The subject of a polyurethane or epoxy coating for a garage floor eventually comes up when deciding on what materials to use for your project. Admittedly, it can become a bit confusing when asking around or researching which floor coating is best to use.
Epoxy and polyurethane are great for protecting your garage floor against stains, damage, chemicals, oils, and wear. They are both light reflective, easy to clean, and long lasting. They also have their own advantages depending on the application.
So which one should you use and what is the difference? Well, the short answer for most applications is to use both. Let’s see why.
Epoxy Floor Coating Benefits
Epoxy is a thermosetting polymer coating that also acts as a concrete sealer. It is available in three different formulations; water based, solvent based, and 100% solids. These formulations allow for varying degrees of thickness from 3 mils to over 10 mils for a single coating. They can also dictate the ease of application, provide special bonding characteristics, and offer different VOC considerations.
Epoxy bonds extremely well to properly prepared concrete. It is sometimes used as a resurfacing agent for old or worn concrete and as a repair material for concrete cracks, pitting, and other surface repairs.
The best epoxy formulations are high solids to 100% solids. They are an extremely hard, thick, and impact resistant surface. This self-leveling thickness contributes to filling in the small hairline cracks and imperfections of the surface as well as providing a high build coating for protection.
They also work well against hot tire pick up and wear from abrasion. Though some epoxy formulas come with U.V. inhibitors, they will still eventually yellow or amber as the industry calls it when exposed to sunlight for any length of time. This is something to consider when choosing an epoxy garage floor coating.
Polyurethane Floor Coating Benefits
Like epoxy, polyurethane is a thermosetting polymer and considered a high performance coating. It is commonly known as urethane for short, though that it is technically incorrect. There is actually a big difference between polyurethane and urethane. If someone is advertising a urethane coating, it is actually polyurethane.
Of the different formulations available, aliphatic polyurethane is the desired choice for garage floors. Though they are approximately 60% to 70% solids depending on the manufacturer, a polyurethane coating is only about 2 to 3 mils in thickness. It can’t be applied any thicker in one application as some epoxy coatings can.
Don’t let the thinner dry film thickness fool you, however. Aliphatic polyurethane has more flexibility than epoxy which makes the surface much more scratch resistant. It also aids in absorbing impacts better and provides much higher abrasion resistance. In fact, some manufacturer’s claim that the wear resistance of polyurethane over epoxy is almost 3 to 1.
Polyurethane also has a higher resistance to chemicals than epoxy. This includes resistance to petroleum products and solvents, such as methylene chloride, which is the primary ingredient in paint stripper.
Another advantage of polyurethane over epoxy is that it is U.V. stable. This means that it won’t yellow like epoxy does when exposed to small amounts of sunlight over a period of time. It can also tolerate larger temperature swings and handles humidity much better.
Polyurethane concrete coatings have a very glossy finish, though some brands have the option of a satin finish. It is also a better medium than epoxy to mix in anti-slip aggregate if you want an anti-slip surface.
Despite the fact that polyurethane has many advantages over epoxy, it does not bond well to concrete. Its thin dry film thickness means that it is not a high build coating either. It will not work well to fill in small cracks and divots in the surface. Another consideration is that most polyurethanes are solvent based, meaning some can have high VOC’s and may not be shipped to your state or to particular counties.
Final Verdict
So, which should you use? As a rule, you will get maximum performance by using both polyurethane and epoxy together for your garage floor coating. Whether you are applying the coating yourself or hiring a professional, epoxy is best used for building up the thickness of your floor coating and providing color. You would then follow up with polyurethane as a clear coat to protect it. The clear coat will provide for a longer wearing and more scratch resistant surface.
If you don’t want to worry about yellowing at all, one option is to apply a full color flake floor. The acrylic color chips are U.V. stable and will not yellow. Follow up with a couple coats of clear polyurethane over the chips and yellowing will never be a problem.
Another option is to apply a colored polyurethane over an epoxy primer. You can then apply a clear polyurethane over that. This is an excellent choice for those that want a floor without color chips.
Something else to consider is that most epoxy clear coats are not actually crystal clear. Though they may be clear in color, there is still a slight tint to the coating. Polyurethane on the other hand is considered water clear. It can provide a very clear and glossy surface that gives your floor depth.
So unless you are just doing a one-coat epoxy coating for your garage, a combination of epoxy and polyurethane is almost always the best answer to get the maximum combined benefit out of both materials. The result is a high performance garage coating that will stand up to the rigors of a working garage for years to come.
