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Two questions that we are often asked is how to recoat or apply a new coat of epoxy to an older epoxy floor that has already cured and can you apply a clear coat to an older epoxy garage floor coating? If you’ve done a little bit of research on epoxy application, then you know how important floor preparation is. So let’s discuss how to determine if your floor qualifies for a recoat and then how to prep the floor before you do.
When can you apply epoxy over an older coating?
There are many examples of when you can apply a new coat of epoxy over an older cured coating. The most common of these are for people who had previously applied a color coat and now realize that they want the glossy looks and advantages of adding a clear coat.
Sometimes it’s as simple as someone who planned a multiple coat flooring system and waited too long between coats, allowing the epoxy to cure, before applying the next coat in order to get a chemical bond.
Another reason is to renew the clear top coat. After many years of service in a busy garage, the clear top coat of an epoxy floor can start to show its age. With the proper floor preparation, you can add another coat of clear and make the floor look brand new again.
And then finally, you may have an older existing coating that is showing wear from years of heavy traffic and getting thin. As long as the floor is not experiencing any delamination issues, many times you can recoat right over a worn epoxy floor to create a brand new looking finish.
As long as the existing garage floor coating is a 2-part resinous product such as epoxy, polyurea, polyaspartic, or polyurethane, then you should be able to apply an additional coat of a compatible product without issue. However, to be safe you should always consult with the manufacturer of the new coating first.
When not to apply epoxy over an older coat
If the existing epoxy floor coating is peeling up or showing other signs of delamination, then you do not want to epoxy over it. There are bigger issues at play here that are causing the delamination. Applying a new coat of epoxy over such a coating will only lead to more problems. A complete removal of the old coating by grinding would be required.
If the coating is fairly worn with more concrete showing through than there is epoxy, then you will want to start fresh by grinding the floor.
Do not attempt to apply epoxy over existing concrete sealers. These need to be removed first as epoxy will not adhere to them. Also, floor paint is not a good base for epoxy and needs to be removed as well.
How to prep epoxy for another coat
The key to applying a new coat is to mechanically rough up the surface of the older coat to create enough bite for the epoxy to adhere to it. There are a couple of ways to achieve this.
The first is to use 120 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander or pole sander like this one at Amazon
. What you are trying to do is rough up the surface, not remove it. The surface should look deglossed after sanding.
Once done, sweep up the heavy stuff and then vacuum the entire floor with a shop vac. Next, use denatured alcohol on a small towel and wipe down the entire surface. The denatured alcohol will remove all the fine dust particles, evaporate quickly, and make sure that the surface is clean.
The other option is to use a floor maintainer (buffer) with a 100 grit sanding screen. You can usually rent these fairly inexpensively from your local home improvement center. They should have the sanding screens to purchase as well.
This method will go faster than the pole sander and cover a lot of floor quickly if you have quite a bit of square feet to prep. Just remember to occasionally check the sanding screen for wear and to make sure it hasn’t clogged up. After you are done, vacuum the floor and use denatured alcohol as described with the sanding method.
If you have an older clear coat that you want to renew, then you will want to use 80 – 100 grit sandpaper or a 60 – 80 grit sanding screen first to actually remove a small layer of the coating. This will help to eliminate any deeper scratches and/or embedded dirt that has marred the finish.
Do the same if you have a worn coating that is adhered very well but has some spots where the coating has worn through to the concrete. The more aggressive grit will insure that the bare concrete will be prepped properly as well.
Floor prep such as this goes fairly quickly. Once you wipe down the floor with the denatured alcohol, your floor is ready for a new coat of epoxy or floor coating of your choice.
Hi there, thank you for all this so far, I’ve spent a lot of time in the comments.
I used a Rust O leum product from Lowes that has been great. I didn’t think about the sun, and have huge yellowing issues where the sun hits all day. This due to the glossy top coat.
