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Trying to figure out the best garage floor epoxy coating system for your garage as well as your budget isn’t always easy. With so many epoxy products, manufacturers, and commercial installers to choose from, it can be frustrating and somewhat overwhelming if you don’t know exactly what you want or how an epoxy coating system works.
The easiest way to tackle this problem is to break it down into the different types of epoxy products available and explain how they are installed together as systems. You can choose to purchase and install the epoxy yourself or hire a garage floor coating contractor with their own products. Either way, our goal here is to help eliminate the confusion about epoxy and to educate you on the different options available in order to choose the best epoxy for you.
What you don’t want to be fooled by are the many ignorant epoxy reviews that you can find online. These are usually titled as “The Top 10 Epoxy Garage Floor Coatings” or something similar. These are articles written by people who have little to any knowledge of concrete coatings in general.
There are many reputable brands of epoxy available. What it comes down to when determining the best coating for your garage floor is, what type of epoxy is it and how is it used as part of a system? So please read on to learn what constitutes your basic epoxy products and systems all the way to the best that you can install for your garage floor.
Waterborne Epoxy Paint
Water based epoxy is easy to apply and has a longer pot life that reduces the worry of getting it applied as quickly as other epoxy products require. It’s almost as easy to apply as paint and is why it’s advertised as epoxy paint. Because of this, it is the favorite type that companies like to market to the DIY crowd.
Your first choice is the “do it yourself” epoxy paint kits by brands such as RustOleum or Quikrete for example. They can be purchased from your local home improvement center or hardware store for anywhere from $50 to $70 depending on brand and are available in either gray or tan.
These kits are designed as a single coat system with roughly 50% solids content of epoxy and a coverage rate of around 250 square feet. They roll on easy and cure to a thin coat of approximately 3 mils with a matte to semi-gloss finish.
Though inexpensive, this is the least durable of epoxy to apply. They are based on older formulations and are not the best value for your dollar. Their resistance to stains and chemicals are not as good as other types of garage floor epoxy and they are susceptible to hot tire lift.
If you like the easier application requirements of water based epoxy, you can increase the durability and protection with a more professional multi-coat kit that offers a second coat of epoxy clear as a top coat. This also doubles the coating thickness from 3 mils to 6 mils. Some brands such as The Original Color Chips offer kits such as these. They are a better value for the money with more current epoxy formulations and pricing starting around $175.
High Solids Epoxy
The next step up is the commercial grade epoxy products. They have the best resistance to stains, chemicals, and abrasion. They also have high solids content with the best being 100% solids epoxy.
The 100% solids single coat system is much thicker and will cure to approximately 10 mils or more depending on the brand. In fact, a single coat of 100% solids epoxy is more durable than two coats of a typical water based product. High solids epoxy make for a great color base coat to a multi-coat system due to their high build and are available in many choices of color options as well.
Cost for these commercial grade products vary depending on the solids content and brand. Expect to pay a minimum of $115 for clear epoxy only that will cover 250 square feet. The price goes up from there for standard colors and custom tints. For an average price of $180, many of these kits include the tools required to apply them plus a bag of colored acrylic paint flakes or chips to apply to the floor as well.
Though this type of epoxy is a much better value, it is not as DIY friendly as water based epoxy. It has a much thicker viscosity and needs to be back rolled when applied. The pot life is shorter as well, requiring that it be applied to the garage floor within 30 – 40 minutes after mixing.
Clear Epoxy or Polyurethane Top Coats
To improve upon the single coat 100% solids epoxy, the next step is to add a coat or two of clear epoxy or polyurethane. This is referred to as the top coat. This clear coat system adds not only durability and thickness, but is also what gives your floor that deep gloss and shine.
If adding a topcoat, you also have the option of adding additional paint chips to your base coat. They can be sprinkled on sparingly or they can be applied to full refusal. Full refusal is the process of throwing on chips until they don’t stick anymore.
There are two reasons you may want to do a full refusal broadcast. The first is that it will give the floor some texture, increase thickness for durability, and help to produce an anti-slip surface. The second reason is pure cosmetics. With the multitude of different colored chip combinations to choose from, you can give your garage floor any custom look that you like.
Best Garage Floor Epoxy Coating System
The best coating that you can apply to your garage floor will be a premium multi-coat epoxy system. This will consist of a primer coat, 100% solids basecoat, acrylic colored paint chips if you desire, and one or two topcoats of clear epoxy or polyurethane. It’s not uncommon for such a floor to be between 30 and 40 mils in thickness. These type of floor systems can last 15-20 years or more.
