Yes, porcelain tile is one of the more durable garage floors that you can install in your home today and the toughest of all garage tile options – really! For a variety of reasons, and a few of which are very understandable, some people are having a hard time accepting the fact that it can be such a resilient and long-lasting garage floor choice.
As a result, we have decided to cover some of the more frequently asked questions regarding the durability of porcelain tiles for a garage floor. If the idea of this type of flooring is new to you, you can learn about the many benefits of porcelain tile in our first article.
F.A.Q.’s about porcelain garage floors
Will floor jacks damage porcelain tile?
This is the most popular question by far. No, floor jacks will not damage or crack the tile. The key to this is in the installation.
When laying the individual tile, it’s important that each tile has thinset (mortar) applied to both the concrete floor and the back of the tile (back buttering) before setting it. This insures that there are no air pockets under the tile and provides for a solid footing.
It’s also important to make sure all the tiles are level with each other and don’t have any raised edges. This prevents a small edge of tile from being the only load bearing source when using jacks or jack stands. Small grout lines of 3/16” or less help as well and make for easy rolling of tool boxes, creepers, and jacks.
It’s not uncommon at all to see porcelain tile used in mechanics garages and various automotive settings where jacks, lifts, and other heavy equipment are use.
Can porcelain tile be used in cold climates?
Yes. Because porcelain tile has an absorption rate of less than .05%, it will not absorb water which could cause damage if it freezes. If your winters traditionally get below freezing and your garage is not heated, there are a couple of requirements you must follow however.
The first is to use a thinset with a latex additive added to the mix. This makes the thinset more flexible and able to withstand the freeze/thaw cycles that a garage floor can go through.
The second is to seal your grout or use a grout that doesn’t require a sealer. This will prevent water or snow melt from seeping into the grout and underneath the tile causing it to pop off when water refreezes. It also aids in preventing stains in the grout.
Can I use ceramic tile instead of porcelain?
If you can find a ceramic tile with a PEI rating of 4 or 5 and if you live in a climate without freeze/thaw cycles then ceramic tile can be used in the garage. There are a few things to consider however.
This is a ceramic tiled garage floor by Jack Olsen. It’s known as the 12-Gauge Garage because of the 12 gauge steel used for the Strong Hold cabinets he installed. You can visit Jack’s garage here.
Porcelain tile is more dense than ceramic due the manufacturing process. This high density is what provides for the extremely low absorption rate. Because ceramics have a higher absorption rate, they should not be used in cold climates as water absorption during the freeze thaw cycles will cause it to crack.
Porcelain tile is also colored through-out the tile whereas ceramic is not. If you chip ceramic tile it is very noticeable because of the different color underneath the glaze. If you do happen to chip porcelain, it is much less noticeable because the color does not change.
Won’t porcelain tile break easily in a garage?
No. When porcelain tile is installed correctly without any voids or air pockets underneath the tile, it is very hard to break or chip. The extreme density of the tile is what makes it so strong.
A good example is from this short video clip below. The flooring is actually ceramic tile from Jack Olsen’s 12-Gauge Garage as shown in the photo above. In the video, Jack pounds the tile with a sledge hammer without damaging it. The video camera on the floor actually jumps because he is hitting the tile so hard.
While we don’t recommend pounding on your floor like this, you need to remember that the tile being struck is ceramic. Porcelain is stronger yet.
Will road salts and deicing fluids damage porcelain?
No. Because porcelain tile is so dense and has such a low absorption rate, salts and deicing fluids will not damage it. This is why porcelain tile is extremely hard to stain as well.
One exception to this is polished porcelain which you would not want to use in a garage due to how slippery it would be – which leads us right into our next question.
Isn’t porcelain tile too slippery for a garage floor?
No, it won’t be slippery if you purchase tile with a higher coefficient of friction (C.O.F.) rating. Tile rated between .055 and .059 are generally considered equivalent to bare wet concrete. A rating of .060 and above is considered slip resistant and meets or exceeds OSHA and ADA requirements for a wet surface.
