Garage floor coatings are one of the most durable, stain-resistant, and easy-to-clean decorative finishes available for garage floors and workshops today. They will protect the floor from the elements, instantly transforming your dull or ugly concrete surface into a professional-looking floor that combines beauty and functionality.
And since the garage has evolved beyond just a parking space, the benefits of concrete coatings have made them one of the most popular DIY garage flooring options today.
As a result, we will briefly explain what a garage floor coating really is. We will discuss the features, benefits, and how it is applied. More importantly, we will list the available coating options for DIY application, along with the pros and cons of each.
Additionally, we will provide excellent examples of where you can purchase quality coatings and DIY coating kits that we have reviewed and can recommend.
This article was updated in March of 2026 to reflect the most current trends and coating technology
What is A garage floor Coating?
A garage floor coating is a viscous thermosetting polymer resin that chemically crosslinks as it cures, creating a hard, durable, and chemically resistant wear surface. Epoxy, polyurethane, polyurea, and polyaspartic are the most common concrete coatings.
A catalyst activates the exothermic (releases heat) crosslinking reaction. For 2-part coatings, such as epoxy, the part-A resin/pigment is mixed with the part-B hardener, which serves as the catalyst. Moisture and/or oxygen in the air act as catalysts for single-part coatings.
Visit our Garage Flooring Gallery to view the various garage floor coating options.
Shop our collection of Pro-Quality Coatings from Top Vendors
Benefits of Garage Floor Coatings
Commonly used for both residential and commercial applications, a high-quality coating or coating system will protect the concrete from oil and related automotive fluids, stains, chemicals, spills, and other substances vehicles may track into the garage.
In addition, they seal the concrete to prevent liquids, deicing fluids, and road salts from penetrating the surface and causing damage.
Most notably, coatings are very easy to clean and to keep looking clean.
Commercial-grade coatings receive high reviews from home mechanics and hobbyists. They are popular in automotive and workshop environments where rolling floor jacks, jack stands, rolling toolboxes, and other mechanical equipment are used.
Furthermore, the high gloss and lighter colors of floor coatings reflect overhead and natural light. This results in a brighter work environment that makes more efficient use of available light.
Lastly, when applied to a properly prepared concrete surface, coatings can form a strong mechanical bond, making them highly resistant to peeling and hot tires. The overall result is a decorative, scratch-resistant surface that lasts for years.
Single Coat vs Multi-Coat Garage Floor Coatings
The most durable garage floor coatings are multiple-coat systems, and the industry standard for professional installers. They are also the most popular among DIY enthusiasts who want the best protection and value for their money.
These coating systems consist of a minimum base color coat, optional decorative color flakes, and a high-performance clear topcoat. The clear coat is essential for locking in the color flakes, protecting the color coat, and extending the coating’s life and durability.
Many times, these are hybrid coating systems. In other words, the base color may be a thick, high-build epoxy coat with a polyurethane, polyurea, or polyaspartic clear top coat.
Options may include an epoxy primer coat for highly porous concrete, high-solids epoxy base coats, or other coatings. They are also used as a primer color coat for very light (white) or very dark base coat colors to achieve proper color tone.
Lastly, some are specially formulated to provide moisture-vapor-barrier protection for concrete with moisture issues.
Tan, beige, and various shades of gray are the most common base coat colors because they hide dirt best. However, high-quality coatings offer a wider range of colors for the DIY installer to choose from.
Other options include metallics and custom color-flake blends that match your style, home, or even your favorite sports team.
A more budget-friendly option for the DIY installer is a single coat application. Examples include a single color coat or a high-performance clear coat that protects and highlights the character of bare concrete.
Single coat applications are not as durable as multi-coat applications. However, they are less expensive to install and still effectively protect and seal the concrete, including stain protection. High-quality single-coat applications will also provide longer wear than budget, store-bought options.
How Thick are Garage Floor Coatings?
The overall thickness of a garage floor coating varies and depends on many factors. These include the type of coating material used, the number of coats applied, and the choice between random or full color flake coverage.