Any premium epoxy system will involve a primer. Most primers will be anywhere from 50% to 70% solids content which will make for a thinner coat and consistency. There are many reasons for using a primer. The thinner consistency allows for the epoxy to seep deeper into the pores of the concrete to create a better bond. It also creates better adhesion for your basecoat and helps to prevent pinholes and bubbles which are caused from out gassing of the concrete.
Though this epoxy system is the most expensive of garage flooring options, this floor coating will give you the best return for your dollar. Cost varies depending on the size of your garage. Expect a minimum cost of $850 in materials for an epoxy primer, color base coat, acrylic color flakes, and clear top coat for an average sized 2-car garage if installing it yourself. Garage flooring contractors start around $4.50 a square foot for a similar system and go up in price from there.
Final notes
If you are going to apply an epoxy coating yourself you can create any one of the above combinations. Just remember when looking at different brands, compare both the coverage rate and solids content along with the price. If product A covers 250 square feet per container and product B covers 300 square feet per container, you are much better off going with product B if you have a 540 square foot garage. Do not attempt to stretch it out or you are destined to receive poor results.
Another factor to consider is the supplies that come with these kits. Some brands include rollers, mixing paddles, spiked shoes, paint brushes and other supplies in their price. Lastly is checking to see if they offer technical support. If this is your first time at applying a good quality epoxy and you want to make sure all your questions are answered, a manufacturer with good customer service is worth every penny.
If you are looking into hiring a contractor to install an epoxy coating for your garage floor, make sure to ask how many coats they use and what each coat does. Many times flooring contractors will substitute lessor quality epoxy or less coats in order to compete in price.
So remember when choosing the best epoxy coating for your garage floor and budget is to make sure you have enough to cover your floor. Multiple coats will increase the wear and durability of the floor and always go with a higher solids content if you can afford it. The dollar cost average over time for the floor is much better if you do. And finally, if applying the floor coating yourself, choose an epoxy manufacturer with good customer service to insure a good experience and a quality floor.
Can I put a clear polyurethane with UV inhibitors over Rust-Oleum Rock Solid polycuramine system. Rust-Oleum clear coating does not have Uv inhibitors and I am having to redcoat my garage because their clear coat has yellowed badly. If this is possible could you pleas recommend a polyurethane product with UV inhibitors.
Thank You
Hi Scott. Just to avoid confusion, polyurethane concrete coatings are inherently U.V. stable and will not yellow (amber) at all due to their chemical makeup. They do not have U.V. inhibitors added. U.V. inhibitors are typically added to high solids epoxy to help slow down the ambering process when exposed to strong U.V. light, but it does not prevent it. Also, while a clear polyurethane or polyurea topcoat will not amber, it will not prevent the colored polycuramine (or epoxy) from ambering underneath – though it will slow the process down since the strength of the U.V. light is diminished somewhat from passing through the clear coat.
Many of our sponsors offer high performance polyurethane concrete coatings. Here is a good example. We don’t recommend using WB (water-based) polyurethane for garage floors. Are you removing the clear coat down to the color coat via sanding or are you starting over with a new color coat?
Thank you very much for your quick and very helpful response. My intention is to re coat my 10 year old rustoleum epoxy /clear coat with the newer Rustoleum Rocksolid polycurmine system. After contacting Rustoleum technical support I was unhappy to learn that the additional clear coat that they offer has no UV properties. Short of completely grinding off my existing epoxy coating I am looking for my best option of a product that can go over my existing floor. My hours of homework has led me to the Rocksolid product but I am open to suggestions of other products that can go over an existing coating and be UV stable. If I go with the Rocksolid product I am looking for a clear top coat that is compatible with Rocksolid and is UV stable. Thanks.
You can apply a polyurethane coating over RockSolid if that is the color base coat you choose to go with. Most coatings will achieve a chemical bond to each other when applied within the proper recoat window, despite the fact that an epoxy may be from from brand A and the clear coat from brand B. However, manufacturer’s typically will not warranty for defects or problems with materials if this is done. Polycuramine is a unique blend of polyurethane, epoxy, and polyurea. A polyurethane coating should adhere well if applied within 24 hours of the color coat. However, we do not know of anyone who has done this. I’m sure someone has, but it has not come to our attention. So in essence, your floor would be a test of this general practice. The other option would be to let the color coat cure for a few days and then rough it up with 120 grit sandpaper or a with a green scrub pad on a floor maintainer. This will achieve a mechanical bond in which there will not be any issues. The problem with this method is that you will loose some of your color flakes in the process (assuming you tossed them into the color coat).
