One of the toughest and most durable finishes that you can apply to a garage floor today is an epoxy coating. Not only does it protect your garage floor, it can instantly transform your boring or ugly concrete into a professional-looking floor of beauty and function.
And since the garage has become more than just a place where you park the car, the benefits of garage floor epoxy have made it one of the most popular garage flooring options today.
In fact, it is commonly used for both residential and commercial applications. Not only does it provide protection from the elements, but it will also give your garage or workshop floor that showroom shine that says “look at me”!
Depending on which type of garage floor coating system you choose, you can select from a variety of understated colors and hues. Other options are custom colors, metallics, and blends of color flakes that match your style, home, or even your favorite sports team.
So, let’s briefly examine what an epoxy coating really is. We will discuss what the benefits are, learn how it’s applied, and some of the costs involved.
Additionally, we will provide excellent examples of where you can purchase quality coatings and DIY coating kits that we have reviewed and can recommend.
What is garage floor epoxy?
Epoxy flooring is a thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating to concrete. It is created when you mix one-part colored or clear epoxide resin with one part polyamine hardener. Hence, a 2-part coating.
When the two parts are mixed, the hardener acts as a catalyst. This creates a chemical reaction upon contact and begins the exothermic curing process. This curing process forms polymer structures that are closely cross-linked, giving epoxy its superior strength and durability.
The end result is a thick and highly durable coating that bonds tenaciously to a properly prepared concrete surface.
Along with the colored epoxy coating, you also have the option of applying decorative color flakes and a high-performance clear coat. The clear coat protects the color flakes and color coat.
This combination of coatings is known as a garage floor coating system. Commercial quality systems can last for ten to twenty years on a garage floor.
In addition, if you don’t want the traditional epoxy look, there is the option of a metallic epoxy coating.
These finishes are extremely glossy and known for their wild-looking flowing rivers of metallic color. You can even create 3-D moon-like craters if you desire.
Though metallic epoxy can look absolutely stunning for a garage, it’s not for everyone. The darker colors and extreme gloss will show every spec of debris, dust, dusty footprints, and dirty tire tracks. It’s worse when the sun shines on it.
This is why the lighter grays, tans, and color flakes are so popular. They do a good job of not showing dust and the color flakes can camouflage bits of debris and other dirt.
Are there other coatings besides epoxy?
Epoxy is not the only type of decorative coating for a garage. It just happens to be the most well-known due to the many years that it has been available.
Commercial quality, single-part DIY polyurea coating systems are fast becoming a favorite for the DIY installer. These coatings are very durable and easier to apply than epoxy.
What’s more, one-day polyurea polyaspartic coating systems are now offered by commercial installers. These are very durable coatings that cure extremely fast. The fast cure allows them to apply a complete system in just one day.
Is Epoxy and Paint for a garage floor the same thing?
This is where marketing to the consumer by national brands has caused confusion and angst. An epoxy floor coating is not paint. Big retail companies started mixing the terms when they discovered people were asking for paint when they meant epoxy.
Most paints for garage floors are latex acrylic and have a matte to satin finish. They are the least durable of decorative options.
Some may have a very small percentage of epoxy resin added to increase durability, but these are still a latex acrylic and not a coating. These are known as epoxy paints or 1-part epoxy paint.
In addition, garage floor paint and 1-part epoxy paint do not seal the garage floor as an epoxy coating does. They are designed as a single coat application. That means you apply just the paint and that’s it.
Lastly, paint is not intended for clear topcoats. Nor are they compatible with most clear coats. Many people have become frustrated to learn this AFTER they applied a garage floor paint.
Read – Don’t Fall for These Phony “Best Epoxy” Reviews!
Benefits of a garage floor epoxy coating
So, what makes an epoxy coating one of the best finishes for your garage floor? Besides looking nice, the hard and thick coating that you get from epoxy creates a decorative surface that is very durable and easy to keep clean.
It’s resistant to impacts, chipping, chemicals, stains, and surface abrasion. You don’t have to panic about damaging or staining the surface if you spill oil on it or a bicycle falls over.
The thicker coatings also do a great job of covering over minor imperfections such as small spider cracks and flaws in the concrete.
