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One of the toughest and most durable finishes that you can apply to a garage floor today is an epoxy coating. Not only does it protect your garage floor, it can instantly transform your boring or ugly cement into a professional looking floor of beauty and function. And since the garage is fast becoming more than just a place where you park the car, the benefits of garage floor epoxy have quickly made it one of the top choices for garage flooring today.
Used for both residential and commercial applications, epoxy will give your garage or shop floor that showroom shine that says “look at me”! Depending on which application you choose, you can select from a variety of understated solid colors and hues, to custom colors and blends of color flakes that match your style or even your favorite sports team.
So let’s examine briefly what an epoxy coating really is, what the benefits are for you, learn how it’s applied, and some of the costs involved.
What is garage floor epoxy?
We’ll start by ending some confusion about epoxy right now. An epoxy garage floor coating is not paint. Paint for garage floors is a latex acrylic product. Some paints will have a small percentage of epoxy added to the mix to make it more durable than standard paint, but it is still paint. These are known as epoxy paints or 1-part epoxy paint.
Epoxy is an actual thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating. It is formed when you mix one part epoxide resin with one part polyamine hardener. The hardener acts as a catalyst and is what gives epoxy its strength.
Unlike paint that has to dry, epoxy actually cures. When the two parts are mixed, a chemical reaction is started which creates an exothermic curing process. This curing process produces polymer structures that are closely cross-linked giving epoxy its superior strength and durability. The end result is a coating that is much thicker than paint and bonds tenaciously to a properly prepared surface.
Benefits of a garage floor epoxy coating
So what makes an epoxy coating one of the best finishes for your garage floor? Besides looking nice, the hardened and thick application that you get from epoxy creates a coating that is very durable and resilient to impacts, chipping, chemicals, stains, and surface abrasion. You don’t have to panic about damaging the floor if you drop a wrench or a bicycle falls over.
The thicker coating also does a great job of covering over minor imperfections such as small spider cracks and flaws in the concrete. Because epoxy is a topical sealer, it is also anti-dusting. Much of the dust in a garage is created from the powder that a cement floor can shed. Normal traffic on bare concrete can kick up this dusty powder that has a tendency of collecting on cars, tool benches, and storage items, as well as being tracked into the house.
As a topical coating it is also naturally moisture resistant. This is a great benefit for people who live in snowy climates. It makes for easy cleaning of icy brines and road salts that can collect on the floor during the winter. Just a little mild soap and water is all it takes. Dust and debris can be collected with a dust mop or soft broom when the floor is dry.
Depending on whether you added colored acrylic flakes to the floor and the type of topcoat used, some surfaces can be slippery when wet. For people who live in drier climates this usually isn’t an issue. If you want some extra grip however, you can add slip resistant aggregate to the final coat that will create a non-skid surface.
Epoxy coatings receive high reviews from the home mechanics and hobbyists as well. Since it is both chemical and stain resistant, oil, brake fluids, anti-freeze, gasoline, and other caustic car chemicals can easily be wiped up without worry – even if it sits for a while. Rolling tool boxes, jacks, and jack stands will not damage the floor either. It also brightens up the garage environment because it is very light reflective depending on what type of finish you choose.
As tough as this type of garage floor covering is, it’s not resistant to everything however. Welding is hard on epoxy because it can create burn marks from the hot slag that falls on it. It’s also not a good choice for garage floors that have moisture issues. The rate of moisture vapor transmission from underneath the slab can cause epoxy to delaminate if it is too high.
Review the different coating options for epoxy floors
A common question that pops up about epoxy garage floors is hot tire pick up. This is caused when the hot tires from your car can soften lessor quality coatings. The tires then cool down and contract after driving which causes the tire tread to literally grab and pull at the surface of the still soft coating. This process will actually cause the epoxy to delaminate as the tire pulls it up off the floor.
Hot tire pick up is a problem that is associated more with the lesser quality products such as store bought epoxy paint kits. These are usually water based coatings that are 50% solids at best and only 3 mils thick, as compared to 100% solids epoxy that is 10 mils or more thick. These thicker coating are generally found in quality commercial grade product or professionally installed coatings.
