One primary objective for many homeowners is to seal the concrete of their garage floor in order to protect it from water intrusion, dusting, road salts, pitting, and most importantly, to help resist stains. If you are looking for the best value and without concern about having the latest decorative finish or coating for your garage floor, then a siliconate penetrating concrete sealer may be all that you need.
Why? Although decorative garage floor coatings such as epoxy look great and do a good job of sealing the concrete, there are people who have simple “working” garages. They are not as concerned about how nice a concrete sealer looks, but rather how well it performs without a lot of expense and preparation. If you think this may be you, then here is why you need to consider a siliconate concrete sealer.
What makes a siliconate sealer different than a coating is the fact that it actually penetrates (hence the name) into the concrete to create a protective barrier at the subsurface. They are also very easy to apply. Typically, the only bare concrete preparation required is to properly clean it first.
Other garage floor sealers such as acrylic, epoxy, and polyurethanes are topical in nature. They sit on top of the surface to form a protective film or coating.
With some exceptions, most topical sealers require additional concrete preparation other than cleaning in order for them to adhere properly. This can include sanding, etching, or even grinding the concrete surface.
Once applied, a siliconate sealer works by permeating into the pores of the concrete and chemically reacting with carbon dioxide. This reaction creates a cross-linking molecular membrane barrier that is almost gel-like and hydrophobic in nature.
This hydrophobic barrier is effective at repelling water and other liquids such as chemicals, and salty brines. In essence, water, automotive fluids, and most other liquids will tend to bead or sheet on the concrete instead.
How a siliconate penetrating sealer works on a concrete garage floor
Furthermore, the chemical reaction that fills the pores and capillaries within the upper surface of the slab has the additional benefit of slightly strengthening the surface of the concrete as well. While not as effective as a densifier for surface strength, it does help with surface wear nonetheless.
Concrete Siliconate Sealer Benefits
- Forms a hydrophobic barrier to help prevent intrusion of water and other liquids
- Reduces dirt buildup and deep staining
- Works to prevent pitting, spalling, and surface cracks from water absorption
- Reduces and may even prevent efflorescence
- Helps to prevent the harmful effects of road salts and deicing fluids
- Inhibits mold and mildew growth
- Breathable, water-based, and low in VOCs
- Excellent for garage floors, driveways, walkways, patios, and basement floors
- Low cost delivers one of the best values in concrete sealers
As stated, additional benefits to consider include mold and mildew resistance as well as protection from the harmful effects of road salts and deicing fluids. This means that if your garage temperatures drop below freezing overnight, the surface will be protected from the pitting and spalling that can occur due to the expanding effects of freeze-thaw cycles from melted snow and deicing fluids that can seep into the concrete.
Siliconate sealers dry to a natural-looking finish without any sheen. And because a penetrating sealer is non-film forming, it allows for the same anti-slip protection as bare concrete.
Furthermore, you don’t have to worry about damaging the sealer if you drag sharp objects across the garage floor when working on cars or projects. They are also a favorite concrete sealer for driveways, walkways, and patios.
Other factors to consider are expense and ease of application. This is what makes a siliconate concrete sealer for your garage floor one of the best values you can find.
Most 2-car garages will require only one or two gallons of sealer depending on the manufacturer. Cost is usually less than $50 a gallon for a quality product and application is much easier than applying a coating or even paint for that matter. Expect it to last up to 10 years or more before a new application is necessary.
One thing to be aware of is that concrete penetrating sealers do not seal cracks. Cracks will still need to be repaired first in order to seal the garage floor properly.
This post may contain affiliate links. If you use these links to make a purchase, we may earn a small commission. As an Amazon Associate, All Garage Floors earns from qualifying purchases. You can read our full disclaimer here.
Best Siliconate sealers that we recommend
There are two products we like to recommend that work extremely well and get great reviews.
The first is PS101 by Concrete Sealers USA. This siliconate sealer has a strong reputation for great performance and is known for lasting years. In fact, the reviews are outstanding.
It only wears down as the concrete wears down and can also be used as a “cure and seal” for new concrete.
Application is easy with no special mixing required. Expect a coverage rate of 300 – 450 ft² per gallon for machine troweled and smooth finishes.