The other option you have is to choose a complete coating system that is U.V. stable. Single-part polyurea is an excellent example. You can read about it here. Removal of your old coating is recommended before you go this route since this type of coating is much higher quality and will adhere to bare concrete much better than the Rust-Oleum epoxy. However, if your old coating has not peeled at all and you are sure it is sound, you can prep your old coating properly and apply the polyurea over it.
Hi Scott,
Did you end up using a polyurethane from a different manufacturer over your rocksolid polycuramine? I was considering doing the same thing as a way of keeping cost down and having a stronger top coat but am apprehensive about mixing manufacturers.
Hi,
I am looking to hire a contractor to put epoxy down on my floor. I don’t want to trust him fully and I want buy the materials and let him to the work . Can u please breakdown for me what I need to by and how many coats of each I should tell him to do etc? My goal is to seal my concrete floor properly ( to help prevent cracks) and to keep floor from being dusty( my kids walk in and out of it into my house and track dust all over. I have a 20×20 garage and would like to be in the $250 range max for materials
Hello Carl. Most professional floor coating contractors and garage floor coating companies use their own commercial quality product and will not apply something provided for them. Their reputation rides on the quality of the coatings. This article here talks about hiring contractors. Unfortunately, your budget wouldn’t cover the cost of the materials that the professionals use. I would be wary of anyone willing to do an install with product provided. Typically it’s only painters and handyman that will do that and from our experience, most don’t know what they are doing. We get more emails from people asking how to fix their floor coating after hiring someone to apply something they purchased themselves.
In terms of product choice, your budget severely limits your choices for the square footage. If you want the least chance of hot tire pickup, we would recommend the Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Professional garage floor coating kits. You would need two kits minimum for one coat. This will put you at the edge of your budget, not including supplies. Your only choice after that is the lower quality water-based version of the same kit. It costs less, but you still would not have enough in your budget to apply a clear coat.
I am hiring a handy man , because I can’t find legit guy in my area. SO lets say I raised the budget to ensure the job is done the right way and with the right materials and product. What should I purchase and how should it be done so I can explain to him exactly what I expect him to do ? Thank you
The first thing to do is make sure that the person pays close attention to the application instructions and does not take short cuts. It would be wise for you to follow along so that you know what is required. Concrete prep is the most critical aspect of applying coatings and people who don’t know any better want to take short cuts because it’s the part that requires the most work. The type of product I would recommend would be a single-part polyurea. We have an article here about them, including links to vendors who sell it. It’s a much better product and is actually the easiest to apply with less risk of messing things up. It does require acid etching. If the budget is tight, I would just stay with a color coat and don’t do the clear coat. If you can afford the clear coat, then that would be even better. This type of product will last 10 years or more and meet all the requirements on your list.
So I had guy come in and he put down a water based epoxy with two coats and the clear coat . He used a kit. I noticed after day that clear coat had some open circles on it and when I moved the fridge back into the garage it basically cut through the epoxy is some spots. I waited 124 hours between coats in 75 degree water and then waited 12 hours after clear coat before I walked on it . DO I need to strip out entire floor and redo it is there way to spot repair ? I would send photos but down see a way to do that . Thanks in advance
Hello Carl. What product was it exactly? Unless it was RockSolid, 124 hours is too long to wait between coats. The open circles sound like a condition called fisheyes. This is when the epoxy repells from a spot on the floor. When that happens, it’s usually due to some sort of contamination on the surface that the epoxy reacts to. If the color coat is good, you can usually sand the clear coat and reapply a new clear coat. You can send images to us at [email protected]
Can I put concrete paint down as the 1st coasting or a primer then apply Rust-Oleum Epoxy over the paint or primer?
Hi Justin. No, you can’t do that. Paint and epoxy are not chemically compatible. This article explains the differences. In addition, paint does not provide the same tenacious bond to concrete that epoxy does. It’s one of the many attributes of epoxy on concrete that makes it superior to paint. Your coating is only as good as what it is attached to, so you want the epoxy bonded to concrete and not paint.
I have been seeing epoxy paint being used inside homes on floors with a marbelling effect that is this a good idea and do you have information on that?