We are refinishing an old building, working on a tight budget. There is carpet glue on a part of the floor, and I like the industrial look it gives. I would like to put a hard clear coat over the top as a finish for it. Will this polyurethane adhere to carpet glue? Thank you 🙂
Hello Raelene. No, polyurethane or other clear concrete coatings will not adhere well to carpet glue. The concrete needs to be cleaned as well as grinded or acid etched in order to apply a clear coating. It is not unusual, however, for the glue to leave permanent staining within the concrete after it has been cleaned. This would easily show through with the proper clear coating.
what brand and where can you buy polyurethane base coat and top coat ?
Hello Kevin. Just to be clear, polyurethane can only be used as a color base coat over epoxy or an epoxy primer coat. It can’t be applied directly to concrete. There are many great vendors to purchase from. You won’t find good product like this at home improvement centers. Legacy Industrial, EpoxyMaster, Garage Flooring LLC, and ArmorPoxy are an example of just a few.
What products were used on the Alan Jackson garage floor?
Thanks!
Sorry for the late reply, Ben. We thought your comment was spam at first, but soon realized that Alan Jackson does have a nice garage! It was hard to find an image that wasn’t monopolized by a car, but it looks like his garage floor is polished concrete with a light color stain and decorative saw cuts.
Would any of the options be suitable for wet areas. I want to have a poly or
epoxy floor in my bathroom my shower is recessed so i want to continue the same material all the way into the shower on top of a poured shower pan. Im not worried to much about the slip resistance however I am about the bacteria, mold, and ability to clean the epoxy or poly surface. Thank you
Hello Danny. As long as the floor is concrete, you can apply an epoxy, polyurea, or polyurethane (top coat only) to your bathroom floor and shower floor providing the concrete is properly prepped. It will be a slip hazard with bare feet when wet unless you apply an anti-slip grit to the surface.
Hello, thanks so much for your articles. I recently power washed, scraped and repainted my porch. I do this every two years due to chipping of the paint, and I would like to apply a top coat seal that will last, resist scratches from foot traffic, etc. and hold up to the UV. Since I unknowingly used an exterior 100% acrylic latex wine colored paint, I am looking for a water-based polyurethane (not too pricey if possible) to use on top of the rich color. Searching through your recommended sponsors, I have found mostly epoxy paints. I also visited two Sherwin Williams stores, but both of them tried to sell me an interior polyurethane or a natural stone sealant. Please help.. I will be applying one more coat of color and would like to have the gallon of clear sealant ready. My porch is concrete.. and I know the sealer is expensive, but was hoping for somewhere around $100/gallon instead of $500. I also am not sure I really need the polyurethane over the epoxy, but the sun is definitely a factor and I assumed a snow shovel may harm a surface that is less resistant to scratches. If the polyurethane is thinner than epoxy then I’m thinking one gallon would probably be enough to apply two coats… I was able to apply two coats of paint so far, with one gallon, and still have enough for another coat. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!
Hello Angela. Most coatings are not intended for outdoor use for a variety of reason, one of which is that most will amber (yellow tint). There are some exceptions, such as polyurea polyaspartic coatings formulated for pool decks, outdoor patios, and etc. Most outdoor products for concrete are latex acrylic paint or 1-part epoxy paint. Latex paint is U.V. resistant and will not amber. The 1-part epoxy paint is just latex acrylic paint with a little bit of epoxy resin added to aid in adhesion and durability. It is not an actual epoxy coating. Also, as you may or may not have read, latex acrylic paints are not intended to have a clear coat, though it can be accomplished with a water based product.
Legacy Industrial sells a water based polyurethane in both a gloss finish and matte finish. You can find them here. The coverage rate is going to be close to 400 sq. ft. per gallon. You would need to rough up the surface of the paint with 120 grit sandpaper first before you apply it or it will peel. Also, something to consider as well is that no vendor is going to guarantee the application of a clear coat to acrylic paint. Because coatings are much more dense than paint, they will be slippery when wet – especially with snow. We would highly recommend adding an anti-slip grit to the final coat. Lastly, no coating is going to stand up well to a shovel. Expect to find nice scratches in the surface if it is subjected to snow shovels. I hope this helps.
Also check out Home Depot products. Our Home Depot epoxy garage floor coatings with clear polyurethane top coat was installed over ten years ago and despite the grit and grime normal to farming it has retained its adhesion and shiny appearance.