A typical commercial-grade garage floor coating system averages 8-12 mils of dry film thickness. These coating systems typically include a base color coat, partial color flake coverage, and a single clear coat. A mil is 1/1000th of an inch. Standard copy paper averages 3 mils thick for reference.
A concrete coating system that consists of an epoxy primer coat, a high-solids epoxy base color coat, full color flake coverage, and the appropriate clear coats can average 15-25 mils or more in overall thickness.
In contrast, a lower-performing single-coat kit, such as EpoxyShield by Rust-Oleum, averages only 3 mils dry film thickness. You can expect an overall thickness of 4–4.5 mils when the optional EpoxyShield Clear Coat is applied.
Are Garage Floor Coatings Slippery?
Most floor coatings are not slippery when they are dry. However, epoxy and other coatings can become slippery when wet. Typically, the glossier a coating is, the slipperier it becomes when wet.
A heavy application of color flakes can add texture to a coating and reduce slipperiness, but it is not a substitute for a slip-resistant surface. An anti-slip media is typically mixed into the final coat to achieve a non-slip surface.
Are Coatings and Garage Floor Paint the Same?
Concrete garage floor paint and 1-part epoxy paint are not the same as thermosetting garage floor coatings and provide far less protection. They are thin, water-based acrylic polymer formulations containing pigments, binders, and additives.
When applied to concrete, they dry like paint on a wall. All will peel from hot tires, generally sooner rather than later. Furthermore, they are much less wear-resistant and are only available in a satin finish.
The primary reasons for their use in a garage environment include their low price point, ease of application, and deceptive marketing tactics that prey on the average consumer’s lack of knowledge about coatings.
Of the two, 1-part epoxy paint performs better and is worth the few extra dollars per gallon. It incorporates 2-4% epoxy ester resin as an additive to enhance durability over standard paint.
DIY Garage Floor Coating Options
The choice of concrete coating materials available for DIY application has expanded in the last decade. Epoxy is no longer the only player on the field.
Some are easier to apply than others, and each has its own benefits and drawbacks that you should be aware of.
Epoxy
Epoxy has been the most common garage floor coating material for decades. It is a 2-part coating consisting of part A, an epoxy resin, and part B, a hardener/catalyst. High-solids (>85%), commercial-grade epoxy is typically 8-10 mils dry film thickness.
High-solids to 100% solids epoxy has self-leveling properties, provides an excellent build coat, and is the best medium for receiving a full-color flake application.
Epoxy is popular for use in industrial applications, warehouses, garage floors, and workshops. Return-to-service times are longer due to slower cure rates. You can walk on it in 24 hours and drive on it in 72 hours.
Epoxy Pros
- Longer curing time allows for the best adhesion to concrete
- High solids epoxy (>85%) will not peel from hot tires
- Provides the thickest build coat at 8-12 mils DFT and greater.
- Self-leveling properties
- Good impact resistance
- Best at hiding surface repairs and concrete imperfections
- Best for receiving full broadcast color flake applications
- Offers the most color options
- Excellent chemical resistance
- Good wear resistance and stain resistance
Epoxy Cons
- Shorter working time of 25 – 55 minutes
- Limited application temperatures between 60° and 85°
- Not UV stable – develops a yellow tint with exposure to sunlight
- Does not flex, making it less resistant to cracking
- Longer cure and recoat requirements add to the overall installation time
- Has increased in cost over the years
Polyurethane
Polyurethane is a thin coating with an average DFT of 2-2.5 mils. It is available in single-part and 2- part (2K) formulations. With some exceptions, it is primarily used as a final clear or colored topcoat for other coatings, such as epoxy.
Before the advent of polyurea, polyurethanes’ UV stability and superior wear, stain, and scratch resistance made it the go-to high-performance top coat for epoxy on garage floors, workshops, and in industrial applications for many years.
Newer water-based versions with low to no VOC content have become popular for indoor applications. However, they are not ideal for garage floors. They are susceptible to tire staining and to some chemicals and solvents.
