This post may contain affiliate links. If you use these links to make a purchase, we may earn a small commission. As an Amazon Associate, All Garage Floors earns from qualifying purchases. You can read our full disclaimer here.
Learning the basics of how to apply an epoxy garage floor coating isn’t hard. A quick search on the internet will reveal a list of simple 8 step plans to get it done or an abundance of short videos to watch. They make it look easy enough. However, the more stressful part is when you discover in the middle of the application process that you need to know more about the finer details of applying a coating. That’s when you realize that you have more questions than answers.
This DIY garage floor coating application guide is designed as one of the more comprehensive and detailed instruction manuals. We will cover in detail the application process of a multiple coat floor system that consists of an epoxy primer coat, 100% solids epoxy base coat (with or without color flakes), and a clear polyurethane, polyurea, or epoxy top coat.
In addition, we also discuss application of the newer and easier to install single-part polyurea garage floor coatings.
Our ultimate goal is to help our readers benefit from these epoxy application tips in order to achieve a successful garage floor coating that looks fantastic and doesn’t suffer from the typical problems associated with poor preparation and applicator errors. Though the steps required might seem complex at first, when you break it down and read about the various tips, you will find that it really isn’t that complex at all — just thorough.
Note to our readers: This article has been updated to include the latest information as well as application tips for the newly popular single-part polyurea floor coatings as well.
While the actual application of a garage floor coating can be accomplished by one person, we highly recommend using a minimum of two people. This is due to the fact that higher solids epoxy is time sensitive during the application process. Two or more installers will ease the anxiety that some people experience, it reduces the chance of errors, and it ensures that you can cover a larger area of your garage floor in a shorter amount of time.
If you are installing a DIY single coat epoxy paint kit such as those by Rust-Oleum, Quikrete, H&C, Valspar, and etc., you can still follow most of this guide. Because these are lesser expensive low solids kits, they go down much thinner and have a longer pot life that allows you to work with a roller out of a paint tray.
Note: Please be aware that this guide does not overrule any specific instructions provided by the manufacturer. If in doubt, always contact the manufacturer with any questions that you may have.
Preparing your garage floor for epoxy
The single biggest reason that garage floor coatings fail is due to poor floor preparation. This is where all the hard work is at and is why it is so important to learn how to do it properly. Many times a good epoxy product is put to blame when actually it was the fault of applying it to a poorly prepared surface.
The second reason for failure is applicator error. This usually occurs because many epoxy floor coating instructions are rather vague and not detailed enough. When this happens, the DIY installer is left to guess and fill in the details for him or herself. Applicator error is reduced significantly when you better understand the process of applying a floor coating or epoxy paint product.
A very important tip is to thoroughly read through the application instructions at least twice before starting your project. If you have any questions, call the vendor where the product was purchased or the manufacturer of the product. Most provide toll free numbers to help with these application questions.
Inspect the garage floor
Before you purchase any coating, the first thing you want to do is inspect the garage floor to make sure the concrete will accept a floor coating. Epoxy will not adhere well to sealed or painted concrete.
This also includes any “cure and seal” that may have been applied to the concrete after it was poured. If you have a sealer of some type, it will need to be removed first by mechanical means such as grinding.
You can test for sealers that may be present in bare concrete by sprinkling water on the surface. If the water beads up immediately without turning the surface darker, then you most likely have a sealer that will need to be removed. If the water doesn’t bead and the concrete turns darker as the water slowly soaks into the concrete, then no sealer is present.
If you still are not sure that your garage floor is sealed and you have planned on acid etching the concrete for the surface preparation, then go ahead and apply some acid etch solution to a small area to test it. If it immediately begins to turn yellow and fizz then you do not have sealed concrete. If the acid just sits there with little to no reaction, then you have a sealer on the concrete.
Make note of any cracks, pitting, or spalling that needs to be repaired. Though epoxy is self-leveling, it will not fill-in cracks. If you have extensive cracks or repairs that need to be made, you may want to consider an optional garage floor covering such as interlocking tile or garage floor mats instead.
For newly poured concrete, you need to let it cure for a minimum of 30 days for a typical 4” thick slab before applying a coating. Curing concrete is still releasing moisture and will cause the floor coating to delaminate if installed too early.
Moisture test the concrete
The next step is to inspect the garage floor for any signs of visible moisture and do a moisture test if necessary. What you should be looking for are areas of damp concrete or efflorescence.
Efflorescence is a white powdery substance that is formed on the surface. When moisture rises up from beneath the slab, it carries lime and other minerals with it. When the moisture evaporates at the surface, it leaves behind the white residue.
Efflorescence can also form due to the concrete collecting moisture at the surface from condensation. Also known as concrete sweating, it is most prevalent during humid periods of the year. Efflorescence from condensation will not affect a garage floor coating once it is removed before the application of epoxy.
If there are visible signs of moisture you will want to conduct a calcium chloride test to see if your garage floor will qualify for an epoxy coating. Most commercial epoxy products can withstand up to 4 lbs of moisture flow per 1000ft² per 24 hours. Always consult with the epoxy manufacturer or vendor first with the results of your calcium chloride test if you have moisture issues.
Even if the garage floor looks dry, moisture could be evaporating off the surface quicker than it can form and not be visible to the naked eye. At the minimum, you want to do the plastic sheet test if the concrete doesn’t show any visible signs of moisture.
Clean the garage floor
Once you have decided that the garage floor will accept an epoxy coating, the next step is to clean the surface of the garage floor. If the floor is new or free from any oils or greasy residues, then you can just sweep it good and continue on to the next step.
It’s important to remove any oil or grease stains from the concrete and pay particular attention to areas that may have absorbed tire dressing. These areas will act like a sealer by repelling water and will not allow the epoxy to adhere properly. This includes old glue and mastics as well.
If you need to protect your walls from water while cleaning, it’s a good idea to tape up some cheap plastic drop cloths to the wall at this time.
Complete your garage floor repairs
Once the concrete is cleaned, the next step is to make repairs to the garage floor where needed. Do not use a latex crack repair product when applying a garage floor coating.
Latex products are soft relative to the concrete and the epoxy. Additionally, latex repair products will shrink as they age and can create a depression underneath the floor coating that can highlight the repair. Lastly, most coatings will not adhere well to latex.
If you are opting for the seamless floor look and you want to fill in your contraction joints, now is the time to do that.
