When RockSolid introduced its new line of Polycuramine garage floor and interior coatings, we were left scratching our heads at first. After all, what in the heck is Polycuramine? We admit we had never heard of it before. Moreover, what happened to the old RockSolid Polyurea garage floor coating, and why the change? Furthermore, why is Rust-Oleum’s name on RockSolid’s product?
After being asked by more than one reader, we decided it was time to see what the Polycuramine fuss was about. We wanted to know if it’s better than garage floor epoxy as RockSolid claims. In addition, we wanted to know why Rust-Oleum is involved.
Lastly, we wanted to determine if the Polycuramine garage floor coating is better than the older Polyurea coating that it has replaced. As a result, we have done a deep dive into RockSolid to get a better understanding of what this coating is and if we recommend it.
This article was first published in July 2014 and has been updated to reflect the latest information. Please read the latest update near the end. It reveals the most common complaints and issues over the years that you need to be aware of.
What is Polycuramine?
To best describe what Polycuramine is, we need a brief history of RockSolid Floors. This will help explain why Polycuramine was developed and how Rust-Oleum became involved.
RockSolid Floors was established in 2007 as an affiliate of Citadel Floor Finishing Systems. Citadel is a well-established, 40-year-old plus industrial floor finishing manufacturer that specializes in polyaspartic and polyurea technologies.
Realizing that there was a DIY demand for polyurea coatings, RockSolid Floors was born to provide a friendlier DIY version of the commercial quality Citadel polyurea. The RockSolid brand is probably best known for providing the A and B components in ready-to-mix sealed burst pouches that do not require a mixing bucket.
In January 2014, Rust-Oleum acquired Citadel and thus inherited the RockSolid line of floor coating products. As a result, all RockSolid products now come with Rust-Oleum branding. All customer service inquiries for RockSolid go directly to Rust-Oleum as well.
Polycuramine is a newly trademarked product that was developed the previous year by Citadel and found its way into the RockSolid lineup. It’s a proprietary blend that is alleged to combine the best benefits of Polyurea, Polyurethane, and Epoxy.
The following is a quote from a RockSolid sales page:
RockSolid Polycuramine™ is the best of Polyurea, Urethane, and Epoxy chemistries. It combines these three chemistries and their key attributes into ONE indestructible, self-leveling, flexible, fast curing, high gloss coating system.
RockSolid states that its Polycuramine garage floor coating is 20 times stronger than epoxy paint. It has a 96% solids content, a high gloss finish, and is impervious to all chemicals. The coating can be installed in one day, walked on in 8 – 10 hours, and driven on within 24 hours.
It also has the added advantage of an installation temperature range of 40°F – 90°F. In addition, RockSolid has a low VOC content with minimal odor and a limited lifetime warranty as well.
Each Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating kit consists of one burst pouch of colored Polycuramine to cover up to 250 ft². Included are decorative color flakes, the required foam roller, concrete etch solution, and of course instructions. There are six colors to choose from as well – Black, Dark Grey, Grey, Tan, Mocha, and Modern Griege.
You can view their information page and color chart here.
Our evaluation of RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating
We feel that this new lineup for RockSolid couldn’t have come at a better time. Though the Polyurea garage coat kit that it replaced was a fairly good product, many of the reviews for it by the average DIY installer were less than great.
There are many benefits to a polyurea garage floor coating, but the pitfalls for the old RockSolid polyurea DIY coating was is in the installation. As a result, there were numerous complaints about delamination and finish issues.
Many if not most of these issues were due in part to the limited application time available. Polyurea cures fairly quickly. If it wasn’t applied in 20 to 30 minutes, it would begin to thicken up and problems ensued. It just wasn’t that DIY-friendly.
For example, it would not have enough time to seep into the pores of dense concrete that was prepped by etching and not by grinding. This led to delamination issues of the coating. Secondly, if you didn’t get the product down fast enough, the finish would not be very glossy and could get bumpy or lose its smooth texture among other issues.
After doing a bit of research, we learned that these problems should be solved with the new RockSolid Polycuramine coating.
First, we called the Rust-Oleum tech line. They stated that the new RockSolid Polycuramine formula has superior wetting characteristics (similar to epoxy). As a result, it allows the coating to penetrate the concrete much better for superior adhesion. This is a big help for concrete that is etched instead of prepped by grinding.
