One garage flooring option that has created quite a buzz in the industry the last few years is polyurea/polyaspartic floor coatings. This relatively new coating has become the latest favorite for installers as an alternative to epoxy. It has created some confusion for home owners as well. The fast curing ability of this system is being billed as the “Holy Grail” of floor coatings and is advertised as the best of everything that a coating can do.
So if it’s not an epoxy, what is it exactly and why would you want it on your garage floor? Let’s unravel the confusion about polyurea and polyaspartic floor coatings and see why many garage flooring companies are pushing this new product.
What are Polyurea and Polyaspartic Coatings
Without getting too technical, Polyurea is a subgroup of polyurethane. It is formed when isocyanates react with water or polyetheramines to create a urea linkage. Like epoxy, it is a 2-part component that mixes resin with a catalyst to cause the curing reaction that makes the material hard.
It has low to no VOC’s and has an elongation rate that exceeds 300%, making it much more flexible than epoxy. It is commonly used for spray-on bed liners, interior pipe coating, liquid containment lining and many other industrial applications such as tunnel coatings and fillers for joints. Because of its extremely fast cure rate (less than 5 seconds and fully hard in less than 5 minutes), most polyureas require specialized equipment for application.
Polyaspartic is a type of aliphatic polyurea. To quote Bayer Material Science:
“By definition, a polyaspartic is an aliphatic polyurea because it is the reaction of an aliphatic polyisocyanate with a polyaspartic ester – which is an aliphatic diamine”.
What polyaspartics do is conquer the difficulties of the extremely fast cure rate of polyurea in order to apply the coating in a more traditional manner, with a longer pot life of 5 to 120 minutes depending on the formulation.
So in essence, all polyaspartics are a polyurea, but not all polyureas are a polyaspartic. So to lessen the confusion, this means that when you see a garage floor coating or kit being advertised as a polyurea, or a polyurea polyaspartic, it is really some formulation of a polyaspartic coating.
Benefits of Polyaspartic Coatings
Now that we’ve covered these eye numbing explanations, what does it mean for you? The two biggest advantages of a polyaspartic or polyurea garage floor coating are temperature and time.
Unlike epoxy, a polyaspartic coating can be applied in temperatures as low as -30F to as high as 140F depending on the formulation. That means you don’t have to wait till spring or summer to coat your garage floor if you live in a colder climate.
Typical polyurea and polyaspartic floor coatings are applied in just two coats; the first being both the primer and color coat and the second being the clear coat. Because of their fast cure rates, a complete flooring system can be installed in one day and returned to service the next. This means that you won’t have to do without your garage for 3-4 days like you would for a full epoxy system.
There are many other benefits to a polyurea/polyaspartic floor coating as well. These include:
- 100% U.V. stability – they will never yellow.
- Crystal clear finish that won’t blush from moisture in the concrete.
- Similar high abrasion and scratch resistance to polyurethane.
- High tolerance to heat, meaning hot tire pick up is a non-issue.
- High film build-up that can be controlled by the applicator.
- High gloss finish
- High solids content with little to no VOC’s in most applications.
- High stain and chemical resistance. This includes salts for winter climates.
- Good flexibility for higher impact resistance.
- Excellent wetting characteristics allowing for good penetration into the concrete for a strong bond.
- Decreased chance of bubbles from outgassing due to the faster cure rate.
Costs and Installation Factors
Though a polyaspartic or polyurea flooring system does have some great benefits, there are some other factors to consider before you decide if this is the best system for you.
The first is cost. To have it professionally installed will cost an average of $2 to $3 more per square foot than an equivalent epoxy and polyurethane system.
It is also not the most user friendly “do it yourself” installation and requires a minimum of two people to apply. Depending on the formulation of the polyaspartic, the average pot life is only 20 to 25 minutes. This can be very intimidating if you haven’t done a floor coating before. Also, the materials alone can cost almost twice as much as epoxy.
A good example by Advacoat on how a polyaspartic floor coating is installed
One thing to keep in mind is that like epoxy, not all polyaspartics are created equal. Some of the DIY kits that are being offered are not of the same quality as the more professional versions. So shop around and compare if you want to install a garage floor coating yourself. The formulations are different and come with a lower solids content in order to lengthen the pot life. Grinding the concrete is also the recommended floor prep.
While polyurea / polyaspartic coatings are not affected by water or humidity when fully cured, humidity during installation can cause the coating to cure much more rapidly and should be monitored before installation.
***Update***
There are now newer single-part polyurea garage floor coatings available that are extremely easy to apply. They have and unlimited pot life and excellent protection. Learn about single-part polyurea here.
