As an Amazon Associate All Garage Floors earns from qualifying purchases.
Learning how to repair a garage floor doesn’t have to be as scary as it sounds. You may be surprised to learn that many repairs can be done easily by yourself and for less expense than you think. Typically with a garage floor there are three types of repairs that are the most common; surface cracks, pitting, and spalling. Pitting and spalling can be just as easy to repair as most cracks, it just takes a little more work.
If you are applying a sealer, paint, or an epoxy system, then you will want to make sure your garage floor is repaired properly to make it is as blemish free as possible. If you are covering your floor with a tile or mat flooring then repairs may not be necessary unless you are trying to stop a continuing problem like pitting and spalling or you are worried about water penetration.
Why garage floors crack
Garage floors crack – period. Concrete is not a ductile material, meaning that it neither stretches nor bends without breaking. It does shrink and expand with temperature, however, and as a result it cracks.
Most floors have contraction joints built into the slab that allow for this cracking. These are usually those deep grooves or saw cut joints that you see in the concrete that appear to divide a typical two-car garage into four separate slabs. These grooves create a weakened line in the concrete that encourages cracks to follow the groove instead of wondering across the surface.
As well as contraction joints work though, you still can get cracks in other parts of the concrete due to the settling of the earth underneath the slab, curing issues, or other variables beyond your control. The good news is that the majority of cracks are cosmetic and not structural in nature. This means that they can be repaired to accept most any garage flooring.
Recommended crack repair products
Always use an epoxy, polyurethane, or polyurea based crack repair or crack filling compound that is sandable. These cure and harden at a strength greater than concrete and will prevent water intrusion as well. You can grind or sand them flush with the concrete and they will accept paint or an epoxy coating.
Do not use inexpensive water based or latex based concrete crack filler and repair products. This is what most home improvement centers carry since they are cheap and easy to use. The problem with them is that they are not sandable, they will not accept paint, and they will shrink over time and pull away from the repair. Do not use a self leveling sealant either as these are designed mostly for sealing control joints in the concrete.
One such example of an epoxy based crack repair product that we know works very well is Simpson Strong-Tie Crack-Pak at Amazon. It comes in a 9 oz. cartridge that requires a caulking gun to apply it. The 2-part epoxy is separated inside the container. The self mixing cartridge tip eliminates the need to mix the 2-parts together and makes application easy.
Another excellent crack repair product that we have experience with is PC-Concrete Epoxy Crack Repair at Amazon. It is a thicker flowing epoxy that requires using a putty knife to work into the crack. It also works well for filling small holes and divots in the concrete. Like other cartridge epoxy repair products, it comes with a self mixing tip as well.
A third product that we can recommend is Rust-Oleum’s EpoxyShield Concrete Patch. This is a 2-part epoxy as well that requires you to mix the separate Part-A and Part-B materials together on a piece of cardboard or wood.
You can sometimes find it at most home improvement centers or you can purchase it here at Amazon
.
If you are repairing numerous cracks larger than 1/4″ wide, then your best bet would be an epoxy concrete patch kit that is available in 1 gallon containers or larger. This type of product is an excellent choice for deeper and larger width cracks that span a long length of the garage floor.
These usually consist of a 100% solids epoxy gel that has a sand aggregate that you can mix in as a filler. Once you apply it to the crack it can be troweled smooth with a concrete float. One of our favorites that we recently reviewed is Xtreme Set 100 by Legacy Industrial.
You will not find product like this at a home improvement center either. Instead, they are much more common in the professional floor coating industry and will need to be purchased online in most cases. You can find a good example of such kits from Legacy Industrial or this one from EpoxyMaster.
Repairing Cracks in Your Garage Floor
The first thing you need to do when making a crack repair is to chase the crack. This is the process of using a hammer and cold chisel to break way any loose edges or material within the crack. The repair is only as strong as the material it adheres to.
If you don’t have a cold chisel, you can easily find them at your local home improvement center or purchase them online from Amazon
. We prefer the ones with the hand guard.
Chase the crack by placing your cold chisel at an angle that runs in line with the crack. Firmly hit it with a large hammer or small hand held sledge hammer. The chisel will break away any loose material as you hit it with the hammer. Continue in this fashion until you have chased the entire crack.
