With the ever-increasing trend for epoxy garage floors, manufacturers and vendors have gradually begun introducing coatings other than epoxy for the DIY market, some with good success. SPGX polyurea by ArmorPoxy is an example of one such product. When Eric from the windy city of Chicago discovered that ArmorPoxy was offering this new coating at a discounted price for a limited time, he eagerly took the opportunity to try it out and give SPGX a review.
It used to be that many of these alternative coatings were exclusive only to contractors. Professional installers used them solely due to the experience required to apply them. Polyurea and polyaspartic coatings are a good example. However, manufacturers have become aware of the increasing interest in these coatings for the DIY market and have started to introduce formulas that are easier to use.
SPGX was no exception to this exclusivity until it was applied at the National 9/11 Memorial Museum. Because ArmorPoxy began to receive numerous phone calls and inquiries about the coating, they decided to make it available to the general public due to its relative ease of application.
What is SPGX?
SPGX is a single-component cross-linked polyurea coating for concrete. Single component means that, unlike epoxy, you don’t have to mix in a separate hardener for the material to cure. It also has a much longer pot life that doesn’t put a short time limit on the application. You can pour it right out of the can and into your paint tray just like paint.
Formulated from a blend of polyaspartic, polyurea, and polyurethane properties, SPGX is a tough coating that is UV stable (won’t yellow) with a high gloss finish. It’s highly resistant to abrasion, impact, chemicals, and all common automotive fluids. It can be applied as a clear coating over bare concrete or as a system consisting of a colored base coat, optional color flakes, and a clear top coat. Thi is what Eric did for his garage.
The coverage rate of SPGX is 275-400ft²/gal depending on the addition of color flakes, the surface texture, and the porosity of the concrete. It’s available in Gray, Tan, and Clear. Something to be aware of is that SPGX is packaged in clear only. ArmorPoxy provides color pigment packs at an additional charge. This is typical of all single-part polyureas. The color pack is mixed into the clear before application to obtain your color of choice.
Additionally, SPGX is also a great top coat option for those wanting to color stain their garage floor. ArmorPoxy states that SPGX is compatible as a clear top coat for most other epoxy floor coatings as well.
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Supplies purchased
Eric decided to apply a system using a gray base coat, color flakes, and a clear top coat with an anti-slip additive. With a large 3-car garage of approximately 850ft², he initially ordered and put together the following products and supplies. We have provided a red link to some of these products for those interested.
- 4 – Gallons of ArmorPoxy SPGX
- 2 – gray color pigment packs (added at checkout)
- 2 – packs of anti-slip
- 2 – gallons of ArmorPoxy acid etch
- 7.5lbs – color flakes
- 12 – SherMax Urethanized Elastomeric Sealant
- 4 – 18” ¼ nap Wooster Epoxy Glide roller covers
- 2 – Wooster 21” paint trays
- 1 – Wooster 18” roller frame
- 1 – Shur-Line 48” fixed painters pole
- 4 – 6.5” 3/4″ core mini rollers and frame (Sherwin Williams)
- 1 – Economy garden pump sprayer
- Miscellaneous chip brushes
- Plastic gloves, rags, and acetone for cleanup
For those who may have noticed, Eric was a bit too conservative with the initial purchase of only four gallons of SPGX – two gallons for each coat. With a maximum 400ft² per/gal coverage rate under optimum conditions, he soon found out that four gallons were not enough for 850ft².
SPGX coating systems are now available in kit form. Check below for pricing.
SPGX application
On the first day, Eric worked on prepping the garage floor for the coating. After cleaning the concrete, he applied the acid etch solution with the garden sprayer at a 3:1 ratio of water to acid. Following the instructions, he let the solution set for 20-30 minutes before washing it out with a garden hose and pressure nozzle. He then let the concrete dry for a couple of days.
His next step after the concrete had dried was to fill the contraction joints flush with the SherMax Urethanized Sealant. Though he wasn’t trying to create a seamless-looking coating, Eric’s goal was to make cleanup easier since the joints were so deep. He decided on the SherMax based on a recommendation from a YouTube video he had watched.
