One of the primary concerns about epoxy flooring or any other coating for the garage, is how slippery it may be when wet and what can be done in terms of an anti-slip additive to create a non-skid surface. Is it even necessary at all? The topic can get confusing with manufacturers recommending a wide variety of additives from sand, to aluminum oxide, or a small polymer based grit like Shark Grip.
Because resinous garage floor coatings such as epoxy, polyurethane and polyurea are non-porous, the surface created can be very smooth, almost like glass in some cases. While this type of surface is fine when dry, it can become as slippery as an ice rink sometimes with the introduction of water, mud, oils, or snow. So let’s try to determine if you need a non-slip additive in the first place and then take a look at what type is best for your epoxy floor and how to use it.
Do you need an epoxy non-slip additive?
When deciding whether or not you need a non-slip additive for your garage floor coating, one of the first things to take into consideration is the climate in which you live. If your garage will see an abundance of water from wet cars or melting snow, then a non-skid floor is worth considering. Snow and ice in particular doesn’t mix well with coated garage floors. If you live in a more arid part of the country it may not even be necessary.
Another consideration is how you plan on using the floor. If you are always involved with projects that can involve spilled fluids such as oil, anti-freeze, chemicals, or etc. that can create a slip fall hazard, then an anti-slip additive would help. Then again, there is nothing like cleaning up spills immediately that will alleviate slip fall accidents and not require a non-skid surface.
The type of floor coating system that you install can be a factor as well. If you choose a floor without paint chips or some other media such as quartz, then you will have a very smooth surface which is the most conducive to being slippery when wet. However, a floor with a ¾ to full color chip application will create a slightly irregular texture when top coated with polyurethane or a thinned epoxy or polyurea coating. This irregular texture can provide additional grip in a wet environment that a smooth floor will not.
Two little known facts about newly coated garage floors have contributed to some unwarranted claims about epoxy and other coatings being slippery as well. The first fact is that the coating will develop a static charge during the application and curing process that will last a few days or so. This charge will draw all the fine dust particles out of the air to collect on the floor and make it slippery. This charge will dissipate after a while however and the slippery dust problem will go away.
The second unknown fact is that a brand new floor coating will be extremely smooth (like glass) after the initial installation which can make it slippery when wet. Once the floor develops some traffic, microscopic scratches on the surface will appear (these are not visible in most cases) and increase the grip of the floor tremendously.
If you don’t want to wait for traffic and normal use to create these microscopic scratches, then you can always lightly scuff it with a pink or white buffing pad which will create a better grip. This will slightly remove some of the gloss of the floor, but it will still remain highly light reflective and be glossier than a matte finish.
Non-slip additives for coated garage floors
The most recommended additive to create a non-slip surface for epoxy, garage floor paint, and other garage floor coatings is ground polymer grit such as Shark Grip
. This grit consists of very small micronized polymer beads that are soft to the feet and skin. It becomes translucent when added to a coating and will create very small bumps for grip when mixed into the final top coat of your floor.
Because the grit from products such as Shark Grip is so small, it works well with a thin floor coating such as polyurethane. It also works well with a thinner water based epoxy like Rust-Oleum and Quikrete products which you can get from home improvement centers.
If your final top coat is thicker, such as 100% solids epoxy or a polyurea product, then you will need to go with slightly larger polymer grit. The micronized grit like that of Shark Grip and similar products is too small for the thicker coatings and has a tendency to sink below the surface and not be effective. You will want to use a grit size with a mesh between 30 and 60 (smaller numbers are larger in size) to achieve good results. You can find an example of that here from Legacy Industrial.
Another material that creates an excellent non-skid surface for epoxy coatings is an aluminum oxide additive. This is a more aggressive grit that is suspended in the final top coat like polymer grit. It works well in industrial type settings where maximum grip is desired or where extremely slippery conditions exist.