Hello Nancy. Most of the marbling effect is accomplished with metallic epoxy coatings. It allows for a multitude of finishes with none looking exactly the same. This video here is an example of a marbled look. RockSolid even has their own version here. While these type of coatings can do very well in the home, they do present their own drawbacks in the garage. There are two issues that people complain about. The first is dust. Because most of these colors are darker and glossy in nature, they tend to show every bit of dust, including dusty tire prints and foot prints. This is why traditional garage floors are done in lighter colors. The other issue is that the extreme glossy look with the darker colors tend show all the little scratches that lighter colors with color flakes tend to hide or camouflage. You just have decide if these are issues you are willing to deal with.
I heard that epoxy coating could cover the bad odor ( like cat urine odor) ,
( please note that the floor has been treated but still has some kind of odor but not as strong as it was before ) Please advise.
If yes, which kind of epoxy coating will be the choice?
Hi Vanessa. We cover that entire topic, including coatings, in this article about odor removal. There is a specific set of steps to follow in order to be successful in removing pet urine odor from concrete.
I’m a one person DIY and have a 2 1/2 garage. Is it ok to complete the coating in two phases with the first phase being the first two stalls and then come back and complete the 1/2 stall. I would do the prep if I do the for the complete garage but then coat in two separate phases. Would this workout?
Hi Denny. As long as you have a contraction joint to use as a natural border between coatings you will be fine splitting the job that way. Coatings do not blend well when they overlap like paint does on a wall. The joint makes for a nice divider. If you are doing a 2-part color coating, we recommend that you mix all the colored resin together first to ensure color uniformity. Just pay attention to the amounts of each kit so that you can mix each kit appropriately. This article explains more on how to do that.
Excellent – thank you!
What product should I use on painted concrete? It’s not a garage but it is a high traffic room. I really don’t want to sand.
Hi Tracy. What is it that you are trying to accomplish? Paint is different than a true coating and not designed to have anything else applied over it – including coatings. If you still want to apply a coating over paint, it needs to be water-based (solvent-based will soften paint) and you need to prep the surface via sanding with 120 grit sandpaper or the coating will not stick.
Thank you for the great and very helpful articles. I would like to know what are the best brands should I use for the DIY hybrid garage floor coating system and where to get them:
1. Epoxy primer
2. High solids epoxy color coat
3. High-performance polyurethane or polyurea top coat
I have a 2 car-garage ~400 SF , about 20 years old. How many gallons/kits of each primer/coat should I get?
Hi Tony. The best type to get is not necessarily based on brands. Here are some examples of excellent high solids epoxy kits that our sponsors sell in kit form. Sometimes it’s a matter of who has the best price going at the time. Some of theses kits include the epoxy primer and high solids color coat and then you select the clear top coat. Some include everything. Coverage rates are stated for the kits.
Garage Flooring LLC
ArmorPoxy
Legacy Industrial
ArmorGarage
Thank you Shea
I grind the floor using the rental tool from Home Depo. However, the floor does not seem to absorb much from the water test. Maybe I did not grinded down deep enough. Should I acid etch the floor to make sure before apply the coatings?
Hi Tony. If the concrete has been properly ground, a few drops of water should make the concrete immediately turn darker and the water should be completely absorbed in less than minute. If it’s not doing either of those things then you need to either re-grind or acid etch and then test again after the floor has dried.
Thanks for all the helpful articles. I bought a RustOleum Epoxyshield Kit but am starting to second guess on whether I should by a higher grade 100% solid epoxy coat. Do you think it’s possible to use the Rustoleum Epoxyshield as a primer coat and then cover that with a higher grade epoxy? If not do you think I’d be safe using (2) coats of the Rustoleum Epoxyshield with a Rustoleaum Premium Clear Coating? I’ve spent a lot of time etching and prepping but I’m mostly worried about hot tire lift. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Hello Stevie. No, we would not recommend using Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield as the primer coat if you want to use a commercial quality, high solids epoxy. The reason is that the water-based Rust-Oleum product is not a high quality epoxy. For a quality system, your best bet is an epoxy kit that includes an epoxy primer and high solids epoxy. Many of our sponsors offer such kits. One particular product that provides a high build, commercial coating system is Roll on Rock. We did a review on it here. If you are trying to stay with a budget system, then we would recommend Rust-Oleum Professional EpoxyShield along with the Rust-Oleum clear coat. The Rust-Oleum Professional has less issues with hot tire lift.
