One of the toughest and most durable finishes that you can apply to a garage floor today is an epoxy coating. Not only does it protect your garage floor, it can instantly transform your boring or ugly concrete into a professional-looking floor of beauty and function.
And since the garage has become more than just a place where you park the car, the benefits of garage floor epoxy have made it one of the most popular garage flooring options today.
In fact, it is commonly used for both residential and commercial applications. Not only does it provide protection from the elements, but it will also give your garage or workshop floor that showroom shine that says “look at me”!
Depending on which type of garage floor coating system you choose, you can select from a variety of understated colors and hues. Other options are custom colors, metallics, and blends of color flakes that match your style, home, or even your favorite sports team.
So, let’s briefly examine what an epoxy coating really is. We will discuss what the benefits are, learn how it’s applied, and some of the costs involved.
Additionally, we will provide excellent examples of where you can purchase quality coatings and DIY coating kits that we have reviewed and can recommend.
What is garage floor epoxy?
Epoxy flooring is a thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating to concrete. It is created when you mix one-part colored or clear epoxide resin with one part polyamine hardener. Hence, a 2-part coating.
When the two parts are mixed, the hardener acts as a catalyst. This creates a chemical reaction upon contact and begins the exothermic curing process. This curing process forms polymer structures that are closely cross-linked, giving epoxy its superior strength and durability.
The end result is a thick and highly durable coating that bonds tenaciously to a properly prepared concrete surface.
Along with the colored epoxy coating, you also have the option of applying decorative color flakes and a high-performance clear coat. The clear coat protects the color flakes and color coat.
This combination of coatings is known as a garage floor coating system. Commercial quality systems can last for ten to twenty years on a garage floor.
In addition, if you don’t want the traditional epoxy look, there is the option of a metallic epoxy coating.
These finishes are extremely glossy and known for their wild-looking flowing rivers of metallic color. You can even create 3-D moon-like craters if you desire.
Though metallic epoxy can look absolutely stunning for a garage, it’s not for everyone. The darker colors and extreme gloss will show every spec of debris, dust, dusty footprints, and dirty tire tracks. It’s worse when the sun shines on it.
This is why the lighter grays, tans, and color flakes are so popular. They do a good job of not showing dust and the color flakes can camouflage bits of debris and other dirt.
Are there other coatings besides epoxy?
Epoxy is not the only type of decorative coating for a garage. It just happens to be the most well-known due to the many years that it has been available.
Commercial quality, single-part DIY polyurea coating systems are fast becoming a favorite for the DIY installer. These coatings are very durable and easier to apply than epoxy.
What’s more, one-day polyurea polyaspartic coating systems are now offered by commercial installers. These are very durable coatings that cure extremely fast. The fast cure allows them to apply a complete system in just one day.
Is Epoxy and Paint for a garage floor the same thing?
This is where marketing to the consumer by national brands has caused confusion and angst. An epoxy floor coating is not paint. Big retail companies started mixing the terms when they discovered people were asking for paint when they meant epoxy.
Most paints for garage floors are latex acrylic and have a matte to satin finish. They are the least durable of decorative options.
Some may have a very small percentage of epoxy resin added to increase durability, but these are still a latex acrylic and not a coating. These are known as epoxy paints or 1-part epoxy paint.
In addition, garage floor paint and 1-part epoxy paint do not seal the garage floor as an epoxy coating does. They are designed as a single coat application. That means you apply just the paint and that’s it.
Lastly, paint is not intended for clear topcoats. Nor are they compatible with most clear coats. Many people have become frustrated to learn this AFTER they applied a garage floor paint.
Read – Don’t Fall for These Phony “Best Epoxy” Reviews!
Benefits of a garage floor epoxy coating
So, what makes an epoxy coating one of the best finishes for your garage floor? Besides looking nice, the hard and thick coating that you get from epoxy creates a decorative surface that is very durable and easy to keep clean.
It’s resistant to impacts, chipping, chemicals, stains, and surface abrasion. You don’t have to panic about damaging or staining the surface if you spill oil on it or a bicycle falls over.
The thicker coatings also do a great job of covering over minor imperfections such as small spider cracks and flaws in the concrete.
In addition, epoxy is a concrete sealer. This means that it will seal out moisture at the surface as well. This is a great benefit for people who live in snowy climates that deal with road salts and deicing fluids that can damage concrete.
Furthermore, epoxy floor coatings are easy to clean. A mild cleaning solution and water are all that are required. Dirt and debris can be collected with a dust mop or soft broom when the floor is dry.
Epoxy coatings receive high reviews from home mechanics and hobbyists as well. Since it is both chemical and stain resistant, oil, brake fluids, anti-freeze, gasoline, and other caustic car chemicals can easily be wiped up without worry – even if it sits for a while. And because epoxy is a topical sealer, it is also anti-dusting.
Lastly, the high gloss and lighter colors of epoxy reflect overhead and natural light. This results in a brighter work environment that makes more efficient use of the light available.
