There is an abundance of confusion today among homeowners looking to apply paint or a coating to their garage floor. Should it be epoxy paint or an epoxy coating? Is there a difference? If so, which is best? It’s not always easy to tell since many of the DIY garage floor kits available today use these terms interchangeably.
As a result, it is very important to learn the distinction between paint, epoxy paint, and epoxy coatings. Doing so will eliminate confusion and enable you to make an informed decision. This is vital if you want to obtain the expected looks and performance for your garage floor.
We are the first to acknowledge that the marketing for DIY paint and epoxy can be misleading. If you don’t know EXACTLY what type of product you are purchasing, then you may end up being one of the unhappy consumers with ruined expectations for epoxy flooring.
What is Epoxy Paint?
The term “epoxy paint” came about years ago when paint and coating manufacturers took notice of the terminology that the DIY public was using when searching for epoxy garage floor coatings. They were intermixing “paint” with “coating” without knowing the difference.
As a result, marketing decisions were made and many well-known DIY epoxy floor coating companies decided to brand their products as “epoxy paint” since that is what consumers seemed to be calling it.
Unfortunately, it has only made things more confusing for the consumer. Chances are that when you see something advertised as epoxy paint for your garage, it could be 1-part epoxy paint or it could be an epoxy coating.
This has led to many people buying paint for their garage floor when what they thought they were purchasing was an epoxy coating. This is why it’s so important to learn what epoxy paint and epoxy coatings are.
Commercial quality DIY epoxy kits available from concrete coating vendors online are called coatings. As a result, there is no confusion.
Epoxy Coatings are not Paint
The first misnomer that we want to address is that an epoxy coating is not paint. The two are not chemically compatible and should not be used together whenever possible.
Paint consists of 4 basic ingredients. The first three are pigments, binders, and additives. The fourth is a carrier agent that these ingredients are suspended in. This will be primarily water or solvents.
Once applied, the pigments, binders, and some additives are deposited onto the concrete as the carrier agent evaporates out during the drying process.
The binders are what provide performance, support, and adhesion for the pigments. They bind or hold them together in a thin film on the concrete surface. Most garage floor paints are water-based and use latex acrylic polymers to bind the pigments together.
Typical additives include thickening agents and surfactants. They provide for easier application and prevent pigments from separating.
The amount of pigment, binders, and additives that are left on the surface after drying is referred to as the solids content. It is measured by weight and volume.
Volume is what determines how thick the paint will be and how much material is left on the concrete after evaporation when applied at the recommended coverage rate. Most concrete paint has a solids content of 29-33%. The rest is water and some solvents.
This means that once applied, the wet film thickness (WFT) of the paint shrinks approximately 67-71% as the water evaporates out. What you are left with is a very thin dry film thickness (DFT) of approximately 1.0 mils. A sheet of paper is roughly 3 mils thick for reference.
Garage floor paint is the least expensive option and the poorest performing. Most standard concrete paints for porches, patios, and garages use a latex acrylic binder. Though latex may work well for walls, it’s not a good match for garage traffic.
Paint does not seal the concrete. It will peel up from hot car tires. Solvents, brake fluid, gas, and other harsh chemicals will discolor and many times soften the paint. This can cause it to smear or delaminate when cleaning up.
In addition, it is only available in a satin finish and is not intended for clear coats. We get many questions about clear coats for paint which we discuss here.
The primary benefits of concrete paint are that it’s cheap and fairly easy to touch up. In essence, paint is a short-lived and budget-minded option.
What is 1-Part Epoxy Paint?
1-Part epoxy garage floor paint uses modified latex acrylic binders as well. However, it also includes a small amount of epoxy ester resin as an additive. The epoxy resin helps the acrylic binders to create a more durable paint film with better adhesion properties. However, it is not an epoxy coating.
The amount of epoxy resin is not included in the technical data sheets. This is because listing the exact additives is not required. However, it is not much since the average solids content is only 1-4% greater than standard concrete paint. As a result, the DFT is only slightly thicker at 1 – 1.5 mils.