In addition, we learned that you have 45 minutes to one hour to apply the Polycuramine. This should be more than enough time to apply up to 250 ft² of product. The longer pot life should alleviate many of the finish issues that resulted from the short installation window of before.
However, we do have to question some of RockSolid’s marketing methods. They claim that their new Polycuramine formulation is 20 times stronger than epoxy paint. Really? Their older polyurea product claimed it was only 4 times stronger.
Try as we might, we could not find an actual 2-part epoxy floor coating with only a 33% solids content as RockSolid compares it to. After digging a bit deeper, we discovered that what they are comparing it to is paint – 1 part epoxy paint that is (link). That is like comparing apples to oranges.
1-part epoxy paint is not an epoxy coating and the only product available with such a low solids content. We feel that this is misleading if not deceiving. They should be comparing it to a true 2-part epoxy. It’s tactics like this that create ruined expectations of garage floor coatings.
They also claim that the new Polycuramine blend combines the best of Polyurea, Polyurethane, and Epoxy. That isn’t necessarily true either. History has shown time and again for sealers and coatings that by combining the best of everything you will not get the best attributes of each ingredient.
Polyurethane for example is known for being very resistant to chemicals, has high abrasion resistance, and is U.V. stable. Though RockSolid Polycuramine has good chemical resistance, it is not U.V. stable and can yellow if exposed to direct sunlight for lengths of time – just as epoxy does.
It’s also not nearly as resistant to abrasion as most polyurethane or polyurea coatings. For example, the abrasion rate for Polycuramine is 40 mg. That’s about equivalent to a high solids epoxy and better than the inexpensive epoxy garage kits. However, a typical abrasion rating for polyurea is approximately 8 – 12 mg. You can find the RockSolid datasheets here.
This means that a polyurea coating would last much longer or wear many times slower than Polycuramine. We suggest reviewing how to read datasheets for coatings to learn more.
Another concern is that RockSolid Polycuramine is a thin coating. It has a dry film thickness of only 3 mils. That’s about half as thick as a typical polyurea coating. A high solids epoxy is approximately 8 – 10 mils thick for a DIY kit. Our guess is they need the coating to be thinner to get the coverage rate they require to keep the price point competitive.
As a result of the thin mil color coat, we recommend a second coat of clear Polycuramine to provide for an overall thicker coating. This will protect the color coat, and provide a deeper glossy look.
Would we recommend RockSolid Polycuramine?
With all that said, initial responses from consumers have been positive. Reports are that the new RockSolid Polycuramine garage coating formula is easier to apply DIY than the previous polyurea formula.
Few issues about the finish have been raised so far that we are aware of. In fact, it’s one of the most glossy coatings you can apply. Plus, the added benefit of being able to apply it in a wider range of temperature extremes is something you cannot do with epoxy garage floor coatings.
One nice advantage to the Polycuramine garage coat that we failed to mention is that it has a 7-day recoat window. This means that you can wait up to 7 days to apply another coat to the floor without having to prep it first. All that is required is to make sure it is clean.
This can be a great advantage to the average DIY installer who may only have a limited time to work on their floor. Most coating products have a recoat window of 24 hours or less.
Though the new RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Coat is only 3 mils thick, we feel this formulation is superior to that of comparable DIY coatings such as Rust-Oleum’s 2-part EpoxyShield product, Quikrete Epoxy garage floor coatings, or Valspar Epoxy Coatings as an example.
Yes, RockSolid Polycuramine is more expensive than these traditional DIY garage coat kits. However, the warranty is much better. Plus, it fills a void for the consumer who wants a quality DIY product that is easy to apply but may be intimidated by the cost and application of the thicker and more expensive multi-coat garage floor coatings.
RockSolid also has an easy-to-apply metallic garage floor coating which is now gaining some attention. It goes down twice as thick and has a very nice appearance.
This post may contain affiliate links. If you use these links to make a purchase, we may earn a small commission. As an Amazon Associate, All Garage Floors earns from qualifying purchases. You can read our full disclaimer here.
Where to purchase RockSolid Polycuramine products
We’ve had to update this section on multiple occasions since we first posted this article in early 2014. Rust-Oleum has since expanded the distribution of RockSolid and it is now available from most home improvement centers and online.