I know I need to rough up the area with 120 grit and reapply. This is mainly on the 4 inches outside the garage door that gets the sun. But when I leave the garage door open…the yellowing will come inside sooner or later. I see it beginning and want to stay ahead of it.
Question: If I apply another clear coat now before it all yellows, like Rexthane or something, will it prevent the current clear coat underneath from continuing to yellow? Or, do I need to rough up/remove the entire existing clear coat up and then apply a polyurethane of some kind? Other suggestions for UV product?
thank you in advance.
Mike
Hi Mike. A U.V. stable clear will not fix your cosmetic issues. Read our article here about epoxy yellowing and it should answer all of your questions. If you have any additional questions, just let us know.
Thank you. It looks like I’m going to have to redo some of the floor anyway, the 4 inches outside the garage door are so yellow now it’s like a different color. It looks awful.
So if I avoid an epoxy, can I just sand the yellow portions down with the 120 and then use a non-epoxy floor paint with no clear coat and no flakes? It would look 2 tone but not have the yellowing – correct?
Yes, you can do just that. Latex acrylic concrete paint is U.V. stable. Plus, you are only driving across the apron and not parking on it. If it does begin to wear out or flake, you can simply repaint. If you can procure a color sample from your floor somewhere, many of the home improvement centers can color match it for you.
Hello
I applied the rustoleum kit maybe 4 or 5 years ago. It still looks OK. However I would like to use a better color instead of this rust yellow color I used. I did not put a protective coat over it. Should I just be able to clean it and add the new coat over it? Then seal it this time? Also I have a 10×5 front porch that is partially covered and partially exposed to sunlight. I used the remaining part of the kit to make it look nice. What should I use to protect it from the sun?
Hello Derius. It requires more than just cleaning it. You need to prep it as described in the article. Once you apply a new color coat, you can most certainly apply a clear coat from by the same manufacturer. Just an FYI, a clear coat does not “seal” the color coat. The color IS a sealer on it’s own. The clear helps to protect the color coat and adds another layer of protection. It’s also considered the sacrificial coat. Regarding the porch; epoxy is an indoor coating and should not be applied to concrete that gets sun exposure. It’s not U.V. stable and will severely amber (yellow tint) and eventually oxidize. There is not a clear coat that you can put over it that will protect it from the U.V. rays.
I’m prepping a old garage floor for Rocksolid Polycuramine. I used a concrete grinder and then a pressure washer. there are a lot of low spots and grooves from the concrete being so old. Should I acid etch it also?
Also, I’m going to be using the garage for a staging area for home remodeling for a few months. I planned to do one coat of Rocksolid now to seal it and then another coat when the remodeling is complete. Is this a waste of time?
Thanks
Hello Marc. RockSolid does not look good when only one coat is used on a surface that has been grinded. It’s a thin coating to begin with and the surface will absorb too much of it to provide a thick enough layer. It will have a patchy look of uneven color and loss of gloss. It essentially acts as a primer coat – AKA “the ugly coat”. You will need a second coat to achieve the proper color and gloss appearance. In addition, RockSolid will not fill in imperfections such as small grooves. They will stand out as before. Only a 100% solids epoxy will do that when applied at the correct coverage rate with a gauge rake.
I am wondering why an epoxy floor zeems to be erupting in multiple areas leaving rough ugly dirty looking patches in several areas it has gotten worse in a few months time it is a rustoleum epoxy floor coating kit used with the grey base color and black and white and blue colored chips
Hi Shanda. How long ago was the coating applied?
I have a garage floor that has full casting in good shape, stains from battery acid has discolored, please give me details on a repair as I am a handy person, thank you for helping me,
Hello Berry. When you say “full casting”, do you mean it has color flakes to full refusal?
Yes, I had a golf cart that leaked battery acid through the Matt with other small stains, I would like to refinish the entire garage, I would have to rent a floor buffer/sander if needed and/or I have a pressure washer, it has full flakes no damage to the flakes it appears to be the finish from acid, thank you for helping me!!!!!