Unfortunately, after letting the caulk dry for a couple of days he discovered why this product wasn’t the best option. Paintable latex caulks will shrink and this one was no different. We have an article that discusses how to fill contraction joints here.
However, since the final results were joints much shallower than before, Eric decided to let it be. He then proceeded to the next step of applying the SPGX.
He mixed each of the gray color packs into two gallons of SPGX and then poured some into his paint tray. After re-sealing the containers he proceeded to apply the coating. Since his garage was nicely divided into sections by the contraction joints, it made application even easier. He would coat one section, apply the color flake, and then move on to the next section.
It was during this process Eric learned two gallons was not going to be enough for one coat. He was short about 100ft² for his last section. At this point, he called ArmorPoxy and ordered two more gallons of SPGX, and obtained some additional supplies.
Not to be deterred, he continued the following day while waiting for the additional SPGX and supplies to arrive. He mixed two anti-skid packs into two gallons of clear and applied the clear SPGX top coat over the color coat.
When the additional SPGX arrived a few days later, he mixed in a color pack with one gallon and went about finishing up the last section. Since he had plenty of the color base left over, Eric decided to go ahead and coat the surrounding concrete stem walls as well. The following day he mixed in a packet of the anti-skid into the remaining gallon of SPGX and applied it to the last 100ft² section and the stem walls.
Eric’s SPGX Review
The first thing Eric mentioned was that he wished he had ordered enough SPGX and supplies from the start. Finishing the last section took an additional two days which he had not planned for. He used approximately 5 lbs of color flakes and was happy with how it turned out. He thinks he would have liked it better had he used the full 7.5 lbs of flakes instead.
Eric also noted that he should have used more 18” rollers. Trying to use one roller per coat was a mistake. It started to gum up and become difficult to roll towards the end – particularly when applying the clear coat with the anti-skid additive. The 6.5” rollers were used to work the tighter area around the stairs. They really came in handy when he decided to coat the stem walls. The thicker nap worked well for the rougher concrete.
Because SPGX is solvent-based, it does produce a strong odor when being applied. Eric said it was much more noticeable when he had to close his garage door when the winds had kicked up while finishing the last 100ft² of his project. The smell remained for a few days before it finally dissipated.
When asked about the anti-skid additive, he said that except for the rollers gumming up at the end, it was easy to apply and he’s happy with the look. He admits that right now it can still be a little bit slippery. As a note, this isn’t uncommon with a brand-new coating. Once it gets a little bit of traffic on it, the non-skid starts working fairly well.
Overall, Eric has been very happy with the looks, performance, and application of the SPGX. He’s glad that the additional product he purchased allowed him to coat his stem walls. He didn’t account for doing that originally. Now that he has, he likes the way it looks.
He also pointed out that the customer service he received from ArmorPoxy was excellent. They did a great job of helping him with the application process and the quantity issue when he discovered that he had not ordered enough SPGX.
Final Thoughts
We think Eric did a fantastic job with his floor and he provides some great lessons for those looking to apply a quality garage floor coating for the first time. His remarks about changing rollers sooner were spot on. 500-600ft² is about as far as you want to go.
Though Eric spread his time out while completing this project, a two coat application such as Eric’s can be completed in one day. Depending on temperature and humidity, SPGX only needs 4 – 8 hours to cure before applying another coat. If you apply the first coat earlier in the day, it will leave you plenty of time to get a second coat applied in the afternoon.
For most applications, SPGX is best suited for concrete that is in fairly good shape. A high solids or 100% solids epoxy is a better choice for hiding imperfections and numerous repairs since it goes down much thicker.
ArmorPoxy SPGX is an excellent epoxy alternative for those who want a coating that is easy to apply and does not have a limited pot life for application. It’s durable, it stands up well to automotive traffic, and it provides good protection against chemicals. It also makes for a great-looking clear coat over bare concrete.
For more information, you can chat with ArmorPoxy on their website or give them a call. Tell them about your project, how you plan to use your garage, and what your goals are for your garage floor. They will be happy to help you choose the right coating solution.