How well do garage floor coatings stand up to heavy rolling tool boxes, floor jacks, and jack stands? Quite well actually!
As long as any rolling steel wheels are not roughly scarred up or slid across the floor without care, they will not damage or scratch most coatings. This goes for jack stands as well.
Review the different epoxy coating options by Concrete Network
Because the thicker, multiple coat epoxy systems wear so well, warranties of up to 15 years or more for installation by professional installers is becoming common. Many manufacturers even warranty the materials against defects for the life of the floor.
Visit our garage flooring gallery to view more epoxy coated garage floors.
Are garage floor coatings slippery?
Most floor coatings are not slippery when they are dry. However, epoxy and other coatings can become slippery when wet. Typically, the more gloss a coating has, the more slippery it can be when wet.
A heavy application of color flakes can add texture to a coating and make it slightly less slippery, but it is not a substitute for an anti-slip surface. If wet grip or non-slip is a concern, then an anti-slip media should be mixed into the final coat.
Are there drawbacks to an epoxy coating?
As tough as this type of garage floor covering can be, it’s not resistant to everything.
Welding is hard on epoxy and other floor coatings. It can create burn marks from the hot slag that falls on it. In fact, metal fabricating in general can be tough on floor coatings. This is due to the tendency for heavy and sharp objects to get dragged across the surface.
If you are interested in a more utilitarian type of coating that makes cleanup easier, yet resists hot slag and grinding sparks better, then we suggest looking into this coating that we reviewed.
Epoxy and other coatings are not a good choice for garage floors that have moisture issues from below the slab. The rate of moisture vapor transmission from underneath the slab can cause coatings to delaminate if it is too high.
In addition, there is always the concern about hot tire pick up for epoxy. This is a problem that is more closely associated with the home improvement store DIY epoxy paint kits. These are usually water-based coatings that are approximately 50% solids and 3 mils or less thick.
Hot tires can cause these coatings to soften. As the tires begin to cool, they contract ever so slightly, and the tire tread grabs and pulls at the surface of the thinner coating.
This process will actually cause the epoxy to delaminate as the tire pulls it up off the floor.
As a comparison, a 90% – 100% solids epoxy cures to a minimum of 9 mils dry film thickness. Many can be applied much thicker depending on the coverage rate used.
These thicker coatings are considered commercial quality. They are installed professionally or can be purchased from concrete coating vendors online and be applied DIY instead.
Read – Why Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield and similar epoxy paint kits get bad reviews.
Lastly, epoxy is not U.V. stable. It can develop a yellow tint over the years from exposure to direct sunlight. The coating industry refers to this as ambering. Low-quality epoxy can amber within months, while high quality epoxy may take years.
One way to prevent this from happening is to install an epoxy floor system with full color flakes and a high-performance clear coat. Both color flakes and clear topcoats such as polyurea or polyurethane are U.V. stable and will not amber.
How garage floor epoxy is applied
Epoxy floor coatings can be professionally installed or you can do it yourself. A DIY installation can save you quite a bit of money in labor costs. It’s not that difficult as long as you make yourself familiar with all the steps required and plan accordingly.
The first step is proper preparation of the concrete. This is critical and the most important step for a successful coating. The process will involve either floor grinding or acid etching of the surface in order to create the necessary concrete profile.
Repairing concrete cracks or other damage at this time is highly recommended if you want an unblemished look.
High quality epoxy floor systems involve multiple coats to insure a very tough and resistant coating that will last for years.
Depending on the system being applied, an epoxy primer may be applied first.
The primer penetrates and binds to the concrete to provide the best adhesion for the subsequent thick coating layers. Some primers will also act as a moisture vapor barrier. This is for concrete floors that are susceptible to moisture vapor that moves up from the soil through the concrete to the surface.
The next coat is the thick color epoxy base coat. Sometimes referred to as the build coat, This may be applied without a primer depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Next are the optional colored acrylic paint chips. The color coat is what will receive the colored flakes and are applied while the color coat is still freshly wet.
Full color flake coatings are a popular option. This is when the color flakes completely cover the base epoxy coat. This option allows for custom blends of flake colors to provide any color flooring you want. Furthermore, it provides additional thickness and durability to the coating.
The final coat/s is the clear topcoat. It is also referred to as the wear coat. It locks in the color flakes, provides the best wear and stain protection, and creates the glossy look and depth that these floors are known for.
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How much does garage floor epoxy cost?
The cost to epoxy your garage floor can vary greatly. It is determined by the type of concrete prep performed (etch or grind), possible repairs, quality of materials used, number of coats, and whether you hire a professional for installation or do it yourself.
The least expensive method for an epoxy floor is to apply it yourself.
Pricing can start as low as .27 cents per square foot. This would be for the single coat, low-budget, water-based epoxy coatings. Kits like this one from Rust-Oleum are an example. They are the least durable epoxy and not very glossy, but they are cheap in cost.
