A garage floor sealer sounds simple enough to protect and seal the concrete in your garage or workshop. But what does a sealer do for the concrete and which type should you use? Which sealer is best for your requirements and budget? Options include densifiers, siliconates, oil-repelling sealers, salt-repelling sealers, epoxy, polyurea, acrylics, and more. As you can see, it can become a bit overwhelming.
Don’t fret, it’s not as confusing as it may seem at first. Our goal is to explain the differences in sealers for a garage floor or workshop so that it’s much easier to understand. We will discuss how they work, how they are applied, and the benefits of each. This should help you determine what sealer will be best for your needs.
We include economical sealers that protect the bare concrete for a nice clean look, sealers for working garages and workshop floors, as well as decorative sealers and coatings. That’s right, garage floor coatings are sealers as well.
Penetrating Sealers VS Topical Sealers – What’s the Difference?
There are two distinct categories of garage floor sealers that determine performance, looks, and application requirements. They are penetrating sealers and topical sealers.
Though both types seal the concrete, they look and perform much differently from one another. With so many garage flooring options available, it’s important to get a basic understanding of each.
Penetrating Sealers
Penetrating sealers work by penetrating into the concrete upon application. They react with the minerals in the concrete to form a hard, gel-like molecular barrier in the subsurface. Otherwise known as non-film-forming sealers, they are breathable and do not form a coating on the concrete surface.
As a result, penetrating sealers do not change the look of bare concrete. And because they are non-film forming, they cannot be scratched if you drag a sharp object across the concrete surface. In addition, they will retain the same wet slip resistance of the current concrete surface.
Furthermore, penetrating sealers typically are the most economical sealing solution for a garage floor or workshop and one of the easiest of all garage flooring options to apply.
An important fact about penetrating sealers is that they are not waterproof as some people assume. Nor are they stainproof. This is due to the non-film-forming properties of the sealer.
Though they do a good job of repelling water and resisting automotive fluids, all liquids will eventually penetrate the concrete surface if allowed to sit long enough. How long they sit before penetration is determined by the type of sealer and the porosity of the concrete.
Lastly, liquids such as oil, automotive fluids, and other contaminants can stain if allowed to sit. How much they stain and how easily an oil stain cleans up are determined by the type of penetrating sealer applied and how long the oil or other contaminant was allowed to sit.
When it comes to stain resistance, the goal of a penetrating sealer is to provide enough time for spills and leaks to be cleaned up first before they have a chance to stain. This includes some of the newer oil-repelling sealers the industry has introduced to provide better stain resistance.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers / Coatings
Topical sealers adhere to the concrete surface with only slight penetration. Also known as film-forming sealers, they are more widely known as floor coatings or garage floor coatings. They form a protective layer that is typically non-breathable and can be impermeable depending on the coating used.
Many are 2-part resinous coatings that require mixing before application, though there are exceptions. They chemically cure and create a hard coating that is extremely durable. The thickness, abrasive properties, and chemical resistance of these coating sealers can vary depending on the type and quality of the coating that is used.
Paint and 1-part epoxy paint are not sealers or coatings. Don’t make this mistake! We discuss why here.
Most coatings are also considered decorative. Clear coatings will enhance the look of the garage floor surface. They tend to darken bare concrete, add character, and provide a matte to a glossy finish.
In addition, clear coating sealers are used to protect and highlight the colors of stained or dyed concrete. They make the colors pop with vibrancy and add shine.
Colored coatings completely change the look of the garage floor. Epoxy and polyurea garage floor coatings are great examples. You can opt for a solid color or add multi-colored acrylic flakes with a clear coat to create your own unique color palette.
Unlike penetrating sealers, topical sealers and coatings prevent the bare concrete from being stained by oils, automotive fluids, and chemicals. This is because the coating acts as a sacrificial barrier.
Furthermore, one large advantage of topical sealers over penetrating sealers is that the surface is very easy to keep clean.
Higher-performing coatings can also be extremely stain resistant. Oil, chemicals, salty road brines, and other fluids can sit for much longer periods. All that is required in most cases is wiping up the mess with a rag. A shot of Windex can remove any leftover film residue.
Lastly, many topical sealers and coatings will prevent the penetration of water and liquids into the concrete. This doesn’t necessarily make the entire garage floor waterproof. Exposed cracks and concrete joints can still allow water to seep into the concrete.
Now that we better understand the difference between penetrating garage floor sealers and topical garage floor sealers, let us discuss the various types available and what we can recommend.