Remember that when making crack repairs or going for the seamless look, it is very important to make sure that the surface of the affected areas of the garage floor are smooth and flat. If not, the repaired areas and seams can telegraph through the coating and reveal themselves. The best way to do this is to grind these areas after the repairs have cured in order to create a smooth and even transition that will not show through.
If you have done extensive repairs, one tip is to go heavy with the color flakes if you are opting for that look. The color flakes do a good job of hiding smaller imperfections in the concrete.
Profiling the garage floor
Once the concrete is clean, the next step is to profile the garage floor. Profiling is the process of exposing the pores in the surface of the concrete for the epoxy to flow into and achieve a good bond. This is the most important part of garage floor prep. Read here to learn more about why it’s necessary.
You can choose to either acid etch or grind the surface of your garage floor to achieve the proper profile. Grinding the floor is the preferred method by most professional installers and epoxy manufacturers, but a proper acid etch is adequate for most applications.
You can learn how grind a garage floor here and how to acid etch a garage floor here.
Make sure to vacuum the entire floor with a good shop vac thoroughly after grinding. You should be able to run your fingers over the concrete without the finger tips getting very white.
Some white dust on your fingers is normal as you won’t get it all. However, if your fingers are coated with it, then you have more vacuuming or sweeping to do. One tip is to wipe the surface down with denatured alcohol on a microfiber pad if you think there may be too much dust.
If you decide to acid etch, make sure to allow the garage floor enough time to dry completely before applying the epoxy. If you don’t, moisture being released from within the concrete can create bubbles and in some cases, delamination issues. Unless you are using a water based epoxy primer that allows for application on damp floors, you will need to wait a minimum of 24 to 48 hours for the floor to dry completely, sometimes longer if the weather is more humid. Use fans if necessary to help facilitate the process.
Required tools and supplies
The following is a list of tools and supplies that you will need. If you are purchasing a garage floor epoxy kit from an online vendor, some of these tools and supplies may be included with the kit.
We also included optional tools such as 18” rollers. They are not mandatory, but the wider rollers make the application process go much quicker. We highly recommend these if you are covering areas larger than 500 ft².
- Tarp for mixing station (6’x8′ works well)
- Variable speed drill
- Mixing paddle (jiffy mixer)
- Paint stir sticks
- 1qt., 2.5qt., & 5qt. calibrated containers – for mixing quantities for smaller sections
- 3 gallon or 5 gallon buckets for mixing (1 for each coat plus any additional for batch mixing)
- Latex gloves
- Rags
- 1 gal. MEK or acetone for clean up
- 9” roller frame
- 3/8” nap premium lint free phenolic core rollers (1 for each coating)
- Standard paint tray and liners (for water-based epoxy or polyurea and polyurethane coatings)
- Threaded pole extension for roller frame
- 3” Chip brushes (1 for each coat)
- Spiked shoes for full color flake floors (1 pair for each installer)
- 10” drywall taping knife (for heavy color flaked floors)
- Heavy duty painters tape
- Cheap plastic drop cloths
Optional Tools
- 18” roller frame
- 18” 3/8” premium lint free phenolic core rollers (1 for each coating)
- 18” painters tray
The 18” roller frames, rollers, spiked shoes, and paint tray will most likely need to be purchased online if your kit does not come with them. Some home improvement centers carry them. These products greatly improve the speed and ease of applying a garage floor coating.
Amazon is a great place to find some of your supplies. You can find some examples in the links below.
9″ roller covers – Pro/doo-Z, Purdy, and Epoxy Glide all use phenolic core rollers
Spiked shoes allow you to walk out onto the coating during installation and for tossing the color flakes. We recommend a pair for each installer.
Application of the epoxy to your garage floor
First and foremost – always unpack and inspect all garage floor coating kits and supplies that you order well before you plan to start. More than one person has gone through the process of prepping their garage floor only to open up kits and packages on the day that they plan to apply it and find something was wrong with the order. Don’t let that person be you.
One note we want to make you aware of when it comes to the application of epoxy. Many of the videos that you can watch online showing the epoxy application process do not use 100% solids epoxy. They are using a thinner water or solvent-based epoxy that can be rolled out of a paint tray like you are painting a wall. The video shown below is an example of this, but it still does a good job of giving you an idea of what is required.
High solids and 100% solids commercial quality epoxy is much thicker and requires that you pour the epoxy out onto the floor immediately after mixing. It is then rolled out and back rolled as the final process. That is the method that we discuss here.
Floor prep and application of a base color coat, full color flake, and epoxy top coat
Once the floor is properly prepared, now is the time to double check your materials list, required tools, check the weather, insure that you have a proper work station for mixing, and go over your game plan.
If your garage floor extends out past the garage door and doesn’t end at a slab joint, you will want to tape off the floor where the garage door seal meets the floor. Remember that you will need to remove the tape about 30 minutes after the epoxy has set. If not, the epoxy will be too hard and you will have torn tape residue in your clean line.
You will need to re-tape for each additional coat. Tape residue is not a big issue if you plan on installing a garage floor door seal afterwards since it can be installed over the tape line.
Temperatures and humidity for epoxy
Epoxy as well as other garage floor coatings are influenced by weather and can affect curing times, viscosity, and adhesion. This is why temperature and humidity play an important role when applying epoxy to your garage floor and why you want to check the forecast before you start.
Most epoxy paint coatings can be applied in temperatures from 55 to 90 degrees, with temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees considered ideal. Since coatings are exothermic and chemically cure rather than dry like paint, your working pot life shortens as the temperatures rise and lengthens if it is cooler.
Please read up on applying epoxy in cool temperatures if you are worried that it may not be warm enough to install properly.
Single-part polyurea coatings have temperature minimums as low as 40 degrees. This is one of their advantages. Check the data sheets or call the vendor to find this information.
Humidity and dew point are important factors as well. Do not apply epoxy and other coatings if the humidity is forecast to be over 85% and/or the temperature of the substrate (concrete) is 5 degrees or less above the dew point.
A very thin film of moisture can form in these conditions and have an adverse effect on how the epoxy bonds to the surface. It can also cause blushing of the epoxy as it cures. Always check with the epoxy manufacturer first as these guidelines are general in nature.
If you know that the conditions may change to put you outside these parameters, then you should delay installation.
Mixing your epoxy coating
These epoxy mixing instructions apply to each coat that you will be applying to your garage floor. Always consult with the manufacturer’s instructions first.
In addition, we include general mixing instructions for single-part polyurea below.
