The subject of a polyurethane or epoxy coating for a garage floor eventually comes up when deciding on what materials to use for your project. Admittedly, it can become a bit confusing when asking around or researching which floor coating is best to use.
Epoxy and polyurethane are great for protecting your garage floor against stains, damage, chemicals, oils, and wear. They are both light reflective, easy to clean, and long lasting. They also have their own advantages depending on the application.
So which one should you use and what is the difference? Well, the short answer for most applications is to use both. Let’s see why.
Epoxy Floor Coating Benefits
Epoxy is a thermosetting polymer coating that also acts as a concrete sealer. It is available in three different formulations; water based, solvent based, and 100% solids. These formulations allow for varying degrees of thickness from 3 mils to over 10 mils for a single coating. They can also dictate the ease of application, provide special bonding characteristics, and offer different VOC considerations.
Epoxy bonds extremely well to properly prepared concrete. It is sometimes used as a resurfacing agent for old or worn concrete and as a repair material for concrete cracks, pitting, and other surface repairs.
The best epoxy formulations are high solids to 100% solids. They are an extremely hard, thick, and impact resistant surface. This self-leveling thickness contributes to filling in the small hairline cracks and imperfections of the surface as well as providing a high build coating for protection.
They also work well against hot tire pick up and wear from abrasion. Though some epoxy formulas come with U.V. inhibitors, they will still eventually yellow or amber as the industry calls it when exposed to sunlight for any length of time. This is something to consider when choosing an epoxy garage floor coating.
Polyurethane Floor Coating Benefits
Like epoxy, polyurethane is a thermosetting polymer and considered a high performance coating. It is commonly known as urethane for short, though that it is technically incorrect. There is actually a big difference between polyurethane and urethane. If someone is advertising a urethane coating, it is actually polyurethane.
Of the different formulations available, aliphatic polyurethane is the desired choice for garage floors. Though they are approximately 60% to 70% solids depending on the manufacturer, a polyurethane coating is only about 2 to 3 mils in thickness. It can’t be applied any thicker in one application as some epoxy coatings can.
Don’t let the thinner dry film thickness fool you, however. Aliphatic polyurethane has more flexibility than epoxy which makes the surface much more scratch resistant. It also aids in absorbing impacts better and provides much higher abrasion resistance. In fact, some manufacturer’s claim that the wear resistance of polyurethane over epoxy is almost 3 to 1.
Polyurethane also has a higher resistance to chemicals than epoxy. This includes resistance to petroleum products and solvents, such as methylene chloride, which is the primary ingredient in paint stripper.
Another advantage of polyurethane over epoxy is that it is U.V. stable. This means that it won’t yellow like epoxy does when exposed to small amounts of sunlight over a period of time. It can also tolerate larger temperature swings and handles humidity much better.
Polyurethane concrete coatings have a very glossy finish, though some brands have the option of a satin finish. It is also a better medium than epoxy to mix in anti-slip aggregate if you want an anti-slip surface.
Despite the fact that polyurethane has many advantages over epoxy, it does not bond well to concrete. Its thin dry film thickness means that it is not a high build coating either. It will not work well to fill in small cracks and divots in the surface. Another consideration is that most polyurethanes are solvent based, meaning some can have high VOC’s and may not be shipped to your state or to particular counties.
Final Verdict
So, which should you use? As a rule, you will get maximum performance by using both polyurethane and epoxy together for your garage floor coating. Whether you are applying the coating yourself or hiring a professional, epoxy is best used for building up the thickness of your floor coating and providing color. You would then follow up with polyurethane as a clear coat to protect it. The clear coat will provide for a longer wearing and more scratch resistant surface.
If you don’t want to worry about yellowing at all, one option is to apply a full color flake floor. The acrylic color chips are U.V. stable and will not yellow. Follow up with a couple coats of clear polyurethane over the chips and yellowing will never be a problem.
Another option is to apply a colored polyurethane over an epoxy primer. You can then apply a clear polyurethane over that. This is an excellent choice for those that want a floor without color chips.