Use a shop vac to clean out the loose debris and then scrub the crack well with a stiff wire brush. This will remove any weak laitance and prep the surface for the repair material. Vacuum out the crack again and then you are ready to apply your repair.
Be sure to follow the directions carefully for the product that you use. If you use a 2-part epoxy gel or 2-part epoxy sand slurry, work it good into the crack in order to push out any trapped air. Once it’s worked in, trowel it as smooth as you can before the material begins to set up. Watch for any low spots that may need additional repair material added.
If you are using the Simpson Strong-Tie or similar product for larger cracks, it works best to fill 3/4 of the crack with silica sand first. Apply the Simpson Strong-Tie over the sand up to the top of the concrete. Allow a couple minutes for it to soak in and then apply it again to fill in the low spots.
Once you do that, apply more sand loosely over the repair and let it set for 20 minutes. After it has set, you can scrape off the top layer with a paint scraper or putty knife.
Once the repair has cured, you can grind it flush to create an even transition if you will be applying paint or an epoxy coating. This will prevent most repairs from telegraphing through the coating and you will not see them.
Contrary to some information out there, you do not need to chisel cracks to form an inverted or backward-angled cut. This is only required of large repairs that are made using concrete or a cement based patch.
Since new concrete does not adhere well to previously cured concrete, the backward-angled cut helps to keep the material from lifting out. Epoxy, polyurethane, and polyurea crack repair products on the other hand form a tenacious bond to properly prepared concrete and do not need an inverted cut to stay in place.
Another process which works well for chasing cracks is to use a small 4″ angle grinder with a crack chasing masonry wheel. The wheel is tapered to form a nice clean groove in the concrete. You can see how it works in the video below.
Chasing a crack with 4″ angle grinder and a crack chasing wheel
When repairing deep cracks, it’s best to fill the crack part way with silica sand. This will prevent the repair material from seeping down deep into the concrete and settling. It saves you from using excess material as well as creating low spots that need to be refilled.
Repairing Spalled and Pitted Garage Floors
Pitting of a garage floor can be caused by improper finishing of the concrete or a bad mix. Sometimes it is most notable at the edges of contraction joints or where the concrete might meet up with another slab.
Spalling on the other hand is generally caused by freeze-thaw cycles in colder climates and aggravated by deicing salts. Water migrates into the surface of the concrete and freezes. The expansion of the water causes microscopic damage to the concrete and after a few years of this it starts to breakup in small dusty pieces and chips.
For repair of the floor you will want to use an epoxy sand slurry or a polymer-modified cement topping or patching mix. Which type you use depends on the extent of the repair. It requires a little more effort that repairing a crack, but it’s not that hard to do.
After the surface has been prepared properly, you apply the mix over the pitted areas using a trowel. Some mixes are self-leveling and can be applied with a metal squeegee. Be sure to feather-in smooth and let it cure according to the instructions. You may need an additional application to fill in any small divots or low spots you missed.
You should end up with a nicely repaired surface that won’t be noticeable once it is painted or epoxied over. We cover this in more detail in our article on how to repair spalled or pitted concrete.
One thing to be aware of if you are planning on applying a clear coat sealer to your concrete is that any patchwork that you have done will be enhanced by the sealer. However, if you are applying a colored paint or colored epoxy sealer, then you should have the appearance of a nicely smooth concrete slab free of blemishes.
With the multiple coat epoxy floor coatings you shouldn’t have to worry about filling the smaller hairline cracks as the thicker surface coat of epoxy will do this for you.
Low Spots and Other Repair Issues
One thing we did not cover is sunken slabs. Unfortunately these are not a quick fix and can be costly to repair. These can be caused from severe settling of the soil, poorly reinforced slabs, or something worse such as underground water problems. Sometimes the only alternative is to tear out the old slab, address any soil compaction requirements, and pour new concrete.
However, if you just have low spots in your slab that collect water due to a bad finishing job, there is an answer. You can use a self-leveling polymer-modified topping or epoxy slurry to fill in those low spots. Don’t fill in any of your contraction joints. If you do, you can scrape it out later as it starts to harden. Just make sure the product you use is designed for outdoor use.
Properly completed, repairs can last for years if not the lifetime of the garage floor. If you can patch a wall before painting, then you have the skills to do the same for your floor and avoid the much more expensive option of having someone do it for you.