In addition, epoxy is a concrete sealer. This means that it will seal out moisture at the surface as well. This is a great benefit for people who live in snowy climates that deal with road salts and deicing fluids that can damage concrete.
Furthermore, epoxy floor coatings are easy to clean. A mild cleaning solution and water are all that are required. Dirt and debris can be collected with a dust mop or soft broom when the floor is dry.
Epoxy coatings receive high reviews from home mechanics and hobbyists as well. Since it is both chemical and stain resistant, oil, brake fluids, anti-freeze, gasoline, and other caustic car chemicals can easily be wiped up without worry – even if it sits for a while. And because epoxy is a topical sealer, it is also anti-dusting.
Lastly, the high gloss and lighter colors of epoxy reflect overhead and natural light. This results in a brighter work environment that makes more efficient use of the light available.
How well do garage floor coatings stand up to heavy rolling tool boxes, floor jacks, and jack stands? Quite well actually!
As long as any rolling steel wheels are not roughly scarred up or slid across the floor without care, they will not damage or scratch most coatings. This goes for jack stands as well.
Review the different epoxy coating options by Concrete Network
Because the thicker, multiple coat epoxy systems wear so well, warranties of up to 15 years or more for installation by professional installers is becoming common. Many manufacturers even warranty the materials against defects for the life of the floor.
Visit our garage flooring gallery to view more epoxy coated garage floors.
Are garage floor coatings slippery?
Most floor coatings are not slippery when they are dry. However, epoxy and other coatings can become slippery when wet. Typically, the more gloss a coating has, the more slippery it can be when wet.
A heavy application of color flakes can add texture to a coating and make it slightly less slippery, but it is not a substitute for an anti-slip surface. If wet grip or non-slip is a concern, then an anti-slip media should be mixed into the final coat.
Are there drawbacks to an epoxy coating?
As tough as this type of garage floor covering can be, it’s not resistant to everything.
Welding is hard on epoxy and other floor coatings. It can create burn marks from the hot slag that falls on it. In fact, metal fabricating in general can be tough on floor coatings. This is due to the tendency for heavy and sharp objects to get dragged across the surface.
If you are interested in a more utilitarian type of coating that makes cleanup easier, yet resists hot slag and grinding sparks better, then we suggest looking into this coating that we reviewed.
Epoxy and other coatings are not a good choice for garage floors that have moisture issues from below the slab. The rate of moisture vapor transmission from underneath the slab can cause coatings to delaminate if it is too high.
In addition, there is always the concern about hot tire pick up for epoxy. This is a problem that is more closely associated with the home improvement store DIY epoxy paint kits. These are usually water-based coatings that are approximately 50% solids and 3 mils or less thick.
Hot tires can cause these coatings to soften. As the tires begin to cool, they contract ever so slightly, and the tire tread grabs and pulls at the surface of the thinner coating.
This process will actually cause the epoxy to delaminate as the tire pulls it up off the floor.
As a comparison, a 90% – 100% solids epoxy cures to a minimum of 9 mils dry film thickness. Many can be applied much thicker depending on the coverage rate used.
These thicker coatings are considered commercial quality. They are installed professionally or can be purchased from concrete coating vendors online and be applied DIY instead.
Read – Why Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield and similar epoxy paint kits get bad reviews.
Lastly, epoxy is not U.V. stable. It can develop a yellow tint over the years from exposure to direct sunlight. The coating industry refers to this as ambering. Low-quality epoxy can amber within months, while high quality epoxy may take years.
One way to prevent this from happening is to install an epoxy floor system with full color flakes and a high-performance clear coat. Both color flakes and clear topcoats such as polyurea or polyurethane are U.V. stable and will not amber.
How garage floor epoxy is applied
Epoxy floor coatings can be professionally installed or you can do it yourself. A DIY installation can save you quite a bit of money in labor costs. It’s not that difficult as long as you make yourself familiar with all the steps required and plan accordingly.
The first step is proper preparation of the concrete. This is critical and the most important step for a successful coating. The process will involve either floor grinding or acid etching of the surface in order to create the necessary concrete profile.
Repairing concrete cracks or other damage at this time is highly recommended if you want an unblemished look.
High quality epoxy floor systems involve multiple coats to insure a very tough and resistant coating that will last for years.
