We know that choosing a clear top coat for a garage floor coating can get confusing. With several formulations available, how do you know which is best for you? Which type you choose may also depend on whether you are applying it yourself or having it professionally installed. For this reason, we have decided to review the various clear coat options available to help you decide which is best suited for you.
A clear top coat has many benefits. Besides enhancing the look of your color coat, it will also protect the optional color flakes and the rest of the coating from the numerous elements that a garage floor encounters. It does this by acting as the sacrificial layer.
The number one rule when choosing a clear top coat for your garage floor coating; The top coat should be of equal or greater performance than the epoxy base coat. Remember, your coating is only as good as the weakest link. It will only perform as well as the final coat that is applied.
With these factors in mind, let’s review the different clear coat options available for your garage floor coating.
Epoxy Clear top coats
The most well-known option for a clear top coat is epoxy. It’s available in water based, solvent based, and 100% solids formulations. This can allow for quite a bit of flexibility depending on your requirements.
The main advantage of epoxy for a clear top coat is cost. Epoxy is the least expensive option in most cases and as long as it’s not solvent based, it will be low in VOC’s as well.
Epoxy can also provide for a thicker single coating of up to 10 mils depending on the solids content. If you have a full coverage application of color flakes, this can reduce the number of coats to properly cover the flakes down to as little as one single coat.
Pros
- Lower cost
- Low in VOC’s (solvent based the exception)
- Good chemical resistance
- High dry film thickness of up to 10 mils requiring fewer coats
Cons
- Less abrasion resistance than other coatings
- Scratches easier
- Not U.V. stable – ambers with yellow tint if exposed to sunlight
- Lack of flexibility
- Not exceptionally clear
- Slippery when wet
While the cost can certainly be attractive, epoxy as a clear coat does have its drawbacks and is usually the least desirable of top coat options. There are a few reasons for this.
Typically, epoxy is the least abrasion resistant of garage floor coatings. This means that it will wear faster, particularly the less expensive water based products.
Epoxy also scratches easier. The primary reason for this is that it cures to such an extremely hard coating that lacks any flexibility. This combination of hard surface and lack of flexibility can have many benefits in a high build color coat, but it causes small granules of dirt and sand to act like sandpaper when walking or driving over it.
While many of these scratches can be microscopic in nature, an abundance of them will degloss the finish after a while and give it a dull appearance. This can increase the effort of keeping the floor clean. Scratches can be much more noticeable with darker base coat colors and/or darker color flake applications as well.
Most epoxy is not water clear either. It actually has a slight tint to it that can look cloudy when compared to other top coat options. And despite the addition of U.V. stabilizing agents, epoxy will eventually amber when exposed (directly or indirectly) to sunlight.
If an epoxy top coat is all the budget will allow, however, don’t fret. It is still a much better option than no top coat at all. It will still protect the base color coat and color flakes (if applied), while also increasing the durability and longevity of your garage floor coating.
Polyurethane top coats
Up until the last few years, polyurethane, also known as “urethane” for short, has long been considered the high performance top coat option for garage floor coatings. And for most DIY applications, it still is.
The majority of polyurethane coatings are solvent based with the highest performing of these being the 2-Part aliphatic polyurethanes. The single part moisture cured urethanes generally come in a close second.
The exception to this is the newer water based, low VOC polyurethane coatings that are manufactured for parts of the country that have high VOC restrictions. Areas of Southern California are a good example. While these newer water based polyurethanes do not perform quite as well as their solvent based counter parts, they still perform better as a clear top coat when compared to the majority of epoxies available.
The most predominant benefit of polyurethane is high abrasion resistance. Abrasion is what wears down a garage floor coating and polyurethane can have up to 3 times the abrasion resistance of some of the best epoxy coatings.
It is also more resistant to chemicals. This can be a big benefit for the mechanic worried about chemical spills such as brake fluid, parts cleaners, and strong solvents.
Polyurethane is also U.V. stable. This means it will not amber when exposed to sunlight. When applied over epoxy, it will not completely stop the epoxy from turning amber, but it will slow down the process significantly.
If yellowing of the color coat is a strong concern, polyurethane can also be tinted to create a U.V. stable color coat that will not amber. This is a popular top coat option for those that prefer a solid color floor coating without color flakes.
Because polyurethane coatings have more flexibility than epoxy, they are much more resistant to the microscopic scratches and marks that epoxy can acquire. As a result, it holds its gloss much better and makes for an excellent choice to apply over metallic epoxy coatings and darker colors that show scratches easier.
Polyurethane is also very clear, it has a glossier finish, and it is more resistant to tire marks and stains. In addition, if you don’t care for the glossy look, it is one of the few coatings that are available in a satin finish.
Lastly, polyurethane is one of the easier top coats to apply. It has a much longer pot life and can be rolled out of a paint tray in most cases.
Pros
- High abrasion resistance for longer wear
- Excellent chemical resistance
- U.V. stable (will not amber)
- Better scratch resistance
- Cures very clear
- High gloss and optional satin finish available
- Good medium for anti-slip aggregate
- Now available in better water based formulas to meet VOC restrictions
- Easy to apply
Cons
- Thin dry film thickness can require multiple coats
- Does not adhere well to bare concrete
- Cost – more expensive than epoxy
- High VOC’s (water based the exception)
There are some things to consider when choosing polyurethane, however.