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Recommended Penetrating Sealers for Garage Floors
There is a wide range of penetrating sealers for concrete to choose from. Therefore, it can easily become overwhelming if you don’t know what to look for.
There are silane concrete sealers, silicone sealers, siloxane sealers, siliconate sealers, densifiers, oleophobic concrete sealers, and more. Many are hybrids of each. Some are water-based, while others or solvent-based. Many do not work very well for a garage floor.
As a result, we will only discuss those penetrating sealers that we recommend and know to work best for a garage or workshop floor. In addition, we will discuss concrete prep that may be required and sealer application.
Siliconate Sealers
Siliconate sealers are a great choice for homeowners who just want good general protection of their bare concrete at a minimal cost with ease of application. Often considered the “all-purpose” sealer for garage floors and workshops, they are a great value as well.
Compared to other penetrating sealers, their medium-sized molecular structure does not allow the sealant to penetrate too deep. This provides for better coverage rates and more importantly, better protection of the concrete surface.
As a result, they provide good water repellency including repellency against moisture, road salts, and dirt. Siliconate sealers also resist efflorescence and provide good protection against freeze-thaw, which is the leading cause of spalling of concrete.
Learn more: Why Penetrating Siliconate Sealers May Be All You Need
One thing to keep in mind is that siliconate sealers do not repel oil. Though they will buy you some time for cleanup by slowing down penetration into the concrete, a stain can occur if oil is allowed to sit for long. However, the resulting stain will not be nearly as bad as an oil stain on untreated concrete.
As with the majority of penetrating sealers, the application is very easy. For most concrete surfaces, the only preparation required is to clean and degrease. Once the concrete has thoroughly dried, one coat of the sealer is applied using a low-pressure pump-up garden sprayer with a conical spray nozzle.
Densifiers and Densifier Sealers
Densifiers are a type of silicate sealer. They had been used primarily in the process of polishing concrete and for adding strength to newly poured concrete floors. However, with the introduction of easier-to-apply lithium silicate densifiers, they have become more popular for garage, workshop, and warehouse floors.
Densifiers work by reacting with minerals in the concrete to form a very hard substance called calcium silicate hydrate or CSH. The CSH fills many of the empty voids and pores of the concrete at and near the surface. This increases the density, strength, and hardness of the concrete in these areas.
Check the Current Price on our Top Recommended Densifier
In addition, the filling of these voids with CSH reduces concrete dusting. Furthermore, it slows down moisture intrusion from below the slab to help prevent efflorescence and moisture vapor. However, silicate densifiers do not repel water or other liquids.
As a result of their increasing popularity, manufacturers began adding siliconate to densifiers to provide water and liquid-repelling characteristics. This new type of densifier with siliconate sealer added provides the characteristics of a densifier plus, the same protections as a siliconate sealer as well.
Learn more: Why Densifiers are the New Garage Floor Sealer
As with siliconate sealers, densifiers do not repel oil. However, testing has shown that densifiers with siliconate sealer added do a better job at resisting oil stains than a stand-alone siliconate sealer only.
The application is similar to that of a siliconate sealer. However, more importance is emphasized on not letting the densifier puddle. If it does, it’s important to use a paint roller to roll out the excess or use a broom to work it into the concrete.
If allowed to dry with excess sealer on the surface, a white powder will form and require heavy scrubbing to remove.
Oil Repelling Penetrating Sealers
Oil-repelling penetrating sealers are fairly new to the market. They’ve come about due to the constant demand for a better-performing sealer against staining from oil and other automotive fluids for garage floors and workshops.
A unique ingredient of these sealers is the use of fluorocarbons to create an oleophobic barrier. Oleophobic refers to the physical property of a molecule to seemingly repel oil.
Oil will lay flat or even run on a concrete surface treated with typical penetrating sealers. This characteristic does not resist the penetration of oil nearly as well as water which typically beads from being repelled.
However, oil tends to bead somewhat on a concrete surface treated with an oleophobic sealer. This repelling action allows the oil to sit for a longer period with less chance of penetration into the concrete.
This repelling action allows for an easier cleanup of oils and other automotive fluids and less chance of an oil stain. However, this does not mean the concrete can’t be stained. As with all penetrating sealers, oil and other offending contaminants will stain eventually if allowed to sit long enough.
What oil-repelling penetrating concrete sealers do is allow more time for the oil to sit before cleanup. In addition, it can also make the removal of any offending stains easier.