Depending on the system being applied, an epoxy primer may be applied first.
The primer penetrates and binds to the concrete to provide the best adhesion for the subsequent thick coating layers. Some primers will also act as a moisture vapor barrier. This is for concrete floors that are susceptible to moisture vapor that moves up from the soil through the concrete to the surface.
The next coat is the thick color epoxy base coat. Sometimes referred to as the build coat, This may be applied without a primer depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Next are the optional colored acrylic paint chips. The color coat is what will receive the colored flakes and are applied while the color coat is still freshly wet.
Full color flake coatings are a popular option. This is when the color flakes completely cover the base epoxy coat. This option allows for custom blends of flake colors to provide any color flooring you want. Furthermore, it provides additional thickness and durability to the coating.
The final coat/s is the clear topcoat. It is also referred to as the wear coat. It locks in the color flakes, provides the best wear and stain protection, and creates the glossy look and depth that these floors are known for.
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How much does garage floor epoxy cost?
The cost to epoxy your garage floor can vary greatly. It is determined by the type of concrete prep performed (etch or grind), possible repairs, quality of materials used, number of coats, and whether you hire a professional for installation or do it yourself.
The least expensive method for an epoxy floor is to apply it yourself.
Pricing can start as low as .27 cents per square foot. This would be for the single coat, low-budget, water-based epoxy coatings. Kits like this one from Rust-Oleum are an example. They are the least durable epoxy and not very glossy, but they are cheap in cost.
However, you can purchase a high-performance, commercial quality garage floor epoxy coating system in kit form for just over $1 per square foot. This would include an epoxy primer, high solids base epoxy color coat, color flakes, and a high-performance polyurethane clear coat.
This type of coating system in a kit will last 10-15 years or more. We highly recommend kits like this one here. It’s an excellent value for the money.
A good compromise for the budget would be a single coat of 100% solids epoxy. This company here offers a few choices of kits to fit your budget. You can also read our review.
The coatings that are easiest to apply are single-part polyurea. We did a full review of single-part polyurea here.
Don’t forget to factor in the cost for required supplies such as mixing buckets, paint rollers, cleaning supplies and etc. The advantage of the commercial quality kits is that many of these vendors include some of these supplies with their kits.
A professional installation typically starts at around $4.00 per square foot. This cost does vary and can depend on the competition in the area where you live. It will usually include a minimum of one epoxy color coat, color flakes, and a clear coat.
Cost can go up from there depending on the number of top coats required, how much color flake is applied in the base coat, and if more than one clear coat will be required. A typical 2-car garage is approximately 400ft² for reference.
Total time for a professional company to epoxy coat your garage floor is 2-3 days. You can usually park your car within 72 hours after it is finished.
The fast curing one-day polyurea polyaspartic systems start close to $6 per square foot and go up in cost from there. These are applied and finished in one day and can be driven on the next. Because of their fast cure rate, they should only be applied by professionals or those with much DIY coating experience.
Final thoughts
As we mentioned, an epoxy coating will completely transform the looks of your garage floor. It’s durable, easy to clean, highly stain resistant, and all while providing great looks at the same time.
There is one important point that we want to make. You genuinely get what you pay for when it comes to garage floor coatings. If want a budget product, you will get budget performance. If you spend a bit more, you will be rewarded with a much more durable coating.
In the long run, it will actually save you both time and money to purchase higher quality coating products – by far.
So, whether you are turning your garage into a man cave, a working shop for car repairs and projects, or just a place to park your cars, it’s hard to beat the benefits an epoxy garage floor coating system will provide.
Marie says
We applied the first coat of epoxy on our garage floor and had a sudden storm come up. It blew in leaves and also bugs , etc. Rain did not co e in…luckily… How do we prep for the second coat? Can we sand?
Shea says
Hi Marie. Yes, let the epoxy cure for a few days and then sand it with 100-150 grit sandpaper. Sweep or vacuum up the debris and then wipe the surface down with denatured alcohol. After that it will be ready for another coat.
Kathryn says
Our pets have not been kind to our indoor flooring…carpet, tile, laminate. I am desperate for another option. The pets are indoor and often have accidents on the floor, regardless of how many times we walk them each day! Is an epoxy floor a reasonable option for us?
