There is an abundance of confusion today from homeowners looking to apply and epoxy coating to their garage floor. Should it be epoxy paint or an epoxy coating? Is there a difference? If so, which is best? The easiest way to figure this out is to learn the difference between paint, epoxy paint, and epoxy coatings, in order to eliminate all the confusion and be able to make an informed decision.
The first misnomer that we want to address is that an epoxy coating is not paint. Garage floor paint is a latex acrylic product. Many of the well-known paint manufactures do offer paint with a small amount of epoxy in the mix and refer to them as 1-Part epoxy paint. This allows for better adhesion and durability than standard acrylic paint, but it is not an epoxy product.
The term “epoxy paint” came about when epoxy manufactures took notice of the terminology that people were using when searching for epoxy coatings. The DIY public was intermixing the term “paint” with “coating”. So a marketing decision was made and many well known DIY epoxy flooring manufacturers that you see in home improvement centers decided to brand their products as “epoxy paint” since that is what consumers seemed to be calling it.
As a result, it has only made things more confusing for the consumer. Chances are that when you see something advertised as epoxy paint for your garage, it could be acrylic paint or it could be an epoxy coating. This has led to many people buying a paint for their garage floor when what they thought they were purchasing was an epoxy coating.
What is an epoxy floor coating?
Epoxy is a two component product consisting of one part epoxy resin and one part polyamine hardener. You are required to mix the two parts together prior to application. After mixing you are limited by time and temperature as to how long you have to apply it. With colored epoxies it is the resin that is tinted to give the epoxy color. If it’s not tinted, then it goes on as a clear coating.
Epoxy coatings cure and do not dry like paint does. Unlike paint, the mixing of the two components starts a reactive process that creates cross-linking of the components while it cures. This cross-linking provides a very hard and durable surface that seals the concrete and is resistant to staining, abrasion, and chemicals. The amount of resistance and performance of the coating is usually determined by the quality and solids content of the epoxy.
The ease of application and thickness of the epoxy is also dependent on the volume of solids content. This is always displayed as a percentage. In other words, 100% solids epoxy means that you have 100% of the product on the floor after it cures. 50% solids mean that you will have 50% of the product remaining on the floor after it has cured. The reason for this is that the carrier agents (water or solvents) which are used in the lower solids product evaporate out as the epoxy cures.
As an example, a 100% solids epoxy applied with a roller has an approximate wet film thickness (WFT) of 10 mils. Once it cures, the dry film thickness (DFT) remains at 10 mils. A 50% solids epoxy will have a wet film thickness of approximately 6 mils. Once it cures, the coating is reduced to a dry film thickness of 3 mils.
100% solids epoxy is harder to work with during application because of the thicker viscosity and limited time to apply it. Epoxy with a lesser solids content has less viscosity and is easier to apply.
Many of the inexpensive “DIY” epoxy paint kits that you can buy at the local home improvement centers and online have as little as 48% solids. This means that it is easier to apply as well as cheaper to buy because the solids content is much lower along with the quality. It goes on the floor almost as easy as paint does.
In fact, easy application it is one of the primary marketing points that makes these kits so popular to purchase. They can be applied to your garage floor more easily compared to the more premium epoxy coat systems.
Keep in mind that this also means you have much less of it on the garage floor resulting in a much thinner coat. This affects the performance and durability of the coating when compared to epoxy brands with a higher solids content.
Does this mean that these epoxy paint kits are bad? No, it just means that you are getting what you pay for. Many of these kits cost under $70 and cover up to 250ft². Two kits will cover a typical two-car garage. They are usually available in either grey or beige with a semi-gloss finish and include a small bag of paint chips to add if you like.
The more expensive kits tend to be marketed as epoxy coatings, though there are some exceptions. They come in multiple colors, have a higher solids content, and result in a thicker, more durable surface that lasts years longer.
When ever in doubt about what you are purchasing, always review the TDS sheets. These will detail exactly what type of product you are purchasing as well as other very important information regarding application and durability.
