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Why should I apply a clear top coat to my epoxy garage floor coating? This is a reasonable question that pops up from time to time for the average home owner looking to save some money. The real question however ought to be why wouldn’t you apply a clear coat? After all, there are many benefits to adding a clear top coat over the color coat for a garage floor.
Anyone who has installed a garage floor coating properly will tell you that the hardest and most time consuming part is prepping the floor for the epoxy. Applying the epoxy goes fast and for many, it is the fun part of the job. So after all that work of getting the concrete ready, why wouldn’t you want to spend a little more time and money to ensure a longer lasting and even more beautiful floor coating?
With various clear coating options to choose from, epoxy or polyurethane is the most common choice. The same benefits can apply to the use of polyurea or polyaspartic floor coatings as well. So to answer these questions, let’s take a look at the top 10 reasons why you should apply a clear top coat to your epoxy garage floor.
1. Adds durability and wear
A clear coat will add durability to your garage floor coating and create for a longer wearing surface. The additional coat also adds thickness to the floor coating which helps to eliminate hot tire lift and absorb impacts better.
2. Protects the color coat
Because the clear coat acts as a sacrificial layer, the epoxy color coat will be protected. Without it, the colored epoxy coat can lose its luster from wear. Though resistant to most chemicals, some oil spills or leaks that are allowed to sit for long periods can discolor the coating depending on the quality of epoxy you applied.
3. Protects the color flakes
If you applied paint chips or color flakes to your floor, the clear coat will protect them from peeling up and collecting dirt. Since the color flakes are partially embedded into the epoxy, dirt and grime can collect in and around the edges of the flakes making it harder to keep clean depending on how much color flake was applied.
Cleaning of the floor and other activities can also cause color flakes to pull up or chip away. When a clear coat is added, the color flakes are protected by the layer of clear that is over them.
4. It is easier to clean
With a clear coat over the color flakes, the floor is also easier to clean. Dust mops can just glide over the floor without catching color flakes as it goes. This is especially true if you have a heavy flake coverage on your floor. It also allows for aggressive scrubbing if necessary without worry of losing color flakes or dulling the color coat.
5. Adds depth to the floor coating
The additional layer of a clear top coat actually adds depth to the look of the garage floor. This creates for a richer looking surface that appears more luxurious and much thicker than it really is.
6. Creates a glossier looking finish
Depending on which type of clear coat you decide on, the clear will add a glossy shine to the floor that will reflect light even better than the color coat. Polyurethane coatings are sometimes available in different levels of gloss.
This is a great benefit for projects in the garage or for working on cars simply because it creates more light. It may also mean that you will not have to purchase more overhead lighting like you thought you might need.
7. It hides scratches better
All garage floor coatings will develop microscopic and sometimes larger scratches in the surface of the coating. A clear top coat helps to hide or camouflage most of these scratches so they are less noticeable and do not detract from the looks of the floor. The reason for this is that the clear top coat will act as the sacrificial layer and prevents the color coat from being damaged.
8. It’s a good medium for anti-slip additives
Anti-slip additives are hidden much better in a clear coat. Since most additives are translucent in color they will not stand out. Without a clear top coat they are added to the color coat instead. This makes the anti-slip granules much more visible as little bumps resembling sandpaper on the garage floor.
9. Can be recoated to look new again
After many years of use, an epoxy garage floor coating can start to show its age depending on how much activity it has seen. If it had a clear top coat of epoxy or polyurethane, it can easily be roughed up with sandpaper and have a new coat of clear applied.
The sanding of the old top coat removes any blemishes, scratches, and other imperfections that the floor coating acquired over the years. Once the new clear coat is applied, your garage floor coating will look brand new again.
10. It just looks awesome!
When you compare a color coated epoxy garage floor that has a top coat of clear to one that does not, there is no question about which looks better. The clear coat is what gives the garage floor that extra depth and showroom shine that screams “look at me!”
So if you’re on the fence about whether or not to add a clear top coat to your garage floor coating, think about all the benefits that it will provide in the long term. Yes, it will cost a little more money and yes, it may mean one more day of being without your garage. However once you do, you will be rewarded with a garage floor to be proud of for years to come and you will be glad that you did it.
Update – Please read
There is one important note to make. Clear coats are designed for application over 2-Part resinous coatings and some single part moisture cured resinous coatings. Do not confuse garage floor paint or 1-Part epoxy paint as a floor coating. These are latex based paints that will not form a chemical bond with a resinous coating.