The raw materials used for these sealers are more expensive. As a result, they cost more than typical penetrating sealers. In addition, one popular oil-repelling sealer that is known to work well also requires the application of a densifier first.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Single Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Oil-repelling sealers in most cases are the better choice to use on garage floors and workshops. However, the importance of these characteristics versus cost is something to consider if you are on a budget.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Dual Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Application of these sealers is a bit more involved but still fairly easy. The concrete must be degreased, clean, and dry. Depending on the sealer used, the application can require a wet flood coat using a pump-up sprayer or application via a lambswool pad or microfiber pad.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers and Coatings
The number of options for garage floor coatings and topical sealers is large. There are acrylic coatings and sealers, epoxy, polyurethane, polyurea, and polyaspartics. In addition, there are single-part moisture-cured coatings and 2-part coatings. And most come in a choice of clear or colored.
Furthermore, the application process, performance characteristics, and durability vary greatly. This includes what chemicals, stains, and abuse they can withstand.
As a result, this is an area where research before a purchase is paramount. Marketing campaigns by large corporations such as Rust-Oleum, Behr, QuikRete, H&C, and others have only served to confuse the consumer. This has led to many unhappy or misinformed purchases.
In addition, do not rely on information from home improvement centers. They are not knowledgeable about concrete coatings and they do not carry quality products in their inventory.
The following topical sealer options below are listed from low to high in approximate cost.
Acrylic concrete sealers
Acrylic concrete sealers form a thin protective layer on bare concrete. Most are clear, but some can be tinted for color. Expect 1 – 1.5 mils dry film thickness per coat on average.
They will enhance the look of the garage floor and make the concrete look slightly darker. The floor will attain a somewhat wet and glossy look or you can opt for a less flashy matte finish. Glossy finishes tend to be more durable.
In terms of performance, acrylic sealers will protect the garage floor from water and chloride intrusion. In addition, they provide light to moderate protection against oil, vehicle fluids, hot tire pick-up, and road salts.
Most acrylic sealers are also U.V. stable. This means that they will not turn a yellow tint if exposed to direct sunlight.
Water-based acrylic sealers are the least durable of all concrete coating options and the easiest to scratch. Solvent-based acrylics increase durability, scratch resistance, and chemical resistance from automotive fluids.
For a more durable alternative, we recommend the performance of MMA acrylic sealers. These have longer endurance properties than standard acrylic sealers and can withstand harsher chemicals.
Acrylic sealers perform best with light to moderate traffic. Reapplication may be required once every 18 to 36 months depending on the sealer used.
One DIY advantage of acrylic sealers is that they are fairly easy to apply. The concrete needs to be degreased, cleaned, and dry. Etching of the concrete is typically not required unless the surface is extremely smooth.
You can use either a low-pressure pump-up sprayer or apply it with a paintbrush and rollers out of a tray. The key to a successful application is to apply the coating thin or problems will develop. Typically, two coats are applied for the best protection.
Modified Acrylic Polyurethane Sealers
If you like the look of a clear sealer on bare concrete, then one of the best-performing values is a modified acrylic polyurethane.
This is a somewhat new sealer for garage floors that we feel is going to explode in popularity once the word gets out. It combines high performance and ease of application at a budget price.
Technically, they are a thin, 2-part water-based, high-performance, acrylic-modified, aliphatic polyurethane coating and sealer. Aliphatic means that they are U.V. stable and will not amber. In addition, they are Eco-friendly, and no etching of the concrete is required.
Acrylic-modified polyurethane sealers provide better abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, and stain resistance than most epoxy. They are a true workhorse sealer for garage floors and workshops.
A minimum of two thin coats is required. This will result in a dry film thickness of just under 2 mils. Three coats are recommended for commercial applications. They are one of the few topical sealers that will adhere well to machine-troweled concrete.
Learn More: Our Top Recommended Acrylic Modified Polyurethane
These are best used on smooth concrete with few repairs. Due to their thin nature, they are not recommended on rough garage floor finishes or concrete with numerous repairs. They are not thick enough to provide self-leveling properties such as epoxy or polyurea.
Furthermore, they will only adhere to bare, unsealed concrete and are not compatible as a clear sealer over epoxy or other coatings.
Application requires that the concrete be clean and dry. No etching of the concrete is required. The sealer is best applied using a low-pressure pump-up sprayer with a conical spray nozzle in conjunction with a microfiber application pad or 1/4″ low nap roller.