Where can I purchase this product , and how much will one gallon cover am wanting to coat my back patio , will this product with stand outdoor elements?
SPGX has a coverage rate of 300-400 square feet per gallon Rick. Contact ArmorPoxy for pricing. We spoke with them about outdoor elements and they say they have a product that is more suited for directly outdoors than SPGX.
How much for white say 300 sf
Hello Lawrence. All Garage Floors is an informational website only. We do not sell product. Just follow the links we provide in the article to get pricing. It’s sold by ArmorPoxy.
Hello Shea,
First of all, thanks for all the info which is very informative. I’m looking to paint my garage floor which is a 3 car garage and reviewed some of the products out of which you have covered most of them. However, I could not find any review on the armor garage products and wondering if you have any thoughts on them. I’m specifically looking at Armor Chip which you can find it here: https://www.armorgarage.com/garage-epoxy-floor-chip-kit.html
Thanks,
Hari.
Hello Hari. Armor Garage is another great example of commercial quality product that can be purchased from professional companies that specialize in coatings. They sell very good product. As always, we recommend giving them a call and tell them about your project. They will be happy to answer your questions and make sure you are purchasing the correct amounts for your project size.
Hi Shea,
Thanks so much for all of the great information. Based on this article I went ahead and purchased a few gallons of the SPGX for one of my garages. The color choices were not great so I figure I would just go with the clear. Upon looking at your article agian I read that you mentioned “Additionally, SPGX is also a great top coat option for those wanting to stain their garage floor.” What type of concrete stain is recommended? Will something as simple as a Behr Conctrete stain work?
That’s correct JG, SPGX makes an excellent top coat for stained concrete. You can use any type of stain for concrete that you want. The Behr product is not a concrete stain, however. It is an acrylic coating that they call a stain. It’s very misleading and will not work. You can use acid stain or a colored dye. Acid stains create a more mottled, multi-colored, and variegated look, where as dyes tend to create a more consistent color. Acid stains are only available in earth tones where dyes are available in multiple colors. Direct Color is a good example of where you can purchase stains and dyes for concrete.
Hello! I’m so glad to find your website before I start my project! I would like to do a white floor with glitter. It will be in a children’s boutique so only foot traffic and fixtures that are between 50lbs and 200lbs, no cars or chemicals. I do want something that will wear well and not scratch very easily as we move fixtures yet glossy. This Armor Garage product sounds great, however for 2 coats it is substantially outside of my budget. Can I do a white base coat is something else that is less expensive to the bare concrete then just apply one coat of the SPGX? I’m thinking it really needs 2 coats on bare concrete because the first coat gets sucked up a lot but maybe if I’m just applying it on top of something else just 1 coat would look well. If so, do you have a suggestion of something that will be good for this but also very economical? I have to cover about 1200 feet. The bottom coat doesn’t need to be super durable since I’d be top coating with spgx, it just needs to adhere well to the concrete and the spgx, correct? Any suggestions? My budget is being strained with just this topcoat, originally I was planning on using the rustoleum professional epoxy clear that my HD now stocks which is less than half the price of this SPGX so I’m just trying to juggle affording the better SPGX.
Thanks so much!
White floor coatings can be very nice, Stephen, but they have to be done correctly or they will not turn out well. They are also not a budget friendly option. As we stated in your last question about the clear acrylic top coat, you will have to remove it completely before you do anything. This will require either grinding (which will prep the concrete for a coating at the same time) or chemical stripping. If you chemical strip, you still won’t know if the concrete will accept a coating or not since staining and most acrylics do not require opening the concrete pores like a coating does. If the stain that was originally applied was an acid stain, there is a chance that it may accept a coating, but it will have to be tested first.
White coatings require the use of a white colored epoxy or polyurea primer (depending on which product you choose), one or two coats of the white color base coat (which you would apply the glitter) and then a clear top coat of similar product to lock in the glitter and protect the white. Also, you don’t build floor coatings over inferior coatings. Your floor coating system is only as good as the weakest link.
