Garage floor coatings are one of the most durable, stain-resistant, and easy-to-clean decorative finishes available for garage floors and workshops today. They will protect the floor from the elements, instantly transforming your dull or ugly concrete surface into a professional-looking floor that combines beauty and functionality.
And since the garage has evolved beyond just a parking space, the benefits of concrete coatings have made them one of the most popular DIY garage flooring options today.
As a result, we will briefly explain what a garage floor coating really is. We will discuss the features, benefits, and how it is applied. More importantly, we will list the available coating options for DIY application, along with the pros and cons of each.
Additionally, we will provide excellent examples of where you can purchase quality coatings and DIY coating kits that we have reviewed and can recommend.
This article was updated in March of 2026 to reflect the most current trends and coating technology
What is A garage floor Coating?
A garage floor coating is a viscous thermosetting polymer resin that chemically crosslinks as it cures, creating a hard, durable, and chemically resistant wear surface. Epoxy, polyurethane, polyurea, and polyaspartic are the most common concrete coatings.
A catalyst activates the exothermic (releases heat) crosslinking reaction. For 2-part coatings, such as epoxy, the part-A resin/pigment is mixed with the part-B hardener, which serves as the catalyst. Moisture and/or oxygen in the air act as catalysts for single-part coatings.
Visit our Garage Flooring Gallery to view the various garage floor coating options.
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Benefits of Garage Floor Coatings
Commonly used for both residential and commercial applications, a high-quality coating or coating system will protect the concrete from oil and related automotive fluids, stains, chemicals, spills, and other substances vehicles may track into the garage.
In addition, they seal the concrete to prevent liquids, deicing fluids, and road salts from penetrating the surface and causing damage.
Most notably, coatings are very easy to clean and to keep looking clean.
Commercial-grade coatings receive high reviews from home mechanics and hobbyists. They are popular in automotive and workshop environments where rolling floor jacks, jack stands, rolling toolboxes, and other mechanical equipment are used.
Furthermore, the high gloss and lighter colors of floor coatings reflect overhead and natural light. This results in a brighter work environment that makes more efficient use of available light.
Lastly, when applied to a properly prepared concrete surface, coatings can form a strong mechanical bond, making them highly resistant to peeling and hot tires. The overall result is a decorative, scratch-resistant surface that lasts for years.
Single Coat vs Multi-Coat Garage Floor Coatings
The most durable garage floor coatings are multiple-coat systems, and the industry standard for professional installers. They are also the most popular among DIY enthusiasts who want the best protection and value for their money.
These coating systems consist of a minimum base color coat, optional decorative color flakes, and a high-performance clear topcoat. The clear coat is essential for locking in the color flakes, protecting the color coat, and extending the coating’s life and durability.
Many times, these are hybrid coating systems. In other words, the base color may be a thick, high-build epoxy coat with a polyurethane, polyurea, or polyaspartic clear top coat.
Options may include an epoxy primer coat for highly porous concrete, high-solids epoxy base coats, or other coatings. They are also used as a primer color coat for very light (white) or very dark base coat colors to achieve proper color tone.
Lastly, some are specially formulated to provide moisture-vapor-barrier protection for concrete with moisture issues.
Tan, beige, and various shades of gray are the most common base coat colors because they hide dirt best. However, high-quality coatings offer a wider range of colors for the DIY installer to choose from.
Other options include metallics and custom color-flake blends that match your style, home, or even your favorite sports team.
A more budget-friendly option for the DIY installer is a single coat application. Examples include a single color coat or a high-performance clear coat that protects and highlights the character of bare concrete.
Single coat applications are not as durable as multi-coat applications. However, they are less expensive to install and still effectively protect and seal the concrete, including stain protection. High-quality single-coat applications will also provide longer wear than budget, store-bought options.
How Thick are Garage Floor Coatings?
The overall thickness of a garage floor coating varies and depends on many factors. These include the type of coating material used, the number of coats applied, and the choice between random or full color flake coverage.
A typical commercial-grade garage floor coating system averages 8-12 mils of dry film thickness. These coating systems typically include a base color coat, partial color flake coverage, and a single clear coat. A mil is 1/1000th of an inch. Standard copy paper averages 3 mils thick for reference.
A concrete coating system that consists of an epoxy primer coat, a high-solids epoxy base color coat, full color flake coverage, and the appropriate clear coats can average 15-25 mils or more in overall thickness.
In contrast, a lower-performing single-coat kit, such as EpoxyShield by Rust-Oleum, averages only 3 mils dry film thickness. You can expect an overall thickness of 4–4.5 mils when the optional EpoxyShield Clear Coat is applied.
Are Garage Floor Coatings Slippery?
Most floor coatings are not slippery when they are dry. However, epoxy and other coatings can become slippery when wet. Typically, the glossier a coating is, the slipperier it becomes when wet.