Something else to consider is that most epoxy clear coats are not actually crystal clear. Though they may be clear in color, there is still a slight tint to the coating. Polyurethane on the other hand is considered water clear. It can provide a very clear and glossy surface that gives your floor depth.
So unless you are just doing a one-coat epoxy coating for your garage, a combination of epoxy and polyurethane is almost always the best answer to get the maximum combined benefit out of both materials. The result is a high performance garage coating that will stand up to the rigors of a working garage for years to come.
Can I use a product that will withstand higher traffic areas better than this? Or will extra coats keep the gloss better in high traffic areas? Thanks again for all the help!
Extra coats do not create higher gloss if it was applied correctly, Brian. Did you use the Legacy Industrial high gloss water-based polyurethane? If so, it produces a very high gloss. However, if the coating was spread too thin, it can reduce the gloss somewhat. That is when an additional coat would become necessary.
I’ve painted garage concrete floor with RockSolid paint. I’ve applied one coat and sprinkled the flakes. In some areas paint colour is darker and in others a tad lighter. I am not entirely very happy with final result. I wish I used a primer or two coats to achieve better result. Is it possible to paint it over again with the same paint? Will it create more problem as flakes already applied to the floor? Thanks.
Hello Kat. Yes, you can coat right over the previous one as long as you do it within 7 days of the first coat being applied. If it’s past the 7 days, you will need to rough up the surface first with 120 grit sandpaper. Apply color flakes just as you did the first coat.
Most polyurethane are used for wood application. I wonder if anyone knows where to buy the polyurethane for the garage floor? We have applied the full color flakes on the garage floor on top of the epoxy primer, but we can’t find the polyurethane top coat online as most of them are for wood application.
Can anyone please advise?
Hi Gill. You will not find polyurethane coatings for concrete from home improvement centers or hardware stores. It needs to be purchased from vendors online that are concrete coating specialist. Our sponsor Legacy Industrial is one such example. You can view their polyurethanes here. In fact, many of our sponsors that sell coatings carry polyurethane (urethane for short) as well.
So which is better for a pool area epoxy or polyurethane which has a better life time and which one provides less slipping when water on it. thank you
Hi Mark. Epoxy is not an outdoor coating and should not be used on a pool deck. It U.V. rays over time will cause it to yellow and oxidize. While polyurethane will hold up against the sun, it’s not ideal on its own either. There are specialty coatings made for such purposes that typically consist of acrylic or polyurea. Here is an example. For further info, just look for pool deck coatings.
Hi all,
I have a question regarding the polyurethane coatings – specifically, the Poly200 top coat available as an option in the https://www.epoxy-coat.com/product/better-full-kit/ kit.
For a garage application with a co-located furnace and (gas+pilot) water heater, it seems like the polyurethane has a high VOC content that would necessitate turning those units off during application and curing. Also, the SDS for the compound looks, to put it plainly, rather alarming.
So I was wondering:
1. Does a P100 mask count as a suitable respirator? Other than keeping the garage door and window fully open, are there any other precautions that need to be taken? (eg. perhaps insulating the door between house and garage?)
2. Are there limits to the ambient temperature range that this product can be applied in or cured in? How hot can it get?
3. How long does the product take to cure, and how long will it be emitting fumes that can go boom with the furnace?
4. And on a related note, how long is it before the furnace and pilot lights can be turned on again? And how long, before one can walk in the garage again without a respirator, with garage door closed?
Thanks for all the great content on this site – it has been invaluable during this process (and your review of this vendor was one of the things that tipped me towards them as well).
Hi Arjun. When dealing with VOC’s you need to use a respirator rated for organic gasses. You can usually find them at your local home improvement centers for around $30 dollars or so for the inexpensive ones. The P series masks filter out particulates only and not organic vapors. Turn off any open flames (pilot light) in the garage before you start. You can relight the flame as soon as you can walk on the floor (10-12 hours). Placing a towel at the bottom of the door that enters the house will be fine. The smell starts dissipating fairly quickly after the coating has been applied and begins the curing process. A light smell will linger for a few days then be gone. Typically, you can begin moving things back onto the floor after 48 hours and cars after 72 hours or so. Don’t apply if the substrate temp is within 5 degrees of the dew point. Most minimum and maximum application temps are similar to epoxy – 60 degrees to 90 degrees. Do not apply if humidity will exceed 80% anytime during the application a curing process the first 48 hours. Also, don’t hesitate to call their tech line with questions.