Like standard latex acrylic garage floor paint, 1-Part epoxy paint is not a sealer, it is only available in a satin finish, and is not intended to be clear coated. Some may be marketed as paint and primer in one.
And no matter how big or bold the print on the can states that it is “hot tire resistant”, it WILL peel up from hot tires at some point. Just not as fast as standard concrete paint.
It will resist some automotive chemicals, salt, and grease better than standard concrete paint, but the increase in resistance is not substantial.
It does wear a little longer, particularly under foot traffic. If vehicle traffic will not be introduced, then 1-Part epoxy paint can be a good budget option for a garage or workshop that won’t see heavy use or exposure to strong chemicals.
See our Recommended Picks for 1-Part Epoxy Paint
If paint is the only option in the budget, then spending a few dollars more per gallon for 1-Part epoxy paint over standard concrete paint is worth the investment.
What Makes an Epoxy Coating Different than 1-Part Epoxy Paint?
An epoxy coating is a two-component thermosetting polymer. It consists of one part epoxy resin and one part polyamine hardener. The hardener acts as a catalyst. When the two parts are mixed before application, a chemical reaction is started that results in an exothermic or heat-generating process.
Once the two parts are mixed, you are limited by time and temperature as to how long you have to apply it. This is referred to as the pot life.
The resin component is tinted to give the epoxy color. The hardener component is always clear. If the resin component is not tinted, then it is considered a clear epoxy.
Unlike paint that binds into a thin film while it dries, epoxy chemically cures. The chemical reaction creates a tight cross-linking of the two components. This forms an extremely hard and durable coated surface that seals the concrete and can be highly stain and chemical resistant.
In addition, it achieves a much stronger bond than paint when applied to a properly prepared concrete surface. Epoxy requires etching the concrete at the minimum (as do most coatings) before application.
Furthermore, subsequent coats that are applied during the recoat window will achieve an extremely strong chemical bond with each other. Paint cannot do this.
How thick and how well an epoxy coating performs is determined by the quality of the epoxy resin, formula, and most importantly, the solids content. Generally, the higher the solids content, the better performing epoxy will be.
Epoxy coatings for concrete and garage floors can have a solids content that ranges from 42% – 100%. The solids content will also determine the length of the pot life and ease of application.
Low solids epoxy can have a pot life of up to two hours. It is usually applied with a roller out of a paint tray. Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield is an example.
High solids epoxy can have a pot life as short as 30 minutes and needs to be poured out onto the concrete in ribbons immediately after mixing. It is then spread around by a squeegee or roller and then back rolled to finish. If left in the bucket, it will get hot and be unusable within minutes.
The less expensive DIY epoxy paint kits that you can buy at your local home improvement center or hardware store are water-based and have a semi-gloss finish. Colors are typically limited to Tan/Beige and Gray. They have an average solids content by volume of 42-53%.
When applied at the recommended coverage rate, they will achieve a dry film thickness of 2.5 – 3.5 mils. This type of epoxy is easier to apply as well as cheaper to buy. It goes on the floor almost as easily as paint does.
Easy application is one of the primary marketing points that makes these kits so popular to purchase. They can be applied to your garage floor more easily compared to premium high solids epoxy.
Read: Learn What to Expect with Inexpensive DIY Epoxy Kits
Commercial quality epoxy kits can have a solids content ranging from 80-100% and typically have a very glossy finish. In addition, they are available in a large range of colors other than tan and gray.
The dry film thickness for commercial quality, high solids epoxy can range from 8 – 12 mils when applied with a roller. 100% solids epoxy can be applied even thicker in one application.
High solids epoxy is more durable, it hides imperfections in the concrete better, it does not experience hot tire pickup, and lasts years longer. In addition, it is more stain and chemical resistant than lower solids epoxy.
Read: Learn the Basics of How to Compare Epoxy Coatings
The pot life for high solids epoxy can range from 30 – 50 minutes depending on the temperature and solids content. It can be a little more difficult to work with during application because of the thicker viscosity and limited time to apply it.