Before you start, lay a tarp or large piece of cardboard down on your driveway just in front of the garage to establish your mixing work area. It’s a good idea to place the edge of the tarp near the edge of the garage floor to ensure nothing is spilled on the driveway.
Make sure all the tools, supplies, and cleaning materials that you will need are laid out and available. Now is a good time to put on the latex gloves and spiked shoes if required.
The colored resin for epoxy (typically part-A) tends to settle. To ensure proper color, it’s important to mix the colored resin first in its respective container. Make sure to scrape the bottom of the container with your paint stick to get all the colored tint that has settled. Be careful. Never introduce any residue from part-A to part-B or vice versa. You will start the chemical reaction if you do.
If the size of your floor requires using more than one kit per coating, it is recommended to batch mix. This is done by first pouring all containers of the part-A colored resin together in one bucket to mix. This will ensure that you get even color uniformity for each kit you need to mix.
Now that you are ready, start by pouring the part-B hardener from one kit into a 3 – 5 gallon mixing bucket first, followed by the part-A resin. The part-B hardener is lower in weight and viscosity than the more sticky part-A resin and will flow up and around the sides of the bucket as the part-A is poured in. This greatly reduces the inconvenience of separating the sticky part-A from the sides and bottom of the bucket as you are mixing.
Important: If you have batch mixed, pour the required amount of part-A colored resin into a measuring container first before adding it to the part-B.
If you are mixing the final coat or top coat and plan on using anti-slip media, now is the time to add that as well.
Using your mixing paddle and drill, slowly start mixing the epoxy for a minimum of two minutes. Be sure to work the bottom and edges of the bucket to ensure the entire contents of each part are mixed. The colored veins need to disappear. If the two components are not mixed completely the epoxy will not cross-link well and can develop curing problems that will lead to a substandard coating.
It’s very important when mixing not to run the drill too fast or pump the mixing paddle up and down hard. Doing either of these this will introduce air into the mix which will be rolled into the coating and create air bubbles at the surface. The epoxy should have a nice even consistency without any color streaks.
It is extremely important to follow the manufacturer’s directions when mixing the epoxy. If mixing smaller quantities, all measurements should be exact. If you are using something other than 100% solids epoxy, check the manufacturer’s instructions about induction time. The mix may need to sit for a required amount of time before applying to the concrete. Failure to do so can lead to a coating that will not harden properly.
Mixing single-part polyurea
Though single-part polyurea does not require mixing of A and B components, some do require mixing in tint packets for color. Mix the the respective tint pack for each container first. After that, pour each colored container into a 5 gallon pail to mix again. This ensures color uniformity for the entire coating.
If the polyurea comes already tinted, just mix each container for settling and then pour them into a 5 gallon bucket to mix again. As before, this ensures color uniformity for the entire coating.
As with epoxy, always premix both tinted and clear polyurea first to avoid issues with settling.
Applying the first coat
Depending on which epoxy coating system you are installing, your first coat will be a primer coat or the color base coat. Contingent on the manufacturer, you will have approximately a 40 minute working window during ideal conditions.
This window will shorten if the temperatures are warmer than ideal and lengthen if it’s cooler. Pay close attention to this window.
If you are applying polyurea, then you have plenty of time to get the product applied. In most cases, you will be working out of a paint tray.
Make sure your chip brushes, rollers, and epoxy are staged and ready to go. If this is your color coat and you are applying vinyl color flakes, make sure they are staged and ready as well.
After the epoxy is mixed, immediately start pouring it out in a 1”-2” ribbon along the back border of its designated section. Continue working the ribbon back and forth across the entire section until it’s all poured out.
Do not pour the mix out over the minimum coverage rate for the amount mixed. For example, if you mixed 1.5 gallons to cover 200ft² – 250ft², pour the entire amount of epoxy out in ribbons up to 200 ft² of floor. Because it’s the first coat and you don’t know how much epoxy the concrete will soak up initially, it’s best to start rolling for 200 ft² of coverage first. If you have additional epoxy left over after rolling the 200 ft², continue rolling on the additional 50 ft² if it allows without stretching it.
Once poured out on the floor, start in the back corner and begin rolling it out. Be sure to preload your roller with a ribbon of epoxy first. This will remove air in the roller and alleviate the chances of rolling air bubbles into the coating. Take care to keep the roller loaded at all times. It’s OK to roll rather quickly.
While the epoxy is being rolled out, the second installer should preload the chip brush and with his spiked shoes on, start cutting in at the edges. Once done, he can be ready to start mixing another batch of epoxy or start applying the optional vinyl paint chips over the parts of the floor that have been back rolled already.
Once you are done rolling out a section, it’s time to start back rolling. Back rolling the epoxy is important because it helps to eliminate bubbles, roller marks, application imperfections, and provides for a uniform thickness of the epoxy.
Start the back rolling process by rolling forward and then rolling back on the same track in a direction that is perpendicular (90 degrees) to the direction the epoxy was initially rolled out. Cover about 6’ or more in your pass letting the natural weight of the roller do the work. Make a second pass if necessary to smooth the epoxy out.
At the end of your back roll, pick the roller up and move it over for your next pass while making sure to overlap the prior one. Continue across the floor this way until you need to start a new row, making sure the new row overlaps the prior row. It’s OK to walk on a back rolled section in your spiked shoes if necessary.
If you are using the 18” rollers, the initial application and back rolling will go almost twice as fast as the 9” rollers. It also reduces the amount of chances by almost half to create a roller line in the epoxy.
If your first coat is the primer coat, it’s OK to spread it out a bit thin if you feel as though you are running out before you complete your first section or the entire floor. This can happen if the floor is more porous in certain areas and soaks up more primer.
Do not spread the epoxy thin if it’s the color coat however. The color coat is the high build coat. Spreading it thin will decrease the durability of the floor and the appearance will be less glossy which is noticeable.
Don’t worry about the contraction joints or saw cuts when rolling. The roller should pull any additional epoxy out of the joint as long as they are not too deep. If the roller doesn’t, you can use the chip brush to push the additional epoxy out of the joints as you roll.
Also, touch up any areas that need it immediately. If you wait till the back rolling is done before you touch up, the epoxy can become somewhat tacky and make the touched up area look worse.
If working alone, cut in with the chip brush first after pouring out the epoxy onto the floor. Work quickly and start rolling the epoxy after cutting in. After you are done back rolling you can start tossing color flakes if you are using them.
Any remaining epoxy on the floor can be scooped up with a wide putty knife, drywall taping knife, or old dustpan and deposited into the mixing bucket for disposal.