However, you can purchase a high-performance, commercial quality garage floor epoxy coating system in kit form for just over $1 per square foot. This would include an epoxy primer, high solids base epoxy color coat, color flakes, and a high-performance polyurethane clear coat.
This type of coating system in a kit will last 10-15 years or more. We highly recommend kits like this one here. It’s an excellent value for the money.
A good compromise for the budget would be a single coat of 100% solids epoxy. This company here offers a few choices of kits to fit your budget. You can also read our review.
The coatings that are easiest to apply are single-part polyurea. We did a full review of single-part polyurea here.
Don’t forget to factor in the cost for required supplies such as mixing buckets, paint rollers, cleaning supplies and etc. The advantage of the commercial quality kits is that many of these vendors include some of these supplies with their kits.
A professional installation typically starts at around $4.00 per square foot. This cost does vary and can depend on the competition in the area where you live. It will usually include a minimum of one epoxy color coat, color flakes, and a clear coat.
Cost can go up from there depending on the number of top coats required, how much color flake is applied in the base coat, and if more than one clear coat will be required. A typical 2-car garage is approximately 400ft² for reference.
Total time for a professional company to epoxy coat your garage floor is 2-3 days. You can usually park your car within 72 hours after it is finished.
The fast curing one-day polyurea polyaspartic systems start close to $6 per square foot and go up in cost from there. These are applied and finished in one day and can be driven on the next. Because of their fast cure rate, they should only be applied by professionals or those with much DIY coating experience.
Final thoughts
As we mentioned, an epoxy coating will completely transform the looks of your garage floor. It’s durable, easy to clean, highly stain resistant, and all while providing great looks at the same time.
There is one important point that we want to make. You genuinely get what you pay for when it comes to garage floor coatings. If want a budget product, you will get budget performance. If you spend a bit more, you will be rewarded with a much more durable coating.
In the long run, it will actually save you both time and money to purchase higher quality coating products – by far.
So, whether you are turning your garage into a man cave, a working shop for car repairs and projects, or just a place to park your cars, it’s hard to beat the benefits an epoxy garage floor coating system will provide.
L.A. Rankin says
Thanks for adressing hot tire pickup. That’s why a high quality topcoat is so
Important. Great informative article.
William P Wilson says
I would like a free estimate, to have an epoxy coating applied to my garage floor of 340 sq ft. Please call me to set up an apt for the free estimate at (520) 904-6248. Also, I’d like to see several coating samples.
Shea says
Hello William. All Garage Floors is not a concrete coating contractor, retailer, or manufacturer. Our job is to provide information and reviews on garage flooring options, including coatings, that are otherwise difficult to find or cannot be obtained. We suggest you read our article here on how to find a good concrete coating contractor or company.
Joe says
Can you use the epoxy coating on cellar floors?
Shea says
Hello Joe. You can, but it’s imperative to check for moisture first. This article here about moisture testing will explain why.
Greg Wilson says
I want to paint some lettering (letters are about 3 inches wide) on my basement floor. Can I apply epoxy over that? It’s a logo in the middle of the floor.
Shea says
Yes you can, Greg. Prep the floor first for the epoxy and then paint your logo. Let the paint dry and then lightly rough up the surface of the painted logo with 150 grit sandpaper. Once you do that you can apply the epoxy to the entire floor.
Clara says
Several years ago I had a contractor paint my garage floor. I don’t have the can so I’m not sure what type of paint was used. It was sprinkled after painted to give it a speckled effect. The paint has remained solid and in tact in the middle of the 2 car garage, with exce ption of the “hot tire marks”. One side of the garage has consistently peeled. My question is: should I paint the existing good area (what about the “hot tire marks”), and strip the one side of the loose paint and then paint with only the epoxy paint. Also, What would you suggest to strip/clean the bad wall?
Shea says
Hi Clara. Paint is always considered a low budget option for a garage and it will always need constant attention. It will stay adhered fairly well to properly prepared concrete that sees mostly foot traffic. However, if the paint is exposed to automobile traffic or is applied to concrete that is too smooth, then it will consistently peel at some point. We don’t recommend trying to fix certain areas with an epoxy coating. It will create a patchwork effect that will need always need attention and more epoxy as the older paint peels or wears away. In addition, you can’t purchase epoxy in small amounts and you will encounter much waste every time you need to add more epoxy to a new area that has peeled. Our recommendation is to remove the paint completely from the entire floor before applying epoxy. The easiest way to do this is via grinding. The grinding will also properly prep the surface for an epoxy coating. If grinding is not feasible for you, then we would recommend continuing with regular maintenance of repainting the spots where the car tires sit including the area of the garage that is always peeling. To help prevent the peeling in that area, we recommend etching the concrete first so the paint can obtain a better bite.
TimS says
First to comment on the plethora of information, WOW. Thank you for all this information on floor coatings.
I was looking at the Nohr-S and happen to run across another product they sell which is their polyaspartic. What is the difference between this and polyurea?