Purchase PS101 Concrete Sealer – 1 Gallon
Purchase PS101 Concrete Sealer – 5 Gallons
If you like shopping from Amazon, you can find PS101 there as well.
Purchase PS101 – 1 Gallon From Amazon
Purchase PS101 – 5 Gallon From Amazon
Important to note; if you plan on using a siliconate sealer for a broom finish surface, Concrete Sealers USA recommends their PS102 Concrete Sealer.
PS102 also works extremely well for driveways, walkways, and patios. The reason for this is that these types of finishes are typically more porous than a steel troweled or machine troweled garage floor. PS102 is formulated for the more porous surface that these finishes provide.
Purchase PS102 Concrete Sealer
Expect a coverage rate of 200-300ft² per gallon of PS102 when applied to these types of surfaces. Just like the PS101, it can also be used as a “cure and seal” for newly poured concrete.
The second product we can recommend is Armor SC25 by Foundation Armor. Besides garage floors, this penetrating siliconate sealer is developing a strong reputation for use on driveways, walkways, patios, and basements.
The coverage rate is 200 – 250 ft² for machine troweled or smooth dense surfaces. Expect 100 – 150 ft² for a broom finish or rough surface.
Just as the PS101, SC25 is water-based and no special mixing is required. One note to make is that Foundation Armor does not recommend SC25 as a “cure and seal” for freshly poured concrete.
Purchase SC25 from Amazon – 1 Gallon
Purchase SC25 from Amazon – 5 Gallon
One thing to pay close attention to is the spelling of ingredients for some penetrating sealers. For example, a popular seller at home improvement centers is silicone sealers. Notice the difference? Silicone versus siliconate. It’s easy to miss this.
We do not recommend a silicone sealer for traffic areas such as a garage floor or outside on walkways, driveways, and patios. The reason is that they tend to sit more on top of the surface and do not penetrate as well.
Though they have good hydrophobic and oleophobic properties, they wear down at the surface extremely quickly and lose their sealing properties. Yearly reapplication is recommended. They also are not U.V. resistant and will deteriorate over time when exposed to sunlight.
Will a siliconate sealer stop oil stains in concrete?
This is one point that we want to make clear. Though siliconate concrete sealers can be somewhat resistant to oil stains, they are not stain-proof. In fact, there is not a penetrating sealer available that is. Only a commercial quality garage floor coating will provide close to stain-proof oil protection.
The reason for this is that penetrating sealers are non-film forming. Unlike coatings, they seal the concrete at the subsurface. However, what makes siliconate sealers unique is that they consist of a relatively larger molecular structure than many other types of penetrating sealers. This allows for better surface protection and better resistance to stains.
The best protection from oil stains when using a penetrating sealer is to clean them up as soon as you see them. Don’t let them dwell or sit for a long time. If they do sit, they will eventually seep into the very upper layer of the concrete surface and can leave a faint stain once cleaned.
If resisting oil stains are one of your primary concerns when choosing a penetrating sealer, then we suggest you read our review of PS100 Oil & Salt Repelling Sealer by Concrete Sealers USA.
In addition, GhostShield has a combination system for oil repellency that uses penetrating sealers as well. You can read our review of GhostShield 8510 and learn how this system works.
Applying a penetrating sealer to your garage floor
Make sure the surface of the garage floor is free of dust and oil. Clean up any oil spills that may have accumulated and scrub the surface of your garage floor with TSP and a stiff-bristled brush. A floor maintainer with a black pad works even better.
Rinse off the surface with a hose and let it thoroughly dry – usually, 24 hours is sufficient unless the humidity is up. When ready, apply the sealer with a low-pressure pump sprayer or roller and paintbrush. Do not let it puddle till dry or it will leave a white chalky substance that is hard to remove. The area should be ready for traffic in 12 hours. That’s it!
Once done, you will have a natural-looking surface that is protected for the next 10 years or more depending on traffic. So if you are the no-frills, “working” garage type of person that wants to protect their garage floor with minimal preparation and expense, then a siliconate penetrating garage floor sealer is definitely worthy of your consideration.
Will says
I am considering a siliconate sealer for my garage and have a couple of questions.
1. Is there any type of stain that can be used prior to the siliconate sealer to dress it up a bit?
2. If budget and time allow in the future, can the floor be ground and an epoxy floor laid over the garage if a siliconate sealer has been used?
