A garage floor sealer sounds simple enough to protect and seal the concrete in your garage or workshop. But what does a sealer do for the concrete and which type should you use? Which sealer is best for your requirements and budget? Options include densifiers, siliconates, oil-repelling sealers, salt-repelling sealers, epoxy, polyurea, acrylics, and more. As you can see, it can become a bit overwhelming.
Don’t fret, it’s not as confusing as it may seem at first. Our goal is to explain the differences in sealers for a garage floor or workshop so that it’s much easier to understand. We will discuss how they work, how they are applied, and the benefits of each. This should help you determine what sealer will be best for your needs.
We include economical sealers that protect the bare concrete for a nice clean look, sealers for working garages and workshop floors, as well as decorative sealers and coatings. That’s right, garage floor coatings are sealers as well.
Penetrating Sealers VS Topical Sealers – What’s the Difference?
There are two distinct categories of garage floor sealers that determine performance, looks, and application requirements. They are penetrating sealers and topical sealers.
Though both types seal the concrete, they look and perform much differently from one another. With so many garage flooring options available, it’s important to get a basic understanding of each.
Penetrating Sealers
Penetrating sealers work by penetrating into the concrete upon application. They react with the minerals in the concrete to form a hard, gel-like molecular barrier in the subsurface. Otherwise known as non-film-forming sealers, they are breathable and do not form a coating on the concrete surface.
As a result, penetrating sealers do not change the look of bare concrete. And because they are non-film forming, they cannot be scratched if you drag a sharp object across the concrete surface. In addition, they will retain the same wet slip resistance of the current concrete surface.
Furthermore, penetrating sealers typically are the most economical sealing solution for a garage floor or workshop and one of the easiest of all garage flooring options to apply.
An important fact about penetrating sealers is that they are not waterproof as some people assume. Nor are they stainproof. This is due to the non-film-forming properties of the sealer.
Though they do a good job of repelling water and resisting automotive fluids, all liquids will eventually penetrate the concrete surface if allowed to sit long enough. How long they sit before penetration is determined by the type of sealer and the porosity of the concrete.
Lastly, liquids such as oil, automotive fluids, and other contaminants can stain if allowed to sit. How much they stain and how easily an oil stain cleans up are determined by the type of penetrating sealer applied and how long the oil or other contaminant was allowed to sit.
When it comes to stain resistance, the goal of a penetrating sealer is to provide enough time for spills and leaks to be cleaned up first before they have a chance to stain. This includes some of the newer oil-repelling sealers the industry has introduced to provide better stain resistance.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers / Coatings
Topical sealers adhere to the concrete surface with only slight penetration. Also known as film-forming sealers, they are more widely known as floor coatings or garage floor coatings. They form a protective layer that is typically non-breathable and can be impermeable depending on the coating used.
Many are 2-part resinous coatings that require mixing before application, though there are exceptions. They chemically cure and create a hard coating that is extremely durable. The thickness, abrasive properties, and chemical resistance of these coating sealers can vary depending on the type and quality of the coating that is used.
Paint and 1-part epoxy paint are not sealers or coatings. Don’t make this mistake! We discuss why here.
Most coatings are also considered decorative. Clear coatings will enhance the look of the garage floor surface. They tend to darken bare concrete, add character, and provide a matte to a glossy finish.
In addition, clear coating sealers are used to protect and highlight the colors of stained or dyed concrete. They make the colors pop with vibrancy and add shine.
Colored coatings completely change the look of the garage floor. Epoxy and polyurea garage floor coatings are great examples. You can opt for a solid color or add multi-colored acrylic flakes with a clear coat to create your own unique color palette.
Unlike penetrating sealers, topical sealers and coatings prevent the bare concrete from being stained by oils, automotive fluids, and chemicals. This is because the coating acts as a sacrificial barrier.
Furthermore, one large advantage of topical sealers over penetrating sealers is that the surface is very easy to keep clean.
Higher-performing coatings can also be extremely stain resistant. Oil, chemicals, salty road brines, and other fluids can sit for much longer periods. All that is required in most cases is wiping up the mess with a rag. A shot of Windex can remove any leftover film residue.
Lastly, many topical sealers and coatings will prevent the penetration of water and liquids into the concrete. This doesn’t necessarily make the entire garage floor waterproof. Exposed cracks and concrete joints can still allow water to seep into the concrete.
Now that we better understand the difference between penetrating garage floor sealers and topical garage floor sealers, let us discuss the various types available and what we can recommend.
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Recommended Penetrating Sealers for Garage Floors
There is a wide range of penetrating sealers for concrete to choose from. Therefore, it can easily become overwhelming if you don’t know what to look for.
There are silane concrete sealers, silicone sealers, siloxane sealers, siliconate sealers, densifiers, oleophobic concrete sealers, and more. Many are hybrids of each. Some are water-based, while others or solvent-based. Many do not work very well for a garage floor.
As a result, we will only discuss those penetrating sealers that we recommend and know to work best for a garage or workshop floor. In addition, we will discuss concrete prep that may be required and sealer application.
Siliconate Sealers
Siliconate sealers are a great choice for homeowners who just want good general protection of their bare concrete at a minimal cost with ease of application. Often considered the “all-purpose” sealer for garage floors and workshops, they are a great value as well.
Compared to other penetrating sealers, their medium-sized molecular structure does not allow the sealant to penetrate too deep. This provides for better coverage rates and more importantly, better protection of the concrete surface.
As a result, they provide good water repellency including repellency against moisture, road salts, and dirt. Siliconate sealers also resist efflorescence and provide good protection against freeze-thaw, which is the leading cause of spalling of concrete.