Thanks for the recommendation, Shea. I will probably return what I purchased and go with a higher quality epoxy system. I actually only have a (1) car garage at a little under 220 Sq Ft so the Roll on Rock system is about twice what I need. Do you have any recommendations of high quality kits for a project around 220 SF? Thanks.
You are right, that is too much for a single car garage. Here is an example of an excellent kit that covers 250 square feet. It includes the epoxy primer and a very high solids epoxy color coat with your choice of color flakes. Scroll down a couple sections and you will see the same kit with the option of a high performance polyurethane clear coat. These type of kits will give you 10-15 years of excellent service compared to a few years for Rust-Oleum. Of course, it all depends on the budget 🙂
That sound good to me – I will probably purchase that later tonight unless you have any better recommendations to consider. I’m not too worried about the price because it isnt a huge project; the “Garage Floor” one you recommended seemed very reasonable. Thanks!
I just installed a new garage slab. How long should I wait before I have a coating applied? What would you recommend as the best coating for a brand new slab that has never been used? I want to have it be sooth but also anitslip.
Hello David. You need to wait a minimum of 30 days for the concrete to cure before you apply a coating. If you haven’t applied a coating before, the easiest to apply commercial quality DIY product would a single-part polyurea system. If you don’t mind a limited working time with epoxy, then a system that consists of an epoxy primer, high solids epoxy base color coat, and a top clear coat of a high performance polyurethane or polyurea is a little less expensive and a thicker build. With either system, you would mix in an anti-slip media into the final coat. Keep in mind, there is no such thing as real smooth AND anti-slip. Anti-slip is going to provide some roughness for the grip. You can still walk on it in your bare feet and clean with a mop, but it won’t be glassy smooth.
There is no one company that produces the best coating. Many are actually private label branded from one of the larger concrete coating manufacturer’s in the U.S.A. One thing for sure, you do not want to purchase a coating from your local home improvement centers if you want something of commercial quality that is going to last. This includes brands such as Rust-Oleum, Valspar, Quikrete, and etc. If you visit this page here, it has a list of our sponsors. The ones who sell concrete coatings all carry commercial quality product. Many times the vendor with the best sale at the time can dictate which you choose to purchase. In addition, we suggest you read this article about data sheets to learn more about how to compare and gauge the quality of a coating.
Hi there. This article is very helpful. Thanks for this. I have to apply epoxy coating to my garage floor. Please help me out in choosing the right products. Budget is not a constraint but would like to do the job myself.
1. Our house is 3 years old
2. Garage floor is in good condition
3. I painted the walls white and during the process few paint drops fell on the floor. The floor has been acid washed and has dried up now
4. We want the floor to be of white color since garage is being converted into a studio.
Requesting you to help me in choosing the right product. Thank you!!
Hi Sachin. White garage floors look nice, but they require additional materials to achieve the proper outcome. We happen to have an article on such a project with the products that we recommend. You can read about it here.
Thanks for the quick reply. The Armor Poxy product mentioned in the article you shared, looks good but it’s definitely above our budget now. With this product, price will be around $1000 and we can instead go for white vinyl planks. We won’t be parking cars in the garage, no heavy traffic will be there. Moreover we will remove shoes before going in the garage/studio. Please suggest something else which is less pricey and can sustain very less traffic.
The issue, Sachin, is that only commercial materials are available in white. You will not find white available in any of the typical home improvement store DIY floor coating kits. White is a color that allows the natural color of concrete to bleed through. You need at minimum a white epoxy primer and a white 100% solids epoxy color coat in order to achieve the look you want. You don’t need the white polyurethane color coat or clear coat if you won’t be driving on it or exposing the floor to any natural sunlight. I suggest you call and price out the white epoxy primer coat and 100% solids color coat. There will be a significant savings there.
Thanks again. Surely I will call and inquire about epoxy primer and 100% solids. I came across one of your comments where you have mentioned about Single Part Polyurea Coating and it looks economical also. Garage Flooring LLC looks to be selling it in white color also. Is that an option for me or should I go with epoxy primer and 100% solids only?
The reason that we didn’t recommend a single-part polyurea, Sachin, is because of your budget constraints. Single-part polyurea is slightly more expensive and White would require a minimum of three coats in order to provide a true white color without the grayish concrete color bleeding through. That is why Garage Flooring LLC doesn’t list it as a color option in their kits, though it is listed for buying just the coating separately. They want to talk with the customer first before selling a white kit due to the amount of coats required to do it properly.