Shea says
That depends on what you are willing to accept for indoor flooring Kathryn. Commercial quality epoxy systems are installed all the time for indoor professional kennels. Clean ups are a breeze and it doesn’t stain the finish. The inside of your home will take on a completely different look however.
Jen says
Hi Shea, I live in Minnesota and am wondering if an epoxy coating will withstand the salt and other chemicals used during the winters.
Shea says
Yes it will Jen. As long as you install a commercial quality system it will last for many years and protect your concrete from the elements. The home improvement center kits a single coat system and of lessor quality. They may only last a few years.
jim says
i had an epoxy floor installed in jan, now in early july is starting to yellow very bad.any ideas what happeded or what i can do? this installer does lots of floors.
thanks, jim
Shea says
Hello Jim. Epoxy will yellow if exposed to U.V. light (sun). Do you keep the garage door open much, have windows, or a southern exposure? Did they use an epoxy clear coat instead of polyurethane or polyurea? Polyurethane and polyureas are not affected by sun. Clear epoxy will show the yellowing much faster than the color coat. There isn’t anything you can do about it except apply the appropriate color coat and clear coat over it.
Lynn says
Hi Shea. We are giving our 23 year old garage a facelift. Now we are considering doing epoxy floor coating ourselves. After much debate and research on the subject, I think Roll on Rock is the front runner. Any experience with their product?
We live in Alabama and right now we are hovering in the high 90s with about 80% humidity. With these weather conditions is floor coating now a wise idea? Would grinding the floor in the day and apply the coating at night be the best option?
Thanks
Lynn
Shea says
Hi Lynn. The Roll on Rock is a great DIY product. When it comes to pushing the envelope regarding temperatures and humidity, we always recommend giving the vendor or manufacturer a call and talk to them as each product is a bit different. They can tell you exactly what to do in terms of application or just waiting for better weather. Garagefloorcoatings.com has a toll free number at the bottom of their website that you can call and ask.
Lauren says
My town is looking to redo the concrete floors in our community center. I was trying to find more information on how long the epoxy flooring would last and a cost of hiring a company versus do it yourself. Is there a number or a way to e-mail someone to find out more information?
Shea says
Lauren, are the concrete floors indoors and what are they used for?
Aaron says
Two questions, 1) Is there a window between application of a water-based clear coat over a water-based epoxy? 2) If the floor is keep clean in between application of the clear coat, do I need to do any prep work?
Shea says
Hello Aaron. Generally the recoat window is 12 to 24 hours after application, temperature dependent, in order to develop a good chemical bond. Over 24 hours will require roughing up the surface before application in order to apply an additional coat. Some of the lesser quality DIY epoxy kits have recoat windows that are a little longer.
Michael Immesote says
I own a small convenience store that has peel and stick tile for flooring. I want to paint the floor with epoxy garage covering. Will it stick to the tile?
Shea says
No, epoxy will not stick well to peel and stick tile flooring Michael. You will need to pull the tile up and prep the concrete properly in order to apply epoxy.
kevin says
New concrete floor poured 2 years ago. Any concerns or wait time required before applying epoxy coatings? How do you deal with the contraction joints, fill or no fill, before surfacing?
Shea says
Hello Kevin. You need to wait a minimum of 30 days after a slab is poured, so you are fine in that regards. The contraction joint conundrum is really up to you. Traditionally, you leave the contraction joints alone and just run the epoxy down in the joint to make sure it is coated. However, some people like the look of no contraction joints and elect to go with the seamless looking option. It is more expensive, however, as you need to fill the contraction joint with the proper material.
Suzanne says
We are thinking of this type of flooring on our back patio – we want a different look. Will it be okay with the southwest sun on it? We would need the anti-slip because we do not want it too slick if rain or something happens – again, will that be okay with the floor outside?
Shea says
Hi Suzanne. No, epoxy is not designed for the outdoors. It will amber (turn yellow) in the sunlight and can develop adhesion issues with the concrete as it absorbs moisture from the outdoors. What you need to look into are pool deck coatings which are also used for patios. These are thin polymer-modified cement overlays that are colored and can be textured as well. They are extremely durable, can be made non-slip, and will last for years.