Though the pot life is limited, it can still be easily applied in the required amount of time as long as you plan your application steps out ahead of time. Our article on garage floor coating application explains this in detail.
Final Thoughts
Whenever in doubt about what you are purchasing, always review the technical data sheets. These will detail exactly what type of product you are purchasing. In addition, they provide very important information regarding application and durability.
So don’t fall for the epoxy marketing name game when deciding on what you want to apply to your garage floor. As you can see, epoxy paint and epoxy coating may or may not mean the same thing. Do your research first, as this will help you to understand the type of epoxy you are purchasing and what kind of results to expect.
Ronald Lucich says
I originally coated my garage floor with a 2 part epoxy (I don’t know if it was water or solvent base) 10 years ago. I’ve abused it by welding a lot but it held up! It is beginning to show wear can I recoat with epoxy and what prep must be done?
Shea says
Hello Ronald. Yes, you can prep for a recoat if the epoxy is sound. It requires roughing up the surface with 120-150 grit sandpaper, vacuum, and then wipe with denatured alcohol. We have more about the process in this article here.
Lindy says
A hot water unit was moved since I used an epoxy floor coating in the garage (12 months ago). I am wanting to paint just that 42cm diameter circle of concrete. The rest of the floor is in great condition. Are there any patch up kits or will I buy an epoxy paint just to make do until I redo the entire floor further down the track.
Shea says
Hello Lindy. Unfortunately you don’t state what product was used, so I can’t answer the question. Manufacturers of the typical DIY epoxy kits that you purchase from home improvement centers do not offer touch up kits. If it was a quality commercial product from a concrete coating vendor, then one may be available. A point to be aware of is that coatings do not blend well together like regular paint does. The overlap marks will make it obvious where a new coating was applied over the old. If you used color flakes, they can help to camouflage it a bit. You might be better off color matching the coating with a concrete paint if you plan on redoing the floor sometime in the future.
LINDA LENNARD says
Thanks for your response Shea. I think it was Rustoleum Rocksolid which I applied. I will take your advice and match with concrete paint and redo the whole lot sometime in the future. Unfortunately I used up all the colour flakes.
Bill Grupp says
My basement may be coated with a 2 part epoxy, how can I tell for sure?
Shea says
Hello Bill. Apply a tablespoon of acetone or mineral spirits to inconspicuous area of the floor. Let it set for a minute or two and then rub it dry vigorously with a clean rag. If it’s paint, the surface may soften and a lot of the color will come up on the rag. If it’s epoxy, it might discolor the rag slightly and degloss the area, but that is it.
Sonny Hargrave says
I pulled the carpet up in one of my bed rooms last year. I bought my epoxy from Epoxy Masters. I watch the video and also watch some videos on the internet. It looked too easy to do. I tried their product for the first time in my life. I applied two coats. It was really that easy to do. It came out awesome. Looks like something you would see in a magazine. Two part epoxy is the only way to go.
Rebecca Rowell says
I painted with latex, and the car pulled up the paint, I sanded those spots and used a primer and painted again with latex, and now the store advised using a sealer (is this correct?) also if so should I use those decorative chips in the sealer to prevent slipping and falling? (the store advised me of what to use and do but not sure if all of this is correct, or should I just buy a rug and the heck with it?
Shea says
Hi Rebecca. The problem is that latex paint does not hold up at all when it comes to hot tires. It doesn’t matter what you apply over it, it’s still the weak link and will still pull up if you put a clear acrylic coating over it. Decorative color flakes are cosmetic only and will not enhance slip resistance. It you apply a clear acrylic coating over the paint you can mix in an anti-slip additive to vastly improve wet performance. Like we stated though, it will not improve the performance of the latex paint and those areas will still pull up.
robert says
What would you recommend for a clear top coat on an acrylic stain (tan with flakes) that is on a concrete garage floor? Don’t have any info on the acrylic stain or who the manufacturer is.
Shea says
Hi Robert. If the stain is an acrylic, then it’s actually a thin coating. This article explains more. The only clear you can put on an acrylic base is another acrylic. It’s also important to determine if the base acrylic stain is water-based or solvent-based. You can apply a water-based acrylic on top of both water or solvent-based acrylics, but you can’t place a solvent-based acrylic on a water-based acrylic. The solvents will tend to soften the water-based acrylic and make a color mess.