If you don’t have one of these stores near you, we suggest purchasing RockSolid Garage Floor Coatings here at Amazon. We have found that on many occasions it is available at a cheaper price.
In addition, you can find the optional RockSolid Clear Coat here.
Final thoughts
It’s too soon to know if RockSolid Polycuramine is the DIY wave of the future in garage floor coatings. However, it does appear to have much better performance and wear than the traditional DIY epoxy garage floor kits found at your local home improvement centers and auto stores.
Reviews so far have been positive and you can bet we will be keeping a close eye on the developments of this new product.
———- 2023 UPDATE ———-
It’s been over 8 years now since we first evaluated and wrote about the new RockSolid Polycuramine garage floor coating. To date, we have heard very few issues relating to the actual performance of the coating in terms of adhesion, hot tire pickup, and wear.
This is a strong indicator that it performs and lasts longer than the traditional low solids DIY garage floor coating kits such as EpoxyShield.
However, we have found that there is one primary flaw with RockSolid. Simply put, RockSolid does not provide enough coating material for the coverage rates they list. And this creates a couple of irritating issues that people are not happy about. The first is color uniformity and finish.
If you scroll down you will see that we have well over 900 comments for this article. A good percentage of these are questions or complaints regarding cosmetic problems with single-color coat applications.
These people have been reporting patchy areas or sections of the coating that appear less glossy and/or slightly different in color. Some have also complained about small spider cracks showing through.
The source of these issues is due to the coating being too thin in those areas. As with all coatings, if a single coat application on bare concrete is too thin, the appearance of the coating will not be good. The color tone and finish will change and lose gloss. It can even look slightly transparent with the concrete color showing through.
There is a reason why this happens with RockSolid.
As we originally stated, Polycuramine penetrates properly prepared concrete well – as it should. In addition, the density and porosity of a concrete slab can vary. This means that some areas of the concrete will absorb more coating than others. This is normal.
When RockSolid Polycuramine is applied to slabs that are less dense and/or more porous in areas, the limited amount of material (90 oz) provided in one burst pouch mix does not provide enough thickness at the recommended coverage rates to counteract the additional penetration and absorption of the material. As a result, the coating is too thin in those areas after it cures.
This isn’t necessarily a bad thing in terms of performance. You achieve a very good bond when the concrete absorbs the coating. However, this means you need to purchase and apply a second color coat to achieve the rich color, glossy finish, and durability that it should have. The first coat essentially acts as a primer coat.
The reason spider cracks tend to show through is due to the good penetration qualities of Polycuramine. It allows the thin cracks to absorb more material as it cures. As a result, the cracks show through and look dark. This can be avoided by properly filling spider cracks in the concrete (link) beforehand or by the application of a second coat.
The 250 ft² maximum coverage rate is only possible under ideal conditions consisting of newer concrete that is smooth, consistently dense throughout, and with no cosmetic defects. It can be obtained, however, when being applied as a second coat or over a previously coated floor that will not absorb the Polycuramine.
If you purchase RockSolid, we recommend a maximum coverage rate of no more than 200 ft² when applied to bare concrete. Slightly less is preferable. This should help provide for a thicker application. When it cures, it should be thick enough to provide a consistent color and glossy finish.
If you prep your garage floor concrete via grinding, then you will require a minimum of two color coats – period. The first acts as the primer coat and the second provides the required thickness to obtain the proper color and gloss.
There is something else to be aware of as well. RockSolid Clear Coat states that a single-car kit can be applied over the color coat of a 2.5-car kit – up to 500 ft². This makes the clear coat especially thin. Though consumers like the way the clear coat performs and looks, the number one complaint is that you need to use more than what Rust-Oleum RockSolid recommends.
The second big issue with RockSolid Polycuramine garage floor coatings is that it is more expensive than epoxy, particularly for what you get. And this is why we believe that Rust-Oleum RockSolid recommends the overly generous coverage rates. We are guessing that this was a decision that was made to try and keep the cost down to compete against epoxy kits.
To make things worse, Polycuramine has become even more expensive in the past few years. At the time of this update, you can purchase a much better commercial-quality single-part polyurea floor coating with the same coverage rates for less money.
These polyurea coatings are almost twice as thick as RockSolid. They have a very long pot life for easy application, they are U.V. stable, and have far superior abrasion ratings. Here is an example of a single color coat of AWF Polyurea that costs less for the same coverage.