Technically, you could rough up the finish of dried floor paint and apply a water based epoxy as a clear coat. It will have a limited increase in durability of the floor coating however due to the fact you are limited by the initial properties of the base paint underneath. Most other clear coats are not suitable due to their solvent base. They can actually soften these paints upon application and cause them to pull up from the concrete.
I just painted my new shop floor with Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield with color chips. The concrete was poured 6 months ago so no issues with that. I cleaned and prepared the floor before painting with the etching as directed. The finished look has blotchy areas where the epoxy dried heavier and roller marks where it was too thin. Some areas are shiny and some not so much. The floor temperature was only 50 degrees when applied. Could this be a reason for the dried look? Also, can I just apply a sealer over top this without sanding to give it a clean and clear finished look? What would you recommend? Thanks
Hi Jeff. Roller marks are typically caused when pressing too hard or pressing to stretch the epoxy out. This will also result in the epoxy being too thin in areas and creating color tone and gloss issues. Coatings should never be stretched and the roller should always remain wet and somewhat heavy with material. Also, the instructions clearly state not to apply it and let it cure in temps lower than 60 degrees. Are you sure it has cured? Assuming it has, the only way to fix it would be to degloss and rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper and apply another color coat. A clear coat will not fix the issue. If anything, it just highlights the problems.
Hey Shea, I just bought a new home and it’s coming with an epoxy floor installed by the builder. However at first look and feel the clearcoat on top is so thin at first I didn’t even think it was there. I haven’t done epoxy floors in the past it makes me believe that either cut it with some solvent or xylene it can’t be a build thickness more than 1 mm it really feels rough enough chips just flake right out, But I can tell if someone’s on there because it pulled in the cracks and it has a very very late sheen. My question is can I go back over and now having been done probably five or six months ago and put it on there nobody’s ever pulled into the garage or used the garage I’m wondering if I could just sand it up a little bit mop it and vacuum it out and then apply a poly top coat and get good adhesion. Do you think I can go back over this with a couple coats? If so what steps would you advise.
Hello Matt. If you are certain that the coating is adhered well, then you can apply more coatings over it. If it’s not adhered well, it doesn’t matter what you apply on top because it will still peel up and expose bare concrete. We have an article here that discusses the prep required.
Thanks Shea, what a great article.
Is there any ‘Go-To’ top coat you like best for a 2-part epoxy install with full-chip broadcast floor? I was looking at Rexthane as a possibility.
Hi Matt. Rexthane is a polyurethane coating that has to be applied thin. When going with a full color flake floor, you will need a minimum of three coats if you want to smooth out some of the rough texture of the flakes. We really like single-part polyurea. It’s over twice as thick than Rexthane once cured. Two coats on a full flake floor makes for an excellent clear coat. In addition, it wears much better than Rexthane. We are assuming you are applying the flakes into a high solids epoxy or other coating with a minimum dry film thickness of 5-6 mils? If not, all those color flakes will not adhere very well because the coating is not thick enough to accept them well.
Can you apply Rust-Oleum epoxy shield clear over a full broadcast flake finish with a Rust-Oleum polycuramine base ?
Hello John. Yes, you could apply Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Clear over a full broadcast of flakes. It would require a minimum of two coats and preferably three. EpoxyShield Clear is a thin coating. The first coat will get absorbed by all the nooks and crannies of the flakes and will require two more coats to start smoothing things out a bit. What you can’t do though is apply a full color flake broadcast into Rust-Oleum Polycurmine. Like EpoxyShield it’s too thin of a coating to accept all those flakes. You a high solids commercial epoxy or polyurea as your base color coat to broadcast all those flakes into. It requires a minimum dry film thickness 6 mils for the flakes to adhere properly. Polycurmine is half of that.
Can you apply rust-oleum clear coat on top of a 1 part concrete epoxy? Or does it have to be put on top of rust-oleum epoxy shield?
Hi Yovanie. Paint is not intended to be coated with epoxy. However, if the Rust-Oleum clear coat is water-based then it can be applied. It will require that you first rough up the paint with 120 grit sandpaper first in order for the coating to apply. If it’s solvent-based, it will soften the paint and can cause it to bleed through the clear coat.
Quick question: What’s the best clear coat option in terms of finishing and durability to apply over epoxyshield garage floor coating?
Polyurethane, Rocksolid Polycuramine or epoxyshield premium clear coat?
I really hope you can help. I already have a box of Rocksolid but I wanna do the right thing.