Robert says
Thanks – you have been very helpful
Victoria says
Hi Shea,
I’m not sure if you’re still answering questions because it’s been a few years since the last post but I’ll try anyway.
I was thinking of using epoxy floor covering on the plywood on the upper level of my garage because we’re turning that space into a small living area for my mother when she visits. With the other work going on, we thought we’d postpone spending $ on hardwood flooring right now. My question has 2 parts 1. would the more viscous epoxy floor covering do an ok job filling in the small lines between the boards and 2. would it yellow from the sunlight coming in from the windows? I know it’s ambers when it’s in direct sun but not sure how sensitive it is if say, we lay down area rugs and the sun travels across the room throughout the day.
Thanks for a great article by the way!
Shea says
Hi Victoria. Epoxy can be applied to wood flooring as long as the floor does not flex much. Epoxy is a very hard substance that does not flex. If the floor flexes, then the epoxy will crack. Unless you are using 100% solids epoxy, it will not fill the tight gaps between the boards and create a smooth finish. As epoxy cures, the water or solvents that act as a carrier for the solids will evaporate away. When it does this, the wet film thickness decreases and any holes, voids, and etc., that were filled will be exposed to some degree. It’s similar to how paint reacts on a wall when you paint over a hole that was not patched. Yes, it will amber if exposed to direct sunlight – even through windows. You will need to sand the wood with 60 grit sandpaper before application.
Sylvester Powell says
Hi shea,
I did my floor with a Diy kit from lowes . It came out looking great. The only problem is it is very slippery when it rain or get wet!! I have fallen twice on it. I plan on redoing it what can i do to stop it from being so slipplery. I say someone say shart grip.
Shea says
Hi Sylvester. Assuming this kit is a 2-part epoxy and not paint, what you can do is apply an additional coat of clear epoxy that has an anti-slip additive mixed in. Before you apply the clear epoxy, however, it will require that you rough up the current surface with 120 grit sandpaper first in order for it to adhere properly. We have an article here that discusses how to do this.
Angel Orque says
What should I use to clean my expoxy painted floors?
Shea says
Hi Angel. We have an article here that discusses that.
Tony Adams says
Hello,
I’m in the process of preparing my garage floor for Rustoleum Rocksolid Epoxy by grinding off the old sealant but I want to paint the five inch stem walls a different color, not with epoxy. Must I grind off the sealant as well or will regular primer and paint stick to the sealant? If so, should I paint them before or after the floor epoxy has been finished?
Thanks.
Shea says
Hi Tony. Are you sure that the stem walls have been sealed? It’s uncommon for that to be done. If they are sealed with a penetrating sealer and they have the typical rough finish, you should be OK with applying a regular concrete paint. When you are painting the stem walls, it can be done in any order that works best for you. We always like to paint them first ourselves so that we don’t have to worry about paint getting on the coating.
Tony Adams says
Shea,
Actually, no I am not sure they’re sealed. I just assumed it was as they are the same color as the floor. They do have a rough surface on them.
Ok, thank you very much!
Paul Williams says
Hey there,
I used a product called Seal-a-crete to seal my basement floor from water that would come up after heavy rainfall, it seems to have worked. I understand that I now need to diamond grind the floor (according to the seal-a-crete instructions, to permanently seal it nicely). Having done that, I’d like to use a two-part epoxy coating over it.
Can I just apply the epoxy coating, or do I (still) need to use a primer?
Could I forgo the diamond grinding (the floor has a rough feel to it), fill the cracks and holes in with epoxy filler, and just put the epoxy over the floor?
Would I still need a primer on a sealed floor?
Other parts of the basement are not sealed as I never have an issue with water or damp, can an epoxy coating be applied straight onto a bare concrete floor, and would I need to use a primer?
Lost of questions there, appreciate any information given. Thank you.