Polyurethane Pros
- Great topcoat for epoxy
- UV stable
- Excellent chemical, stain, and abrasion resistance
- High gloss appearance
- Ideal for high traffic areas
- High flexibility increases abrasion resistance and impact resistance
Polyurethane Cons
- Can be finicky to apply and leave roller marks if not careful
- Sensitive to moisture and high humidity during application
- Requires multiple coats for application over full color flake floors
- Can be high in VOCs
- Moderate resistance to tire staining
Polyurea
The characteristics of polyurea are similar to those of polyurethane, but with some distinct advantages. It adheres very well to properly prepared concrete surfaces, it cures faster, and it’s thicker at 4-10 mils DFT. Polyurea is also more resistant to moisture and extreme temperatures during installation.
It used to be that only 2-part polyurea was available as a concrete floor coating and was used strictly by professional installers. Its extremely short working time of 15-20 minutes and fast curing time of 2-3 hours enabled same-day installation.
However, the arrival of single-part polyurea has been a game-changer for DIY garage floor coatings. The easy application, long working times, no mixing of components, UV stability, and extended wear have made it a favorite over epoxy.
It’s our #1 recommendation for most DIY installers looking for an incredibly durable, easy-to-apply garage floor coating system.
Single-Part Polyurea Pros
- Multiple color choices
- Excellent, clear topcoat for bare concrete or epoxy
- No mixing of A and B components
- Long working time reduces installation anxieties over other coatings
- Adheres well to properly prepared concrete
- Faster cure times = quicker return to service
- UV stable
- Excellent chemical and stain resistance
- High abrasion resistance – wears longer than epoxy or polyurethane
- Excellent impact resistance due to flexibility
- Flexible and better withstands the expansion and contraction of substrates
Single-Part Polyurea Cons
- Higher VOCs during application – NIOSH-approved respirator recommended
- Not as thick as high solids epoxy
- Won’t hide imperfections in concrete as well as epoxy
- Cannot be shipped to the South Coast Quality Air Management District
Polyaspartic
Polyaspartic is essentially an advanced type of polyurea. 100% solids polyaspartic is harder than polyurea and typically provides the best chemical, abrasion, and UV protection. It is primarily used by professional installers as a clear topcoat due to its very short working time (15-20 minutes) and quick return to service.
DIY-friendly polyaspartics have 65-80% solids content and/or slow-cure options allowing for longer working times. Depending on the solids content, it can be applied thicker than polyurea, making it an excellent choice as a clear topcoat for full color flake and outdoor applications.
It is also the most resistant to tire staining. However, the abrasion and scratch resistance of DIY-friendly polyaspartics is slightly less than that of single-part polyurea.
Polyaspartic Pros
- Excellent, clear topcoat over epoxy, polyurea, and full color flake applications
- Best UV stability
- Excellent chemical and stain resistance
- Long wear
- 2-3 mils thicker than single-part polyurea
- Shorter cure time means quicker return to service
Polyaspartic Cons
- Does not adhere to bare concrete as well
- Can be high in VOCs, similar to those of single-part polyurea
- Higher cost than single-part polyurea
- Typically not found in kit form and must be purchased separately
Moisture-Cured Urethane
Though not as common as the previously mentioned coatings, moisture-cured urethane (MCU) concrete coatings are fairly new to DIY installers. They are thin, single-part, high-performance, industrial-grade floor coatings designed to deliver exceptional durability and chemical resistance.
MCUs cure by reacting with ambient moisture in the air, creating a dense, tightly crosslinked surface that bonds aggressively to properly prepared concrete.
Newer aluminum-metallic MCU concrete coatings with long working times are becoming increasingly popular in workshops and some garages. They have high heat tolerance, making them less susceptible to welding burns. They are ideal for garages and workshops where floors are exposed to vehicle traffic, hot tires, dropped tools, oils, fuels, and heavy equipment.
Some MCUs may not require etching of the concrete before application. DuraGrade Concrete by Rust Bullet is one such example.