Learn more: Why Penetrating Siliconate Sealers May Be All You Need
One thing to keep in mind is that siliconate sealers do not repel oil. Though they will buy you some time for cleanup by slowing down penetration into the concrete, a stain can occur if oil is allowed to sit for long. However, the resulting stain will not be nearly as bad as an oil stain on untreated concrete.
As with the majority of penetrating sealers, the application is very easy. For most concrete surfaces, the only preparation required is to clean and degrease. Once the concrete has thoroughly dried, one coat of the sealer is applied using a low-pressure pump-up garden sprayer with a conical spray nozzle.
Densifiers and Densifier Sealers
Densifiers are a type of silicate sealer. They had been used primarily in the process of polishing concrete and for adding strength to newly poured concrete floors. However, with the introduction of easier-to-apply lithium silicate densifiers, they have become more popular for garage, workshop, and warehouse floors.
Densifiers work by reacting with minerals in the concrete to form a very hard substance called calcium silicate hydrate or CSH. The CSH fills many of the empty voids and pores of the concrete at and near the surface. This increases the density, strength, and hardness of the concrete in these areas.
Check the Current Price on our Top Recommended Densifier
In addition, the filling of these voids with CSH reduces concrete dusting. Furthermore, it slows down moisture intrusion from below the slab to help prevent efflorescence and moisture vapor. However, silicate densifiers do not repel water or other liquids.
As a result of their increasing popularity, manufacturers began adding siliconate to densifiers to provide water and liquid-repelling characteristics. This new type of densifier with siliconate sealer added provides the characteristics of a densifier plus, the same protections as a siliconate sealer as well.
Learn more: Why Densifiers are the New Garage Floor Sealer
As with siliconate sealers, densifiers do not repel oil. However, testing has shown that densifiers with siliconate sealer added do a better job at resisting oil stains than a stand-alone siliconate sealer only.
The application is similar to that of a siliconate sealer. However, more importance is emphasized on not letting the densifier puddle. If it does, it’s important to use a paint roller to roll out the excess or use a broom to work it into the concrete.
If allowed to dry with excess sealer on the surface, a white powder will form and require heavy scrubbing to remove.
Oil Repelling Penetrating Sealers
Oil-repelling penetrating sealers are fairly new to the market. They’ve come about due to the constant demand for a better-performing sealer against staining from oil and other automotive fluids for garage floors and workshops.
A unique ingredient of these sealers is the use of fluorocarbons to create an oleophobic barrier. Oleophobic refers to the physical property of a molecule to seemingly repel oil.
Oil will lay flat or even run on a concrete surface treated with typical penetrating sealers. This characteristic does not resist the penetration of oil nearly as well as water which typically beads from being repelled.
However, oil tends to bead somewhat on a concrete surface treated with an oleophobic sealer. This repelling action allows the oil to sit for a longer period with less chance of penetration into the concrete.
This repelling action allows for an easier cleanup of oils and other automotive fluids and less chance of an oil stain. However, this does not mean the concrete can’t be stained. As with all penetrating sealers, oil and other offending contaminants will stain eventually if allowed to sit long enough.
What oil-repelling penetrating concrete sealers do is allow more time for the oil to sit before cleanup. In addition, it can also make the removal of any offending stains easier.
The raw materials used for these sealers are more expensive. As a result, they cost more than typical penetrating sealers. In addition, one popular oil-repelling sealer that is known to work well also requires the application of a densifier first.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Single Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Oil-repelling sealers in most cases are the better choice to use on garage floors and workshops. However, the importance of these characteristics versus cost is something to consider if you are on a budget.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Dual Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Application of these sealers is a bit more involved but still fairly easy. The concrete must be degreased, clean, and dry. Depending on the sealer used, the application can require a wet flood coat using a pump-up sprayer or application via a lambswool pad or microfiber pad.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers and Coatings
The number of options for garage floor coatings and topical sealers is large. There are acrylic coatings and sealers, epoxy, polyurethane, polyurea, and polyaspartics. In addition, there are single-part moisture-cured coatings and 2-part coatings. And most come in a choice of clear or colored.
Furthermore, the application process, performance characteristics, and durability vary greatly. This includes what chemicals, stains, and abuse they can withstand.
As a result, this is an area where research before a purchase is paramount. Marketing campaigns by large corporations such as Rust-Oleum, Behr, QuikRete, H&C, and others have only served to confuse the consumer. This has led to many unhappy or misinformed purchases.
In addition, do not rely on information from home improvement centers. They are not knowledgeable about concrete coatings and they do not carry quality products in their inventory.
The following topical sealer options below are listed from low to high in approximate cost.
Acrylic concrete sealers
Acrylic concrete sealers form a thin protective layer on bare concrete. Most are clear, but some can be tinted for color. Expect 1 – 1.5 mils dry film thickness per coat on average.
They will enhance the look of the garage floor and make the concrete look slightly darker. The floor will attain a somewhat wet and glossy look or you can opt for a less flashy matte finish. Glossy finishes tend to be more durable.
In terms of performance, acrylic sealers will protect the garage floor from water and chloride intrusion. In addition, they provide light to moderate protection against oil, vehicle fluids, hot tire pick-up, and road salts.
Most acrylic sealers are also U.V. stable. This means that they will not turn a yellow tint if exposed to direct sunlight.
Water-based acrylic sealers are the least durable of all concrete coating options and the easiest to scratch. Solvent-based acrylics increase durability, scratch resistance, and chemical resistance from automotive fluids.
For a more durable alternative, we recommend the performance of MMA acrylic sealers. These have longer endurance properties than standard acrylic sealers and can withstand harsher chemicals.