Another consideration is that if you are a regular garage mechanic, polyaspartics don’t stand up as well to battery acids like epoxy and polyurethane does. They also can be very slippery when wet. If you are not applying full paint chips to add texture, it is advisable to add a slip resistant aggregate into the top coat to increase the anti-slip properties of the coating.
One of the biggest reasons that professional installers are offering polyaspartic floor coatings is to sell the benefit of being without your garage for only a day. A good installer can prep your concrete and install your coating in as little as 6 – 8 hours. You can be moving your belongings back into the garage before the day is done and park your car in it the next. This can be a huge advantage for people who can’t be without their garage for 3 or 4 days.
If you need to have a garage floor coating installed in less than ideal temperatures or need the advantage of being without your garage for only a day, then a professionally installed polyurea or polyaspartic floor coating may be just what you need. It is a great garage flooring option if the cost is in the budget.
Hi Shea,
I am looking to have my garage floor finished. I live in Minnesota. I have talked to two contractors. One has a Polyurea + Chips + Polyurea process where the other has an Epoxy + Chips + two coats of Polyurea top coats. The latter says the epoxy bonds and seals better on concrete as a base coat than Polyurea but adding the two layers of Polyurea topcoat provides the superior protection needed. The cost between the two contractors was not significantly different.
With the prep processes being a diamond grind for both, what one would you think would provide the best results over time?
Thanks,
Steve
Hi Steve. You ask a great question. The latter is the best way to go between the two choices. As stated, epoxy will bond better with the concrete since it takes a little longer to cure. The clear coat is the wear coat. So two coats of polyurea is excellent for a floor with color flakes – particularly if you opt for a full flake floor.
I have heard that the polyurea basecoat is better than epoxy. Have I heard incorrectly? How can I get to the bottom of actual facts of an epoxy primer versus a polyurea primer being the better choice? Thanks for your help.
Hello CC. Are you asking about base coats (polyurea vs epoxy) or are you asking about the appropriate primers for base coats? These are actually two completely different things. What is it exactly that you want to accomplish?
I guess then I’m not sure. I’m being told that a polyurea base coat (then flakes – then polyaspartic top coat) is better than an epoxy base (then flakes – then polyaspartic top coat).
But then I read your article that says an epoxy primer, then an epoxy base, then flakes, then polyaspartic top coat is the best.
Now I’m confused! I want the top end, high end, best, long lasting, durable solution in my garage (and for that matter then concrete in my basement, also will be doing outside sidewalk/porch and pool deck).
This one contractor is telling me polyurea (that they roll and brush on) is best for basecoat. They don’t say anything about primer – just polyurea base, flakes, then polyaspartic top. They also say they won’t offer any kind of epoxy at any level because it is “widely known” that epoxy is inferior and would never have a long warranty (lifetime) against chipping and peeling.
Which is best?
Thanks!
Ugh… It’s contractors like these that create confusion when potential customers are trying to figure out what is best for them. It is not “widely known” that any type of epoxy is inferior to polyurea and/or polyaspartic coatings. It is a very ignorant statement or they are just trying to sell you (quite poorly) on the only system of coatings they use. High solids and more commonly, 100% solids epoxy, is widely used in commercial applications for such things as warehouse floors, automotive dealerships, restaurant kitchens, and etc. It is a very high build (thick) coating that provides many performance characteristics depending on how the floor will be used. It is only used indoors (not direct sunlight) due to the fact that it is not U.V. stable.
Many concrete coating installers are using polyurea and/or polyaspartic coatings these days because they can get them installed in one day. This saves money on labor and allows them to do more jobs in a given week. Most are good quality coating systems that provides outstanding abrasion and chemical resistance as well as U.V. resistance. They can also be applied outdoors. If they are a reputable contractor with a good warranty, these types of coatings can perform very well, but they are not the best.
Ultimately, the top coat is what determines how well a system will wear, resist scratches, and resist staining. Therefore, a hybrid system that consists of an epoxy primer, 100% solids epoxy, full color flakes, and a polyurea or polyaspartic top coat is going to provide better durability and impact resistance because it is much thicker and adheres better to the concrete. It is also U.V. stable since the epoxy is essentially covered by the full color flakes. Epoxy takes longer to cure and as a result, it seeps deeper into the concrete pores to get the best mechanical bite for adhesion. That is where the epoxy primer comes into play. Coatings that cure within a couple hours to bare concrete (polyaspartic) will not get the same adhesion. Garage floor coating contractors that offer a variety of products will always quote such a hybrid system as the best. Hybrid systems can be as much a 35-40 mils thick, whereas the standard two coat polyurea polyaspartic floors are 15-20 mils thick. Keep in mind that such a hybrid system can be overkill if all you do is park your cars in the garage and do light maintenance work.
