There is an abundance of confusion today among homeowners looking to apply paint or a coating to their garage floor. Should it be epoxy paint or an epoxy coating? Is there a difference? If so, which is best? It’s not always easy to tell since many of the DIY garage floor kits available today use these terms interchangeably.
As a result, it is very important to learn the distinction between paint, epoxy paint, and epoxy coatings. Doing so will eliminate confusion and enable you to make an informed decision. This is vital if you want to obtain the expected looks and performance for your garage floor.
We are the first to acknowledge that the marketing for DIY paint and epoxy can be misleading. If you don’t know EXACTLY what type of product you are purchasing, then you may end up being one of the unhappy consumers with ruined expectations for epoxy flooring.
What is Epoxy Paint?
The term “epoxy paint” came about years ago when paint and coating manufacturers took notice of the terminology that the DIY public was using when searching for epoxy garage floor coatings. They were intermixing “paint” with “coating” without knowing the difference.
As a result, marketing decisions were made and many well-known DIY epoxy floor coating companies decided to brand their products as “epoxy paint” since that is what consumers seemed to be calling it.
Unfortunately, it has only made things more confusing for the consumer. Chances are that when you see something advertised as epoxy paint for your garage, it could be 1-part epoxy paint or it could be an epoxy coating.
This has led to many people buying paint for their garage floor when what they thought they were purchasing was an epoxy coating. This is why it’s so important to learn what epoxy paint and epoxy coatings are.
Commercial quality DIY epoxy kits available from concrete coating vendors online are called coatings. As a result, there is no confusion.
Epoxy Coatings are not Paint
The first misnomer that we want to address is that an epoxy coating is not paint. The two are not chemically compatible and should not be used together whenever possible.
Paint consists of 4 basic ingredients. The first three are pigments, binders, and additives. The fourth is a carrier agent that these ingredients are suspended in. This will be primarily water or solvents.
Once applied, the pigments, binders, and some additives are deposited onto the concrete as the carrier agent evaporates out during the drying process.
The binders are what provide performance, support, and adhesion for the pigments. They bind or hold them together in a thin film on the concrete surface. Most garage floor paints are water-based and use latex acrylic polymers to bind the pigments together.
Typical additives include thickening agents and surfactants. They provide for easier application and prevent pigments from separating.
The amount of pigment, binders, and additives that are left on the surface after drying is referred to as the solids content. It is measured by weight and volume.
Volume is what determines how thick the paint will be and how much material is left on the concrete after evaporation when applied at the recommended coverage rate. Most concrete paint has a solids content of 29-33%. The rest is water and some solvents.
This means that once applied, the wet film thickness (WFT) of the paint shrinks approximately 67-71% as the water evaporates out. What you are left with is a very thin dry film thickness (DFT) of approximately 1.0 mils. A sheet of paper is roughly 3 mils thick for reference.
Garage floor paint is the least expensive option and the poorest performing. Most standard concrete paints for porches, patios, and garages use a latex acrylic binder. Though latex may work well for walls, it’s not a good match for garage traffic.
Paint does not seal the concrete. It will peel up from hot car tires. Solvents, brake fluid, gas, and other harsh chemicals will discolor and many times soften the paint. This can cause it to smear or delaminate when cleaning up.
In addition, it is only available in a satin finish and is not intended for clear coats. We get many questions about clear coats for paint which we discuss here.
The primary benefits of concrete paint are that it’s cheap and fairly easy to touch up. In essence, paint is a short-lived and budget-minded option.
What is 1-Part Epoxy Paint?
1-Part epoxy garage floor paint uses modified latex acrylic binders as well. However, it also includes a small amount of epoxy ester resin as an additive. The epoxy resin helps the acrylic binders to create a more durable paint film with better adhesion properties. However, it is not an epoxy coating.
The amount of epoxy resin is not included in the technical data sheets. This is because listing the exact additives is not required. However, it is not much since the average solids content is only 1-4% greater than standard concrete paint. As a result, the DFT is only slightly thicker at 1 – 1.5 mils.