Shea says
Hello Paul. All concrete types need the proper prep (etch or grind) before application of an epoxy coating. You can’t just begin application to bare concrete without the proper prep. Because the product you applied is a densifier, it requires that you grind the concrete in order to provide the proper profile and open the pores at the surface. If you are applying a commercial quality high solids or 100% solids epoxy, then an epoxy primer (not concrete paint primer) is highly recommended. If you plan on applying a thin mil, low solids epoxy such as Rust-Oleum, then an epoxy primer is not needed.
Jessi says
We used acrylic on our garage floor. It cane off just with my tires on it. Can we paint epoxy over the top or do we need to remove all of the acrylic first?
Shea says
Hi Jessi. You need to remove the acrylic paint first. If not, the epoxy coating you apply over it will just peel up with the paint since that is what it is adhered to.
Eileen DePaolo says
Hi,
I just put a layer of Hilti self leveling cement on my garage floors. The garage has a slope. I put a stop at the bottom but it pooled a bit (wavy). Getting a grinder to even it out. My question is what do I put on it now?
The grinder will etch the floor. I’m concerned that an epoxy coat will pool as well. Although after reading your article, I think that if I purchased a 100% solid product I may be able to put it on with out pooling at the garage door due to the sloping,. Is this correct?
Also I have watch a few YouTube companies that have a “ dirty pour”. I know that will not work. Can you recommend an epoxy that would work?
My last question there is a Behr product called granite grip. I think it’s just a latex with sand… I don’t really know. Would that be a good option.
My goal look good and last.
Thank you,
Eileen
Shea says
Hello Eileen. What product by Hilti did you use specifically. Do you have a link to it?
Eileen DePaolo says
Ok I made a mistake we put CMP pioneering cement technology Liqui Cem mixed with Hilti to make it thicker for the pour so it would not drip so much on the slope.
Now it grinder and smooth.
I like the look just need a top coat.
Like I said it slopes so I would like something to go on with a roller. It’s 250sft. And it has been sitting for two weeks.
Shea says
Hi Eileen. Fortunately, Liquicem by CMP is one of the few underlayments that can accept a coating. Most can’t. You mentioned earlier that you were going to grind. If you did the entire floor, then it will accept a coating. DO NOT USE Behr Granite Grip. It’s just a latex acrylic paint with an additive added. It will not last. For your application we would recommend an epoxy primer and a high solids epoxy base color coat. You can add a high performance clear coat of polyurethane for even better wear and chemical protection if you like. Here is an example that covers up to 300 square feet. These type of coating systems go on with a roller. The high solids epoxy base coat is poured out in ribbons immediately after it is mixed, but it is rolled on after that.
Eileen DePaolo says
Thank you
Judy Gorun says
I have a 20 x 21 foot garage floor that has been painted 2 or 3 times with epoxy paint (not coating). The floor has a few places that collect water in a heavy rain, and some of the places may be 2 or 3 feet wide. I would like to have the floor epoxy coated. What would be the process?
Shea says
Hi Judy. The process requires that all the paint be removed via grinding down to the bare concrete. The grinding will also prep the bare concrete for a proper epoxy or similar coating system at the same time. Low spots can be difficult to work with. You have to remember that the water that is collected in the low spot is now going to move somewhere else. The best way to help level small low spots like that is to apply an epoxy slurry. This consists of a 100% solids epoxy mixed with some clean silica sand to provide volume. It’s poured out and troweled into the low area. Once cured, it is then treated to grinding in order make the repair area even and flush with surrounding concrete. The grinding also preps the surface for a coating.
Tony says
Hello I just purchased rustoleum metallics epoxy my garage has a slope in it. Will the paint end up pooling or running? Is it best for level floors. Thanks Tony
Shea says
Hi Tony. It will work fine for a garage with a slope. It would need to be very steep before you encounter issues with it slumping.
Tony says
Awesome thank you.
Terrance says
What about an Outdoor BBQ Island Concrete countertop? I had one built and they did a horrible job. It has low spots and even has exposed rebar on the top which is rusting. Can’t stand looking at the countertop is there an outdoor epoxy that I can use and will it prevent the rebar from rusting any further?