Also, always ask to see the data sheets on the product a contractor plans to use as well. This is a way to compare product from one contractor to another. This article here also helps with choosing a floor coating contractor. Hopefully we cleared some things up and didn’t create more confusion for you!
Thanks for the detailed response about the hybrid system. You know your stuff, as you are correct: this contractor only provides the one system (polyurea base, flakes, and polyaspartic top).
However, they also claimed that epoxy is more susceptible to any moisture that might come up from bottom through concrete (causing bond failure); whereas, polyurea actually welcomes the moisture as a catalyst that helps the curing process.
Also, they claimed the polyurea is much more flexible than epoxy, so any shift in concrete from earth movement, moisture expansion, freezing, and just the expanding and contracting of surfaces with temperature changes allow polyurea to hold up with much more flexible properties. They said the epoxy is more brittle; therefore, will develop cracking more easily. I was told expect a 3-5 year life before recoat needed on a 100% solid epoxy base vs likely never needed again with a polyurea base due to superior strength and flexibility.
Are they just selling me a bill of goods or what?
Yikes… many polyureas are moisture cured. This means that the catalyst for the curing process is moisture in the air – not the ground. The more moisture in the air, the faster they cure and vice versa. If ground moisture is introduced during the curing process the polyurea will react in a negative manner. Special formulations of epoxy are actually used as moisture vapor barrier blockers for concrete – not polyurea. Just do a google search for “concrete coating moisture block” and you will see all the epoxy products and not polyurea. Epoxy bonds better with concrete and is why special blends are used to prevent bond failure in concrete with high moisture content.
Yes, polyurea and polyaspartics are more flexible than epoxy (relatively speaking). This flexibility helps to prevent scratches (hard epoxy scratches easier) and is one of the reasons why it makes for such a good top coat. Special blends of polyurea are good to fill contraction joints before a coating is applied as well. However, if your concrete actually develops a serious crack, a polyurea coating is not going to hide it. Epoxy coatings are used all over the world in climates with large temperature swings. We have yet to see an epoxy floor coating that suffered to concrete expansion and contraction.
The part of a floor coating that would require a recoat as it wears (if it’s needed) is the TOPCOAT – not the base coat. You would have to wear through the polyurea/polyapartic top coat on a hybrid system in order to get to the 100% solids epoxy base coat to begin with. If you are using the same top coat, how would it be possible for the epoxy base to be exposed and not the polyurea base? What they are stating makes no sense at all. Unfortunately, it sounds like the more they speak the more they reveal their ignorance. They obviously know just enough to tout the benefits of the one polyurea polyaspartic coating system they install without knowing the science behind it and even less about other coatings. How long have they been in business?
As I stated, the type of system they install (assuming it’s good product) is a good system, but it’s not the best as they suggest. However, it does quite well for the average residential garage.
We have just had a polyurethaning polyaspartic floor professionally installed in our garage last week. The oder is horrific. We now have heaters and fans going. Not much help. Are these fumes toxic? We are in St. Louis, Mo. The temperature has been around 30 degrees. Our installer came with good recommendations. How can we eliminate the smell from these fumes? Thanks.
Hello Sandra. It can take longer for the coating to cure in colder temps, but the odor should not last more than a few days. If the odor is still bad we recommend that you contact the installer and have them come and examine the coating. We have found in the past with cold temperatures that sometimes installers can be a bit too anxious and not wait long enough for the first coat to set up and cure before applying the second coat. As a result, solvent fumes from the first coat get trapped and can take a long time to dissipate if at all for quite a while. If this happens, it sometimes requires removal and reapplication of the top coat or even the entire coating to solve the problem.
I’m curious about product qualifications, I need a product that has ease of application, versatility with regard to application environment, as well as the ability to conform to industry requisites such as ansi etc. Is there a single part polyurea or polyaspartic product that will fit this criteria?
Hi Brian. We suggest contacting both Legacy Industrial and ArmorPoxy and ask them about the ansi specs. They both provide single-part polyureas to commercial floor coating contractors and installers that are required to meet certain specification. In fact, the ArmorPoxy clear single-part polyurea was used inside the main floor of the 9/11 Memorial in New York.
I have had two estimates for garage floor coating. The first estimate was for a polyurea coating and the second one was for a polyaspartic coating. What is the upside to either? My understanding is that they are both a polyurea. There is a premium price for the polyaspartic however I can’t seem to find information stating clear benefits. What are the differences? Carol
Hello Carol. The two coatings are similar, however, polyaspartic coatings typically will cure faster and are available in higher solids for a thicker finish. We suggest asking each contractor for the data sheets so that you can compare the differences in performance. Also ask how many coats are going to be applied and what the total thickness of the flooring will be. This article on how to choose floor coating contractors has more information as well.