Hi Marvin. We are glad to hear that your floor has held up well. Unfortunately, Home Depot does not carry the same products they did 10 years ago. The only polyurethane coatings they carry are for wood floors and furniture only. In addition, they don’t carry commercial quality concrete coatings either. It’s all residential quality DIY garage floor coating kits.
We have an outfit called Lifetime Coatings here in the Denver, CO area pushing what they claim is a non-epoxy, non-polyurea garage floor coating that requires minimal concrete preparation. They claim the material is a formulation based on castor oil and gypsum and cite several well known local commercial venues and professional sports facilities where their product has been installed. I am wondering if you have any experience with this, or similar, product and are able to comment on its durability, longevity and suitability for a residential garage floor covering.
Hello Mark and sorry for the slow reply. We had not heard of this product so we reached out to a couple of people in the industry. They hadn’t heard of it either. I did find their website here. They make some interesting claims as well as some outright false statements about other coatings. I looked and couldn’t find any data sheets about the product they use. Technical Data Sheets will contain information on abrasion testing, adhesion, chemical testing results against fluids such as acids, fuels, various petroleum products, and etc. We suggest that you contact them and ask for the data sheets on the material they use for garage floors and see how it stacks up against traditional high performance floor coating products.
I want your advice on weather to apply a clear epoxy or polyurethane coating to newly commercial grade VCT flooring.
I do not want to recoat and restip every six months,
Hi Ronnie. Applying a coating to VCT flooring can be done, but it does require more work and most manufacturers will not recommend or warranty their product for it. We have an article here that discusses how it needs to be done and what you are up against.
I want to home brew in my concrete floored garage. The wort can be quite acidic and I want to protect the concrete and make it easier to clean. Is the best option polyurethane after using a primer to seal the concrete and giving the polyurethane something to grip onto?
Thanks, Dave
Hi David. Yes, a high performance polyurethane would be excellent for acid based liquids. Some can be tinted as well if you want the coating to have color. Make sure you purchase it from a concrete floor coating vendor. Home improvement centers and paint stores do not carry it. FYI, high performance polyurethanes are solvent based and some states do not allow shipping. If you are in one of those states, a single-part polyurea is a great option as well.
Hello, is it possible to buy Clear Polyurethane Paint? I am hoping to add a glitter product (specifically for Polyurethane Paint) and apply it to our conservatory floor. It gets a lot of UV sunlight, hence not using epoxy based paints. Also, we are under the impression that any colour based paints will simply mask/cover the glitter.
Thank You
Hello Ben. You are correct, you cannot mix glitter in with a colored paint or a coating. It is too fine and will just disappear into the color. It needs to be added to a clear coating. Most polyurethane floor paints (not concrete coatings) are oil-based. Clear generally is not obtainable with oil-based paint because it will have a brown tint and is not truly clear. There are newer water-based polyurethane coatings available now that are extremely low in VOC’s which are designed for indoor applications. You can mix the glitter in those and apply it to paint. Because it is an actual coating, it will require that you rough up the surface of the paint first with 120 grit sandpaper before you can apply it.
I have a question? I just have a small area to cover, the surface is concrete with a mosaic tile . Can I use Epoxy on this type of surface?
Happy New Year to you all.
Hello John and thanks for New Year wishes. Epoxy does not adhere to tile very well. You would need to rough ups the surface of it with 120 grit sandpaper in order to get it to bond. This is in addition to etching the concrete. Also, epoxy does not do well outside if this is where the area is at. It is not U.V. stable and will amber and possibly chalk.
I have a 6k sq foot concrete floor, it had vct tile glued down, I used a diamond floor grinder and ground it down to fresh clean surface, the space will be a lab as nd I want to keep the cement look but want a high gloss deep wet look, abrasion resistant and non slip, I also have some chip holes I need to fill, I am doing the work myself, can you reccomend which patch filler to use and the floor finish, the space is in california.
Thank you
Hello Robert. We have an article here about repairing pitting and spalling. We also list the various type of products you can use. The key is to grind all the repairs flush after they have cured. Keep in mind that all of your repair work is going to be highlighted if going with a clear coating. Repairs cannot be made to look like the original concrete and clear always highlights the various characteristics of concrete. We would recommend that you use a single-part polyurea. These type of coatings are easy to apply, glossy, highly chemical resistant, and abrasion resistant. Two coats would work well. You will need to add an anti-slip additive to the final coat to make it slip resistant.