Shea says
Hello Tim and thank you. Polyaspartic is a type of polyurea that is very fast curing (3 hours) and with a very short pot life. It’s usually applied by two people to get it down on time. It’s not recommended for the inexperienced. It’s typically used by professional installers who are apply coatings in a single day. We have an article about polyurea polyaspartics here.
Bill Coward says
We our building a new home and the garage floor was just cemented. When should we epoxy the floor and is there any preparation that should be done because it is new cement?
Shea says
Hello Bill. You need to wait a minimum of 30 days for the concrete continue curing and releasing moisture before sealing or applying a coating. 99% of most coating products require a minimum of an acid etch prep in order to open up the pores and create the correct profile for the coating to mechanically bond. One of the few exceptions is a product by Rust Bullet called DuraGrade. You can read about it here. Even then, it stills needs to pass a water absorption test or the concrete will still need to be prepped as usual for a coating.
Tim S says
OK so this past weekend I ground my garage floor down and it actually looks great just the way it is, but I realize I have nothing to protect this new finish. So one drawback I have now realized with polyurea is it is quite expensive. What are your thoughts on using a product like rust bullet or hell fire coating in lieu of polyurea? Keep in mind this is a residential garage in Wisconsin that is susceptible to a lot of road salt.
Shea says
Hi Tim. If you like the look of the bare concrete as is, then we would suggest a couple coats of a clear polyurea. We would recommend some anti-slip additive in the last coat. Two coats of just clear is not that expensive, relatively speaking, and it’s very easy to apply. There is a picture in this article of what clear looks like on bare concrete. If you don’t mind the look of HellFire, it will require three coats and cost slightly less overall. Both coatings are extremely resistant to salt, deicing chemicals, and petroleum products. They will completely seal your concrete and last quite a few years.
C. Spangler says
My garage has a plywood floor located over basement storage space. Rain water and snow coming off the car leak through to the storage space below. I would like to use waterproof paint on the floor but want to avoid the hot tire issue. Could I use epoxy on the wood floor? Or what other possible solution could you suggest to waterproof wood flooring?
Shea says
Hi Colleen. Applying a coating to plywood floors to stop leaks is not always successful. Part of the problem is the joints. In addition, epoxy is extremely hard which makes it brittle if it flexes. You would need to use a coating with some flex such as polyurea. In order to accomplish your task, it would require sealing the joint that surrounds the wood floor where it meets the walls. SikaFlex could do that. Next, you would need to use a special epoxy bridging primer on the wood. This epoxy is designed to flex and help bridge gaps in the joints between plywood sheets. You would then need to apply a polyurea base coat after that since the epoxy primer is not designed specifically as a wear surface. After that, you will need to cross your fingers and hope it has sealed all the many joints that could possibly leak. People have done this successfully in the past, but it’s never guaranteed.
Donna santomartino says
Hello, I’m hoping you can advise me…we used Haymes ultimate two pack epoxy part a and b for our garage floor with flakes applied heavily and pressed in with the foam roller (as per their specs…we watched a YouTube video for their application process) it looked great with the excess flakes but when it was dried off and swept we had several areas that had ‘roller marks’ and a lot less flakes had stuck to those areas (these areas were where each new band had been started and overlapped and obviously now we feel that the painted edge must have been drying out and wasn’t sticky enough to hold the flakes in place) once dry we applied more paint to those ‘bald’ spots and more flakes…and even though this has fixed the low flake area we now dark patches were the additional product was applied!! Can you advise me if this project can be saved at all. Thanks in advance Donna
Shea says
Hello Donna. We moved this question from our article about curb ramps to our epoxy section. From your description it sounds like you pressed too hard with the roller which resulted in applying the coating too thin. That would explain the coloring differences, roller marks, and loss of flakes. The coating was not thick enough for the flakes to sink in and adhere properly. In addition, you are correct about not keeping a wet edge. Coatings do not blend like acrylic paint on a wall. Once they have begun to cure and you overlap with a fresh application, the color tone will look different and you can see the overlap marks. Unfortunately, you can’t do much about your issue without scraping all the semi loose flakes, sanding the surface to rough it up, and then applying a new coat with flakes to the entire floor. You may want to contact the manufacturer and see what they can do to help. We have found that some companies will offer discounts and sometimes even offer free product to solve a customer issue.
Dan Dendy says
If i used this epoxy with the flakes on the wood floor of my car trailer do I need to apply the clear seal on top ?
Shea says
Hello Dan. You don’t have to apply a clear coating, however, the flakes will be exposed. Dirt will tend to collect around the edges of the flakes and they will also tend to wear or get dislodged in high traffic areas.
Berto says
I had my garage epoxied by professional contractor. now, almost a year later I have tire marks where the cars would sit after being driven. I’ve read about plasticization (sp?) and how it transfers from tires into the epoxy. My question is: how do I remove those tire marks? I’ve tried Goof Off and so far nada. Perhaps I need to let it sit longer or apply several time? any help is greatly appreciated.
