There is an abundance of confusion today from homeowners looking to apply and epoxy coating to their garage floor. Should it be epoxy paint or an epoxy coating? Is there a difference? If so, which is best? The easiest way to figure this out is to learn the difference between paint, epoxy paint, and epoxy coatings, in order to eliminate all the confusion and be able to make an informed decision.
The first misnomer that we want to address is that an epoxy coating is not paint. Garage floor paint is a latex acrylic product. Many of the well-known paint manufactures do offer paint with a small amount of epoxy in the mix and refer to them as 1-Part epoxy paint. This allows for better adhesion and durability than standard acrylic paint, but it is not an epoxy product.
The term “epoxy paint” came about when epoxy manufactures took notice of the terminology that people were using when searching for epoxy coatings. The DIY public was intermixing the term “paint” with “coating”. So a marketing decision was made and many well known DIY epoxy flooring manufacturers that you see in home improvement centers decided to brand their products as “epoxy paint” since that is what consumers seemed to be calling it.
As a result, it has only made things more confusing for the consumer. Chances are that when you see something advertised as epoxy paint for your garage, it could be acrylic paint or it could be an epoxy coating. This has led to many people buying a paint for their garage floor when what they thought they were purchasing was an epoxy coating.
What is an epoxy floor coating?
Epoxy is a two component product consisting of one part epoxy resin and one part polyamine hardener. You are required to mix the two parts together prior to application. After mixing you are limited by time and temperature as to how long you have to apply it. With colored epoxies it is the resin that is tinted to give the epoxy color. If it’s not tinted, then it goes on as a clear coating.
Epoxy coatings cure and do not dry like paint does. Unlike paint, the mixing of the two components starts a reactive process that creates cross-linking of the components while it cures. This cross-linking provides a very hard and durable surface that seals the concrete and is resistant to staining, abrasion, and chemicals. The amount of resistance and performance of the coating is usually determined by the quality and solids content of the epoxy.
The ease of application and thickness of the epoxy is also dependent on the volume of solids content. This is always displayed as a percentage. In other words, 100% solids epoxy means that you have 100% of the product on the floor after it cures. 50% solids mean that you will have 50% of the product remaining on the floor after it has cured. The reason for this is that the carrier agents (water or solvents) which are used in the lower solids product evaporate out as the epoxy cures.
As an example, a 100% solids epoxy applied with a roller has an approximate wet film thickness (WFT) of 10 mils. Once it cures, the dry film thickness (DFT) remains at 10 mils. A 50% solids epoxy will have a wet film thickness of approximately 6 mils. Once it cures, the coating is reduced to a dry film thickness of 3 mils.
100% solids epoxy is harder to work with during application because of the thicker viscosity and limited time to apply it. Epoxy with a lesser solids content has less viscosity and is easier to apply.
Many of the inexpensive “DIY” epoxy paint kits that you can buy at the local home improvement centers and online have as little as 48% solids. This means that it is easier to apply as well as cheaper to buy because the solids content is much lower along with the quality. It goes on the floor almost as easy as paint does.
In fact, easy application it is one of the primary marketing points that makes these kits so popular to purchase. They can be applied to your garage floor more easily compared to the more premium epoxy coat systems.
Keep in mind that this also means you have much less of it on the garage floor resulting in a much thinner coat. This affects the performance and durability of the coating when compared to epoxy brands with a higher solids content.
Does this mean that these epoxy paint kits are bad? No, it just means that you are getting what you pay for. Many of these kits cost under $70 and cover up to 250ft². Two kits will cover a typical two-car garage. They are usually available in either grey or beige with a semi-gloss finish and include a small bag of paint chips to add if you like.
The more expensive kits tend to be marketed as epoxy coatings, though there are some exceptions. They come in multiple colors, have a higher solids content, and result in a thicker, more durable surface that lasts years longer.
When ever in doubt about what you are purchasing, always review the TDS sheets. These will detail exactly what type of product you are purchasing as well as other very important information regarding application and durability.
So don’t fall for the epoxy marketing name game when deciding on what you want to apply to your garage floor. As you can see, epoxy paint and epoxy coating generally mean the same thing. They are both an epoxy coating. Do your research first, as this will help you to understand the type of epoxy you are purchasing and what kind of results to expect.