Thanks for the great website!
Will says
Just saw your post from yesterday (https://allgaragefloors.com/concrete-densifier-sealer/) that answered both my questions. Thanks!
Shea says
Thanks for the kudos Will and we are glad that we have helped.
Damien says
I have an epoxy garage floor. My wife used a dish soap on the floor and it left a large area that appears to be a white film. The problem is that it doesn’t was off. Any suggestions?
Shea says
Hello Damien. Dish soap can leave a film on the surface. Try cleaning with a solution of 1/4 cup ammonia to 1/2 gallon of hot water.
Terry H says
Very informative article. My question is concerning if penetrating sealers (siliconate sealer) can they damage in-floor PEX tubing for radiant floor heating? Our garage which is over our basement has spancrete planks and they poured 3”-4” concrete over top of a rubber membrane. For now the geothermal only circulates the fluids through the ground so it keeps the concrete temp around 50deg in the spring/summer/fall but someday it will be heated to keep the garage & loft warmer in the winter too. It was poured 3 years ago and this year I finished the basement so want to insure that none of the melting snow seeps to the new basement ceiling.
Thanks for your help!
Shea says
Thanks Terry for visiting our site. Penetrating siliconate sealers have been used on concrete that has in-floor PEX tubing without any issues. They only penetrate the upper surface of the concrete and even then should not pose a problem. We always recommend that you contact the manufacturer if you aren’t sure about compatibility issues of any product.
Matt says
Hi I am in Norfolk England trying to get hold of some of this siliconate sealer for my garage floor. I’m going out of my mind as this article sums up exactly what I need , any ideas?
Shea says
Hello Matt and welcome from across the pond. I’m not sure where you can purchase it in England. You can try contacting this company to see if they ship there. If not, I would ask them for a recommendation.
R walsh says
I am pouring a 28×36 barn concrete floor now, can I use a siliconate penetrating sealer right away? Will it help keep the cement moist to cure better?
Shea says
A penetrating sealer wont help with the curing process with newly pored concrete. What you want to apply is a quality cure and seal product. When applied, it forms a thin membrane over the concrete that helps with water retention in the cement hydration process while it cures. Once the surface of the concrete dries and hardens it leaves a thin film of sealer on the surface. It can be reapplied after the concrete cures to increase the film thickness of the sealer. The one drawback to using cure/seal products however is that they have to be removed by grinding if you plan on any additional coatings for the concrete in the future.
Jason says
I’m about to tackle my garage floor repair project and this website has been a great resource!
At first I thought I should do epoxy or polyurethane, but this article has me reconsidering. I live in Canada and I think that the siliconate is a great non-slip alternative. Also the salt resistance is another bonus.
Just wanted to know what I should use as filler for cracks and pitting… What would be a good, cost-effective solution?
Thanks for your help!
Shea says
Hello Jason. Siliconate penetrating sealers are a good cost reducing alternative to protecting your garage floor from the elements as compared to a quality epoxy floor. Just keep in mind that the anti-slip properties are the same as your bare concrete is now. If you go this route, make sure the product you purchase is a siliconate and not a mixture of siloxanes and silanes.
For repairing cracks, we recommend a polyurethane or polyurea crack repair product. If you decide to seal your floor with a penetrating sealer, then use a polymer modified patch repair product for the pitting. The sealer will work with that kind of repair.
Marko Tse says
Hi Shea,
I was wondering why a concrete sealer with siloxanes and silanes is not as good as a siliconate? I’m from Canada and having trouble finding a siliconate concrete sealer for my garage floor. Also, my garage floor is less than 2 years old, but I already have an oil stain. Will this be detrimental to applying a concrete sealer?
Thanks for the helpful article!
Shea says
Hi Marko. Silane siloxane mixes tend to penetrate deeper into the concrete and require a heavier application to be as effective as siliconate sealers at the surface. If you can find a good penetrating sealer with a silane siloxane mix, then you should be OK. Just make sure to clean the oil spot best you can with a degreaser before you apply it.
Gilles Senechal says
What would be a brand name for the silconate sealer and is there a retailer in Ottawa Canada?
Thanks for your help and good literature on concrete sealers.