OK, then. First, clean the entire surface using a degreaser to make sure all possible contaminants have been removed. For the area with the acid, sand the finish with 120 grit sandpaper first to see if it gets through the stained area of the clear coating. If not, use a more aggressive grit such as 80. Once you are sure the stain has been removed, then do the rest of the surface with 120 grit sandpaper. A floor buffer with 100 grit sanding screen is easier and faster if you want to rent one. You will use a few sanding screens in the process. Once the floor is deglossed and has a hazy finish, sweep and vacuum it good to get the majority of the dust up. After that, wipe the surface down with denatured alcohol applied liberally to a microfiber mop pad. This will remove the remaining dust and ensure the surface is clean for the new clear coat.
Hi. I used Rustoleum epoxy remover to rid a large concrete floor of old carpet glue and epoxy. I made a mess. We are having trouble getting it all up. It is inside in a sunroom. We want to then cover with a garage floor epoxy. My question is, once the epoxy remover dries (after many tries of rinsing) will a new epoxy coat work? This has been a nightmare.
Hi Diane. Unfortunately, whenever a chemical stripper is introduced to concrete you can end up with the mess you are experiencing now. This is why grinding is the preferred method when dealing with old glue and mastic. Once it has all dried and the glue and mastic removed, you will need to etch the surface of the concrete in order to apply a coating. This article explains why. Make sure all the glue and mastic residue is gone or the etch will not work. If residue still remains, then you will need to grind to remove it or continue with the chemical stripping process.
Keep in mind that epoxy is not U.V. stable and can amber (yellow tint) if exposed to direct sun or strong indirect U.V. light. We would recommend using a U.V. stable coating such as polyurea or a single-part polyurethane such as DuraGrade Concrete.
Thanks so much.
hi, I recently applied epoxyshield on my garage floor plus the clear coat. I’m not very pleased with the result mainly due to the uneven finish, some parts of the garage are shiny and some parts are dull. It;s been a few weeks since i applied the top clear coat. I was wondering if i can apply a 2nd coat of epoxy and if that would even out? Can i rough up the surface like you suggested (even tho i top coated it) and apply the 2nd coat of epoxy?
Thanks in advance!
Hello Alex. What do you mean by uneven finish? Was the color uneven at all or less glossy in some areas or was it OK before applying the clear coat?
Thanks for the article. I am in much need of advice. I put down coat 1 (grey) with paint chips and it is cured but unfortunately the temperature unexpectantly dropped and now I can’t put the second 2 coats (clear) down until the spring. What should I do? It’s bonded well so I don’t want to remove it. Should I just lightly sand with 100 grit sand paper and then wipe down with water before placing the next coats? Will they bond? Should I clean it with something other than water (because of the exposed paint chips), I don’t really want to dissolve any of the existing epoxy.
Thanks !!!
Hi Dave. Yes, you have the right idea. When the time comes that you can apply the clear coat in the spring, degrease the floor first. Then rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper, sweep and vac, then do a chemical wipe of denatured alcohol on microfiber mop pad. The surface will be very clear, roughed up, and look hazy. Once you apply the clear, the color and gloss will pop right back and the floor will look new again.
I have a ten year old garage floor with epoxy shield kit base colored chips. Overall the floor is in pretty good condition with some small worn areas where the paint in very thin. There is no uplifting of the base coat. I am looking to refinish the floor and possible change to base coat color. Will this require the floor to be completely sanded to concrete? I was thinking its going to require a floor buffer style sander.
Hello Tap. If you are going to use the same type of epoxy, then no, you don’t need to remove it down to bare concrete if it is adhered adequately. However, if you are going to be using a quality high solids coating or commercial quality coating, then we recommend removing it down to the bare concrete.
