One garage flooring option that has created quite a buzz in the industry the last few years is polyurea/polyaspartic floor coatings. This relatively new coating has become the latest favorite for installers as an alternative to epoxy. It has created some confusion for home owners as well. The fast curing ability of this system is being billed as the “Holy Grail” of floor coatings and is advertised as the best of everything that a coating can do.
So if it’s not an epoxy, what is it exactly and why would you want it on your garage floor? Let’s unravel the confusion about polyurea and polyaspartic floor coatings and see why many garage flooring companies are pushing this new product.
What are Polyurea and Polyaspartic Coatings
Without getting too technical, Polyurea is a subgroup of polyurethane. It is formed when isocyanates react with water or polyetheramines to create a urea linkage. Like epoxy, it is a 2-part component that mixes resin with a catalyst to cause the curing reaction that makes the material hard.
It has low to no VOC’s and has an elongation rate that exceeds 300%, making it much more flexible than epoxy. It is commonly used for spray-on bed liners, interior pipe coating, liquid containment lining and many other industrial applications such as tunnel coatings and fillers for joints. Because of its extremely fast cure rate (less than 5 seconds and fully hard in less than 5 minutes), most polyureas require specialized equipment for application.
Polyaspartic is a type of aliphatic polyurea. To quote Bayer Material Science:
“By definition, a polyaspartic is an aliphatic polyurea because it is the reaction of an aliphatic polyisocyanate with a polyaspartic ester – which is an aliphatic diamine”.
What polyaspartics do is conquer the difficulties of the extremely fast cure rate of polyurea in order to apply the coating in a more traditional manner, with a longer pot life of 5 to 120 minutes depending on the formulation.
So in essence, all polyaspartics are a polyurea, but not all polyureas are a polyaspartic. So to lessen the confusion, this means that when you see a garage floor coating or kit being advertised as a polyurea, or a polyurea polyaspartic, it is really some formulation of a polyaspartic coating.
Benefits of Polyaspartic Coatings
Now that we’ve covered these eye numbing explanations, what does it mean for you? The two biggest advantages of a polyaspartic or polyurea garage floor coating are temperature and time.
Unlike epoxy, a polyaspartic coating can be applied in temperatures as low as -30F to as high as 140F depending on the formulation. That means you don’t have to wait till spring or summer to coat your garage floor if you live in a colder climate.
Typical polyurea and polyaspartic floor coatings are applied in just two coats; the first being both the primer and color coat and the second being the clear coat. Because of their fast cure rates, a complete flooring system can be installed in one day and returned to service the next. This means that you won’t have to do without your garage for 3-4 days like you would for a full epoxy system.
There are many other benefits to a polyurea/polyaspartic floor coating as well. These include:
- 100% U.V. stability – they will never yellow.
- Crystal clear finish that won’t blush from moisture in the concrete.
- Similar high abrasion and scratch resistance to polyurethane.
- High tolerance to heat, meaning hot tire pick up is a non-issue.
- High film build-up that can be controlled by the applicator.
- High gloss finish
- High solids content with little to no VOC’s in most applications.
- High stain and chemical resistance. This includes salts for winter climates.
- Good flexibility for higher impact resistance.
- Excellent wetting characteristics allowing for good penetration into the concrete for a strong bond.
- Decreased chance of bubbles from outgassing due to the faster cure rate.
Costs and Installation Factors
Though a polyaspartic or polyurea flooring system does have some great benefits, there are some other factors to consider before you decide if this is the best system for you.
The first is cost. To have it professionally installed will cost an average of $2 to $3 more per square foot than an equivalent epoxy and polyurethane system.
It is also not the most user friendly “do it yourself” installation and requires a minimum of two people to apply. Depending on the formulation of the polyaspartic, the average pot life is only 20 to 25 minutes. This can be very intimidating if you haven’t done a floor coating before. Also, the materials alone can cost almost twice as much as epoxy.
A good example by Advacoat on how a polyaspartic floor coating is installed
One thing to keep in mind is that like epoxy, not all polyaspartics are created equal. Some of the DIY kits that are being offered are not of the same quality as the more professional versions. So shop around and compare if you want to install a garage floor coating yourself. The formulations are different and come with a lower solids content in order to lengthen the pot life. Grinding the concrete is also the recommended floor prep.
While polyurea / polyaspartic coatings are not affected by water or humidity when fully cured, humidity during installation can cause the coating to cure much more rapidly and should be monitored before installation.
***Update***
There are now newer single-part polyurea garage floor coatings available that are extremely easy to apply. They have and unlimited pot life and excellent protection. Learn about single-part polyurea here.
Another consideration is that if you are a regular garage mechanic, polyaspartics don’t stand up as well to battery acids like epoxy and polyurethane does. They also can be very slippery when wet. If you are not applying full paint chips to add texture, it is advisable to add a slip resistant aggregate into the top coat to increase the anti-slip properties of the coating.