Gilles
Shea says
Hello Gilles. You can contact V-Seal and Concrete Sealers USA to see if they ship to Canada. They both make good siliconate penetrating sealers.
Pat says
Can I cover the penetrating sealer with paint?
Shea says
Hello Pat. You could paint the floor with a latex paint but it would not adhere very well because of the silicone in the pores of the concrete. You would need to grind the floor first for the best results. If you want to paint the floor then you shouldn’t seal it.
Pat says
Is there anything you would recommend that would dress up the floor surface, after using the sealer?
Shea says
Pat, a siliconate penetrating sealer is designed as a final treatment for sealing a concrete floor. If you want something to dress up the surface then you need to look at topical sealers such as acrylic or epoxy for example. You would only apply a penetrating sealer to the floor before a topical sealer if you have some other underlying issue with moisture from under the slab. If that was the case then a siliconate penetrating sealer is not the right choice. You would need a silane sealer or equivalent which is deep penetrating and does not lie at the surface.
Brent says
Great information here. I was wanting to find out if this siliconate sealer would help keep oil leaks from vehicles from staining the concrete. Im in central texas so freeze /thaw is not really an issue here. Im looking for low maintenance long lasting protection and this sounds like it as long as it helps keep oil stains from happening in my garage and on my driveway.
Shea says
Thanks for the visit Brent. Siliconate sealers do provide good long lasting protection and they do help at resisting oil stains but they will not prevent oil stains. If you don’t allow the oil to sit long it will usually wipe right up with some Simple Green or a light scrub of Tide detergent or concrete degreaser. If they sit for a long time they can leave a darker impression in the concrete that will not come up as easily.
AK Agarwal says
Thanks for a very informative article. I have a tandem garage that I may be converting it to a room in the future. Is it possible to put a tile floor or some other type or finished floor on top of a floor that has been sealed with Siliconate?
Shea says
Hello AK. Yes you can. Since a siliconate sealer is a penetrating sealer, it doesn’t leave a topical film that would interfere with thinset, glue, or other topical coatings.
karen says
I have a 40 yr old garage where the orginal paint is long gone. I have a lot of spalling and more than 4% moisture. I would like very much to seal the floor and have read so much of your tips and am confused as which route to go. I am afraid of the epoxy due to moisture on the floor however I do need to do something. What would you recommend?
Shea says
Hi Karen. You have a couple of choices. The first is to clean the floor well including removing salt residue if you live in a snowy climate and repair any spalling that you feel necessary. After that, you can apply a penetrating sealer such as this one available from Amazon. It will protect your concrete from freeze thaw issues, salt, water penetration, and will slow down significantly water vapor transmission from below the slab. In effect, it’s a low cost solution to protecting your garage floor from anymore damage.
Your second choice would be an epoxy coating. Manufacturers of epoxy make special moisture blocking epoxy primers that would need to be applied first. They block MVT rates as high as 20 lbs. A flooring such as this would be expensive and would best be applied by a qualified contractor. You would have a beautiful floor, but expect to pay somewhere in the neighborhood of $6 a square foot for everything required.
David says
What a fantastic website! Our 8 year old bare cement garage floor has effloresence and moisture coming in through the slab, worst where there are a couple of cracks, but moisture is intruding through the concrete itself. Based on the info here, I’m thinking that a good cleaning (what is TSP?) is needed, then I’ll fill the cracks. Since I want to stop/reduce the infiltration, I want to use a deep penetrating sealant. We also want the surface to look better, so it’d be great if I could then use some kind of epoxy coating. I was originally thinking siliconate would be the best penetrant, but to then put on a surface coat, would silane be better? And would polymer modified patch repair be the best crack filler? Top priority is reducing the moisture, but better looks would be nice if also possible.
Shea says
Hello David and thanks for the kudos. You are on the right track with using a penetrating sealer first before applying epoxy. Because silane is deep penetrating and of a smaller molecular structure, you will need to apply it heavily and most likely in a couple of coats. They can be very effective for what you want to do. Good silanes are more expensive however. Since you will need to grind the garage floor for epoxy after applying a penetrating sealer, a quality siliconate sealer will still work well and is less expensive.
