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Due to the numerous emails, comment questions, and some unfortunate mistakes made when purchasing clear top coats for garage floor coatings, we have decided to post this article to help clear things up (no pun intended). Our objective here is to prevent some of the confusion, disappointment, and poor results some people have encountered when choosing a clear coat.
As a refresher, clear top coats have many advantages when applied to a garage floor coating. Besides creating a nice, semi-gloss to glossy finish to your color coat, clear coats lock-in and protect the color flakes and act as a sacrificial layer that protects the underlying base color coat.
The problem, however, is that some people are unknowingly purchasing the wrong product, poor product, or trying to apply a clear coat to paint.
No Clear Coats for Garage Floor Paint
The first mistake is purchasing latex acrylic garage floor paint or 1-Part epoxy paint for your garage floor with the intention of applying a clear coat to it. Paint for concrete is designed as a one-and-done product.
Technically, paint is not a coating. Unfortunately, marketing practices by the large companies that produce these products intentionally do not make that very clear, especially when they call it epoxy paint. Coatings actually seal the concrete of your garage floor while paint does not. Read here for more information about the difference between paint and coatings.
The main reason that most clear coats will not work with paint is because the majority are solvent based or has some form of solvents in it. The moment that you apply it to your water based latex garage floor paint, the paint can soften and sometimes even bleed into the clear as you are applying it.
Technically you can rough up the surface of latex paint after it has dried and apply a water based epoxy clear to it. The issue though is that it doesn’t make much sense to do so in most cases. Water based epoxy clears are generally three times more expensive than paint. If you are going to spend the money for an epoxy clear coat, you should also apply an epoxy coating to the concrete initially and not paint.
Some of these paint companies do offer an acrylic clear that can be applied to paint. Do not use it! These acrylic clear coats are water based and inferior for garage use.
They are designed for foot traffic such as patios and walk ways. They will soften, smudge, and peel the moment you spill any gasoline or brake fluid on it. Most petroleum based products such as oil or transmission fluid can cause it tor break down if it sits on it for more than a small length of time as well.
Unfortunately we have seen some online vendors of actual 2-Part epoxy garage floor coatings offer what they call a “clear glaze coat” for a clear coat. This is an acrylic product as well and people often complain of the poor performance. Again, we recommend not to use it.
Home Improvement Centers Don’t Sell Clear Coats
With some exceptions, home improvement centers and hardware stores do not offer the proper clear coats for concrete coatings. They do a good job of carrying the traditional DIY epoxy garage floor kits, but most do not carry the manufacturer’s optional clear coat to go with them. Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield and Quikrete are good examples. You generally need to special order the clear coat from the stores or purchase them from vendors on line.
We have noticed that this trend is slowly changing however. Home Depot, for example, has started carrying RockSolid’s new Polycuramine garage floor coatings and some sell the optional clear coat to go with it. Lowes sells the Valspar line of garage floor epoxy kits with the optional clear epoxy as well.
What they don’t carry at all is the commercial quality polyurethane and polyurea clear coats as well as the high solids commercial quality epoxy clear coats. We suggest reading our article on how to choose a clear top coat to get a better idea about the difference in clear coats and which type may be best for you.
As a rule, home improvement centers in general are not the best place to start your search and gather information for garage floor coatings. While they may have the product that you ultimately decide is best for you, do not rely on the information that they may provide. This article will help to explain why.
Don’t Buy Polyurethane For Wood Floors
This is an unfortunate mistake that we’ve received quite a few emails about. While we applaud the fact that these people took the time to research and learn that polyurethane has many advantages over epoxy, they didn’t take the time to read the product label of the polyurethane that they purchased and applied to their garage floor coating.
Can you guess where these polyurethane coatings were purchased? You got it — home improvement centers and hardware stores.
The polyurethane we are referring to are the water based and oil based polyurethane for wood floors and furniture. Varathane and Minwax are good examples.
This type of polyurethane is not compatible with epoxy and certainly not compatible with concrete for that matter. If applied to epoxy during the recoat window, you will end up with a yellow tinted mess that you will need to scrape up off the surface. If you are lucky, it will not have contaminated the epoxy color coat in the process.
Where Can I Buy A Clear Top Coat For My Garage Floor Coating?