One of the biggest reasons that professional installers are offering polyaspartic floor coatings is to sell the benefit of being without your garage for only a day. A good installer can prep your concrete and install your coating in as little as 6 – 8 hours. You can be moving your belongings back into the garage before the day is done and park your car in it the next. This can be a huge advantage for people who can’t be without their garage for 3 or 4 days.
If you need to have a garage floor coating installed in less than ideal temperatures or need the advantage of being without your garage for only a day, then a professionally installed polyurea or polyaspartic floor coating may be just what you need. It is a great garage flooring option if the cost is in the budget.
Hi Shea,
I am looking to have my garage floor finished. I live in Minnesota. I have talked to two contractors. One has a Polyurea + Chips + Polyurea process where the other has an Epoxy + Chips + two coats of Polyurea top coats. The latter says the epoxy bonds and seals better on concrete as a base coat than Polyurea but adding the two layers of Polyurea topcoat provides the superior protection needed. The cost between the two contractors was not significantly different.
With the prep processes being a diamond grind for both, what one would you think would provide the best results over time?
Thanks,
Steve
Hi Steve. You ask a great question. The latter is the best way to go between the two choices. As stated, epoxy will bond better with the concrete since it takes a little longer to cure. The clear coat is the wear coat. So two coats of polyurea is excellent for a floor with color flakes – particularly if you opt for a full flake floor.
I have heard that the polyurea basecoat is better than epoxy. Have I heard incorrectly? How can I get to the bottom of actual facts of an epoxy primer versus a polyurea primer being the better choice? Thanks for your help.
Hello CC. Are you asking about base coats (polyurea vs epoxy) or are you asking about the appropriate primers for base coats? These are actually two completely different things. What is it exactly that you want to accomplish?
I guess then I’m not sure. I’m being told that a polyurea base coat (then flakes – then polyaspartic top coat) is better than an epoxy base (then flakes – then polyaspartic top coat).
But then I read your article that says an epoxy primer, then an epoxy base, then flakes, then polyaspartic top coat is the best.
Now I’m confused! I want the top end, high end, best, long lasting, durable solution in my garage (and for that matter then concrete in my basement, also will be doing outside sidewalk/porch and pool deck).
This one contractor is telling me polyurea (that they roll and brush on) is best for basecoat. They don’t say anything about primer – just polyurea base, flakes, then polyaspartic top. They also say they won’t offer any kind of epoxy at any level because it is “widely known” that epoxy is inferior and would never have a long warranty (lifetime) against chipping and peeling.
Which is best?
Thanks!
Ugh… It’s contractors like these that create confusion when potential customers are trying to figure out what is best for them. It is not “widely known” that any type of epoxy is inferior to polyurea and/or polyaspartic coatings. It is a very ignorant statement or they are just trying to sell you (quite poorly) on the only system of coatings they use. High solids and more commonly, 100% solids epoxy, is widely used in commercial applications for such things as warehouse floors, automotive dealerships, restaurant kitchens, and etc. It is a very high build (thick) coating that provides many performance characteristics depending on how the floor will be used. It is only used indoors (not direct sunlight) due to the fact that it is not U.V. stable.
Many concrete coating installers are using polyurea and/or polyaspartic coatings these days because they can get them installed in one day. This saves money on labor and allows them to do more jobs in a given week. Most are good quality coating systems that provides outstanding abrasion and chemical resistance as well as U.V. resistance. They can also be applied outdoors. If they are a reputable contractor with a good warranty, these types of coatings can perform very well, but they are not the best.
Ultimately, the top coat is what determines how well a system will wear, resist scratches, and resist staining. Therefore, a hybrid system that consists of an epoxy primer, 100% solids epoxy, full color flakes, and a polyurea or polyaspartic top coat is going to provide better durability and impact resistance because it is much thicker and adheres better to the concrete. It is also U.V. stable since the epoxy is essentially covered by the full color flakes. Epoxy takes longer to cure and as a result, it seeps deeper into the concrete pores to get the best mechanical bite for adhesion. That is where the epoxy primer comes into play. Coatings that cure within a couple hours to bare concrete (polyaspartic) will not get the same adhesion. Garage floor coating contractors that offer a variety of products will always quote such a hybrid system as the best. Hybrid systems can be as much a 35-40 mils thick, whereas the standard two coat polyurea polyaspartic floors are 15-20 mils thick. Keep in mind that such a hybrid system can be overkill if all you do is park your cars in the garage and do light maintenance work.
Also, always ask to see the data sheets on the product a contractor plans to use as well. This is a way to compare product from one contractor to another. This article here also helps with choosing a floor coating contractor. Hopefully we cleared some things up and didn’t create more confusion for you!