This is why it’s not uncommon to see porcelain tile used in entry ways in commercial settings. It reduces the chance of slip fall accidents that could cause law suits.
Will welding damage porcelain tile?
Yes. Welding can lead to small burn marks on the surface of the tile which is extremely difficult to remove. In fact, welding will eventually damage any surface including concrete. A welding blanket should be used.
Convinced yet?
Hopefully the answers to these popular questions have dispelled some of the myths about the durability of porcelain tile as a garage floor. If you still aren’t convinced, then porcelain probably is not for you. It’s important to be confident in your garage flooring of choice. If you are convinced however, then you will be rewarded with years of service, durability, and good looks that will make your neighbors envious.
Kevin McCarty says
19 March, 2016 at 7:39 AMWhat is the approximate square foot cost for a porcelain tile garage floor installed?
Shea says
19 March, 2016 at 9:03 AMTo be honest Kevin, it really varies depending on your area. We know of many readers who paid less than $2 a square foot and readers who have paid up to $4. If you are considering a porcelain tiled garage floor, we suggest visiting a few tile stores in your area to get some names and references of installers in your area. Give them a call to get an idea of your installation costs before purchasing your tiles.
Aardee says
27 March, 2016 at 2:52 PMI am convinced! So the durability of porcelain garage floor depends on workmanship leaving no voids or air-pockets; that is so hard to find! Given that, I am now shopping for those who may specialize in this type of garage flooring and offer decent period of guaranty/warranty. I would appreciate if you can refer anyone. Q: What tile is size is better for durable floor, 12×12 or 24×24, assuming no one would do perfect floor prepping and installation job?
Shea says
27 March, 2016 at 6:58 PMHello Aardee. The tile size does not matter for durability, but it does make a difference for other things. Larger tile sizes for example require less grout lines. Generally, 12″x12″ is the minimum size you want to use and you can go up from there. Smaller sizes tend to look too busy in a garage. For installion we suggest contacting the various tile setters in your area to get a quote.
Chris says
16 May, 2016 at 9:22 AMWhat do you do with the expansion grooves in concrete? I would like to tile our carport floor and a large adjoining patio. However, the poured concrete patio has expansion joints cut in. Do we need to cut the tile along these lines and use a matching flexible caulk, or can we just continue the pattern and tile over the joints? Thank you for your help.
Shea says
16 May, 2016 at 7:17 PMHello Chris. Since the tile will be outside, it’s really best to honor the joints and cut the tile to match. You are going to get more expansion and contraction than you do in a garage. A sanded caulk in your matching grout color can be applied in those areas.
Wally says
17 May, 2016 at 7:45 AMI am thinking about tiling my garage. Do I have to use a porcelain tile with PEI of 4 or 5? It’s a residential garage not a working garage. I live in MI, so it gets cold (below freezing temp in the Winter). My garage currently is concrete and I noticed with the weather or temp changes, the concrete has water on it’s surface, but not a lot of water it’s I think what they call “sweat”.
Another question I have is the joints inside the garage, do I need to fill those with cement before tiling ? Or I need to cut the tiles to match the joints? The joints I think are 1/2″ wide, so it will be kind of obvious if I cut the tiles around the joints
Shea says
17 May, 2016 at 11:10 AMHi Wally. You will need a minimum PEI rating of 4 for a garage floor. The rating determines the hardness of the tile. Anything less runs the strong chance of cracking under the weight of a vehicle. A PEI of 1 for example isn’t even rated for foot traffic. PEI 4 rated tile are not hard to find and are often on sale at home improvement centers for around $1 per square foot.
The moisture you see occasionally when the weather changes is most likely condensation. This is fairly typical when cold concrete comes in contact with relatively warmer air masses.