MCU Pros
- No mixing of A and B components
- Shorter recoat times decrease overall installation time
- Quicker return to service
- Better UV resistance than epoxy
- Excellent resistance to abrasion, chemicals, fuels, and solvents
- Excellent impact resistance
- Aluminized MCUs have high heat tolerances up to 500 degrees
- Excellent adhesion to properly prepared concrete
- Can be less expensive than some commercial coatings
MCU Cons
- Thin dry film thickness of 2-3 mils requires two or more base coats
- Some can be high in VOCs – similar to single-part polyurea
- Sensitive to moisture and excessive humidity during installation
- Can be finicky to apply and leave roller marks if not careful
- Aluminized MCUs are not as decorative and glossy
How Garage Floor Coatings are Applied
Garage floor coatings can be professionally installed or done yourself. A DIY installation can save you quite a bit on labor costs and materials. It’s not that difficult as long as you make yourself familiar with all the steps required and plan accordingly.
The first and most important step for a successful coating is preparing the concrete surface. The process involves etching or grinding the surface to create the proper profile for the coating to adhere to.
Next, concrete cracks are repaired. This includes any surface damage, such as pitting or spalling. It is important to use the appropriate concrete repair materials.
Once repairs are complete, the base color coat is applied, followed immediately by the optional color flakes. The clear coat is applied within the recoat window, after the color coat has cured for the minimum required time.
Read our complete guide on How to Apply Garage Floor Coatings
Most coatings require 24 hours before they can accept foot traffic and 48-72 hours before they can accept vehicle traffic. Some exceptions apply.
Where to Buy Commercial-Grade DIY Garage Floor Coatings
Most commercial-grade DIY concrete coatings for garage floors and workshops are purchased online from professional concrete coating vendors. These vendors provide the knowledge and experience required to assist DIY installers with all their project needs.
At All Garage Floors, we make it easy for you to find these vendors and shop for the coatings that best meet your needs and budget. Just visit our Shop Page and select a coating category.
Shop our collection of Pro-Quality Coatings from Top Vendors
Home improvement centers, hardware stores, and most paint stores typically do not sell commercial-grade concrete coatings. The primary reason is that they do not employ staff with the experience, knowledge, and time needed to provide proper customer service for such coatings.
Drawbacks to Garage Floor Coatings
As tough as garage floor coatings can be, they are not resistant to everything.
Welding is hard on floor coatings and can create burn marks from the hot slag that falls on them. In fact, metal fabrication in general can be rough on floor coatings. This is due to the tendency of heavy, sharp objects to be dragged across the surface.
If you are interested in a more utilitarian coating that makes cleanup easier while also resisting hot slag and grinding sparks, we suggest an aluminized MCU coating.
Furthermore, coatings are not a good choice for garage floors and workshops that have moisture issues from below the slab. An excessive rate of moisture vapor transmission from beneath the slab can cause coatings to delaminate.
Final Thoughts
As we mentioned, a garage floor coating can completely transform the appearance of your garage or workshop floor. It’s durable, easy to clean, highly stain-resistant, and flat out looks great.
One important point we want to make is that you genuinely get what you pay for with concrete floor coatings. If you want a budget product, you will get budget performance and looks. If you spend a bit more, you will be rewarded with a much more durable coating that performs better, lasts longer, and looks fantastic.
In the long run, it will actually save you both time and money to purchase higher quality coating products – by far.
So, whether you are turning your garage into a man cave, a working shop for car repairs and projects, or just a place to park your cars, it’s hard to beat the benefits of a quality garage floor coating system.
How long must concrete be poured prior to applying this surface?
Hello Julie. New concrete needs to cure for a minimum of 30 days before applying a coating.
All concrete should be cured for at least 28 days as that is the standard time in the industry to do so. In addition if you are having it poured, definitely think about installing a vapor barrier under your slab or even integrally to make your epoxy garage floor last.
I have air bubbles in the top coat sealer. The installer said to use a broom it will knock them down and the sealer is not compromised. Is this correct?
Hello Travis. Bubbles in a top coat is an installation error. In most cases nothing can be done to fix them other than sand the bubbles out after it cures and recoat. A broom may knock down a few bubbles immediately after it has been rolled while the coating is still fluid, but it won’t produce satisfactory results.