Shea,
I need to repair a thru crack in the concrete floor for a 10 x 16 shed. What would be the best way to repair? First fill the crack with sand to and then use a product to help bind and level the floor?
Hello Jeni. Filling the crack up most of the way with sand and then filling it with epoxy is one of the best ways to repair larger cracks. It generally requires two applications as the first will tend to settle as the epoxy works its way into the sand. This product here works well for that as well. If rebar or wire mesh was used when the slab was poured, then this type of repair should be permanent. However, if one side of the slab is higher than the other due to no reinforcement (rebar – wiremesh) being used, then the crack is most likely due to settling or shifting of the soil underneath. If this is the case, then you may experience more cracking as time goes on.
I’m a little confused. The first product says it’s for cracks less than 1/8″ wide … but it seems like once you chase the crack, you are almost certain to have a space wider than that?
I’m getting ready to epoxy an old garage floor, and I’m getting aggravated at the expense of the prep … even to chase the cracks is the cost of an angle grinder, dust shroud, crack chasing wheel, dust masks and then the cost for the crack filler, and the diamond wheel for the grinder to flatten the repair.
Do I need to fill the cracks before renting the big floor grinder? Or can I do the big grind, then chase the cracks, fill them and grind them smooth with an angle grinder?
Hello Al. We state in the article that for cracks larger than 1/8″ wide you will want to use a silica sand with the product. Fill the crack with the sand and then apply the Simpson Strong-Tie. Unless you are using a DiamaBrush grinder, you can always fill the cracks and then grind them flush as you grind the floor. The DiamaBrush grinding attachment does not work as well for grinding repairs flush. It’s more of a concrete prep tool and not a hard core grinder. That is why it is easier to work with for many people. Unfortunately, older concrete floors with multiple cracks and repairs are going to require more work and more tools to prep properly for a coating than a concrete surface in good condition.
Up to how wide can the crack be to fix diy vs when it would be a good idea to just replace the concrete floor?
Hi BeeAza. There are actually quite a few more variables that go into deciding whens to replace a slab other than the width of a crack. Settling, soil erosion, root intrusion from large trees causing uplifting, length of time the crack has been there without expanding, condition of the slab surface, and etc. Once a crack has exceeded 3/8″ or so, it’s a good idea to investigate what is causing that crack to begin with. Properly filling and repairing it may only be a bandaid fix if there is something else going on or it may be fine. Repairing a crack is not going to prevent a slab from cracking again or that same crack from getting wider if something else is causing the slab to crack in the first place.
My garage is clearly setteling. I have a large star cracked floor which has the front left end obviously dropping, causing cracks in concrete blocked inner wall as well as cracks in sidewalk just outside the garage door. I need suggestions on how and what to do. Dont know if i should call one of those concrete jacking companies, or if im in such bad shape that the only option is to completely overhaul garage. Im too old to afford the later.
Hello Don. You need to first figure out what is causing the settling and determine if it is still settling or not. Cracking of the inner block wall is not good. Concrete jacking will only be temporary if the ground continues its movement. We would suggest contacting a city or county building inspection dept. to get leads on a recommended soil engineer who can asses the area for you. If it has stopped, concrete jacking may be cheaper than a new slab. Of course you need to factor in repairs of the open cracks as well once the slab is raised and leveled.
I’m confused too. So, do you need to chase a crack that is less than 1/8″ wide for the Simpson Strong-Tie Crack-Pak?
Hello Kelly. You always want to chase a crack if you can. It removes any weak or loose edges of concrete along the crack. Some cracks are too small to do this, however. If you can’t fit a chisel blade within the crack, then no need to chase it.
Thanks, that helps a lot. My cracks are too small for the chisel blade.
I did attempt to fill the crack with Simpson Strong-Tie Crack-Pak, and boy is it runny (you don’t even need to squeeze the bottle to get it to flow). Motor oil is the best description, but I didn’t realize how much it would seep into the crack forcing me to comeback and refill often. I could see how chasing the crack would create a nice funnel to help hold and direct the overflow crack filler.
I would also add, that I didn’t find that the filler hardens all that fast (still waiting to see how it does harden actually). I hope I did it right. Fingers crossed.
We recommend to fill the cracks with clean sand beforehand if you can. This helps to reduce the amount of filler used and slows down the seepage. It sometimes requires two applications. It takes about an hour to set up. After that, add more if needed.