Hello,
We have just finished building a automobile dealership and are also in the process of renovating another. The new dealership has an epoxy floor in the service garage and I am already noticing that studded snow tires are cutting through and damaging the new finish. I have been told that a polyspartic floor coating would hold up much better to studded snow tires than the epoxy floor. Is that correct? We have not finished the floor yet in our second project and don’t want to make the same mistake. Both dealerships are in the north east of the US.
Hello Rick. Epoxy is common to use as a base color coat since it provides such a thick and hard build. The key, however, it what it is top coated with. Epoxy is rarely the final coat for such circumstances. Yes, a high performance 2-part polyaspartic floor coating will stand up better than epoxy as a final finish. Part of the reason has to do with the fact that it is actually more flexible and less prone to chipping from studs. We recommend that you give ArmorPoxy a call and talk with them. They are a large supplier of concrete coating products in the northeast. They provide product as well as perform installations for many dealerships in your neck of the woods. They can give you the information you need for the correct product based on your needs.
Hello,
I have a two-car garage at my home in the Northeast. As it the entrance to my house most of the time, I am interested in covering the cement flooring to make it look better. No work is completed in the garage…just parking. The concrete has some cracks in it and the garage is partially below the ground level. I have never seen water perculate into the garage from the ground below.
The first company I contacted recommended a Floortek surface, which is a polyaspartic material. I was very excited about the look of this until a second opinion company advised against any type of coating due to signs of moisture in the concrete. Instead, they advised a floor tiling system.
Again, I have never seen water in my garage that didn’t come from the car tires, but there is cracking. Is this a contraindication to a polyaspartic floor covering? I’m just not crazy about the look of the tiles and would much rather have a truly show-room quality garage floor if possible!
Thank you for your thoughts.
Hello Robert. Just because there may be evidence of moisture, it doesn’t mean that there is. We recommend calling the first company back and ask them about moisture testing, what they use for moisture mitigation, and what warranties they have for possible moisture. Tell them what the other company stated. There are special epoxy primer moisture vapor blockers that can be used for concrete that has moisture issues. Cracks in concrete is not a sign of moisture problems. Testing for moisture is not always easy since some slabs will only develop moisture during the wet season. The second company may not have such products and wants to avoid a possible moisture problem by installing tiles instead. While this type of approach avoids issues, it doesn’t deal with a possible solution (if necessary) for the customer either. Before you abandon the coating you want, make sure to talk with a floor coating contractor who deals with potential moisture problems in order to get better information about your options.
I have a suspended garage floor with a few cracks where leaking has occurred into the room below. What is the best product to use to insure a good protection from snow and water on the garage floor not seeping down into the room below?
Hello Doug. The first requirement is to properly repair the cracks first. Assuming that you want a coating, a single-part polyurea or professionally installed polyurea polyaspartic flooring would be a good choice. These type of coatings have some flex to them which would be desirable for a suspended concrete floor. If a coating is out of the budget, then a good winter containment mat is another option.
Thank you!
My garage floor was previously painted. I had a contractor come out who wants to use Sherwin Williams ArmorSeal heavy duty floor coatings – Urethane. Is this as good as Epoxy? He has quoted me about half of what another place is charging for Epoxy. I want to make sure I am doing the right thing. He says he will guarantee it for 5 years. Please advise.
Hello Doreen. Does your current floor have paint applied or was it an actual resinous coating? There is a difference. Is this contractor going to remove the paint first? Typically, polyurethane (urethane for short) coatings are applied over epoxy and not directly to bare concrete. It does not bond as well to bare concrete, though Sherwin Williams does have some product that will. Polyurethane is also a very thin coating. A five year warranty would be about right for such a job, though it will not be nearly as long lasting or durable as a properly installed epoxy or polyurea polyaspartic garage floor coating system as you read about here.
I am not sure how to tell if paint or resinous coating. Its gray and not shiny and was what contractors put when I bought it 20 years ago. Its probably resinous coating. How can I be sure?
One way to tell for sure, Doreen, is to pour a few ounces of acetone out on the floor. Let it sit for a couple of minutes and then scrub it hard with a rag. If the surface softens and bleeds onto the rag, then it’s paint. If all it does is discolor a little bit yet stays hard and intact, then it’s a coating.
I am planning to do a two car garage residential located in the Pa. area. We will grind than aid wash, then colored base coat and colored micro chips in a heavy broadcast. Two questions: My garage is insulated and heated (in the wall electric unit with fan). Any concerns with temperature if I check the floor temperature? And after reading your info. I am think of using polyurea-polyaspartic top coating over the epoxy. Is that a good choice?
Thanks!