So don’t fall for the epoxy marketing name game when deciding on what you want to apply to your garage floor. As you can see, epoxy paint and epoxy coating generally mean the same thing. They are both an epoxy coating. Do your research first, as this will help you to understand the type of epoxy you are purchasing and what kind of results to expect.
I originally coated my garage floor with a 2 part epoxy (I don’t know if it was water or solvent base) 10 years ago. I’ve abused it by welding a lot but it held up! It is beginning to show wear can I recoat with epoxy and what prep must be done?
Hello Ronald. Yes, you can prep for a recoat if the epoxy is sound. It requires roughing up the surface with 120-150 grit sandpaper, vacuum, and then wipe with denatured alcohol. We have more about the process in this article here.
A hot water unit was moved since I used an epoxy floor coating in the garage (12 months ago). I am wanting to paint just that 42cm diameter circle of concrete. The rest of the floor is in great condition. Are there any patch up kits or will I buy an epoxy paint just to make do until I redo the entire floor further down the track.
Hello Lindy. Unfortunately you don’t state what product was used, so I can’t answer the question. Manufacturers of the typical DIY epoxy kits that you purchase from home improvement centers do not offer touch up kits. If it was a quality commercial product from a concrete coating vendor, then one may be available. A point to be aware of is that coatings do not blend well together like regular paint does. The overlap marks will make it obvious where a new coating was applied over the old. If you used color flakes, they can help to camouflage it a bit. You might be better off color matching the coating with a concrete paint if you plan on redoing the floor sometime in the future.
Thanks for your response Shea. I think it was Rustoleum Rocksolid which I applied. I will take your advice and match with concrete paint and redo the whole lot sometime in the future. Unfortunately I used up all the colour flakes.
My basement may be coated with a 2 part epoxy, how can I tell for sure?
Hello Bill. Apply a tablespoon of acetone or mineral spirits to inconspicuous area of the floor. Let it set for a minute or two and then rub it dry vigorously with a clean rag. If it’s paint, the surface may soften and a lot of the color will come up on the rag. If it’s epoxy, it might discolor the rag slightly and degloss the area, but that is it.
I pulled the carpet up in one of my bed rooms last year. I bought my epoxy from Epoxy Masters. I watch the video and also watch some videos on the internet. It looked too easy to do. I tried their product for the first time in my life. I applied two coats. It was really that easy to do. It came out awesome. Looks like something you would see in a magazine. Two part epoxy is the only way to go.
I painted with latex, and the car pulled up the paint, I sanded those spots and used a primer and painted again with latex, and now the store advised using a sealer (is this correct?) also if so should I use those decorative chips in the sealer to prevent slipping and falling? (the store advised me of what to use and do but not sure if all of this is correct, or should I just buy a rug and the heck with it?
Hi Rebecca. The problem is that latex paint does not hold up at all when it comes to hot tires. It doesn’t matter what you apply over it, it’s still the weak link and will still pull up if you put a clear acrylic coating over it. Decorative color flakes are cosmetic only and will not enhance slip resistance. It you apply a clear acrylic coating over the paint you can mix in an anti-slip additive to vastly improve wet performance. Like we stated though, it will not improve the performance of the latex paint and those areas will still pull up.
What would you recommend for a clear top coat on an acrylic stain (tan with flakes) that is on a concrete garage floor? Don’t have any info on the acrylic stain or who the manufacturer is.
Hi Robert. If the stain is an acrylic, then it’s actually a thin coating. This article explains more. The only clear you can put on an acrylic base is another acrylic. It’s also important to determine if the base acrylic stain is water-based or solvent-based. You can apply a water-based acrylic on top of both water or solvent-based acrylics, but you can’t place a solvent-based acrylic on a water-based acrylic. The solvents will tend to soften the water-based acrylic and make a color mess.
Thanks – you have been very helpful
Hi Shea,
I’m not sure if you’re still answering questions because it’s been a few years since the last post but I’ll try anyway.