Clean your floor first and then apply the sealer. Make sure the concrete is very dry before applying the sealer and use fans if necessary over the areas where you have the moisture issues. Once sufficient time has passed for it to cure, do a moisture test of the floor in these problem areas. Providing the floor passes the moisture test, you will need to grind the concrete next in preparation for epoxy. Acid etching will not be very effective since the remnants of the sealer will be present on the surface. Once you grind it, go ahead with the crack repairs. We have a post here on the proper materials to use. After that, you should have a great surface in which to apply the epoxy.
David says
Thank you so much.
David says
Hello again – things are finally getting dry enough for me to deal with this… One clarification: whether I use silane or siliconate as the deep penetrating sealer, I will still need to grind the floor before applying the epoxy, right? Or can I avoid grinding if I use the siliconate?
Shea says
You are correct. Regardless of the penetrating sealer used, you will still need to profile the concrete correctly to apply epoxy.
David says
Right… TSP is trisodium phosphate… (Just found it in the tool room!)
Parris says
Hi, we have a relatively new garage floor. It has a lot of hairline cracks. Will we need to do something with those cracks before using the recommended product?
Shea says
Hello Parris. If they are truly hairline cracks then no, you will not need to do anything with them before applying a penetrating sealer.
Sean says
This is a great site, thanks. I live in upstate New York and have a 20 year old garage floor starting to show light spalling and pitting. Can I address the spalling/pitting with EpoxyShield Concrete Resurfacer by Rust-Oleum, and thereafter seal the floor with one of these siliconate sealers? Are they compatible?
Shea says
We needed to edit the original answer in quotes for Sean and any who may be reading these comments.
“Hi Sean. Yes, they are compatible. Though the Concrete Resurfacer is an EpoxyShield product, it does not have epoxy in it. It’s a modified cementitious resurfacer which means you can use a sealer on it.”
Sean contacted Concrete Sealers USA about the compatibility of their PS-101 penetrating sealer with the Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Concrete Resurfacer. Like us, they looked at the TDS sheet for the product and saw that it was cementitious, but they could not substantiate for sure that the PS-101 would penetrate and react with the cementitious material since Rust-Oleum uses a resin in their mix. To his credit, Sean then contacted Rust-Oleum to ask them about compatibility. Rust-Oleum responded back that it was not compatible and that an acrylic topical sealer should be used instead.
In the meantime, we were contacted by Concrete Sealers USA about our experience with the Rust-Oleum product. While we have known of contractors who have had good results with penetrating sealers used on polymer-modified cementitious products in the past, there was no reason to believe it would not be fine with Rust-Oleum – that is until Chris from Concrete Sealers USA brought up the question about the resins.
Long story short, Sean did what any good DIY installer should do and that is check with the manufacturer if you have any doubt about compatibility. Concrete Sealers USA provided great customer service in the process and we are glad that Sean was able to get the answers he needed. Our goal at All Garage Floors is to provide the best information we can for our readers and we wanted to present this new information for anyone looking at a similar project.
AJGSyc says
So glad I stumbled upon this site! You saved me from what would have been an expensive mistake (i.e., polyurea coating for pitted garage floor with vapor issues) a week away from the start of the project!
I have a garage floor, as I mentioned, that has moderate pitting issues, poor quality paint that has worn off roughly half the floor, and I believe vapor issues. My primary concern is repairing and sealing the floor for durability and protection, and I’m not so concern about the appearance.
Do you think using siliconate sealer is a good choice for me? Any guidance on what floor preparation steps I should take? Thanks!
Shea says
Hi AJGSyc. If you have moderate pitting issues plus old paint, your first step would be to grind the surface in order to remove the old paint plus any weak or loose concrete damaged by the pitting. After that you can apply a penetrating sealer. It will slow down if not stop your vapor issues (providing they are not severe) and it will also protect your concrete from the damage of road salts and deicing fluids that you are concerned about. A siliconate sealer is good choice for this. You will want to apply a minimum of two applications.
AJGSyc says
Thanks so much! Very helpful!
AJGSyc says
Thanks again for the info. A few more questions….
You said I should apply a minimum of two applications. How many would be optimal? How do you determine when enough applications have been applied?
Also, how long do you have to wait between applications?
Thanks!