Though polyurethane can have a high solids content of over 70%, it has a dry film thickness of only 2-3 mils. It cannot be applied thicker like epoxy to compensate or you will experience bubbles, cloudiness, and a poor cure. This is why it does not make for a good build coat.
The thin dry film thickness also means that it can require applying multiple coats depending on the amount of color flakes applied. If no color flakes are applied, you can apply as little as one coat. A full color flaked garage floor can require up to 3 coats in order to properly fill-in all the irregularities and cavities that a full color flaked surface can create.
There is a benefit to the thin dry film thickness, however. It makes for a good medium to apply anti-slip aggregate. Anti-slip has been known to sink and be less effective in thicker coatings requiring a bigger diameter aggregate that is more visible.
Another consideration is expense. While one gallon of polyurethane is more expensive than high solids epoxy, the coverage rate can sometimes be more than double that of epoxy. If you only need 1 coat, it can actually be less expensive to use. However, if you need to apply 3 to 4 coats to cover all your color flakes properly, it will be more expensive than a single coat of high solids epoxy.
Polyurethane also has a higher VOC content than most epoxies due to its solvent base which requires that precautions be taken with application. A respirator should be worn and all open flames in the work area need to be extinguished. Always check with the manufacturer or vendor you are purchasing from about these precautions.
Polyurea and Polyaspartic top coats
The interest in 2-part polyurea and polyaspartic coatings for garage floors has grown tremendously in the last several years. New formulations that allow for better application techniques have made these a popular choice for the commercial garage floor coating market.
Why? Besides performance benefits, the fast cure rates allow for a 1 day installation of a complete floor coating system. This can be a big advantage for those that can’t live without their garage for more than a day.
Polyurea is a subgroup of polyurethane. Polyaspartic, technically known as polyaspartic aliphatic polyurea or PAP for short, is a type of polyurea. Both have similar benefits to polyurethane in terms of durability and protection, as well other benefits that polyurethane does not have.
As we stated, one of the main benefits to these coatings are the fast cure rates of only one to two hours. Since most coatings require that you wait a minimum of 8 to 12 hours before reapplication, multiple coats can be applied in less than a day.
Polyurea and polyaspartic coatings are also thicker than polyurethane. With an average dry film thickness of 4 to 8 mils for a garage floor application, 1 to 2 coats is all that is required.
Additional benefits include an extremely clear and glossy finish – even more so than polyurethane. High solids applications are low in VOC’s as well.
Polyurea and polyaspartic coatings are also more flexible (relatively speaking) than polyurethane. This makes them slightly more scratch resistant and impact resistant.
One last additional benefit is the ability to apply it in a much wider range of cooler and warmer temperatures. This really isn’t a consideration though if you are using epoxy as your base coat since it is less tolerant to temperature extremes during application.
Pros
- Excellent abrasion and chemical resistance
- U.V. stable
- Very high gloss finish
- Water clear
- Fast cure rates
- Slightly better scratch and impact resistance than polyurethane
- Low VOC’s for most high solids applications
Cons
- Most expensive coating option
- Very short pot life
- Not easy to apply – experience required
- Very slippery when wet
- Some formulations not as resistant to battery acids
While polyurea and polyaspartic coatings can make for an excellent top coat, there are some downsides.
The first is cost. Polyurea and polyaspartic are the most expensive of floor coating options to choose from. This is why polyurethane is still such a popular choice when the benefits are so similar.
Another is application. These coatings are not DIY friendly. Because they cure so fast, they can have an extremely short pot life of only 20 minutes. Unless you have prior experience with multiple coatings, applying these can be nerve racking and almost never go on smoothly for the average DIY application. They are best left to the professional to install.
Some manufacturers have been able to extend the pot life of these coatings with different formulations that are less in solids content. This can make them easier to apply, but it also makes for a thinner dry film thickness and higher VOC’s due to the higher solvent content.
Lastly, polyurea and polyaspartic are the most slippery of coatings when they get wet. This is mostly due to the very glossy finish. While they do meet ASTM coefficient of friction ratings when dry, a little bit of water or spilled fluids can make them slippery. It’s generally recommended to use an anti-slip additive in the final coat regardless of the climate you live in unless precautions to avoid a wet floor are taken.
*** update ***
There are now new single-part moisture cured polyurea coatings that are available. These new coatings have similar performance benefits as the 2-part fast curing polyurea and polyaspartic coatings, but are much easier to install with almost unlimited pot life. As a result, these are a great choice for DIY installation.
These coatings have a dry film thickness that is twice that of polyurethane and are available in clear as well as colored tints. You can learn more about single-part polyurea here.
Clear top coats to avoid
The one clear coat option you want to avoid for your epoxy garage floor is acrylic. Sometimes referred to as a “glaze coat” with some garage flooring kits, acrylic coatings are very thin and do not perform nearly as well as epoxy.