When done, you now have time to cleanup while your first coat cures. Remove the roller from the frame and throw it into the used mixing bucket. Throw the chip brush in there as well and let it all harden before dumping it in the trash. Use your rags and cleaning solvent to clean your spiked shoes, squeegee, roller frames, mixing paddle, and anything else that may have collected epoxy during the process.
A note about applying epoxy in sections
Many times a garage floor can be divided up into smaller sections. This is generally done if you are going to be applying the garage floor coating by yourself. The best way to do this is to use the garage floor contraction joints or saw cuts as the natural divider. Figure out the square footage for each smaller section and adjust your epoxy mix accordingly.
If you don’t use these joints or you are going for the seamless garage floor look, you will need to have a newly mixed batch poured out onto the garage floor just as you are finishing the back roll of the previously mixed batch. Since it only takes a few minutes to mix a batch of epoxy, have a second helper do this just as you are finishing the back roll of the current section.
When doing this, it’s important to keep a wet edge going at all times. If you don’t get the next batch down in time, it will create an overlap of one section onto the other that will be visible in the coating.
Also, it’s best to keep your wet edge as short as possible. If the garage floor is much more wide than deep for example, work from side to side instead of front to back. This will provide for a shorter wet edge to worry about. Working in this method, it’s fairly easy to cover very large areas of flooring when two or more people are involved in the process.
Bugs and critters on epoxy
After each coating is applied, it’s important to take steps to prevent bugs and other critters from getting into your coating while it cures, particularly if it’s the final coat. This can be very important depending on what area of the country you live in. You also want to prevent dust or leaves from blowing in underneath the garage door and getting into the coating as well.
The best way to do this is to close the garage door to within a few inches or so from the floor once done. Do not let the garage door seal come in contact with the epoxy. Use a cheap plastic drop cloth and tape it to the garage door, the floor, and the edges of the garage opening to form a nice seal. This will prevent dust, bugs, and crawling critters from getting onto your floor and getting stuck while it cures.
Epoxy recoat window
Once your first coat of epoxy is applied, you will have a general window of 10 to 24 hours before applying your second coat. This is based on ideal temperatures. These times can change by a few hours depending on temperature. Always check with the manufacturer for recoat times.
There are exceptions, however, with certain types of coatings. Some polyurea and polyaspartic coatings can be recoated in as little as one hour. Other coatings such as RockSolid Polycuramine allow for up to 7 days to recoat.
You can test the epoxy to see if it’s ready to recoat by using the thumb print method. Do this by pressing your thumb down onto the surface. It should not leave a thumb print or feel real tacky to the touch. If it does then it is not ready for a recoat yet.
If you are doing a top coat on the color coat, be careful about trying to get on the floor too soon. Unlike the thinner primer coat, the color coat is a high build coat and if you are out on the floor too soon, you can leave marks all over the floor.
If you wait longer than the prescribed recoat window, you will need to rough up the surface of the coating before applying another coat. You can do this by using 120 grit sandpaper on the surface and then wiping it down with denatured alcohol.
Applying the second coat
Your second coat will be the color coat or top coat depending on which epoxy coating floor system you are installing. The mixing and application instructions are the same as the first coat if you are using epoxy.
One exception to the second coat is that you don’t have to worry about how much epoxy may be absorbed by porous concrete. Because it is being applied over another layer of epoxy, the coverage rate for this coat will be very consistent. Since this is your high build coat, pay particular attention to covering only the square footage it was mixed for in order to ensure the maximum dry film thickness as advertised by the manufacturer.
Once done, make sure to seal up the garage to protect the coating from bugs and debris as before.
Applying the vinyl color flakes
You need to start applying the vinyl color flakes after you finish back rolling each mix of your color coat. Do not stress about getting all the flakes applied within the working window of the epoxy.
As long as you start applying them within a few minutes after the final back roll of each section you will be OK. You can learn more about color flakes and how they are applied here.
Unless you are coating small sections at a time, make sure you have your spiked shoes on so that you can walk out onto the floor. Be careful not to slip and leave long streak marks that you will have to repair by back rolling. The small marks from walking with the spikes will close up on their own.
If you are broadcasting the vinyl color flakes to full refusal, it’s a good idea to wait another 10 minutes or so after you are done to check for bare spots that may occur from the flakes sinking into the epoxy. Reapply as necessary.
If doing a partial color flake floor, divide up your total mix of color flakes into the same amount of sections that you are coating. That way your garage floor will get an even distribution of color flakes from one section to the next. If you have broadcast to full refusal, you don’t need to worry about getting the top coat on within 24 hours. The rough vinyl chip surface is what the top coat will adhere to, not the curing epoxy surface.
Epoxy, polyurethane, or polyurea clear top coat
If you are using epoxy for your top coat, mix and apply the epoxy just as you would your color coat. If you have planned on using a non-slip additive, now is the time to introduce it into your mix.
Because the epoxy is clear in color and harder to see, you may need to lean down and check your work at different angles to make sure you don’t miss any spots. This is important in order to get the surface back rolled properly.
If you are using polyurethane or polyurea for your top coat, the addition of a non-slip additive is the same, but the application process is a little bit different.
Polyurethane and polyurea is designed to be rolled onto the floor out of a paint tray instead of being poured onto the floor like epoxy. It has a much longer pot life, 2 to 4 hours depending on temperature, so you don’t have to worry about rushing it.
Once mixed, pour the contents into a paint tray and start with one person cutting in along the walls with the chip brush while another rolls the floor out of the paint tray. If you are applying it by yourself, don’t cut in for more than 10 minutes or so before rolling because you want to keep a wet edge at all times.
Double check to make sure you haven’t missed any areas as you go along. It can sometimes be difficult to see the clear coating as it goes down depending on the light. Once you have done a small section, back roll just as you would the epoxy. Continue on with cutting in and rolling until the floor is complete.
Because polyurethane has a 2 to 3 mil dry film thickness, one coat on a full color flake floor is not enough. It will produce a very thin, rough coat because of the texture from the layers of color flakes. Two coats are the minimum recommended to produce the desired protection. Three coats are better in order to provide a smoother surface.
Polurea is almost twice as thick a polyurethane. As a result two coats of clear polyurea is usually sufficient for a full flake coverage.
Do not attempt to apply polyurethane or polyurea on real thick like epoxy. If you do, it can cause solvent bubbling, orange peel effect, roller marks, and even a cloudy appearance.