Thanks
Hello Claudio. Have you applied the EpoxyShield coating yet?
Hi Shea, I have not. what do you suggest?
Thanks
If you are going to apply EpoxyShield, then we recommend staying within their line and apply the EpoxyShield clear coat. The reason for this is that when using non commercial quality residential kits like these, you will void all manufacture warranties when using a different product with it. The home improvement store DIY kits like these are not known for their high quality and you want to make sure you have some recourse if you have an issue.
Thanks again… You got me to reconsider… What are your thoughts on Sherwin…. Armorseal 8100?
Cheers
It’s slightly better than EpoxyShield. If you use ArmorSeal 8100, then you would really boost the overall performance by applying their ArmorSeal Rexthane I. It’s a moisture cured polyurethane with much higher abrasion ratings than ArmorSeal 8100 and it’s more scratch resistant. This would be a better performing system than EpoxyShield color and clear coat.
If it’s in the budget and you want something that is easy to apply, yet is a commercial quality coating system that will last 10-15 years or more, then we would recommend single-part polyurea.
Hi Shea,
Thank you for all your suggestions on this site. I have referred to many of them for installation of my epoxy garage floor.
I just finished installing 100% epoxy by Epoxy-Coat. However, the process was not without issues. I had a few surprises and made a few errors along the way; and as a result, I had to do much more work than what I bargained for. One of the errors happened in my last step of laying down two-part clear coat. Racing against time, my wife and I decided to speed up the process by rolling the coat with two rollers; however, I used one of the old rollers I had previously used for wall painting. It looked very clean free of any paint but during the clear coating process it must have left some contaminants on the floor. Consequently, I have several small spikes and craters in the clear coat. I am thinking of sanding the clear coat with 120 grit sandpaper and recoating it. Questions – Will I see the streaks from the sanding process after I recoat it? Will sanding produce cloudy surface where even after a fresh clear coat, I won’t see the true color of the epoxy and the flakes? Should I be concerned about any other issues and so is it better to just leave it the way it is?
Thanks for your help as always,
Hi Vijay. No worries about the clear coat. It can be fixed just as you suggest. Sanding between coats is a trick the pros use when doing metallic epoxy floors and garage floors without color flakes. It makes everything real smooth and glassy looking. The sanding will degloss and dull out the finish (which is necessary). You can use a heavier grit if necessary to smooth things out. Once sanded, sweep / vacuum and then wipe down the surface with denatured alcohol applied liberally to a microfiber mop pad. This will get any remaining dust and clean up the surface. Isopropyl alcohol will work if you your state does not sell denatured alcohol. A few minutes later you will be ready to go. As a tip, it’s always a good idea to have an extra new and clean roller on standby in case something happens 🙂 The new coat will make the color pop and everything will look glossy again.
Excellent. Thank you again. It gives me reassurance as I don’t want to make any more mistakes. Will keep extra new roller on the stand by. 🙂
One more quick question Shea in continuation of my earlier question,
After reading your other post, I realized that instead of applying another layer of clear coat, I might as well apply polyurethane to give the floor scratch resistance and UV protection. Again similar questions, Can I apply poly on top of the existing clear coat? Will cloudiness from sanding the clear coat show with polyurethane coat or will it be clear and shiny showing the richness of the base coat and the flakes? Thanks!
The same applies for any coating, Vijay. You can apply the polyurethane and you will have a more durable wear surface.
Can I apply Armorseal Rexthane I as a clear coat after I used
Rust-Oleum 304780 EpoxyShield Professional Floor Coating Kit, Silver Gray?
Hi Roz. Yes, you can. It requires that you apply it within 24 hours of applying the EpoxyShield Pro. If you wait longer than that, you will need to rough up and degloss the surface with 120 grit sandpaper first before application of Rexthane I.
Ty for your reply. It has been 48 hours now. Not sure I want to rough it up again. Do you recommend using their own brand Epoxy Shield Clear Finish Coat?
EpoxyShield allows for up to 76 hours for a recoat when using products within the EpoxyShield line. If you go outside that window, then the same procedure for roughing up the surface first applies. Of the two, Rexthane is going to provide longer wear.
Hi Shea, It has been 8 days since I used the EpoxyShield 2-Part Gray Gloss Garage Floor Epoxy Kit on my garage floors. It has had no traffic. Do I still need to sand the floor before applying the topcoat? 🙁 Will that affect the flakes and the gray color? If sanding is needed, would you recommend Rexthane I over Epoxy Clear coat?