Like standard latex acrylic garage floor paint, 1-Part epoxy paint is not a sealer, it is only available in a satin finish, and is not intended to be clear coated. Some may be marketed as paint and primer in one.
And no matter how big or bold the print on the can states that it is “hot tire resistant”, it WILL peel up from hot tires at some point. Just not as fast as standard concrete paint.
It will resist some automotive chemicals, salt, and grease better than standard concrete paint, but the increase in resistance is not substantial.
It does wear a little longer, particularly under foot traffic. If vehicle traffic will not be introduced, then 1-Part epoxy paint can be a good budget option for a garage or workshop that won’t see heavy use or exposure to strong chemicals.
See our Recommended Picks for 1-Part Epoxy Paint
If paint is the only option in the budget, then spending a few dollars more per gallon for 1-Part epoxy paint over standard concrete paint is worth the investment.
What Makes an Epoxy Coating Different than 1-Part Epoxy Paint?
An epoxy coating is a two-component thermosetting polymer. It consists of one part epoxy resin and one part polyamine hardener. The hardener acts as a catalyst. When the two parts are mixed before application, a chemical reaction is started that results in an exothermic or heat-generating process.
Once the two parts are mixed, you are limited by time and temperature as to how long you have to apply it. This is referred to as the pot life.
The resin component is tinted to give the epoxy color. The hardener component is always clear. If the resin component is not tinted, then it is considered a clear epoxy.
Unlike paint that binds into a thin film while it dries, epoxy chemically cures. The chemical reaction creates a tight cross-linking of the two components. This forms an extremely hard and durable coated surface that seals the concrete and can be highly stain and chemical resistant.
In addition, it achieves a much stronger bond than paint when applied to a properly prepared concrete surface. Epoxy requires etching the concrete at the minimum (as do most coatings) before application.
Furthermore, subsequent coats that are applied during the recoat window will achieve an extremely strong chemical bond with each other. Paint cannot do this.
How thick and how well an epoxy coating performs is determined by the quality of the epoxy resin, formula, and most importantly, the solids content. Generally, the higher the solids content, the better performing epoxy will be.
Epoxy coatings for concrete and garage floors can have a solids content that ranges from 42% – 100%. The solids content will also determine the length of the pot life and ease of application.
Low solids epoxy can have a pot life of up to two hours. It is usually applied with a roller out of a paint tray. Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield is an example.
High solids epoxy can have a pot life as short as 30 minutes and needs to be poured out onto the concrete in ribbons immediately after mixing. It is then spread around by a squeegee or roller and then back rolled to finish. If left in the bucket, it will get hot and be unusable within minutes.
The less expensive DIY epoxy paint kits that you can buy at your local home improvement center or hardware store are water-based and have a semi-gloss finish. Colors are typically limited to Tan/Beige and Gray. They have an average solids content by volume of 42-53%.
When applied at the recommended coverage rate, they will achieve a dry film thickness of 2.5 – 3.5 mils. This type of epoxy is easier to apply as well as cheaper to buy. It goes on the floor almost as easily as paint does.
Easy application is one of the primary marketing points that makes these kits so popular to purchase. They can be applied to your garage floor more easily compared to premium high solids epoxy.
Read: Learn What to Expect with Inexpensive DIY Epoxy Kits
Commercial quality epoxy kits can have a solids content ranging from 80-100% and typically have a very glossy finish. In addition, they are available in a large range of colors other than tan and gray.
The dry film thickness for commercial quality, high solids epoxy can range from 8 – 12 mils when applied with a roller. 100% solids epoxy can be applied even thicker in one application.
High solids epoxy is more durable, it hides imperfections in the concrete better, it does not experience hot tire pickup, and lasts years longer. In addition, it is more stain and chemical resistant than lower solids epoxy.
Read: Learn the Basics of How to Compare Epoxy Coatings
The pot life for high solids epoxy can range from 30 – 50 minutes depending on the temperature and solids content. It can be a little more difficult to work with during application because of the thicker viscosity and limited time to apply it.