Acrylic sealers perform best with light to moderate traffic. Reapplication may be required once every 18 to 36 months depending on the sealer used.
One DIY advantage of acrylic sealers is that they are fairly easy to apply. The concrete needs to be degreased, cleaned, and dry. Etching of the concrete is typically not required unless the surface is extremely smooth.
You can use either a low-pressure pump-up sprayer or apply it with a paintbrush and rollers out of a tray. The key to a successful application is to apply the coating thin or problems will develop. Typically, two coats are applied for the best protection.
Modified Acrylic Polyurethane Sealers
If you like the look of a clear sealer on bare concrete, then one of the best-performing values is a modified acrylic polyurethane.
This is a somewhat new sealer for garage floors that we feel is going to explode in popularity once the word gets out. It combines high performance and ease of application at a budget price.
Technically, they are a thin, 2-part water-based, high-performance, acrylic-modified, aliphatic polyurethane coating and sealer. Aliphatic means that they are U.V. stable and will not amber. In addition, they are Eco-friendly, and no etching of the concrete is required.
Acrylic-modified polyurethane sealers provide better abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, and stain resistance than most epoxy. They are a true workhorse sealer for garage floors and workshops.
A minimum of two thin coats is required. This will result in a dry film thickness of just under 2 mils. Three coats are recommended for commercial applications. They are one of the few topical sealers that will adhere well to machine-troweled concrete.
Learn More: Our Top Recommended Acrylic Modified Polyurethane
These are best used on smooth concrete with few repairs. Due to their thin nature, they are not recommended on rough garage floor finishes or concrete with numerous repairs. They are not thick enough to provide self-leveling properties such as epoxy or polyurea.
Furthermore, they will only adhere to bare, unsealed concrete and are not compatible as a clear sealer over epoxy or other coatings.
Application requires that the concrete be clean and dry. No etching of the concrete is required. The sealer is best applied using a low-pressure pump-up sprayer with a conical spray nozzle in conjunction with a microfiber application pad or 1/4″ low nap roller.
Epoxy Concrete Sealers
Undisputedly, the most popular sealer is garage floor epoxy. Epoxy is a 2-part thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating. It chemically cures to create polymer structures that are closely cross-linked. This is what gives epoxy its superior strength and durability.
Epoxy is available as a clear coat to bare concrete but is more commonly applied in solid colors. Finishes range from satin for low-budget formulas to a high gloss for commercial-quality epoxy.
The most durable applications are epoxy systems that include a minimum of a color coat, optional decorative color flakes, and a clear coat. Professionally installed garage floor coatings consist of such systems.
Learn more: How to Choose the Best Garage Floor Epoxy System
In addition, epoxy coating sealers are much thicker than acrylics. They can be applied thicker than any other coating available. Depending on the solids content, one coat of epoxy can be applied at 2.5 – 12 mils dry film thickness and higher.
Epoxy sealers can withstand heavy traffic and are abrasion resistant. Furthermore, most are non-breathable and will prevent water and chemical intrusion at the surface. They are resistant to most chemicals, oil, vehicle fluids, road salts, and hot tire pickup.
One disadvantage is that epoxy is not U.V. resistant. If exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight, it can turn a yellow tint (amber) over a period of time.
Single-coat DIY garage floor epoxy kits purchased from local home improvement centers are the least durable epoxy coatings. We explain more in detail here.
Epoxy sealer application is more involved and time-consuming compared to penetrating sealers. However, DIY application is very common. Application is done using paintbrushes and paint rollers.
Proper concrete preparation is essential or the coating will not adhere properly. Etching the concrete is required at the minimum. Grinding the concrete may be preferred for some applications, but it is not mandatory.
In addition, epoxy application is time sensitive. Once the two parts are mixed, you typically have 30 – 40 minutes to get the epoxy applied before it hardens up. Low-quality epoxy allows for more application time. This time limit is dependent on the solids content. The higher the solids content (thicker, higher-performing coatings), the less time you have to apply it.
Moisture Cured Direct to Concrete Polyurethane Sealers
Polyurethane is a high-performance coating with increased benefits over epoxy. Depending on the quality, it is typically more abrasion and scratch resistant than epoxy. It wears longer and is more chemical and stain resistant. And unlike epoxy, most polyurethanes are U.V. stable and will not amber.
Traditional polyurethane coatings are available in 2-part formulas or single-part moisture-cured formulas. Like acrylics, they are applied thinly with an average dry film thickness of 2-2.5 mils.
However, one issue with traditional polyurethane concrete coating sealers is that they do not bond well directly to concrete. Instead, they are used as a U.V. stable colored coating over epoxy or more commonly, as a clear coat over epoxy.
Fortunately, this bonding issue has recently changed with the introduction of newer moisture-cured polyurethanes designed specifically to bond directly to concrete. Moisture-cured coatings are single-part and do not require mixing in a second part to act as a catalyst to start the chemical curing process.
Instead, it uses moisture in the air as the catalyst. The coating is not activated until it is applied to the concrete and exposed to the moisture in the air. As a result, you have a much longer working time to apply the coating as compared to epoxy. This is a nice benefit for DIY installations.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Moisture-Cured Polyurethane
Because these coatings are thin, they typically require a minimum of two color coats. One clear coat is sufficient if applied to bare concrete. However, two are recommended for more durability if it’s a busy working garage or workshop.
This type of coating sealer will not do a good job of hiding irregularities in the concrete due to its thin nature. High solids epoxy is better for that.
Application of direct to concrete moisture-cured polyurethane sealers is varied. The concrete must be clean, degreased, and completely dry throughout.