If you want a clear top coat and are thinking of purchasing a traditional garage floor epoxy kit from a home improvement center, verify first that the clear coat is available from them. If not, here are some epoxy clear coat examples from Amazon that are available.
The higher performance clear coats such as polyurethane and polyurea are generally purchased through concrete coating vendors online. Many of our sponsors are good examples. These vendors specialize in concrete coatings and carry a wide variety of quality products. They specialize in garage floor coatings and are a great source of information as well.
Sherwin Williams is another source if you are looking for a brick and mortar store to purchase from. They won’t sell their best commercial quality product to the general consumer, but they do carry some good quality epoxy and polyurethane coatings for residential use.
The reason you will not find commercial quality epoxy and clear coatings at home improvement centers and hardware stores is for the simple fact they require some attention to detail to apply properly. They cannot provide the type of assistance and information required for applying these types of coatings. Most kits offered by major retailers are designed to be easily applied. This is why the quality isn’t the best when compared to product offered by the specialty vendors.
Final Tips
If you are considering a particular type of garage floor coating and are unsure about your clear coat options for that product, take advantage of the toll free number that the manufacturer provides and ask for assistance.
Stay within the manufacturer line. For example, if you apply a garage floor coating by Rust-Oleum, then the Rust-Oleum clear coat will work with your coating. This insures that you will not have any compatibility issues with your clear top coat.
If you opt for a higher performance clear coat such as polyurethane or polyurea, contact the vendor you are interested in and ask about compatibility.
If you are considering the higher performance garage floor coatings available from online vendors, take advantage of their knowledge and experience. Give them a call or email them for information. They can help qualify you and provide options based on your needs. Plus, they are great for assisting you with questions about application and concrete preparation.
Finally, if you ever have the slightest doubt about your clear top coat options, compatibility, or application, make sure to seek help from the vendor or manufacturer before you make your purchase. That way you are insured a successful outcome instead of a poor and potentially costly experience.
It’s funny that this article now says not to use a 1-part epoxy “coating” when another article lists it as an option and doesn’t mention these problems. I used this 1-part epoxy after reading an article on this website and now this other article on the same website tells me that it’s useless.
Hello Sam. We are not sure what article you are referring to where we state that clear coating “paint” is an option? We do discuss the best 1-part epoxy paint that we recommend in this article here, but it specifically states in the article that it is not intended for clear coats. Also, nowhere in our articles do we state that clear coats are recommended on paint. In addition, we point out in many of our articles that paint is not a coating.
I used Rust-Oleum’s coating kit for my garage. However, there were areas that the concrete absorbed more than others, and now it reflects the light differently because their wasn’t a thick enough layer of the epoxy resin.
I have already laid down the flakes, but the difference in reflection and overall finish of the epoxy coating (some areas still feel like concrete) is quite noticeable.
Is there a recommended clear epoxy resin that I can use as an additional coat to help do a proper seal?
Hi L.R. Rust-Oleum has an EpoxyShield Clear Coat that you can use. However, it’s not going to change the look of the color coat. It’s just going to add a layer of clear over it. If you want a color coat with uniform color and tone, it will require applying another color coat first.
Hello. I appreciate your article and all of the information provided. I actually ended up reading about 4 of your articles as I was following different links.
I want to apply a 2 part epoxy over a latex painted garage floor. Is that possible with out having to remove all of the latex paint? Is there an epoxy primer and, if so, would that be an option to help the 2 part epoxy adhere better?
Hello Mitch. It can be done with the proper prep, however, we highly advise against it and recommend removing the paint via grinding. One of the benefits of high quality coatings is that they adhere so much better to concrete than paint. Because a floor coating is only as good as what it is attached to, the resistance of future peeling and hot tire lift of your new coating system would be entirely dependent on the latex paint (not good). It’s like building a nice house on a sand foundation. If want to apply it over the paint anyways, it would require sanding the surface with 120 grit sandpaper first in order for the coating to bond to the paint.
Hello. Thank you for the advice. What if I was applying epoxy over epoxy? Should I worry about that too?
By the way, you guys are great! Thank you so much.
Epoxy over epoxy is fine, Mitch. When putting a system together it’s best to stay with the same manufacturer if you can, but sometimes that is not possible depending on the system. Resinous coatings achieve a chemical bond with additional coatings when applied within a specified recoat window (typically 24 hours). This bond can be stronger than a mechanical bond. If applying an additional outside the recoat, then it will require deglossing of the surface first via sanding.