In terms of the contraction joints in a garage, most people fill the joint with thinset as they go. The most important part of laying tile for a garage floor is too make sure there are no air gaps under the tile or it can break under weight. Back buttering of the tile is highly recommended. Also, for areas of cold weather it’s best to use a polymer-modified thinset to avoid freeze thaw damage.
Wally says
17 May, 2016 at 7:47 AMOh, my garage floor is currently painted (gray paint I don’t think it’s epoxy), do I need to strip the paint from the floor before tiling? Or I can tile right on top of it?
Thank you
Shea says
17 May, 2016 at 8:54 AMYou will need to remove the paint before tiling. Thinset does not stick well to it, plus, you want the thinset to adhere to the concrete for a permanent bond. Paint does not have a permanent bond to concrete.
Zeke says
19 September, 2016 at 7:43 AMMy garage has a little bit of a slope so that water flows outside. Will that affect tiling? Will water pooling be an issue? (I live in the Pacific Northwest)
Shea says
19 September, 2016 at 11:51 AMIf the garage floor slopes so that water flows to the outside, then that is ideal Zeke. You shouldn’t have any issues with pooling then if it’s laid properly.
Bryan says
9 October, 2016 at 9:06 AMGreat article. I’m interested in doing my garage in 24 x 24 black and white checkerboard. A couple of questions. I love the look of high polished but will that scratch more easily and be too slippery in a garage environment. Is there a finish I should be looking for? And my biggest problem is I can’t seem to find anyone local that stocks pure black and pure white 24″ squares. Is there a national source I could tap?
Shea says
9 October, 2016 at 1:16 PMHello Bryan. You will need to do some Google searches to try and find what you are looking for. You may want to visit a good tile store in your local area to see what they can order in. The home improvement centers have the ability to order in tile as well. As an example, we quickly found these 24″ square tiles from Floor and Decor. Many of these large national chains will send out small samples for a small fee as well. A polished tile is naturally going to be more slippery. Generally, the less shiny tiles tend to be less slippery and have a higer COF rating. In terms of ratings, you need a PEI rating of 4 or 5 for durability and a wet coefficient of friction (COF) rating of .5 or better. Our article on porcelain tile explains these ratings a bit better. If you don’t find any of these ratings listed, be sure to call or email and ask.
Linda says
2 November, 2016 at 8:01 AMWith porcelain tile how is the edge handled at the front of the garage so there is a smooth transition when entering garage. Does space need to be left around edges of garage for expansion or can tile butt up to and then cover stem wall for a neat finish?
Shea says
2 November, 2016 at 10:05 AMHello Linda. Most people use the aluminum Reno Ramp by Schluter for the entrance to the garage. It makes for a nice transition ramp. Your local home improvement centers can usually order these if they don’t carry them in stock. In terms of where the tile terminates at the stem wall; you will need to leave an approximate 1/4″ gap from the wall. You can tile up the stem wall as well. Instead of using grout in this gap, you should use a sanded caulk that matches the color of the grout you have chosen. The caulk allows for movement between the slab and stem walls.
Mark says
11 July, 2017 at 5:06 AMHey Shea,
Looking at Porcelain in my garage. I’m pouring new concrete with a slight pitch off the front of garage towards rear with a trench drain about 6 feet from door. I live in WI, however I will be heating the garage. Also, I have a Ford F250 Super Duty. Any concerns with weight / Drain?
Thanks Mark
Shea says
11 July, 2017 at 8:06 AMSounds like a nice setup Mark. No concerns at all about weight. As long as there are not air gaps under the tile, it will accept thousands of pounds withou issue. Regarding the drain, just make sure to honor the break in the concrete slope with a joint.
Dwight Mattmuller says
24 September, 2017 at 7:23 AMWas reading up on tile garage floors to see if there are any updates. I used porcelain tiles on my second garage floor 3 years ago and its holding up beautifully. I used epoxy grout in the second one and it’s bullet proof. My first garage I did not and have to clean and seal the grout lines fairly often. I used 2 inch by 6 inch bull nose for the transition. I was concerned about applying this weight of the car to the bull most since the garage floor is elevated about an inch and no issues. It’s to bad this site does not allow pictures or at least I can’t figure out a way to upload.