I used the Simpson Strong Tie product. It soaked into some of the cracks and I ran out of material. Can I add a second coat to the cracks after it has cured for a week?
Hi Mitch. Yes, you can certainly do that. All you need to wait is about an hour before applying more. As a tip, if the cracks are wider than a business card, we recommend first filling them with clean sand. This will slow down how much material runs down deep into the crack and it also requires that you use less.
Thanks Shea, the information on this site has been very helpful (this is all new to me). A couple more questions.
I added a second coat of the Strong Tie. Before the second coat, I filled the cracks with sand. In some spots it still left a crack (settled in). So this time I tried the Rustoleum concrete repair product recommended in the article. The putty knife left a smooth flush surface. I am going to put on a Legacy epoxy primer followed by Nohr-s, do I need to grind the repairs even if they are flush? (to prepare the surface?)
With regard to grinding. I ground the whole floor with Diamabrush and I used a 4.5 in grinder for the edges. The dust shroud on the grinder would only allow me to get with an 1/2 to 1 along the wall. Do I need to finish the last part without the dust shroud?
Hi Mitch. The last half inch you couldn’t reach will be OK. Regarding the crack repair; Repairs that are not finished to create a smooth transition from the repair to concrete will telegraph through the coating. Think of it like repairing a wood crack in a piece of furniture that will get painted. The repair is usually sanded smooth with the rest of the wood so that it is not noticed. It’s up to you to decide if you can get away without lightly grinding it flush. If it’s a wide crack, the repair needs to be sanded at the minimum so that the coating will adhere.
I accidentally used a crack sealant to repair the cracks and defects in my garage floor. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-1-oz-Gray-Crack-Flex-Sealant-427706/203249445. It is already separating from some cracks after a few weeks.
How should I go about fixing my mistake of not using an epoxy based crack repair?
Hi Adam. If the cracks are not too wide, we would recommend grinding the sealant out with the method that is outlined in the video. If the cracks are wider than the crack chasing wheel, it will require digging the sealant out. Acetone will help to soften the sealant when doing this. Once you are done, you can properly fill the cracks with the appropriate product.
Hello Shea,
I also applied a similar Polyurethane based sealant to fill the cracks.
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/zinsser-zinssr-watertite-poly-sealant-300ml/1000739183
Can I just grind off the excessive sealant (since it’s not sand-able) along the edges to flush with the concrete but leave the sealant inside the cracks?
This article says “Always use an epoxy, polyurethane, or polyurea based crack repair or crack filling compound that is sandable.”. Does it mean the polyurethane here only supposed to be applied AFTER epoxy? (e.g. fill the expansion) but not before?
My situation is very much like the pics as shown here (you did comment as well). The cracks are relative small.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373200
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Hao. The product you used is a crack and joint repair sealant. It is not a crack repair product. Paint and especially coatings should not be applied over them because they will not adhere well. In addition, if the cracks are much wider than 1/8″ or so, the material can flex and may cause the coating to crack. Crack and joint sealants are a self-leveling type of polyurethane that cannot be sanded and can chunk under a grinder. Actual crack “repair” products cans be sanded and grinded and will accept a coating. Crack and joint “sealants” are used for concrete that is intended to stay bare or it is used to seal expansion joints (not contraction joints) that cannot be coated anyways. If your cracks are wider than 1/8″, we recommend that you chase the cracks to remove the sealant and then use the proper repair materials. If they are 1/8″ or smaller, then grind away any excess material on the surface and leave the rest as is.
Shea,
Thanks for your quick reply. The cracks are roughly around 1/16 and the widest does not go over 1/8. It’s a 10 years house and I assume it’s kind of already settled down (don’t have impression the cracks become wider).
I will try to grind the excess surface first and see if the inside stay. Yes I should have read your article first or paid more attentions about which repair materials to choose. So many traps along this DIY projects :-). There is Rust-Oleum’s EpoxyShield Concrete Patch available at my local home depot store. The only reason I did not take that was because I did not believe I needed that many as my cracks are not that wide/many and any repair materials can easily fill that gap.
One thing I did notice is that, when I peeled off some polyurethane layer, one small concrete chip (about the size of small finger nail) came off. What would be the best choice to fill/glue that part?
Thanks
That is why it’s important to chase cracks or run a chisel quickly through them first. When concrete cracks, it can leave a loose and jagged edge that easily falls apart. I would recommend using the Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch on any areas that do this.