What “Clear Coat” can I apply over “Pebble Sone?”
Hello Steven. 100% solids epoxy clear is typically used with pebble stone for application. It would also be the type of epoxy required to coat over the pebbles for indoor applications if you desire. However, it cannot be applied as a clear coating over it if it’s an outdoor application. Epoxy is not U.V. stable and will amber and chalk up with that much exposed to sunlight.
So is there anything clear I can use on Pebble Stone outdoors?
What you can use is a clear acrylic sealer. Acrylics are U.V. stable and will not amber. MMA acrylics are the most durable and what we would recommend. Here is an example. Keep in mind that acrylic sealers go on thin – thin to win. You generally apply two coats. Acrylics are not used to fill voids and level a rough surface.
I’m going to paint my basement with the epoxy shield basement kit from rust-oleum. My floor has been ground and cracks filled with their patch kit.
I’m also going to treat the concrete with radon seal to help with any water permeation .Shouldd I use a primer first before the epoxy shield?
Hello Terry. The only proper primer for a base epoxy color coat is an epoxy coating primer. These are not to be confused with concrete bonding primers which are only latex acrylic paint and not compatible with epoxy. These epoxy primers are not available from home improvement centers and are higher quality than Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield. You would be better off applying two coats of EpoxyShield (the first would act as a primer) if your goal is to get even color uniformity due to the repairs that have been made.
Can I use different brand of sealer over another brand
Hi Bob. We need more information than that. What sealers exactly are you referring to?
Hi, I just coated my garage floor with Rust-Oleum RockSolid polycuramine kit. They make a clear top coat to go with this kit however, I’m wondering if this is necessary and/or highly recommended? Has anyone had experience with the RockSolid coating without a clear coat? On one side, I don’t want to risk ruining the floor by not protecting it with a clear but then again if it’s pretty darn durable without the clear, I don’t want to waste time and money adding the top coat.
Hi Raz. A clear coat is recommended, but not required. It acts as the sacrificial layer and protects the color coat. This article here explains more.
Hello,
I am in the process of painting my garage floor. I have finished all of the prep work and painted the floor with 1 part epoxy garage floor paint yesterday. I am not happy with the outcome (streaky and too light of coverage). I will be applying a second coat tonight. I wish I would have done more research before doing all of this work. I wish that the floor had a thicker, more glossy finish. I appreciate your article because I was considering buying a gloss to put on top of my paint but now see that it is not recommended. I will not be parking a car in my garage as I intend to use it more of a game room (ping pong, air hockey, pool, darts). Do you have any advice as to any final product I could use to add a glossy finish? or should I just leave it alone after the 2nd coat of 1 part epoxy garage floor paint?
Hi Brenda. Yes, 1-part epoxy paint is not glossy. It has more of a semi-gloss to satin look. After the second coat is applied and has dried a couple of days, you can rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper and apply a water-based epoxy or polyurethane. Don’t use a solvent-based clear or it may cause the paint to bleed. The polyurethane is more water clear and will more glossy than the epoxy, but it is more expensive. Here is an example of water-based polyurethane for concrete coatings. DO NOT confuse polyurethane for wood floors with concrete coatings. More than one person has gone to their local home improvement center and bought polyurethane for wood and had a mess on their hands.
Thank you for the article, was very helpful. I did see where you suggested to stay within the manufactures product line. I put down performance epoxy coat is it turned out amazing, absolutely perfect but i did not get the clear top coat, don’t ask me why. Now i am scrambling to find a clear coat as i don’t want to sand and scuff this up and wait for the clear from original company. What would you suggest. 8 was thinking the rust oleum but not sure.
Thanks, Dave
Hi David. An important rule when applying a clear coat is that the coating should perform just as well, if not better, than color coat. If you applied a high performance epoxy, chances are that the Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield clear coat is not going to provide the same protection, nor be as glossy as the color coat you applied. You will effective reduce the gloss and the wear resistance of your coating system.