Because the thicker, multiple coat epoxy floors wear so well, warranties of up to 15 years or more for installation by professional installers is becoming common. Many manufacturers of 100% solids epoxy warranty the product against defects for the life of the floor.
Visit our garage flooring gallery to view more epoxy coated garage floors.
How garage floor epoxy is applied
Epoxy garage floors require good floor preparation which is critical for a successful coating. This usually involves some form of either floor grinding, shot blasting or acid etching of the floor to profile the concrete for the epoxy. It’s very critical that it is done right or the epoxy coating will not adhere properly. Patching or repairing any cracks or other damage to the concrete before the epoxy is applied is required as well.
Quality epoxy floor systems usually involve multiple coats to insure a very tough and resistant coating that will last for years. Many times this will involve an epoxy primer which is applied first.
The primer is what binds to the concrete to provide adhesion for the subsequent layers and provide for a higher build. Some primers will also act as a moisture barrier for those cement floors that are somewhat susceptible to moisture vapor that moves up from the soil through the concrete to the surface.
The next coat is the color coat or base coat. This may sometimes be applied without primer depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations. This coat will also receive the application of colored acrylic paint chips to add density and texture if so desired. The final coat is the clear top coat. This is what gives the finish that glossy look and depth that these floors are known for.
Epoxy coated garage floors in various colors and paint chip applications
One option would be a system that includes a polyurethane top coat. Epoxy will yellow or amber, as the industry calls it, when exposed to sunlight over a period of time. Polyurethane is a two part polymer that hardens just like epoxy and is used as a sealer and protectant. When used in the color coat and top coat with epoxy, it will resist the yellowing effect that happens when exposed to sun.
Garage floor epoxy costs
The least expensive method to achieve a quality coating is to apply the garage floor epoxy yourself. This isn’t too difficult for the ambitious “do it yourself” person. A quality single coat 100% solids epoxy kit that will cover a standard 2-car garage can be purchased for less than $300. This doesn’t include any expense for floor prep or additional tools however. Expect to pay approximately $200 more if you want to add a clear top coat.
A professional installation generally starts around $4.00 a square foot depending on the competition and area you live in. This usually includes a minimum of 3 coats and the cost goes up from there depending on the amount of top coats involved and how much color flake is applied in the base coat. A typical 2-car garage is approximately 400ft² to get an idea of cost.
Because of the curing time needed between epoxy coats, total time to complete the job and be able to park your car is approximately 3 to 5 days. There are now newer polyaspartic and polyurea floor coating systems that are fast curing that can be applied all in one day and driven on the next. Professional installation of these systems start around $6.00 a square foot. Because of their fast cure rate, they should not be applied by the average DIY person who is not confident in their abilities.
Whether you are turning your garage into a show piece for storage and cars or just want something to protect your garage for years to come, a good system such as this will last years and give you one of the best returns for the dollar.
i would like to know how long i need to wait to apply the epoxysheld clear to the epoxysheild floor paint ?
Hi Mitchell. We are assuming when you say EpoxyShield floor paint, you actually mean the 2-part EpoxyShield epoxy garage floor coating? If so, you need to wait a minimum of 8-12 hours before recoat. You should be able to press your thumb to the surface without leaving a thumbprint. Rust-Oleum allows up to three days to apply subsequent coats (color or a clear) before you need further prep.
Anyone happen to know the epoxy color/chip color combination in the picture at the top of this article?
Hi Curtis. We have contacted Mission Builders in the past, however, they do not know what color flake combination was chosen for that floor.
I applied the Rust-Oleum RockSolid coating to my garage 6 months ago but am now concerned about slipping on it when wet. What would you suggest to put over it at this stage for non-slip? I see some options are quite expensive.