Anti-Slip Additives
Whether you are doing a single coat epoxy floor coating or multiple coats, anti-slip additives should almost always be added to the last and final coat.
The most effective method is to add the anti-slip additive to the mix bucket as you are mixing the Part A and Part B of your final coat.
If you are using a polyurethane or polyurea out of a paint tray, do not let the mixed material sit in the tray too long or it will sink to the bottom and the roller will not pick it up in clumps.
You can read more about how to use ant-slip additives and what types are available here.
Epoxy coating your stem walls
Many times questions come up about coating the stem walls of a garage. These are the raised concrete or block supporting structure that runs the perimeter of the garage floor. You can easily coat these as well; just remember to account for the additional epoxy required. Many times they don’t require much prep because they do not have a smooth surface like the floor.
Just pour the mixed epoxy out on the top of the stem wall (do not keep it in the bucket) and apply with a chip brush or small paint roller.
Always do the stem walls first with each coat you apply to the floor. If you plan on applying color flakes to the wall, you will have to toss them at the wall fairly aggressively in order to get them to stick properly. The trick is to use much smaller handfuls if you are doing a partial coverage floor.
As a tip, if you don’t feel the need to apply color flakes to the stem wall, some people elect to color match their epoxy with a simple 1-Part epoxy paint or concrete floor paint. They then use that for the stem wall without a clear coat. These are less expensive than epoxy and very easy to apply. Plus, you are not walking on your stem walls so you do not have to worry about durability.
Epoxy floor curing times
Once the final top coat is applied, you need to wait a minimum of 18 – 24 hours before the floor can accept foot traffic. Wait an additional 24 hours before moving things back onto the floor, and a total of 72 hours before vehicle traffic. Some polyurea floors will accept vehicles within 48 hours.
Remember that the epoxy floor coating will cure slower when temperatures are cooler than ideal, so you should adjust your wait times accordingly. It takes approximately 7 days for the garage floor coating to harden to its full strength.
Final tips
When purchasing your floor coating of choice, it’s very important to make sure that you have enough to cover the entire garage floor. This is especially true if you elect not to use a primer coat. Some concrete slabs can be more porous than others and soak up more or the coating than estimated in the first coat. This doesn’t take into account what remains behind in the mixing bucket as well as the individual A and B containers.
We like to follow the rule of 10%. Once you figure out your square footage, add 10% to that number (up to 1000 sf.) to come up with the amount of square footage you need to coat for your garage floor.
While a garage floor coating can easily be applied in smaller sections with one person, we highly recommend using two people for installation. It reduces mistakes from rushing and you can coat the average 2-car garage floor (not including stem walls) in less than an hour with 2 mixed batches.
Learning how to apply epoxy to a garage floor isn’t hard once you understand the finer points of the application process and all your questions are answered. Get your game plan written out if necessary before you start and make sure all your tools are available and ready to go.
Good luck and enjoy your brand new garage floor coating!
brandy says
Is it mandatory to use a top coat/clear coat or can it be done with out it?
Shea says
Great question Brandy. No it’s not mandatory to use a clear top coat, but there are a few advantages to doing so. The first is that it will give the floor coating a look of depth and maintain a newer look for years. The second is that it will cover and protect color flakes if you choose to use them, plus it gives the floor additional durability. Third, you can easily reapply another clear coat again years later to give your coating a brand new look. Some people who don’t care for the clear look will do a top coat of color tinted polyurethane instead.
The disadvantage to not using a top coat is that the color coat looses the semi-gloss look quicker and tends to show the microscopic scratches and irregularities more than floors that do use them.
howard says
Hello… I applied epoxy floor coating to my garage. Did it last fall just before freeze-up, cured okay and quite pleased. Here’s a puzzle! I am noticing that when I get a heavy rain, I am getting water around the perimeter walls on top of the coating. It seems that perhaps the coating is not allowing the pad to evaporate moisture that is most likely wicking up from the earth. The water may be showing up under the wall framing 2×6, (where there is no coating) and beading on top of epoxy coating. I am wondering if you have encountered this before? I used treated 2×6 for the bottom plate when I built. Comments!?
Howard
Shea says
Hello Howard. You are correct, epoxy seals the surface of the garage and the moisture that is collecting underneath the slab is looking for a way out. This is what happens when a moisture barrier is not installed before the slab is poured. Hydrostatic pressure from moisture buildup can actually cause the epoxy to delaminate and sometimes lift chunks of concrete with it if the epoxy has a good bond. In order to reduce that risk we recommend making sure the rain water and runoff drains away from your garage and not puddle around it. This should help reduce the moisture problem you are encountering.
Peter says
I am planning to epoxy coat the garage floor using a solvent-based single coat product (Rustoleum Professional) and was intending on using the clear coat that is sold separately to improve on overall durability. However , the non-skid additive is intended for use as a mix-in with the 2-part epoxy coating and I have heard that it creates bubbles if mixed with the clear coat. Is this accurate? Will application of the clear coat on top of the epoxy flooring with non-skid completely negate the benefit of the additive?
Shea says
Hello Peter and thanks for the good question. It made us realize that we didn’t cover anti-slip additives in this guide. The Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Pro color coat and clear coat are the same product with the only difference being the tint added for color in the color coat. So it doesn’t make sense about bubbles in one but not the other. Rust-Oleum uses aluminum oxide for an anti-skid additive which is larger and more rough. If not applied correctly, it’s possible for it to pull out of the coating and create bubbles, but we haven’t heard of such an issue. Mixing the additive into the batch too aggressively can cause bubbles as well.
The correct way to use an anti-slip additive is to add it to the top coat. It will only get buried and be ineffective if mixed into a prior coat. For your project, mix the additive into the clear coat when you add the A and B parts together. Mix shortly again before pouring it into the paint tray as the additive likes to settle to the bottom. Our favorite to use is the Shark Grip for thinner coatings like yours. It’s harder to see and easier for cleaning. You can read more about using anti-slip additives here.
Richard says
When applying a solvent based coating and letting it dry, how long should flame sources be off?
Shea says
Providing the garage is ventilated and all remaining solvent based material put away or properly disposed of, you only need to keep ignitions sources off for a few hours after application. The smell will remain for a day or two however and is why you do not want to use solvent based materials indoors.
merlek says
Help! I had a “professional” painter do garage floor paint job on a concrete walkway. He finished with a clear coating but I felt the shine was not enough. So I decided to do another coat myself. Its been 8 hours now and it turned cloudy. What can I do to remove the cloudiness?