A heavy application of color flakes can add texture to a coating and reduce slipperiness, but it is not a substitute for a slip-resistant surface. An anti-slip media is typically mixed into the final coat to achieve a non-slip surface.
Are Coatings and Garage Floor Paint the Same?
Concrete garage floor paint and 1-part epoxy paint are not the same as thermosetting garage floor coatings and provide far less protection. They are thin, water-based acrylic polymer formulations containing pigments, binders, and additives.
When applied to concrete, they dry like paint on a wall. All will peel from hot tires, generally sooner rather than later. Furthermore, they are much less wear-resistant and are only available in a satin finish.
The primary reasons for their use in a garage environment include their low price point, ease of application, and deceptive marketing tactics that prey on the average consumer’s lack of knowledge about coatings.
Of the two, 1-part epoxy paint performs better and is worth the few extra dollars per gallon. It incorporates 2-4% epoxy ester resin as an additive to enhance durability over standard paint.
DIY Garage Floor Coating Options
The choice of concrete coating materials available for DIY application has expanded in the last decade. Epoxy is no longer the only player on the field.
Some are easier to apply than others, and each has its own benefits and drawbacks that you should be aware of.
Epoxy
Epoxy has been the most common garage floor coating material for decades. It is a 2-part coating consisting of part A, an epoxy resin, and part B, a hardener/catalyst. High-solids (>85%), commercial-grade epoxy is typically 8-10 mils dry film thickness.
High-solids to 100% solids epoxy has self-leveling properties, provides an excellent build coat, and is the best medium for receiving a full-color flake application.
Epoxy is popular for use in industrial applications, warehouses, garage floors, and workshops. Return-to-service times are longer due to slower cure rates. You can walk on it in 24 hours and drive on it in 72 hours.
Epoxy Pros
- Longer curing time allows for the best adhesion to concrete
- High solids epoxy (>85%) will not peel from hot tires
- Provides the thickest build coat at 8-12 mils DFT and greater.
- Self-leveling properties
- Good impact resistance
- Best at hiding surface repairs and concrete imperfections
- Best for receiving full broadcast color flake applications
- Offers the most color options
- Excellent chemical resistance
- Good wear resistance and stain resistance
Epoxy Cons
- Shorter working time of 25 – 55 minutes
- Limited application temperatures between 60° and 85°
- Not UV stable – develops a yellow tint with exposure to sunlight
- Does not flex, making it less resistant to cracking
- Longer cure and recoat requirements add to the overall installation time
- Has increased in cost over the years
Polyurethane
Polyurethane is a thin coating with an average DFT of 2-2.5 mils. It is available in single-part and 2- part (2K) formulations. With some exceptions, it is primarily used as a final clear or colored topcoat for other coatings, such as epoxy.
Before the advent of polyurea, polyurethanes’ UV stability and superior wear, stain, and scratch resistance made it the go-to high-performance top coat for epoxy on garage floors, workshops, and in industrial applications for many years.
Newer water-based versions with low to no VOC content have become popular for indoor applications. However, they are not ideal for garage floors. They are susceptible to tire staining and to some chemicals and solvents.
Polyurethane Pros
- Great topcoat for epoxy
- UV stable
- Excellent chemical, stain, and abrasion resistance
- High gloss appearance
- Ideal for high traffic areas
- High flexibility increases abrasion resistance and impact resistance
Polyurethane Cons
- Can be finicky to apply and leave roller marks if not careful
- Sensitive to moisture and high humidity during application
- Requires multiple coats for application over full color flake floors
- Can be high in VOCs
- Moderate resistance to tire staining
Polyurea
The characteristics of polyurea are similar to those of polyurethane, but with some distinct advantages. It adheres very well to properly prepared concrete surfaces, it cures faster, and it’s thicker at 4-10 mils DFT. Polyurea is also more resistant to moisture and extreme temperatures during installation.
It used to be that only 2-part polyurea was available as a concrete floor coating and was used strictly by professional installers. Its extremely short working time of 15-20 minutes and fast curing time of 2-3 hours enabled same-day installation.
However, the arrival of single-part polyurea has been a game-changer for DIY garage floor coatings. The easy application, long working times, no mixing of components, UV stability, and extended wear have made it a favorite over epoxy.
It’s our #1 recommendation for most DIY installers looking for an incredibly durable, easy-to-apply garage floor coating system.
Single-Part Polyurea Pros
- Multiple color choices
- Excellent, clear topcoat for bare concrete or epoxy
- No mixing of A and B components
- Long working time reduces installation anxieties over other coatings
- Adheres well to properly prepared concrete
- Faster cure times = quicker return to service
- UV stable
- Excellent chemical and stain resistance
- High abrasion resistance – wears longer than epoxy or polyurethane
- Excellent impact resistance due to flexibility
- Flexible and better withstands the expansion and contraction of substrates
Single-Part Polyurea Cons
- Higher VOCs during application – NIOSH-approved respirator recommended
- Not as thick as high solids epoxy
- Won’t hide imperfections in concrete as well as epoxy
- Cannot be shipped to the South Coast Quality Air Management District
Polyaspartic
Polyaspartic is essentially an advanced type of polyurea. 100% solids polyaspartic is harder than polyurea and typically provides the best chemical, abrasion, and UV protection. It is primarily used by professional installers as a clear topcoat due to its very short working time (15-20 minutes) and quick return to service.