I was thinking of using epoxy floor covering on the plywood on the upper level of my garage because we’re turning that space into a small living area for my mother when she visits. With the other work going on, we thought we’d postpone spending $ on hardwood flooring right now. My question has 2 parts 1. would the more viscous epoxy floor covering do an ok job filling in the small lines between the boards and 2. would it yellow from the sunlight coming in from the windows? I know it’s ambers when it’s in direct sun but not sure how sensitive it is if say, we lay down area rugs and the sun travels across the room throughout the day.
Thanks for a great article by the way!
Hi Victoria. Epoxy can be applied to wood flooring as long as the floor does not flex much. Epoxy is a very hard substance that does not flex. If the floor flexes, then the epoxy will crack. Unless you are using 100% solids epoxy, it will not fill the tight gaps between the boards and create a smooth finish. As epoxy cures, the water or solvents that act as a carrier for the solids will evaporate away. When it does this, the wet film thickness decreases and any holes, voids, and etc., that were filled will be exposed to some degree. It’s similar to how paint reacts on a wall when you paint over a hole that was not patched. Yes, it will amber if exposed to direct sunlight – even through windows. You will need to sand the wood with 60 grit sandpaper before application.
Hi shea,
I did my floor with a Diy kit from lowes . It came out looking great. The only problem is it is very slippery when it rain or get wet!! I have fallen twice on it. I plan on redoing it what can i do to stop it from being so slipplery. I say someone say shart grip.
Hi Sylvester. Assuming this kit is a 2-part epoxy and not paint, what you can do is apply an additional coat of clear epoxy that has an anti-slip additive mixed in. Before you apply the clear epoxy, however, it will require that you rough up the current surface with 120 grit sandpaper first in order for it to adhere properly. We have an article here that discusses how to do this.
What should I use to clean my expoxy painted floors?
Hi Angel. We have an article here that discusses that.
Hello,
I’m in the process of preparing my garage floor for Rustoleum Rocksolid Epoxy by grinding off the old sealant but I want to paint the five inch stem walls a different color, not with epoxy. Must I grind off the sealant as well or will regular primer and paint stick to the sealant? If so, should I paint them before or after the floor epoxy has been finished?
Thanks.
Hi Tony. Are you sure that the stem walls have been sealed? It’s uncommon for that to be done. If they are sealed with a penetrating sealer and they have the typical rough finish, you should be OK with applying a regular concrete paint. When you are painting the stem walls, it can be done in any order that works best for you. We always like to paint them first ourselves so that we don’t have to worry about paint getting on the coating.
Shea,
Actually, no I am not sure they’re sealed. I just assumed it was as they are the same color as the floor. They do have a rough surface on them.
Ok, thank you very much!
Hey there,
I used a product called Seal-a-crete to seal my basement floor from water that would come up after heavy rainfall, it seems to have worked. I understand that I now need to diamond grind the floor (according to the seal-a-crete instructions, to permanently seal it nicely). Having done that, I’d like to use a two-part epoxy coating over it.
Can I just apply the epoxy coating, or do I (still) need to use a primer?
Could I forgo the diamond grinding (the floor has a rough feel to it), fill the cracks and holes in with epoxy filler, and just put the epoxy over the floor?
Would I still need a primer on a sealed floor?
Other parts of the basement are not sealed as I never have an issue with water or damp, can an epoxy coating be applied straight onto a bare concrete floor, and would I need to use a primer?
Lost of questions there, appreciate any information given. Thank you.
Hello Paul. All concrete types need the proper prep (etch or grind) before application of an epoxy coating. You can’t just begin application to bare concrete without the proper prep. Because the product you applied is a densifier, it requires that you grind the concrete in order to provide the proper profile and open the pores at the surface. If you are applying a commercial quality high solids or 100% solids epoxy, then an epoxy primer (not concrete paint primer) is highly recommended. If you plan on applying a thin mil, low solids epoxy such as Rust-Oleum, then an epoxy primer is not needed.