Thanks, Curt
Hello Curt. In order to retain the current looks you would need to apply a RockSolid clear coat with the an anti-slip additive added to it. Sometimes this additive comes with the kit. It would require that you degloss and rough up the current surface with 120 grit sandpaper before applying the clear coat.
HI I have prepped my concrete garage floor, used epoxy primer and then Rusto-leum Epoxy floor. It was so thin that we then used the top coat as well. It still does not have that professional look. Can we use the Rustoleum Rock Solid Polycuramine top coat over the epoxy? What about the Rock Solid textured clear top coat?
Hello Antje. What epoxy primer did you use exactly? Also, what do you mean when you said it was “thin”? Was it the color or something else?
We used Rust-Oleum epoxy primer. The color is fine but I was hoping for a thicker coating that would really enhance the concrete floor.
OK, good. I was afraid you may have used a concrete bonding primer (bad). I’m assuming that you used Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield for the color coat? If so, it only has a semi-gloss finish to the color and will not look like the professionally installed, commercial quality garage floor coatings with the glossy look. It doesn’t matter what clear coat you put over it, it not’s going to achieve the same rich look of colors and gloss. You would need to apply a glossy color coat first. The RockSolid color coat is very glossy. However, like Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield, it’s a thin mil coating. If you want thickness to go along with the gloss, then you would need to apply the proper high solids, commercial quality epoxy color coat.
Hi there, I have two spots where my garage door doesnt fully seal against the concrete garage floor which allows water to slowly seep through. From reading through all these it sounds like using a polymer-modified concrete to level the small dips in the floor is the way to go. Is that correct? Lastly, do you know any contractors in Los Angeles who can do this job? I’ve had an extremely hard time finding any concrete guys who wanna do the job or even offer that type of work.
Hi Sam. Most concrete contractors will not come to a home for small jobs like that. Also, unless you are going to be applying a garage floor coating or some other flooring over the concrete, the repairs will stand out since it’s not going to look like the original concrete. How much of a gap or low spot do you have? If you have a standard retractable overhead garage door, your bottom seal may need replacing. They are designed to compress and fill small gaps in the concrete when the door is adjusted properly. When they get old, they loose their resiliency and don’t seal very well. In addition, oversized bottom door seals are also available if you need it to conform to some bigger gaps or waviness of the floor. Lastly, you can also install a floor seal like this here. These conform to the floor and help to seal with the garage door to prevent unwanted debris and water from entering.
Thanks for the response. I am planning to do an epoxy job after it but have still had issues finding guys who’ll do both jobs. Maybe a handyman with concrete experience could do it? There’s 2 dips both small like less than 1/4″. I replaced the bottom seal. And tried programming the door to shut further down. I also tried a floor threshold like you sent but I was unable to get it to stick to the floor even after 3 days. Seemed to never fully dry so our Yukon would just slide it when we pulled into the garage. I see these oversized bottom sealers from North Shore, perhaps that’s the answer? At this point I’ve tried so many things that keep failing so I’m nervous to do any non permanent fixes… thoughts?
Really appreciate your help
If you are going to go with a garage floor coating, make sure that you hire an actual garage floor coating company or contractor. We have an article on how to choose one here. Don’t try and find a handyman, painter, or some guy who does it on the side. There is always problems with application and/or poor materials. The companies licensed and bonded to do garage floor coatings are specialists in their field. They can easily take care of spots like that by troweling in a fast cure slurry during the floor prep stage.
As far as the garage door, if the gaps are not large then a larger diameter seal will many times fix the issue. Also, if the concrete is clean and you are using the correct adhesive, a garage floor strip should not peel up. Gorilla Construction Adhesive works well for projects like that.
What temperature is OK to install the floor? It’s in the 50’s and raining here now in Southwest FL.
Hi Denise. For epoxy you need a minimum temperature of 55-60 degrees or it won’t cure. Also, the humidity has to be less than 80 – 85% depending on the manufacturer. Single-part polyurea would be a better choice if temps are an issue.
A friend just bought a home and I’m helping install some shelving. Can we install 2×4 framing directly on the epoxy, or do we need to install a vapor barrier – as we would directly on a cement floor. Thanks in advance!