My question is very similar. I applied rock solid epoxy a few years ago and it still looks good but thin. I wanted now to put down Sherwin-Williams tile clad over the rock solid. Do those two epoxies mix well, adhere to each other or do I need to grind all the way down to the concrete?
Hello Carps. As long as the RockSolid is adhered well and you prep the surface like we outline in the article, the Sherwin Williams coating will achieve a good mechanical grip as it should without issue.
We recently applied epoxy to our office floor, however it was done by 2 different people. The 2nd area was done improperly and needs to be re-coated. Is it possible to recoat the epoxy? What are the benefits of the clear coat other than the shine? Thank you in advance for your help/advice.
Hi Sokosha. I can’t tell you if it’s possible to recoat without knowing what is wrong with the coat that was improperly applied. We have an article here that lists all the benefits of a clear coating.
Greetings, thank you for your response. The 2nd area was cleaned but not thoroughly. In looking at the floor, it is obvious that a good portion of the cleaning solution was not completely rinsed off either. Also, the floor was still wet when the epoxy was applied. We would like to attempt some corrective measures before applying the clear coat.
Hmmm… You still have not indicated what is wrong with the second coating, Sokosha. Is it adhered properly and just doesn’t look good? If so, you can sand the surface with 120 grit sandpaper, vacuum the surface, and then wipe it down with denature alcohol before applying a second color coat. If the color coat is not adhered well or showing signs of lifting or peeling, then you will need to remove it entirely via grinding before applying a new color coat.
What can I put over a alphatic urethane clear coat that’s been on concrete for 5 years?
Thanks 🙏🏻
Hello Christian. As long as you prep the surface properly as described in the article, you can apply any coating of your choice over it.
We had a high gloss epoxy metal flake covering applied to our garage floor. It just went down yesterday but I can already tell I don’t like the result. The colors do not blend right. Can I wait until this one cures, and then have it re-sanded, primed, and lay down epoxy all over again? I.e., epoxy on top of epoxy?
Hello Todd. No need for a primer. Just let it cure for 24 hours or so then degloss and rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper. You can also use a floor maintainer with a green scrub pad (dry not wet). Wipe it down with denatured alcohol after the cleanup and you will be ready to go. This is actually a common practice between coats for professional installers looking for the smoothest and highest gloss in their metallic coating systems.
Thank you!
Hi, I’ve got a shop and I used sherwin armor seal 1000 along with 2 coats of sherwin armorseal rexthane. It’s a great product, but I ran into an issue with touching up. I have a large table I had to move along with a couple other large items that required touch ups. I still had some armorseal epoxy left unmixed from the original batch and mixed it up and tried touching up those spots with a brush and a small roller. Now those spots aren’t matching color wise. I don’t know whether to get a new kit and tape off the bad areas and try again, or to start over with an easier to use product? I was looking up rustoleum recoat primer that states it can be used over previously epoxied floors. It is however water based. I believe the sherwin product on currently has a good bond, so I don’t think that would be a problem for the primer. My worry is that the primer doesn’t bond as advertised. The sherwin products are expensive too and I don’t want to keep throwing money at new kits if they won’t match close to what is there already? I guess my main question is, if I let the current sherwin product cure, do you think it’s possible that I could redo the garage with the Rust-Oleum primer and a more user friendly water based epoxy? I’ve used seal krete before and it worked great and is easy to use. I don’t think I could redo the whole shop with the sherwin armor seal without running into the same problems.
Hi Jon. No, do not use the Rust-Oleum primer. It’s intended for Rust-Oleum products and is inferior to all the materials you used so far. What you have applied is more of a commercial quality coating. You don’t want to follow up with a residential quality product. In addition, colors wont be close. Your coating is only as good as the weakest link. Same goes for the Seal Krete. Plus, it’s only paint and not a true epoxy – even worse. Unfortunately, coatings do not blend together like paint does on a wall. The overlap marks are very obvious and color can be an issue as you discovered. Applying a colored epoxy over the clear just makes it worse. Are these touched up areas close to each other or across a large part of the floor?
