Trying to figure out the best garage floor epoxy coating system for your garage as well as your budget isn’t always easy. With so many epoxy products, manufacturers, and commercial installers to choose from, it can be frustrating and somewhat overwhelming if you don’t know exactly what you want or how an epoxy coating system works.
The easiest way to tackle this problem is to break it down into the different types of epoxy products available and explain how they are installed together as systems. You can choose to purchase and install the epoxy yourself or hire a garage floor coating contractor with their own products. Either way, our goal here is to help eliminate the confusion about epoxy and to educate you on the different options available in order to choose the best epoxy for you.
What you don’t want to be fooled by are the many ignorant epoxy reviews that you can find online. These are usually titled as “The Top 10 Epoxy Garage Floor Coatings” or something similar. These are articles written by people who have little to any knowledge of concrete coatings in general.
There are many reputable brands of epoxy available. What it comes down to when determining the best coating for your garage floor is, what type of epoxy is it and how is it used as part of a system? So please read on to learn what constitutes your basic epoxy products and systems all the way to the best that you can install for your garage floor.
Waterborne Epoxy Paint
Water based epoxy is easy to apply and has a longer pot life that reduces the worry of getting it applied as quickly as other epoxy products require. It’s almost as easy to apply as paint and is why it’s advertised as epoxy paint. Because of this, it is the favorite type that companies like to market to the DIY crowd.
Your first choice is the “do it yourself” epoxy paint kits by brands such as RustOleum or Quikrete for example. They can be purchased from your local home improvement center or hardware store for anywhere from $50 to $70 depending on brand and are available in either gray or tan.
These kits are designed as a single coat system with roughly 50% solids content of epoxy and a coverage rate of around 250 square feet. They roll on easy and cure to a thin coat of approximately 3 mils with a matte to semi-gloss finish.
Though inexpensive, this is the least durable of epoxy to apply. They are based on older formulations and are not the best value for your dollar. Their resistance to stains and chemicals are not as good as other types of garage floor epoxy and they are susceptible to hot tire lift.
If you like the easier application requirements of water based epoxy, you can increase the durability and protection with a more professional multi-coat kit that offers a second coat of epoxy clear as a top coat. This also doubles the coating thickness from 3 mils to 6 mils. Some brands such as The Original Color Chips offer kits such as these. They are a better value for the money with more current epoxy formulations and pricing starting around $175.
High Solids Epoxy
The next step up is the commercial grade epoxy products. They have the best resistance to stains, chemicals, and abrasion. They also have high solids content with the best being 100% solids epoxy.
The 100% solids single coat system is much thicker and will cure to approximately 10 mils or more depending on the brand. In fact, a single coat of 100% solids epoxy is more durable than two coats of a typical water based product. High solids epoxy make for a great color base coat to a multi-coat system due to their high build and are available in many choices of color options as well.
Cost for these commercial grade products vary depending on the solids content and brand. Expect to pay a minimum of $115 for clear epoxy only that will cover 250 square feet. The price goes up from there for standard colors and custom tints. For an average price of $180, many of these kits include the tools required to apply them plus a bag of colored acrylic paint flakes or chips to apply to the floor as well.
Though this type of epoxy is a much better value, it is not as DIY friendly as water based epoxy. It has a much thicker viscosity and needs to be back rolled when applied. The pot life is shorter as well, requiring that it be applied to the garage floor within 30 – 40 minutes after mixing.
Clear Epoxy or Polyurethane Top Coats
To improve upon the single coat 100% solids epoxy, the next step is to add a coat or two of clear epoxy or polyurethane. This is referred to as the top coat. This clear coat system adds not only durability and thickness, but is also what gives your floor that deep gloss and shine.
If adding a topcoat, you also have the option of adding additional paint chips to your base coat. They can be sprinkled on sparingly or they can be applied to full refusal. Full refusal is the process of throwing on chips until they don’t stick anymore.
There are two reasons you may want to do a full refusal broadcast. The first is that it will give the floor some texture, increase thickness for durability, and help to produce an anti-slip surface. The second reason is pure cosmetics. With the multitude of different colored chip combinations to choose from, you can give your garage floor any custom look that you like.
Best Garage Floor Epoxy Coating System
The best coating that you can apply to your garage floor will be a premium multi-coat epoxy system. This will consist of a primer coat, 100% solids basecoat, acrylic colored paint chips if you desire, and one or two topcoats of clear epoxy or polyurethane. It’s not uncommon for such a floor to be between 30 and 40 mils in thickness. These type of floor systems can last 15-20 years or more.
Any premium epoxy system will involve a primer. Most primers will be anywhere from 50% to 70% solids content which will make for a thinner coat and consistency. There are many reasons for using a primer. The thinner consistency allows for the epoxy to seep deeper into the pores of the concrete to create a better bond. It also creates better adhesion for your basecoat and helps to prevent pinholes and bubbles which are caused from out gassing of the concrete.