Hi Rand. Yes, you can apply it directly on top of the epoxy. No vapor barrier is needed since the epoxy does not breathe and completely seals the concrete.
Thanks so much for the quick reply Shea 🙌
I am In the process of building a house right now. We decided to go with precolored concrete. I loved how it looked when wet and would like my sealer to bring out that look. What type of sealer would you recommend for the interior of the house that would also bring out that wet look?
Thanks.
Hi Wesley. One way to tell how concrete would look with a clear coating is to wet the surface. If you like how the surface looks wet, then a clear coating with a gloss finish will provide a similar look. DuraGrade Clear by Rust Bullet would make a good choice. It’s low in VOC’s so there is less stink for an indoor application. Plus, it’s much more abrasion resistant than typical water-based acrylics that are used indoors.
Hi Shea,
I’ve changed my mind and want to go with an epoxy coated garage floor instead of polymer modified cement. I have a 2 car garage (400 sq ft) with quite a bit of pitting (approx. 200 sq ft) and some cracks. I’m gonna rent an EDCO dual head grinder and grind everything down before starting the repairs of the pitting and cracking.
My question is, can I use a modified polymer cement (much cheaper than epoxy patch products) to repair the pitting, rough it up with light grinding and then apply an epoxy primer and topcoat? Will epoxy based products adhere to the pol. modified cement?
Thank you
Raffi
Hi Raffi. Yes, coatings will adhere to polymer-modified cement as long as it is roughed up. DO NOT use a self-leveling underlayment like you can find at your local home improvement centers. These are designed to have flooring laid over them such as wood, carpet, tile, and etc. It’s not a wear surface and not for coatings. Ardex K15 or similar is an example of a product to use. Call them to find where you can get it locally.
Thanks again Shea!
Hi Shea,
I’m in SoCal and I plan to have an epoxy coating applied in my garage by a professional. I was dead set on 100% solids epoxy kits due to their durability and thickness until I came across a post of yours on a forum in regards to single-part polyurea coating for DIY’ers. I plan to do all of the due diligence to sand it down to a smooth surface and fill in all of the cracks with epoxy fillers. Can you please tell me what type of product you’d recommend in my case? I plan to use some flakes to give it some contrast, thanks!
I was actually looking at the following 100% solids kit:
https://coloredepoxies.com/products/colored-epoxy-resin-kit-new-images?variant=12644003119189
Eric
Hi Eric. Were you planning on installing a coating system using 100% solids epoxy or just a single coat?
Thanks for the reply Shea! I think the 100% solids require two coats? The initial coat with the color I’ve picked and a clearcoat on top? I can do whatever that’s necessary to ensure the best performance.
You should always apply an epoxy primer coat first when applying 100% solids epoxy. Colored Epoxies is a bit misleading in this regard. They state in their marketing that Colored Epoxies is a primer and finish all in one. However, when you read their application instructions they clearly state that you should apply a thin coat first in order to prevent outgassing and other cosmetic issues of the second coat. That first thin coat is a primer coat. In addition, they say to apply the second coat at 4mils (this is thin) or at a coverage rate of 150 square feet per gallon. Their math doesn’t add up. 100% solids epoxy applied at 150 square feet per gallon would provide a single coat that is over 10 mils thick. Something is not right. I would recommend calling them to find out how many gallons is needed for your square feet and what the overall thickness would be.
Vendors that specialize in garage floor coatings always break everything down so that it’s easy to understand. They include a separate epoxy primer with their kits as well. Look at this vendor here and then this vendor here. Both kits cost approximately $1.55 per square foot for both the epoxy primer and 100% solid epoxy. This will be a total thickness between 10-14 mils. This does not include the clear top coat which they both offer as well. They both also provide actual performance data for the coatings and Colored Epoxyies does not. However, they should be able to provide that if you ask.