Despite claims from some companies however, this type of non-slip additive is not the most friendly to bare feet and skin. It’s aggressive nature can also create problems with catching mop strings and dirt when cleaning the floor. While it works well as a non-slip additive, it can be more than what most people want for a garage environment. It’s not the best floor surface either for young children that may trip and skin themselves on the floor.
Finally there is the use of fine silica sand. This works best when dispersed on top of the coat prior to the final top coat. The final top coat is then applied over the sand to create the bumpy surface required. While this type of non-skid will work, it’s best when used with a colored top coat because the sand is visible with a clear coat.
Some drawbacks to sand is that it can be too aggressive for a garage environment like aluminum oxide. Some say that the surface is similar to fine sandpaper and that it makes it harder to mop. It also has a tendency to break down over time and cause small cracks and pockets in the surface of the top coat as it wears.
How to apply non-slip additives
When installing a garage floor coating yourself, the generally accepted method to applying a non-slip additive such as polymer grit or aluminum oxide is to mix it into the final top coat prior to rolling it onto the floor. 3 to 4 ounces per gallon of epoxy or other coating is the recommended ratio. Any more than that will introduce clumping of the material and is not a desirable affect for the finish of the floor.
When applying it to 100% solids epoxy or polyurea, it’s best to mix it into the final top coat first and then pour the contents in ribbons across the floor. You can then roll and back roll the coating as usual. The non-slip grit will tend to disperse itself evenly across the surface of the floor this way.
If you are applying a polyurethane top coat or a thinner water based epoxy kit, then you will be working by rolling the contents out of a paint tray. It’s best to mix the additive into the coating then pour it into your tray. It’s important to note that while these additives do fairly well at staying suspended in the mix for a short while, they will sink to the bottom and should be remixed each time before pouring the contents into the tray.
Other methods involve sprinkling the additive on top of the coating or base coat before applying the final top coat or just tossing the non-slip additive on top of the final top coat. The problem with this is that you can get poor distribution of the non-slip aggregate or when applied to the top of the final coat, it can pull away with wear and create pockets in the surface that collect dirt.
Out of the different methods to achieve an anti-slip surface for garage floor coatings, our favorite is the mixing of polymer grit into the final top coat. It makes for the softest feel that won’t scratch your back up if working under a car or walking in your bare feet. Plus, it’s the least visible of the anti-slip additives, especially when applied to a floor with color chips.
Thanks for all the information. I have purchased the Valspar non-skid additive. There is no indication on the package or MSDS whether it is a polymer or aluminum oxide. Is there a way to confirm visually?
Your welcome Peter. We checked and couldn’t tell as well but from what we remember it’s a micronized polymer aggregate similar to SharkGrip. If it’s aluminum oxide it would say so on the package.
Wuld you please provide your recommendation for a polyurethane top coat product to be applied over a 100% solids epoxy.
Additionally, would you please recommend a cleaner for a 3 yer-old Valspar coating with chips in preparation for a polyurethane top coat.
Thank you.
Hi Ken. The polyurethane products from both Legacy Industrial and EpoxyMaster are excellent. We recommend giving them a call and telling them about your project. That way they can tell you which product they have that is best for your application.
For prepping an existing coating, you will need to rough up the finish with 150 grit sandpaper or use a 100 grit sanding screen on a floor maintainer (quickest method). This cleans up the surface at the same time. The idea is rough up and degloss the coating so that the top coat will grip and adhere. Vacuum afterwards and then wipe down with denatured alcohol on a rag or towel to get all the loose dust (important!). Keep in mind that you will loose some color chips in the process. If you are doing two coats of clear you can always throw more chips in the first coat. They will blend right in.
I already coated my garage floor (with an epoxy coating from Lowe’s). It turned out great, however I now wish I had added a nonskid product as the floor is very slippery when wet. Do you have a recommendation on how to apply a nonskid product now, or how to rough up the surface? THANK YOU!