DIY-friendly polyaspartics have 65-80% solids content and/or slow-cure options allowing for longer working times. Depending on the solids content, it can be applied thicker than polyurea, making it an excellent choice as a clear topcoat for full color flake and outdoor applications.
It is also the most resistant to tire staining. However, the abrasion and scratch resistance of DIY-friendly polyaspartics is slightly less than that of single-part polyurea.
Polyaspartic Pros
- Excellent, clear topcoat over epoxy, polyurea, and full color flake applications
- Best UV stability
- Excellent chemical and stain resistance
- Long wear
- 2-3 mils thicker than single-part polyurea
- Shorter cure time means quicker return to service
Polyaspartic Cons
- Does not adhere to bare concrete as well
- Can be high in VOCs, similar to those of single-part polyurea
- Higher cost than single-part polyurea
- Typically not found in kit form and must be purchased separately
Moisture-Cured Urethane
Though not as common as the previously mentioned coatings, moisture-cured urethane (MCU) concrete coatings are fairly new to DIY installers. They are thin, single-part, high-performance, industrial-grade floor coatings designed to deliver exceptional durability and chemical resistance.
MCUs cure by reacting with ambient moisture in the air, creating a dense, tightly crosslinked surface that bonds aggressively to properly prepared concrete.
Newer aluminum-metallic MCU concrete coatings with long working times are becoming increasingly popular in workshops and some garages. They have high heat tolerance, making them less susceptible to welding burns. They are ideal for garages and workshops where floors are exposed to vehicle traffic, hot tires, dropped tools, oils, fuels, and heavy equipment.
Some MCUs may not require etching of the concrete before application. DuraGrade Concrete by Rust Bullet is one such example.
MCU Pros
- No mixing of A and B components
- Shorter recoat times decrease overall installation time
- Quicker return to service
- Better UV resistance than epoxy
- Excellent resistance to abrasion, chemicals, fuels, and solvents
- Excellent impact resistance
- Aluminized MCUs have high heat tolerances up to 500 degrees
- Excellent adhesion to properly prepared concrete
- Can be less expensive than some commercial coatings
MCU Cons
- Thin dry film thickness of 2-3 mils requires two or more base coats
- Some can be high in VOCs – similar to single-part polyurea
- Sensitive to moisture and excessive humidity during installation
- Can be finicky to apply and leave roller marks if not careful
- Aluminized MCUs are not as decorative and glossy
How Garage Floor Coatings are Applied
Garage floor coatings can be professionally installed or done yourself. A DIY installation can save you quite a bit on labor costs and materials. It’s not that difficult as long as you make yourself familiar with all the steps required and plan accordingly.
The first and most important step for a successful coating is preparing the concrete surface. The process involves etching or grinding the surface to create the proper profile for the coating to adhere to.
Next, concrete cracks are repaired. This includes any surface damage, such as pitting or spalling. It is important to use the appropriate concrete repair materials.
Once repairs are complete, the base color coat is applied, followed immediately by the optional color flakes. The clear coat is applied within the recoat window, after the color coat has cured for the minimum required time.
Read our complete guide on How to Apply Garage Floor Coatings
Most coatings require 24 hours before they can accept foot traffic and 48-72 hours before they can accept vehicle traffic. Some exceptions apply.
Where to Buy Commercial-Grade DIY Garage Floor Coatings
Most commercial-grade DIY concrete coatings for garage floors and workshops are purchased online from professional concrete coating vendors. These vendors provide the knowledge and experience required to assist DIY installers with all their project needs.
At All Garage Floors, we make it easy for you to find these vendors and shop for the coatings that best meet your needs and budget. Just visit our Shop Page and select a coating category.
Shop our collection of Pro-Quality Coatings from Top Vendors
Home improvement centers, hardware stores, and most paint stores typically do not sell commercial-grade concrete coatings. The primary reason is that they do not employ staff with the experience, knowledge, and time needed to provide proper customer service for such coatings.
Drawbacks to Garage Floor Coatings
As tough as garage floor coatings can be, they are not resistant to everything.
Welding is hard on floor coatings and can create burn marks from the hot slag that falls on them. In fact, metal fabrication in general can be rough on floor coatings. This is due to the tendency of heavy, sharp objects to be dragged across the surface.
If you are interested in a more utilitarian coating that makes cleanup easier while also resisting hot slag and grinding sparks, we suggest an aluminized MCU coating.