Though this epoxy system is the most expensive of garage flooring options, this floor coating will give you the best return for your dollar. Cost varies depending on the size of your garage. Expect a minimum cost of $850 in materials for an epoxy primer, color base coat, acrylic color flakes, and clear top coat for an average sized 2-car garage if installing it yourself. Garage flooring contractors start around $4.50 a square foot for a similar system and go up in price from there.
Final notes
If you are going to apply an epoxy coating yourself you can create any one of the above combinations. Just remember when looking at different brands, compare both the coverage rate and solids content along with the price. If product A covers 250 square feet per container and product B covers 300 square feet per container, you are much better off going with product B if you have a 540 square foot garage. Do not attempt to stretch it out or you are destined to receive poor results.
Another factor to consider is the supplies that come with these kits. Some brands include rollers, mixing paddles, spiked shoes, paint brushes and other supplies in their price. Lastly is checking to see if they offer technical support. If this is your first time at applying a good quality epoxy and you want to make sure all your questions are answered, a manufacturer with good customer service is worth every penny.
If you are looking into hiring a contractor to install an epoxy coating for your garage floor, make sure to ask how many coats they use and what each coat does. Many times flooring contractors will substitute lessor quality epoxy or less coats in order to compete in price.
So remember when choosing the best epoxy coating for your garage floor and budget is to make sure you have enough to cover your floor. Multiple coats will increase the wear and durability of the floor and always go with a higher solids content if you can afford it. The dollar cost average over time for the floor is much better if you do. And finally, if applying the floor coating yourself, choose an epoxy manufacturer with good customer service to insure a good experience and a quality floor.
Can I put a clear polyurethane with UV inhibitors over Rust-Oleum Rock Solid polycuramine system. Rust-Oleum clear coating does not have Uv inhibitors and I am having to redcoat my garage because their clear coat has yellowed badly. If this is possible could you pleas recommend a polyurethane product with UV inhibitors.
Thank You
Hi Scott. Just to avoid confusion, polyurethane concrete coatings are inherently U.V. stable and will not yellow (amber) at all due to their chemical makeup. They do not have U.V. inhibitors added. U.V. inhibitors are typically added to high solids epoxy to help slow down the ambering process when exposed to strong U.V. light, but it does not prevent it. Also, while a clear polyurethane or polyurea topcoat will not amber, it will not prevent the colored polycuramine (or epoxy) from ambering underneath – though it will slow the process down since the strength of the U.V. light is diminished somewhat from passing through the clear coat.
Many of our sponsors offer high performance polyurethane concrete coatings. Here is a good example. We don’t recommend using WB (water-based) polyurethane for garage floors. Are you removing the clear coat down to the color coat via sanding or are you starting over with a new color coat?
Thank you very much for your quick and very helpful response. My intention is to re coat my 10 year old rustoleum epoxy /clear coat with the newer Rustoleum Rocksolid polycurmine system. After contacting Rustoleum technical support I was unhappy to learn that the additional clear coat that they offer has no UV properties. Short of completely grinding off my existing epoxy coating I am looking for my best option of a product that can go over my existing floor. My hours of homework has led me to the Rocksolid product but I am open to suggestions of other products that can go over an existing coating and be UV stable. If I go with the Rocksolid product I am looking for a clear top coat that is compatible with Rocksolid and is UV stable. Thanks.
You can apply a polyurethane coating over RockSolid if that is the color base coat you choose to go with. Most coatings will achieve a chemical bond to each other when applied within the proper recoat window, despite the fact that an epoxy may be from from brand A and the clear coat from brand B. However, manufacturer’s typically will not warranty for defects or problems with materials if this is done. Polycuramine is a unique blend of polyurethane, epoxy, and polyurea. A polyurethane coating should adhere well if applied within 24 hours of the color coat. However, we do not know of anyone who has done this. I’m sure someone has, but it has not come to our attention. So in essence, your floor would be a test of this general practice. The other option would be to let the color coat cure for a few days and then rough it up with 120 grit sandpaper or a with a green scrub pad on a floor maintainer. This will achieve a mechanical bond in which there will not be any issues. The problem with this method is that you will loose some of your color flakes in the process (assuming you tossed them into the color coat).
The other option you have is to choose a complete coating system that is U.V. stable. Single-part polyurea is an excellent example. You can read about it here. Removal of your old coating is recommended before you go this route since this type of coating is much higher quality and will adhere to bare concrete much better than the Rust-Oleum epoxy. However, if your old coating has not peeled at all and you are sure it is sound, you can prep your old coating properly and apply the polyurea over it.
Hi Scott,
Did you end up using a polyurethane from a different manufacturer over your rocksolid polycuramine? I was considering doing the same thing as a way of keeping cost down and having a stronger top coat but am apprehensive about mixing manufacturers.