Thank you for your response. Should the entire floor be recoated or just the sanded spots? Do have recommendations of how to convince contractor knocking the bubbles down is not the solution?
You would need to recoat the entire surface Travis. Coatings do not blend well like paint on a wall. It would be very obvious and stand out where you applied a new coat to certain areas of the floor. The entire surface would need to be deglossed by roughing it up with 100 grit sandpaper before recoating. The areas with bubbles may need 80 grit in order to sand them down. Again, knocking down bubbles can only be attempted during the application process. It can’t be done once the coating has started to cure. They are induced in top coats by poor mixing and/or rolling techniques. We are guessing that the contractor does not specialize in floor coatings only and is more of a general contractor? If so, this explains their lack of knowledge regarding how to treat bubbles. Extremely thick coatings for commercial use require a porcupine roller to prevent bubbles, but it doesn’t sound like you are dealing with such a coating.
Hello, I put an epoxy coat in my basement and didn’t see small crack, which is placed in the center and is quite visible, so, can I repair it without putting another coat over all basement, but just this spot?
Hello Aki. You can repair the crack and apply epoxy over that area, but it will stand out and be obvious unless you recoat the entire floor. Epoxy coatings, due to their thickness, do not blend in like paint on a wall.
Is it possible to use epoxy in a basement?
As long as you don’t have moisture issues Laura, you can do an epoxy coating in a basement. We suggest reading how to moisture test to get a better idea if your basement is suited or not for epoxy.
hi, can I use an epoxy coating on an asphalt garage floor? if not, what type of coating or paint would you recommend?
No, epoxy cannot be used on asphalt. Asphalt is a petroleum product and can’t be coated.
I have a type of vinyl flooring in our shop office and want to be able to cover it. Are there certain surfaces that won’t work?
Epoxy is not the best choice Leah. While it can be done, it can be more expensive due to the fact that it will require a few coats of commercial quality 100% solids to fill all the voids and create a smooth finish. Most manufactures don’t warranty for installation over vinyl either. Epoxy really is best for concrete and some wood surfaces.
I moved into a new home 8 years ago where the garage floor had already been coated with epoxy. There are a few small isolated spots where the epoxy had disappeared over the years. I was generally pleased with the appearance of the floor with that exception. However, when the floor was wet, it was very slippery.
I just had a tornado shelter installed in the garage,, and that process left quite a few dings/scratches, as well as some new concrete. Can a new coating be applied over this old epoxy and the new concrete when it cures? I understand that there is also an additive which can reduce the slipperiness.
The new concrete will need to cure for 28 days before you can apply a coating Rob. You will need to prep the new concrete by etching or grinding. As long as the old epoxy is adhered well, you can sand it rough with 100 grit sandpaper to provide mechanical bite for a new coating. We have an article on anti-slip additives which you can read here. Just be sure to use on the final coat.
I just wanted to say thank you for keeping such a great site. I bet I spent 30-40 hours reading!
I took advantage of the 3-day weekend and put a polyaspartic coating on my 17 year old floors. Full blog post is here (https://sylvia1967blog.wordpress.com/2017/05/30/may-29th-2017/), but most of the post is not about the actual epoxy, so scroll down if you want to see the good and the bad of the results.
I used 4.5 gallons from EpoxyMaster (their customer service is AWESOME!), was just enough quantity-wise to cover, but temperatures were 75-78 degrees at 7:00AM so time was my biggest problem not coverage. The epoxy did coat vertical surfaces but not thick like the flat surface, so some paint drips from the walls show through. Overall I am extremely happy for my DIY job, a few problems that a pro could have missed or avoided, but I saved $3,000-$4,000 so all is good!
Great job on the floor Ed! We left the link in your comment so people can see all your images and how you tackled your project. Yes, their customer service is very good. For those interested, we have an article about EpoxyMaster which you can read here.
I have applied a one-coat, high solid epoxy in grey to a freshly poured garage. However, I have splotches of coloring that I would like to re-coat with a second coat of the epoxy. Is there any issues or concerns? Should I rough sand?