The one consideration with these commercial quality polyurea coatings is that they are not low VOC coatings as RockSolid is. They should only be applied in a garage or similar environment and not inside a home such as a basement.
Our goal with this update is not to talk you out of purchasing a RockSolid Garage Floor Coating kit. However, what we are trying to do is inform and educate you about the issues you need to be aware of before making that decision.
Do we still think RockSolid is a good-performing DIY garage floor coating? Yes – if you follow our recommendations about coverage rates. However, there are now better performing easy-to-apply commercial-quality polyurea coatings that can be purchased for similar pricing.
Hello Shea. You were very helpful previously so I thought I’d try again. My installer initially applied Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield coating with an additional clear sealer as a second coat, but they hadn’t prepped properly; no etching or degreasing was done. So the product started to peel and we had hot tire pickup. He has since comeback and used a concrete grinder to remove the previous application and original paint that was applied to the concrete years ago. They etched and decreased, then yesterday applied Rust-Oleum RockSolid (polycuramine) with the colored chips. He doesn’t believe it needs a clear sealer on top of it. I just wanted to check to see what you think about that? Should a clear sealer be applied and, if so, what type/brand would you recommend? Thank you
Hi Marc. A clear coat is not required, however, it has many advantages. One of which is a more durable coating. We list reasons why you should consider a clear coat. If you elect to apply one, we recommend staying with the same brand. RockSolid allows up to 7 days to apply another coat.
Thank you, Shea.
We applied Rust-Oleum Garage coat 2-Part Black Gloss Garage Floor Polycuramine Kit approximately 6 months ago. Now the floor has some grease and other spills on it. What is your recommendation on how to clean the floor. It still looks amazing! Do we just use water and Dawn or something else?
Thanks
Hi Connie. You can spot clean messes first with a squirt of Simple Green or equivalent using a soft towel. We then recommend giving the floor a once over with a solution of 1/2 cup ammonia to 1 gallon of warm water. We discuss cleaning floor garage floor coatings here.
hi I’m getting ready to do my basement floor. I did the prep work before knowing what product we were going to use, we used meratic acid so the floor is ruff like sand paper. we got the rocksolid universal base floor coating kit with the marble additive and the directions say do not use muriatic acid. Should I roll on a coat of the universal base first with out the marble additive so that soaks into the concrete and builds a layer then the next day with my 2nd coat use the marble additive, then the clear coat?
Hi Adam. The reason RockSolid says not to use muriatic acid is because it provides a good CSP-1 profile. This is great for most coatings in order to achieve a good mechanical bond, but for RockSolid it ends up being too porous in many cases. The coverage rate is reduced and it has a patchy look because a single coat is too thin from being absorbed by the concrete (again, this is good for most coatings). If you apply two coats as you suggest, the second coat will achieve the coverage rate and dry film thickness that is required to get the look you want since it’s not being absorbed by the concrete.
ok, thank you for responding so fast
We are looking at doing our basement floor with the rock solid product. local harwdware stores have it on hand, but their website lists a coverage of 125 SF. i know you mention not exceeding 200 SF. Any idea on what we should try to follow for coverage per package? we would use the milder etching version you mention in your article.
We are also curious to know if we apply this finish in 2-3 applications how it would affect the finish?
Hello Josh. Are you sure you have the standard RockSolid garage floor coating kit and not the RockSolid Metallic coating kit?
i think i answered my own question. I did find the garage floor coating kit. My wife and i wanted to do the metallic coating kit, however for our approximately 450 SF of basement floor we would need to purchase the smaller 70 oz. kit. Which we would need 4 of them for proper coverage. Full disclosure, we want the product but the budget wasnt necessarily agreeing. It would be more economical for us to use the garage coating product (2.5 size) than the 4 kits of metallic. which is fine, but my follow up question would be if we could mix in a separate additive into the garage coating? for a similar, and potentially, less expensive cost.
Hi Josh. No, you can’t mix metallic additives into the standard kit. The base colors are not good and interfere with the metallic colors. In addition, the coating is thinner (this is the difference in coverage rates) and metallics need thicker coatings to flow correctly and provide the proper look.
Can i use rock solid universal base on a new plywood floor?