We just had a concrete floor contractor refinish our garage floors. He did a 2 part high solid in black with black grey white and chrome flake. At the time I turned down the clear coat layer. I’ve now had second thoughts and would like to do it since I consistently keep brining chrome flakes into the house. I’ve determined I can probably accomplish this top coat myself. Can you recommend any particular products top coat wise that I should be looking for? I have a Lowe’s, HD, and sherwin locally. I’m not sure of the brand that he applied all I was told is it’s for commercial buildings and airplane hangers. Any top coat and application methods suggestions would be much appreciated.
Hello Doug. Applying a clear coat is going to require that you degloss and rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper in order for the clear to adhere properly. You are going to loose some flakes in the process. Once swept / vacuumed, wipe the surface down with denatured alcohol on a microfiber mop pad. Your local home improvement stores do not carry quality commercial product. It’s all DIY residential quality and does not compare. The general rule of coatings is that the clear top coat should perform just as well if not better than the color coat. Sherwin-Williams carries a moisture cured polyurethane called ArmorSeal Rexthane. It would be better than anything you can find at a home improvement center, but it’s still not considered a top quality clear coat. We would recommend purchasing a polyurethane or single-part polyurea clear from an actual concrete coating vendor that sells commercial coatings.
Are you familiar with any sika products?
We applied sikgard 550 acrylic 1 part to our floors today, I was under the impression it was gonna be a mix epoxy, 2 days to prep the floor 1000sqft.
I’d like to add clear, but I feel like we just wasted our money, any recommendations??
Hi Aaron. If it’s the 1-part Elastocolor 550W you are referring to, then what you applied is a 1-part epoxy paint. We don’t recommend trying to apply anything else over it or you will just be throwing good money at bad for the reasons we state in the article. If you want an actual quality epoxy coating or similar, it will require grinding to remove what you just applied.
Hi Shea..
embarrassed to be writing to you again but you’ve been the only reliable resource so far.
A reminder.. polished stained concrete residential basement floor (uncertain if sealed by installer). DIY Rustoleum epoxyshield 2 years ago for shine and protection. Looked good x1 year, but easily scratched and abraded. Some areas of exposed polished concrete where rustoleum has worn thin.
Floor has been diy sanded 80 grit.
Realize our installer should have never advised us to epoxy as our floor is polished with no ability to bond.
SW Commercial store recommended their K1 single part low solids water based polyurethane product. Thoughts?
Doesn’t sound like adding another epoxy layer is a good idea.
Is the only true option to chemically strip and use sealer products actually meant for polished concrete?
Goal is maintaining the aesthetic of the stained polished concrete with concurrent durability (from stains, spills) and higher shine preferred.
Every. Single. Person. Has said something different 🤯
Hi Kristen. Your questions and another from a reader are very similar if not the same. I will quote here what I just replied to him.
“Hi Tom. All we can really do is advise. We are assuming the concrete company is not the one who actually polished your floor. The people who polished it would know better than to try and apply a coating. Polyurethane does not adhere well to standard concrete and it for sure is not going to adhere much if at all on polished concrete. If you sanded the polished concrete where the coating lifted, then the gloss is most likely gone. This generally requires a fine re-polish to bring that back. And to do that properly, it will require stripping the remaining epoxy in order for the full floor to match up properly. At this point you would want to apply a guard sealer. This would be the proper way to fix the floor.
Applying an epoxy over it will bring the gloss back, but you are going to encounter the same problem with delamination as you did with the Rust-Oleum. An acrylic can be applied (very thin coats) and it may even adhere slightly better than the epoxy, but it’s not going to be nearly as durable. Also, there will be a cosmetic difference where it coats the bare concrete vs the concrete that still has epoxy on it.”
The Sherwin-Williams ArmorSeal 1K shows in their literature here on page 3 that an epoxy primer should be used. However, if you read the data sheets for it, it can be applied to bare concrete that has been properly profiled if you thin the first coat at least 10% with water. However, polished concrete that has been sanded is not a properly prepped surface. You are still going to encounter the same issues with delamination at some point.
I just finished half of my garage floor with rock solid dark gray with chips
Looks nice bu there are a few patches that have no gloss.
Will applying a clear coat over all of it even it out with a gloss?
Can I use epoxyshield clear over the rock solid? That is only what is currently available to me.
Thank you
Hi David. Those spots with no gloss is due to the coating being too thin. When that happens, it effectively alters the color tone and reduces the gloss. Applying a clear coat will not fix the issue. The issue is with the color coat. You would need to apply another coat of RockSolid to fix it. RockSolid allows up to 7 days to apply another coat of RockSolid (clear or color). EpoxyShield clear will not adhere properly after 3 days.