In addition, most require that the surface be acid etched. However, polyurethanes such as DuraGrade Concrete by Rust Bullet do not require etching in many cases. This can be a huge benefit to DIY installers that do not want to deal with additional concrete prep. Like most coatings, it is applied with paint rollers and brushes.
Polyurea and Polyaspartic floor sealers
Last on the list are the newer polyurea and polyaspartic floor coating sealers. These are a sub-group of polyurethane and have a similar finish to epoxy and polyurethane coated floors.
They are U.V. stable and can provide better protection than polyurethane. They also provide the best resistance against brown tire prints in the coating.
Unlike epoxy and polyurethane, many of these coatings can be applied in extreme temperatures from below freezing to over 100 degrees, depending on the formula.
What makes these coatings popular is their extremely fast return-to-service times. They can be installed on your garage floor in one day and driven on the next. Most polyurea and polyaspartic coatings need to be applied by a professional due to their very short working time. Twenty minutes or less is typical.
There are newer polyurea coating sealers that have been introduced that are much more DIY-friendly. They can provide up to two hours to get the coating applied depending on the polyurea or polyaspartic formula.
Learn more: Why the best DIY Garage Flooring Kits are Single-Part Polyurea
These long application times reduce the common anxiety of getting the coating applied in enough time. As a result, they can be an excellent choice for a DIY application.
We highly recommend the newer single-part polyurea coatings. These are commercial-quality, moisture-cured coatings that will last 10-15 years or more on a garage floor.
Final thoughts
We have a few considerations for you to keep in mind when deciding which garage floor sealer is best for you.
If you have issues with moisture coming up through the concrete, a penetrating garage floor sealer is generally the better choice. Because they are breathable, they will not be affected by moisture vapor. As we discussed, they may also serve to block or reduce moisture coming up from underneath the concrete slab.
Acrylic sealers are breathable and will tolerate low levels of moisture. Resinous topical sealers and coatings such as epoxy, polyurethanes, and polyurea will not allow for moisture transfer. They can peel and even pull small chunks of concrete up with it if moisture gets trapped under the coating. Moisture testing should be conducted if you suspect it may be an issue before applying a topical sealer.
If you use your garage or workshop for metal fabrication and welding, a penetrating sealer may be the better option. Coatings will get damaged if sharp metal objects are dragged across the surface. They will also incur burn marks from welding slag or heavy metal grinding.
Lastly, take the time to evaluate your requirements. Be realistic in terms of what you want a concrete sealer to do for your garage floor or workshop. No penetrating or film-forming topical sealer and coating are perfect. Compromises may need to be made, particularly if budget is a concern.
Matt M says
First off, I appreciate you taking questions. Before I consult a garage floor repair service, I’d like to attempt correcting the problem myself. We recently bought a house that has puddle area (1/8″ water over about 12 s.f.) in the center of the garage. None of the perimeter floor area is as wet. On very humid days here in Vermont the majority of the floor sweats. Most of the water is right around some cracks. The garage is not below grade. Do you feel one of the sealers you mentioned might correct the problem.
Thanks!
Shea says
Hello Matt. If you want to correct this issue yourself, we recommend that you first fill the existing cracks and then apply a product like Bio Vee Seal, as an example. It’s a penetrating sealer and moisture control that doesn’t leave any coating on the surface and actually water proofs the slab. It’s not the only product out there that does this, so you can shop around. That way if you want to apply any type of coating to the surface in the future, you don’t have to worry about removing the moisture control sealer first.
John says
I am having a new garage floor installed today, the old one sank because of poor compaction of soil before it was poured. How soon after the floor is poured do I need to wait before putting sealer or epoxy. I’d like to do this before I reload the garage with all the stuff to be put back.
Shea says
Hello John and thanks for this important question. If you plan to install an epoxy coating on your new floor, you need to wait a minimum of 30 days for it to cure before application. If it is over the standard 4″ thickness for a garage floor, some experts recommend 30 days for each additional inch of concrete there after. If you are not using epoxy and applying some other topical sealer, such as an acrylic hybrid for example, then many can be applied immediately after the pour. The best thing to do is to consult with the manufacturer of the product that you plan to use.
Brad Bennett says
I have a coating of BASF 1315 as a sealer on my concrete garage floor. This is an acrylic polymer used to cure and seal concrete. I would like to add an epoxy or polyurethane covering to this. Is there a problem with adding one or the other of these to this base?
Shea says
Hello Brad, thanks for visiting our site and the question you asked is a good one. Because BASF 1315 is a topical sealer your concrete will need to be ground to remove the sealer before applying any kind of overlay such as epoxy. The epoxy needs to mechanically bond with the pores in the concrete in order to adhere properly. It would just peel right up if you didn’t. Most products such as this state in their Technical Data Sheets that you can not apply any overlays or sealers on top of their product. This is why it would need to be removed first.
Ginger says
My detached garage had 3 feet of water it in after Storm Sandy last year. All of the renovations have been made. Before I move my items back onto the floor I would like to apply some type of coating to the floor. I would prefer a colored coating. The only reason I want to do this is to keep the space cleaner. I live on the River in NJ about 1 mile from the ocean. It is a high humidity area. Is there a specific product you recommend? And is there a specific type of product I should use. Each retailer I speak to gives me different information. I thought an epoxy but am leaning towards a vapor barrier, two coats of flakes with a poly top coat. For 400 sq ft the product alone will be $1000. I want to make sure I am doing the right applications and the price sounds high. It is an industrial product.