Thanks very much.
Hi Jim. I think we just answered your question about polyurethane as well. If it’s been less than 24 hours you can apply another coat without prep. However, if you are outside the 24 hour window, it will require deglossing the surface by roughing it up with 100-125 grit sandpaper before applying a second coat. We suggest contacting the manufacturer or reading the technical data sheets to confirm your recoat times.
Technique question. For the final clear top-coat how do I avoid getting stripes in the application? One garage will need re-doing because of rough/smooth striping. My guess is uneven pressure was applied.
Hello John. It’s important to backroll the clear coat at 90 degrees from the direction of application. Don’t add additional pressure to the roller to squeeze out more coating either.
I am looking to finish my garage floor with the best possible coating. My floor has already been painted with some type of paint. I have some spots where the paint is flaking off. How much of the paint do I have to remove before applying anything new? I want something that will last for years
Hello Paul. If you want to install a good quality commercial coating, then you need to remove all the existing paint on the floor. Grinding the concrete is the best method and it will prep your floor for the coating at the same time. There are many great coating systems that you can install – none of which you find at a home improvement center. Most are purchased from garage flooring vendors online. Roll On Rock is and example, Nohr-s is another, and so is EpoxyMaster. In fact, there are many more. Garage Flooring LLC has a good system as well that is user friendly.
I was kinda hoping I wouldn’t have to remove paint but it makes sense. What is your favorite covering at this time? I read your article on Rust Bucket. I think that was the name. I dont want to go back and lose my place at this time. I want something to stick and last for years. I am in south Florida where it is hot. I don’t know if that means anything. How hard is it to grind the floor? Can I rent a machine? thanx
Paul
If you are located in Florida Paul, we recommend giving Scotty from Legacy Industrial a call. They are located in Florida and are very familiar with what works best for your area. He works well with the DIY crowd. Their Nohr-S system and high solids epoxy systems are fantastic. We have an article on grinding here.
I wondered if this product would be useful to use for a concrete front porch on a 1918 craftsman bungalow. I worry about sun exposure, and moisture issues, since it is more open to the elements. What do you think?
No, coatings such as these are not a good choice for the very reasons you specified Alisa. However, you could always apply a good acrylic sealer like this one here. Acrylics breathe and can generally handle moisture issues. Some can be tinted or you could always stain the concrete first and then apply the acrylic. If the porch gets wet, it’s a good idea to add an anti-slip additive as well.
Hello, I am adding a new garage onto our house and want to epoxy coat both old and new once it is done. What product do you recommend to fill the cracks in the old garage floor (some large and small cracks)? What is the best method to prepare the old floor (sand, sand blast, acid wash…?) What do I need to do to the new floor (after 30 days wait time)? I understand that preparation is the key and want to do it right!
Thanks,
Bill
Hello Bill. Yes, you need to wait a minimum of 30 days for new concrete to cure before applying a coating. We have articles about garage floor repair here, which include material recommendations. Proper prep for concrete is the same whether it’s new concrete or old. You need to acid etch at a minimum. Grinding is better if you are able. We have an article about the differences here. This article here explains how to acid etch and this article here explains how to grind a garage floor.
This is a very helpful article. Thank you!
Do you have any recommendations for people in the Midwest where we have often four very distinct seasons? Also, if you have any recommended products or installers in the Kansas City area, I’d love to hear them. Thanks.
Hello Bear. Commercial quality products are highly recommended. We have some great sponsors on the right sidebar of our website that carry very good materials. Stay away from the DIY epoxy kits that you can typically find in home improvement centers as they will not last. If you are interested in hiring someone to do the work for you, try Amazing Garage Floors in the Kansas City area.
Great site! I’m learning so much from the articles here but I do have a question for you that I don’t think has been covered here.
My double garage floor is 20 years old but in great shape and responds very well to etching which is the way I’m thinking of going. However, the floor was poured in 4 segments each 10 x 10 feet and between segments, there is a rubber like expansion joint that sits about an 1/8″ below the nominal surface. At the intersection of the four panels is a 12″ x 12″ drain that is also surrounded by the rubber material.