Thanks for the response! They are grouped mostly in one half of the shop. I ended up breaking down and buying a new kit. I had sherwin shake up the part A gallon so the color is mixed well. It should now be mixed exactly the same as before, perfect one to one ratio. I taped off the one half of the shop with most of the touch ups and just rolled out the new epoxy to get an even coat. I’m gonna let it set up over the weekend and then do a first clear coat over the new area. Then make a new tape line into the previous rexthane, sand it up just a little bit and add a second clear coat. I really hope it works. I know it takes a couple weeks to cure and that the color will darken over that time. I tried to replicate everything I did before and am hoping that everything will look uniform except for a slight tape line which I can live with.
Fantastic. It’s definitely a better plan than what you were initially pondering. Good job on working the problem through and good luck!
Hi there,
In our basement, we had beautiful stained concrete floors done, however, were really unsatisfied with the dullness and sensitivity of the concrete a few years later, so we applied Rust-Oleum epoxy shield ourselves (directed by the concrete company). It looked and worked great! However does scratch easily and my husband has worn down to the concrete in an area. We’re wondering if we can spot repair with more Rust-Oleum vs redoing the entire floor? Just wanting to avoid an uneven texture or finish.
Hi Kristen. You can spot repair, however, the spot repairs will be obvious. Coatings do not blend like paint on a wall does. The overlap marks of the new coating will be detectable and the gloss will be higher. If you want an epoxy that does not scratch as easily, we would recommend using a 100% solids epoxy. It will provide a thicker build (3x), more gloss, and much better abrasion ratings that Rust-Oleum. It will last years and years longer. 100% solids epoxy has less VOC’s than water-based epoxy as well. It’s a little more difficult to apply though because you only have about 30 minutes to get it down where as Rust-Oleum allows for almost 2 hours.
Thank you!! Can’t tell you how much I appreciate your help!
Hi there-
A late response/question to the above, but do we need to sand any other areas beyond the area that’s worn down to bare?
And do you recommend a particular product? 100 solids epoxy for residential concrete floors (diy).
Hi Kristen. You need to sand any area where the epoxy will be applied. If you plan on applying 100% solids epoxy to the entire floor, then you need to sand the entire floor. There are many good vendors to purchase it from, many of which advertise on our website. You won’t find it at a home improvement store. This here is a good product that you can purchase direct from Amazon.
Thank you!
Just wondering.. what happens if we don’t sand the entire floor? We can’t simply apply a new layer over the current epoxy?
It will peel up. Proper prep of the surface is the MOST IMPORTANT step in applying any coating. The majority of coating failures are due to improper surface prep. The epoxy needs the rougher surface in order to achieve mechanical grip.
Hello,
I have a garage floor that I applied the Gray Rust-oleum epoxy paint with flakes to about 10 years ago. It now needs to be done again. I did not put a clear coat finish on this 10 years ago but will be this time around. For the most part, the old epoxy has adhered well to the floor. There are just a couple of spots the it has worn through to the concrete. (couple of tire marks where vehicle parked over the years).
Would it be ok/wise for me to just use the 60-80 grit sanding screen technique mentioned in this article to prep before I re-coat? Or would this not be enough prep work?
Also, I was thinking about using a different color this time around. Would there be any foreseen problems with changing the color?
Thank You Much!
Hi Josh. Yes, the sanding screen will work well. Before you do that though, we recommend cleaning up any tire marks on the bare concrete and then etch just those spots with the supplied etching solution. You may or may not have an issue going with a different color. The Rust-Oleum coatings are thin residential quality coatings and the old color may or may not have an affect on the new one. If it does, a second coat would solve the problem.
I used rustoleum gray garage coating a couple years ago. In a haste I only did one thin coat. There are a few spots were I have some lifting. How do I prepare the floor to properly redo them. Thanks.