Greetings, we bought a new home 6 years ago, and Put a Home Depot Rust-oleum epoxy shield on new concrete, etched it put it down according to the instructions. Now its flaking in many different areas. Looking to redo the entire floor, 1. Do we have to grind off the entire space or just the flaking spots. And the rest of the floor whats the proper prep for going over the top of existing product. 2. If the directions say this One kit will cover 400 square feet should we use 2 kits for thicker more durable coverage. We live in Wyoming where they use lots and lots of chemicals to keep ice off the roads, i think this is why the flaking, is there anything that can prevent this
Hello Doug. If the coating is flaking and peeling off in many areas, then that is a sign that it was not adhered well to begin with. We highly recommend removing the remainder of the coating via grinding. The last thing you want to do is apply a new coating over one that susceptible to peeling. The grinding will also provide the proper surface profile for a new coating. The Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield is a low solids content, water-based epoxy and ranks with a few others as the least durable coating you can apply to a garage floor. We would not recommend it for your environment. Two coats would certainly help to reduce the amount of time it will take to wear through to the concrete, but it will not improve the overall durability much. If you want to use Rust-Oleum, then we would recommend the Rust-Oleum Professional EpoxyShield. It’s a solvent-based epoxy that is a higher solids content. It will adhere better to the concrete and last longer. If the budget allows for it, there are much better coatings that can be applied that will last years and stand up extremely well to your environment.
I bought a home that came with an epoxy garage floor. I lived here 2 years and would like to recoat it with a different color . Can I sand it and go over it or do I have to strip it.. The epoxy on it now is a 2 part from sherwin Williams and is not water based
Hi Richard. If the epoxy is solid and soundly adhered, you can do just that. We have an article here about prepping and recoating older epoxy floors.
My husband would like to apply a premium multi-coat epoxy floor convering to our garage. He is aware of necessary floor prep and grinding prior to application. Can you tell us what brands of primer you would recommend, and where it can be purchased? We would also like your recommendations for brand/place of purchase for 100% solids basecoat, acrylic paint cups, and topcoats. Thank you.
Hi Joan. We recommend using the same brand of epoxy primer from the vendor you will be purchasing the epoxy. It’s always best to stay within the own manufacturer’s or vendor’s line of products to avoid possible warranty or compatibility issues. We have some great sponsors on All Garage Floors that sell kits like these. Some even offer many of the necessary supplies to go with it. Garage Flooring LLC, Legacy Industrial, Epoxy-Coat, ArmorPoxy, EpoxyMaster, and ArmorGarage all have kits like this. We have links to these vendors on this page here as well as the ads on the right hand side of our site (desktop). Be sure to call if you have questions. Many of these vendors want your project to be successful and will answer all product and install questions.
Hi. I have an older (40 yrs) attached garage that was previously painted.
There are areas where the concrete has cracks and also areas where the top of the concrete has eroded. Leaving a “divot” and exposing aggregate. I have been looking at the ARMORGARAGE system but wonder about the best way to repair the cracks and divots in the concrete first. The Armorgarage people say they have a fast curing crack repair compound. Is this a good product?
Thanks again.
Hi Richard. Yes, it’s a good product. It’s almost always a good choice to use the appropriate repair products that vendors offer to go with their coatings. They want your installation to be successful just as much as you do. Don’t hesitate to call any vendor and ask questions.
Hello Shea,
I had one last question! If the prices are the same between Nohr-S or All Weather Floors (Polyurea), what would your choice be?
Is it strictly whichever has a better price at the moment?
From what I’ve gathered, the only other difference (besides price) is that Nohr-S comes with a primer.
Thanks again for your help.
Hi Brian. All Weather Floors provides more polyurea for the money while Nohr-S also provides and epoxy primer for a little more. Polyurea adheres extremely well to bare concrete as is. If my floor was in good shape to begin with, I would opt to go with AWF Polyurea. However, if there were quite a few repairs that needed to be made or the surface was rough or not the best from winter use or years of wear, then I would opt to go Nohr-S in order to apply the Nohr-S epoxy primer first.
Thank you as always for your response! Happy thanksgiving!
Thanks for the great articles.
What are your thoughts on polyaspartic garage floor coatings?
Polyaspartics are typically the most durable and stain resistant surface. They are a big advantage for installers that sell one day coating systems for clients that don’t want to be without use of their garage for a few days. Our preference is a hybrid system of epoxy and a top coat of polyaspartic. The reason is that epoxy does not cure as quickly and has more time to seep into the concrete surface for the best mechanical adhesion. You can read more about polyaspartics here.