Acrylic coatings lack the same wear resistance, stain resistance, and scratch resistance. In addition, solvents such as gasoline and other automotive chemicals can cause some acrylic coatings to soften and smear.
Furthermore, they can only achieve a mechanical bond to epoxy where as the previous coatings discussed can achieve a superior chemical bond. In short, an acrylic top coat violates the number one rule. You would essentially be applying an inferior top coat that will reduce the performance of the overall garage floor coating.
Clear acrylic coatings are best used for clear coats on decorative concrete such as patios, walkways, and porches where foot traffic is the primary wear source.
Lastly, we suggest you read our article about mistakes to avoid when choosing a clear coat. Trying to buy a clear coat for a 1-part epoxy paint is one of those mistakes.
If you have applied or are thinking of applying a 1-part epoxy paint, then you cannot apply a clear coat to it. 1-part epoxy paints are an acrylic latex paint with a little bit of epoxy resin added for durability. This article here explains the difference. None of the clear coats discussed above are compatible with paint.
Final thoughts
Though epoxy is less expensive in most cases, it’s not the best choice as a top coat for a typical garage floor unless you are on a tight budget. It is still much better than not using a top coat at all, however.
For most people, polyurethane is likely the best choice as a clear top coat option. It’s one of the easiest to apply, it is U.V. stable, and provides many of the same benefits as a polyurea or polyaspartic coating, but usually at a lower cost. Plus, the thinner dry film thickness makes for a great medium to apply anti-slip aggregate if you so desire.
While a polyurea or polyaspartic top coat can make for an excellent choice, it’s best used if you choose to have your garage floor coating professionally installed. Many installers offer complete polyurea/polyaspartic garage flooring systems which can be a big advantage if you need to have it installed in the colder winter months or you are on a tight schedule and need it installed in a day.
Also, many of these same installers offer a hybrid of epoxy base coats and polyurea/polyaspartic top coats which can reduce the cost of the installation, yet provide the same benefits in terms of performance.
Finally, if you still have questions about the best top coat for your garage floor coating, be sure to consult with the vendor or floor coating contractor you intend to purchase from. Ask to review the TDS Sheets if they are not available online. And when installing a floor coating yourself, be sure to ask about compatibility if you are not using products from the same manufacturer.
Tom says
Hello, I purchased and laid down a coat of Rust-oleum Concrete and garage Floor paint + Primer, it will require a 2nd coat sadly, the label says it is an advanced forumla acrylic, it is anew product to our local store, it has a very dull finish and does not look like you will be able to mop anything up (such as oil and such) so I was hoping for a clear top coats, what would you recommend? the fols at store did not have an idea, I must move stuff back on this ASAP (tool boxes, M/c lifts ect ect, had I realied how dull this would be I would not have purchased this particular produc t, my bare floors were a very slick surface to begin with Thank you – Tom
Shea says
Hello Tom. Sorry we couldn’t answer immediately. This is a busy time of the year for us with people asking questions about their projects. Unfortunately, the product you applied is just a water-based acrylic paint for concrete. It is an inexpensive option for someone who wants to paint (it’s not a coating) their garage floor. If you have a busy garage in which you use for automotive and motorcycle repairs, it will not stand up for very long to that type of work. You will develop hot tire lift at some point and chemicals such as gasoline and solvents will soften the paint. Technically you could apply a water-based acrylic clear over the paint, but it would not help to improve the situation. Products such as these are best for floors that mainly see foot traffic only or very light automotive traffic. This article here explains the difference between paint and coatings. This one here talks about what you should know before choosing a clear coat.
Our suggestion is to just live with what you have currently. Once you have the time and/or budget for a proper coating system, you can then grind the remainder of the paint off the floor and apply a much better system.
Andrew says
Hi, I unfortunately used the Rustoleum epoxyshied to cover my garage floors but am pleased with the results so far. I wasn’t originally planning to put a clear coat over it but after reading this article I’ve decided to find a clear epoxy coat (on a budget) to add more protection. Is there any clear coat epoxies you would recommend to use?
Thanks in advance!
Shea says
Hi Andrew. We recommend that you stay within the manufacturer’s own line and use Rust-Oleum clear epoxy. You can find it here from Amazon if your local home improvement center does not have it. You will need to rough up the surface of the current epoxy with 120 grit sandpaper before you can apply it since we assume it will be over 3 days since you applied the current epoxy.
Cristy says
Tom, did you find a solution to this? We just purchased the same paint+primer and was surprised at the dull finish as well. Looking for a top sealer.
Shea says
Hi Christy. Hopefully, Tom can back to you. In the meantime, Rust-Oleum has created a new product that you can use on their garage floor paints (not coatings). It’s called Rust-Oleum Clear Finish Topcoat. You can find it here on Amazon. Some home improvement centers are beginning to carry it as well. It’s a water-based acrylic clear coat with a gloss finish that is compatible with paint (not coatings). It won’t make the paint color glossy, but the finish of the clear coat is. We do not recommend the garage floor paint or the clear topcoat if this is for a garage with vehicle traffic. It’s not a long-lasting flooring solution and you will experience hot tire pickup (peeling) where the car tires sit. It does not matter what the marketing on the can says – it will happen. If it’s for foot traffic only, then this combination will work fine. This article hear discusses applying clear coats to paint. In addition, this article here discusses the differences in paint vs coatings so that you get a better idea of what you are purchasing. I hope the additional information helps.