Hello, I used Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Garage Floor Kit on my patio. I need a topcoat. Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Clear Garage Floor Top Coat Kit is for interior. So I’m stuck with having no clue about which product to use for outdoor. Since the one I used is 2 part epoxy, I’m not sure if I can use Seal Krete epoxy seal as the label says that it should not be used with water/oil based 2 part epoxy. Please help with a suggestion.
Hello Ann. Unfortunately, the EpoxyShield Garage Floor kit should not used outdoors as well. Epoxy is an indoor coating. When exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight, the coating will amber (turn yellow tint). When exposed for a long period of time, the epoxy can even begin to deteriorate by chalking up. You need to completely cover the epoxy with a product that is rated for outdoors. You may want to consider DuraGrade Concrete by Rust Bullet. We have an article about it here. It’s a single-part polyurethane that is rated for outdoor use. You would need to degloss the epoxy coating by roughing it up with 120 grit sandpaper before applying DuraGrade. You can apply a color coat and a clear coat if you like.
I just put Seal-Krete Epoxy-Seal 1-part Charcoal Gray Satin Epoxy Garage floor paint on my garage floor. It does not have a gloss.
Can i put Seal-Krete 1-Part Clear Gloss Garage Floor Epoxy (Gallon) on top of it to get the Gloss i want. The can is the same product line as the Epoxy floor paint which is Seal-Krete and it says on the can that it is for painted and bear concrete.
Hi Michael. 1-part epoxy paints are not intended for clear coats and are designed as a stand alone product since they are not a true epoxy coating. I suggest that you read the top half of this article again, as we discuss the exact situation you are asking about, including why you should not use an acrylic clear coat. In fact, we use the exact product you are mentioning as an example. As you eluded to with a second comment, the Seal-Krete clear is an acrylic. It’s not epoxy. We do not recommended it for the reasons stated above.
If you really want to apply a clear coat, then we recommend using a water-based 2-part epoxy. It will require sanding the current surface with 120 grit sandpaper in order for the epoxy to adhere properly.
Hi,
I just finished applying Rock Solid dark gray with color flakes to my garage floor. It turned out pretty nice although I was a bit heavy-handed with the color flakes. I waited 1 day and applied Rock Solid clear over the top to seal in the color flakes better. The problem I had with the clear product is that it was difficult to see exactly where it had been applied; much easier with the color product. Now, 1 day later, I noticed that my clear application was not very even in places. I feel like I need to apply another coat to those areas. I am still only 1 day post application. My first question is whether it makes sense to spot treat those uneven areas and my second is whether I can use Epoxy Shield clear instead of the more expensive and less available (locally) Rock Solid Clear. They are both Rustoleum products but one is epoxy and the other is Polycuramine. Thanks! Larry
Hi Larry. Yes, it’s very important to pay attention when applying the clear coat as it can be hard to see at times. We do not recommend that you go back over to spot treat sections. Coatings do not blend well like paint on a wall. Every spot you touch up is going to show the overlap marks and stand out even more. The best way to correct mistakes like that is to apply another full coat. This also will give you the chance to sand out any roller marks or cosmetic defects if you like. That’s up to you. We recommend that you stay with the RockSolid clear coat. EpoxyShield is an epoxy, while RockSolid is proprietary mix of epoxy, polyurethane, and polyurea. It has a higher abrasion rating than EpoxyShield, it’s glossier, and it will allow you up to 7 days before you have to apply it without further prep being required. In addition, you would need to check with Rust-Oleum to see if EpoxyShield is compatible with RockSolid for a chemical bond in the within the recoat window. If not, it would require waiting a few days and then roughing up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper before application.
Thanks for all of the helpful info. Do you know if I could use Permaguard Max clear top coat over Rustolium garage floor coating kit? Having a hard time finding the same brand.
Thank you!
Which Rust-Oleum garage flooring kit exactly are you referring to, Tabatha?