Thank you so much!
Hello, I just applied a waterbased latex 1 part epoxy paint (Drylok E1) to an etched and degreased concrete garage floor. It came out great but now I want to topcoat it with a clear product to lock in the flakes. Can you tell me if I can use a waterbased urethane product like Armorseal 1k as this clear topcoat?
Thank you!
Hello Mike. Technically you can apply a water-based polyurethane. It will require sanding the surface first with 120 grit sandpaper to provide the proper finish for it to adhere. Something to consider is that 1-part epoxy is not designed nor intended for a clear coat. The polyurethane clear coat will cost more the paint and it’s not going to protect the actual paint from hot tire pickup. You may be investing more money than you want for a surface that will still have a chance for hot tire pickup.
I ordered my epoxy from Epoxy Coat to complete my garage renovation. I added to the order their primer as well a polyurethane top coat. The package I ordered has a color base coat, color flakes and a clear epoxy top coat. Your thoughts on still using the clear coat on the base and color flakes then using polyurethane for a higher build. Not sure what else I could purpose it for
Also your thoughts on applying epoxy primer over Level Quick RS. I have a small area I’d like raise at least closer to level. Thank you
Hi Greg. Are you applying a light coverage of color flakes or is it a full flake coverage? Do not use the Level Quick RS. It is a self-leveling underlayment and not a wear surface. It has a lower compression and abrasion strength and should only be used when a full floor covering such as carpet, tile, or wood is being applied over it. It is not for automotive use. You need to use polymer-modified cement or epoxy slurry. This article here explains more.
I have been using Behr waterproofing stain and sealer #900 on my garage floor and I am pretty happy with it. But I am interested in topping it with a gloss epoxy polyurea or polyurethane product what would be recommended. I spoke to Behr customer service they recommended a water based epoxy or polyurethane product.
Hi John. The product you have used is essentially a tinted acrylic sealer. It’s intended as a single product (one-and-done) application. Acrylic sealers are not designed to be topped with anything other than a similar acrylic. 2-part resinous coating are not chemically compatible with acrylics and would require that you degloss and rough up the surface first in order to achieve a mechanical bond. In addition, only a water-based product will work. Solvent-based products will cause the acrylic to soften and bleed through the clear coat. Water-based clear epoxy is getting harder find an would cost three times what you paid for the Behr product. Here is an example. Proper water-based polyurethane coatings for concrete are even more expensive and polyurea is not available in a water-based product. You would essentially be spending much more money for a clear coat than what you paid for the color coat. Lastly, though it technically can be done as described, the coating system would not be any less susceptible to hot tire pickup since it’s the acrylic coating that is applied to the concrete and not the clear coat.
Can one put down a golf cart carpet after the floor is cured.?
And if yes, does one put down the rubber/ carpet side or the softer fabric side?
Does it need to be removed from time to time?
Hi Mea. Carpet side goes up. You shouldn’t need to move it after that unless you take it outside to hose it or wash it off.
Best for forklift and pallet jack traffic ?
Hi John. Floors that will see forklift and basic warehouse style of traffic should have a solid foundation of 100% solids epoxy. It will wear better and show less scratches and rubber marks if a high-performance polyurethane or polyurea is used on top with an anti-wear additive mixed in. You can tint the polyurethane or polyurea to match the epoxy or you can go with a clear.
What is my best option if I really want to achieve a European “poured resin” look where the floor is seamless, unicolor, and ultra matte finish?