Shea says
Hello Berto. We have an article here that addresses tire marks as well as a product recommendation called NAB Black Streak.
Humberto Montero says
Hi Shea, thank you so much for the insights and guidance you’ve provided regarding epoxy floors, I truly respect and appreciate your support to the community.
Currently I have a warehouse (1000m2) with ceramic tiles and one of my lift trucks (around 5 ton) has cracked a few of them. Its is impossible for me to move out the racks and break the ceramic tiles in order to install the epoxy floor; even though this would be the ideal. I was planning to apply the epoxy flooring on top of the ceramic tiles in the hallways and the main hall (where the lift trucks pass by)
Is this viable for the long term?
Giving my constraints, what would you recommend?
Have a good rest of your day and thanks for your help.
Shea says
Hello Humberto. Yes, it can be done, but it’s not inexpensive. The ceramic tile takes longer to prep in order to provide the proper profile for adhesion. Any loose or missing tile would need to be replaced. The floor then needs to be coated with a 100% solids epoxy slurry coat first that will fill in all the grout lines and depressions. It is then prepped again and then the floor coating system of choice can be applied. It’s definitely a job for a professional and not DIY.
Humberto Montero says
Shea, thanks for your comments.
What if instead of using epoxy flooring, I use the plastic interlocking floor or the GEMP epoxy floor (rolled sheet)?
If there is any other alternative I can use please let me know.
Once again, thanks for your help.
Shea says
The GEMP flooring is still going to require an epoxy slurry be laid first, Humberto. It requires a very smooth surface free of voids, cracks, and etc. Interlocking tile will work, but it’s not designed for the forklift traffic of a warehouse if that is what you are thinking. What is the exact problem with the ceramic tiles that makes you want to replace them?
Humberto Montero says
Actually the floor isn’t ceramic, it is terrazo.
I want to find a solution to the constant cracking on the warehouse’s floor without having to break all the terrazo tiles, hence the solution would have to go on top of the terrazo tiles.
Shea says
OK, that makes a big difference. Terrazzo flooring should be smooth without grout line depressions and etc. If that is what you have, then it can be coated using quality epoxy primer first. It does require aggressive grinding of the surface to provide the proper profile and to remove any sealers that are typically used with terrazzo. However, the big issue is that the Terrazzo is constantly cracking where you have forklift traffic. What’s important to understand, Humberto, is that a floor coating is only as good as the substrate it is attached to. If the Terrazzon is cracking, so will the epoxy. In other words, it’s not going to reinforce it and make it stronger. The same goes for the GEMP flooring option. If the Terrazzo cracks and breaks apart, so will a coating and the GEMP flooring since it’s glued directly to it.
If the Terrazzo cracks, but does not crumble, one option for you may be industrial PVC interlocking tiles. These are used for warehouses, fire stations, forklift traffic, and etc. It’s a solid construction, yet flexible PVC tile that is made in different thicknesses depending on the use. I would recommend that you contact ArmorPoxy to discuss your situation. They have a product called SupraTile that is used for these purposes. I’m not sure if they ship to Costa Rica or not, but they may know of a distributor that does.
Humberto Montero says
Appreciate your comments
Sandy says
I have a small patio storage area that I’m fixing up. Should I sheetrock the walls first or do the epoxy floors first and then walls? Thanks!
Shea says
Hi Sandy. It’s always best to sheetrock, paint, and do any other construction related activities first before doing the floor. You can always tape off the lower 2-3′ of wall with inexpensive plastic drop cloths to protect the walls from the concrete prep.
Tim Philpott says
We actually did the two-part epoxy with poor results. Within a couple of months the finish began to flake, then rub off under car tires and powder (caused by moisture in the concrete) routinely comes up through the finish. We followed all of the instructions and were very disappointed by the results. The system we used did not include an epoxy primer and was a one-coat system. Now we have quite a mess to clean up. What do you recommend we consider next? It seems like removing the remaining epoxy would be difficult, but the white powder makes be think the floor is not sealed (we live in a foggy moist area) so my inclination is the try and strip or sand it all off and start over with better preparation. But maybe tiling might be easier? I do work on my cars in the garage and so I need a surface that is easy to maintain with fluids and use of a floor jack.
Shea says
Hello Tim. What you are describing sounds like you may have a moisture issue where water is being drawn up by the concrete from below the slab. Coatings do not tolerate moisture from underneath very well. Since coatings seal and do not breathe, moisture gets caught under the coating and causes the concrete that it is attached to to break down and crumble. This is the white dust you are referring to. What you need to do is remove the coating via grinding and then do a proper calcium chloride moisture test. Based on those results, you can determine if a coating can be applied or not. There are special moisture vapor blocking epoxy primers that are available, but you need to determine how much moisture the slab is creating first. Tiling is another option, but again, it would depend on the moisture issue.