Shea, I’ve been following your site for a couple years now (excellent job btw). Ever since you discovered and gushed about Nohr-S I’ve been planning to coat my garage with that. How would you compare this new product to Nohr-S?
Hi Bradley. ArmorPoxy SPGX is an excellent coating that is similar to Nohr-S. Nohr-S is approximately 1.5 mils thicker than SPGX and that difference is reflected in a slightly higher price point a wear rate. With SPGX you need to mix in the color while Nohr-S comes with the color premixed. They are both good values for the money spent.
I recently put down ArmorPoxy SPGX on my garage floor based on the writeup on this and other websites. I am pleased with the results. A few lessons I learned:
1. I was not impressed with how the phosphoric acid etch turned out, so I rented a concrete grinder to do the job “right”. A contractor i spoke with at Sherwin Williams said the grinder was the way to go. I had initially ignored him since the acid etch was “easier”, but wish I had done the grinder from the outset. It’s a heavy piece of equipment, so I was happy i had my brothers in town to help lift it into the bed of my truck.
2. Cleanup is a real pain – even acetone didn’t do much for getting it off even though that’s listed on the can. Plan on throwing out anything used for the first coat. I should have worn gloves – and wore them for the second (clear) coat. I had SPGX on my hands and fingernails for a couple weeks.
3. The people at ArmorPoxy were great to speak with over the phone and got me set up with everything I needed.
4. Overall, I’d recommend this product to anyone doing their garage floor. I should note my garage floor was only 18 months old, and I had kept it clean from spills in the anticipation of doing a coating.
Great feedback, Rick, as it will be helpful for others who are interested in SPGX. We are glad you like the way your floor turned out. You should be enjoying your floor coating for years to come.
Thanks so much for the review/guide. I followed the guide very closely and completed the coating as described! Everything went very smoothly. However, its been almost 9 days since i finished the coating and am still smelling a “paint” smell. I am wondering if Eric noticed any smells and for how long after the application? Oh i should mention that i am located in Cali where the temps drop to 50s during the night and 60-70s in the day time. Thanks!
Hello Da Duan. We are not sure if Eric is monitoring this article or not. The smell should mostly dissipate within the first 24 to 36 hours after the final coat. It’s not uncommon to have a faint smell for the next few days after that. If it continues, we recommend giving ArmorPoxy a call. Their customer service is very good. If you recoated too soon it’s possible that some of the solvents in the coat underneath didn’t get to evaporate all the way and are still leaching out.
Da Duan – It’s Eric, the original customer this article was based on. I know your post is over a year old, but just providing some feedback if others stumble upon this review.
To answer your question, I can not remember exactly how long the smell lasted, so that tells me that it was nothing drastic at all. I do remember keeping both garage doors cracked very slightly to allow some airflow.
It’s been about 3 years since laying down SPGX and so far everything seems to be holding up nicely. I do have some very minor chips, but they are right near a contraction joint – so areas the product really was not able to lay flat. They are not noticeable, I am just hoping they do not extend from there.
Thanks for all the info here. I am wondering if a single coat application is appropriate if not using color chips? I see that the manufacturer recommends 1 or 2 coats. This would be going on new concrete (older than 30 days) in a new home. Would most likely use anti skid in the single coat.
Hello Justin. You may be able to get by with a single coat providing that you only acid etch the concrete and stay well within the coverage rates.
I think they recommend one coat of color, regardless, then its up to you on how many clear coats on top. If the budget allowed, I would of went with one more clear coat for added protection, but so far still holding up after 3 years.
To add, my concrete was brand new – maybe 3-4ish months.
Did Eric do one coat of color and one coat of the anti-slip?
Or did he do two coats of color and a final anti-slip/skid?
Thanks,
Shawn
Hi Shawn. Eric did one color coat with color flakes added immediately thereafter and then one coat of clear with the anti-slip additive mixed in.
I think they recommend one coat of color, regardless, then its up to you on how many clear coats on top. If the budget allowed, I would of went with one more clear coat for added protection, but so far still holding up after 3 years.