Furthermore, coatings are not a good choice for garage floors and workshops that have moisture issues from below the slab. An excessive rate of moisture vapor transmission from beneath the slab can cause coatings to delaminate.
Final Thoughts
As we mentioned, a garage floor coating can completely transform the appearance of your garage or workshop floor. It’s durable, easy to clean, highly stain-resistant, and flat out looks great.
One important point we want to make is that you genuinely get what you pay for with concrete floor coatings. If you want a budget product, you will get budget performance and looks. If you spend a bit more, you will be rewarded with a much more durable coating that performs better, lasts longer, and looks fantastic.
In the long run, it will actually save you both time and money to purchase higher quality coating products – by far.
So, whether you are turning your garage into a man cave, a working shop for car repairs and projects, or just a place to park your cars, it’s hard to beat the benefits of a quality garage floor coating system.
i would like to know how long i need to wait to apply the epoxysheld clear to the epoxysheild floor paint ?
Hi Mitchell. We are assuming when you say EpoxyShield floor paint, you actually mean the 2-part EpoxyShield epoxy garage floor coating? If so, you need to wait a minimum of 8-12 hours before recoat. You should be able to press your thumb to the surface without leaving a thumbprint. Rust-Oleum allows up to three days to apply subsequent coats (color or a clear) before you need further prep.
Anyone happen to know the epoxy color/chip color combination in the picture at the top of this article?
Hi Curtis. We have contacted Mission Builders in the past, however, they do not know what color flake combination was chosen for that floor.
I applied the Rust-Oleum RockSolid coating to my garage 6 months ago but am now concerned about slipping on it when wet. What would you suggest to put over it at this stage for non-slip? I see some options are quite expensive.
Thanks, Curt
Hello Curt. In order to retain the current looks you would need to apply a RockSolid clear coat with the an anti-slip additive added to it. Sometimes this additive comes with the kit. It would require that you degloss and rough up the current surface with 120 grit sandpaper before applying the clear coat.
HI I have prepped my concrete garage floor, used epoxy primer and then Rusto-leum Epoxy floor. It was so thin that we then used the top coat as well. It still does not have that professional look. Can we use the Rustoleum Rock Solid Polycuramine top coat over the epoxy? What about the Rock Solid textured clear top coat?
Hello Antje. What epoxy primer did you use exactly? Also, what do you mean when you said it was “thin”? Was it the color or something else?
We used Rust-Oleum epoxy primer. The color is fine but I was hoping for a thicker coating that would really enhance the concrete floor.
OK, good. I was afraid you may have used a concrete bonding primer (bad). I’m assuming that you used Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield for the color coat? If so, it only has a semi-gloss finish to the color and will not look like the professionally installed, commercial quality garage floor coatings with the glossy look. It doesn’t matter what clear coat you put over it, it not’s going to achieve the same rich look of colors and gloss. You would need to apply a glossy color coat first. The RockSolid color coat is very glossy. However, like Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield, it’s a thin mil coating. If you want thickness to go along with the gloss, then you would need to apply the proper high solids, commercial quality epoxy color coat.
Hi there, I have two spots where my garage door doesnt fully seal against the concrete garage floor which allows water to slowly seep through. From reading through all these it sounds like using a polymer-modified concrete to level the small dips in the floor is the way to go. Is that correct? Lastly, do you know any contractors in Los Angeles who can do this job? I’ve had an extremely hard time finding any concrete guys who wanna do the job or even offer that type of work.
Hi Sam. Most concrete contractors will not come to a home for small jobs like that. Also, unless you are going to be applying a garage floor coating or some other flooring over the concrete, the repairs will stand out since it’s not going to look like the original concrete. How much of a gap or low spot do you have? If you have a standard retractable overhead garage door, your bottom seal may need replacing. They are designed to compress and fill small gaps in the concrete when the door is adjusted properly. When they get old, they loose their resiliency and don’t seal very well. In addition, oversized bottom door seals are also available if you need it to conform to some bigger gaps or waviness of the floor. Lastly, you can also install a floor seal like this here. These conform to the floor and help to seal with the garage door to prevent unwanted debris and water from entering.
Thanks for the response. I am planning to do an epoxy job after it but have still had issues finding guys who’ll do both jobs. Maybe a handyman with concrete experience could do it? There’s 2 dips both small like less than 1/4″. I replaced the bottom seal. And tried programming the door to shut further down. I also tried a floor threshold like you sent but I was unable to get it to stick to the floor even after 3 days. Seemed to never fully dry so our Yukon would just slide it when we pulled into the garage. I see these oversized bottom sealers from North Shore, perhaps that’s the answer? At this point I’ve tried so many things that keep failing so I’m nervous to do any non permanent fixes… thoughts?