Greetings,
I am doing a penny floor and am applying epoxy over it but then I have to apply Water-based polyurethane over that. What is the process? Or what do I have to do before applying poly over epoxy? Pleeeaase help.
Hello Mina. Generally polyurethane can be applied 10-12 hours after the final coat of epoxy has been applied. After 10 hours, place your thumb onto the surface of the epoxy. If it doesn’t leave a print then you can apply the polyurethane. If you wait longer than 24 hours, you will need to degloss and rough up the surface of the epoxy with 120 grit sandpaper. Be sure to check the data sheets for the epoxy your are using. It should state recoat times as well.
I’m looking at a contractor in my area that uses an epoxy and polyurethane system. One thing they do that is different from other contractors I looked at is their top coat.
After the epoxy chips and carbon fiber chips, they first use a coat of clear epoxy then put a top coat of polyurethane on.
My question is on the clear epoxy: Do I need to worry about the UV resistance of it and having it turn yellow? Or does the polyurethane coat on top of the clear epoxy protect it from UV?
Are there any other drawbacks to having a coat of epoxy, albeit clear epoxy, on top of the chips?
Great site by the way! It has been very helpful in the process of finding a contractor. I’ve found that there’s a lot of contractors selling inferior products out there but saying they’re the best available.
We’re glad that the information we provide has been helpful for you. That is our intended goal 🙂 You ask a very good question about the epoxy. Yes, it can amber under the coating of the polyurethane if you get direct sunlight (U.V) or strong indirect sunlight. Polyurethane is thin. When applied to a floor with color flakes applied to full rejection, the first coat mostly gets absorbed in all the nooks and crannies of the chips. It then requires at least one more coat, if not two, to properly top coat the finish. This provides a for a very durable clear coat, but it does have a texture to it that some customers don’t want. It’s not uncommon for coating companies to apply a high solids clear (100% solids epoxy in this case) first. This is considered a build coat of clear that smooths out the irregular texture from the chips. A polyurethane is then applied on top of that to provide the greater abrasion and chemical resistance it is known for. What you can do, however, is ask them to apply a high solids coat of polyaspartic or polyurea down as the clear build coat. This is what is done for clients that want a smooth surface that will not amber.
Thanks for a fast response!
I asked about the clear epoxy build coat and was told that it was UV resistant. I didn’t know that there was UV resistant epoxy out there so I plan on reaching out to the manufacturer (Ultra Durable Technologies) to make sure.
The contractor did say that using 2 coats of polyaspartic with a coat of polyurethane on top would be an option if I wanted to go that route but it would add cost. My question is how much of a cost difference should I expect? I just want to make sure they don’t overcharge me for the upgrade. They didn’t have a polyurea option.
All epoxy will amber if exposed to U.V. light, it’s just a matter of when. Some manufacturers will include additives in their epoxy to make it more U.V. resistant, but all it does is slow down how fast it will amber if exposed to U.V. light. Additives cannot make epoxy U.V. stable like polyurethane, polyurea, and polyaspartics. There is a big difference between being U.V. resistant and U.V. stable. The cost of polyaspartic over epoxy will be additional. Contractors generally will not include the polyaspartic when giving estimates because they want their price per square foot to be competitive with other contractors. Without knowing what type of polyaspartic they offer, additional costs over the epoxy could be anywhere from 0.35 – 0.85 cents a square foot.
Hi. We have integral colored concrete floors on the interior of my church. the concrete guy put down a solvent-based acrylic sealer … we thought it was a tough polyurethane. Now, we are concerned about the durability of these floors in a high traffic environment. Can we not put polyurethane on top now? What is our best option for durability?
Hello James. No, you cannot apply polyurethane to acrylic. The two are not compatible. In addition, most clear polyurethane concrete coatings do not adhere well to bare concrete and need an epoxy primer coating applied first. The newer single-part polyurea clear coatings are becoming more popular in this regard as they provide the same benefits as polyurethane, but can be applied directly to the concrete. Regardless, in order to apply such coatings it would require the concrete surface be prepped first via acid etching or grinding. Acrylics generally do not require such prep. That said, solvent based acrylics that sustain only foot traffic actually can do quite well and are common for indoor living areas. One nice benefit to solvent acrylics is that any parts of the floor that may receive damage from scratching or wear can easily be fixed with a small reapplication in those areas.
