It’s not recommended. Concrete dyes require a clear film forming topcoat to protect them and make the color pop. This article explains more.

Is there a concrete dye that can be used in conjunction with PS103 and PS100

Hi Numbers. Yikes… acid etching is not something that should be done when applying penetrating sealers. The etching process is unpredictable and cannot be controlled. Blotchiness and variations in porosity are common. This is because the concrete density and minerals content are not consistent at the surface or throughout the concrete. Etching is the concrete prep process used to open the pores at the surface to accept coatings. Penetrating sealers such as PS100 essentially become ineffective because the concrete will absorb too much of it. The pop outs are a concern as well. Even without the etching, a penetrating sealer would not be effective. They need to be properly repaired first. Have you checked for other potential pop outs? This can be done by tapping the concrete with a hammer or dragging a chain across the surface. It will sound slightly hollow where the weak surface areas are. These areas should be knocked out and repaired as well. We would recommend using a polymer-modified concrete repair material. We have an article here that discusses garage floor concrete repair.

Yes, at this point need to change systems and move to a coating. Unless you completely rework the surface via light grinding and then honing to a smoother profile, penetrating sealers will not work. Since you were originally opting for the bare concrete look, we would recommend TS210 Concrete Sealer. This is a very durable, thin filmed clear coating that will not suffer hot tire pickup. It’s also highly stain resistant. You can read about it here. The other option is to apply a decorative epoxy or polyurea coating system. These are very durable as well, but will cost quite a bit more. We do not recommend a home improvement store product such as EpoxyShield or RockSolid.

Ok, so I ordered (and received) both PS103 and PS100 to put down the PS103 ahead of PS100. Concrete is new power troweled but several months old. I pressure washed the surface and let it dry. Did the teaspoon of water test several places and it pooled rather than soaking in. So right or wrong I acid etched the the surface. Then re-power washed the whole surface again. This process has brought to light several conditions:
1. The surface now seems rather abrasive/rough. My concern is that although the PS100 will seal the molecules it will be difficult to wipe up an oil spill.
2. Apparently the concrete was over-trowelled and there are a number of pop-outs. Most are probably 1/8″ deep or so any where from dime to quarter size and one at least that is probably 3/8″ deep but relatively small at the surface. My Concern is that even if the PS100 seals the molecules it will be very difficult to clean any oil spills out of the pop-outs.
3. The acid etching has left a mottled surface with variations from almost light tan to very light gray. (Not sure if this is because the etching has exposed the sand or if the acid itself caused the discoloration.) I had hoped to wind up with a uniform light gray/fresh concrete look. I’m concerned that if I drop a nut or bolt on the surface it may not show up as readily.
(I would send pictures but I don’t know how to attach them.

Any suggestions? Do I need to change systems?

Thanks

Hi Ronald. Joints can’t be sealed with concrete sealers. The small cracks at the bottom can’t be bridged by the sealers. Apply the PS104 first. After it has dried, you can then seal your joints with the proper product. We recommend a self-leveling polyurethane sealant. SikaFlex SL is an example, but there are others. Don’t use caulk as it will shrink over time and pull away in areas.

Hi Shea, you’ve been a great help so far. I’ve ordered the PS104 for my garage and walkway project. Another question: both my smooth garage floor and broom finished garage skirt have several precut openings crossing them. Do I need to fill those with silicone caulking or other material prior to the application of the PS104 or will the sealer itself be enough?