Thanks for going over all the latest products used. It never hurts to be constantly improving and using the best products. In our business we are really partial to the PC-Concrete epoxy as well. We enjoy all of your content
Best,
Tom
So I was planning on using a Rocksolid product over an existing (30 years old) garage floor that has a bunch of 1/4 pits in the tire areas and a few small cracks. My problem is that I have EpoxyShield down, that is good in the surrounding areas but not where the cars run in and out.
In talking with Rustoleum 5 times they are NEVER consistent in telling me if they have a patch repair kit that can go over top the “solid” EpoxyShield. Is there a product or does it have to be stripped? I have tried the Rustoleum stripping product–with not much success yet.
Thanks
Hi Greg. No, patch repairs should never be applied to/over coatings or paint. It’s imperative to remove any coatings, paint, sealers, and etc before application. It needs to adhere to bare concrete to be effective. Grinding is the best method to remove old epoxy and loose or fractured concrete. Plus, it’s best to grind any repairs flush before application of the coating -just as a body shop sands repairs for a fender dent or a woodworker sands for filled holes. If this is not done, the repair can telegraph through the coating if it’s not very smooth. Harbor Freight sells 4″ angle grinders for $15 and you can find the appropriate grinding wheels from Amazon for even less.
about to do an epoxy garage floor covering and unclear if i need to fill in the expansion joints along with the small floor cracks and pitting areas before the grinding process .
Hi Brian. If you plan on filling the contraction joints across the middle of the floor or doing any general repairs such as cracks and pitting, then definitely get that done first. The grinding will help create a smooth transition and even out those areas so that it does not telegraph through the coating.
The last issue I have questions about is a decent sized hole/crack in the corner of my garage floor slab. It is roughly 2 ft long X 6 in wide and angles down to a depth of about 3-4 inches (I included a google photos link with pictures). I added tapcon screws to help act as a sort of “rebar” between old and new concrete and added a concrete primer. I was thinking of using the “Quikcrete Polymer Modified Structural Repair” product to fill this in (because I know the article recommends a polymer modified patch). I was wondering if you had any opinion on this or any recommendations for this type of repair. The product I got said it could handle repairs over 2″ as long as there was rebar support. Let me know if you have any thoughts – i think a larger repair article could be really helpful if you ever get around to it, i really havent been able to find much else online for this type of repair and seems like it would be fairly common. Thanks!
The Quikrete Polymer Modified Structural Repair will work fine. The requirement for rebar is actually for vertical repairs. For horizontal repairs over 2″ they recommend adding some aggregate as filler. The Tapcon screws won’t hurt anything. Ardex FDM is a product that works very well. However, you can’t source it from a local home improvement center and they only come in 50 lb bags. Most people don’t need this much repair mix and is why products like Quikrete and others tend to favor the DIY crowd.
Shea
Per to the discussion above, I am now grinding off the Polyurethane sealant along the crack surface. I found after that, the surface has been grinded is slighted lower than the rest. Do I have to back fill with Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch to make it even? Or the 100% solids epoxy I will going to apply later will self-leveling?
In terms of using Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch, will it easily level with the surface if I use it either fill the crack or back-fill as mentioned above? Otherwise, I have to do the grind/sanding again? But I guess it should be easier to handle than Polyurethane sealant?
Also, the Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch manual says apply it AFTER the etch process. It guess it makes sense as the etch might damage the epoxy patch. On the flip side though, if I have to sand/grind after applying the patch (after etch), it will make the clean floor messy again?
Last question, sorry so many :-), do I have to apply epoxy coating immediately (as soon as the floor is dried normally after 24-48hrs) after etch? Is it a concern if I leave several days (< a week) apart – as long as I trade the floor as clean area during this period?
Any suggestions? Much appreciated.
Hao
Hi Hao. Are you saying the surface you grinded (not the crack sealant) is lower than the surrounding area? It would take some serious grinding for that to happen. Are you sure it’s not an illusion from the two different looking surfaces? 100% solids epoxy will tend to self-level if you are using a gauge rake for application over areas with small depressions. However, it will use much more epoxy and reduce your coverage rate quite a bit.
Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch does not self level. When mixed, it has the consistency of very soft putty. It needs to be pressed into cracks and holes, and troweled over surfaces. Don’t mix it all at once because you have a short pot life of 10 – 15 minutes. Start small to get an idea of how it works. Once applied, let it cure for 8 hours or so and then grind all the repairs flush. The grinding helps to hide the repairs (like filler on a fender before painting) and preps the epoxy surface for coating. Once you are done grinding, sweep and vacuum the surface of the floor before application of a coating. Rust-Oleum mentions the etching process because that is what they supply with their kits for concrete prep. It won’t affect epoxy. You do not have to apply coating immediately after etching or grinding. The concrete prep is permanent. Just make sure it is kept clean before you begin application.
I can see a little bit both. Some sections seems be just different looking while some are indeed slightly lower surface. Maybe it’s because my first time doing the grinding plus the grinding disk I am using (https://www.homedepot.ca/product/diablo-4-1-2-in-masonry-grinding-disc-type-27/1000719780). Mostly I used the disk vertically along the crack line surface.
I did the etching today and will apply the Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch tomorrow on the cracks (some of the Polyurethane sealant came off after grinding) and lower surface. Will see what’s the situation arise 🙂
Thanks for your suggestions.
OK. Just and FYI, the grinding wheel you are using is not for flat grinding. It’s more of a masonry cutting wheel. It will work OK for trying to dig out the sealant, but it should not be used for flat grinding concrete. It will leave gouges and not be very effective. What you need to use is concrete turbo cup wheel like these here.
Thanks for the info. Yes I knew it’s not exact the same one you listed but seems be the only one I can get from my local store. And I could not wait for days from delivery from Amazon.
Shea,
I appreciate the detailed info from the website. I used Rustoleum concrete patch last year to repair the garage floor crack. However, epoxy contracted before it was completely cured. so now I see shallow groove along the repaired track. In some areas, because the original crack was deep, I have a 1/8 to 1/4″ wide, 1/8 deep epoxy “pouch”. Can I reapply the same product or use the different product? How to prepare the service?
I plan to apply either Epoxy or Polyurea coating to the garage floor after repair is done.
Thank you very much!
Hi Quan. You can use the same product again. If you can get some 120 grit sandpaper on the material to rough up just a bit, that will work. The Rust-Oleum repair product is 100% solids epoxy. It does not shrink. What most likely happened is that the epoxy settled deeper into the crack as it was curing. It’s common for this to happen with deep cracks and sometimes requires a second application.
This is very useful information but I do not have any tools, equipment or expertise in this area. I would like to hire someone to assess and repair a long crack in my garage. How do I find such a person? A handyman may not have the right skill set for this either. Any suggestions about hiring someone? I’m in Riverside, CA. Thanks.
Hi Ruth. What we recommend you do is search “concrete repair ‘your area'” and start making some phone calls. You can also check with garage floor coating companies since they have to do any required concrete repairs first before prepping a floor for a coating.
Hi,
I have a long 1/8″ crack in my detached garage concrete slab and continues on the side of the slab under the service entrance door for about 8″.
Will the PC-Concrete Repair Epoxy (or similar) be thick enough to apply to this vertical crack without falling right out?
Also, any issues with repairing the vertical crack outside before tackling the horizontal crack inside? I would think this order is better to avoid sand spilling out. And is it correct to assume that sand is not necessary in this case?
Additionally, I feel like doing the whole cleaning (lots of stains), repairing (lots of cracks), grinding, and 5+ coatings will take me at least 3 weeks to complete (and probably about $1,000 in materials and tools + rentals). Unfortunately, I think I’m too close to the fall rainy season to get that long of a dry spell. Is there any problem with doing the cleaning and repairs now and then waiting 6-7 months before grinding and coating?
Thanks for hosting this site – I’ve been wanting to lay down an epoxy coating for a while and the information you provide really opens my eyes up to the detailed mechanics and the possibilities!
Hi Dan. The slab isn’t exposed to the outdoors right now waiting for a structure, is it? I ask because you do not want to apply a coating that is going to be in direct sunlight exposed to the elements. Assuming it is not, PC-Concrete Repair Epoxy is not going to work well for vertical cracks since it will tend to slump and not penetrate. Most vertical cracks require applying the repair material via injection. For that small area, we would recommend using Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch Repair. This mixes to more of a putty that you can press into the crack.