James says
Randomly came across your site — man what a bunch of great content. Just felt compelled to say thanks — amazing how engaged you are with the folks who ask questions/comment. No need to moderate this one in … just wanted to say thanks.
Shea says
Thanks for the kind words, James. 🙂
Jim says
If we use the semi-transparent stain on our interior kitchen floor and then cover it in a clear epoxy (do they make that in low luster), would that last a long time with people and pets, cleaning etc?
Shea says
Hi Jim. Be careful about stains. True stains are not semi-transparent. What you most likely are considering is a tinted acrylic sealer. We discuss the differences here. These type of products are not designed to have coatings applied over them. If you want to use a tough coating that will stand up to heavy traffic and pets, then you will need to use a true stain. Though this article needs some updating, it talks about how stains work.
If you want something that is tough and low luster, then you may want to consider a water-based stain like Delta Dye. You could then apply a two or three coats of an acrylic polyurethane like this one that is very tough. It has definite matte finish to it. As long as your concrete absorbs water, no etching will be required with either product.
Jim Wells says
Thank you for the great advice so quickly given. It’s very appreciated.
chad says
Lots of Great Content here !
Question 1 . can u epoxy over wood such as plywood or a 2×6.. what is involved with that ? thanks
Question 2 . if use 100% solids epoxy as a base coat and then polyaspartic overtop of the flake will it still amber in the sun light
thanks
Shea says
Hello Chad. #1 Yes, epoxy can be applied over wood. You need to rough it up with 60 grit sandpaper first. Make sure that it’s not for a surface than can flex. Epoxy does not flex and will crack if the surface flexes.
#2 If the flakes do not fully cover the epoxy, then yes, the epoxy exposed to the sunlight will eventually amber. Color flakes are acrylic and will not amber. If a full flake floor is done, then there is no chance of ambering with a polyaspartic top coat applied since the epoxy is not exposed.
Abe says
After reading through your blog, I’ve decided to go with a local professional epoxy installer with stellar reviews. He is doing everything you are preaching; Grinding+Priming+100% solid epoxy with flakes + polyaspart top coat. And no anti skid because we are doing flakes.
However he is saying I’ll need a moisture vapor barrier because my concrete is 40 years old… I do not know what that is and I could not find it here being talked about. Can you please comment on what this is, and what is does and at which point it is applied? And one more thing, my concrete is sealed (per the water beading test) so when do I do the moisture test before or after grinding?
Shea says
Hello Abe. Moisture vapor barriers are installed before the concrete is poured. It’s essentially a very thick piece of plastic sheeting that is laid down on the bare ground with the edges turned up and sometimes attached to the bottom of the forms. This prevents the slab from absorbing and transferring moisture vapor or actual water to the surface. It’s a common installation for basement slabs or slabs below grade. Was the installer possibly referring to a moisture vapor barrier blocking epoxy primer? Does your slab have a history of moisture issues or is it below grade? The only reason to use a moisture blocking primer is if the slab has moisture issues or it has been confirmed through testing. If moisture is present, it’s important to perform a calcium chloride test (or similar) in order to know how much moisture (expressed in #’s/24hrs/1000 ft2) is present in order to know what type of moisture blocking epoxy primer be used. Concrete treated with a penetrating sealer will breathe and allow moisture transmission, so it can be tested with the sealer present.
Abe says
Hey Shea
They replied to my moisture vapor barrier question. He’ll be using it instead of a Primer! And this is the material he’s using https://www.apfepoxy.com/category-moisture-remediation-system
What say you?
I am planning to do the moisture test as soon as I receive the kits.
One more think, the final thickness of 28-32 MIL, is that good? Does thickness make a difference?
thanks
Shea says
Hi Abe. Arizona Polymers makes good product. The VaporSolve 100 LP is an epoxy primer used specifically to remedy moisture issues. So no issues there using it as a primer. It’s also more expensive than a typical epoxy primer. Our questions is; why do they feel the need to use such a product? Do you have obvious moisture issues or signs of it? Are they guarantying your coating against peeling due to moisture if they use this product?
Yes, 28-32 mils is a good thickness. Thickness increases impact resistance and also helps to hide imperfections in the concrete surface.
Andy says
Hi
I decided to order Rust-Olium Epoxyshield Professional from Amazon.
Should I prime the garage floor first after clean and grind? If so, which primer product I can get from Home Depo or Lowe?
Will it be better if I do 2 coats of Epoxyshield Professional? If so, how long do I wait before the first coat? And do I only apply the chips after the second coat?
And finally, should I apply a clear coating after the Epoxyshield? and which clear coating product may I get from the local store.
Thank you for your help.
Shea says
Hello Andy. The proper primer for a coating is an epoxy primer. The home improvement centers do not sell such products. A concrete paint primer (acrylic latex paint) is not a coating primer and is not compatible. It does not adhere half as well as epoxy and epoxy will not chemically bond and cure to it. This article about primers explain how they work and it addresses the issue about one coat kits such as Rust-Oleum near the end.