Sorry I didn’t specify. Rocksolid. I just applied today and was hoping to apply the top coat tomorrow since it is going to rain almost every day after that. I can find Permaguard at my local Floor and Decor. Half the price too 😬
OK, I’m glad we asked. The only clear coat that is going to be compatible for a chemical bond will be RockSolid clear. RockSolid is a proprietary blend of epoxy, polyurethane, and polyurea. It’s not just an epoxy. As a result, other clear coatings (including epoxy) have not been tested for chemical recoat adhesion. The coating you mention can be applied, but it will first require that you wait a few days for the RockSolid coat to cure enough. You would then need to degloss the surface by roughing it up with 120-150 grit sandpaper in order for the epoxy clear to obtain a mechanical bond. How soon could you get the RockSolid clear if you order it? RockSolid is the only coating that allows for up to a 7 day window to recoat with more RockSolid without further prep.
I’m glad I asked. I’m going to check my local hardware stores tomorrow. Amazon won’t deliver until next Thursday. Thank you so much for the quick response.
I can find the Epoxy Shield clear finish. Would that be compatible? No RockSolid clear anywhere. Thanks again
No, it’s not compatible for a chemical bond upon recoat. Just because it’s a Rust-Oleum brand, it doesn’t mean you can apply any Rust-Oleum product on it. RockSolid was originally manufactured by Citadel Floors. Rust-Oleum bought the company and inherited the RockSolid line. It was not developed by Rust-Oleum. You can learn about RockSolid in our review here. As I stated, if you go with anything other than RockSolid, it will require deglossing and roughing up the current surface in order for the different coating to mechanically bond. Once you do that, you will be fine.
Can I apply a polyurethane gloss clear coat over Seal Krete acrylic floor paint?
Their product does not give enough gloss look.
Hi Walter. No, you cannot apply a polyurethane over acrylic paint for the reasons explained in the article above.
Thanks for quick response. I know we should have not used this paint product. Do you recommend anything else that would give us a good protective gloss clear coat over the acrylic?
As we state in the article, Walter, water-based epoxy is the only coating that you can apply to it that will provide that. It will require roughing up the paint with 120 grit sandpaper first. However, you are really throwing good money after bad. The epoxy will cost three times as much as the paint and it’s still highly susceptible to hot tire pickup since the epoxy is attached to the paint and not the concrete. It’s like building a nice house on a sand foundation.
Hello,
After throughly reading your articles, thanks. I would like some advise on final choices. I have applied paint with epoxy already, I’m resolved to make limited choices from here. My home with 2 car garage was built in 66′ being previously painted, with limited paint remaining. I chose to forgo striping the paint. But did use a scraper and sanded with 150grit. Blew out, swept, and cleaned thoroughly concrete surface. Applied 2 coats of Rust-oleum 1 gal. Concrete and Garage Interior/Exterior Re-coat Primer , which was dried throughly, applied black BEHR PREMIUM® INTERIOR/EXTERIOR CONCRETE & GARAGE SELF-PRIMING 1-PART EPOXY, dried 7 days; painted same BEHR PREMIUM® INTERIOR/EXTERIOR CONCRETE & GARAGE SELF-PRIMING 1-PART EPOXY in white and grey for checkerboard design.
Wanting to preserve the design a bit better, have been doing research for a clear coat. Coming up with several options.
1. BEHR PREMIUM® CONCRETE, BRICK & TILE WET-LOOK SEALER
2. Armor Poxy – ARMORULTRA LOW V.O.C CLEAR 2-PART TOPCOAT
3. Legacy Industrial – HD6000 WB URETHANE GLOSS COATING
4. Sherwin-Williams Armorseal Rexthane I
5.Rustoleum – HIGH PERFORMANCE 9700 System 250 VOC Acrylic Polyester Urethane
I’m leaning towards option 2, 5, or 1. Using the garage for Hummer parking, 2 motorcycle, Handy lift (https://www.handyindustries.com/sam-1200) for motorcycle maintenance and art studio. Please advise.
Hi Phillip. You are severely limited in choices for a clear coat due to the water-based acrylic paint that you used (despite some epoxy resin being added). As we state in the article, 1-part epoxy is not designed for clear coats. Choices 3,4, and 5 cannot be used because they are solvent-based. The solvent can cause the paint to soften and/or bleed upon application and make a real mess. Choice one is a water-based acrylic and the only clear that can be applied without further prep. However, water-based acrylics are the least durable of coatings and are best for foot traffic. Solvents and other spilled chemicals will soften and smear the surface when cleaned. Choice 2 is the best choice. It’s a 100% solids epoxy that is 5 times thicker upon application than the current paint. It has no solvents or water to act as a carrier agent and will not have an adverse reaction with the paint.