Bill says
I am looking for a top coat with more traction. Most of the systems I have been using are too slick. What product do you recommend?
Shea says
Hello Bill. In order to increase traction and improve grip, coatings need to have a non-slip additive mixed into the final coat. This article here explains what that is and how it works.
Bill says
Specifically what product do you recommend? I have been using a polyurea top coat and it is too slick when wet.
Shea says
The mirconized polymer anti-slip media is the preferred, Bill. Brand does not really matter. A fine grit, also known as 40 mesh, is the typical sized media to use for thinner top coats such as low solids epoxy, acrylics, polyurethanes, polyureas and polyaspartics. You can elect for a courser grit, but it will tend to make cleaning more difficult and will significantly degloss the clear coat since the larger media is easier to see and creates a cloudy effect in the clear. Here is an example of product you can purchase.
Charlie says
Hey there,
I live in California and have been repairing our very old garage floor. I removed the carpet and used a grinder to get rid of the adhesive. I patched the cracks with the Rust-oleum concrete patch and repair epoxy and I’m planning to use the Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Semi-Gloss Professional Floor Coating Kit (no flakes). We are using the garage as an extra room for activities, not car storage. I have two questions:
I have two large holes (7″ deep) that I need to fill. Can I use the Quikrete vinyl concrete patcher and then use the EpoxyShield coating over the top of the concrete? (after it fully cures)
And what polyurethane top coat would you recommend given I’m in California?
Thanks
Shea says
Hi Charlie. For repairs that deep, you are better off using Quikrete Polymer Modified Structural Repair. Home Depot has been known to carry it. The Quikrete Vinyl Concrete Patcher generally cannot be applied more than 2″ thick and would require multiple applications. Just make sure to grind your repairs smooth after it cures. Regarding the polyurethane, it really depends on what part of California you live in. The Rust-Oleum Professional is solvent based, so if you were able to procure that then you most likely do not live in the more stringent SCAQMD area of the state. The Epoxy Super Store should be able to provide you with an option.
Dan S. says
I have rocksolid which is a polycuramine (solvent base) epoxy base coat. Can I use a polyurethane or another clear top coat that has UV protection in it on the top of the polycuramine base?
Shea says
Hello Dan. Yes, you can apply a polyurethane over RockSolid. However, it is not going to prevent ambering of the RockSolid color coat. It may slow the process down somewhat, but the ultraviolet rays will get through the polyurethane clear. The polyurethane clear coat will not amber though.
Dan S. says
Thanks Shea; for your reply but now I have another question. If I do a 100% paint chip coverage over the top of the polycuramie base coat and than go with two coats of polyurethane clear coat (on top of the paint chips); do you think I would still have that amber discoloration problem.
P.S. Where is the cheapest place to buy 50 lbs. of paint chips?
Shea says
Hi Dan. Yes, a full flake floor with a polyurea or polyurethane clear coat will not amber since the color flakes are U.V. stable. However, RockSolid is a poor medium to disperse full flakes. You need a minimum dry film thickness of 5-6 mils for all the chips required to take hold. RockSolid is a thin coating to begin with and has a dry film thickness of only 3 mils on a good day. If you want to do a full flake floor, then we would recommend a quality high solids (>90%) epoxy for the flakes. Either that or do your floor with a single-part polyurea kit. These kits are much better than RockSolid and they will not amber since they are polyurea. Garage Flooring LLC is a good place to purchase color flakes.
Spencer says
I used H&C Shield Crete kits to redo my garage floors, including two coats of the Shield Crete Epoxy (water based). The top coat is thin and does not seem to be providing much protection. The flakes are not covered and I’m already seeing flaking. They informed me that they do not have a better topcoat. Do you have a brand that you would recommend? Could I use a water-based polyurethane coating over the top of it? Thanks!
Shea says
Hello Spencer. Was the clear top coat you use called a “Glaze Coat”? H&C sells a water-based acrylic coating (not epoxy) that they call a glaze coat. It really isn’t suitable for a garage floor coating – at least not a durable one. Unfortunately, the only product you can apply over is more water-based acrylic. The best thing you could do is sand off the clear coat down to the color coat and then apply a true 2-part epoxy clear or similar coating.
Jen says
Dear Shea,
After hours of reading your articles, here is my plan:
step 1. 2 gal. Tile Red Semi-Gloss Professional Floor Coating Kit (2-Pack), and add extra bag of color chips. One coat
step2. Top coat, POLYURETHANE, but I can’t find one with my search, can you point me to the right product and where I can make a purchase?
Thanks
Jen
√
Shea says
Hello Jen. Most polyurethanes for epoxy coatings are available from concrete coating vendors and not home improvement centers or brick and mortar stores. Legacy Industrial is an example of a vendor that sells it. If you are not in California, we recommend the HD356. Otherwise, you can use the HD322.