This is a great article! It has changed my plans for my garage floor. I was going to go with an inexpensive DIY kit from a local home center, but now I know I should go with something higher quality. Quick question. As I was acid etching my 20 year garage floor, I notice many small spots (ranging from a coin sized spot to a hockey puck sized spot) where the acid wasn’t having an effect. They are essentially invisible oily spots. Should I (a) treat them (somehow), (b) use a primer designed for oily floors, or (c) go ahead and use one of these products?
Hi David. Do a water drop test on the spots that you believe the acid was not effective. If the spot immediately turns darker and will absorb the water fairly quickly, then you are good to go. However, if the concrete doesn’t really turn color or the water just sits there or beads, then these spots needs to be treated with a good degreaser, oil eating enzyme, or possibly a grinder. Epoxy primers for oil are expensive and generally used for larger contaminated areas. Small spots like these can usually be treated sufficiently, but there are exceptions.
I’ve decided on going with either a 1-part or 2-part polyurea coating for my basement floors. Could you please let me know the major differences between the two different systems? My default inclination makes me think that the 2-part is going to be more durable and longer lasting.
Also, do both systems require acid etching at minimum? We have a new (1.5 years old) basement floor that is fairly smooth, that is not sealed.
Thank you for your help!
Hello William. Yes, etching is the minimum requirement to properly profile concrete for a coating. This article here explains more. The major difference between single part and two part polyurea is the catalyst that starts the curing process. Single-part polyurea is moisture cured, meaning that the moisture in the air is what starts the curing process. This is what allows for an easier application since the pot life is increased significantly. 2-part polyureas have a much shorter pot life since the curing process starts with the introduction of the hardener. They can also be applied thicker. However, in order to be applied thicker in one application, a 2-part polyurea needs a high solids content. With that comes a very short pot life (20 minutes or less) that typically requires some experience to get down properly. What needs to be done is to compare data sheets to determine the characteristics and durability between any two coatings.
Generally, polyureas are not recommended for basements since they are solvent-based. The smell can permeate through the house and stink things up for days to weeks. The only way to avoid that is to use a 100% solids polyurea or polyaspartic coating (no VOC’s). However, these are not recommended for DIY application. What’s typically used for basements is water-based or 100% solids epoxy since there are not VOC’s to worry about. Have you conducted the proper moisture testing? Basements are notorious for moisture vapor unless a moisture vapor barrier was installed before the concrete was poured.
Thank you for the response.
Yes, I’ve done a moisture test on multiple sections of the floor and had no moisture to report. The house is only 2 years old and a vapor barrier was installed.
What would be the best DIY epoxy available recommended for basement use?
A 100% solids epoxy coating would be the best to use. It’s VOC free, provides for 9 mils or more of thickness, and is very glossy. You can use the same epoxy for a clear coat or you can use a high performance water-based polyurethane. Epoxy-Coat is one such example.
Has any one used epoxy coating on outdoor concrete decking? Any product recommendations and lessons learned would be very much appreciated.
Hello Ferd. Epoxy is not intended for outdoors. It’s not U.V. stable and will amber (yellow tint) when exposed to direct sunlight. If in the sun long enough, it can begin to chalk up and deteriorate. Polyurea and polyaspartic coatings are U.V. stable and typically used outdoors. Also, keep in mind that coatings can get very slick when wet if used outdoors. It’s imperative that you use an anti-slip media in the final coat.
Just wondering if the SPGX polyurea coating can be used solely as a top coat over previously painted and flecked garage floor. The floor has had hot tire pickup and needs to be sealed.
Hello Deena. Is your floor painted or coated with epoxy? It makes a difference if it can be top coated with a clear or not. This article here explains the differences if you are not sure.
Hello
Do I need to “Diamond grind” the surface before applying SPGX? My surface is fairly clean.
Also can you clarify your reference to clear coat? Is clear coat SPGX without the grey color pigment? Or a different product?
Hi Sal. Grinding is not necessary, however, you do need to etch the concrete surface at a minimum. Yes, the clear coat is Clear SPGX that has not been tinted.