Charles Kessler says
I have many cracks in a poor concrete job which I wanted for my auto workshop and am looking for something to fill these cracks.
Can you help?
Shea says
Hello Charles. Can you be a bit more descriptive of the kinds of cracks you have? Is the surface smooth but has many cracks, are the edges crumbling or sharp? We have an article here on crack repair that may help as well. We ask these question because cracks are repaired a variety of ways depending on the type of cracks and what you plan to do with the concrete if anything.
Angela says
I know it is not the proper way to do this but does epoxy coating really work for covering asbestos tile before putting down different flooring?
Shea says
Hello Angela. Traditional epoxy coatings will not work for asbestos. The reason is that the surface of the tiles would have to be sanded in order to create bite for the coating. This is a big no-no when dealing with asbestos. There are some self-leveling epoxy related products that are used to encapsulate asbestos tile, but it’s best done by a professional. It’s a minimum two man job and requires experience to do right. We suggest contacting a contractor who has experience with encapsulating asbestos.
LW says
Hello, I attempted to send this comment in a few days ago but perhaps I botched it – forgive me if this ends up a duplicate. First – great site – thank you for the excellent trade-off information. One thing I can’t quite decipher yet – how the final results compare for a primer-epoxy-polyurethane floor vs a primer-epoxy-polyurea/polyaspartic floor. You have highlighted very well the trade-offs in applying polyurethane vs polyurea/polyaspartic but I can’t quite tell if you mean to imply that the gold standard for long term durability and looks is an epoxy-polyurethane combo, everything else is less durable in the end? I am doing a garage and I want something very durable against hot-tire pickup, chemicals, and abrasions.
I was considering the “roll on rock” product, especially because it looks like I can choose between both top-coat types. However, contrary to your recommendations they don’t recommend a primer – concerning as I don’t want any de-lamination. I was also fascinated by the Nohr-S product but it’s new enough that hot-tire pickup may be an unknown?
In the end, I can weigh all of the application trade offs for my situation, but I’d like to have an idea of the performance trades I am making, is Polyurethane twice as good, 10% better, or about the same as polyurea/polyaspartic in the post application performance of durability, longevity, and appearance?
Appreciate your help.
LW
Shea says
Hello LW. Polyurethane and polyurea are very similar in performance since polyurea is a subgroup of polyurethane. Either are excellent when dealing with the high performance formulas and it really comes down to preferences and sometimes cost considerations. Some differences between the two – polyurea can be a bit glossier than polyurethane and dry film thickness is usually twice that of polyurethane. Polyurea can be more slippery when wet compared to polyurethane. What you have to consider, however, is that not all polyurethane and polyurea coatings are the same. It really depends on the formula used, particularly for polyurea. Polyurea can lose some of it’s performance advantages when it is adjusted for easier application and longer pot life. High performance polyurethanes can vary as well, though not as much as polyurea. This is why if you are comparing two different brands of coatings or comparing options within a particular line of products, it’s important to review the data sheets. Compare the Regent ratings for chemical resistance as well as ratings for abrasion resistance. It also helps to call the vendors of these products and talk with them. They can be very helpful with choosing the best performing product withing their own line.
Roll On Rock doesn’t use a primer because the epoxy is not 100% solids. It is a high solids, high performance coating though that gets good penetration. One thing to remember is that most companies want to keep pricing down, so advertising a product that does not require a primer is advantageous. It doesn’t mean that you would get just as good performance as a system with a primer however. What we can tell you is that both systems you are looking at are high quality. Hot tire pickup should not be a factor with proper prep. Nohr-S is a better system if comparing the two head to head, but it will cost more.
Ben says
Just wondering which is better between Roll On Rock and Nohr-S. Wanting to put in the time to do great prep, and then want the product to stand up once it is applied. Nohr-S sounds amazing, but in the pictures on Legacy Industrial’s Facebook page, the flakes are few and far between. Roll On Rock, on the other hand, seems to layer the flakes on. Your professional thoughts would be super helpful! Thanks in advance!!!
Shea says
Hello Ben. The amount of color flakes in these systems is dependent on you. You are given the option with these floor coatings to apply as much color flake as you want. You can choose a sparse look or a full color flake system. It really is user preference.