Though the pot life is limited, it can still be easily applied in the required amount of time as long as you plan your application steps out ahead of time. Our article on garage floor coating application explains this in detail.
Final Thoughts
Whenever in doubt about what you are purchasing, always review the technical data sheets. These will detail exactly what type of product you are purchasing. In addition, they provide very important information regarding application and durability.
So don’t fall for the epoxy marketing name game when deciding on what you want to apply to your garage floor. As you can see, epoxy paint and epoxy coating may or may not mean the same thing. Do your research first, as this will help you to understand the type of epoxy you are purchasing and what kind of results to expect.
Gavin John says
Great article, gives me some great ideas for my 3 car bare garage.
Steve C says
Finally! Now I think I understand what the difference is when looking at all these epoxy floor products. It has always been so confusing that I had decided not to do anything at all. I feel now that I can make a good choice of what I want to do.
Shea says
Great, we’re glad that it helped Steve.
Manny says
Shea:
What type of resin is usually added to the 1-part paints and how much? Does it really make a difference over regular latex paint?
Thanks
Shea says
Hi Manny. What they add is their own proprietary blend of “epoxy resin technology” as some manufacturers like to state. They really don’t divulge the amount though. It is enough however to make a difference over standard latex acrylic paint in terms of how well if performs in a garage environment. It’s not a substitute and will not perform as wel however to an actual 2-Part epoxy coating.
Manny says
Thanks!
Robert Hecht says
Thank you for the info. How hard is it for an inexperienced person to appy or should it only be applied by an experienced painter? Also typically how long would it take to apply to an average three car garage and how long befor vehicle could return?
RDH
Shea says
Hello Robert. It depends on whether you are applying paint or epoxy. You didn’t really state which. Paint is not that hard to apply to concrete. It’s similar to painting a wall. Cleaning the concrete and applying the paint would take approximately two days. Epoxy on the other hand does require more work. It’s not hard, but you need to be thorough and pay attention to all the details. If you are fairly handy with other projects then you can do epoxy. The concrete prep work is the most labor intensive part. Figure 3 to 4 days for a good epoxy system for installation and another 3 days before you can park your car on it. Keep in mind that much of the time for this kind of project is just waiting for product to cure.
Al says
What would you recommend for a high traffic wood threshold at an entry door?
Regular paint looks bad withing months and wears off pretty quickly.
Shea says
Hello Al. The problem with using epoxy outdoors is that it will amber (turn yellow) after a while since it is not U.V. stable. 1-Part epoxy paint is water based latex and should not yellow like epoxy, but it’s not as durable. It is available in more colors however than garage floor epoxy.
Gus says
Hi great artical been trying to find a simple explanation for ages. One question though. With an epoxy cover as aposed to epoxy paint, which I now know is more a latex product rather than epoxy. I take it the epoxy cover is a two part, epoxy and hardner, so what is the diff between this epoxy and the epoxy used one boats?
Thanks again for the great easy to understand and follow information.
Shea says
They are very similar actually. Viscosity and other small changes are made to epoxy used for concrete coatings for adhesion and smooth application.
pragathi says
it helps me to understand what is epoxy paint , thank you
John Kern says
Very informative, thank you!
Bhupen says
Very useful information, Shea. Excellent article.
I get it that Epoxy Coating is more durable than 1-part Epoxy paint. Is there a way to quantify it (for example, two time more durable) ?
Also I understand that epoxy coating is more expensive than the paint. So from value perspective, which one offers more value to a residential garage owner?
Thank you for the response.
Shea says
Hello Bhupen. As an example, RockSolid claims that their garage floor coating is 20X more durable than epoxy. After a little bit of digging, we found that this particular claim was a comparison to epoxy paint. A bit misleading, but it is an example of the durability of a resinous coating over 1-Part epoxy paint. The technical data sheets of coatings will quantify the durability of coatings and are good for comparison. 1-Part epoxy paint manufacturers do not supply most of the data that determines durability. The reason for this is that many of the tests performed on epoxy and other coatings is not performed on 1-Part epoxy paint. Even if it is, they do not reveal the numbers because the comparisons are not even close. A quality epoxy coating will always proved a much better value over time than epoxy paint.