Shea says
The TDS sheets are usually available from the vendor or manufacturer and application information comes with the product. Usually a few hours between coats. Two coats is the minimum to apply when a floor has been profiled by grinding or acid etching. Usually the sealer will not penetrate after more than three coats.
karen says
I have tried a lot of your recommendations and then some to get 30 yr. old imbedded oil off my garage floor. I now found Terminator HSD and am willing to try. How long after using it can I put a penetrating sealer on.
Shea says
Hi Karen. You can apply a penetrating sealer as soon as the concrete will absorb water and not repel it. Keep us posted on how the Terminator HSD works for you!
Karen says
Will let you know how terminator works. Can I paint a color after using Siliconate and if so what is recommended and how long after sealer is applied should I wait.
Shea says
You need to wait 72 hours before applying anything over it. You can read up on paint for a garage floor here.
Sarah says
Thanks for all of your great details on this site! I live in the beautiful, yet swampy and humid city of Savannah, where we have torrential downpours daily during the summer. My garage is used for work storage and when it rains heavily, some water not only rolls up to the door from the driveway (which will be addressed soon), but wicks up our garage floor such that it puddles in the middle. We bought the house 2 years ago and don’t have a history on if any treatments were done to the garage, though I’d imagine they weren’t by the looks. With such a surface moisture issue and aesthetics not beings a concern, would a surface sealer be the best option for us or would I need a deeper sealer and then a surface preparation? What is the general threshold for moisture content in both the atmosphere or concrete for the preparation stage?
Shea says
Hi Sarah. With that much water being wicked up from under the slab, you are going to need a deep penetrating sealer that acts more like a moisture vapor barrier. Densifiers and penetrating sealers designed to protect the surface of concrete would slow it up quite a bit, but most likely would not stop it. We recommend that you contact Enduro Seal and talk with them. They have such sealers that are designed for serious water intrusion issues such as basements would get.
The application threshold really depends on the product. Some can be applied to damp floors in high humidity conditions while others require a very dry floor. Most are limited to a temperature range of 55 to 90 degrees for application.
Matt says
I have a one year old 400sqft garage floor and live in an area that will have at least one car bringing in snow and salts at least four months out of the year. Is a penetrating sealer truly enough to protect from salts and whatever may get tracked in or is a 2 part epoxy a better option?
Price is a consideration but more importantly I don’t want to be doing this again 2 or 3 years down the road.
Thanks
Shea says
Hello Matt. A siliconate penetrating sealer is excellent for such a purpose. Once applied, it never needs reapplication. We just released a new article here about a new penetrating sealer that provides for the same protection and repels oils as well. If cosmetics are not a concern and your main goal is to protect from winter weather, then these are great products.
If you want something that looks good, is mostly stain proof, and protects and seals as well, then a quality epoxy system would be the way to go.
Karen says
I am finally ready to apply a siliconate sealer on my Pennsylvania garage floor after etching it. However temps are in the 60’s for a high and 40’s for a low. Should I wait till spring. Also can I apply DryLoc 1step on top of sealer without further prep after sealer is applied
Shea says
Hi Karen. As long as the concrete is prepped according to DryLoc instructions before you apply a penetrating sealer you will be fine. The DryLoc can go right over it. You can apply most sealers as long as the temperature of the concrete is in the 50’s. Just check the instructions of the product you want to use. If you can get it down before winter hits your floor will be better off for it.
Chad says
I live in Western Canada (long winters, lots of salt and sand/gravel use). For the previous 15+ years I lived in a condo with bare concrete underground parking and was able to observe what years of salt and sand and gravel did to the bare concrete. The concrete was noticeably damaged in the four places where all of the salty gravel accumulated from the tires and wheel wells. I think a lot of the damage was from the gravel and not just salt, though I’m not sure. There was no freeze-thaw cycle in this heated garage, but over the years significant spalling still developed.
We’ve now moved to a new home with new concrete in the heated 20’x20′ garage. As the salt and gravel accumulate on my new garage floor I’m trying to figure out the best way to protect it without spending a fortune. While I love the look of an epoxy or polyaspartic coating, my concern is primarily protection and not a show-room look. (Though that would be a nice bonus. I was considering trying out the EpoxyMaster DIY kit from Costco until I came across this page. I also got a $2200 quote for a professionally ZG-SHIELD polyurea coating, and the appeal of being done with it in a day is strong.)
But if I don’t have to go to that kind of trouble and expense, maybe I won’t.