Really appreciate your help
If you are going to go with a garage floor coating, make sure that you hire an actual garage floor coating company or contractor. We have an article on how to choose one here. Don’t try and find a handyman, painter, or some guy who does it on the side. There is always problems with application and/or poor materials. The companies licensed and bonded to do garage floor coatings are specialists in their field. They can easily take care of spots like that by troweling in a fast cure slurry during the floor prep stage.
As far as the garage door, if the gaps are not large then a larger diameter seal will many times fix the issue. Also, if the concrete is clean and you are using the correct adhesive, a garage floor strip should not peel up. Gorilla Construction Adhesive works well for projects like that.
What temperature is OK to install the floor? It’s in the 50’s and raining here now in Southwest FL.
Hi Denise. For epoxy you need a minimum temperature of 55-60 degrees or it won’t cure. Also, the humidity has to be less than 80 – 85% depending on the manufacturer. Single-part polyurea would be a better choice if temps are an issue.
A friend just bought a home and I’m helping install some shelving. Can we install 2×4 framing directly on the epoxy, or do we need to install a vapor barrier – as we would directly on a cement floor. Thanks in advance!
Hi Rand. Yes, you can apply it directly on top of the epoxy. No vapor barrier is needed since the epoxy does not breathe and completely seals the concrete.
Thanks so much for the quick reply Shea ?
I am In the process of building a house right now. We decided to go with precolored concrete. I loved how it looked when wet and would like my sealer to bring out that look. What type of sealer would you recommend for the interior of the house that would also bring out that wet look?
Thanks.
Hi Wesley. One way to tell how concrete would look with a clear coating is to wet the surface. If you like how the surface looks wet, then a clear coating with a gloss finish will provide a similar look. DuraGrade Clear by Rust Bullet would make a good choice. It’s low in VOC’s so there is less stink for an indoor application. Plus, it’s much more abrasion resistant than typical water-based acrylics that are used indoors.
Hi Shea,
I’ve changed my mind and want to go with an epoxy coated garage floor instead of polymer modified cement. I have a 2 car garage (400 sq ft) with quite a bit of pitting (approx. 200 sq ft) and some cracks. I’m gonna rent an EDCO dual head grinder and grind everything down before starting the repairs of the pitting and cracking.
My question is, can I use a modified polymer cement (much cheaper than epoxy patch products) to repair the pitting, rough it up with light grinding and then apply an epoxy primer and topcoat? Will epoxy based products adhere to the pol. modified cement?
Thank you
Raffi
Hi Raffi. Yes, coatings will adhere to polymer-modified cement as long as it is roughed up. DO NOT use a self-leveling underlayment like you can find at your local home improvement centers. These are designed to have flooring laid over them such as wood, carpet, tile, and etc. It’s not a wear surface and not for coatings. Ardex K15 or similar is an example of a product to use. Call them to find where you can get it locally.
Thanks again Shea!
Hi Shea,
I’m in SoCal and I plan to have an epoxy coating applied in my garage by a professional. I was dead set on 100% solids epoxy kits due to their durability and thickness until I came across a post of yours on a forum in regards to single-part polyurea coating for DIY’ers. I plan to do all of the due diligence to sand it down to a smooth surface and fill in all of the cracks with epoxy fillers. Can you please tell me what type of product you’d recommend in my case? I plan to use some flakes to give it some contrast, thanks!
I was actually looking at the following 100% solids kit:
https://coloredepoxies.com/products/colored-epoxy-resin-kit-new-images?variant=12644003119189
Eric
Hi Eric. Were you planning on installing a coating system using 100% solids epoxy or just a single coat?
Thanks for the reply Shea! I think the 100% solids require two coats? The initial coat with the color I’ve picked and a clearcoat on top? I can do whatever that’s necessary to ensure the best performance.
You should always apply an epoxy primer coat first when applying 100% solids epoxy. Colored Epoxies is a bit misleading in this regard. They state in their marketing that Colored Epoxies is a primer and finish all in one. However, when you read their application instructions they clearly state that you should apply a thin coat first in order to prevent outgassing and other cosmetic issues of the second coat. That first thin coat is a primer coat. In addition, they say to apply the second coat at 4mils (this is thin) or at a coverage rate of 150 square feet per gallon. Their math doesn’t add up. 100% solids epoxy applied at 150 square feet per gallon would provide a single coat that is over 10 mils thick. Something is not right. I would recommend calling them to find out how many gallons is needed for your square feet and what the overall thickness would be.
Vendors that specialize in garage floor coatings always break everything down so that it’s easy to understand. They include a separate epoxy primer with their kits as well. Look at this vendor here and then this vendor here. Both kits cost approximately $1.55 per square foot for both the epoxy primer and 100% solid epoxy. This will be a total thickness between 10-14 mils. This does not include the clear top coat which they both offer as well. They both also provide actual performance data for the coatings and Colored Epoxyies does not. However, they should be able to provide that if you ask.