Shea says
Hi Merlek, are you sure it was actually paint? The reason we ask is that paint cannot be clear coated. Was it maybe a stain? What clear coat product did you use? Acrylic clears are popular for outside and the biggest mistake people make is putting them on too thick. They need to go on thin. If put on too thick they turn cloudy. Moisture will create the same problem, such as applying during high humidity. The way to fix it is to sand it down past the cloudiness and reapply.
merlek says
Thanks for the info, Shea. The painter did the entire walkway as per garage floor instructions – acid clean, etch, bonding. Epoxy paint, speckled and he put one coat of clear on. Last night I washed and scrubbed the walkway with clear and soapy water. The grey film disappeared but this morning it was back again. The products that we used were the garage floor epoxy kit from Lowes. In the event that it has to be sanded, should
I use sand paper or an electric sander?
Shea says
It sounds like you have amine blush. This occurs to epoxy when moisture is introduced during application. It’s most common with high humidity and hot conditions. For a large area, a 60 grit sanding screen on a floor buffer is your best bet. You can use sandpaper on a block sander or orbital sander, but it clogs easily. Wipe clean with denatured alcohol and reapply during the appropriate conditions.
One note we want to make. Epoxy is not designed to be applied for outdoor use. The color coat and clear coat will amber (turn yellow) in a short time when exposed to the sun. Keep in mind that unless you apply an anti-slip to the final finish as well, it will be slippery when it gets wet.
Marie says
Hi there. I had a professional painter epoxy the garage floor 8 months ago (Feb 2013) It looks and performs great (he cleaned the concrete, sanded & etched the surface in preparation to apply the color epoxy) It looks great but unfortunately he did not add a ‘non slip additive’ and the floor is DANGEROUSLY slippery if my feet or shoes are the slightest bit wet…. and rain days make the floor nearly impossible to walk sure footed. The painter applied 2 coats but I do not think he applied a clear coat. Is it possible to now add a clear coat with a ‘non slip’ agent? Will it require all the steps to clean, sand, etch? Thanks!!
Shea says
Hi Marie. Yes, you can add a clear coat. We recommend a polyurethane clear coat as it is the best medium to apply a non-skid additive. Prep is much easier than the concrete. You need to rough up the surface with 80 -100 grit sandpaper. You are just roughing it up to provide bite for the coating, you are not trying to remove any of the epoxy. Sweep and vacuum well then wipe down the floor with denatured alcohol and you are ready to apply the clear coat.
Kiko says
Hi All Garage Floors,
I have 2 questions for you…
1) Time wise, money wise is it better to do it yourself or let Professionals to do it? As I notice the process, the curing etc…will takes a lot of time, from foot traffic to vehicle traffic. The reason I ask this question I only have a Sunday off.
2) Can you recommend someone reputable from Antelope Valley Ca.?
Thanks you so much…
Shea says
Hello Kiko. Doing the floor yourself will save you quite a bit of money. A 3 coat system including primer installed yourself runs on average $1.5 a square foot as compared to $4 to $5 dollars for a professional installation. It’s up to you to decide how much your time is worth vs having someone else do it for you. It will take a few days however for prepping the concrete and application of the product. We would like to make a recommendation for you but we are not familiar with anyone in your area.
Neil Hopkins says
Can an epoxy floor be applied to a heated garage floor?
Shea says
Hi Neil. Yes, it can. There are no issues with epoxy and heated floors. It’s very common in the colder states.
Richard says
I am cleaning my painted garage floor in preparation for grinding and epoxy. There is an area of several square feet which was subject to an overspray of silicone lubricant. I scrubbed the area with a strong Tide solution, rinsed and vacuumed up the water. Is there a need to do any additional prep to this area before grinding?
Shea says
Hi Richard. If the area was on the painted surface then you shouldn’t have any worries at all as the silicone should not have penetrated the paint. If it’s in an area where the paint was patchy and the silicone could have come in contact with bare cement, then scrubbing with tide is a great start. As long as it did not penetrate too deeply, the grinding should remove most of it. Just be sure to test the area with some water drops to make sure the concrete absorbs the water and does not repel it after you are done grinding.
Hugh says
Is there any problem with putting down an epoxy floor while it is raining?
The can says something about 75% relative humidity affecting the epoxy.
I am using 100% epoxy, should I wait a day for the rain to pass, or is this a non issue?
Great job on the site, I appreciate all of the great information !!
Many Thanks
Shea says
Hi Hugh. Yes, there are big problems with applying epoxy while it’s raining. Wait till it passes and then check the humidity as well as the forecast. Higher humidity forms a microscopic layer of moisture across the concrete floor that will not allow it to adhere properly. You can also develop problems with the epoxy blushing as well as a host of other issues. Pay close attention to the manufacture’s directions and you will be fine.
Hugh says
Thank You.
Jim says
how long after applying 2nd coat and decorative chips do you wait before applying the clear seal????
Shea says
Hi Jim. Minimum 10-12 hours and no longer than 24 hours unless you did chips to full refusal. Because chips done to full refusal completely covers most of the epoxy, you don’t get the chemical bond. Instead, the clear coat actually adheres very well to the irregularity of the chips and as a result, you can wait longer than 24 hours if you need to.
Ben says
Hi,
I am working on prepping my garage floor for epoxy. I plan to do 2 coats enviro-poxy with lots of chips on the second coat, and of course the clear seal with grit. I first poured a cleaning solution over my oil spots and brushed them, then I pressure washed the whole floor(with cold water but a fairly powerful pressure washer)for about an hour and a half. I squeegeed the floor and let dry for 14 hours. I then used 20 grit sandpaper on a square buff rental over my roughly 580 sq ft- 2 car garage. It took me roughly 5 1/2 hours and I was fairly aggressive maneuvering the machine.
My question is, since I am somewhat leery about having gotten the oil spots properly removed, is it OK to pressure wash again with another solution AFTER having sanded the whole surface? If I allow proper drying time again, will I be ready to go straight to the epoxy?
Also, is some fairly minor concrete pitting OK? Or is it necessary to patch these areas to get a smooth finish and good bond? If so, what do you recommend?
I have a rainy day so i have put off applying epoxy for a few days until the weather drys out. Your answers to other peoples questions have been very helpful, Thanks
Shea says
Hi Ben. Test your oil spots by dripping some water on them. If the water is absorbed fairly quickly like the rest of the concrete then you are good to go. If it beads up and sits there then you have more spot cleaning to do.