Thanks for the detailed response about the hybrid system. You know your stuff, as you are correct: this contractor only provides the one system (polyurea base, flakes, and polyaspartic top).
However, they also claimed that epoxy is more susceptible to any moisture that might come up from bottom through concrete (causing bond failure); whereas, polyurea actually welcomes the moisture as a catalyst that helps the curing process.
Also, they claimed the polyurea is much more flexible than epoxy, so any shift in concrete from earth movement, moisture expansion, freezing, and just the expanding and contracting of surfaces with temperature changes allow polyurea to hold up with much more flexible properties. They said the epoxy is more brittle; therefore, will develop cracking more easily. I was told expect a 3-5 year life before recoat needed on a 100% solid epoxy base vs likely never needed again with a polyurea base due to superior strength and flexibility.
Are they just selling me a bill of goods or what?
Yikes… many polyureas are moisture cured. This means that the catalyst for the curing process is moisture in the air – not the ground. The more moisture in the air, the faster they cure and vice versa. If ground moisture is introduced during the curing process the polyurea will react in a negative manner. Special formulations of epoxy are actually used as moisture vapor barrier blockers for concrete – not polyurea. Just do a google search for “concrete coating moisture block” and you will see all the epoxy products and not polyurea. Epoxy bonds better with concrete and is why special blends are used to prevent bond failure in concrete with high moisture content.
Yes, polyurea and polyaspartics are more flexible than epoxy (relatively speaking). This flexibility helps to prevent scratches (hard epoxy scratches easier) and is one of the reasons why it makes for such a good top coat. Special blends of polyurea are good to fill contraction joints before a coating is applied as well. However, if your concrete actually develops a serious crack, a polyurea coating is not going to hide it. Epoxy coatings are used all over the world in climates with large temperature swings. We have yet to see an epoxy floor coating that suffered to concrete expansion and contraction.
The part of a floor coating that would require a recoat as it wears (if it’s needed) is the TOPCOAT – not the base coat. You would have to wear through the polyurea/polyapartic top coat on a hybrid system in order to get to the 100% solids epoxy base coat to begin with. If you are using the same top coat, how would it be possible for the epoxy base to be exposed and not the polyurea base? What they are stating makes no sense at all. Unfortunately, it sounds like the more they speak the more they reveal their ignorance. They obviously know just enough to tout the benefits of the one polyurea polyaspartic coating system they install without knowing the science behind it and even less about other coatings. How long have they been in business?
As I stated, the type of system they install (assuming it’s good product) is a good system, but it’s not the best as they suggest. However, it does quite well for the average residential garage.
I’m curious about product qualifications, I need a product that has ease of application, versatility with regard to application environment, as well as the ability to conform to industry requisites such as ansi etc. Is there a single part polyurea or polyaspartic product that will fit this criteria?
Hi Brian. We suggest contacting both Legacy Industrial and ArmorPoxy and ask them about the ansi specs. They both provide single-part polyureas to commercial floor coating contractors and installers that are required to meet certain specification. In fact, the ArmorPoxy clear single-part polyurea was used inside the main floor of the 9/11 Memorial in New York.
I have had two estimates for garage floor coating. The first estimate was for a polyurea coating and the second one was for a polyaspartic coating. What is the upside to either? My understanding is that they are both a polyurea. There is a premium price for the polyaspartic however I can’t seem to find information stating clear benefits. What are the differences? Carol
Hello Carol. The two coatings are similar, however, polyaspartic coatings typically will cure faster and are available in higher solids for a thicker finish. We suggest asking each contractor for the data sheets so that you can compare the differences in performance. Also ask how many coats are going to be applied and what the total thickness of the flooring will be. This article on how to choose floor coating contractors has more information as well.
Hello,
We have just finished building a automobile dealership and are also in the process of renovating another. The new dealership has an epoxy floor in the service garage and I am already noticing that studded snow tires are cutting through and damaging the new finish. I have been told that a polyspartic floor coating would hold up much better to studded snow tires than the epoxy floor. Is that correct? We have not finished the floor yet in our second project and don’t want to make the same mistake. Both dealerships are in the north east of the US.
Hello Rick. Epoxy is common to use as a base color coat since it provides such a thick and hard build. The key, however, it what it is top coated with. Epoxy is rarely the final coat for such circumstances. Yes, a high performance 2-part polyaspartic floor coating will stand up better than epoxy as a final finish. Part of the reason has to do with the fact that it is actually more flexible and less prone to chipping from studs. We recommend that you give ArmorPoxy a call and talk with them. They are a large supplier of concrete coating products in the northeast. They provide product as well as perform installations for many dealerships in your neck of the woods. They can give you the information you need for the correct product based on your needs.