Hello Pablo. You would require a 100% solids epoxy that is poured out and spread with a gauge rake and then back rolled. All cracks and contraction joints (not expansion joints) would need to be filled prior. These types of floors are expensive because the coverage rate of the epoxy is reduced to 50-80 square feet per gallon in order to achieve the leveled and flat look. A satin polyaspartic top coat is then applied over it.
Thank you so much for that information. That’s really helpful!
Two follow-up questions —
(1) Let’s say you prep the floor (etch and clean it, fill cracks and voids, clean it again, vaccuum it), is it then possible to get that leveled and flat look you mentioned if you just use a “self-leveling” product in the first place?
(2) Let’s say if I was OK with paying a premium to get that look — all other things being equal, what would you imagine to be a reasonable Cost per Square Foot for that kind of a job? (I want to get bids but don’t know what is within reason and what’s highway robbery, haha)
No, not necessarily. Sometimes it requires both. 100% epoxy properly poured and back rolled at the proper depth will always provide a more leveled look. However, if the concrete is not real flat to begin with, it will take a lot of epoxy which can get very expensive. A self-leveling polymer-modified concrete such as Ardex K15 will sometimes be required to help level out the floor and then the epoxy will be applied thickly as required. Cost for such a project all depends on the condition and how level the existing slab is. You can expect to pay between $7 – $10 per square foot for such a project, sometimes higher.
Hi I just finished putting down Armstrong vinyl floor tile in my garage I really want the checkered look did everything that the manufacturer wanted but the tiles still want to lift can I clear coat the floor and will that help or is there anything else that I can do thanks
Hi Ken. No, clear coating the tiles will not work. All you will do is create an even bigger problem when a tile lifts and takes the coating with it. What you have is an adhesion problem that needs to be rectified. Was there a sealer on the concrete? Properly installed, the tiles should not be lifting.
Yes. I did the one that the manufacturer suggested
You didn’t state what they recommended, Ken. If there was a sealer on the concrete, then the surface should have been roughed up via grinding or heavy sanding first before the glue was applied. If this in not done, then the glue will not adhere well to the concrete.
i live in wi so was wondering what would be a better product to use epoxy or poly,,,wi uses salt in winter,,,wondering how that will affect the poly or epoxy,,and extremely cold temperatures thanks jeff
Hi Jeff. You would need a quality epoxy or polyurea system for the area of the country you live in. The DIY Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield and similar kits are good example of what NOT to apply. They might make it through one winter, maybe two, and then that would be it. Polyurethane is good, but it has to be applied over epoxy, not bare concrete. Is this something you are looking to apply yourself? If so, let us know and we can point you towards some examples. If you are looking to hire the work out, we have an article here on how find a good concrete coating company or contractor. The type of systems they install perform great as well.
Definitely leave it to the pros,,, Just want to know if I should go some epoxy or poly. I had one contractor who uses a poxy which would cost 3 Grand,,said the polyurea will only last a year or 2 then start to peel up from the salt,,,while the polyurea guy said salt won’t hurt it,,,and the cost is half,,,confused which one to use?
An epoxy or polyurea system is going to do well. We prefer the epoxy hybrid systems because the epoxy tends to bond better and get a thicker coating in most cases. It does take two or three days to complete. The advantage with the polyurea coating systems is that they cure fast and the installation only takes one day.
When hiring a contractor and having a garage floor professionally installed, what do you recommend choosing between polyaspartic vs. epoxy?
Hi Chris. We can’t answer that question outright. It all depends on the performance of the EXACT products they are using, the amount of coats used, and how the entire floor coating system is put together. We highly recommend that you read our article here about choosing a garage floor coating contractor. It includes much information about floor coatings and also includes a link that discusses and shows how to read data sheets on products. This is what allows you to actually compare one type of coating to another. Vague descriptions from installers who say their stuff is best is mostly worthless to be honest. The data sheets tell the story. Once you get more information, you can check back with us if you like.
Hi Shea,
I’ve got a Rustoleum epoxy coating down from a few years back – looking thin/worn in areas. Have sanded it down, now wondering if I should use a water-based or solvent based polyurethane product? Pros/cons?
Or- am I better off just sticking with epoxy, but perhaps a commercial grade?