Nice article
Floor epoxy and wood epoxy ,are they the same or they are different?
Hello HJ. Wood epoxy is formulated different than epoxy used for concrete floor coatings. Some concrete coatings can be used on wood, but epoxy for wood should not be used as a floor coating. It would be much more expensive to apply and the abrasion characteristics are different for starters.
Is epoxy fire proof paint??
Hello Dharmendra. Epoxy is not paint. This article explains the difference between epoxy and paint. Epoxy formulations can be obtained that are fire resistant, but not fire proof.
Hello, about 20 years or more ago I made a water fountain and coated it with an epoxy paint purchased at Wellborn paint. It was 1 quart alone; not 2-part, and it has lasted all this time greatly. It started to fade and deteriorate a couple of years ago so I bought the 1-part epoxy Behr concrete and garage floor paint because the paint I used originally wasn’t available where I first bought it. I coated the fountain with the Behr paint (satin) and I don’t have too much confidence in it. I was going to give it a second coat today but it doesn’t seem as thick or as glossy or the color that I preferred; I’ve taken the gallon can back twice to adjust the color and the technician said that putting too much color pigment in it will make it less strong. I’d like to get some epoxy paint like I originally used. I was wondering if you had any advice. Thanks, Joshua
Hello Joshua. The Behr 1-part epoxy paint is just latex paint. It has a little bit of epoxy added to aid in adhesion and wear, but that’s it. I’m not sure what you applied before, but it could not have been epoxy. Epoxy requires that you mix the resin (part-A) with a catalyst (part-B) in order for it to react and cure. Also, if exposed outdoors it will amber (turn yellow) and even begin to chalk. You may want to check with one of the vendors that offer a single-part polyurea. We have an article here with links to them. Single-part polyurea can take U.V. light and outdoor exposure. You may be limited by color selection though.
I’m restoring some antique encaustic (concrete/clay-based) tiles. I need to fill in some larger chips/flakes around the edges created while they were salvaged. Having used epoxy fillers for other projects, I believe that will work to fill in divots, but I’d like to find small quanities of epoxy paints in primary colors plus white, black, & brown. Do you know of any brand or source? The tiles are floor tiles.
Hello PJC. We are not aware of anyone who sells such a product in colors like that. Epoxy requires the mixing of a part-A resin and part-B catalyst (hardener) in order to activate. What you may be able to do is purchase small sizes such as these from Hobby Lobby or equivalent hobby shop. You can choose the 5 minute fast cure or longer 30 minute cure. You can then tint the part-A resin with something like this. Keep in mind that clear epoxy is not water clear. It actually has a yellow tint to it. So you need to keep that in mind when tinting for color.
Hello, are all epoxy coatings inherently glossy? Or are there any available with matte/flat finishes? Thanks!
Hello JD. Most epoxy floor coatings are gloss to semi gloss. However, there are some polyurethane clear coatings that you can apply to epoxy that are matte in finish. This would tone down the gloss. We suggest you contact ArmorPoxy and tell them you are looking for a matte finish floor coating and see what they can do for you. They supply many large commercial flooring contractors across the U.S. and may have what you need.
Great, thanks!!
Hello and I have a Question. I live in our old 60 year old home. We were in a Hurricane that caused flooding to 3 feet inside our home. We were about to pull up the entire kitchen floor and replace it with thick plywood. Come to find out after pulling the main floor off, we had the most beautiful Oak Planks. So we decided to keep those and we did sand them, put polyurethane over them. But, there are pieces that are sticking up and they can be bad on the feet. Also, there are some wide spaces where the planks don’t meet. I was wondering if I could put the epoxy over the floor to cover up the nails that stick up, but mainly the splintering wood?
Hello Shelli. Epoxy should not be used for repairing real wood floors. It will not fill gaps in the wood either. If the floor was sanded properly you should not have edges of boards sticking up. Splinters that stick up just above the surface should be repaired by inserting carpenters glue under the splinter and then press it back in place. Hold it down for 12-24 hours with strong tape or a heavy object with a flat bottom. Any nails that are sticking up should gently be pounded into the wood just below the surface using a punch. Any remaining cavities in the wood (including where nails are) should be filled with wood putty. Once the glue and putty has dried sufficiently, sand and then apply the polyurethane.