In terms of performance, it’s a commercial quality coating with long wear, high gloss, and high resistance to chemicals, solvents, and petroleum products. It may help resist the possibility of hot tire pickup, but it is not a guarantee to prevent it – particularly with the SUV. The reason is because it would be adhered to paint and not concrete or a true coating (paint is not coating). Paint is the least resistant to hot tire pickup and does not adhere to concrete as well as coatings do. Hopefully you won’t have an issue, but we want you to be aware. In terms of application, it will require that you rough up the paint with 120 grit sandpaper first in order for the coating to create a mechanical bond with the paint.
Hi Shea,
That’s a big help. I do understand my limitations. Understanding what the big box’s stores are selling and labeling is so misleading. However, looks like I might have a work around; with option 2. Thanks for taking the time to explain, the process of application.
Secondly. Where the Hummer will be parking longer periods of time, it’s used for recreational purposes only and limited work around the house. Wondering if there might be something I could place ontop of the clear coat, to act as a barrier between the tires and surface. Thinking of something like the non-skid stick-on thing, like for steps or mat. Do you know of something for tires?
Thirdly, after sanding with 120grit sandpaper and applying the topcoating, how long before I should drive my SUV back ontop?
You will want to wait 48 hours before moving things into the garage and 5 days before parking vehicles. A mat or similar will work fine for protecting against the coating. The tires will not hurt the clear coat. However, if they grab at the clear coat as they cool, they may pull it up with the paint since the paint is what is ultimately adhered to the concrete.
Hi Shea,
Looks like there out of stock. Starting to look more locally, since we live in SF Bay Area. Was wanting to look from products at this local company. Would you mind looking through there products to advise?
Link:
https://store.concreteexchange.com/collections/resinous-flooring
Thanks Phillip
The Westcoat EC-36 is what you need. It’s a 100% solids clear epoxy that can be used as a topcoat.
Can you put an epoxy over the clear coat?
Hello Floyd. What type of clear coat exactly are you referring to?
Hello Shea,
I used the Rust-Oleum Concrete & Garage Clear Finish Topcoat. It says for bare or coated concrete.
I started with the Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield in the gray color.
24 hrs later, I put the clear finish top coat on. Everything was ok, until about 30 or 40 minutes later, somewhat of a rust color started to bleed through in a few areas of the floor. About 6 or 7 hours later, I wiped a small area off with a multi-purpose cleaner, it “somewhat” cleaned it, but also lightened the gray.
How can I fix this problem?
Thank you
It sounds like the concrete may have not been fully dry throughout before the color coat was applied, Floyd. Moisture vapor from within the concrete could have still been escaping and slowly getting through the color coat since it was not fully cured yet. This moisture can turn color from the minerals within. Once the clear coat was applied, that moisture could get through easier and blead out. There’s not much you can do about it cosmetically when that happens since you are dealing with both the color coat and clear coat. Any attempted cosmetic repair is going to be just as noticeable. You can apply a color coat back over the clear if that was what you were thinking of doing. Rust-Oleum allows for up to 72 hours between recoats for EpoxyShield. If you are outside that window, then it will require that you degloss the surface by roughing it up with 120 grit sandpaper before applying the color coat.
Hey there! Great website and comments.
I’m putting down 100% solids Daihard epoxy tinted on my new garage. I intend on full-flaking it too.
Looking for a topcoat recommendation to go over the full-flake epoxy application once it’s down.
Hi Robert. One of the advantages to a full flake application is that the color flakes are U.V. stable. As a result, if you apply a U.V. stable clear coat you won’t have any issues with ambering. Make sure to scrape the flakes well and do not exceed the 250 sq. ft. coverage rate or the coating may become too thin for full flakes. Full flakes also absorb a lot of clear coat and can require multiple coats if you don’t want a real rough texture. We would recommend two coats of a clear single-part polyurea if don’t want too rough of a texture. This company here tends to provide the most material for your dollar. Polyurethane would work as well, but you would need a minimum of two coats since it is goes on much thinner. Do not mistake the polyurethane for wood floors that is available from your local home improvement stores with polyurethane for concrete.