Thanks in advance!
Hello Tom. Are you down to the bare concrete in areas?
Hi Shea,
Thanks for the quick response. Several scratches with some delamination, but nothing major. Also have a 2×2 area under a gun safe that I lazily ‘went around’ with the Rustoleum, but plan to move to finish the floor in entirety this time- so this area is polished concrete, but yes, bare, without epoxy.
-Tom
Hi Tom. Polyurethane will not adhere well to bare concrete, so that would rule it out. Also, the surface area where the concrete is polished will need to be treated to grinding in order to provide the proper profile and open up the pores. Etching will suffice if what you meant is just smooth concrete and not a mechanically polished surface. Is this space within the home (indoors) or an attached garage?
It’s indoors. So sanding won’t suffice?
I did no floor prep to the polished floors prior to Rustoleum.. so, in hindsight, wondering if this why we’ve had adherence issues vs just using an inferior product. Hmm..
It sounds like epoxy is the only way to go. But I guess hoping for confirmation that sanding the entire floor will allow for enough of a mechanical bond for this to adhere?
And any particular product you’d point me towards?
Ahh… that definitely explains the issue you are having, particularly when the coating has only been exposed to foot traffic and not vehicles. Coatings will not adhere to mechanically polished concrete – period. The pores are far to tight and the surface far too smooth from the polishing process. The only product you can apply to polished concrete are called stain guards. This is a penetrating type of sealer that leaves an extremely thin film/residue on the surface. Once applied, the surface is then treated to high speed buffing to bring out the shine. These guards help to protect the surface from staining, but they are not stain proof. They essentially act as a sacrificial layer in order to buy time to clean up stain causing chemicals and foods.
If you properly prep the surface for a coating, it will permanently reverse the effects and cosmetics of the polished surface and bring it back to its original state, but with a rougher finish for a coating. It will also lighten the color, though it does darken back some with a clear coating. Sanding does not work well for regular concrete and not at all on polished concrete. The polishing process hardens the surface. You will need to grind the surface in order to prep it properly.
We know this is not what you wanted to hear, but it’s important to get the correct info before making a decision on what to do. You may want to consider chemically stripping the rest of the epoxy and then treating the surface to a good cleaning and then buffing using a guard sealer.
Hi again Shea (it won’t allow me to respond to the latest comment on the thread).
Man.. I understand everything you’re saying but I feel like I’m banging my head against the wall. Sounds like our concrete company should have never told us to epoxy in the first place. (They’re still suggesting a polymer coating to us by the way for diy, but my trust in them is lacking to say the least).
I’ll be honest, this is not our forever home and we want something to hold up and look good for the next few years (and avoid making any more mistakes). The floors are polished and I believe are acid stained if that’s a thing?
So, what would happen if I epoxied over our sanded polished floors at this point? Keep in mind, the Rustoleum looked really great for the first year or so.. just didn’t hold up well to scratching. So makes me question if a thicker (100 solids) epoxy would hold up decently for a few years longer..?
Is a polyurethane at all an option now knowing about the polished concrete w/ the epoxy layer?
Some sort of acrylic?
Or .. is the only option to chemically strip and seal/buff as you said?
Can’t tell you how disappointed I am in these highly expensive polished floors.
Really appreciate your knowledge and advice.
Hi Tom. All we can really do is advise. We are assuming the concrete company is not the one who actually polished your floor. The people who polished it would know better than to try and apply a coating. Polyurethane does not adhere well to standard concrete and it for sure is not going to adhere much if at all on polished concrete. If you sanded the polished concrete where the coating lifted, then the gloss is most likely gone. This generally requires a fine re-polish to bring that back. And to do that properly, it will require stripping the remaining epoxy in order for the full floor to match up properly. At this point you would want to apply a guard sealer. This would be the proper way to fix the floor.
Applying an epoxy over it will bring the gloss back, but you are going to encounter the same problem with delamination and you did with the Rust-Oleum. An acrylic can be applied (very thin coats) and it may even adhere slightly better than the epoxy, but it’s not going to be nearly as durable. Also, there will be a cosmetic difference where it coats the bare concrete vs the concrete that still has epoxy on it.
