermosetting floor coatings (epoxy, polyurea, etc.). Etching is typically the minimum acceptable procedure for most coatings. Grinding is the industry standard for commercial quality coatings. Because you have broom finished concrete, we recommend grinding. If you etch, the thin raised edges of a broom finish provides a weak layer for coatings to adhere to. Grinding will knock down all those raised edges and provide a more suitable profile and surface for a quality coating. After grinding, vacuum the surface well with a shop vac. A little bit of dust on the surface is acceptable. However, if feel there is too much after a good vac, then apply denatured alcohol or equivalent liberally to a microfiber mop and wipe the surface down to remove it. 

The last thing you want to do is introduce water to the concrete after grinding if you can help it. If you do, you will need to wait a few days for it to completely dry out. Pressure washing will drive water deep into the freshly open pores and you will have to wait even longer. If you don&#039;t wait, the water within the concrete that is still evaporating will play havoc with the epoxy as it cures.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In reply to <a href="https://allgaragefloors.com/epoxy-flooring/comment-page-9/#comment-138998">David</a>.</p>
<p>Hi David. Pressure washing is not a recommended or approved concrete preparation procedure for thermosetting floor coatings (epoxy, polyurea, etc.). Etching is typically the minimum acceptable procedure for most coatings. Grinding is the industry standard for commercial quality coatings. Because you have broom finished concrete, we recommend grinding. If you etch, the thin raised edges of a broom finish provides a weak layer for coatings to adhere to. Grinding will knock down all those raised edges and provide a more suitable profile and surface for a quality coating. After grinding, vacuum the surface well with a shop vac. A little bit of dust on the surface is acceptable. However, if feel there is too much after a good vac, then apply denatured alcohol or equivalent liberally to a microfiber mop and wipe the surface down to remove it. </p>
<p>The last thing you want to do is introduce water to the concrete after grinding if you can help it. If you do, you will need to wait a few days for it to completely dry out. Pressure washing will drive water deep into the freshly open pores and you will have to wait even longer. If you don&#8217;t wait, the water within the concrete that is still evaporating will play havoc with the epoxy as it cures.</p>
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			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: David		</title>
		<link>https://allgaragefloors.com/epoxy-flooring/comment-page-9/#comment-138998</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[David]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 27 Jul 2024 20:20:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://allgaragefloors.com/?page_id=78#comment-138998</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I&#039;m going to be buying an epoxy kid from a vendor that specializes in epoxy to cover 900sf. I&#039;m trying to decide between grinding and pressure washing. I can rent a grinder and have access to a 3400 psi pressure washer with a turbo tip. The slab was laid about three years ago with a broom finish. There have been a few scissor lifts and ATVs on it but no cars been parked there for any extended time. Nothing&#039;s ever been applied to the concrete. The grinder I&#039;m able to rent is a single disk 120V electric which has low head pressure. I&#039;m assuming I have to let the concrete dry for significant period time if I pressure wash it. Even if I grind it, I might want to pressure wash it to get rid of the dust. Anyone have an opinion whether I should grind and pressure wash, just grind, or just pressure wash.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m going to be buying an epoxy kid from a vendor that specializes in epoxy to cover 900sf. I&#8217;m trying to decide between grinding and pressure washing. I can rent a grinder and have access to a 3400 psi pressure washer with a turbo tip. The slab was laid about three years ago with a broom finish. There have been a few scissor lifts and ATVs on it but no cars been parked there for any extended time. Nothing&#8217;s ever been applied to the concrete. The grinder I&#8217;m able to rent is a single disk 120V electric which has low head pressure. I&#8217;m assuming I have to let the concrete dry for significant period time if I pressure wash it. Even if I grind it, I might want to pressure wash it to get rid of the dust. Anyone have an opinion whether I should grind and pressure wash, just grind, or just pressure wash.</p>
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