I’ve used floor Epoxy paints of several kinds & I have yet found one that doesn’t peel from hot car tires or gets dull & dirty looking after about a yr. I’ve tried washing it down with mild soapy water, do not use a power washer unless you want to pull it up to do it again. There’s some very expensive ones out there but to expensive for me. The best one that I’ve ever seen was where I worked at Ford Motor Co. but super expensive to do a garage it probably would cost a couple of thousand dollars. Any ideas for a garage floor that’ll always look good?
Hi David. Most of the DIY epoxy paint kits that you can purchase from your local home improvement centers are going to develop hot tire pickup or wear out within 4-5 years. The majority are budget minded kits designed for the uninitiated to apply. The commercial quality products that do not develop the symptoms you described are actually available to the consumer from various concrete coating vendors online. Many of our sponsors carry such products. They are more expensive, but the additional money spent actually saves you much more money and time in the long run. These type of products provide the type of performance you are referring to when working at Ford. You can purchase an epoxy primer, high solids epoxy color coat, optional color flakes, and a high performance polyurethane clear coat in the $600 – $700 dollar range for a typical two car garage. This is the same type of system that commercial installers charge $1600 – $2000 to supply and install.
Shea:
I’ve finally decided to address my garage floor after hating it for the last 14 years. I’m following what I’ve learned from your excellent website. First, I plan to do the two moisture tests and then follow by grinding, epoxy primer, a 100% solid epoxy (with traction additives) and a high performance polyurethane clear coat. My question is: when looking for the primer, 100% solid epoxy and the polyurethane clear coat are there any real differences among the products sold by the 5 or 6 internet sellers of these products?
Hello Ken. There are much more than 5 or 6 vendors on the internet that sell good garage floor coating products. Are you possibly referring to our sponsors? If so, there is not a huge difference in product when comparing apples to apples as most are all commercial quality. However, I would recommend reading our article on how to read data sheets. The data sheets provide for a better tool to compare products. Many times when searching for the type of coating system that you describe, it can come down to who has the lowest price at the time (sales and etc.) since the companies that sell these types of systems only deal in high quality commercial type of coatings to begin with.
Hey mate,
I’ve just put 2 part epoxy coating (2 coats) then with decorative flakes on top. I was thinking of using clear polyurethane and is it possible to put additives like anti slip. Is this a good idea?
Alex
Hello Alex. Yes, you can do just that. We have an article here about how to do that. Make sure the polyurethane you use is not for wood floors and furniture. It needs to be a for concrete coatings. Also, if you are outside the recoat window for the epoxy it will require that you rough up the surface first before applying the polyurethane.
Hi Shea
Thank you for the speedy reply. Do you know where to purchase a recommended brand of clear polyurethane that can add anti slip. In NSW.
Thanks again
Alex
I’m assuming you are in Australia, Alec. We don’t have any info of who sells what there, unfortunately. I suggest you do an internet search for “polyurethane concrete floor coatings”. All clear polyurethane coatings that are used to topcoat can accept an anti-slip.
i have seen epoxy mixed with small stones and applied to concrete outside. And have started hearing alot of commercials for naturestone, which sounds like the samething. what whould be a good method to do this for a outside pool deck in a Lower Michigan climate.
Hello Ron. We don’t have enough information on the process to inform you how to do it. It’s typically not a job you want to DIY. What we can say is that it requires the correct blend of stone and epoxy in order to get it to adhere well. If you don’t get enough epoxy in the blend it will pull up and if you get too much, then the epoxy exposed to sunlight will amber despite the top coat of U.V. stable polyurea or polyaspartic.
If I have an area that dries thicker than it should, how can I fix It without redoing the entire floor? I didn’t completely spread properly and it dried too quickly for me to correct. I used rustoleum top coat.
Hi James. There isn’t much you can do once it has been applied and cured. The only option would be to sand down the area that looks to thick and then apply another coat. It would also require roughing up the rest of the floor if you are past the recoat window.
Quick question, how durable is the primer laid down over cured treated concrete. Can I prime the floor, then add two layers of High Solids Clear Polyurethane Coat Sealer (3mm) thickness and call it a day?
Hello John. As long as you prep the concrete properly with either an acid etch or grinding, a clear epoxy primer with a polyurethane top coat or two will work extremely well. Another option that does not require a primer would be a clear single-part polyurea. These are solvent-based coatings that penetrate and adhere well. This article explains what single-part polyurea is and even has an example of clear over bare concrete.
what about a solvent based acrylic urethane for a clear top coat?