Hi Larry. The polyurea polyaspartic clear top coat is an excellent choice and one that many commercial installers use today. They sometimes refer to that type of system as a hybrid coating. We have an article here about applying coatings in lower temperatures. The most important part is the actual floor temperatures. Some vendors have accelerators or special mixes for epoxy that is being applied in cooler temps as well. Roll ON Rock is an example of that and ArmorPoxy is another company that supplies epoxy for cooler weather. You would need to give them a call.
I plan on hiring a company that will do epoxy primer 100% solids, full coverage paint chips and polyaspartic clear coat on top. They plan on using products from FloRock. I’m wondering if it is good system. Their ANSI spex are available on line on their website.
Hello Paul. Yes, that is a very good system. FloRock makes great commercial grade materials.
I live in the Philadelphia area. Can you suggest a good garage floor company?
Hello Anna. We would love to help you out with that, but we don’t have a listing for recommended contractors. However, we do have an article here that can help with choosing a floor coating contractor or company.
Thank you!
My contractor is going to finish my garage floor. After sanding the cement floor he will use an epoxy coat and add the plastic flakes completely coating the surface. After that dries he can put either a polyaspartic coating down or a polyurethane coating as a topcoat. He thinks the polyurethane is more resistant to tire staining but will do either for me. He has more recent experience with the polyaspartic but had done both. Cost for me is the same. What is your view on this?
Honestly, it depends on the quality of the product, Alan. Like most coatings, there are lower quality and higher quality products of each. What is the percentage of solids for the epoxy he wants to put down? Do you have any brand names and descriptions of the polyurethane and polyurea? Polyurea coatings are thicker than polyurethane. Would he be putting down two coats of polyurethane vs one coat of polyurea?
Shea – Thanks for responding. For the top coat, the polyaspartic coating is Sherwin williams General Polymers 4850. one coat. The polyurethane is H&C Pro Series ClearProtect Clear Sealer – one coat. What are your thoughts?
Hi Alan. I’m assuming they would be offering the solvent based polyurethane and not the water-based. That said, after reviewing the data sheets the General Polymers 4850 is a much better product. It has a better abrasion resistance rating and provides a single coat that is twice as thick. It will also provide better protection against tire stains though there is never a guarantee that tires won’t stain. The key is to watch for tire marks where you park and don’t let them accumulate over time before attempting to clean them. Lastly, make sure they are using a high solids epoxy and not the low solids H&C epoxy like this one here.
Thanks for your guidance. I will do further checking on the epoxy base coat being used
Shea – Further to my question on garage floors, the base epoxy being used is General Polymers 3746 High Performance Epoxy. It is 99% solids. Will this be suitable? Thanks in advance.
That is a very good epoxy, Alan. The only question we would have would be if your contractor is using an epoxy primer. It’s not mandatory, but most all professional floor coating contractors use an epoxy primer for the following reasons.
Hi shea,
April 2019 and I have new garage. I am looking for a garage surface that I can hose out, isn’t slip resistant and easy to clean (I have a 73 jeep that leaks too much). Do you recommend epoxy or the more expensive polurea? Based on your article above it doesn’t seem like polyuria is wort the added expense.
Hello Charles. If you are going to hire a floor coating contractor, then the main advantage of a commercial quality polyurea polyaspartic garage floor coating is going to be the short one day installation. You also have the advantage of a U.V. stable coating (color will not amber) if you are not opting for full color flake coverage. If you don’t mind waiting a few days, then you can have a multi-coat epoxy system installed that will perform just as well, if not better, for less money. A good epoxy system is going to provide a thicker build and will employ a high performance clear coat such as polyurea, polyaspartic, or polyurethane, depending on the contractor. Either way, an anti-slip additive can be applied to the final clear coat to provide traction in wet environments.
Hi Shea. I’d like to get your opinion on which route I should go. I received two estimates for a 1,000 square foot garage. The moisture measured at 3.5 throughout the majority of the floor with one area coming in at 5. The first company said they will shot blast and diamond grind, then do 2 coats of epoxy with color chips in each coat, followed by a clear coat of polyaspartic. All of the joints/saw cuts would be filled so the entire floor is smooth. The cost is $6,000 and they offer a 2 year warranty on parts and labor. The other company would grind the floor, put on a moisture barrier where it was 5, and then use the Penntek polyurea coating with flakes. They would leave the joints/saw cuts. The cost is $7,000 and they offer a 15 year warranty on parts and labor. Which one seems like a better choice? Thanks!