Epoxy Concrete Sealers
Undisputedly, the most popular sealer is garage floor epoxy. Epoxy is a 2-part thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating. It chemically cures to create polymer structures that are closely cross-linked. This is what gives epoxy its superior strength and durability.
Epoxy is available as a clear coat to bare concrete but is more commonly applied in solid colors. Finishes range from satin for low-budget formulas to a high gloss for commercial-quality epoxy.
The most durable applications are epoxy systems that include a minimum of a color coat, optional decorative color flakes, and a clear coat. Professionally installed garage floor coatings consist of such systems.
Learn more: How to Choose the Best Garage Floor Epoxy System
In addition, epoxy coating sealers are much thicker than acrylics. They can be applied thicker than any other coating available. Depending on the solids content, one coat of epoxy can be applied at 2.5 – 12 mils dry film thickness and higher.
Epoxy sealers can withstand heavy traffic and are abrasion resistant. Furthermore, most are non-breathable and will prevent water and chemical intrusion at the surface. They are resistant to most chemicals, oil, vehicle fluids, road salts, and hot tire pickup.
One disadvantage is that epoxy is not U.V. resistant. If exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight, it can turn a yellow tint (amber) over a period of time.
Single-coat DIY garage floor epoxy kits purchased from local home improvement centers are the least durable epoxy coatings. We explain more in detail here.
Epoxy sealer application is more involved and time-consuming compared to penetrating sealers. However, DIY application is very common. Application is done using paintbrushes and paint rollers.
Proper concrete preparation is essential or the coating will not adhere properly. Etching the concrete is required at the minimum. Grinding the concrete may be preferred for some applications, but it is not mandatory.
In addition, epoxy application is time sensitive. Once the two parts are mixed, you typically have 30 – 40 minutes to get the epoxy applied before it hardens up. Low-quality epoxy allows for more application time. This time limit is dependent on the solids content. The higher the solids content (thicker, higher-performing coatings), the less time you have to apply it.
Moisture Cured Direct to Concrete Polyurethane Sealers
Polyurethane is a high-performance coating with increased benefits over epoxy. Depending on the quality, it is typically more abrasion and scratch resistant than epoxy. It wears longer and is more chemical and stain resistant. And unlike epoxy, most polyurethanes are U.V. stable and will not amber.
Traditional polyurethane coatings are available in 2-part formulas or single-part moisture-cured formulas. Like acrylics, they are applied thinly with an average dry film thickness of 2-2.5 mils.
However, one issue with traditional polyurethane concrete coating sealers is that they do not bond well directly to concrete. Instead, they are used as a U.V. stable colored coating over epoxy or more commonly, as a clear coat over epoxy.
Fortunately, this bonding issue has recently changed with the introduction of newer moisture-cured polyurethanes designed specifically to bond directly to concrete. Moisture-cured coatings are single-part and do not require mixing in a second part to act as a catalyst to start the chemical curing process.
Instead, it uses moisture in the air as the catalyst. The coating is not activated until it is applied to the concrete and exposed to the moisture in the air. As a result, you have a much longer working time to apply the coating as compared to epoxy. This is a nice benefit for DIY installations.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Moisture-Cured Polyurethane
Because these coatings are thin, they typically require a minimum of two color coats. One clear coat is sufficient if applied to bare concrete. However, two are recommended for more durability if it’s a busy working garage or workshop.
This type of coating sealer will not do a good job of hiding irregularities in the concrete due to its thin nature. High solids epoxy is better for that.
Application of direct to concrete moisture-cured polyurethane sealers is varied. The concrete must be clean, degreased, and completely dry throughout.
In addition, most require that the surface be acid etched. However, polyurethanes such as DuraGrade Concrete by Rust Bullet do not require etching in many cases. This can be a huge benefit to DIY installers that do not want to deal with additional concrete prep. Like most coatings, it is applied with paint rollers and brushes.
Polyurea and Polyaspartic floor sealers
Last on the list are the newer polyurea and polyaspartic floor coating sealers. These are a sub-group of polyurethane and have a similar finish to epoxy and polyurethane coated floors.
They are U.V. stable and can provide better protection than polyurethane. They also provide the best resistance against brown tire prints in the coating.
Unlike epoxy and polyurethane, many of these coatings can be applied in extreme temperatures from below freezing to over 100 degrees, depending on the formula.
What makes these coatings popular is their extremely fast return-to-service times. They can be installed on your garage floor in one day and driven on the next. Most polyurea and polyaspartic coatings need to be applied by a professional due to their very short working time. Twenty minutes or less is typical.