I have a 60 foot by 100foot area to do. Any recommendations? Thank you
Hello Tom. Technically you can apply it. It will require sanding the plywood with 80 grit sandpaper in order to provide the proper profile. It will not fill in the seams or other imperfections in the wood. In addition, the coverage rates will be reduced due to the porosity of the wood. You will need a minimum of two coats if tinting with color or it will look patchy.
I do not remember what brand kit I used to do my garage floor about 5 years ago, but it all delaminated and 99% of the paint is gone now. Spent five years sweeping paint chips. For prep, I pressure washed, acid etched, rinsed, let dry a couple days and vacuumed just like the directions said to do. I determined that it was a moisture issue. I know there is no moisture barrier below my floor. I know Rock Solid makes a moisture stop and you can even to do two treatments with that. There really aren’t any reviews anywhere that I can find that says this cured the same problem I have.
I want to try it, but I am afraid I will be sweeping up chips again for the next five years.
Can you tell me about the effectiveness of the moisture stop please?
Rob
Hello Rob. The Rust-Oleum RockSolid Moisture Stop is essentially a concrete densifier. It can slow down moisture intrusion and sometimes stop it if the moisture flow rate is not very great to begin with. You would need to properly prep the concrete for the coating first, apply the moisture stop, then wait at least a week for it to react with the concrete, and then you would have to test for moisture. If you still have moisture, then we do not recommend applying a coating.
I have an existing epoxy shield garage floor with some failure areas. Can the Rock Solid product be applied over epoxy shield?
Hello Fritz. It can be applied over it, but it is not recommended if you have areas of failure. Failures are a sign that the concrete was not prepped as well as it should have been. If you apply the RockSolid over it, you stand a chance of the RockSolid peeling up with the EpoxyShield since that is what is adhered to the concrete. We have an article here on how to apply a new coating over an old one.
I have repaired one major spot with 1. Redoing a reetch then more epoxy shield. 2. I applied the epoxy crack filler to the surface. So far nothing worked. Finally I purchased the new crack filler, seems to be a a new formula. There are no signs of delamination. I well wait until warmer weather to re coat. I have also noticed that the old clear coat turns yellow in sunlight.
That’s correct, Fritz. Some coatings can yellow from exposure to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight. This article explains why.
I’m looking to utilize Rocksolid, with the color chips to my garage floor. I have concerns with the slick floors when wet. I have looked at the no skid additive. How easy is it to utilize? Are there any other options? I do not want to make my floor too slip resistant, that it is difficult to clean. Can you please give me your thoughts.
Hi Wes. RockSolid usually includes their anti-slip additive with the clear coat kits. It’s not hard to apply. Just mix the additive in according to their instructions, pour the product out onto the floor and then begin rolling. If you pour the clear coat out in sections, make sure to gently remix the remaining in the bucket before each pour or the additive will settle to the bottom. It will not make cleaning more difficult and you can still walk the floor in bare feet. However, the small granules will slightly tone down the gloss.
Hi.
I have just ground all the paint off my garage floor and still need to do the edges of the garage. My surface is smooth to the touch, with some very small spots here and there where the paint just would not grind off. I think it is good enough, hopefully.
I want to use the RockSolid Rustoleum product on my garage floor. I have read several reviews of this product has a tendency to absorb a lot into the concrete. While I know the surface is smooth, I am concerned about it soaking in too much. Is there a primer that I can use with the RockSolid product?
Also, I have been reading about putting on a clear coat layer. My concern is it turning yellow. I work in my garage, my door is open a lot of the time. It faces southwest, so my garage gets, will get afternoon sun in north Florida. Is the RockSolid product UV stable and is there a clear coating I can use that is also UV stable?
Hi Mike. One way to check if the floor is prepped properly is to place a few drops of water in various areas. If the concrete immediately turns darker and absorbs the water fairly quick, then you are good to go. There is not a primer you can apply for RockSolid. Primers for coatings are typically epoxy and used for commercial quality coatings. They run about the same price and sometimes more than RockSolid. Beware – latex paint concrete bonding primers are not compatible with coatings. They are for latex paint and 1-part epoxy acrylic latex paint and do not have the same bonding strength either. RockSolid acts as its own primer. If the first coat has patches of less gloss and color, it’s because the dry film thickness is too thin and will require a second coat. This is a typical problem of RockSolid with well prepped floors because it’s a thin coating that penetrates and adheres well.