It’s OK to wash again after grinding, just be sure to give the floor enough time to dry out or it will create problems. 14 hours for example is not long enough, especially after pressure washing. Pressure washers drive water deeper into the pores of the concrete which takes longer to dry out. Even though the surface may be dry, moisture vapor is still escaping and will create bubbles and air pockets in the epoxy. Wait at least 48 hours. To make sure you are dry, tape a 12″x12″ sheet of plastic to the floor with duct tape making sure all edges are sealed. Pull it up after 16 hours or so and if it’s dry underneath without condensation or damp concrete (dark spot) then you are dry.
Minor pitting will almost always telegraph through a coating, though a heavy coat of color flakes helps to hide it. We recommend mixing up a slurry of epoxy and sand to fill the pitting or if it’s only a few spots, you can use an epoxy patch filler. You can read more about it here. You will need to prep your repairs via sanding after they have cured.
sally says
Hi- do I need to acid etch clean a new concrete floor before I apply an epoxy sealer?
Shea says
Hello Sally. Yes, whether your concrete is new or old, you need to acid etch at a minimum in order to profile the surface of the concrete correctly for epoxy.
Dave says
I prepped my garage floor by pressure washing, scraping, etching, and pressure washer again. I only let the floor dry for 3 hours with a fan before applying the epoxy coat. What problems do you foresee occuring. Will a clearcoat help reduce any peeling. It’s a water based epoxy.
The surface was clean and dry to the touch.
Shea says
Hello Dave. Any problems that could have developed would have happened within a few hours or so of applying the epoxy. Water based epoxy can be applied to a floor as soon as you did, but you risk the chance of developing bubbles from the moisture vapor in the concrete trying to escape while the epoxy cures. If applied while the outside temperatures were cooling, then you reduce this chance. If your floor is 24 hours old without bubbles then you are good!
A clear coat will not help reduce peeling. Peeling is all dependent on floor prep and the type of epoxy used. We talk more about that here. A clear coat helps to protect increase the durability of the coating as well as enhance the looks.
Wynn says
So, I decided to put two coats of Rustoleum Professional and no paint chips, to lessen dirt from being caught/trapped and make it easy to find dropped things (I was going to put some cause I thought it would help with non-skid). I read here recoat is 12-24 hours (longer on other sites), but will do the thumb print check and check directions. Was there a specific type of epoxy roller or as long as it’s lint free?
Now wife is suggesting to put clear coat for wow effect, told her no, but hmm…. 2 car garage, but 3/4 of one side would be converted to an office, although it *can* be taken out if we decide to sell the house. With this new development, should i do the paint chips sparingly and then just clear coat /non skid the area not under the office? Will look nice unless office is taken out… but if polyurethane is used, assuming the rest is still in decent shape, I think it can just be sanded and recoated? As far the polyurethane, what kind is used for a garage? I don’t think a specific type is mentioned? Clear epoxy is advertised as “resist hot tire pickup” – I probably will only put the car maybe a few times a year, but is polyurethane normally resistive of hot tire pickup?
Shea says
Hi Wynn. There are a few different rollers that you can use, just make sure they are lint free and always run tape over the roller first before using it. Even the lint free rollers can have some lint residue left over from the manufacturing process. Quality lint free will not shed lint after it is taped. We like the Epoxy Glide Roller by Wooster.
You can rough up and recoat over both clear epoxy and polyurethane. Polyurethane is the better of the two and works well with the Rust-Oleum Professional for resisting hot tire pickup. You can purchase it from quality vendors online. You won’t find it in a home improvement center. As an example, EpoxyMaster has a good high performance polyurethane and Legacy Industrial has a great one as well. If you think that you may take out the office later, you may want to either flake or no flake the entire floor instead of only part of the floor.
Jon says
I was wondering, how long after using the rust oleum 2 part garage epoxy kits can i apply a second “base” coat without having to sand etc. We just put down the first kit (without the color chips) plan on doing another base coat (this one with the chips) then applying a clear coat. So do i wait 12 hours before applying the second coat? or wait until its tacky but wont leave prints ?
Shea says
Hi Jon. 12 hours is the approximate wait time. It varies by an hour or two based on temperature and humidity. As long as the floor is still somewhat tacky and doesn’t leave a thumbprint you should be fine. Try not to wait much longer than 24 hours however. Rust-Oleum says you can wait a little longer if necessary, but they don’t give the hard facts on time.
Anthony says
I purchased a RockSolid garage floor kit along with the Moisture Stop product; however, it is unclear whether I should etch the concrete before or after applying the Moisture Stop product? I cannot find this anywhere in the directions or online, and I don’t want to mess this up. Thank you.
Shea says
Hi Anthony. Yes, RockSolid could do a better job of explaining the correct process. They Moisture Stop is a penetrating sealer that they say can be used as a primer. The idea is to etch the concrete first, apply the Moisture Stop according to instructions and then apply the garage floor coating kit. However, they don’t come right out and state this. We recommend giving their customer service a call to verify the process. They tend to be slow at answering email so a call is much quicker.
E.O says
Hello, sorry if this was asked already, i purchased a primer ZeraPrime W130FS, they said i can apply the second colour coat after approximate 5hrs, is this so? also is there any harm in having the primer set for a long period 24hrs ? thanks
Shea says
Hello E.O. We are assuming you are referring to Zeraus coatings? If that is the case, their product sheet for ZeraPrime says to recoat in 6-8 hours. If you wait for 24 hours you may need to rough up the surface first by sanding. If you want to wait that long we suggest contacting the manufacturer for guidance with their product.
Karen says
I have a standard two car garage with the concrete floor extending out past the garage doors by thirteen inches. Between the edge of the concrete floor and the asphalt drive is a groove. One end of the groove is 3/4 inches wide (1/4 inch deep). The groove widens and deepens so that the other end is 1 1/2 inches wide and 2 1/2″ inches deep. There is dirt and the occasional weed growing in this groove.
I believe the purpose of this groove is to allow the concrete slab to settle without pushing up against (buckling) the asphalt.
I am planning to apply a single coat of 100% solids epoxy to the garage floor. I am trying to figure out how to apply the epoxy to the edge of the floor without filling in the groove and getting it onto the asphalt. I was thinking of pressing painter’s tape into the groove covering the bottom of the groove and the asphalt. How does that sound?