We prefer concrete coating vendors like this because they are experienced with their products and provide excellent customer service. They can help with your application and prep questions. They are tailored to help the average DIY application. They are not the only ones either. We have a few more sponsors that provide the same type of product. Colored Epoxies business plan is not setup to help in this manner. We aren’t saying not to purchase from them. However, we have found the most DIY applications are much more successful when going with vendors who specialize in garage floor coatings.
Understood and thank you very much for the detailed reply. I will go with one of the kits that you’ve recommended.
You are welcome Eric. Another consideration we recommend as well are the kits with 93% solids epoxy. The part-A epoxy resin is still 100% solids, but the part-B hardener has a little bit of solvent added to make it easier to work with. It still performs very well. Here is an example.
Hi Shea. This website is great. Thanks for the insights. I performed a search but could not find any info on this. Do you have any thoughts about Aquapon? I have heard good reviews but not sure how it compares to a product like RockSolid. I was also told that I should put down 2 coats of product and 2 of clearcoat. I was hoping to just do 1 of clearcoat. I plan to grind the floor and not use a primer with this product. Is it OK not to use a primer with this type of product? Thanks.
Matt
Hi Matt. We are assuming you are referring to Aquapon WB EP. This is a residential quality water-based epoxy that is a bit better than the typical DIY home improvement store epoxy such as Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield. It uses the more modern epoxy formulas that do not require induction time. Like other water-based epoxy, it goes down thin and cures even thinner (2-3mils dft) after the water has evaporated out. We do not classify this type of epoxy as commercial quality that would last 10 years or more. Two color coats would be better to ensure good color uniformity and to help combat hot tire pickup. A primer is not needed. As long as you are not going with a heavy color flake application, a single coat of clear will be fine. Two will help to increase how long it wears since it will take longer to wear through the clear coat. Like most water-based epoxy of this caliber, we could not find any significant information in the data sheets in terms of abrasion ratings and other information that will tell you how well it will wear. As a result, we can’t give you a good indication of how it will wear compared to RockSolid. Our guess is that it would not be much better.
Hello, I will be moving into a new build next month and am wanting to do an epoxy floor before I get it dirty. Since it is new concrete what sort of prep d oyou recomend? Also, it is 675 sqft and I am trying to keep my total costs below $750. Basically all kits I can find sell for $1000-1200. Am I forced to go with something cheap from lowes? Seems like there are $300 kits from lowes, and $1100 kits from high end manufacturers. My desire is: Epoxy floor, flake, clear coat. Thanks for the advice!
Hello John-Michael. You need to etch the concrete at a minimum. This article here explains why. Unfortunately, for your square footage you are not going to find a quality garage floor coating system that includes epoxy primer, a high solids and very high gloss epoxy color coat, light to medium coverage color flakes, and high performance gloss clear coat for much less than $1000 including some supplies. This type of system would be approximately 15-17 mils thick and last 10-15 years before needing a new coat of clear. For approximately $400 plus all supplies you can apply one thin coat of a satin / semi-gloss EpoxyShield water-based colored epoxy with color flakes and their high gloss epoxy clear coat and hope that the one coat of color is uniform and even. It will be approximately 5-6 mils thick and last you 3-5 years before it begins to just wear out in places. This does not include possible hot tire pickup. Rust-Oleum does have a higher performing solvent-based epoxy called Rust-Oleum Professional. It would add approximately 2 mils of thickness and be more resistant to hot tire pickup. Overall price would increase approximately $150 – $200 depending on where you get it. Amazon sometimes has better prices.
When it comes to garage floor coatings, you really do get what you pay for. If you opt to go with the cheaper residential quality DIY products, you will eventually be grinding the floor to remove it down to bare concrete in order to apply the more expensive, but much longer lasting commercial quality products. I’m sure it’s not what you want to hear, but we just want you to know what to expect.
I sort of figured thats how it would be. Looks like there are decisions to be made. Thanks!
What are your thoughts on renting a floor sander from Homedepot instead of acid etch? Seems like a good way to not deal with acid.
We have an article here about grinding that covers that.
I applied epoxy to my garage floor 17 years ago and I would like to add another coat as it has faded. It is still well adhered to the floor. Do I need to etch or prep the surface in any special way? Thanks for any insight you may have.
Hi John. We have an article here that discusses the process.
Do I need to etch my brand new concrete that has not even been walked on yet?
Hello Nick. Yes. New concrete requires the proper prep just as older concrete does. This article here explains why.
Hi there,
I’ve been getting requests to epoxy front porches from customers of my garage flooring service. I use 100% solids based epoxy with primer / base / full broadcast and a clear top coat with anti slip.
Would this system work on front porch? Is there a better grip than shark grip? Is there special epoxy for porches vs garage floors?