Debbie H. says
Hi, Would you be able to tell me what can be used for a concrete basement floor? There may be some moisture coming up from the floor when it is very humid out. Can this be done with some kind of epoxy or paint? Thanks!
Shea says
Hello Debbie. You need to run a moisture test for a couple days when it’s humid out. It’s possible your concrete is sweating and not getting moisture from below. Sweating is caused when warm moist air comes in contact with cool concrete. If the concrete under the plastic remains dry while the rest gets damp, then it’s sweating. However, if you get moisture under the plastic, then you have a bigger issue. Coatings or paint cannot be applied to concrete with a moisture issue. It will cause the coating or paint to peel up. It can be applied to concrete that sweats however.
Roger says
PLEASE HELP ……
My deck needs repainting & I am VERY confused as to what to use to re coat it as the former owner painted it with Benjamin Moore floor & patio 122-4B. To my understanding this is a epoxy modified Acrelic which I am told going over this with a regular latex wont work as it will just peel. This deck is totally open (not covered) to the weather elements of Wisconsin. Also about 40% of deck is bare wood rest still has this Benjamin Moore product on it even after hitting it with the pressure washer. Also 1 of the paint reps told me to use primer on just the bare spots…..well how do I do that without getting primer on at least some of the covered surface?
Please Help!!
Shea says
Hello Roger. You can apply latex acrylic or 1-Part epoxy latex acrylic on top of each other (vice versa) as long as the surface is prepped by sanding with 100 grit sandpaper. It’s a good idea to treat the bare wood with a primer first. Do that then sand the rest of the paint that has remained and you will be good to go. If ever you are in doubt, always contact the manufacturer of the product you want to use. They all have toll free numbers to get such information. Do not rely on the info you get at home improvement centers.
Mark says
I would recommend using Benjamin Moore Fresh Start Alkyd wood primer #094 on any bare wood on exteriors porch floors after properly washing the surface and lightly sanding. Don’t forget to use a tack cloth to remove sanding dust or use a rag with paint thinner on it but be sure to put rags in water before throwing in trash to prevent combustion. Allow surface to dry throughly before priming. Alkyd primers work better on bare wood because it penetrates and bonds to wood fibers better than any waterbase primer.
Benjamin Moore Corotech Amine Epoxy #V440 can be applied to walls as long as they are primer with an acrylic primer such as Insl-x Aqua Lock #AQ-0400. I am a coatings specialist that works in a Benjamin Moore retail store.
Jeff Bales says
For a research lab, would you recommend a product please
Shea says
Hello Jeff. A high solids epoxy base coat with a high performance polyurethane or polyurea top coat is generally preferred. The top coat is sometimes determined by the type of chemicals that may be used in a lab. We recommend contacting ArmorPoxy and talk with them about the best system to use. They supply product for a wide variety of commercial work and can assist you with your needs.
simon abboud says
hello
is it possible to use epoxy on iron?
it must be used as a regular iron paint?
thanks
Shea says
It depends on the epoxy Simon. You need to check the data sheets carefully or contact the manufacturer to verify. Sherwin Williams makes epoxy that will bond to steel for example, but DiY kits such as Rust-Oleum, Quikrete, Valspar, RockSolid, and etc do not.