RockSolid is not U.V. stable. This means that if it’s exposed to direct U.V. light for a period of time it will amber (yellow tint) after a while. This goes for clear or colored. If you are considering a clear coat as well as a possible second color coat, then we would suggest considering a different product that will meet your needs. I would recommend that you read this article about single-part polyurea. It’s twice as thick as RockSolid, it’s U.V. stable, it’s just as easy to apply, and it will last at least twice as long.
We applied a coat to our garage floor and the entire middle section is a different color. It looks like a stripe but the back section that was used from the same mix is the correct color. Any idea on what we did that would cause this to happen?
Hello Gretch. If I understand you correctly, the same mixed batch of RockSolid is a different color tone on one section of your garage floor. This is generally an indication that the concrete surface profile for that section of concrete is more porous or rough. Because RockSolid is a thin coating, when a more porous surface is encountered is will absorb more of the coating and create a thinner dry film thickness than the surrounding coating. When the coating is too thin, it will lose color tone and gloss. The only way to fix the issue would be to apply a second coat to the entire floor (not the one section). The section that is off in color will not absorb any of the second coating and should look the same as the rest of the floor.
Hi,
I applied RockSolid metallic floor kit. The look and feel were very stunning and very happy with it . However, the floor seems to be slippery when when water pools are formed on the floor. This is happening specifically in rainy days.
Can I apply clear coat on top of metallic floor paint with anti skid? Will it reduce the glossy finish of metallic paint?
Hi Siva. Yes, you can apply the RockSolid clear coat. It typically comes with the optional anti-slip additive in the box. The metallic coating is actually more glossy than the clear coat. In addition, the anti-slip additive will reduce the gloss slightly as well. Since you are past the recoat window, it will require that you degloss the current surface by sanding with 120 grit sandpaper in order to create mechanical adhesion for the clear coat. We have an article here on how to do that. Once you apply the clear with the anti-slip additive, the color and max gloss that you can get with that combination will come right back.
Hi,
Thanks for your quick reply. I have noticed on metallic epoxy pack that, we can optionally add anti-skid additive. I have seen on the anti-skid additive supplied with clear coat pack that, it can’t be applied to metallic epoxies. Is there a separate anti skid additive for metallic epoxy in rustoleum? Can you clarify?
Hi Siva. As far as we know, Rust-Oleum only makes one type of anti-slip additive for all of their DIY residential epoxy and polycuramine (includes metallics) coating kits. When using the anti-slip additive, it always goes in the final coat. If applying the metallic coating without a clear coat, then the anti-slip will go in the final coat. If you are applying a metallic coating with a clear top coat, then the anti-slip would go in the final clear coat only. We would suggest contacting Rust-Oleum Customer Support for further clarification if you are reading something different.
Hello, I applied RS to my floor after etching and doing a good prep that they recommended. I ended up with what Rustoleum is calling “crazing”. Its lines that look like cracks but not, and looks horrible. They refunded me and told me to sand it off and redo it but it sucks.
Thoughts?
Hi John. RockSolid occasionally has issues like this. Yes, deglossing the surface via sanding to create a mechanical profile for the new coating to adhere properly is required. 120 grit will do it. A floor maintainer with a couple of 100 grit sanding screens will go quicker. Fortunately, customer service always seems to step up and take care of people, however, it doesn’t reimburse you for your time.
I am looking to do my shop floor which has been sealed. what steps do you recommend to prep the floor. Is chemical removal ok and if so what would you recommend. Or do I have to grind it off for best bonding.
Thanks
Hi Joe. Chemical strippers won’t work to remove a sealer on bare concrete. What you need to do is grind the concrete surface in order to open up the concrete pores and remove the sealer. This will provide the proper surface profile for a coating as well. Keep in mind that if you intend to use RockSolid that you will be required to apply two color coats. RockSolid is a very thin coating and the first coat will act like a primer and will not have good color and much less coverage rate due to being absorbed well by the concrete surface (good thing). The second coat will not get absorbed and you will get good color and more accurate coverage rates.
question, can i apply this product over a painted floor? Not sure time of paint for it was already painted, concrete paint, maybe latex.