Thanks
Hi Ramsey. The problem with using epoxy on porches is that it’s not U.V. stable and will amber. If exposed to direct sunlight it can even begin to chalk up and deteriorate. As you may know, color flakes are U.V. stable and a full broadcast will protect the epoxy underneath. If you applied a U.V. stable clear coat, then you would be in much better shape. Polyurea, polyurethane or polyaspartic would be a good example. You may want to consider applying a polyurea system instead. Here is an example of single-part polyurea. SharkGrip is a fine grit anti-slip. You can purchased something more coarse if you need it. Here is an example.
Hello. I used the epoxyshield 2part coating kit on my garage floor. For the clear top coat I have purchased Daich Dai-hard 100 industrial clear epoxy. It was less than half the price of the epoxy shield brand and had good reviews. I haven’t applied it yet and am wondering what the risk is of mixing brands. I have been recommended not to do that, but I figure that since they are both epoxy the risk will be minimal. I was going to mix a small batch for a test but the two parts do not have their volumes marked so I do not know how to mix smaller portions properly. Thanks in advance.
Hi Anthony. Yes, The Daich Dai-Hard 100 will work. It’s actually a better quality clear coat than EpoxyShield. If the color coat has been down for more than 24 hours, it will require that you degloss the surface first with 120 grit sandpaper before applying an additional coating.
Hi there,
I applied an epoxy coating on a garage floor. I also did a full broadcast of a single coloured flake.
However there are alot of areas where I can see the epoxy colour which is more blue than the flake that is gray.
Before applying my top coat, can I colour match the flakes with a paint of some sort as to hide this colour difference, and then apply a top coat? Will the top coat adhere to the paint properly? Is there a chance that the paint would not adhere to the paint flakes?
Hi Ramzi. It takes a much larger application of color flakes that people realize for a full broadcast. We recommend mixing up a small batch of your clear and applying to those areas and toss the flakes into that to properly cover everything. Once those areas have cured sufficiently, you can then apply the clear coat.
Hi Shea,
I did as instructed, the flakes were scraped but you can see some gloss residue from the epoxy clear.
My next step is to apply a polyurethane top coat. Will this make the whole floor uniform in gloss, or do I have to cover the whole area with a clear epoxy coat first and then top coat?
Once you apply the next clear coat the finish should be uniform throughout.
We just had an epoxy flake finish applied to our garage floor, and although it’s glossy it has a rough prickly feel to the skin? Is this a normal finish for epoxy flake or should it feel glossy smooth?
Hi Belinda. We are guessing that you opted for a full color flake floor? If so, it’s going to have a rougher texture unless you add more clear coats. This is fairly normal.
I had a contractor (painter) complete an “epoxy” job in my garage; however… I was not pleased!
He finished too quickly for the surface to be properly etched IMO.
They used a 1 part epoxy paint..
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-PREMIUM-5-gal-Slate-Gray-Self-Priming-1-Part-Epoxy-Satin-Interior-Exterior-Concrete-and-Garage-Floor-Paint-90205/308800275
Question: if I want to redo this using a 2 part epoxy, will I need to sand up the flooring that has been painted? If it is considered cured, could I just lay the 2 part epoxy over it?
Hi SD. What was applied was latex acrylic concrete paint with a little bit of epoxy resin added to increase durability – AKA 1-part epoxy paint. It’s not a true epoxy coating. This article explains the difference. If you want to apply a quality epoxy coating, then you need to remove the paint via grinding. Your coating is only as good as what it is adhered to. Paint peels under tires. If you apply epoxy over it, then the epoxy will pull the paint up from the concrete.
Just as an FYI for our readers and as you unfortunately found out, painters are not garage floor coating specialists. They are great for painting the interior and exterior of your home, but the large majority don’t know much about concrete coatings. For those who want to hire someone, make sure they are a concrete coating specialist. This article here explains more.
Lessons learned! Thanks for the information.
He is coming back on Tuesday to rectify the situation; I’m going to break the news to him!
Thanks again.
Hi Shea
I’ve been installing floors for a few years now and have had a wierd issue happen.
Installing full flake system, primer , base coat, flakes and siloxane epoxy clear top coat. 600 sq ft garage.
Everything cured well, but have one section around 3 x 10 ft, near the side door entrance where the top coat has stayed tacky (not gooey, but like duct tape) now for 2 days. Any idea how to remedy this?
Hi Ramsey. What were the current temps of the floor and air when the epoxy was applied? We’ve seen this before when cold air seeped in under doors and cooled the epoxy surface near the door below specs. This will make the surface feel tacky because the curing essentially stopped. Our recommendation is to call the manufacturer and talk with a rep about the issue. They should be able to help solve the issue.
i have a 1 month old new concrete poured in my garage(414sqft garage). I was planning to do Rustoleum Rock solid 2.5 car polycuramine and after 12 hrs of application i was thinking of putting Rexthane I or Rexthane II(i dont know the difference) as clear coat.
My second option is using 650 SL/RC and then using Rexthane I or Rexthane II as clear coat.
which option is better(cost/quality wise). I am in California so may have some restrictions on product availability?