Shea says
Hi Karen. Yes that will work just fine. Just keep in mind that any epoxy that is outdoors is going to amber due to the constant U.V. light exposure. After a few months or so there will be a noticeable difference in color tint between the coating on the outside of the garage door and that on the inside. Most installers will terminate the coating at the door to avoid this.
Karen says
Hi Shea,
Thanks for your reply (8/5/15) about apply epoxy by the groove between the concrete garage floor slab and the edge of the asphalt driveway. Your DIY guide is thorough and so helpful – I have read it several times.
For the garage lip, you mention how most installers terminate the coating at the garage doors to avoid the yellowing of the epoxy exposed to constant UV light.
Can you tell me how you terminate the epoxy coating at the garage doors?
If the 100% solids epoxy coating is terminated at the garage doors, what do you suggest I put on the garage lips that is outside and exposed to the constant UV rays?
Shea says
Hi Karen. There are a few ways to terminate the coating at the garage door. The first is to tape it off with a good painters tape. You need to pull the tape up no longer than two hours after each coating. If you wait too long the tape will become embedded in the coating and fray as you pull it up. Another involves cutting a small groove in the concrete that will allow the coating to flow into the groove and naturally terminate there. It involves using a diamond blade on a small hand grinder and using a straight edge. The third option is to install a garage floor door seal and terminate at the seal.
Some homes such as yours have a 6″ to 12″ strip of garage floor that runs past the door to the driveway. You could seal that section with a penetrating sealer if you want to protect it from the elements. Another option is to top coat your epoxy with polyurethane of the same color. The polyurethane is U.V. stable. This would allow you to run the epoxy out the door since it would have a top coat of polyurethane.
If you haven’t purchased your product yet, Legacy Industrial has a new polyurea coating called Nohr-S that we will be releasing an article on shortly. It is 100% U.V. stable, has many of the same benefits of epoxy, cures fast, and has an extremely long pot life. It would work fine if extended out the door.
Jason says
Going to do my topcoat today within the 24 hour window. When I apply do I need to wear the spiked shoes or are regular shoes ok? Worried I’ll scratch it all up with spikes.
Shea says
The spikes won’t hurt the coating. You can wear regular shoes if you like, just make sure they are clean. The advantage of the spiked shoes is that they allow you to walk over the top coat if necessary when back rolling.
esb1922 says
I just painted my garage floor with Seal-Krete Epoxy paint twice (with 6 hours interval). Waited for 5 and half days, parked 2 cars. All looked like the paint can handle hot dry tires but then we had raining here and my garage floor is destroyed now, the paint has been lifted in 4 spots for each car – I guess hot wet tires can roll over the floor fine but when they sit on the paint overnight, they kind of stuck on it. I can patch those areas, of course, but am not sure how to prevent that from happening in future. Any ideas?
Shea says
Yes, the dreaded hot tire pickup is going to happen with 1-Part epoxy paint. It’s almost guaranteed to happen sooner or later. The main problem is that they are still a paint and not a true 2-Part epoxy coating. Unfortunately, the only thing you can really do after you make the repairs is to park your car on a mat to avoid the problem or just accept the fact that you will have to make the occasional patch repairs to the paint.
esb1922 says
yes, I’ve been thinking of putting a mat but can I do repairs and then 2-Part epoxy coating on the top? Is it possible and if yes will it help?
Shea says
You will have the same issue if you apply a much better coating on top. The problem is with the initial coating that is adhered to the concrete. It is the weak link in the chain. You would need to completely remove the 1-Part epoxy paint before installing a higher quality 2-Part epoxy system.
esb1922 says
I’m sorry to continue this… but it’s interesting – 2 days later, 2 cars back and forth multiple times, no damage from DRY hot tires, only from wet. Will wait until next rain.
Shea says
Yes, that is very interesting. The water shouldn’t have anything to do with it.
Ted says
I live in Ohio and recently built a new chimney with a concrete cap measuring 3′ x 8′ and I’m looking to seal the top of the cap with epoxy to keep out any water that might enter and damage it when freezing. I’d like to use a 100% clear epoxy with sand added to give it a natural look and I’m curious what my options are for the epoxy that I use? I’ve been looking at the EPOXY-COAT brand but don’t need the amount of material offered in their half kit (1.5 gallon, 250 sq. ft coverage). They sell a touch up kit (3 pints) that’s suppose covers 60 sq. ft but I’m leery it will be enough. Do I need to use flooring epoxy or could I use marine or counter top epoxy? Are there any brands that are satin or flat when cured?….thanks
Shea says
Hello Ted. Epoxy is not recommended for outdoors because it is not U.V. stable. It will amber within a few weeks or months and not achieve the natural look you desire. If you want to use a coating, we suggest contacting Legacy Industrial about their newer Norh-S polyurea coating. It is 100% U.V. stable, is available in quarts, but it does have a glossy finish. Mixing sand with the mix however will help to reduce that somewhat. Another simple solution is to apply a penetrating sealer to the concrete. It will not change the appearance and prevents freeze thaw issues and water penetration. Ask for Scotty and he can help you further.
Ted says
I appreciate your guidance and I’ve decided to use the Legacy Norh-S polyurea coating. How do you recommend I add the sand to the finish (mix it with the coating or broadcast it over it once applied and recoat over that)? Legacy recommends 3 coats for best results should I put on 2 coats and add the sand on the final coat?…thanks again
Shea says
Add the sand to the mix on the final coat Ted. Depending on how much sand you use, you may need a trowel to spread it out instead of a roller.
Kiho says
Thanks for your education…
Is it fine to apply water based epoxy on a rainy day?
Shea says
Hi Kiho. No, it’s not. Humidity is very high on rainy days and epoxy has both temperature and humidity limits for application. Check the TDS sheets of the epoxy you wan’t to use to find the application limitations.
Ofelia says
We had professional painted our garage floor with rustoleum professional epoxy from Lowes, last November 2014, we live in the dessert and now summer time, it’s hard to open garage door making a loud noise, seems like the rubber on the bottom of garage door sticking on the painted garage floor, they painted pass the garage door. what remedy can you suggest?? Please Help !!!
Shea says
Hi Ofelia. The epoxy has a smooth and clean surface. With the hot temperatures, the rubber seal on the bottom of your garage door is most likely becoming a little soft and tacky and the smooth epoxy is providing a nice medium for it to stick to. We recommend applying a liberal amount of talcum powder to the bottom of the rubber seal. Do this while it’s still hot outside as the powder will adhere to the rubber better. Just be sure to sweep up any excess that falls to the surface as it can be very slippery on the epoxy.