How do I epoxy this floor? Do I do it in 4 segments? How do I protect the expansion joint?
By the way I’m in Ontario Canada so it does get cold here.
Hello Bryan. What you want to do is run duct tape on the contraction joint seals and drain cover before you apply your coating. You may want to do it before you etch as well in order to protect the seals from possible damage from the acid etch. You will want to pull the tape up 15 to 30 minutes after applying the coating. If you don’t, it coating will harden too much and you will have to cut it away before it becomes too hard. Applying in sections works just fine and is the preferred method for most people since it allows go at a more manageable pace.
I have some fairly deep cracks in my garage floor. How can I repair or minimize/hide the look of these cracks
You can find most of the information you need about crack repair here, Lynn.
Hello, I am in the process of redoing my garage floor. I have power washed all the old paint off and am going to put some self leveling cement down. Do i still need to wait the 30 days to put the epoxy down? Thanks
No, Anthony, it should range from 12 hours to 3 days depending on the type of product you use. The technical data sheets for the product should tell you how long you have to wait. Just make sure you are not using a self-leveling underlayment that is used for tile, carpet, wood, linoleum and etc.
Hi,
I’m plannng to have our garage floor coated with epoxy in the very near future.
It as several storage cupboards that will need to be moved. We are elderly and would need help – also they would need to be moved up one low step into the house.
However, we are wondering whether half the floor could be done with the fast drying epoxy one day and the other half of the floor done two days later in which would just mean that that the cupboards could be moved to one side and then the other side while the job is completed.
Please could you let us have your thoughts about this idea.
Thank you.
Hi Marion. We recommend discussing this with the floor coating company you plan to hire. Most of of your fast cure garage floor coatings are polyaspartic polyurea. They can be completed in one day with the ability to move most items in that same day and be able to park in the garage the next. The would most like be able to do that for you. Some companies even offer the option of moving your items into a locked trailer or truck overnight which they park on the premises.
In terms of doing one half of the floor at a time, if you have a contraction joint that divides the garage in half then it can be used as a natural border to do that. However, if you don’t have any joints in the concrete you cannot do one half at a time. The reason is that coatings to not blend in on top of each other like paint does. You will have very noticeable roller marks where the second half is applied over the edges of the other half. It is not very attractive at all.
hi
thanking to your support.i am installing epoxy to wood. in top coat i need to use grit sandpaper for polish purpose. which type of grit sandpaper is best for me. can u suggest grit sandpaper number.and how to clean it after gritting.
Hello Shatru. You can’t polish epoxy or any concrete coating for that matter. If you use sandpaper on it, no matter how fine the grit, it will cloud up the surface and dull the finish.
Hello,
My garage had the epoxy done using Rustoleum RockSolid by a contractor. He did a good job but painted the strip between my garage door and the asphalt driveway even though I mentioned him that I wanted it to be done only inside the garage. I live in Chicago and with the extreme weathers should I take any extra precaution to maintain this exposed area to extend the life of the epoxy?
I will make sure not to use my snow thrower or shovel in that area but wanted expert advice to maintain the investment for few years.
Thank You.
Hello Suresh. There isn’t much more you can do to maintain it. Cosmetically it will develop a light yellow tint from being exposed to U.V. light, but it won’t affect anything else. The only concern would be moisture getting into the concrete under the coating where it terminates with the asphalt. We would recommend sealing the joint between the asphalt and concrete with SikaFlex if it is not sealed already.
Thank You Shea. I have not sealed yet. I am planning to fill the contraction joints inside the garage with backer rod and sikaflex polyurethane. Could I use the same to fill the joint between asphalt & concrete?
Thanks,
Suresh
Yes you can, Suresh.
I live in Austin Texas and just bought a new house in Jan 2017 and am trying to decide between applying Epoxy vs the polyaspartic coating I’ve heard about.