It’s not problem doing all your slab prep now, however, you don’t want to be driving on it or getting it too dirty. Providing you don’t, just do a thorough cleaning a few days before you are ready to apply your coating system.
Thanks Shea!
The garage is already in place and has been for a while, but that vertical crack is exposed to the elements. Basically part of the slab is above grade so when we walk out the service entrance, we take a step down. Will the Rust-Oleum still work in this case?
Actually, I was planning on using the garage as normal until late spring. How much trouble will that cause me come spring, i.e. should I just wait till spring to do it all at once? I was just hoping to seal up all the cracks before winter.
Yes, the Rust-Oleum Concrete Repair will work fine for that. The problem with prepping the entire slab this far in advance is that you will fairly contaminate all the clean pores on the surface during that period. The entire surface is opened up to what ever is brought into the garage from outside. Our suggestion would be to do all your crack repairs now before winter. Don’t worry about grinding them flush until it’s time to grind the slab.
Hello!
I used a polyurethane sealant, Sika Crack Flex Sealant, to fill in some holes in my garage floor. We’re planning on putting the Rustoleum Rocksolid on the floors. However, I believe I might have made a mistake. Since this caulk is polyurethane I thought it would be okay for our garage before we put in the rock solid. Was this a mistake? Thank you.
Hi Tami. Yes, unfortunately it was a mistake. SikaFlex is a flexible sealant and not a crack repair product. It is too soft for a coating, it can’t be sanded flush, and it won’t allow coatings to adhere very well. You need to dig out the SikaFlex and use a 100% solids epoxy or polyurea crack repair product.
Good afternoon, Shea,
Thank you in advance. I have a 1960s era (I guess) slab that’s pretty badly pitted, but only has a couple of cracks, and overall seems pretty good. The biggest issue is one hole where it looks like an earlier attempted repair basically disintegrated. I haven’t dug into it too deeply yet, but it’s about 12″ in diameter, full of broken up cement, and at least 2″ deep. After reading the comments, it looks like Quikrete Polymer Modified Structural Repair is the correct material to fill the hole, after digging out the loose stuff and chiseling/grinding, and then use the other products you’ve recommended to manage the couple of cracks and the pits. None of the pits are more than 1/4 inch, one crack is pretty wide – about 1/2 inch wide for a few feet, the two others are small. Given it’s 60 years old, I think it’s now pretty stable. Any warning signs in that for you?
One other weird thing. The slab is level in the garage, and then for about six inches outside the garage. Then there is a metal bar where it transitions to the driveway, which slopes downward pretty steeply for about 6 inches, then less steeply to the alley. That outside six inches gets rain, which then runs under the garage door gasket and into the garage – because there’s no slope at all. Any suggestions on that? Can I ignore it, or do I need to do something before adding an epoxy in the garage? I was planning on just stopping the epoxy under the midpoint of the garage door. I was hoping that the thickness of the epoxy, topcoat, etc. might help a bit with the incoming water.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Hi Scott. I don’t see any warning signs for a slab that old if the cracks are not growing. It should be very stable. One tip though is to always repair cracks first before applying any type of polymer-modified cement products over them. If you don’t, the cracks have a tendency to reformat right through the patch.
If you want to prevent water from creeping in under the garage door, you might want to install a garage door floor seal after applying the epoxy. It can create the perfect boundary between the epoxy and concrete outside. The raised strip should block any water from coming inside.
Hello, What a great, informative website! I’m looking for a solution to repair the raveling of saw cut contraction joints. 6 month old garage mono-poured slab/stem/footing, was saw cut a few hours after the finishers were done. Contraction joints all are doing their job, but the raveled saw cuts are pretty ragged. Any advice on cleaning them up? At this time, I have not decided if or when I‘ll top coat the floor.
Ouch. Cutting saw cuts as soon as you can is good, but if the wrong blade is used for real green concrete or if it’s cut too soon raveling can happen. Raveling is hard to repair since any material added will stand out more than the raveling. However, what is commonly done is to change the look of the cut. This can be done with a concrete crack chasing wheel if your raveling is not too wide. The wheels run up to 1/2″ wide. The wheel will create a “V” shaped look to the top of the cut and clean up the jagged edges that raveling produces. We recommend setting up some type of guide or fence to keep a real straight line going. If you apply a coating later, you can always fill the joints first with the proper material and then grind them flush with the concrete for a seamless look.