Shea says
Hi Ginger, it sounds like you did your homework. Since you are leaning towards a vapor barrier sealer, I’m assuming you have some moisture issues besides what Storm Sandy dumped on your doorstep. The type of system you describe is very effective, durable, and not inexpensive. Properly installed, humidity is not an issue. The product cost that you describe doesn’t sound out of line based on your square footage either. I would recommend that you contact this company that serves your area. They have an excellent reputation, only use top quality products, and the owner is very knowledgeable about garage floor issues for the East Coast in general.
Gwin says
I’m the first owner of a 3 year old home – it was the model, so the garage has never been used. I’d like to seal the floor while it’s still in perfect condition, and from your info believe a penetrating siliconate sealer is best for my needs. Do you recommend any particular brand, or would the container say “siliconate”? I live in Miami FL, so cold temperatures are no problem.
Shea says
Thanks for the good question Gwin. If you visit one of your local home improvement centers or hardware stores, tell them that you would like a siliconate penetrating sealer for your garage that leaves a natural matte finish. Home Depot offers a product called Eagle Natural Seal which has good ratings. It is actually a hybrid that provides the benefits of a variety of penetrating sealers. More and more manufacturers are starting to do this.
mike says
Would the Eagle Natural Seal be suitable for a new concrete slab that will have an automotive lift in it and probably get oil and solvent based products on it or is there a better choice in the siliconate penetrating sealer line that is more oil resistant
Shea says
Good question Mike. The Eagle Natural Seal is a basic hybrid sealer that is inexpensive and works fine for standard garage with little traffic and work. For a working garage with a lift, you would want something better. This product is a good example. Keep in mind that with a penetrating sealer, oils, grease, and caustic chemicals like brake fluid would need to be wiped up fairly quickly. They are not impervious to oils like epoxy sealers.
Jody says
I have painted a bathroom floor with a 2 part epoxy paint. Ialso spread flakes in it. The flakes leave a little bit of a rough texture. Is there a sealer I can put on it to give it a smoother finish for cleaning?
Shea says
Hi Jody and thanks for visiting our site. Yes, you can apply a 2-part epoxy clear or polyurethane top coat over the color coat and flakes. If it has been more than 24 hours since you applied the color coat, you will have to roughen up the surface with 100 grit sand paper and then wipe it down with denatured alcohol before you apply the clear. Just check with the manufacturer of the epoxy product you purchased for further instructions. Just be aware that it will create a smoother finish but will tend to be a bit slippery when wet since you are using it in a bathroom.
john says
Great info, many thanks for the website. I have an indoor garage that has never been sealed, about 40 yrs old. I live in Northeast and it seems salt in the winter is what really beats up the floor. I thankfully do not have any water issues with the area. I am thinking of a polyurethane or epoxy seal, is one better than the other when it comes to combating road salt?
Shea says
Hey John, thanks for the props. Either sealer will do well against road salts. Just keep in mind that polyurethane doesn’t go down well on bare concrete by itself. You would need a coat of epoxy primer or epoxy base coat underneath in order for it to adhere properly.
tony says
I have new garage with concrete floor with fairly smooth surface. It will be used to store my antique car and one side for restoration work. So it will see some tool cabinet rolling , floor jacks and heavy traffic. I live in Orlando fl where is humid weather most of the time. Looking at the epoxy coats but there is so many that it is confusing just to pick one that will do the job right. I have access to home depot products like the rust oleum, lowes and the paint stores specially Sherwin Williams. Which of these brand/products would you recommend for my application?
Thanks
Shea says
Hello Tony. The only RustOleum product from Home Depot worth considering is the EpoxyShield Professional series. It provides a thickness of about 3.5 mils and is a solvent based product with about 40% solids by volume. Lowes carries the brand Epoxy-Coat which is a 100% solids product that is much better. Being 100% solids it is about 9 mils in thickness, doesn’t have any VOC’s to worry about and is made to stand up to a working garage. Sherwin Williams has a product called ArmorSeal that is similar to Epoxy-Coat. A company near you in Winter Gardens called Legacy Industrial, carries 100% solids epoxy as well.
Any 100% solids epoxy is made to stand up to the type of work you perform in your garage. Just remember to perform a moisture test first and that prepping your floor properly beforehand is the most important part. Humidity is only an issue when applying it. Epoxy-Coat and Legacy Industrial have good customer service if you have questions about installation.
Dana says
Hi–thanks for all the info! I am moving into a brand new home in late October. I have never had a color on the concrete, but it intrigues me. What colors are typical?
Shea says
Hello Dana and you are welcome! Typical colors for a concrete coating, dye, or stain are light to medium gray and light to medium beige. These colors are fairly neutral and go well with most garages. Just because they are typical doesn’t mean those are the colors you have to choose however. You can be as creative as you want.
jay says
Hey Shea thank you so much for the great info! More helpful than any other site I’ve found. I built my house about 6 years ago and soon after put down a two part epoxy paint that held up well. It finally started showing its age this year so I just cleaned it and put on a one part paint right on top. Two months later it still looks great with very light use. With any heavier use like bringing a 1000# zero turn on it the paint seems to come up just where the wheels sit. Is there a clear heavy sealer that I could put over it to protect it or do you recommend starting fresh with a different product. If I do start fresh do I need to remove the old product? I typically use my garage just to hold my toys but I want the floor to look great, shiny and hold up as long as possible. Any help would be great. Thanks jay from New Hampshire
Shea says
Hello Jay, I’m glad you’ve found our site useful. The main reason you are having problems with the new layer of what I am assuming is 1-part epoxy paint, is that the surface of the original 2-part epoxy needed to be roughed up by sanding it with about 80 grit paper in order for the new epoxy paint to adhere properly. You can put a new layer of 2-part color or clear epoxy on the original surface, but you will need to remove the new paint you just put on.