Mary says
Are there any issues with applying an epoxy coating after having a garage floor slab jacked?
Shea says
No really Mary. We would not recommend filling your contraction joints in order to get the seamless look though (assuming you contraction joints). If you get any slab movement from settling it may cause the epoxy over the joint to crack.
Paul Parkins says
I heard somewhere that cider vinegar will work to etch a garage floor, as a safer alternative to muratic acid.
Have you any knowledge if this works?
Shea says
No, it won’t work for etching concrete Paul. A cup to a gallon of warm water works well for cleaning coatings however.
We have an article on safe alternatives that work well. You can find it here.
Antonio says
I also have pets. And they stay in my basement when it’s to hit for them outside my floor is concret and they occasionally pee on it just wondering if this opoxy would be a could use to put on the floor for easier clean ups or would it not with hold the urine or do you know if any other floor products to lay down to help with it
Shea says
Quality epoxy coated floors is what many kennels and pet facilities use for their flooring Antonio. The proper system makes for very easy cleanup with no stains and no odors left behind.
Scott says
I just bought a Model home where the offices were built in the garage and sample Hardwood flooring was installed on the garage floor. When they tore up the office space and flooring, it left a lot of little chunks taken out of the concrete. They filled in the holes in the cement flooring with concrete and let that dry a few days. Then applied a skim coat of cement to cover up the difference in color in the flooring. We want to put down a good quality epoxy covering. Is this a good idea with the skim coat and if so, how long do we need to wait before we install the epoxy finish?
Shea says
It depends on the type of skim coat they put down Scott. Some are designed to accept a coating while other manufacturer’s recommend against it. We suggest you find out what product that was used and then call the manufacturer for guidance. Assuming you can apply a coating, you will need to grind the surface to profile it correctly to accept a coating. Acid etching does not work with skim coats due to the low lime content and modifiers used. It will need to cure for a minimum of 28 days before applying it.
Johnson says
I live in Calgary and got commercial grade epoxy coating professionally installed in my garage in April. Will the flooring sustain any discoloration along the tire tracks over the winter months with all the salts, sands and slush?
Shea says
We can’t say for sure Johnson without knowing what product was used. However, if it was a reputable garage flooring company using commercial product then chances are the floor will look just the same in the spring time as it did before winter rolled in.
Derek Mcdoogle says
In your article, you stated that used for both residential and commercial applications, epoxy will give your garage or shop floor that showroom shine that says “look at me!” My wife has been complaining that our garage is always so dirty and wants something done. Is epoxy the most requested material for garage floors? Finding a flooring company to put this in our garage could be a good option.
Shea says
Yes, quality epoxy floor coatings as well as polyaspartic polyurea coatings are more popular today than they ever have been. There are many good garage floor coating companies and contractors available who can install such a system.
Martha says
Can I apply epoxy to a new garage floor
Shea says
Yes you can Martha. Just make sure it has cured for 30 days if it’s a brand new pour. Also, even though it is new, you still will need to profile it correctly by either grinding or acid etching the surface before applying a coating.
Dan Knitz says
Ive got a 24×24 attached garage (unfinished) floor that has had some cracks and the saw cuts filled in with a some sort of crack filler. This crack filler is even on the some of the surface of the floor near the cut in the floor. Im unsure of what was used but I can say without a doubt it doesn’t want to come out. Its light gray in color and very flexible. Some of the filler has what appears to have some air bubbles that has raised up higher than the surface of the floor. I bought a epoxy floor coating kit and was just going to apply the coating over the filled cracks and saw cuts but don’t want to take the chance of the epoxy cracking at the cuts and cracks. Wll the epoxy adhere to the crack filler? What do you suggest I do? I thought I could just pull this crack filler out of the cuts/ cracks in the floor but its not as easy as I thought it was going to be. Ive tried cutting it out, tried using a wire wheel etc.. Is there a better way of getting the crack filler out? Maybe a chemical? Pressure washer ? Im not concerned with having visible cuts but want to hide the cracks of course. Can I leave the this stuff in the small cracks and on the surface of the floor? Thanks
Shea says
Hello Dan. It sounds like the joints and cracks were filled with a self-leveling polyurethane sealant like SikaFlex or an equivalent. If so, epoxy does not want to adhere to it very well. Plus, for wide gaps such as expansion joints you run the risk of the epoxy cracking under weight. The reason for this is that epoxy is not flexible at all. If the filler flexes under weight, then the epoxy will crack first before flexing.