He Lerone. Yes, you will need to rough up and degloss the surface first or the Rexthane will not adhere properly. You will lose some color flakes in the process, but not too many if they were applied to the coating soon enough to sink in and take hold. Rexthane is longer wearing and more chemical resistant clear coat than EpoxyShield clear. In addition it will not amber (yellow tint) if exposed to direct sunlight.
I just epoxy shielded my garage and want to add a clear coat on top. From what I’m reading 2 to 3 coats of clear? Is that correct?
Also how long do i wait between epoxy shield being done and clear coat? Thanks!
Hello Chris. If using the EpoxyShield clear coat, Rust-Oleum allows up to 72 hours to apply an additional coat without further prep. Past that, you will need to rough up and degloss the surface first with 120 grit sandpaper. If you are using a product other than EpoxyShield, then you have 24 hours to apply the clear coat. Two clear coats are more than sufficient.
Would the Rustoleum epoxy shield clear Coat work well to coat a stained concrete with nothing else on it?
And should I be worried about traction in the garage/shop floor. I live in South Dakota and the shop floor is going to unfortunately have some wet spots in winter and I don’t want a huge slip trip and fall issue despite the floors looking great and easy to sweep, maintain and clean
Hi Herb. We are assuming you are referring to decorative stained concrete and not oil stained 🙂 Did you use an acid stain or a water-based stain / dye? Was the floor prepped in any other way such as etching or grinding?
Acid based stain
Etched
Concrete needs to be prepped properly via etching or grinding for most coatings. An acid stain actually etches the concrete when it goes to work. As a result, the concrete should be OK for a coating. EpoxyShield clear will work. If it does not come with the kit, we recommend purchasing the Rust-Oleum anti-slip media to mix in with coating. This helps to provide an anti-slip surface when it gets wet.
Just as an FYI, Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield is considered a budget epoxy. It will last a few years before it shows wear or develops hot tire pickup. If you want something that will perform much better, we would suggest a single-part polyurea. It is actually easier to apply, it’s almost twice as thick for a single coat of clear, it will last 3x longer or more, and is more tolerant of road salts and deicing fluids. In addition, epoxy can amber (turn yellow tint) if exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight. Polyurea is U.V. stable and will not do that. This particular product here is an excellent example if you want to learn more.
I’m planning to apply a Dy-Mark Epoxy Coat Garage Floor Kit. What would be a good clear coat on top of it?
Hi Paolo. We had to look this one up since it’s not available in the states. According to the data sheets, it appears to be a budget friendly, low solids, water-based epoxy. We recommend applying the same product in clear if they have it. The general rule is that the clear coat should always perform just as well, if not better than, the color coat. If they don’t have a clear epoxy, then we would recommend a clear polyurethane for concrete (not wood floors and furniture). The polyurethane will be more expensive, but it will have much better abrasion resistance (longer wear) and chemical resistance. Plus, it will be U.V. stable and not turn a yellow tint if exposed to sunlight.
Thanks for the recommendation. I saw this clear polyurethane coating available – Crommelin DiamondCoat Polyurethane Concrete Floor Finish, and I hope it works. Is it better to add the slip resistive additive? If so, how much shall I put?
Hello Paolo. That particular polyurethane is water-based. It’s not going to perform as well as single-part or two-part solvent-based polyurethane. In addition, water-based polyurethanes tend develop brown tire prints on the surface that are hard to remove. If using an polymer anti-slip media, you will want to use 3-4 oz. per gallon of coating. Makes sure to keep it mixed or it will settle to the bottom of your tray and get applied in clumps.
Hi Shea.
In regards to the dymark product.
Is it possible or OK to use the rustoleum clear coat kit on top of this epoxy base?
Thanks in advance
Hi Terry. Yes, it should work fine with that epoxy.
Hello I work with a wildlife sanctuary and we just did the two coats of seal krete epoxy-seal concrete and garage floor paint. We deal with move tables, caging and high traffic and want to make this floor last. The floor was done years ago but didn’t last long due to these issues. Armor seal 8100 was recommended but is out of stock at our local stores and we need this floor done in the next week or two due to animal volume. What top coat can we use to get the best out of our floor?
Hi Toni. Yikes… Unfortunately, what was applied is just an acrylic latex concrete paint with a little bit of epoxy resin added to make it more durable than standard paint. It is not an epoxy coating. It will not last under the conditions that you describe. In addition, it is not compatible with nor intended for a durable clear coat. It’s a stand alone product. This article here explains why and discusses options. ArmorSeal 8100 or any other type of true epoxy coating would have been a much better choice.