Hello Ronnie. Any slab that produces more than 3 lbs of moisture flow per 1000 square feet per 24 hours is a concern when it comes to coatings. Many coatings will not tolerate moisture higher than that for a long period. Is the slab below grade? Have you sourced the moisture issue for a possible solution to reduce it? The second company is obviously addressing the issue with a moisture vapor barrier blocking primer in the area that measured 5 lbs. I looked up the data sheets for their polyurea, but it did not state what the moisture tolerance was for it. I’m assuming it’s greater than 3.5 lbs, but I would ask them first. If so, then that is the company we would recommend. Moisture blocking primers are pricey and explains the higher price point. The first company is not addressing the moisture issue and is most likely counting on it holding past the two year warranty period. It doesn’t make senses to apply color flakes to the first coat and then cover them up with a second coat of epoxy and then flake again either.
The slab isn’t below grade. There was only a small area near the 16ft garage door opening that measured at 5lbs. Would applying the moisture blocking primer be a long term solution? If I remember correctly, I believe their polyurea could withstand up to 5lbs. Do you think it’s better to fill in the contraction joints and saw cuts to be a smooth finish or leave the grooves? Thanks for all of the information!
Just make sure that water is draining away from that area, Ronnie. Yes, the moisture blocking primer provides for a permanent solution that will not allow the coating to peel from the concrete due to the high moisture content. Filling in contraction joints is mostly for cosmetics. The only functional purpose would be to provide for a smooth surface for toolbox wheels, jacks, creepers, or other rolling objects that might get hung up on wide contraction joints. Saw cut joints don’t create those issues. The only consideration with filling the joints is that you do run a very small risk of the coating cracking over the joints over a period of time if the slab settles.
I was just told that they test the moisture the day of install, so hopefully there will be no issues. I heard that polyurea is very slippery when wet. The owner said sand is added, as well as the chips put down make the surface a little uneven. Is this enough to prevent slipping? Thanks!
One of the inherent problems when testing a slab that is known for having moisture, Ronnie, is that the readings can be lower during the drier time of the year and higher during the wetter season. I’m assuming the chips are applied to full refusal. When done in this manner, it does leave a texture or slight bumpyness to the surface (not unusual). This texture can aid some in traction, but it’s not considered non-slip by any means. When you say they are adding sand, do you mean a polymer bead like this type of additive? If so, that is applied in the final clear coat and will do a much better job in providing traction when it’s wet. You don’t want to use sand in a coating since it is not clear in nature and will be visible.
It is “silica sand,” which is added to clear coat. Is that the same as the ground polymer grit from the link you suggested and is it a safety hazard not having a non-slip additive? What should I specifically ask that they add to the clear coat?
Hi Ronnie. No, it’s not the same as the polymer grit. Silica sand is more transparent than regular sand, but you will still be able to see it and it will knock down the gloss more than the polymer grit. We’ve never been a fan of using sand for residential applications. I would ask them to show you a sample of what it looks like in the clear so you know what to expect. You may want to inquire why they don’t use the ground polymers. They are available in 3 different sizes – course, fine, and ultra fine. Fine is the standard choice for a polyurea.
Hi Shea,
I have a choice to make as the coating will be done today. The polyurea/polyaspartic floor will be fully flaked. The company said they can either add fine silica to the top coat or leave it as is (I know you don’t said silica isn’t the best choice for anti-slip). Which is the better route?
Hello Ronnie. Polyaspartic can be very slippery when wet. A full flake floor helps to give shoes grip since the surface will be slightly textured from the flakes, but it’s not a replacement for anti-slip. If you live in a climate that gets its fair share of moisture (rain, snow, etc), then you may want to opt for the silica sand if you are concerned about slipping. If you live in a dry climate, then many people get by without it.
The garage floor was completed today and looks really sharp. My only concern is that the polyurea coat and flakes were applied yesterday (fully flaked). It was supposed to dry for 3 hours and then the leftover flakes blown away and scraped. The crew didn’t come back until this morning to do that. Therefore, the garage door was open for 11 hours yesterday before closing at night for 9 hours and there looked to be a little moisture (dew) on it yet this morning. Could there be an issue if moisture was under the clear coat or would that eventually dry, as well? What’s the safest amount of time before driving on and pushing a heavy refrigerator/freezer over the coating? Thanks for providing your expertise!
Hello Ronnie. Great to hear it! If there was moisture on the floor the polyurea would have reacted adversely to it and been noticeable. You usually want to wait 24 hours before moving heavy objects and driving on it unless the installers notified you otherwise.
Hello,
I recently had a contractor install a polyurea floor system in my condo. I am very dissatisfied for many reasons, but I am hoping that someone can tell me – is it common to have roller/squeegee marks and puddling of material in this type of a floor system. Contractor states it’s because the floor isn’t level (it’s an old factory – the floor isn’t level).
I had someone do an epoxy floor two years ago and it just looks like a coating on the concrete. Was I wrong to expect the same type of look out of polyurea, or is this guy full of crap?
So far he has offered to come back and put another top coat on, but I’m worried that will just bury the original issues in another layer of material that I’ll eventually have to pay someone else to grind off.