Hi Aileen. Lifting is an indicator that the concrete was not prepped sufficiently for the coating to adhere properly. If you want to apply a high quality coating, then we recommend that you remove the old coating in its entirety. The best was is to grind the surface. If you are looking to apply a similar product to what you used before, then we recommend scraping the surface well to remove any loose coating that you can find. Sand the remaining coating that is left and then etch the concrete with the supplied etching solution that the epoxy kit provides. After, that you can apply the coating.
Hi Shea,
I just purchased a home. Garage epoxy if 5 years old. The current epoxy is light blue with flakes.
I’m going to have someone redo the epoxy to freshen it up. The floor isn’t damaged, no cracks, no grease – just looks old.
I don’t want to grind….would you mind giving your recommendation on what to use and steps. If possible.
Thank you,
Vince
Hello Vince. We have an article here that explains how to prep older coating for a new coat.
Hi I have a new concrete floor that I have just stenciled- painted with porch paint directly onto concrete. I want a high gloss, durable sealant and I’m wondering if I can epoxy or will it not adhere to the surface? To reiterate it would be a mix of concrete and paint which is in a pattern all over. Concrete is fairly smooth and I could not etch it first otherwise I would get very blurred lines when I painted the stencil. If epoxy is wrong can you suggest another strong sealant. Thank you! vix
Hi Victoria. No, you can’t apply epoxy. Most coatings need to have the proper surface profile prep in order to penetrate the concrete to adhere. In addition, it would require that you rough up the paint as well (the color comes back with the coating). About the only option that would work would be a water-based clear acrylic sealer. Here is an example by Behr. It’s not nearly as durable as epoxy, but since it’s for foot traffic only it should hold up fairly well.
Thank you! Yes it’s just foot traffic so should be ok. I figured epoxy was a no, so glad you replied! Thanks.
Hello,
I am getting ready to apply a new coat of Rust-Oleum dark grey onto my garage floor which has a Rust-Oleum coat that is about 10 years old and has areas where the old epoxy has come up.
My question is, there are two ways to prep the floor listed about, one using a grinder to get to the cement floor other is to use 120 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander. I am guessing that the grinder is more for old epoxy like I have that is coming up where the 120 grit sand paper would be for someone who is putting on a second coat over a newer coat of epoxy. Can you shed some light to which way I should prep my older epoxied floor.
Thanks.
Hi Brian. If the current coating is suspect and peeling in multiple areas, then grinding to remove the coating and prep the concrete at the same time is the recommended method. The reason for this is that if you are not confident that the old coating is adhered well, then the new coating could peel right up in areas were the old coating comes loose. If you have properly scraped and removed all the areas where the old coating was flaking or peeling up and feel confident that the rest is adhered well, then you can sand the surface of the coating that remains and etch the bare concrete with the etch supplied in the kit. Just keep in mind that areas where you have bare concrete may provide a color tone difference with the new coating compared to the areas where the old coating remains.
Thanks for the info!
Hello
We just put down epoxy shield with flakes in our basement. The roller strokes are very noticeable. Is there a way to remedy this now that it’s completely cured?
Hi Paula. The only way to fix it would be to rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper and then apply a new coat. Roller marks are a sign of pushing down too hard or not having enough epoxy in the roller.
Would it be possible to blend strokes by hand using a sponge and circular motion? Thereby not having to redo entire floor.
Unfortunately, no. Epoxy does not blend like paint on a wall. It’s coating and requires that it be applied at a minimum thickness. And like all coatings, overlap areas from touch ups and so on stick out like a sore thumb.
Thanks for the advice. Bummed out but thanks.
Hi there!
We have a Rustoleum covered (diy) stained concrete floor/ high glass. Per your earlier recommendation, we’ll be redoing it in a few weeks with a 100% solids product due to high abrasion with the Rustoleum. What I’m wondering is- are there solids products that come in a clear matte finish vs gloss? Can you do a matte covering OVER the high gloss we currently have? And would this be better for showing less marks (footprints, dust, scratches)?