The easiest way would be to use a floor grinder like the one in this article. It will work quickly. Just run it long enough to remove the new paint and scuff up the old coating. Once done, clean the floor and do a final wipe with denatured alcohol before you put on the new 2-part epoxy coating.
Dave says
I have an older heated garage floor I don’t know what the existing paint is ether oil based or laytex, what product should I use for the floor? Acrylic or epoxy from rustoleum.
Shea says
Hello Dave. If you plan on painting over the existing floor paint, then you will want to use the acrylic since it can be used over existing paint. Check with the manufacturer for compatibility. If you want to use the Rust-Oleum 2-part epoxy, then you will need to remove the old paint from the floor first in order to prep the concrete properly. 2-part epoxies are designed to mechanically bond with concrete and chemically bond with each other. They won’t adhere to acrylic or oil based paints.
ket says
Hi. I am going to be putting a clear over an unfinished basement floor. i like the look of polyurethane but am concerned about adhesion. if i put an epoxy down first how long should i wait to top coat with polyurethane? Can i use regular wood floor polyurethane? What about a water based poly?
Shea says
Hello Ket and thanks for the good questions. You are correct about applying polyurethane directly to concrete, it does not adhere well. Put down a primer coat of epoxy (usually primers are water based) and follow up with a coat of polyurethane and you won’t have any adhesion issues provided you have prepped your floor properly (don’t forget to moisture test first in a basement!). The polyurethane should be applied within 12 – 24 hours of the primer coat. Do not use any type of polyurethane wood finish as it is not the same thing.
You raise an excellent question about water based polyurethanes. Up until recently, good aliphatic polyurethane floor coatings were only available as a solvent base. With the advent of all the environmental laws in different states concerning the high VOC’s with solvent based products, manufacturer’s have started producing good quality water based aliphatic polyurethanes. There is an example of one here. Since it is a basement, a water based product is much more preferred so that you won’t have to deal with the VOC’s and the week long smell after application.
ket says
Shea,
thank you for your response. what oil based (or solvent based) polyurethane would you suggest? anything i can buy at a big box store.. they aren’t as good at putting what time a materials are in their products as they use to be. it is difficult to decipher even for an experienced do it yourselfer.
Shea says
Polyurethane concrete floor coatings are mostly solvent based with some companies now offering good water based products. They are never oil based. Unfortunately most big box stores don’t carry them so you need to go the actual floor coating companies that sell these products. The link I provided in the previous comment is one, as well as Legacy Industrial or Sherwin Williams to name a few. Most of these companies have good customer service, all you have to do is give them a call. You may want to read more about epoxy and polyurethane here.
Elizabeth says
Hi. We are looking into cheap and do-it-yourself ways how to stain our concrete slab which will be the first floor of our house (we are building a straw-bale house and are nearing the finishing). We thought we’d like to experiment with copper sulfate to give the cement a blue-green hue, or with iron sulfate for a rust color, before sealing it. I was wondering if you knew if these chemicals could be combined (or rather layered) to give a mix of rust and blue-green colors. I was also wondering if there is a good ecological sealant with low VOC that you would recommend that could then protect the stained concrete. Also do you know if adding the mineral salts (copper and iron sulfate) will weaken the structure of the concrete? Thanks for your advice!
Shea says
Hello Elizabeth, yes you can layer these chemicals to try and achieve the look you are after. Just make sure the first color has dried before adding the second. I would recommend experimenting someplace inconspicuous first to see how the concrete reacts and to learn how to get the effect you want. Stains like this, as well as acid stains, do not affect the structural integrity of the concrete at all. This article talks about how color dyes and stains react with concrete.
As far as sealers go, you will want to use a good water based acrylic sealer since you are not using an acid stain. These have very little if any VOC content. Here is an example of a product that is very good. After you apply the sealer you can apply a layer or two of floor wax that will give the floor a nice shine and act as a buffer to the sealer itself. Many commercial floors for restaurants do this. 100% solids epoxy is the toughest sealer you can use and does not have VOC’s, but your floor will not have the proper profile for it since you are not using an acid stain which opens up the pores of the concrete for the epoxy to adhere to.
Terry H says
Very informative article plus great Q&A. My question is concerning how best to prep our garage floor. We have a basement under our garage floor (spancrete planks w/ 3-4″ poured concrete on top over rubber membrane). It was poured 3 years ago and this year I finished the basement so I want to insure that none of the melting snow seeps to the new basement drywall ceiling. The smooth garage floor still looks good so I had planned to clean it good with Concrete Cleaner since when they poured the floor they sprayed a sealer (I assume something like BASF 1315) over the job that gave it a dark glossy look for a short period but now looks light grey & bare again. When you answered Brad “Because BASF 1315 is a topical sealer your concrete will need to be ground to remove the sealer” can I use a good concrete cleaner/etcher so that the epoxy bonds OK? If so which one is best?
If grinding/sanding is the best option what grit & number of pads would you est. it would take to do 1000 sq. ft.?
Thanks for your help!
Terry
Shea says
Hello Terry and thanks for the question. A concrete etcher or an acid etch works by reacting with the lime in the concrete. It can’t do this if you have a topical sealer on the concrete and is why you need to grind it off to expose the pores for an epoxy coating. A 50/60 grit diamond cup wheel works well on an angle grinder and will do 1000 sf. Another option that works real well is to rent a Diamabrush grinding tool as was written in this article.