If you want to ensure good color uniformity and a higher build, then you can do two coats of the EpoxyShield. Rust-Oleum generally allows for up to three days to recoat without further prep. Clear coats are always recommended since they will lock in and protect the color flakes as well as the color coat. Rust-Oleum sells EpoxyShield Clear Coat as well.
Andy says
Thank you Shea for the response.
Between EpoxyShield Professional and RockSolid, which one is the preferred product? I now have second thought of using RockSolid instead even though I have ordered EpoxyShield professional.
Shea says
RockSolid is much more glossy than EpoxyShield. If you apply it you will need two color coats for sure due to the grinding. It’s a thin mil coating that penetrates concrete well and as a result rarely achieves it’s stated coverage rates. The biggest complaint from people is that the color tone changes and looks less glossy in areas because it cured too thin due to penetration and trying to achieve those stated coverage rates. Apply the first coat as the primer and the second color coat will look good.
To be honest, neither of these two choices would make our list of good coatings that you want to last for years and years after grinding and doing all the floor prep. They are residential quality DIY coatings and do not perform nearly as well as the commercial quality products available from concrete coating vendors. They are less expensive though so we can understand their appeal in that regards.
Andy says
Thank you Shea. Any Coating Vendors close to California that can ship commercial quality product pretty quickly.
My floor is ready to apply the coating and I don’t want to wait too long with all the stuff seating outside the garage.
EpoxyShield Professional arrived yesterday.
Shea says
There is Versatile that sells the Roll On Rock coating systems. They are located in Los Angeles. You can read the article about their system here, which includes a link to pricing. I would suggest giving them a call first to check on availability and shipping. If you are close, you may be able to will call.
Andy says
Thank you Shea
It turns out that Versatile location in Anaheim is very close to me and I will be able to pick up from their location.
Watching their video, they apply lots and lots of chips then scrape them before applying the final coat.
Do you think it will work if I apply less chips and avoid scraping?
Shea says
That is called applying color flakes to full refusal, Andy. It creates a thicker overall coating, provides more protection due to that thickness, and because the epoxy is completely covered, there is no worry about the epoxy color coat ambering (yellow tint) from sun exposure. You don’t have to apply that many chips though if you don’t want to. It’s up to you. However, the advantage of color flakes to full refusal is that you can create any color palette of chips that you want to achieve a custom look. It will also hide any cosmetic application mistakes that might be made with the epoxy as well as help to hide imperfections in the concrete or concrete repairs.
Andy says
Hello Shea
I completed the Versatile roll on rock using their DIY kit. However, I feel the floor surface it is not as smooth as I would like and have some rough chips/flakes edges, it looks like the clear coat did not completely cover the chips/flakes, maybe I did not scrape them down enough. Will another clear coat make it floor smooth? How long do I have before apply another clear coat and what product can I use.
Thank you for all your help.
Shea says
Yes, it sounds like you didn’t scrape the color flakes well enough, Andy. Most commercial coatings require a recoat within 24 hours or the floor will need to be roughed up with 120 grit sandpaper first. We highly recommend using the same product. It’s a high performance clear coat and you don’t want to apply anything less. If you have flakes sticking up through the clear coat, then you are going to want to sand the surface anyways to smooth things out. I would recommend giving Versatile a call in the morning to discuss.
Amit Shrivastava says
Thanks for wonderful articles. I was researching Epoxy coat from last week and really found your articles and comments helpful. I understood the importance and process of floor prep however i am still struggling to decide the product which suits my budget and perform better , remain durable. My confusion is between Sherwin-Williams H&C Shield Create and Rust-Oleum products. I am a fan of SW when it comes to paint but unable to find any review on their water based Epoxy (may be because they only sell in SW store). Do you have any feedback on SW product? If you answer me to go with Rust-Oleum, my next question would be EpoxyShield vs Professional. All of these are almost same the price. Can you help me with choosing the product. I think Professional is not water based?
Shea says
Hi Amit. H&C Sheild-Crete by Sherwin Williams is a water-based, low solids (thin mil) coating that is very similar to Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield water-based coatings. They are the least expensive and low performance choices for epoxy coatings. This article here explains more about these type of coatings and what to expect. As a comparison, the Epoxy-Coat product you were reading about is a commercial quality 100% solids epoxy that is approximately 3X thicker per coat. It will not suffer hot tire pickup and will last years longer. If you need to choose a lower budget epoxy, we would recommend the Rust-Oleum Professional EpoxyShield. It is as solvent-based epoxy and will last longer than the water-based version.
Amit Shrivastava says
Thanks. I ordered the professional version of rust Oleum today. For top coat can I use Rock solid clear coat instated of Epoxy shield clear coat ? Do you think that would be more Durable?
Shea says
Hello Amit. We recommend staying with the Rust-Oleum Professional Clear Coat since it is compatible. You would need to check with Rust-Oleum customer service to see if RockSolid will chemically bond with the Rust-Oleum Professional.