Hi Shea,
I am confused, this article says that polyurethane for garage floors is not a good choice but there are other articles in this same network that says that they are the best choice for garage floors considering that they are less prone to hot tire pickup and UV stable. So, is polyurethane coating a good option for exterior garage floor that is under a carport (i.e., outdoor but partially protected from the elements)? This will be a DIY project for a 300ft surface with a modest budget (~$500-$1000).
Thanks
Hi Cass. We don’t state that polyurethane is not good for garage floors anywhere in the article. What we do state is that it does not bond well to bare concrete. When using a typical polyurethane concrete coating, it’s almost always applied over an epoxy coating. Something to consider is that coatings are not always the best choice for use outdoors. They can get very slippery when wet. It’s highly recommended to mix in an anti-slip aggregate into the final coat. In addition, many are not approved for outdoor use due to U.V. exposure and direct sunlight. They will amber (turn yellow tint) and sometimes chalk up. If you want to use a coating, we would recommend a single-part polyurethane such as DuraGrade Concrete. This is a special formulation that works well direct to concrete and it’s approved for outdoors.
Hi Shea, Thank you for the clarification. I have a follow-up question because i was also looking into DuraGrade product. The website says that no etching is required. However, although most of my concrete is permeable via the water test there are a few areas that are not. Should these areas be etched? i don’t think i am a grinder person. Second, it says two coats minimum. Could that two coats include one color and a second clear coat if i am using flakes or i need two color coats plus a clear coat (3 coats). Thank you in advance for helpful guidance, Cass
Those areas can be etched or sanded with 60 grit sandpaper according to Rust Bullet. You just need water to penetrate. Color coats require a minimum of two coats to get even color tone and gloss. So it would require a total of three coats for a color base, color flakes, and clear coat.
Hi Shea,
Fellow researcher here that really appreciates the info you provide.
I am very interested in the Nohr-S® Polyurea kit’s however they do not ship to Canada. Do you have any advice on partners for your friends up north?
Hi Ryan. Check with Garage Flooring LLC. They are located in the states, but known for shipping to Canada. They have an excellent single-part polyurea as well which we discuss in this article. There are links in the article to contact them.
How long between laying concrete and applying the epoxy and polyurethane
Hi Helen. You need to wait a minimum of 30 days before applying a coating to new concrete.
Which is the best product to use on an old rough, spalled floor with under slab heating.?
Hello Bill. Ideally, the surface should be properly repaired first before using any type of coating. High solids and particularly 100% solids epoxy provides the highest build. However, it will not smooth over such a floor. Polyurethane is to be used as a topcoat and does not apply directly to bare concrete well.
How long must a new concrete floor cure before it can be treated with epoxy or polyurethane?
Hi Frank. You need to wait a minimum of 30 days for a standard 4″ concrete slab to cure after a new pour.
You mentioned urathanes don’t bond well to concrete, but isn’t Hellfire, TruAlloy, RustBullet, ect urathanes? Do they not bond as well as epoxy?
Hi Taylor and great question! Yes, many polyurethanes still do not bond well to bare concrete. However, newer formulations have come about since we first wrote this article over 9 years ago. The ones you mention are newer single-part tinted polyurethanes that are moisture cured. They are not intended for coverage over or under epoxy. They have been developed and designed to work on their own or as a system together. They are not intended to bond chemically to epoxy. However, as with most coating, if you rough up the epoxy surface after 24 hours, you can apply them to the epoxy.
I want a polyureathane flooring applied to my 2car cement garage floor. I sent this information before but I haven’t heard from you!
Hello Frederick. Is this a statement or a question? We are happy to answer any questions. Just to remind you, All Garage Floors is an informational website only. We are here to provide information and unbiased reviews on garage flooring products and coatings that you can’t find anywhere else. We do not sell products on our site or do installations. However, we can recommend vendors for purchase if you plan on doing it yourself.