I couldn’t help but notice that you had a previous question about penetrating siliconate sealers. You can’t put epoxy over this type of sealer because it tends to close the pores of the concrete close to the surface. If you are worried about snow melt, epoxy will not allow it to penetrate the surface of the concrete.
mike anderson says
Yesterday we poured a concrete floor in an unheated storage barn. Can we apply a sealer to the floor today? What would you reccommend?
Shea says
Hello Mike and thanks for visiting our site. Yes, there are sealers that you can apply after you pour. These types of sealers are usually rolled or sprayed on and cannot be a coating such as epoxy. Just check with the manufacturer or the product directions first. You will be limited on choices if you are trying to pick up something during a weekend. Cure and seal products for concrete can be applied immediately and give the least amount of protection. Most acrylic sealers can be applied and some penetrating sealers. One product that we have found very effective is in the article here, but you wouldn’t be able to get for this weekend.
mike anderson says
thanks.
We’ve opted for a siliconate sealer since protecting the floor from weather, salt, and spills is our only concern.
Mike says
Hi! We are currently building a home in Arizona. We noticed that most of the homes already completed in the subdivision have black tire marks on their concrete driveway. Some have substituted bricks for concrete but these too get the black tire marks. Am I correct from this article that an epoxy clear coat covered by a polyurethane coat on the concrete will prevent most of the black tire marks? Thank you. Mike
Shea says
Hello Mike and thanks for the question. A base epoxy coat with a polyurethane top coat is great protection against tire marks for a garage, but it is not a good combo for a driveway. Epoxy will amber when exposed to the sun for long lengths of time (despite the polyurethane top coat) and it starts to soften up when surface temps approach 140 degrees which can happen in the hot Arizona sun during the summer months. That is why epoxy surfaces are rarely used outdoors. For a driveway a good acrylic or even penetrating sealer really helps cut down on the black tire marks left on the concrete. It also makes it much easier to clean them off the concrete vs bare concrete.
Mike says
Shea, Would several coats of acrylic sealer on the driveway be significantly better than one coat? Thanks again. Mike
Shea says
Good question Mike. I suggest you read this article about acrylic sealers. Acrylic sealers are a common sealer for colored concrete such as driveways. Make sure you choose one that is UV resistant and do not apply on thick. 2 thin coats are much better than one thick one. Acrylic will fracture and form lines if applied too thickly.
Tom C. says
Hi ! Thanks for the GREAT Web Site. I have a brand new home with concrete garage floor. I think that a Siliconate Sealer would best suit my needs. Two questions – Do they make these sealers with any color? And second – do I need to acid etch the floor first if I use this sealer as I was advised to do so if using epoxy. Thanks in advance for your help.
Shea says
Hello Tom and thanks for the kudos. We are not aware of any companies that offer a penetrating sealer with color. Penetrating sealers are non-film forming and would not do a good job of coloring the concrete. You can purchase acrylic and acrylic-epoxy hybrids sealers that are tinted for color however because they are film forming.
As far as etching the concrete goes, follow the instructions of the product you choose. Most penetrating sealers do not require an acid etch, but it does depend on your concrete. If your garage floor does not immediately bead water and slowly absorbs it, then you should be fine. If it does need to be etched, it doesn’t have to be done to the extreme that epoxy requires. Usually a mild etch is all that you will need.
Tom C. says
Thank you for the above answer. One more question – when I go to buy the Eagle Natural Seal, what type of sprayer should I get? I think it should be cheap enough to be disposable. Do I get a garden sprayer like you would use for spraying insect or weed killer? Does it need to have a larger spray opening? Thanks…TOM
Shea says
Yes Tom, a standard garden sprayer with an adjustable tip will work well. You don’t need to purchase anything expensive and you can reuse it if you clean it out afterwards.
Steve S. says
I have an asphalt garage floor. It’s very dark and I’m looking to brighten it up a bit. Are there any pigmented coverings available to asphalt that have the same properties as an epoxy or poly covering? Thanks – Steve
Shea says
Hello Steve, we are not aware of any that have the same properties, but there are colored sealer mixes that you mix in with water based asphalt sealers.
Tom C. says
Good Morning! Well, I acid etched and then used a penetrating seal on my new garage floor. It beads water and I think it has a good seal. However, now I think I would like to make it look a little nicer as the sealer did not change the appearance and the acid etching may have actually made it look a little worse. Will I be able to now put an epoxy paint on top of the sealer? I am thinking of using the Rustoleum brand from the big box store. Will it stick to the sealed floor? Again, thank you in advance for this great web site and your very quick responses.
Shea says
Hello Tom, I’m glad to hear that your sealer is working well and yes, penetrating sealers do not change the appearance of the concrete. If you want to apply a topical sealer such as epoxy, you would have to grind the concrete first to profile the surface and to remove the sealer you just applied. Epoxy needs to penetrate the pores of the concrete in order to bond correctly. If you try to apply it over a sealer it will just peel up. That is why profiling a floor for epoxy coatings is so important.
Jeff says
Shea,
I’m intrigued by the product called Ceramithane. It is a water based acrylic sealer I believe with strong coat to coat adhesion? Designed for wood but also says used for metal and concrete. It has 3 sheens, and I’m wondering if i could tint the matte finish to give some greyish color? i imagine it will never be a solid color like paint but may hide some of the scuffs? We are doing our basement floor, new concrete, unsealed, we have lived about 6 mo there and kids like to ride bikes, ride on toys with plastic wheels and foot traffic, that’s it. Mainly want to control dust but the plumber’s purple solvent spots are unsightly and might be nice to have some color to it. I can’t find anything about Ceramithane but it seems to be a very hard finish when applied in 2 coats on our butcher block top 🙂
Thanks
Shea says
Hello Jeff. We aren’t familiar with Ceramithane ourselves so we can’t give you a definitive answer. You would have to contact the manufacturer to see if you can tint for color. We’ve always recommended staying with a product that is designed specifically for concrete as you get your best protection against what you have described. H & C makes acrylic based colored sealers and one of our favorites we highlighted here. You can check with them about tinting.