Any ideas?
Hello Rick. It’s hard to evaluate without some pictures or seeing it in person. In general though and depending on the polyurea, it is either rolled on out of a paint tray or it is poured on to the concrete surface and spread with a squeegee and then rolled. You shouldn’t see squeegee marks and have puddling, even if the floor a slight slope. If the puddling and marks are in the top coat, it can be fixed by sanding the surface down to remove the marks and excess material and then applying a new top coat.
Very informative blog. But also very confusing to a novice, like myself, who is thinking of improving his 500 sq ft garage floor. The house is only a year old, and in a new community in Charlotte – all of the local community chatter has been exclusively about ‘epoxy’ floors. Now I guess we have the standard epoxy, the polyu, the polya, and hybrid combinations. Wow.
I don’t plan to do mechanical repairs etc so the BIG ISSUE for me is longevity. I do not want to replace the floor every 3, 5, or even 7 years. What are my options?
p.s. garage door does have windows so not sure if UV is an issue
Hi Ed. Yes, we admit that concrete garage floor coatings can get confusing, especially when companies claim one is better than the other and etc. Before I answer your question, is this something you want to do yourself or are you looking to hire a quality garage floor coating company?
I am not doing it myself. Thanks.
Thanks Ed. More garage floor coating companies are pushing the polyurea polyaspartic garage floor coatings since they can install them in one day. It cuts down on labor costs for the company and customers like the fact that items in the garage don’t have to stay out overnight. As we state in the article, they are generally an average of $2 per square foot higher in cost than some of the more traditional coatings due to the cost of materials. We prefer an epoxy base coat because it takes longer to cure and they are generally thicker. This gives the coating more time to seep into the concrete to get a good bite. This does not mean that polyurea polyaspartic coatings are not good in this regard. They just are not as good as epoxy. A hybrid system consisting of an epoxy base color coat and polyurea or polyaspartic top coat is becoming more common as well. If you are going with a full flake floor, a polyurea or polyaspartic clear coat will prevent any chance of ambering (yellow tint). Any of these combinations will last a long time if they are installed by a reputable garage floor coating company. You can expect between 10-20 years of good life depending on the system installed. This is based on how you plan to use the garage. We have a good article here on how to choose a garage floor coating contractor, which includes questions to ask and how to compare product. What we don’t care for are companies that say a polyurea polyaspartic system is the best ever. These are companies that only carry the one product and tell people that to discourage them from looking elsewhere. Just let me know if you have any more questions.
Hi Shea, my cement garage floor is deteriorating. It’s been exposed to salt from cars over the years. It puts out dust and has a few cracks. The second issue is water pools in a 5′ diameter area near the front of the garage in the winter. I read your recommendation for epoxy base for better bonding to cement. Will an epoxy base bond well to the cement after the cement floor is diamond ground and prepared? Also can the epoxy fill or level the spot where water is pooling? thanks, John
Hello John. When you state “epoxy base”, do you mean an epoxy/sand slurry? If so, such repairs are stronger than concrete and are excellent at filling pitted and spalled areas. As for the pooling, if the depth of the water is less than 1/4″, then a sand slurry does not work as well. A 100% epoxy without the sand is a better fix. The epoxy will not shrink and can be squeegeed over the low spot. Of course it will require grinding after these repairs to smooth all transitions and to prep the repairs for a coating if that is the plan.
Hi shea, my concrete porch steps are all cracked and in need of serious repair. I contacted a couple of contractors and some recommend Graniflex and others told me to stay away and that it’s not durable. I’m just wondering if you have any thoughts about Graniflex I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
Hi Tomas. No, we haven’t had any experience with Graniflex. However, we don’t see why it would not hold up, especially to just foot traffic. Most of these products are stronger than the concrete once they cure.
I am getting my residential garage floor coated by Garage Zone, and it is a hybrid Epoxy/Polyurea system. However, my concern is that I had spilled several liters of Thompson’s Timber Oil last year on my garage floor when I was oiling wood patio furniture, that has absorbed into my concrete. The contractor told me that it’s not an issue, and he will grind the floors anyway. Not sure if grinding the floors will do anything for this.
Is this going to be an issue with the epoxy base not being able to bond well to the concrete? Also, I have ceramic tile baseboard in my garage that will be coated as well. It has a glossy and smooth texture (that I plan on scuff sanding)…but is this also a bad idea to coat in epoxy/polyurea? The contractor seems pretty confident that it will have zero problems.