Amit Shrivastava says
hi Shea ,
I am done with 2 coat of Rust Ole-um Professional as of yesterday and result so far looking very good. I am planning to apply clear coat tomorrow and just wondering if there anything I shall be mindful before applying. I think i will be using broom and blower to get rid of any loosen color flakes and dust and will go for it but just thought of confirming with you
Shea says
Don’t use a gas leaf blower if that is your plan. The particulates from the exhaust can settle on the coating and cause fisheyes. Use an electric blower. As far as putting down the clear coat, the most important thing to pay attention to is where you are at as you go. Most people are surprised to find that it’s hard to see exactly where they left off and sometimes end up with spots they missed. Sometimes having a floor light will help as it will make the clear coat shine where you have applied it.
Randy says
Hi Shea.
I love and really appreciate your website, I have read a lot of it and find it very helpful without trying to push any particular brand of product.
I have a 25 year old 1500 sq.ft shop floor to recoat after retiring this year. The shop was used for light auto repair and manufacturing but will now just be a man cave and vehicle maintenance. The floor had a gray stain applied when new and I have put two coats of “paint” on over the years. I will rent a grinder and grind off the old surface after V grinding cracks and filling them. I am using the Rustolium 6200 product but would like to add a Polyurethane clear coat. I cant find a definitive recommendation for a clear? Does Rustoluim make one?
Shea says
Hi Randy. I’m sure you are aware, but we just want to point out that Rust-Oleum states that two coats of 6200 are required for new or bare concrete. Rust-Oleum has their 3300 System Acrylic Aliphatic Urethane. However, sourcing it may be difficult. In addition, we would recommend contacting Rust-Oleum first to double check compatibility. One product that we know is compatible with it is this polyurethane by Legacy Industrial. It’s a moisture cured polyurethane with outstanding chemical and abrasion resistance.
Louis says
Hi,
I am working on my garage floor and I’ve applied the following products on top of my bare concrete floor:
1. Rust-Ole-um Epoxy Shield (Primer)
2. Full coverage of color flakes
Question: I am trying to looking for a top coat to protect the materials above. I have read many articles saying that “polyurethane” is a better option, rather than the “epoxy top coat”, to achieve the satin (matte) finish. In addition, it will provide better flexibility to the floor and it’s more suitable for higher traffic area. We are also afraid that the epoxy top coat might turn yellow over times… Do you have any recommendations for top coat? Can you please provide some links of purchase?
A top coat that we are looking for:
1. Satin/ matte finish (ideal, but ok with gloss finish)
2. Durable but flexible enough to accommodate high traffic
3. Something that’s compatible with the rust ole-um epoxy shield
Shea says
Hi Louis. Most clear coats for garage floors are glossy. The reason is that glossy coatings are more abrasion resistant (longer wearing) than matte coatings. Polyurethane can be obtained in a satin finish, but most are a water-based product and not as tough as its solvent-based counter part. Legacy Industrial is a concrete coating vendor that sells commercial quality product. Here is a link to their polyurethane page. Their HD356 is an excellent polyurethane. They also have a matte polyurethane that is a low solvent-based product. It performs better than the water-based matte. It’s their HD6200. Keep in mind that polyurethane goes down thin and with a full flaked floor, it will require a minimum of two coats and most likely three if you want a smoother finish. Another option would be a single-part polyurea clear coat. It has similar characteristics to polyurethane, but it goes down almost twice as thick. Two coats will generally get the job done on a full flake floor. You can read about single-part polyurea here, which includes links to three different vendors.
Compatibility is not an issue with the EpoxyShield because you have a full flake floor. Most of the clear coat does not reach the epoxy with a proper full flake application. The flakes are strongly adhered to the epoxy and the clear coats soaks in and around all those flakes and nooks and crannies to adhere to them. This brings up an important question though. EpoxyShield should not be used for full flake floors. It has a dry film thickness of only 2.5 mils on average. This less than half of what is recommended for a full flake floor. Has it been fully scraped and leveled yet? Many times the flakes do not adhere well and will pull up fairly easily exposing the epoxy below.
Luther Snyder says
I bought a house with a primer than floor paint in the garage. The previous owner did a great job. Can I put a top coat over the paint?
My plan was using vct
Tile than clear top coat.
Shea says
Hi Luther. I’m confused. Do you want to apply a clear coat over the paint or do you want to apply VCT over the current paint?
Den says
Hello Shea,
This is a great site with helpful information. I wish I came across your site before I started my project. I have used the Behr premium 1-part epoxy coating on my garage floor and I have also added the decorative flakes. However, I am confused on what sealer to use. Can you recommend any specific product or suggest what I should use.
Thanks
Shea says
Hi Den. 1-part epoxy paints are designed to work alone and not intended to be clear coated. It’s essentially a latex acrylic paint with epoxy resin added for durability. This article explains more. Because they are not a true coating, most clear coats are not compatible. We discuss clear coats and 1-part epoxy further in this article here.
michael g says
Hello, I used epoxyshield with flakes on my basement floor and applied the epoxyshield high gloss clear topcoat. The problem I have is the clear coat has a lots of skips as you konw it requires excellent light to apply properly.