Jerry says
HI. My builder/flooring sub just coated my basement floor with WAKOL PU-280, a moisture barrier. I believe that is a good thing for the two rooms that get a laminate flooring and a commercial glue down carpet, but it is not a very attractive finish for my wife’s pottery studio which is being left bare (no carpet or flooring to cover floor). The studio will only have light foot traffic and some carts being rolled around with finished/unfinished pottery on them, etc. Floor was poured 12/2015. We’ve had a lot of rain, but have no moisture coming thru the floor (did test in 4 rooms for 4- 5 days, with underside of foil bone dry – this was prior to PU-280 being applied). Is there a product I can apply (paint on) to improve the look of the floor, or am I out of luck because the concrete pores are now closed? Thanks for your help. Jerry
Shea says
Hello Jerry. We reviewed the data sheets for Wakol PU-280 and it only mentions approved adhesives that can be applied to it. We are assuming this is because it’s designed as a moisture barrier underlayment. We did notice that it is polyurethane based, however. We suggest contacting the manufacturer and ask if acrylic paint is compatible and can be applied over the moisture barrier and if so, what concrete prep is needed if any. If it is approved, then we would recommend a 1-Part epoxy paint. It is very easy to apply and available in more colors than just tan and gray. It should hold up quite well for just foot traffic and carts.
Luke smith says
Hi I wish to epoxy a garage floor. I’ve been looking into it and struggling, I want to try a epoxy and do a two colour marble or swirl or whatever it’s called. A few questions I’d like to clarify please,
Epoxy clear and epoxy resin are the same thing?
Can I add my own tint or metallic particle?
Also one more do I need a primer for a 100% epoxy or can I clean and apply to straight broom finished concrete?
Great write up mate was a pleasure to read and cleared up a lot. Thanks
Shea says
Hello Luke. 2-Part epoxy is a resin, so it’s the same thing. Regardless of the finish to the concrete, you need to prep first via acid etching or grinding in order to open up the pores in the concrete for the epoxy to penetrate. In your case you will need to grind in order to knock down the broom finish as it is not good for epoxy. When doing metallics with 100% solids epoxy, you will need to put down a dark epoxy primer first. No, you can’t add your own tint or metallic pigments. Each type is made specifically for the epoxy it is introduced to in order to create the reaction. Each manufacturer has their own selection. Keep in mind as well that no two metallic floors look the same. They are all dependent on the artistic flair of the person installing it and the method used to create the desired effect (spraying or dripping solvents, air blowing, swirling with a roller, and etc.).
Paula says
I had a mandala painted for my living room floor. It is latex paint on a piece of lauan board.
Can I use epoxy to cover over the latex paint to protect this floor piece from damaging the latex paint mandala?
Shea says
How is the board working in relation to the floor Paula? Is it portable or affixed into the floor?
Tony says
Excellent article!
I’m building an auto workshop/garage with a large porch on the front of it and would like to lay down a durable finish like the two part epoxy but now I’m concerned about the porch yellowing since it will be exposed to the sun during various parts of the day. What’s the best option for getting it all to match?
Thanks much!
Shea says
Hello Tony. Your best bet is to use a 1-Part epoxy. Since it’s basically a latex paint, it will not yellow in the sun. Plus, it should be fairly durable since you will not be driving or parking vehicles on your porch. You will not be able to apply a clear over it however. Some companies offer a 1-Part epoxy in a matching color.
Eric Streich says
Hi Tony, great article, thanks. I have built a 40′ X60′ shop/barn that could be used for wedding receptions. The guys who did the slab, didn’t do a real good job. It has a lot of cracks and where the two pours come together, there is a height difference that will have to be ground down. After, I don’t think there will be a lot of vehicle traffic on it but maybe some. Should I fill the wider cracks with an epoxy and will the epoxy coat fill the smaller cracks? About how many gallons will I need and how much time?
Shea says
Hello Eric. How much product you need really depends on the product being used. Would it be a high solids or low solids epoxy? Primer? Top coat? If you can stick a business card in the crack, then it needs to be repaired or will telegraph through the coating. Anything smaller and the coating will generally cover it up.
hens says
Great article! We are on the construction stage of a bakery. As part of the requirements for food establishments we are planning to apply epoxy coating on the kitchen area both for the floors and the walls. Is the epoxy coating for the floor can be used for the wall more specifically a drywall? or vice versa.