Would a siliconate sealer (or a densifier and then a siliconate sealer) really be adequate to protect the floor from long-term damage from all of that sand, gravel, and salt? I understand it can seal against the salt, but what about the abrasion from the sand and gravel? I’m not expecting to ever let it freeze in there, so I don’t know if the freeze-thaw protection is as important anyway.
Shea says
Hello Chad. You have asked some great questions. Salt can be very corrosive when introduced to concrete regardless of weather conditions. Over a period of time, it can cause the surface to weaken and break apart. Freeze/thaw only accelerates the process.
Epoxy alone will protect the concrete from salt damage and a professionally installed polyurea coating will do even better. The only downfall is the sand and gravel you mention. While salt and deicing fluids usually don’t have an affect on the coating if it’s cleaned occasionally, the sand and gravel you mention can act like sandpaper and degloss or dull the surface in a season or two where the cars drive on it. If you use a containment mat during these months, you can avoid that issue all together.
A much less expensive option would be to apply a penetrating sealer that works in conjunction with a densifier. We have an article on such a system here. The densifier would strengthen the surface, protecting it from the abrasion of sand and gravel, while the penetrating sealer will prevent any salt intrusion. Such a system would last years and is easy to apply. You can check with the respective vendors and manufacturers about shipping to Canada. A siliconate sealer will work well also, but it cannot be applied over a densifier due to the larger molecular structure. You may also need to reapply it every few years or so due to the aggressive environment.
Wilson says
I’ve had problems with tire marks and dust (brake dust and general grit)on my garage. I just cleaned the garage with diluted Behr etch and clean. The garage floor looks like new. Prior to moving my car back into the garage again Im considering sealing the floor, perhaps with the ps101. My goal would be general protection of the floor and easier cleaning in the future. It would be great to hose or scrub off the tire marks instead of having it embedded in the concrete.
I’m not looking for any sheen or color changes and I don’t want to epoxy. Just something simple.
Do you think the ps101 might help?
Shea says
Hi Wilson. Yes, penetrating sealers like PS101 will definitely be a good candidate. It will not change the look of the concrete and will make cleaning things off the surface much easier.
Brad G says
Can these types of treatments be used under Nohr-S without grinding the floor?
Shea says
No, they generally can’t Brad. However, it’s always wise to consult with the manufacturer first.
Ken Liu says
Love the website and I appreciate all the great information! I have a 30+ year old 2-car garage. The floor is very dusty in which I think it caused by the multiple cracks it has, where moisture travels up from underneath the slab and brings up some dirt, then as the water dries, it leaves the floor looking dusty.
I will be using one of the deep penetrating sealers you have recommended. My concern is how or when to repair the cracks? As to when, I am thinking it has to be done prior to applying the penetrating sealer so that the sealer also covers and protects to repair. I guess I am looking for confirmation of this? And how to repair cracks of this nature?
Shea says
Hi Ken. Actual concrete dusting is not caused by cracks in the concrete, but rather from the surface of the concrete itself. There are many reasons for the condition, with the most common being from improper finishing techniques that leaves the uppermost layer of the concrete surface soft. No matter how often you clean it, it has a white dusty residue a few days later.
You always want to perform any concrete or crack repairs first before applying any type of sealer or coating. Crack repairs are not affected by sealers since a properly repaired crack is actually sealed due to the repair and material used.
Scott Walker says
Great information, thanks! Here in Alaska I have a new-construction concrete-floored garage, and I’d like to do two things before moving in: I want to seal it to reduce the concrete and prevent staining, and I’d like to increase my shoes’ ability to grip on wet concrete (lots of “wet” here in Anchorage). Sounds like I’m looking for two different products? What might be easily applied after (or with??) a siliconate sealer? Stay well!
Scott W
Shea says
Hello Scott. If you want to increase your grip on wet concrete you will need a topical coating with an anti-slip grip additive. Penetrating sealers retain the same grip as the bare concrete. We recommend that you take a look at this MMA acrylic sealer by Legacy Industrial. The article highlights the HD6525, but they also have an HD6600 that is used extensively on the concrete floors of fisheries in Alaska. With either sealer you can add the anti-slip additive to increase the wet grip. Contact Legacy Industrial and ask for Scotty. He can assist you with any questions that you may have.