Do you have any suggestions on how to make this look better? Can I fix this by ‘touching’ up the missed spots with Seal-Krete water based epoxy? Or do I need to apply something to the entire floor, such as another coat.
Also, is there a safe way to ‘knock down’ the gloss a bit such as buffing, or better to just let the daily wear do this?
Shea says
Hi Michael. No, it will look worse trying to patch it up with a different product. Plus, coatings do not blend well like paint on a wall does. It typically will show overlap marks where a new coating is laid over a previous one. The best way to fix it is to apply another coat of the same product. EpoxyShield allows up to 72 hours for a recoat. After that, you will first need to rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper before applying another coat. You can’t knock down gloss on a coating. If you try, it will dull and make the surface look hazy or whitish.
Marc S. says
I had a contractor apply Rusto-Oleum EpoxyShield (Gray) to my garage floor (440 sf) with colored chips (white and black). They then applied a Rust-Oleum Clear Concrete and Garage Floor Finish Topcoat (water-based acrylic). The chips are still sticking up a bit and the floor is not smooth. I have purchased Sherwin Williams ArmorSeal Rexthane 1 (2 gallons) with the intent to apply 2-3 thin(ish) coats to try to smooth out the surface. This is a “high-solids, single-component, aliphatic, moisture-cure urethane. Before I do, I just want to be sure I won’t experience any problems with the application of this product on top of the others. Any expert advice would be appreciated.
Shea says
Hi Marc. Unfortunately, you cannot apply the Rexthane. Rexthane is a solvent-based coating and is not compatible with acrylics. It will soften the water-based acrylic clear as it is applied and cause a big mess. If you want to apply it, it will require require sanding off the acrylic coating, applying a new coat of the Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield, and then applying the proper clear coat – Rexthane in your case. As an FYI, color flakes are always going to provide for a somewhat textured surface. You won’t get a glass smooth finish if that is what you are looking for. Rexthane is thicker than a water-based acrylic, but the texture will still be there, though to a little less degree.
Marc S. says
Thank you for the advice, Shea. You’ve saved me from making a big mistake and for that I am grateful.
Shea says
You’re welcome, Marc. It’s one of the reasons we started this website.
Steven Weller says
I have a commercial space with a natural slate floor (foot traffic only) and would like to add a finish that will be both very high-gloss and very durable. The slate is currently unfinished; would a direct application of a polyurea or polyaspartic coating be appropriate? Ideally I need something that will last for years and that will need only minimal upkeep (sweeping and mopping) and that will look more or less like the polished floor wax treatments common in the 1930s, 40s, etc.
If the polys aren’t the right solution, can you recommend something more suitable?
Shea says
Hi Steven. There are many potential issues to consider before applying a coating to slate tiles. Commercial quality coatings such as polyurea and polyaspartic (or any concrete coating) are not intended for slate tile and will not be warrantied by the manufacturer. Though slate is considered a porous tile, it’s not porous like concrete. Have the tiles ever been previously sealed? How porous are they? Tiles can’t be prepped for coatings like a concrete surface. If you place a few drops of water on a tile, does it immediately turn a darker color and absorb the water droplets fairly quick? If so, are you confident that every single tile will will react this way? If there are tiles that don’t react in this way, then such a topical coating should not be considered. They are too thick and viscous to penetrate properly.
Polyaspartic would not work at all since it cures too fast and would not have a chance to be absorbed to form a bond. A solvent-based polyurea (will stink up indoor buildings for days) would do a better job of penetrating the surface and it will also have more time to penetrate since it does not cure as quick. If you feel confident that all the tiles will absorb liquid, then you could test the polyurea first in an inconspicuous area.
Acrylic coating are sometimes used on slate because they are much thinner and less viscous so they penetrate better. However, they don’t go down nearly as thick and will not last years on their own without repeated application.
Chris Oliver says
Shea,
I really appreciate your website and the willingness to respond to questions. I had a garage floor company come in and install some type of garage floor coating with 100% flake coverage. I’m not sure they ever even applied a top coat. When you rub your hand across the top of the flakes you feel each one and it basically feels like sandpaper. It traps dust and it just looks incomplete. Without looking at your site first, this past weekend I bought the HC Shield Crete epoxy clear coat with the 2 part system. After one coat it helped some, but the top coat still is not level with the flakes and you feel each flake when rubbbing your hand across. After reading your responses, it seems like a polyurethane top coat is what I should do now. What specific product would you recommend and will it stick to the flakes/HC epoxy? Thanks
Shea says
Hi Chris. You can’t apply a full flake floor without a clear coat. The flakes would be coming loose in places and the floor would have a dull, matte look. More than likely they applied a single clear coat of polyurethane. Polyurethane goes on thin and would result in the rough texture. The company may not have scraped the flakes well enough either. Typically, a minimum of two coats is required, preferably three when using polyurethane on full color flakes.