Shea says
Hello Hens. It sounds like you need a cove base for the epoxy flooring. Most commercial kitchens, bakeries, and etc. require a cove base that runs from 4″-8″ up the wall depending on regulations. The actual cove base is similar in properties, but different than the actual flooring. It’s thicker and designed to stick to tile and drywall. The cove base is installed first and the the epoxy flooring second. Depending on the manufacturer, the cove base will match the floor or you will run the epoxy floor material up the cove to form a seamless look. This video is a good example of how to construct and apply an epoxy cove base.
hens says
Thank you Shea. I was wondering if a rubber cove base will work as well when installed on top of an epoxy floor?
Shea says
You would need to check regulations Hens. The epoxy cove base creates a seal to keep liquids contained to the floor. A rubber cove base does not do that.
June Groen says
Hi, We have a cabin with a concrete floor. It freezes in the winter and is warm in the summer. Which covering would work best and last longer paint or epoxy?
Shea says
Epoxy is always going to last longer than paint June. It’s a much more durable coating.
Eric Sr says
Hi. Great article. I am moving into a newly constructed home. I am thinking of getting an epoxy paint for the garage. The garage has not been used, thus far. I will park the car in there after a decision is made for the epoxy. Construction manager advised of epoxy due to the salt for winter time. Don’t want the salt eating away the cement garage floor. What do you suggest using epoxy paint or epoxy coat?
Shea says
You do not want to use a 1-Part epoxy paint for such conditions Eric. It wouldn’t last a winter. A proper epoxy coating system is what you need. It will seal the concrete and stand up to salt and deicing chemicals without issue. Polyurea polyaspartic coating systems are popular as well if you are going to have it professionally done.
Jason s says
Hi
We just built a house and we are considering covering the basement floor. Should i use a two part epoxy (like the rustoleum kits) or a one part epoxy. We are covering bacause sometimes our dogs has accidents down there and also to help keep it a little cleaner. would the 1 part hold up to the dog and also the kids playing down there until we can finish
thanks for the article.
Shea says
Hello Jason. The 2-part epoxy coating is going to perform much better than the 1-part epoxy paint. Particularly with kids playing and animal accidents. Just make sure to do a moisture test before application since a basement floor is below grade.
Larry Pedersen says
Any idea on which kind of material to put in a barn. We are going to build a barn in a week, will have a concrete slab down the middle.
Shea says
Hello Larry. Between paint and epoxy in a barn, you would definitely want a high quality epoxy coating. Paint would not hold up long at all. Keep in mind that for most coatings you need to wait a minimum of 30 days for the concrete to cure before application.
Michael says
Hi!
Thank you for this great resource! We live in a 100 year old house. I would like to epoxy our basement floor, however I have some concerns whether it will work on a concrete floor that has degenerated with numerous dips/cracks/chips all throughout. We also get water coming in through our old limestone walls in the spring with heavy rains leaving a lot of moisture on the floor. Should I just paint the floor at this point or try to epoxy? P.S. there is a tiny bit of paint on the floor from using the paint gun on the walls. Would epoxy go right over the dusted areas of paint?
Shea says
Hello Michael. All that moisture from the surrounding walls is not helpful. Have you done a moisture test for the slab when you get the rains? Chances are the slab would have moisture as well which would cause either epoxy or paint to peel up. That is why a moisture test needs to be conducted first to try and determine what type of flooring would work best. You might be better off with an interlocking tile floor instead.
Murray Osborne says
Hi Shea
I’m re doing a squash court front wall. It has been painted with white enamel paint.
1.Do I need to remove all the paint first?
2. do I use an epoxy coating or epoxy paint? Bare in mind that it takes a lot of pounding from a squash ball.
3. Can you use epxy coating to do patch work? eg. where the old paint and bits of plaster has come off or do I have to re do the hole wall?
Kind Regards
Murray
Shea says
Hello Murray. Epoxy floor coatings are not designed for exterior walls or outside. They will amber (turn yellow) in the sun. However, 1-part epoxy paint can be used for an exterior paint since it is latex based. For repairs to your wall, we suggest stopping by your local home improvement center and talk to the about plaster repair. There are some good products available for that depending on use. Epoxy cannot be used on plaster.