Hi Zero. Grinding does two things. The first is that it removes a very thin upper layer of concrete that tends to create a seal from products such as the one that was spilled on the floor. Second, it creates a profile that allows the coating to mechanically bond to the surface. That doesn’t mean grinding solves all problems though. There are special epoxy primers that are designed to bond to oily floors and they work very well. They may be planning to use something like that if necessary for that area. I would ask what their plans are for the area if grinding alone does not allow penetration of the coating. Also, you can ask to have a guarantee written into the contract that the area will not peel.
Coating the ceramic tiles is fine as long as they are roughed up first as you plan. You are not walking or driving on the tiles so you don’t need as strong of a bond like you would to the concrete.
Thanks for the reply.
I just spoke with the contractor, and he actually is NOT applying an epoxy base coat at all.
It’s BOTH a polyurea base coat along with a polyurea top coat (after they apply the flakes). They are giving me a guarantee of 20 years of no peeling, and he does this for outdoor porches as well.
Does a polyurea base coat on a grinded garage floor (that had a deep oil spill on it) seem like a good idea?
Or does it make sense to just go with an epoxy base instead?
I guess I should draft up a contract and have him sign it.
Hi Zero. A lot of flooring companies are going to these type of systems because they can be installed in a day. They can get more jobs done in a week which is good for their bottom line and customers like the fact that they are not without their garage for a few days or so. It’s OK to use polyurea for the base providing the concrete is properly prepped and those areas accept the coating. A good contractor with a lot of experience generally knows what needs to be done since it’s not uncommon to tackle issues such as yours. A 20 year warranty against peeling is fantastic as long as the company is still around then. That is why it’s important to check how long they have been in business. I would just have them add some type of wording that the peeling includes the area with the spill.
Hi Shea…I have efflorescence on my garage floor apparently caused by water/moisture from under the slab after heavy rains. I (and several “experts”) have been unable to find the source of the water/moisture. The efflorescence still comes, but much less this year than in the past when it had caused some cracking and chipping of the top layer of cement. Now that the efflorescence has become much less, I would like to have my garage floor coated. One contractor uses “commercial grade” polyurea with a primer coat first (I think the primer is also polyurea, but not sure of that. The the coating on the color samples (with various background and chip colors) seemed very thin and the contractor said that’s what it will be like on the floor. The other contractor uses an epoxy coating. The prices are similar. Both contractors grind the cement before applying the product. Both say they’ve coated floors which had efflorescence issues and haven’t had problems of bubbling or pealing over the years. Since there will likely still be some efflorescence in the future, which coating would be best? or should I not coat the floor? I’ve read that efflorescence that comes up when a garage floor is coated can cause pressure that bubbles the coating. Thanks in advance for your advice!
Hello Tom. We would not recommend a coating until calcium chloride moisture tests have been conducted during the wettest months. This will give you more accurate results to determine how much moisture you have. These should be placed in areas where the efflorescence has occurred. Coatings can tolerate a small amount of moisture, approximately 3 lbs/24hr/1000 ft2. Any more than this and they will delaminate in the areas where moisture is present. There are special moisture vapor barrier epoxy primers that can be used if the moisture content is higher. However, these are more expensive (approx. $200 per 125 square feet) and they require an aggressive grind of the concrete for prep. Also, ask these contractors about their warranties in regards to moisture. If they don’t warranty for it, then they should be giving you a warning about applying a coating if they know about the efflorescence issue. If they are not warning you, then I suggest finding a more reputable floor coating contractor.
Hi Shea! Thanks…Although I love the look of both polyurea and epoxy coatings, perhaps I should consider using G-Floor rolls???
G-Floor rolls are an easy option that provides good protection, but they will trap moisture underneath. You may want to consider interlocking garage floor tiles. These allow air circulation and moisture vapor can’t be trapped. Plus, they are easy to install and you can design your own custom look.
Thanks so much Shae. I will definitely look into the tiles for the reasons you gave. Your site with its many informative articles is extremely helpful as are your personal answers to questions.
Just today, I became aware of the polyurea concrete coatings. We have been considering coating our patio slab which faces East in Southern Calif. The company’s spec sheet indicates using “Penntek’s 100% solid self-priming polyurea basecoat”. What I’m getting from the previous umpteen Q’s & A’s, is you recommend a pure epoxy basecoat. Is this correct or am I just too inundated with info?
Hello Hal. For garage floors, it’s always recommended to apply an epoxy primer coat before most high solids color base coats. Penntek even does this with most of their systems. However, unless you plan on turning your patio into a parking lot that will see hot tires and floor jacks, primers are not always necessary. Additionally, some polyureas have good penetration abilities. According to Penntek’s data sheets, their PB 200 polyurea (assuming that is what you are referring to) can be used as a primer coat and is recommended by them for some coating systems that do not require industrial protection. One thing we do recommend is the use of an anti-slip additive in the final coat of your patio. Coatings outdoors can get very slippery when wet.