The best way to remove it is to use a crack chasing wheel that is attached to a 4″ angle grinder. Here is an example of the wheel. This video shows how they work. Once you clean out the cracks and joints you can then fill them with the appropriate material. One option would be to leave the contraction joints alone and epoxy up to the filler, but you would still need to fix the crack issues.
QL says
Hi, I try to decide either solvent based epoxy vs. rustoleum rocksolid product for my garage floor grinded last week. Can you please tell me which product will last longer and also stronger? In addition, would you recommend the second coat for either option? If that is the case, should I apply the chips after the clear coat?
Thank a lot for your time and comments.
Shea says
Hello QL. Rust-Oleum Professional solvent based epoxy has a long history of holding up well for its price point. It’s always been a solid performer in the DIY kit category. RockSolid polycuramine (also by Rust-Oleum) is still fairly new, but so far it seems to be doing well. One difference between the two is that RockSolid lists some of the basic performance test numbers for their product. The abrasion resistance and shore hardness ratings are actually quite good for this product, indicating that it should hold up well. Most DIY kits in this category do not list performance test numbers since they are known by the manufacturer not to stand up well to commercial quality product. Keep in mind, neither of these kits compare to the multiple coat, high performance product that is generally installed professionally or by avid DIY enthusiasts.
Another difference between the two is preference in cosmetics. The Rust-Oleum Professional solvent based has a semi-gloss appearance while the RockSolid has a very high gloss appearance. One thing to keep in mind with RockSolid, however, is that there have been known issues of poor coverage rates and a splotchy appearance with just one color coat. Most of these issues are attributed to good penetration of the product to some concrete surfaces. A second coat fixes the problem and creates good color uniformity. If you plan on using just one color coat, we suggest you reduce RockSolid’s stated coverage rate by 15%.
If you plan on applying a clear coat, you will want to broadcast the color flakes into the color coat immediately after it is applied. You then lock in the color flakes by applying the clear coat over them.
QL says
Shea,
Thank you for your reply. Very helpful. I decided to go with solvent based epoxy last week and received the product yesterday. However, checking the weather in the next 10 days, although the highest is mid 60s, the lowest is down to upper 40s and low 50s. I called rustoleum today and they told me that minimal temp is 55F for 3 days around application and has to be above 55F all the time after I coat the floor. Otherwise, epoxy may not cure. Is that really true?
If that is the case, does that mean I have to wait until next May/June? I have grinded the floor and the pore is open. Then return next year, do I have to start from scratch again ie. clean, grind etc? I do not mind to degrease the floor again, but grinding again is intimidating for me…
Thanks a lot!
Shea says
Yes, it’s true QL. Temperature as well as humidity play a big role in the successful outcome of coatings. Just to clarify, they require a minimum of 55 degrees for a few days after it is applied. The temps can drop there after. If you don’t foresee that minimum temperature range happening for a few days or so in the near future then you will have to wait. You will not have to grind, but you will need to clean the surface real well. We recommend sending the product back and not hold on to it for that long as well. There are some tricks to applying epoxy in colder temps which we have listed here.
I know you were debating between RockSolid and the Professional series Rust-Oleum. The RockSolid polycuramine coating has a lower temperature restriction of 40 degrees and could be applied in your current conditions. Just something to consider.
PSGlynn says
We have just built a new home with attached garage, and radiant heat in the garage floor. Can we install an epoxy floor over the heated floor?
Thank you
Shea says
Yes, it’s actually very common. The heat will not affect the coating in any way.
Mai says
We r working on setting up a design studio in a garage on a home that was built approximately eight years ago.
It has minor crack lines and looks like they did a light treatment to the garage floor.
I want to make sure that the flooring that is done in the garage now will cover cracks. These are thin lines.
Please advise if this product will work and if you have solid elegant colors within ur line.
Thank you
Shea says
Hello Mai. If you can stick a playing card in the crack then it needs to be filled first. Anything thinner and you are OK to coat over it. We are not a retailer or online vendor so we do not offer product.