Shea says
Hi Terrance. Epoxy cannot be used outdoors. The U.V. rays from direct sunlight will cause epoxy to chalk and deteriorate. Plus, it would look much different than the rest of the counter.
Your first problem, however, is the rusting rebar. If that is not fixed, it will continue to expand as it rusts and will cause the surrounding concrete to continue spalling. You need to chip away some of the surrounding concrete and then wire brush the rebar to remove the heavy rust. You can then treat it to a rebar rust sealer product of your choice. After that, we suggest applying a polymer-modified concrete overlay to fill the depressions and provide a thin (but strong) overlay to the counter top to make it look new again.
Kat says
I’m about to have my basement cleaned and painted and I’d like to use epoxy for the floors. How important is it to have 100% solids based epoxy, or is a water based blend acceptable? Do you have any specific brands you can recommend? Conversely, are they any I should avoid? Thanks so much!
Shea says
Hi Kat. It all depends on how the floor is going to be used. Quality water-based epoxy will do just fine when it’s foot traffic only. Just keep in mind that you will not get the high color gloss that most people associate with epoxy from a water-based coating. They are usually satin or semi gloss in appearance. 100% solids epoxy has a much glossier appearance if that is important to you. Solvent-based epoxy can be glossy as well, but it’s not recommended because of the smell that will permeate the house while it cures.
The big concern about coatings when used in a basement is moisture. Coatings do not tolerate moisture well from within the concrete and will delaminate if enough moisture is present. Have you done a proper moisture test yet during the wet time of the year?
Kat says
The basement will be used mostly for storage and laundry, and high gloss isn’t important to me. I had water intrusion issues for years that are finally resolved through a waterproofing system. However, I have not done a moisture test. Thanks for the recommendation, as well as the advice on the efficacy of the water-based epoxy.
Gary says
Hi my kid recently pulled up the carpet, padding, and old tiles in her room. There is a black mastic still bonded to the concrete slab floor. Will a two part epoxy paint properly seal it as it most likely has some asbestos in it? Or do you carry any type of encapsulant? Thanks.
Shea says
Hi Gary. Just to avoid some confusion, All Garage Floors is an informational website only. We do not sell products. Regarding your question, you cannot apply epoxy or a similar coating over mastic. It will not adhere properly. If you suspect it’s an older asphalt mastic with asbestos, it can safely be removed with a chemical stripper. Most people who have done this report that it comes up easier than modern day mastic. Do not grind to remove it though.
Cecile says
Hi. I just had out covered patio floor painted with some floor paint. I was actually hoping for an epoxy-like finish. Is is ok to have my painter apply an epoxy coating on top of it?
Also, a fee years ago out garage also was painted and now has patches and smudges and skid marks. Id like to epoxy coat it, does it need to have the paint stripped? Would it be labor intensive? Im afraid my painter will charge me a lot due to too much labor. Thank you
Cecile
Shea says
Hello Cecile. No, concrete paints and 1-part epoxy paints are not designed to be clear coated. They are stand alone products that are not compatible. This article here explains more. You never want to apply a true epoxy coating over paint. Paint does not adhere nearly as well as epoxy. The epoxy coating would be limited to how well the paint is adhered to the concrete and will pull right up from hot tires and other issues that paint is susceptible to. The best way to remove the paint is via grinding. This will prep the concrete for epoxy at the same time. It can be chemically stripped and then the bare concrete acid etched, but the process is more labor intensive and messy than grinding. Beware of having painters apply epoxy. Many assume it’s the same as painting a wall or concrete (it isn’t) and they tend to take short cuts or do the job incorrectly. We get plenty of emails from people who had an epoxy coating applied by a painter that come to us asking questions about how to fix problems the painter created.
Jessica Wolfrum says
We have wall cabinets in our garage that are not fully suspended…they have “feet” touching the ground. These cabinets run the whole length of the garage side wall. it would be very hard to get a roller under the cabinets. Is it ok to stop rolling with the epoxy at the front end of the cabinet wall? And under the cabinets will remain the original cement flooring. Could this lead to issues in the future?