The company who does epoxy claims it’s the best thing on the market. Another company who came by swear by the polyaspartic claiming it’s 3 times more durable than epoxy. It’s clearly more expensive, but I want to know if it’s worth it? Which is truly more durable and will last longer? I believe both companies are offering lifetime warranties.
Thanks.
Hello Okem. You are asking good questions. Most quality epoxy systems installed by reputable contractors will have a minimum of three coats. A primer coat, a high solids base color coat (color flakes optional), and then a coat (sometimes two) of clear polyurethane or polyurea. This type of system is just as good (sometimes better) than a polyaspartic coating. Most polyurea polyaspartic coatings are only two coats. The base color coat (color flakes optional) and then the clear coat. The abrasion, chemical, and scratch resistance of polyaspartics is very good and similar to polyurethane and polyurea. The main difference between the two flooring systems is thickness. A quality epoxy flooring system can be almost twice as thick as a polyaspartic system. This is good if you have a busy, working garage. It doesn’t make that much of a difference though if you are just parking your cars in it. I suggest you read this article about polyaspartic garage floor coatings. Next, I suggest you read this article about choosing a garage floor coating contractor.
Make sure you ask how many coats each flooring system consists of and what product is being used. Also, ask to see the technical data sheets. This will give you a good idea of the quality of materials being used and provides a good comparison between the two systems. Finally, make sure that each preps the concrete by grinding and not acid etching. If you have any more questions just let us know.
Hello…I just had my garage done and it looks great….contractor applied primer, base coat, full broadcast chips and a UV polyurethane coat…but the contractor also did NOT do a 6 inch step the spanned from side to side of the 2-car garage claiming that the the epoxy would not stick on vertical surfaces…is this true? If so, what would you recommend I do with this bare concrete step?
Hello Fred. Unfortunately, what you were told is not true. Most floor coating contractors offer to apply the coating and color flakes to vertical surfaces such as the surrounding stem walls and step ups for elevation changes. It’s generally done for an additional charge. DIY applicators do it as well. Take a look at the first image from this article here as an example. If the contractor will not offer to do this for you at an additional charge, you can always find someone else who would. Another option is to color match the epoxy color with an acrylic latex concrete paint which you can purchase from your local home improvement center. No real concrete prep is required, other than making sure it is clean, and there is no worries about wear since you will not be walking or driving on a vertical surface. Just the color change alone from bare concrete to the same as the rest of the floor can tie things in nicely.
We have a 12’X32′ cement floor in our covered and screened lanai at our home in SW Florida that I would like to cover with an epoxy floor. Would it for this sort of application?
Hello Jill. A lanai is going to have much more U.V. light exposure than a garage. Epoxy wouldn’t be the best choice as it can develop a yellow tint from the U.V. exposure. We suggest a single-part polyurea instead. These are U.V. stable, easy to apply, and extremely durable. You can learn more about them here.
Hi I just want to ask my plan for a living room.
From bare concrete more than 2 months
1. Primer concrete paint
2. Any concrete paint serves us my design
3. Epoxy coat.
If I do these all I can produce a successful output? If not please I need your suggestion. By the way I’m in a tropical country
Hello Aesha. You cannot apply epoxy over primer concrete paint. It has to be an epoxy primer. Paint and epoxy are two completely different products.
Have used a product ( or this same one) on garage floor approx 10 years ago. Held up great for 8 years in intense sunlight exposure. Top coat now yellowing. Tried removing it with lacquer thinner but it will not soften. How can I remove it and can I purchase the clear coat alone to reapply to the base coat and flakes ?
Thanks
Hello Ray. A good coating will not soften or be affected by most chemicals as you discovered. What you will need to do is remove the existing clear coat by grinding. You may loose some color flakes in the process (assuming you have them). You can then apply a new clear coat. One thing to keep in mind is that if the clear coat has yellowed, then chances are high that the color coat has yellowed as well. If that is the case, you would be better off applying a new color coat and clear coat over the existing coating. It would require roughing up the surface with 100-120 grit sandpaper in order to do this. A single-part polyurea coating is a good option for a new coating since they do not turn yellow to U.V. exposure.