We prefer concrete coating vendors like this because they are experienced with their products and provide excellent customer service. They can help with your application and prep questions. They are tailored to help the average DIY application. They are not the only ones either. We have a few more sponsors that provide the same type of product. Colored Epoxies business plan is not setup to help in this manner. We aren’t saying not to purchase from them. However, we have found the most DIY applications are much more successful when going with vendors who specialize in garage floor coatings.
Understood and thank you very much for the detailed reply. I will go with one of the kits that you’ve recommended.
You are welcome Eric. Another consideration we recommend as well are the kits with 93% solids epoxy. The part-A epoxy resin is still 100% solids, but the part-B hardener has a little bit of solvent added to make it easier to work with. It still performs very well. Here is an example.
Hi Shea. This website is great. Thanks for the insights. I performed a search but could not find any info on this. Do you have any thoughts about Aquapon? I have heard good reviews but not sure how it compares to a product like RockSolid. I was also told that I should put down 2 coats of product and 2 of clearcoat. I was hoping to just do 1 of clearcoat. I plan to grind the floor and not use a primer with this product. Is it OK not to use a primer with this type of product? Thanks.
Matt
Hi Matt. We are assuming you are referring to Aquapon WB EP. This is a residential quality water-based epoxy that is a bit better than the typical DIY home improvement store epoxy such as Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield. It uses the more modern epoxy formulas that do not require induction time. Like other water-based epoxy, it goes down thin and cures even thinner (2-3mils dft) after the water has evaporated out. We do not classify this type of epoxy as commercial quality that would last 10 years or more. Two color coats would be better to ensure good color uniformity and to help combat hot tire pickup. A primer is not needed. As long as you are not going with a heavy color flake application, a single coat of clear will be fine. Two will help to increase how long it wears since it will take longer to wear through the clear coat. Like most water-based epoxy of this caliber, we could not find any significant information in the data sheets in terms of abrasion ratings and other information that will tell you how well it will wear. As a result, we can’t give you a good indication of how it will wear compared to RockSolid. Our guess is that it would not be much better.
Hello, I will be moving into a new build next month and am wanting to do an epoxy floor before I get it dirty. Since it is new concrete what sort of prep d oyou recomend? Also, it is 675 sqft and I am trying to keep my total costs below $750. Basically all kits I can find sell for $1000-1200. Am I forced to go with something cheap from lowes? Seems like there are $300 kits from lowes, and $1100 kits from high end manufacturers. My desire is: Epoxy floor, flake, clear coat. Thanks for the advice!
Hello John-Michael. You need to etch the concrete at a minimum. This article here explains why. Unfortunately, for your square footage you are not going to find a quality garage floor coating system that includes epoxy primer, a high solids and very high gloss epoxy color coat, light to medium coverage color flakes, and high performance gloss clear coat for much less than $1000 including some supplies. This type of system would be approximately 15-17 mils thick and last 10-15 years before needing a new coat of clear. For approximately $400 plus all supplies you can apply one thin coat of a satin / semi-gloss EpoxyShield water-based colored epoxy with color flakes and their high gloss epoxy clear coat and hope that the one coat of color is uniform and even. It will be approximately 5-6 mils thick and last you 3-5 years before it begins to just wear out in places. This does not include possible hot tire pickup. Rust-Oleum does have a higher performing solvent-based epoxy called Rust-Oleum Professional. It would add approximately 2 mils of thickness and be more resistant to hot tire pickup. Overall price would increase approximately $150 – $200 depending on where you get it. Amazon sometimes has better prices.
When it comes to garage floor coatings, you really do get what you pay for. If you opt to go with the cheaper residential quality DIY products, you will eventually be grinding the floor to remove it down to bare concrete in order to apply the more expensive, but much longer lasting commercial quality products. I’m sure it’s not what you want to hear, but we just want you to know what to expect.
I sort of figured thats how it would be. Looks like there are decisions to be made. Thanks!
What are your thoughts on renting a floor sander from Homedepot instead of acid etch? Seems like a good way to not deal with acid.
We have an article here about grinding that covers that.