Hello Rey. What you need to do is apply another coat with the anti-slip mixed in. A clear coat is the best bet, particularly if you added color flakes to the coating. You will need to rough up the surface with some 100 grit sandpaper first to degloss the floor and provide bite for the new coat. If you just try to rough up the surface to add grip instead of applying another coat with the anti-slip, you will have a dull looking, deglossed finish that is harder to clean.
Hi are there non slip ratings for each of these finishes?
No, there isn’t Ryan. How slip resistant it is depends on how much is applied, the size of the granules, and the thickness of the coating.
I am wanting to do a metallic finish floor coating (most likely a Rustoleum RockSolid Metallic coating) in my garage, but I am worried about the surface becoming slippery with oil, antifreeze, etc., as I spend a fair amount of time working on my cars. What application procedure would you recommend? Applying the metallic coating, let it cure, then apply a clear top coat with the Shark Grip additive? Or could I get away with adding the Shark Grip directly to the metallic coating and accomplish it in one step? Thanks!
Hello John. You could add Shark Grip to the metallic coat and be done with it if you like. However, since you will be doing a lot of work on vehicles, a coat of clear with the Shark Grip added will make your floor more durable.
Hello, is there any information on how to successfully apply any non-skid additives to paints, or non-skid tapes to ZincAlume Coated metal roofing. I am using roofing pieces on a project where there will be outdoor pedestrian use. Thank you
Many large paint vendors carry a polymer grip additive that is similar to SharkGrip Wes. Just ask about it. They are usually available from a fine mesh to coarse. You just mix it into the paint before rolling it on.
Seal-krete epoxy seal on a wooden enclosed 6×12 trailer floor? The container bought at Lowe’s has a 3x more durable label on it. The wood is just 3/4 inch untreated plywood. Or is there a better flooring choice.
It all depends on how the trailer will be used Tom. The Seal-Krete is a good paint, but it’s not as durable as a true epoxy coating. We would recommend two coats.
Shea,
When adding Shark Grip to a two part urethane clear coat (such as Devthane 379) is it better to mix the A and B together first before adding the Shark Grip? Or can the Shark Grip be added to the A part first, before adding the hardener? Also, is Shark Grip measured by weight or volume? I’ve read conflicting information. I’ve thought about buying a larger bottle and measuring it out for each individual gallon of urethane , since doing it this way is considerably less expensive.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Hello Gareth. Anti-slip granules are usually measured by volume, not weight. Pour the A and B into the bucket first followed by the Shark Grip and then mix it all together. As a tip, pour the Part B hardener in before the sticky Part A resin. If the Part A resin is poured in first, it tends to stick more to the sides of the bucket when mixing. The Part B hardener will coat the sides first making mixing and separation from the bucket easier. The same goes for epoxy. If working out of a paint tray with polyurethane, don’t pour too much into the tray or the granules will tend to settle towards the bottom of the tray since it will take longer to use up the contents. Before pouring more into the tray, gently mix the bucket to disperse the granules that have settled to the bottom.
Hello,
I am considering a garage epoxy for the floor of a restaurant. What is the wear durability on a high traffic floor?
Hello David. The term “garage epoxy” is very broad. If you are thinking about garage floor epoxy kits from a local home improvement center, then no, they will not suffice for a restaurant. However, commercial epoxy systems, polyurethane, and polyurea products sold by vendors who specialize in concrete coatings for garages, warehouses, manufacturing, and restaurants will be more than capable of handling the traffic of a restaurant. These type of coatings are designed for car traffic and are used all the time in the restaurant business. We highly recommend giving them a call and tell them about your project. They are the ones that are most qualified to provide you with the proper product.
I have just recently used the Rustoleum Rock Solid metallic floor covering on my garage floor and it looks great. My wife thinks that the floor is too slippery and I am wondering if I can put some type of clear coat with an anit-skid additive on top of the floor? If so, can you recommend one? Thanks Scott
RockSolid has a clear version of their polycuramine, Scott. They sell the anti-slip additive as well. This video here demonstrates how it is applied. If you are inside the 7 day recoat window you can apply it without any needed prep other than making sure the floor is clean. If you are outside that window, you will need to degloss the surface by roughing it up with 150 grit sandpaper first.