Thanks!
Hi Kristen. We get quite a few questions per day. Can you refresh my memory about your project? Is this for a garage floor or somewhere else? Is the Rust-Oleum epoxy still on the floor?
It’s for our basement in our home. And yes- rustoleum is still on (but definitely scratched and worn in places). We had the floors professionally done (stained concrete) and added the rustoleum diy several years later.
OK, that helps. Most 100% solids epoxy is going to have a glossy finish. The reason is that gloss finishes provide the best wear resistance. However, you could apply a water-based polyurethane concrete coating in a satin finish. Polyurethane has better scratch resistance and wear resistance compared to epoxy. This product here would be an example. DO NOT confuse the polyurethane for wood floors and furniture as a concrete coating. More than one person has contacted us when they purchased a polyurethane from their local home improvement center (thinking they were saving money) and ended up with a mess on their hands after discovering they used the wrong product.
Thank you! What would YOU do?! Taking cost, durability, appearance, and ease of application into consideration between the solids epoxy and poly options for a residential setting?
The water-based polyurethane is going to be the easier of the two to apply and would be our choice as long as the current epoxy surface is not bare anywhere. Plus, it will provide the satin look you want and provide for longer wear due to the higher abrasion ratings. 100% solids clear epoxy has a limited working time of 20-30 minutes. It’s not difficult to apply, but its does require close attention to detail in planning in order to get it down in time. It does provide for a thicker surface, so though it wears quicker than polyurethane, it will take longer to wear through than the current epoxy you have.
Thank you for your response! My last question.. our current Rustoleum epoxy has been scratched away in one particular area from a computer chair. So does this preclude us from the polyurethane option?
Polyurethane does not adhere to bare concrete (stained is still considered bare) very well. If it’s a large area with bare concrete, then you would need to use epoxy or it will peel. If it’s a large area with a lot of scratching down to the bare concrete but still has much epoxy covering it, then the polyurethane will still adhere well.
My contractor has made a mistake of purchasing and applying the wrong color of epoxy on my garage floor. To make it right he is about to repaint the epoxy with the correct color. (Both epoxy colors are rust-oleum brands) but this time he purchased a 1 car sized kit, instead of the 2.5 he used last time. Upon questioning the size he bought, he claims this is all we need since the floor is already coated. Do you agree that this will do or do we need another 2.5 car kit again?
Hello Natasha. NO! Do not let your contractor attempt that. One of the number one rules is that you DO NOT stretch coverage rates for coatings. The other color will bleed through and it will look bad. You need the appropriate amount of coating material – period. This is a typical problem with building contractors who are not concrete coating contractors. They think concrete coatings are just like applying paint and it’s not. Also, if the coating has been down for more than 76 hours, it will require that it be roughed up with 120 grit sandpaper first or it will not adhere properly and peel when you drive on it.
Thank you for the swift response. It’s much appreciated.
Update: the contractor bought a second kit and the floors have been sanded.
OK, good!
I have a gray polyurethane coated basement floor (professionally done) that just had a vertical settling crack repaired. They had to chisel out a small area in the floor in front of the crack, so now there is a semi-circular new concrete patch about 2 feet wide by 10 inches deep that shows past the finished wall in our rec room. Is there any way to recoat this small area to seal it and have it look a little nicer with the rest of the floor? I doubt that I could get a contractor to take on such a small area.
Hi Patricia. Was your floor all gray without color flakes? If it has color flakes, was a clear coat applied over the flakes?
All Gray, No Flakes.
OK, that makes it easier. If you can’t source the same product that the contractor used, we would recommend using a product called DuraGrade Concrete. It’s a moisture cured polyurethane concrete coating that can be applied direct to concrete in most cases. In addition, they offer quart sizing so you would not have to purchase a full gallon for such a small area. They have three different colors of gray, so hopefully one of those would be close to a match. We include the color chart in our article here, as well as where it can be purchased. You will need to rough up the edges of the old coating with 120 grit sandpaper in order for the DuraGrade to adhere. Keep in mind that even if the color is a close match, coatings do not blend together like paint does on a wall. You are still going to see where the new coating overlaps the old.