Hello Robert. You need to make sure you are looking at a polyurethane designed for concrete coatings. Most solvent-based acrylic urethanes are for wood floors, furniture, and other wood finishes, though there are rare exceptions. These type of clear coatings have an amber tint and are not chemically compatible with epoxy.
Product is made be Marbelite in sarasota fl – called arylic urethane – technical data sheet says its made for concrete.
Yes, that acrylic polyurethane will work Robert. Just keep in mind that while the chemical resistance is still fairly good according to their data sheets, the abrasion resistance (how well it wears) is far below that of a good performing moisture cured or 2-part aliphatic polyurethane that is more commonly used for coatings. At 51% solids it will be a thinner mil coating as well when compared to the more typical 65-75% solids polyurethane coatings. Our article about how to read data sheets helps to compare coatings when you are shopping around.
Hello,
I acquired a few new kits (paint & hardener) of an aircraft grade polyurethane base coat paint (Hentzen Aerospace BC-1 series) and I want to know if I can use this paint on my garage concrete floor. I had planned on using an epoxy primer before hand. Do you see any reason I can’t use this specific paint on my floor?
Kind Regards,
Brian
Hello Brian. We tried to find a data sheet on BC-1, but the manufacture’s website does not provide it. BC-1 is a paint made for aircraft. It’s designed to adhere to aluminum skin and other aircraft exterior parts and is made specifically to stand up to the rigors of an air borne environment, sun, weather, and etc. What we can say for sure is that it’s not designed for foot traffic, vehicle traffic, and etc. Most of these products require a spray application and are applied very thin – not a good recipe for a concrete coating that requires mil thickness for durability. Not all polyurethanes are the same and most traditionally do not adhere well to concrete. They require an epoxy base coat or primer first. Of course you can always try it out if you are adventurous. The worst that would happen is that you would have to remove it via grinding. If you want to give it a go, we recommend first prepping the concrete via etching or grinding.
Hi there! Thanks for that very informative article.
My garage floor is ready for coating and I’m looking for polyurethane or urethane coating, but lots of articles mentionned that polyurethane or urethane might not bind well to bare concrete. Do we absolutely need to put a primer or otherwise, there’s a risk of peeling. Thanks! 🙂
Hello Guillaume. Is your goal a for a clear coating over the bare concrete?
exactly! the concrete has been diamond grinded and wash with acid. It’s ready for be sealed but I’m wondering if a epoxy primer is absolutely required and what will happen if I don’t add a primer.
OK. If you want to use polyurethane then you need to apply an epoxy primer first. Polyurethane does not adhere well to bare concrete. However, what we would recommend for you is a single-part polyurea. Polyurea is twice as thick as polyurethane and has the same performance characteristics. One coat would be the same as two coats of polyurethane. The impressive part though is that it can be applied directly to bare concrete. You can view our article here about single-part polyurea. It includes links to vendors and an image of bare concrete coated with it.
Thanks again Shea!
I look for polyurea available product, but the only one that I find is the Rust-Oleum RockSolid Clear Topcoat. As I want a clear coating, do you think that this one could bind well on bare and very porous concrete?
I have to say that my only concern about that product is that it might peel off after a while – it seems much thicker than polyurethane.
Thanks again for helping… it’s so complicated!
RockSolid is not a single-part polyurea, Guillaume. It’s a proprietary blend of coatings called polycuramine. We do not recommend it if you want a commercial quality coating. We list a number of vendors in the article that sell single-part polyurea. You will not find it at a home improvement center. Coatings like this are only available from vendors who specialize in concrete coatings. Single-part polyurea will not peel nor suffer from hot tire pickup when applied to a properly prepared concrete surface – period.
Well, here’s what has happened on a basement floor. I repaired cracks with a Legacy product and grinded the floor. I wasn’t comfortable in applying metallic epoxy and hired a floor contractor. He put down a primer then beautiful metallic epoxy. He forgot that my wife wanted some glitter and did not put it on top of the epoxy coat while it was setting. The next day that was realized. The solution? We put glitter down while the glossy “water-based urethane” was put down. It looks fine but it a little rough in areas. What can we put on top to help build it up and make it smoother? Today is day 3 since the topcoat application.
Hello Brian. What you need to do is apply another coat of polyurethane over it. Since your recoat window has expired, it will required that the surface be deglossed first by roughing it up with 120 grit sandpaper and then wiping it down with denatured alcohol on a microfiber pad. A floor buffing machine with a green scrub pad will do the same thing as the sandpaper if you want to get it done quicker. Legacy Industrial has an article here that you can read that discusses recoating as well.