Keep in mind that adding a clear coat with the anti-slip is going to tone down the glossy look. Some people are not aware of this. Also, if you are outside the recoat window, you may want to wait a little while to see how the coating responds to traffic. All new coatings can feel a bit slippery when brand new because the surface is like glass. They become less slippery, however, from the microscopic scratches acquired from regular use.
hi Shea. i am planning to install 3D poster with epoxy top coat to my home. it look like glassy.in kitchen some time oil and water will fall down . in bath room also water will fall down regularly.is it make any problem without anti slippers. is it necessary to use. what type of precautions should i follow.
and more over suggest good anti slipper, if i require .
If you use an anti-slip additive, Mahi, it will cloud the glassy look. That is a something you have to consider when installing a coating over a 3D poster. The coating will not be slippery when dry without an anti-slip additive, but it will be very slippery when wet.
We just had the concrete replaced around our pool and now it is very slippery when wet. It has 2 coats of Eagle Acrylic Sealer on it. Would using an anti slip additive in another coat of sealer help? What would be the best?
Yes it would help Donna. Most coatings that are applied around swimming pools use an anti-slip additive of some type. If you don’t, it will be very slippery. You will want to use the type of additive that uses polymer beads, such as SharkGrip. This type of additive is much easier on bare feet. Do not use aluminum oxide anti-slip. It will be too rough and sharp for bare feet.
I had a contractor put a coat of epoxy on the garage floor with paint chips. He also put a clear coat on top with shark bite. It has dried very uneven with a lot of roller marks. He did not mix the shark bite he hand tossed it unto the floor. That may be the problem. Can he put another coat on top to smooth it out and get rid of the uneven look.
Yes, he can Rich. It will require roughing up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper first. Make sure he back rolls at 90 degrees from initial rolling direction in order to help avoid roller marks. Not pressing down hard on the roller helps as well.
I am planning on using one of the single coat polyurea type products you have described. This is for a new three car garage and am wondering if I really need to etch or scrape the new concrete? Must all the gap lines all be filled as well?
Thank you,
Tony
Hi Tony. New or old, all concrete must be properly prepped to obtain the correct surface profile. This is accomplished through either grinding or acid etching. This process opens the pores of the concrete for better penetration of the coating as well as provide for a mechanical bite to the concrete. 90% of all coating failures are from poor concrete prep. It’s the most important part of the process. You don’t need to fill the contraction joints (assuming this is what you meant by “gap lines”).
My garage floor has Rustoleum epoxy coating on it with chips. It is very slippery when wet. Any suggestions to fixing it ? A clear coat with anti slip additive ?taking it up and starting over?
Hi Mark. You have the right idea about applying a clear coat with the anti-slip additive mixed in. You will need to degloss the current coating by roughing it up with 120 grit sandpaper before applying the clear coat. This will provide a mechanical bite for the clear. You may lose a few color flakes in the process, but if they are adhered well it should not be much to worry about.
Hello, we just recently coated our floors with epoxy 100 and urethane 100 from AFP, our dealer recommended we use an aluminum oxide for the urethane coat to help in our auto repair shop setting but we noticed that it was a bit too abrasive for our liking. If we wanted to apply a second coat of urethane to help fill the space, what type of sanding technique would you recommend to avoid the second layer of urethane to stick? Also, if we decide not to go with the second coat, what’s the best method for cleaning the heavily abrasive floor, noticed it was tearing up mop heads. Thanks!
Hello Michael. Yes, it sounds like the media used for the anti-slip was a bit too large or too rough. Was aluminum oxide used? A Malish brush (stiff nylon brush) on a floor maintainer would make quick work of deglossing and roughing up the surface enough to apply another coat of polyurethane. It would get the low lying areas between the granules much better than sandpaper as well. The extra coat will make a big difference in taming down the roughness. Rough floors are hard to clean. Sometimes a deck brush and squeegee are the best option in those circumstances instead of a mop.