Hello Shea,
Awesome article. Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge. I live on the 4th floor of a converted warehouse. All of our floors are original 101-year old concrete, complete with all sorts of cracks and unevenness, all of which adds to the character of the building.
Best I can tell the floors were epoxied about 15 years ago. The old cans in the basement suggest it was Benjamin Moore Polyamide Epoxy Coating Gloss Catalyst and BM Polyamide Epoxy Coating Finish. There are areas where the epoxy fas chipped or flaked off and the gloss is beginning to fad in some other areas.
Any suggestions on…
1. What is use in place of the BM stuff?
2. Can I epoxy small areas?
3. And if so, what are the steps to prepping the bare areas, as well as, the areas immediately next to the bare areas?
Thank you so much!
Hi Rob. You can certainly apply more epoxy to various areas, however, epoxy does not blend like a paint on a wall does when you do touch ups. The same goes if you applied brand new epoxy and then came back with a new batch of the same epoxy a few hours later to continue. If a wet edge is not maintained it will show obvious overlap marks and look different. It will definitely add to the character of the floor though if you just did the few areas.
Benjamin Moore shows that they still make the same version of what you found in the basement. We would recommend using that or similar qualtiy. Sherwin-Williams ArmorSeal 1000HS is a similar quality epoxy. Do not use anything from a home improvement center such as Rust-Oleum. It will be a lesser quality coating (thinner not as durable) and not as glossy. We have an article here on how to recoat old epoxy. Assuming that the concrete was prepped correctly the first time around, we would recommend sanding the bare areas using an orbital sander with 20-30 grit silicon carbide sanding discs.
Shea,
AMAZING! Thank you so much for your expert advice!
Greetings,
Great article. I would like to use commercial grade epoxy to coat a garage floor. The garage is 7 years old. What brand would you recommend, number of coats that would last for a long time, etc.? And what would be expect life expectancy of using epoxy? I do not mind being without a garage for a few days. I’m in the process of hiring a team who would apply the epoxy but expects me to purchase the product.
Also, please share if there’s a better product to use that is not necessarily epoxy.
Many thanks,
Staci
Hi Staci. Are you looking for a single coat application without color flakes or do you want a multi coat system that includes color flakes and a clear coat to protect them? As an FYI, be extremely careful about hiring someone to do the job. One of the more common email question we get is how fix a floor coating that was installed by someone the person hired who is not a licensed and bonded floor coating professional. The worst offenders are painters and handymen. They always assume applying a coating is similar to painting and it’s not. Many times instructions are not read or short cuts are taken because they think they know better and so on.
Hello,
We are currently coating our garage with Rust-oleum Epoxy shield Kit from Home depot. Our garage has an old clear coating. We power washed, acid etched and grinded the peeling old coating. Then, put a Recoat primer from Rust-oleum. When we are ready to put the 2 part Water based epoxy, we noticed that the primer is peeling. We sanded the peeling primer and put the epoxy coating. Will the Epoxy coating peels when we drive our car in? We just did 1/2 of the garage. And now we are about to do the other half. Do we need to put in a primer on that half or just put the epoxy coat straight to the concrete? We are sanding peeling old coats on the unfinished half of the garage.
Hi Victoria. All coatings are only as good as what they are adhered to. Based on your description, we believe there is a fairly good chance that you will experience hot tire pickup as well as peeling in other areas sometime in the future. If the older clear coating was suspect, then it should have been completely removed via grinding so that the epoxy could be applied to the bare concrete. Once a concrete surface has be profiled via grinding, etching or any other treatment is not necessary. Just as an FYI, etches do not work on coatings or sealed concrete. They only work on bare, unsealed concrete.
Rust-Oleum Recoat Primer is only to be used on sound (adhered well) paint, coatings, or bare concrete that has been sealed. It is not to be used on bare concrete that is not sealed or has been treated with etching. We have an article here about the proper use of that product. We also have an article here that discusses how to apply a new coating to an old coating. I hope that helps.
Hello,
Thank you for your advise. On the other half of the garage, we can sand some areas to bare concrete. But the other areas have coating (it’s shiny) and can’t be removed. Should I just put the Recoat Primer on these areas before putting the Epoxy Coating? And I’ll just put the epoxy coating on the bare concrete after etching it.
Thanks for your valuable advice!
If you are sanding a coating that is sound and then etching bare concrete, then there is no reason to put down the recoat primer. The epoxy will adhere well to the sanding coating and the etched concrete.