Thanks! I figured it won’t look like brand new, but hopefully it will be an improvement and re-establish the seal. You’ve been very helpful; I doubt I could have figured out what to do or use on my own.
You are welcome, Patricia.
Hi Shea,
What 100% solids product would you recommend for a residential basement floor?
We have professionally stained concrete floors with our diy Rustoleum clear coat that has scratched and abraded in spots. My husband is sanding today with 80 grit.
My understanding is we can’t do a polyurethane product to the now sanded down concrete, without first doing epoxy?
The company that performed our polished and stained floors recommended SW ArmourShield products, but is this overkill?
This was a very expensive floor..just don’t want to make a mistake.
Thank you!!
Hi Kristen. That’s correct, polyurethane does not adhere well to bare concrete and needs to be applied on top of a coating. If the current clear coat is bare in places, then the polyurethane would not adhere well in those spots. Sherwin-Williams ArmorSeal 8100 water-based epoxy would be one alternative. However, it’s a low solids epoxy and would not perform much better than Rust-Oleum did. Their General Polymers 3589 is a 100% solids and would be a better choice. You would need to call and ask as we are not as familiar with their line. Again, the reason for using 100% solids is that it has very low to no VOC’s and wears much better than low solids water-based epoxy. RokRez Pro is an example of a 100% solids clear epoxy that works well. You can purchase here from Amazon.
Thank you so very much. The rep at the commercial SW store told me that we could not apply epoxy again unless we etched or grinded the floor (sanding not sufficient), as we are way outside of the “cure window” by several years. So, they instead recommended a polyurethane water based product that could be applied over the sanded previously-epoxy-coated floor. They said this was enough for proper adherence and would wear better; advised 2-3 coats.
Does this sound accurate to you? I’m beyond confused because it seems like there’s a lot of differing opinions and info out there.
Sigh… this why we started this website. It’s obvious that the guy at the SW store has never coated a floor in his life. Any epoxy coating can be applied to another coating that is outside the cure window. All that is required is the proper sanding in order to provide the correct profile for the coating to adhere. This is done time and time again by professionals. In fact, it’s common practice to do this when trying to achieve mirror glass finishes for metallic epoxy floors. It’s also how you can completely renew a floor coating system when you apply a new clear coat later in the life of a coating. The fact that he said you would need to etch the coating is an ignorant statement. You cannot etch coatings – only bare, unsealed concrete.
If they have a water-based polyurethane that will adhere to bare concrete, then that will work as well since you have actual bare spots where the coating is gone. Some water-based polyurethanes are available in a matte or semi-gloss finish which is what I believe you preferred. If not, then the epoxy will work fine.
Thank you- you’ve been such a saving grace in this overwhelming project!
So sanding the floor was not a mistake (I hope you’ll tell me?)
I did not buy their product as I just felt so confused, but, from what you’ve said- either a polyurethane made-for-concrete OR a 100% solids epoxy would be advisable? And if you HAD to choose one over the other at this point (with ‘remnants’ of the Rustoleum low solids epoxy still present on floor), you would choose a polyurethane product?
Anything else I should know? I really hope this is my last message ever to you because things go so well 🙂
No, sanding was not a mistake at all. We are not aware of any water-based polyurethane that can be applied direct to concrete. That is why we referenced the SW polyurethane with an “if”. That said, 100% solids epoxy would be the only choice if you want a long wear coating that can be applied indoors without VOC’s. Also, make sure to check the bare areas with no coating with a water drop test. Place a few drops of water on the concrete and if it immediately turns darker and gets absorbed fairly quick, then that area is ready for the epoxy.