The only real option (as discussed in the article) is to sand the surface with 120 grit sandpaper and apply a water-based or 100% solids epoxy clear coat. Neither will have solvents in it that can soften the paint. This one by Rust-Oleum is a good example of what would work. The surface is much more durable than the paint and should stand up to the abuse you describe for quite a while.
I applied the light gray rustooleum 2 part epoxy garage floor package. It’s done and drying. Looks good but I feel like it could be thicker. I put my hand to it after 8 hours and I feel the flakes. Should I apply a coat of the rust oleum clear ?
Thanks
Hi Jordon. The reason you feel the the flakes is because a clear topcoat has not been applied to cover them. We would recommend applying the clear Rust-Oleum for the reasons mentioned above, one of which is to protect the color flakes. Rust-Oleum provides a 72 hour recoat window before further prep of the new coating is required.
What clear coat can or should I use?
Use Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield clear coat. Try to find it at your local home improvement store if you can so that you don’t go past the 72 hour recoat window. Otherwise, you will need to degloss and rough up the coating with 120 grit sandpaper first before applying it.
A few comments up you suggested a better product would be a single -part polyurea? When I google that a ton come up and it’s actually cheaper…. I put on the 2 part grey about 24 hours ago…
The problem is that the 72 hour recoat window is for Rust-Oleum products only. They are formulated to work that way together. If you go with a different manufacturer you are required to adhere to the standard 24 recoat window. This means roughing up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper first. This is an example of single-part polyurea that we would recommend. Keep in mind it’s going to be more expensive. Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield is a budget, thin mil DIY residential coating whereas single-part polyurea is a thicker mil, commercial quality coating. You aren’t going to find products like this at your local home improvement center or paint store.
If I put more than one coat of Rust-Oleum clearcoat epoxy on garage floor do I need anti slip additive in every coat?
Hi Larry. Anti-slip additive is only added to the final coat.
Shea
I j epoxy coated my garage floor and added the clear coat. Now the wife what’s the flakes to be added. The clear has dried for four days. Can I roll on another coat of clear then add flakes when its wet? After it is dry roll on one or two coats of clear over the flaked sections .
Richard
Hello Richard. What product/s exactly did you use?
Shea
I purchased the products at Home Depot and used their recommendation. Sorry I threw the cans in the trash I don’t know the name of the product. I assume it was a Home Depot product. I could go back and ask the sales person in their paint department.
Hi Richard. The problem is that each manufacturer has specific requirements in terms of recoating. You stated you used an actual epoxy. Based on that, you most likely are outside the recoat window. If you want to apply color flakes, it will require two coats of clear. You will first need to degloss and rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper in order for the coating to adhere. After that, apply the first coat of clear and the corresponding color flakes as you go. You would then coat over the color flakes with the second coat of clear.
I put down a coat of epoxyshield clear topcoat today, 2 days after my second epoxyshield epoxy coat. It seems to look good except for a few missed spots; but for those, I wouldn’t do a second coat. If I get another kit can I just touch up those spots with a roller, or would that leave bad looking marks? I’m worried I’ll miss spots again if I do a full second coat and be in a similar situation (plus it would require two new kits).
Rustoleum customer service thought it could work out if I do it tomorrow, but wasn’t confident in that answer.
Thank you for all the helpful information on this site.
Hi Cliff. I think I just answered your question on the GJ as well. The touchups will stand out just as much. Coatings do not blend like paint on a wall. If your goal is to not see those spots, then you will need to do the entire floor. The exception would be if you have contraction joints that act as a natural border. If the spots are contained in one section, then you can just coat that entire section only.
I applied 1 kit of rust oleum professional 2 part dark grey epoxy on a 20×20 garage floor prepped the 8 year old concrete and applied a very heavy broadcast of 1/4” chips -approximately 18 lbs, then 48 hours later I applied 2 kits – one heavy coat of rust oleum epoxy clear with anti skid, Unfortunately, even though I used 2 kits I see high lows. I called rust oleum and was told I put the clear on too heavy. They told me to sand the entire floor with 80-100 grit sandpaper then reapply another kit of rust oleum very lightly and that should cover the entire garage floor, what are your thoughts on this? I tried sanding a small area with 80 grit and a sander and the area still has a sheen and made the area smoother, is this due to the heavy clear coat?