Thank you so much for your advise!
My wife and I just bought a house and would like to epoxy the garage. I received a quote for $5000 which is just too high. The contractor said the majority of the work is prep work. There is an oil stain on the floor that he was concerned may have seeped deeply into the concrete, and some spots that needed patched. I figured prep work in mostly labor, and I can do labor. From what I’m reading, it would seem I could get a good professional epoxy kit for around $800 for 540 sq ft. Am I close? Also, what prep would I need to do besides etching and filling cracks and holes? Would I need to rent a concrete floor sander? Thanks 🙂
Hi Mark, $800 dollars seems about right for a partial flake coverage and one coat of a high performance clear coat if you want commercial quality materials for 540 square feet. It gets more expensive if going with a full color flake floor. Keep in mind, that does not include the proper repair materials that you will need, all needed supplies, and/or possible rental fees if you elect to grind. I suggest you read our article here about how to install a garage floor coating. It covers all the bases for a variety of coatings and includes links to all pertinent information. If you have any specific questions that are not answered, feel free to ask.
I wish I did research online and looked at all the information on your site before I ordered the products 🙁 I have a 500 sq ft garage. I am planning on grinding the floor, do I need to act etch?. I have bought epoxy shield (2.5 car kit + 1 car kit) and then leggari top coat (https://leggari.com/product/wb-urethane-floor/). I assumed that having a good quality top coat will help with the durability. Please let me know if this combination will be good? Also do you suggested using a primer before applying epoxy shield. I was thinking about using this primer if primer will be helpful(https://leggari.com/product/wb-primer/). I read your comments about sticking to the same manufacturer but in my case I already ordered the products 🙁
Hi Ked. What you have chosen will work, but you may want to reconsider. Grinding provides the best profile for coatings. However, EpoxyShield is a thin, water-based coating with a satin finish. Because the grinding makes the concrete more porous, the concrete will absorb more epoxy (as it should). This will reduce the coverage rates as well as result in a thinner dry film thickness. This can create color tone issues and will make the epoxy more susceptible to hot tire pickup (EpoxyShield already has this issue). Rust-Oleum provides the less aggressive eco etch and concrete cleaner for a variety of reasons, one of which is so that color tone and coverage rates won’t be an issue. There are no epoxy primers for EpoxyShield (or similar DIY coatings) because it’s a thin inexpensive coating as is. Actual epoxy primers used for high solids epoxy coatings are 1 mil thicker on average and better quality than EpoxyShield.
The Leggari polyurethane will work, but it’s really intended for interior surfaces and countertops. If you check their literature, all of their images are for interior home floors which experience foot traffic only or countertops. It will perform better as a topcoat than EpoxyShield in terms of wear, but water-based polyurethanes are known for getting brown stains from car tires that cannot be removed.
Hi,
So my options are
Option 1. No grinding just clean, degrees and acid etch (that comes with the kit) and apply epoxy shield. Should I apply the (leggari top coat + grit additive) on top of epoxy shield or not?
Option 2. Try returning the kits and start with new kit. Which kit would your recommend? In some comment above you mentioned that there are kits for around $800 for partial flake coverage. Could you suggest a good one around this price?
Thanking you,
Ked
Hi Ked. Option 1 will help to ensure that you get the proper coverage rate for the EpoxyShield color coat. However, even with the Leggari clear coat, you will have a chance of hot tire pickup because of the EpoxyShield base.
For the budget you specified, we believe you would be much happier in the long run with Option 2. You can purchase a commercial quality kit that includes epoxy primer, a 93% solids epoxy color base coat (3x thicker than EpoxyShield), and a high-performance polyurethane designed for garages and car traffic. This one here is an example. Just scroll down to the 500 square feet with urethane top coat. It is well within the budget you specified.
For just under your budget, you can also consider a single-part polyurea system. This type of polyurea is the easiest of all coatings to apply and does not require mixing of two components or a primer. In addition, both the color coat and clear coat are U.V. stable so there is no worry about ambering if the floor will be exposed to direct sunlight. Here is an example of such a kit.
Either one of these kits will go 10-15 years before needing a new clear coat. Our sponsors that sell coatings specialize in commercial quality coatings only that are designed for the DIY consumer. We recommend giving any one of them a call and talk to them about your project. Unlike home improvement centers, they are experienced with proper coatings and will be able to help you with any application questions. I hope this helps to point you in the direction you want to go.