There are newer polyurea coating sealers that have been introduced that are much more DIY-friendly. They can provide up to two hours to get the coating applied depending on the polyurea or polyaspartic formula.
Learn more: Why the best DIY Garage Flooring Kits are Single-Part Polyurea
These long application times reduce the common anxiety of getting the coating applied in enough time. As a result, they can be an excellent choice for a DIY application.
We highly recommend the newer single-part polyurea coatings. These are commercial-quality, moisture-cured coatings that will last 10-15 years or more on a garage floor.
Final thoughts
We have a few considerations for you to keep in mind when deciding which garage floor sealer is best for you.
If you have issues with moisture coming up through the concrete, a penetrating garage floor sealer is generally the better choice. Because they are breathable, they will not be affected by moisture vapor. As we discussed, they may also serve to block or reduce moisture coming up from underneath the concrete slab.
Acrylic sealers are breathable and will tolerate low levels of moisture. Resinous topical sealers and coatings such as epoxy, polyurethanes, and polyurea will not allow for moisture transfer. They can peel and even pull small chunks of concrete up with it if moisture gets trapped under the coating. Moisture testing should be conducted if you suspect it may be an issue before applying a topical sealer.
If you use your garage or workshop for metal fabrication and welding, a penetrating sealer may be the better option. Coatings will get damaged if sharp metal objects are dragged across the surface. They will also incur burn marks from welding slag or heavy metal grinding.
Lastly, take the time to evaluate your requirements. Be realistic in terms of what you want a concrete sealer to do for your garage floor or workshop. No penetrating or film-forming topical sealer and coating are perfect. Compromises may need to be made, particularly if budget is a concern.
Scott says
The concrete floors in my house were poured yesterday. I was wanting to seal/protection them and was wondering what was the best way to go about doing it….. sealer or epoxy/acrylic.
Shea says
Hello Scott, it depends on what type of flooring you are going to be using on your concrete. Since most homes install carpet, tile, or wood flooring, sealing the concrete is not necessary. In fact, it could be a hindrance for carpet and wood adhesive or tile thinset. The garage is another matter however since water and the weather can be tracked onto the surface. You have a whole range of choices there from film forming sealers such as acrylics or epoxy to penetrating sealers and densifiers.
Dustin says
What is the best product to put on a car port that “sweats” when humid? It is very slippery and dangerous. Thank you
Shea says
Hello Dustin and thanks for stopping by. As long as your problem is due to condensation (sweating) we suggest that you seal your carport with an acrylic concrete sealer augmented with an anti-slip agent. The anti-slip granules will provide for sure footing when your carport sweats. There are many good products to choose from. We suggest you contact one of our sponsors, Legacy Industrial, and advise them of your situation. They have good quality products and can make a recommendation for you.
Josh says
I moved into a 15 year old home and it has some light stains on the garage floor. I’m having it pressure washed in the morning, and thought this May be a good opportunity to do some kind of sealant. The main purpose is just to keep stains from forming. Which would be the most cost effective and practical sealant in your opinion? I will likely be applying it myself, and will probably have to purchase any tools I use. Thanks in advance!
Shea says
Hello Josh. The easiest sealant to apply that will leave your floor looking natural would be a penetrating sealer. They are great at resisting stains so long as you wipe oils and grease up and don’t let it sit. Next would be an acrylic sealer. These sealers are film forming and come in matte and glossy finishes. Our favorite is an acrylic/epoxy blend from Legacy Industrial. Both types of sealers can be applied with either a garden pump sprayer or with a paint roller.
Josh says
Thanks for the reply! I had the garage pressure washed, and there are actually several pretty dark stains still left on the floor. I think I will need to go with some sort of colored cover instead…unfortunately. Any thoughts on what to use? I’ve seen some apoxies that people will apply, which look great, but they seem to peel up after a while…and I really don’t want to have to get all that off and do it again every couple years.
Shea says
Your welcome Josh. If the stains repel water and cause it to bead up, you will first have to get them cleaned up better if you want to apply a coating. Try reading this about cleaning oil stains. The key to epoxy floors that don’t peel is proper floor prep. This article helps to explain. As far as what kind of epoxy to use, I suggest you start with reading this post about the different epoxy systems for a garage.
All those article have related articles to learn about epoxy coatings for a garage. The biggest mistake people make with epoxy is not prepping the floor properly. It’s the most labor intensive step for a successful epoxy coating.
Josh says
Thanks! I’ll check out those articles.