650 SL/RC gives 10-40mils thick coat
Rustoleum Polycuramine will give 3-4mils thick coat.
not sure whats the difference between these two products
Hi Amy. You are comparing apples, oranges, and pears. Rust-Oleum RockSolid is a residential quality, DIY polycuramine coating with an average DFT of 3 mils. It has not been approved or intended by Rust-Oleum to mix with any other products. It has a working time of over an hour and a coverage rate of 200-250 square feet per kit. Sherwin-William ArmorSeal 650 SL/RC is a 99% solids, commercial quality, industrial coating. Important to note is that you need to purchase the part-A and part-B components separately. It has a working time of 30 minutes and will cover 160 square feet per gallon at the minimum DFT of 10 mils. In addition, it will require an aggressive acid etch or grinding of the concrete surface. An epoxy primer applied beforehand is highly recommended. Sherwin Williams recommends Armorseal 33 epoxy primer. Rexthane 1 and Rexthane II are single-part moisture-cured polyurethanes. Rexthane I has a higher solids content, but the abrasion and chemical resistance ratings are not published. Rexthane II is an average performing polyurethane. RockSolid clear coat has better abrasion ratings (longer wear) than Rexthane and would be the recommended clear coat for RockSolid.
Based on reviews Rocksolid clear coat goes pale over time
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/rocksolid/garage-floor-kits/polycuramine-clear-top-coating-kit
is there any alternative top clear coat to use with Rocksolid polycuramine?
The link you provided leads to their product page, Amy. There are no reviews. You may want to read our article on RockSolid. We have updated it with known issues that people complain about. In addition, there are hundreds of comments and questions that we have answered. The biggest complaint is that the product is too thin and the color coat can look blotchy and dull. It requires a second coat to rectify the issue. We have never heard of RockSolid clear going pale. However, epoxy and polycuramine (RockSolid) are not U.V. stable and can amber (yellow tint) if exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight over a period of time. A U.V. stable clear coat will prevent this from happening if applied over a RockSolid color coat. If you went with a different manufacturer, it would first require waiting a minimum of 48 hours for the RockSolid color coat to cure enough. You would then degloss the surface with 120 grit sandpaper to provide a mechanical profile that the clear coat can adhere to. No testing has been done to show that other products will chemically bond to it satisfactorily.
There are much better alternatives to RockSolid. You mentioned VOCs. Do you live in an SCAQMD district in California? Most quality clear coatings are going to be solvent-based to some degree. We may be able to make a much better performing garage floor coating system for you.
No, i am in alameda county
I am interested in knowing alternatives to Rocksolid. There is too much information available on internet which is confusing. Please suggest something with in same price range.
You will not get a high-quality, U.V. stable, and long wearing floor coating system in that price range, Amy. We discuss the pitfalls of home improvement store coating kits here. RockSolid wears fairly well and usually does not suffer hot tire pickup, but it has many complaints about cosmetic issues and sometimes requires two color coats. You will need to spend a little more if that is what you want. Roll On Rock is a commercial quality kit that is a very good value for what you get. It would be roughly the same price as RockSolid (and 3x as thick) if your floor required two color coats of RockSolid.
I am not sure if i will need 2 coats. concrete on my garage is 4 weeks old and size is approx 415sq feet. Does Roll on Rock kit include Clear coat as well? or does that need to be purchased separately?
Also how do we decide if we need one coat or two?
The age of the concrete makes no difference. Much depends on the surface texture and porosity. Once the color coat begins to cure, if you notice a difference in color tone, richness, and gloss, it’s going to need two coats. Yes, Roll On Rock comes with a clear coat. It’s all detailed in the article. It’s a night and day difference between the two systems.
Spoke to Roll on Rock customer service today and found out that entire garage floor needs to be covered with chips with no visibility of base coat or else it will show yellow marks. this is certainly will give different look than rust oleum rock solid where we have chips spread across floor with visible base coat.
Hi Amy. Sorry for the late response. Yes, Roll On Rock requires that you do a full color flake broadcast. This is the typical look that professional garage floor coating companies provide. The color flakes are U.V. stable as is the clear coat. In addition, the thick layer of color flakes provides more durability. If you elect to use Roll On Rock, it’s important that you scrape the upper layer of flakes to get them as smooth as you can before applying the clear coat.
What should I use in a basement that cat urine feces smell won’t go away after cleaning I want to seal it don’t care what it looks like
Hello Terrie. First, we recommend that you read our article on how to rid concrete of pet urine odors. There are many testimonials in the comments sections about how well it works. Next, you need to determine if your basement has moisture vapor that transfers up from below the slab. This is common for basements and coatings do not tolerate it well. It can cause them to peel since the moisture vapor is caught under the coating. In addition, moisture is what activates urine crystals in concrete and causes the smell. We have an article here about moisture testing. If your basement floor does not have a moisture issue, then you can use a water-based epoxy such as EpoxyShield.