Has anyone used bull nose for the wall molding? This way I could hose down the floor and not worry about damaging the wood molding. The downside is I would need to cut the tile within 1/8 of an inch since the bull nose is thinner than a wood molding
Shea says
24 September, 2017 at 10:51 PMHello Dwight. It’s great to hear your porcelain tile is holding up nicely. We have heard from many people who are thrilled with the choice. Yes, we think epoxy grout is the way to go as well. It just takes a little more effort to apply – especially with the clean up of the tiles after it has set. We have seen bull nose tile used before for the front transition. It can work well if done correctly. The key with the bull nose as with all tile for the garage is to make sure there are absolutely no air pockets or gaps in the mortar when the tiles are laid.
You can send pictures if you like directly to our email, [email protected]loors.com. If they are good examples, we can feature them for others to see.
Dwight Mattmuller says
24 September, 2017 at 7:24 AMAlso for expansion joints there is a liner you can use that is glued down over the joint and extends 18 inches on either side. helps the tiles float with the floor and I have seen zero issues with my expansion joints. (I live in Ohio)
Shea says
24 September, 2017 at 10:56 PMYou are correct. They are called crack isolation membrane and can be used over concrete cracks and contraction joints.
Jim says
11 October, 2017 at 5:40 AMHi Shea
Great article, and I am hoping that it will be the solution I am looking for. I have a very sturdy wood floor garage that has a storage area underneath. It has been in continual use for 40 years. I was hoping that I would be able to cover the existing floor with plywood, (or something similar), and porcelain. What are your thoughts on how the tiles would hold up?
Thanks
Shea says
11 October, 2017 at 8:21 AMPorcelain tile is extremely durable, Jim, but the issue you will need to overcome is the wood floor flexing under weight. Wood subfloors are easily reinforced to not flex under weight of people or furniture. However, it can be difficult to ensure that a wood floor under the weight of a 3500 to 4000 lb car will not flex. Porcelain will not flex at all and can easily crack if it does.
Al says
12 October, 2017 at 4:17 PMI really want to porcelain tile my garage. It is a new build house so I was told I can’t until the floor has settled (5 yrs) by the builder.
What are your thoughts on this? I was told my 22×24 could settle 1/8″
Shea says
12 October, 2017 at 9:12 PMThat’s a new one for us Al. There really isn’t a need to wait. If the soil for the slab was prepped properly it shouldn’t settle at all. Builders don’t wait 5 years to tile the inside of a house either.
Al says
13 October, 2017 at 9:34 AMYou also don’t drive cars inside the house usually, I guess I will pay close attention to make sure they compact it well!
Shea says
13 October, 2017 at 7:40 PMHaha… Yes that’s true, Al. However, we really don’t think it’s something you should worry about. Most cracks and such generally show up within the first few months as the concrete cures.
Chuck says
5 April, 2018 at 6:35 PMWe live in NY in the Mid-Hudson Valley. My garage floor is 18 years old and has been well scarred by road salt. Do you suggest using a leveler before tiling?
Shea says
6 April, 2018 at 9:38 AMHello Chuck. If it is indeed well scarred, then yes, using a leveler beforehand to smooth it out is recommended. Thinset does fine with filling in the occasional pits and scars as you go, but if the surface is inundated with them, fixing the issue first is the way to go.
Randy says
26 August, 2018 at 1:58 PMPolished or unglazed porcelain tile for garage/shop floor? I would think glazed, but want to be certain before I purchase. Thanks
Shea says
26 August, 2018 at 6:18 PMHello Randy. You definitely do not want polished porcelain. It will get real slippery when wet. A matte finish is best as these will have the highest coefficient of friction ratings. Matte finishes are generally available in unglazed tiles.