Hello Daryl. Yes, you can apply it over a painted floor. It will require the proper prep to do so. Rust-Oleum also makes a primer that can be used over painted floors. However, an important factor to consider is that the coating is only as good as what it is adhered to. Acrylic latex is the worst for hot tire pickup and peeling. RockSolid on top will not prevent that. If you want the benefit of strong adhesion that true garage floor coatings are known for, then it needs to be applied direct to bare concrete.
Do you know of anyone using coating in a shipping container? Mostly wood floor with some steel. I spoke with Rustoleum tech support and they said to send, which I’ve done, but the wood seems to have some kind of preservative. Do you know if it will fill small cracks, divots, etc.? I will contact rustoleum again, but am looking for unbiased opinion. Thanks
Hello Brian. No, we don’t know of anyone doing that. Coatings can generally be applied to wood if it’s clean and sanded with 60 grit first. However, if there is a wood preservative or some other oil in the wood, it may inhibit the adhesion of the coating. We would recommend testing a small section first. Just as an FYI, a typical coating is not going to smooth out the surface and fill cracks and divots. Only an industrial polyurethane sand slurry can do that. They are expensive and require professional installation.
Hello, are any of the Rustoleum products better at reducing or eliminating UV yellowing of the top coat? I had coated my garage floor twice over the past 8 years using the Epoxy Shield product with the clear coat and after about 2 years the 1/3 of the garage closest to the garage door has yellowed. Is there anything I can do as it needs to be redone again? Thanks.
Hi Danny. No, none of the DIY store bought Rust-Oleum products are going to be U.V. stable. In addition, if you did apply a U.V. stable clear coat, the colored base coat will still eventually amber is exposed to the sun. This article here explains more and gives you options to consider.
Thank you
Hi Shea! I’ve been prepping my floor to get ready for Rustoleum RockSolid. The concrete slab is about 20 years old and has some oil stains that seem to have been there for years. I’ve applied degreaser several times and the concrete is still discolored in the oil stain areas though not too bad anymore. My question is will rocksolid adhere to surfaces that are still discolored from oil even though they have been degreased/etched or is it still going to delaminate?
Hi David. It’s not uncommon for concrete to remain discolored from where the oil was. Test those areas with water drops. If the concrete immediately turns darker and absorbs the water, then it will absorb the coating and allow it to adhere. If the water just sits there or takes a while to be absorbed, then you will have more cleaning to do. We have an article here about removing oil stains if they need more work.
On a new garage floor (couple months old), do you recommend grinding for long-term adhesion of either RockSolid or EpoxyShield? Or, is etching better for either RockSoliid or EpoxyShield in a new floor? What are the pros and cons of these two products with a new garage floor? Thank you.
Hi D.A. Both RockSolid and EpoxyShield are thin, residential quality coatings. They do better with an etch than with grinding – RockSolid in particular. If you read all the comments and our update in the article you will understand why. Though grinding is the preferred method for most coatings, thin coatings like these become too thin with one coat when it gets absorbed into the concrete. It essentially becomes a primer coat. It makes for good adhesion, but the resulting look is patchy with areas of poor color tone and gloss due to the coating being too thin in those areas. A second color coat is required to increase coating thickness and ensure good color and gloss. If you were planning on two color coats, then grinding can be done.
Hi Shea,
I applied Rocksolid Polycuramine in my garage approx 3 years ago and it is tough as nails! It did take us several days to clean, degrease and etch the garage floors and we purchased 3 kits (big garage) and applied 2 coats. No clear coat and still pretty glossy until today!
Question? We just removed some old cabinets in the back of the garage and the floor there is still bare concrete. We are going to have to grind the concrete there vs etching and when applying Rocksolid can we coat over (over lap) to the existing Rocksolid coating on the floor next to the bare area? Or do we have to overlap our concrete grinding a little and cut into the exsisting Rock Solid coating?
Thanks,
CH
Hi CH. Yes, you can overlap, but it will require roughing up the current coating were it will overlap. If not done, the new coating can peel. You can do this via sanding with 120 grit sandpaper or lightly grinding (if you can without removing it). Just keep in mind coatings do not blend well like a paint on a wall. It will be very obvious where the new overlaps the old.
Can I use Rustoleum Rocksolid on a vertical surface?