Amit Shrivastava says
Thanks Shea for prompt response . I am going with Your advise .
I am wondering if I shall do 2 coats of Rust-Oleum professional epoxy followed by clear coat … that will make it 3 coat in total and probably good thickness . What is the re- coat window you will recommend ?
Shea says
Hi Amit. What you are proposing will hold up fairly well. Honestly though, if you are going to spend the money for a total of three coats, then we would recommend that you look into the cost of applying a commercial quality coating system if the budget allows for it. The Epoxy-Coat product you were looking at is one example. Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield coatings are not glossy (satin gloss) and they can amber (yellow tint) if exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight after a period of time. Another example of quality kit would be Roll On Rock. It would be approximately 3 times thicker than the three coats of Rust-Oleum. It would also allow you to choose how you want the floor to look since it’s full flake coverage with custom colors that you can choose. Plus, it includes a polyurea top coat that is more abrasion resistant and chemical resistant than epoxy. Lastly, it will not amber in direct sunlight. I’m just trying to let you know what your options are if it’s in the budget since we get so many emails from people who state they would have applied a better coating if they had known about it.
Amit Shrivastava says
Thanks again Shea . I understand what you are saying but actually I ordered 2 kit rust oleum professional for my 2.5 car garage and my friend gave me one 1 car kit in spare hence I am planning to do 2 coat and 1 clear . But I understand what you are saying and looked the options but it is still doubling the cost . However I want to understand from you on how long shall I wait for 2 coat (with flakes )…? I have prepared my floor very well in last several days .. 3 times with degreaser and 2 time acid etched .. I am planning to let it dry for 2-3 days and will vacuum and clean with swiffer spray mop just before applying first coat of epoxy … does it sound good or I shall plan anything differently ?
Shea says
RockSolid requires that you wait a minimum of 8-12 hours before recoating. You have up to 7 days to recoat before additional prep is required. Letting the concrete dry for 2 or 3 days is good. DO NOT use a Swiffer spray mop on the concrete just before application. No contaminants or moisture should be introduced. Just vacuum if necessary and then apply the coating.
Mark says
I have a garage that has been acid washed. Is it possible to epoxy over it?
Thanks in advance.
Shea says
Hi Mark. If the concrete has been cleaned and acid etched properly, then it can take an epoxy coating.
Pooyan Sajjadi says
Hi Shea,
I have read this article a couple years ago when you just wrote it, and then today, after many years I stumbled upon it again. Thanks twice mate 🙂
Amit Shrivastava says
I am sorry asking so many questions but you were so helpful and I don’t find anything anywhere to my next problem so checking with you . I acid etched , neutralized , rinse and pressure washed my floor yesterday but today when it dried I see my shoe foot prints.. is this something to worry about and if so what shall I do ? So far I was very happy with floor prep but after seeing my shoe foot print , I am little worried
Shea says
Hi Amit. No, that should not be a problem. Unless there is heavy white residue on the shoe print that you can can wipe up with your fingers, you will be fine.
Amit Shrivastava says
Yes … I am able to wipe out from my finger ( I am happy it is not due to acid) and it only one part of my garage (neat garage door ). So I should pressure wash the particular area one more time today to remove the dust?
Shea says
Try scrubbing it with a brush first before using a pressure washer, Amit. Pressure washers drive water much deeper into the concrete and require that you wait longer for it all to dry out. If the water in the concrete has not evaporated out, it will form bubbles in the coating shortly after it is applied.
Sman says
Shea,
I am in the process of building a new home that will have two two car garages (one for work truck/tools, etc.)
As I plan to coat the floors in both, the concrete guy suggested finishing with a broom/brush after pour. Would this be a good idea or is it better to have a smooth finish to the concrete?
Shea says
Hi Sman. No, you do not want a broom finish. Have the concrete hard troweled or power troweled for a standard smooth finish. Broom finishes create weak ridges for the coating to adhere to and make is susceptible to chipping. In addition, it takes quite few coats to get enough coating on the surface to smooth things out. Concrete with broom finishes have to be treated to grinding to smooth out the surface and provide the proper profile. It’s a lot of work. Standard smooth finishes can accept acid etching in lieu of grinding for most coatings.
Also, make sure they do not apply a “cure and seal” product to the surface. If they do, you will need to grind in order to remove the sealer before applying a coating.
Frank says
Hello Shea, I have hard time on choosing between 2 Rustoleum epoxy coat vs 1 epoxy coat + the clear finish from the same product line if I only have the budget to choose one of those, I would like to ask what’s you point here, thanks
Shea says
Hi Frank. If you make sure to stay within the coverage rate of the epoxy in order to create even color uniformity and thickness, then one color coat and one clear coat is the optimal choice. The clear acts as the sacrificial coat and protect the color coat. In addition, it provides a glossier look for better light reflection and it will show scratches less.