Hi,
I am looking to hire a contractor to put epoxy down on my floor. I don’t want to trust him fully and I want buy the materials and let him to the work . Can u please breakdown for me what I need to by and how many coats of each I should tell him to do etc? My goal is to seal my concrete floor properly ( to help prevent cracks) and to keep floor from being dusty( my kids walk in and out of it into my house and track dust all over. I have a 20×20 garage and would like to be in the $250 range max for materials
Hello Carl. Most professional floor coating contractors and garage floor coating companies use their own commercial quality product and will not apply something provided for them. Their reputation rides on the quality of the coatings. This article here talks about hiring contractors. Unfortunately, your budget wouldn’t cover the cost of the materials that the professionals use. I would be wary of anyone willing to do an install with product provided. Typically it’s only painters and handyman that will do that and from our experience, most don’t know what they are doing. We get more emails from people asking how to fix their floor coating after hiring someone to apply something they purchased themselves.
In terms of product choice, your budget severely limits your choices for the square footage. If you want the least chance of hot tire pickup, we would recommend the Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Professional garage floor coating kits. You would need two kits minimum for one coat. This will put you at the edge of your budget, not including supplies. Your only choice after that is the lower quality water-based version of the same kit. It costs less, but you still would not have enough in your budget to apply a clear coat.
I am hiring a handy man , because I can’t find legit guy in my area. SO lets say I raised the budget to ensure the job is done the right way and with the right materials and product. What should I purchase and how should it be done so I can explain to him exactly what I expect him to do ? Thank you
The first thing to do is make sure that the person pays close attention to the application instructions and does not take short cuts. It would be wise for you to follow along so that you know what is required. Concrete prep is the most critical aspect of applying coatings and people who don’t know any better want to take short cuts because it’s the part that requires the most work. The type of product I would recommend would be a single-part polyurea. We have an article here about them, including links to vendors who sell it. It’s a much better product and is actually the easiest to apply with less risk of messing things up. It does require acid etching. If the budget is tight, I would just stay with a color coat and don’t do the clear coat. If you can afford the clear coat, then that would be even better. This type of product will last 10 years or more and meet all the requirements on your list.
So I had guy come in and he put down a water based epoxy with two coats and the clear coat . He used a kit. I noticed after day that clear coat had some open circles on it and when I moved the fridge back into the garage it basically cut through the epoxy is some spots. I waited 124 hours between coats in 75 degree water and then waited 12 hours after clear coat before I walked on it . DO I need to strip out entire floor and redo it is there way to spot repair ? I would send photos but down see a way to do that . Thanks in advance
Hello Carl. What product was it exactly? Unless it was RockSolid, 124 hours is too long to wait between coats. The open circles sound like a condition called fisheyes. This is when the epoxy repells from a spot on the floor. When that happens, it’s usually due to some sort of contamination on the surface that the epoxy reacts to. If the color coat is good, you can usually sand the clear coat and reapply a new clear coat. You can send images to us at [email protected]
Can I put concrete paint down as the 1st coasting or a primer then apply Rust-Oleum Epoxy over the paint or primer?
Hi Justin. No, you can’t do that. Paint and epoxy are not chemically compatible. This article explains the differences. In addition, paint does not provide the same tenacious bond to concrete that epoxy does. It’s one of the many attributes of epoxy on concrete that makes it superior to paint. Your coating is only as good as what it is attached to, so you want the epoxy bonded to concrete and not paint.
I have been seeing epoxy paint being used inside homes on floors with a marbelling effect that is this a good idea and do you have information on that?
Hello Nancy. Most of the marbling effect is accomplished with metallic epoxy coatings. It allows for a multitude of finishes with none looking exactly the same. This video here is an example of a marbled look. RockSolid even has their own version here. While these type of coatings can do very well in the home, they do present their own drawbacks in the garage. There are two issues that people complain about. The first is dust. Because most of these colors are darker and glossy in nature, they tend to show every bit of dust, including dusty tire prints and foot prints. This is why traditional garage floors are done in lighter colors. The other issue is that the extreme glossy look with the darker colors tend show all the little scratches that lighter colors with color flakes tend to hide or camouflage. You just have decide if these are issues you are willing to deal with.
I heard that epoxy coating could cover the bad odor ( like cat urine odor) ,
( please note that the floor has been treated but still has some kind of odor but not as strong as it was before ) Please advise.
If yes, which kind of epoxy coating will be the choice?
Hi Vanessa. We cover that entire topic, including coatings, in this article about odor removal. There is a specific set of steps to follow in order to be successful in removing pet urine odor from concrete.
I’m a one person DIY and have a 2 1/2 garage. Is it ok to complete the coating in two phases with the first phase being the first two stalls and then come back and complete the 1/2 stall. I would do the prep if I do the for the complete garage but then coat in two separate phases. Would this workout?
Hi Denny. As long as you have a contraction joint to use as a natural border between coatings you will be fine splitting the job that way. Coatings do not blend well when they overlap like paint does on a wall. The joint makes for a nice divider. If you are doing a 2-part color coating, we recommend that you mix all the colored resin together first to ensure color uniformity. Just pay attention to the amounts of each kit so that you can mix each kit appropriately. This article explains more on how to do that.