Shea says
Hi Jessica. Unless you have concrete issues currently that is not being disclosed, you will be fine running the coating up to the edge of the cabinets.
Linda says
Hi, In your experience with epoxy “paints”, do you think a 50% solids (floor) product would adhere sufficiently to properly primed ceramic tile? I’m thinking of using it to change the colour of a kitchen backsplash.
Thanks,
Linda
Shea says
Hi Linda. Since it would be going on a backsplash, you most likely would not have any problems. We would not recommend it though if was tile subjected to foot or vehicular traffic.
Mark says
I need help. I have a parking garage roughly 15,000 ft.² They want concrete floor to be coated. They do not want a full Epoxy on it they need it to be a low Voc. About 100 cars a day parks on it. What can I put down that will meet there needs?
Shea says
Hello Mark. We suggest that you contact ArmorPoxy. They are a very large company with a full compliment of coatings from home to industrial, including outdoors and parking garages. They carry coatings exclusively for parking areas as well.
Murray Welch says
Thanks for your website and all the information it contains. I am renovating my basement after the first flood in 16 years and I want to recoat the floor with something rather than putting down carpet again or vinyl plank floor. My contractor suggested Epoxy Coatings, which I thought were only for garage and industrial floors. Reading your entire website I have found enough information (Kat, Gary, and Cecile) to talk myself out of epoxy coating. I have both carpet tape residual and the original concrete paint which would have to be removed, and I don’t wish to have to sand/grind the entire floor. So, I am going to opt for concrete paint again. Thanks for all the advice in your collection of articles.
Shea says
Hi Murry. We are glad that you got the information you were looking for. Keep in mind that moisture can be an issue as well. One option you may want to consider if you want something that looks nicer than paint is to use interlocking floor tiles. They allow the concrete to breathe and are not susceptible to moisture issues. There are some real nice products out there that even resemble wood floors.
Shannon says
Hello, I am in the process of renovating my basement and am very interested in applying epoxy coating to the floor. We have about 800sq ft and we recently grinded the finish off the entire floor. We do have some chips and cracks to fill and I’m wondering what the best product is to fill small imperfections prior to applying the epoxy? Also, I want the marbled look so from what I have read and watched we need to primer, apply base color coat, apply the accent color to create the marbled look then apply the clear glossy top coat. Is that correct? Where is the best place to get these products? Our local Sherman Williams has the two part epoxy and top coat but no primers. I’m not sure about the quality of their epoxy or about the solid component percentage. I’m trying to find the most reasonable product because we have a pretty tight budget but I also don’t want to end up have to redo the floor any time soon. Any recommendation would be greatly appreciated!!
Shea says
Hi Shannon. For small chips and cracks you can use the Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch & Repair. You can find it at your local home improvement center or here on Amazon. Makes sure to grind all repairs flush after it has cured.
For a quality looking marbled flooring system, you are not going to find anything from a national chain brick and mortar store. These are specialized coatings that typically require some experience to apply and stores don’t want to deal with the customer service and knowledge required to supply it. It will require purchasing from a coating vendor online that specializes in commercial quality coating products. It’s not inexpensive either. Marbled flooring systems are a type of metallic flooring. It requires the use of specially formulated 100% solids epoxy. Sometimes two or more colors are needed depending on the desired look. 100% solids epoxy is required to achieve the flow requirements to get the marbled look. It generally goes down at a low coverage rate as well. For the deepest look, the coverage rates can be as low as 60-70 square feet per gallon. Costs will range from $1500 – $2500 dollars in materials for that much square footage. It’s not a recommended flooring for a DIY application if you have never applied a commercial coating before, but it can be done with success with the proper planning. Also, keep in mind that no two floors look the same. Some artistic ability certainly helps, but is not required. Most installers learn with experience how to get the look they want. You can start with contacting Legacy Industrial and ArmorPoxy. Another that specializes in the marbled look is a company called Leggari. They have many videos you view as well. We highly suggest talking with these vendors and telling them about your project. They will break down what is required in terms of materials and application. Good luck!