I just finished laying Rustoleum Rocksolid on my garage floor (1,000 sq ft required 9 burst pouches for 2 coats). I have 1 pouch remaining. There is a short concrete foundation wall about 12″ high around the edge of the garage floor. It’s concrete surface is rough so I don’t think I would need to etch it. I would tackle the job with a 3″ paint brush and do 1 coat. My question is, will the product successfully cling to the wall? Or will its self-leveling properties cause it to run down the wall and pool on the floor?
Hi Jon. Yes, you can use it on stem walls as long as it is not applied too thick. No prep is required other than making sure they are clean. Keep in mind that the coverage rate will be reduced by close to half due to the surface porosity and irregularities. It may require two coats.
Thanks! Will the paint chips stick if I throw them on the stem walls? or am I better off not bothering with the chips
They will stick, but it’s tricky. It requires throwing the chips into the coating since gravity is not working in your favor. You need to use very small pinches of chips thrown at a distance or you will get concentrated clumps that don’t look good.
Hello, I am thinking of using this product on a floor in my house. With epoxy, too thick of a layer can cause a cloudy result, inconsistent final surface appearance, or even affect the final cure leaving it soft or tacky. How thick can I apply rocksolid? The room is about 150 square feet, and the floor would be completely sealed beforehand. In theory, this would create a finish layer around 3 times thicker than “normal.” Also, how smooth can the under layer be? Will it adhere properly to a smooth, though not glossy, surface?
Hi Michelle. I first want to clear up some incorrect assumptions about epoxy. For indoors, 100% solids epoxy is commonly used. It is VOC free and applied very thick to achieve a lustrous and glossy finish. As always, an epoxy primer is first applied in order to prevent bubbles and other cosmetic issues from off gassing of the concrete. 100% solids epoxy is well known for being used to create the increasingly popular designer metallic coatings for indoor spaces. These achieve an average thickness of 12-18 mils per coat. The relatively inexpensive water-based garage floor epoxy is what can’t be applied very thick (nor is it very glossy).
RockSolid achieves a glossy finish and can be applied at a coverage rate as low as 100 square feet per mixed pouch. This rate will obtain a dry film thickness of approximately 5-6 mils per coat. If applied much thicker than that, you may encounter problems such as bubbles from solvent outgassing or other cosmetic issues. Like most coatings, RockSolid cannot be applied to sealed concrete. The surface has to be properly profiled via etching or grinding in order for it to penetrate into the sub surface to achieve a mechanical bond. If applied to sealed and/or very smooth concrete, it will just peel in a matter of time. This article here explains why.
I am interested in using this product on a new pressure treated plywood floor in a dog kennel. Do you think it will work?
Hello Craig. RockSolid is intended and warrantied for concrete floors only. However, it will adhere to wood just fine in most cases as long as you prep the surface first by sanding with 60 grit sandpaper. You most likely will need two coats to obtain the proper thickness and color tone since the wood in the first coat will absorb more than concrete does.
I am going to be putting RockSolid Metallic flooring on my garage floor. I would describe the floor texture as being very similar to a concrete sidewalk that has smooth edges and a rough center portion to prevent it from being slippery. My floor resembles the center rough part of the concrete sidewalk. Could I use this product on the floor without grinding it smooth? I guess what I’m asking is, when it dries would the product mirror the rough surface of the garage or would it dry smooth. I intend to put a clear coat on top of the product.
Hi Rick. RockSolid is not like a 100% solids metallic epoxy coating that can fill in and level out any small irregularities. When it cures, it still releases a small amount of carrier agents and solvent that causes the coating to slightly shrink in thickness. When this happens, any irregularities in the concrete are going to be exposed to some degree and will not provide a glass like surface.
I’m doing my basement floor but I can’t do it all at once maybe in three parts because of all the stuff we have down there, I’m grinding my floor so what do you think would work best Rock Solid or a Polyurea that would match the best from one section to the other ?
Hello Tom. Unless you have natural borders within the concrete such as contraction joints, you can’t do a floor in sections and have it look like it was done in one shot. The reason is that coatings do not blend together well like the same paint on a wall does. The overlap marks are painfully obvious as well as taped lines. It doesn’t matter the type of product used. Also, most polyureas are solvent-based and stink when first applied. The odor dissipates fairly fast in a garage where there is good ventilation, but it will stink up a house for days and maybe weeks if used in a basement. RockSolid is a low VOC product and would be a better choice in that regard.