We had a guy do a coating on our garage floor to prevent slipping from snow and water. He added silica sand to the coating and did a pretty good job. I watched him and he did most of what the other comments say on how to correctly apply the coating, such as cleaning, sanding, etc. Most of the garage floor feels “rough” which is what we needed, but a 12″ area where the garage door closes (the “threshhold” of the garage) is incredibly slippery when wet with snow. This person is no longer available to correct his work and we will have to do it ourselves. Like I said, 90% of the garage is fine, but the area that is slippery is still very dangerous. What should we do?
Hi Madelyn. Assuming the slippery part is coated as well, it will require that you rough up that area of the coating with 120 grit sandpaper and then apply more of the same coating with the silica sand added in. Keep in mind that coatings do not blend like paint does when you touch up a wall, for example. The area of the new coating that overlaps the original coating will stand out.
I have question: My garage floor is wood and it has a open basement under it. I live in NH and it leaks in the winter, can your system work on wood and will it be water prove? Thank you for your attention with this matter.
John Leahy
Hello John. Garage floor coatings are made specifically for concrete. They don’t have the flex required for wood floors nor will they bridge the gaps very well.
I am looking to epoxy my garage floor but the previous owner had placed a fairly durable paint down. What is the best way to prep the floor prior to using something like Rock Solid. Thanks again, great site!
Hello John. If it were us, we would grind the surface to remove the old paint and prep the concrete at the same time. Your coating is only as good as what it is adhered to. If the old paint peels or is susceptible to hot tire pick up, then the new coating will as well. If you want to apply it to the paint, you will need to rough up the surface first with 150 grit sandpaper.
First let me say I am finding your articles very helpful as I prepare for my garage floor project.
I believe my final top coat is going to be the newer single part polyurea that you have spoken very highly of in a very recent article. I have two questions
1) I just want to confirm that I read your article correctly and, since I don’t want something two harsh, should use a polymer with a grit size between 30 and 60.
2) If the answer to questions 1 is yes, do you have a link to where I might obtain this product? The current link you provided is broken.
Thanks.
Jeff
Hi Jeff. Thanks for pointing out the broken link. We found the new link Legacy Industrial has and fixed it. You can also give them a call and tell them what you want to accomplish. They will recommend the best grit for your requirements. You are correct about not wanting something too harsh. It makes the coating more difficult to clean and can be harsh on bare feet (toddlers and kids) as well as stocking feet.
I have a basement floor that looks as though it may have been painted- but it may be acid-washed. The texture is not smooth and shiny- it’s somewhat rough. Would I need to grind it down for an epoxy floor to bond with it?
Would you suggest doing a very small sample in an inconspicuous area?
Hello Kathie. Does the concrete readily absorb water? If there is some type of coating on the surface and you are not sure what it is, then yes, you should grind it first before applying epoxy. Since it is a basement, we recommend doing a moisture test as well.
I am flooring out an old, non-operational reefer (refrigerated container). The subfloor is very solid aluminium slats (originally for air circulation). I am using 18mm OSB3. I want to seal it with a suitable paint/coating.It must be able to withstand occasional moisture and be slip resistant.
What would you reccommend?
Hello Conor. Though most concrete coatings are not warrantied for use on wood, they all adhere fine if you rough up the surface with 60 grit sandpaper. Do not use epoxy. Epoxy is very hard and does not flex. It will crack if the floor flexes. Instead you will want to use a polyurea or special polyurethane coating as these types do flex. Also most coatings will not bridge gaps in wood, so will need to make sure they are tight or sealed properly if you want a seamless look.
One product that people have used with good success on wood trailer floors and sheds is Rust Bullet. It will take a minimum of three coats as the first one will be absorbed quite a bit by the wood. Another would be a single-part polyurea like these here. What ever coating you decided on, you will need to add anti-slip media into the final coat for slip resistance.