Corina says
Thank you so much for this informative site and answering questions.
I purchased Armorseal 1000 marine 2 part epoxy covering for the floors in my Clothing Store. Now I am wondering about the clothing and other products permanently absorbing the smells. Do you think I must remove all products before I paint, or they will be okay? Again, thank you so much for your assistance.
Corina
Shea says
Hi Corina. ArmorSeal 1000 HS is a higher solids water-based epoxy. It’s not going to have a strong smell and VOC’s like a solvent-based epoxy would, but there will still be a bit of a smell. It’s safe to use indoors and will not permeate the walls and stay. However, you may want to remove the clothes. We know that fabrics can absorb a variety of smells until washed. Everything else though should be fine.
Tina Burgard says
Thank you so much for having this site. I’m getting ready to epoxy or paint my basement floor. The basement is for storage, laundry, and my workout equipment. I have a water based primer I plan to use but now I’m starting to doubt myself because there are so many articles that say different things. Please help me.
1. My basement floor is very smooth, I’m told I can primer just the way it is, don’t need to rough it up. True or False?
2. I’ve read to put down 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of paint or epoxy. T or F?
3. Whether I use paint or epoxy I read to put AT LEAST 3 coats of a sealant on top of the paint/epoxy.
4. Can you recommend a good primer, epoxy (unless you think paint works just as well) and sealant?
Thank you for any advice.
Shea says
Hi Tina. I will answer your questions via the number.
1) False. Paint and especially epoxy, does not adhere well to smooth concrete. Are you getting your info from a home improvement center?
2) True and false. It depends on whether you are going use epoxy or paint. As the article states, there is a big difference between the two.
3) False. What do you mean by a sealant? Epoxy is a sealant – paint is not. Are you referring to a clear coat?
4) I think a lot of the confusion is coming from mixed information you are acquiring about both products. Most manufacturers of latex acrylic paints and 1-part epoxy paints recommend using a concrete bonding primer first. One coat is sufficient. However, if the concrete is real smooth it will require roughing up the surface first via etching. All proper concrete bonding primers will require this for smooth concrete. Here is an example. Concrete bonding primers are not compatible with true 2-part epoxy coatings.
Epoxy primers are completely different than concrete bonding primers. They are an actual 2-part epoxy coating and applied when a high solids commercial quality colored epoxy base coat is being used. These primers cost cost more than the typical DIY epoxy kits that you can buy from your local home improvement center.
First, we recommend deciding what product you want to use first. An epoxy paint will work OK since it’s just foot traffic. However, you cannot apply a clear coat to it if that is what you want to do. You can only do that with a true epoxy coating. Second, regardless of which product you choose, you will need to etch your concrete. Third, have you conducted a moisture test of the basement floor yet? Kudos to you for doing your homework, but I think you are getting some bad information somewhere and it’s getting things confused. Please follow up with any questions you have and we will try to help you out.
TINA R BURGARD says
Thank you so much. I got some information from the Home Improvement store and from on-line articles, such as yours. Just by reading your site I learned alot and reading your responses to others made me feel that you know your stuff. That’s why I asked for help. 1 last question. How do I etch? Am I just using sandpaper? My dad told me he did an acid etch years ago when he did the garage.
Shea says
Hi Tina. We are glad you are figuring things out. Yes, we get many of our readers trying to fix problems created when they got bad advice from a home improvement center. Etching is a process that breaks down the surface of the concrete to expose the open pores. This allows paint or epoxy to penetrate the subsurface so that it can obtain a mechanical bond. It involves a liquid mixture that reacts with the minerals in the concrete surface. Acid etching is the most effective, however, we do not recommend it for a basement due to the fumes. It works fine for a garage since they are well ventilated. Rust-Oleum makes an Eco safe citric acid etch that usually works OK for paint and the Rust-Oleum epoxy products. You can find it at Home Depot. It also comes with the purchase of one of their epoxy kits. This video here shows you how it’s done. Sanding does not work because concrete it is too hard. Grinding is the mechanical method of prepping the concrete surface.