As far as the purple PVC plumbers stain; it will clean up with acetone, a stiff brush, and a rag. You will need to prep your floor for a sealer by cleaning it well and possibly doing a mild etch. This should remove all scuff marks from your concrete as well and give you a nice clean floor to work with.
Jeff says
Does the HD6600 allow for coloring (tinting, but more like ending up with a solid color?) Your acrylic color sealer made by H/C is not a hybrid right? Your second link is the HD6600 but this is not a colored sealer is it? I’m confused on the 2 products you mention in one sentence.
Thanks
Shea says
The H & C product is not a hybrid, just an example of a tinted sealer. I contacted Legacy Industrial about tinting the HD6600 and they said it is not available yet, but hopefully soon. Most tinted sealers are typically ‘acrylic only’ because the color can be hard to disperse properly in a hybrid product. One thing to keep in mind is that tinted sealers are translucent in color, not solid, and will have a somewhat marbled look.
Carol Stephens says
The automotive glass shop where I work has a concrete floor that did not have plastic laid underneath it. We are in south Louisiana, just 30 miles north of New Orleans. We are experiencing a lot of moisture in the winter that is coming up from beneath the concrete. The result is a very slick, unsafe surface for anyone to walk across – especially when carrying glass. Is there anything we can use to seal the floor?
Shea says
Hi Carol. Yes, you can use a penetrating concrete floor sealer or moisture vapor sealer to help stop or at least slow down the moisture problem. You may want to conduct a moisture vapor transmission test first to determine how much moisture you have. Contact a sales rep from a leading company that deals in concrete sealers, not a home improvement center, and get a recommendation from them.
Ray Miller says
Hey Shea,
I have a garage floor that was coated during construction. I want to recoat it to cover battery acid stains and scrapes incurred over the past 8 yrs. I have contacted the developer, but have been unable to learn what product was used.
Do you know of any method, other than the use of Xylene, to determine whether the existing coating is solvent or water based?
Thanks for your effort in this regard.
Shea says
Hello Ray. Was your floor coated with a topical product such as epoxy or was it sealed with a clear acrylic sealer? We ask because you can’t cover stains with an acrylic sealer and the Xylene test you refer to is for acrylic sealers.
Ray Miller says
Sorry for the lack of clarity (no pun intended). It is a topical terra cotta colored application.
Shea says
If your coating is a tinted acrylic then the Xylene test is best to determine whether or not you can re-coat with a water based or solvent based acrylic. If you have an epoxy finish then there is no need to test. You can apply a solvent based epoxy for example, over a water based epoxy and vice versa. Just remember that before you re-coat, make sure to clean up the stains and neutralize the battery acid areas first.
Adrianne says
We are looking to do something unusual. We have a full walkout basement and have never had any water issues. We have a pond behind us and a creek on the side of our house. Over the past few years there has been commercial development about 5 miles away, but at an elevation directly pitched above us. Due to poor engineering and greed on behalf of the town, more than 20 homes in a straight line ending with my home have flooded (some homes had 7 feet of water and mud!). I do have a sump pump, but unfortunately we had 2 instances where it was overwhelmed, we upgraded the pump. All was well until this past June we lost almost everything down there….over 700 SQ ft of carpet, drywall & insulation, a dyson vacuum, new treadmill, antiques, the kids air hockey table and mini pool table, sofas, chairs, tables and even my dining room set in storage! There was much more, but I am sure you get the picture!
We are wondering, is it possible to lay down a laminate wood floor and then put an epoxy finish (maybe even two coats) over the floor to protect the floor in case of future water issues??
Shea says
Hello Adrianne, sorry to hear about your flooding issues. Epoxy over laminate flooring will not work for a variety of reasons, the first being that the finish needs to be roughed up first for the epoxy to adhere to. Second, it would be very difficult to apply epoxy in the environment that you described. Your best bet would be vinyl sheet flooring or you could lay porcelain tile down that looks like wood. Both of these types of flooring materials do much better in environments prone to flooding.
Janet Pelletier says
I plan to seal my (unheated) garage floor with an acrylic water-based concrete sealer. Does the outside temperature have any impact on application?
Shea says
Hi Janet. Yes, most acrylic sealers require a minimum surface temperature of approximately 50 degrees. Just check with the manufacturer because it can vary a little from brand to brand.
Sue says
My husband put Salt Sentry a penetrating concrete sealer on our garage floor and we have had trouble with it drying out. It seems dry but it is still off-gassing and it has been a month. The problem is our heater is in the garage and we are getting vapors in the house. Is there anything we can put over it to seal it and stop the off-gassing. We had a gentlemen come and look at it he pour concrete and he said there was no plastic barrier put down so it will take longer to dry. Any help you can give us will be appreciated. Can you put a topical sealer over it and would that stop the off-gassing.
Shea says
Hello Sue. The type of sealer you used is solvent based. It requires a generous coating of the product to saturate into the concrete in order to work properly. I’m assuming any areas that remained puddled was wiped up. Unfortunately, solvent based products will off-gas while they dry. Some can take quite a while depending on temperatures and humidity. I would recommend setting up a fan or two on the floor with the garage door open to speed up the process. I would also contact the manufacturer and discuss the situation with them. Some companies do offer a topical sealer that work in conjunction with their penetrating sealer, but it generally requires that the product is done off-gassing.