FYI, a full color flake floor is never going to have a smooth finish unless a couple coats of 100% solid epoxy or polyurea are applied before a final clear coat. Unfortunately, the epoxy you applied is not U.V. stable and may amber (turn yellow tint) if exposed to sunlight. You can apply other coatings over it, however, it’s important that you degloss and rough up the surface first before you do. You didn’t mention doing that before applying the epoxy, so hopefully you will not have problems with it peeling in the future. A floor maintainer with a green scrub run dry across the surface will be enough for most applications. Wipe it down with denatured alcohol and then apply your clear coat of choice.
Chris Oliver says
Thanks for the quick response. So I’ll do the floor maintainer with green scrub and then the denatured alcohol. What specific product would you then recommend to get the smooth finish and then clear coat? I don’t like the idea of it turning yellow, it does get direct light in some areas.
Shea says
Hopefully you won’t have an issue with the epoxy you applied, but it still may yellow. We would recommend applying a couple coats of a single-part polyurea at a coverage rate of approximately 200 square feet per gallon. One coat will be just over twice as thick as polyurethane. This is an example of such a product.
Dane says
I just finished a coat of Rocksolid Dark Gray High Gloss in my 1-car garage. I noticed that there are tiny cracks visible in the finish coat. Would it be possible to put a clear coat over the top to fill in these miniscule cracks as well as to cover the paint chips that are above the current coat?
Is there a clear/top coat that would suit that product well?
Shea says
Hello Dane. RockSolid is available in clear as well. You have up to 7 days to apply another coat or you will have to prep the surface via sanding. The clear coat does a good job of locking in and protecting the color flakes and color coat. However, it’s not going to hide the small cracks or fill them in very well. Cracks need to be properly repaired and filled first before applying a coating.
Paolo Gubat says
How do you sand the floor with flaked epoxy? Wouldn’t that affect the appearance of the floor (scratches)? Bubbles developed in some areas of the epoxy floor is it okay to go ahead with rustoleum clear coat?
Shea says
Hi Paolo. Yes, the goal is to scratch up and degloss the surface. This is what allows the new coat to adhere properly. When you are outside the recoat window, the opportunity for a subsequent coating to bond chemically has passed. If don’t do this prep, the additional coating will peel. No worries though, as soon as the clear goes on, all the gloss and scratches disappear.
Isaac Stolar says
Hi, we are going to use one RockSolid on our 1.5 car garage. It says for 2.5 car. I’m assuming it will be plenty?
Also, after reading this article, it sounds like adding a couple coats of a polyurethane clear top coat would be best. Is there a brand or one that would go well with this? Or am I better off with Rust Oleum clear top coat?
Thank you in advance!
Shea says
Hi Isaac. Yes, that should be plenty in most cases. There will be two separate batches to mix from that kit. The first batch will not go far enough. We suggest using one batch for one half of the garage and the other batch for the second half. Just make sure to keep a wet edge between batches. This should allow to be applied thick enough that you will not incur some of the color issues people have from the coating being too thin.
If you stay with the RockSolid clear coat, then any warranty issues that may need to be resolved (hopefully not) will not be a problem. However, the moment you use a different product on it, neither manufacture will warranty their coating since it was used in conjunction with a different manufacturer. If you want to use a polyurethane, we would suggest something like this here. Keep in mind that polyurethane is solvent-based and will have a stink while it is being applied, whereas RockSolid does not.
Brad says
Hello, What is best to use on natural concrete for a clear coat. Want the natural look on a 5 month old slab that had sealer applied on 2nd month. Floor will be for a workshop garage and an area we will use as an apartment floor as well. Any recommendations on anti-slip in apartment or leave it glossy?
Shea says
Hi Brad. The issue you are going to have is the sealer. What was applied? Concrete that has been treated with a sealer will not accept most coatings unless it is first removed via grinding. Concrete surfaces need to be properly prepped via etching or grinding before applying a coating and sealers effectively block the etching process.
Colin Hoey says
Shea,
Thank you for everything that you do for everyone here and our projects, your knowledge helps tremendously, so thank you.
I have read through everything but still had a question that wasn’t touched on very much.
I just coated my garage floor yesterday with Rust Oleum 2 part epoxy kit. I know I should have used a different kit, but the price was right. I want to add a clear/top coat to the floor. I know that you have said 100’s of times to use the same
Manufacturer for both the epoxy and top coat. My problem here is that I’ve heard many poor reviews and would rather seek alternatives to Rust Oleums clear top coat. It’s not as durable as others and obviously it yellows because it’s epoxy. What are your thoughts about a polyurethane clear coat and what would you recommend I use? Thank you again for your time.
Colin
Shea says
Hi Colin and thanks for the kudos. Yes, you can apply a polyurethane or even a polyurea clear top coat in order to protect the color coat and get much better wear and chemical protection than the Rust-Oleum epoxy. Because you are out of the 24 hour recoat window, it will require that you rough up and degloss the surface with 120 grit sandpaper first in order to achieve a mechanical bond. You will lose a few color flakes in the process (if applied), but not too many if they are adhered well. Afterwards, sweep / vac the surface and then wipe it down with denatured alcohol applied liberally to a microfiber mop pad before applying the clear coat.