We used acrylic on our garage floor. It cane off just with my tires on it. Can we paint epoxy over the top or do we need to remove all of the acrylic first?
Hi Jessi. You need to remove the acrylic paint first. If not, the epoxy coating you apply over it will just peel up with the paint since that is what it is adhered to.
Hi,
I just put a layer of Hilti self leveling cement on my garage floors. The garage has a slope. I put a stop at the bottom but it pooled a bit (wavy). Getting a grinder to even it out. My question is what do I put on it now?
The grinder will etch the floor. I’m concerned that an epoxy coat will pool as well. Although after reading your article, I think that if I purchased a 100% solid product I may be able to put it on with out pooling at the garage door due to the sloping,. Is this correct?
Also I have watch a few YouTube companies that have a “ dirty pour”. I know that will not work. Can you recommend an epoxy that would work?
My last question there is a Behr product called granite grip. I think it’s just a latex with sand… I don’t really know. Would that be a good option.
My goal look good and last.
Thank you,
Eileen
Hello Eileen. What product by Hilti did you use specifically. Do you have a link to it?
Ok I made a mistake we put CMP pioneering cement technology Liqui Cem mixed with Hilti to make it thicker for the pour so it would not drip so much on the slope.
Now it grinder and smooth.
I like the look just need a top coat.
Like I said it slopes so I would like something to go on with a roller. It’s 250sft. And it has been sitting for two weeks.
Hi Eileen. Fortunately, Liquicem by CMP is one of the few underlayments that can accept a coating. Most can’t. You mentioned earlier that you were going to grind. If you did the entire floor, then it will accept a coating. DO NOT USE Behr Granite Grip. It’s just a latex acrylic paint with an additive added. It will not last. For your application we would recommend an epoxy primer and a high solids epoxy base color coat. You can add a high performance clear coat of polyurethane for even better wear and chemical protection if you like. Here is an example that covers up to 300 square feet. These type of coating systems go on with a roller. The high solids epoxy base coat is poured out in ribbons immediately after it is mixed, but it is rolled on after that.
Thank you
I have a 20 x 21 foot garage floor that has been painted 2 or 3 times with epoxy paint (not coating). The floor has a few places that collect water in a heavy rain, and some of the places may be 2 or 3 feet wide. I would like to have the floor epoxy coated. What would be the process?
Hi Judy. The process requires that all the paint be removed via grinding down to the bare concrete. The grinding will also prep the bare concrete for a proper epoxy or similar coating system at the same time. Low spots can be difficult to work with. You have to remember that the water that is collected in the low spot is now going to move somewhere else. The best way to help level small low spots like that is to apply an epoxy slurry. This consists of a 100% solids epoxy mixed with some clean silica sand to provide volume. It’s poured out and troweled into the low area. Once cured, it is then treated to grinding in order make the repair area even and flush with surrounding concrete. The grinding also preps the surface for a coating.
Hello I just purchased rustoleum metallics epoxy my garage has a slope in it. Will the paint end up pooling or running? Is it best for level floors. Thanks Tony
Hi Tony. It will work fine for a garage with a slope. It would need to be very steep before you encounter issues with it slumping.
Awesome thank you.
What about an Outdoor BBQ Island Concrete countertop? I had one built and they did a horrible job. It has low spots and even has exposed rebar on the top which is rusting. Can’t stand looking at the countertop is there an outdoor epoxy that I can use and will it prevent the rebar from rusting any further?
Hi Terrance. Epoxy cannot be used outdoors. The U.V. rays from direct sunlight will cause epoxy to chalk and deteriorate. Plus, it would look much different than the rest of the counter.
Your first problem, however, is the rusting rebar. If that is not fixed, it will continue to expand as it rusts and will cause the surrounding concrete to continue spalling. You need to chip away some of the surrounding concrete and then wire brush the rebar to remove the heavy rust. You can then treat it to a rebar rust sealer product of your choice. After that, we suggest applying a polymer-modified concrete overlay to fill the depressions and provide a thin (but strong) overlay to the counter top to make it look new again.