Hi! We are building a steel home on a concrete slab foundation. The home is quite large for a single level @ 4,320 sq ft. We are a multigenerational family, with 11 residents in the home…we live in the country, have a small farm, and two of our kiddos have special needs…our floors are going to take a beating! However, we do not have the $12k-$15k we are being quoted for an epoxy finish. Do you think it would be possible for us, as a family, to do a project this big? Room by room, of course. The most challenging room would be the kitchen/dining/ great room combo…27’x36’. Any recommendations?
Hello Bren. It can be done, but you will have to take in some considerations before you do. Proper concrete prep is important for floor coatings. It requires profiling the surface, which in your case would require grinding in most circumstances. You can’t acid etch inside the home. Also, some products will produce VOC’s when first applied, but they will rapidly dissipate within 24 hours. This isn’t really an issue if no one is residing within the building yet, but it can be if there is.
We suggest contacting ArmorPoxy and speak with them about your desired project. They are a very large floor coating supplier and contractor with an extensive line of product. They are very helpful and can make some recommendations based on your requirements. Depending on product, you should easily be able to complete your floors for 1/3 of what you are being quoted.
Can I use epoxy flooring on the walls (plaster finished), and what is the steps to do it on the walls? it needs a potty or primer enough?
Hello Tarek. No, epoxy is not designed as a wall coating and will not adhere well to plaster. Also, due to the slow cure times and thickness of the coating, it can begin to run when applied to such a smooth surface.
Thank you dear for your clarification, and is there a special kind for using on the plaster?
No there is not, Tarek. Epoxy coatings are not designed for plaster walls and you will not find anyone who sells epoxy for such.
Can 2-part epoxy be applied on an already existing epoxy coating on concrete floor?
Yes it can, Ajit. This article explains how.
Hi Shea
I recently used Behr Granite Grip on my garage floor. I prepped the floor correctly removing any oil/grease stains. I then used an acid wash to etch the surface. After the floor dried i tested a few spots to verify that water was absorbed into the cement and not beading. I also let the product sit for a week after applying it before driving on it.
This past winter with the ice and snow melt on to the garage floor i noticed bubbles. The bubbles seemed to be filled with water. Once the water penetrated under the paint it just spread until a small bubble grew much larger……
My question is …can i apply epoxy 2 part system over the top of this paint to prevent water from penetrating the painted surface.
Thanks in advance
Hello Mike. Did you do a moisture test before you applied the paint? Water bubbles under paint or a coating is a big sign of moisture that has migrated up through the slab to the underside of a coating. If you don’t have a moisture issue you can apply an actual epoxy coating. However, paint and epoxy are not very compatible. You will want to remove the paint first since paint does not adhere well to concrete and makes for a poor base.
Hi, I’ve seen rubber-like applications in children’s playparks in the UK. Wondered if this is also epoxy..?!
Hi Grace. No, it’s not epoxy. Epoxy cures to a very hard coating that is not flexible at all.
We have an older home built in the 1930s and would like to update our basement floors with epoxy. The original concrete was not poured as smooth and flat as new homes so has some “rolling” areas. There are also some patched areas where a new furnace was installed, new drain pipes replaced, etc. We’ve gotten a few quotes from companies to come do the work. One company advised against epoxy suggesting that the concrete was probably ready to be replaced – suggested polishing instead. This made me wonder if applying epoxy on older concrete would compromise it in some way. Another company would clean up/prep our basement concrete and apply a “breathable” epoxy since there is no vapor barrier under the concrete like in newer houses. We have no water coming into the basement and have no structural cracks in the floor. Do you have any thoughts about applying breathable epoxy to concrete that 90 years old.
Hi Kathy. I would stay away from the company that recommends polishing. If they stated that the concrete was ready to be replaced, then no amount of polishing is going to fix that. Regardless, polished concrete is not a good option for a basement. There is something funny going on there.
The company that recommends a special breathable epoxy is right on the money and would be a more trusted source. Ask if they do a moisture test before performing any work. Although your basement may not be wet, moisture vapor can still be coming up from beneath the slab. As long as it’s not too much vapor the breathable epoxy will allow it to pass and not hinder the coating. Ask about the concrete prep they do as well. Grinding is the preferred method and helps to smooth out and hide all the transitions where the concrete has been repaired or replaced in the past. Make sure that all work, including prep and materials, is put down in writing.