You wont’ find polyurethane for concrete coatings at a home improvement center. Sherwin-Williams carries a polyurethane called Rexthane. It’s more durable than the epoxy you used, but it does not compare to the commercial quality polyurethane you can get from concrete coating vendors online. Here is an example of a product we would recommend if you are not located in California. We just checked and they are out of stock, so you may want to give them a call. If you need something soon, their Nohr-S clear polyurea be an excellent choice as well.
Luke says
Hey one factor I do not see mentioned here is heat.
Ployurea/Polyaspartic VS Polyurethane
Is there a difference in their durability with contact to higher temps.
Like your vehicle pulling into the garage with hot tires.
Shea says
Hi Luke. All those that you mention are going to do fine with hot tires in terms of a clear coat. The biggest issue with hot tires is the quality of the base color coat that is adhered to the concrete. That is where the coating lifts. Polyurea/polyaspartics are premium coatings that adhere well and do not experience hot tire pick up when applied to properly prepared concrete. Polyurethane is always applied to the color coat and does not adhere well to concrete. The biggest problem with hot tire pick up is with lesser quality epoxy coatings.
Chris says
Hi there about four to eight weeks ago , I decided to paint my big beautiful garage here in the UK, there’s pealing paint which has only been my Landcover Evoque sport in it and within a matter of weeks we started to get flaking mainly around the wheel areas so I thought what about putting a clear hardwearing on top, what do you think “HELP ME PLEASE “
Shea says
Hi Chris. If you applied paint and not 2-part resinous coating, then applying a clear coat will not help. Paint will incur hot tire pickup regardless. In addition, paint is not intended or designed for a clear coat. This article here explains more.
Mike says
Hello. First off, thank you for the thorough breakdown! I recently put down the Rust-oleum EpoxyShield in my garage. I know this is similar to other peoples’ questions, but I want to put down a clear seal to protect the flooring. I’ve read mixed reviews on the Rust-oleum EpoxyShield Clear Finish and also seen YouTube videos of people using Seal Krete Clear-Seal (I know this isn’t recommended). Is there a particular clear seal you’d recommend? After reading your article, I’m thinking if I don’t go with the Rust-oleum, maybe I’ll use a water-based polyurethane. If I go with polyurethane, would I be able to mix an anti-skid additive into it?
Thank you again and apologies for the repetitive question.
Shea says
Hello Mike. The general rule of clear coats is that they should be just as durable if not more so than the color coat. Seal Krete Clear-Seal is an inferior acrylic clear coat and should not be used in a garage environment. In order to keep warranties intact, you need to stay with the same manufacturer. This is why we recommend Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield clear coat. The recoat window for EpoxyShield products is 72 hours. If you use anything else it’s only 24 hours. If you are outside of these recoat windows it will require deglossing the surface by roughing it up with 120 grit sandpaper. Do not use a water-based polyurethane from your local home improvement center that is for wood floors and furniture. They are not compatible with epoxy, nor do they state to use on garage floors. You can add anti-slip media into the final coat of most coatings. This new 100% solids EpoxyShield clear coat performs better than the older solvent-based clear.
RENE ALONZO says
Question
I am doing rock solid grey with flakes by rust oleum, can I put on the 2-part fast curing polyurea and polyaspartic on this? And what brand or where can I buy it?
Or even the new single part you mentioned.
I work on cars with chemicals dripping i need something real durable
Shea says
Hello Rene. If you want something durable, then we recommend spending a little bit more money and just install a complete single-part polyurea coating system instead of just using the clear coat. RockSolid has not been tested to be chemically compatible with other coatings when it comes to applying something else over it within the recoat window in order to achieve a chemical bond. It would require that you wait approximately 72 hours after the color coat and flakes are applied. You would then rough up the surface with 120 grit sandpaper to degloss the surface enough for a different clear coat (other than RockSolid) to achieve a mechanical bond.
I suggest you read our article here about single-part polyurea. We list the different vendors we recommend and include links for pricing. You can choose to purchase just a clear coat or you can purchase a complete system for an extremely durable coating.
Unless you have much experience applying coatings, we do not recommend the fast cure polyurea and polyaspartic coatings for DIY application. They set up too fast (within 15 minutes) for DIYer’s to get down quick enough in a proper manner.
Jim Pianowski says
Fantastic web site. Thanks for your work. A quick question. From everything I read, I think I would like to proceed with my sealed floor as per the following and with your blessing…. a high quality epoxy as a base coat…broadcast the flakes of choice, a UV Stabilized PolyAspartic then a top coat of UV Stabilized Polyurethane with an aggregate , 40 mesh, stirred in and applied. My logic is the Polyurethane will be a thinner coat and allow the aggregate to be closer to the surface and create the anti slip top coat I desired and still be a glossy finish.
My question is…can I put Polyurethane over Polyaspartic? Your comments please….
Shea says
Hello Jim and thanks for the kudos. I think you are overthinking this. A 40 mesh fine grit anti-slip additive will work well in a polyaspartic or polyurea top coat. It’s a fairly standard application that the pros incorporate into their floors. If you were applying it in a 100% solids epoxy, then you would have issues of it sinking below the surface before the epoxy cured enough. And yes, you can apply polyurethane over polyaspartic, but it is not recommended. Most polyaspartic coatings perform slightly better than polyurethane.