Hi Jim. Rust-Oleum should not be applied thick or you can have a variety of issues. Only commercial quality 100% solids epoxy can be applied like that. It’s important to follow Rust-Oleums recommended coverage rates. Two coats should have been applied and not one thick one. They are correct about sanding and applying another coat. Heavy flake application creates a surface with many nooks, crannies, and valleys. Sandpaper does not always conform well to such a surface. A floor maintainer with a black or green scrub pad slowly run across the surface (dry) will accomplish the same thing. The squishy pads conform better to the rough surface. The goal is to degloss the current coating. Once you do, sweep / vac and wipe the surface down with denatured alcohol (or equivalent) applied liberally to a microfiber mop pad. After that, you should be good to go.
Thanks, it appears even with the 80 grid sandpaper on a electric sander I’m still not able to get to a dull finish. There is still a luster on the floor due to the heavy clear coat. I spent over 2-3 hours sanding the floor and washing, blowing and cleaning the floor of any dust. After all this work, do you think by applying a thin clear coat of the Rust Oleum clear will adhere to the floor? Thanks for your help!
Make sure you are not sanding all the high points on the surface, Jim. As I stated, sandpaper does not follow the contours of the nooks and valleys very well between all those flakes. The idea is not to sand epoxy down, but rather to degloss. The floor should have a slight haze to it. If that is where you are at, then it should adhere. Make sure to do the chemical wipe.
Thanks,, I took your advice and cleaned the floor with denatured alcohol and used a 3/8″ nap roller to apply a very thin coat of the Rust Oleum clear coat with the antiskid. I just made it with one kit of the clear on the 19’x19′ garage floor.
Floor looks much better with very few high/lows as before. Applying the Rust Oleum clear can be difficult as you cannot go over the same areas since you will see a different sheen in the floor and also easy to miss a spot when applying. I think people should be aware if using a heavy broadcast of chips 1 clear coat may not be enough, a 2nd light coat and maybe even a 3rd may be necessary to achieve a consistent finish
Great! Glad to hear it worked out well for you, Jim.
Hello Shea,
Im getting ready to Epoxy my garage floor, will do it in 2 sections as its about 70m2 and have too things (am fine with a visual line where the sections meet)
My prep is to fix all the chips, fill the cracks and grind down the concrete, will i need to do any other prep?
As for the epoxy im leaning towards the Rust-Oleum epoxy shield kit as its easily availably in Australia, I will purchase several more 5kg flakes so the entire floor is covered.
Let it sit overnight and the next morning remove the excess flakes with a scraper and vacuum.
Then apply top coat, Ive chosen a good quality Polyaspartic clear.
Is there any changes i should make or any recommendations?
Thanks Pat
Hello Pat. The concrete prep you describe is fine. The primary problem is your epoxy choice and for a variety of reasons. Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield is a thin, low solids, water-based epoxy that incorporates old technology/formulas. It’s a cheap, DIY residential quality epoxy that only lasts for a few years or so. It provides a dry film thickness of approximately 3 mils when applied to etched concrete. It will be even thinner when applied to concrete treated to grinding since more epoxy will be absorbed. Full color flake coverage requires a minimum of 5-6 mils dry film thickness in order to get all those flakes to adhere properly. You can’t apply EpoxyShield in one thick coat or it will not cure correctly. Lastly, it’s the weak link in the system. If you applied much fewer color flakes and then applied the polyaspartic clear coat, you would still experience hot tire pickup.
The type of coating system you desire requires a higher quality, higher solids epoxy that has a minimum DFT of 5-6 mils. A good polyurea or polyaspartic would provide the proper DFT as well. We would recommend checking with the vendor that you are purchasing the polyaspartic from. They should be able to provide the proper base color coat that you would need. We did a quick google search and came across this company here. There are more like it as well that can provide the type of coating that you need for a full color flake application.
Thanks for the reply Shea,
I have contacted the website you provided, They recommended i use sikafloor 264T also mentioned its one of the most popular products used in Australia commercially. I mentioned about a full flake application which also works.
Hi Pat. That is an excellent example of the type of epoxy coating that should be used for a full color flake application.
Appreciate the help Shea, I must admit getting back to new comments from an article dated 2016 is amazing, love the commitment.
Another Question regarding grinding the floor. As im doing the coating in two sections, thinking im better off grinding the entire garage, and is it ok to leave the other half with everything and cars stored for a week or should i apply a primer then store the cars and parts?
Yes, that is fine pat. Just make sure to keep it clean. The profile of the concrete will not change after the grinding.