Tammy says
Hi, was hoping you could give me some advice. We recently built a new home and went with concrete floors…we used an acrylic stain to do a beautiful patten and then were advised to cure and seal it, so we did. We find the solvent based cure and seal is not protecting the floor from abrasions and I’m wondering if we can do a polyurethane coating over the cure and seal. Thanks in advance for any info you can provide!
Shea says
Hello Tammy. You have a couple of issues you should be aware of based on your situation. First, acrylic stains are a translucent colored film forming sealer. Technically the color comes from tinting of the acrylic film, not from staining the concrete like an acid stain does, as an example. As a result, most of the color is in the thin film that seals the concrete. If you took a chemical stripper to remove the acrylic sealer most of the color on the concrete would disappear.
Second, a cure and seal is designed to be applied to newly poured concrete (less than 24 hours old) in order to provide a good cure and to seal it at the same time. It’s not designed to protect acrylic stained concrete, though it can help to cure and seal freshly poured colored concrete. Also, a solvent based cure and seal can emulsify and soften some water based acrylics (if that is what you have). So it’s doubtful that the cure and seal did anything at all other than softening your acrylic stain.
The best protection indoors for an acrylic stain is multiple coats of wax. The wax acts as a sacrificial layer above the acrylic color in order to protect it from scuffs and such. Unfortunately you can’t apply polyurethane over acrylic sealers. You would have to first chemically strip the old acrylic stain to help expose the pores of the concrete and then apply a water based or solvent based dye, or an acid stain. After that you can apply a film forming epoxy or urethane top coat.
Tammy says
Thanks Shea, just to clarify we used a water based acrylic concrete stain by Proline decorative concrete systems then the cure and seal. Don’t know if that makes a difference?
Shea says
Your welcome Tammy. We looked at the brand and it doesn’t make a difference in your case. Unfortunately the info you received about applying a cure and seal over an acrylic stain was not the best.
Ednamae says
Hi. Can a white-ish stain on a brown epoxy floor be fixed? Actually not sure it is epoxy, but it is at least a mil or 2 thick. It is used as the finish floor in the entry, den and kitchen of a house we bought–from bank so no idea what is actually on floor. Does chlorine bleach, perfume, cleaner or any other chemical one usually has in the house take the color out of epoxy? Thanks in advance.
Shea says
Hello Ed. It’s hard to diagnose a stain without seeing it in person. If it is an epoxy coating then you can use fairly strong chemicals if necessary. A white-ish stain as you put it may be some sort of mineral build up. CLR works well for that. We recommend starting with mild cleaners and working up from there, just stay away from solvent based cleaners. While a good epoxy coating will stand up to many solvents, an epoxy paint product or paint itself will not. A green scrubbing pad works well and be sure to rinse thoroughly afterwards.
Susan says
My garage floor is letting moisture through (minor, no puddles) . When all is dry I have a white, fine powder to sweep up.. Can I put on a penetrating sealer and follow this with a polyurethane top coat for some gloss???
Shea says
Hello Susan. Is the moisture coming up through the substrate or is it condensation on the surface? If you are not sure, we recommend conducting a moisture test first to see what you are up against. If it is moisture coming up through the substrate, many times you can apply a densifier or impregnating sealer such as this one that will allow you to use a coating over it. Not all penetrating sealers allow for coatings afterwards. Test the concrete for moisture afterwards before going to the next step. Applying polyurethane requires an acid etch at minimum if not grinding the garage floor. If you don’t require such a tough finish you can always apply a topical sealer such as this one which is available in a glossy finish and is much easier to apply.
Earl Wright says
I have an added challenge to address. Besides the normal garage issues I’d like to protect against, one half of my garage will eventually be a glassblowing studio. Drips of molten glass, upwards of 2,300 degrees F, will happen. Is there a garage floor coating that can stand up to this extreme abuse?
Shea says
2,300 degrees? Wow, that’s some hot stuff Earl. Most people just ask about welding, but glass blowing? That is really awesome. Unfortunately there isn’t a garage floor coating that will stand up to that. That is why the hot zone of glass blowing shop floors are generally bare concrete.
Joe Collins says
What is the top of the line garage floor sealers? Impervious to oil, car tires and traffic!!!
Thank you Joe
Shea says
Joe, epoxy, polyurethane, polyurea, and polyaspartic garage floor coatings are the toughest sealers for garage floors. They are impervious to what you listed plus they are extremely resistant to many caustic chemicals as well.
Randomgrrl says
Hi, I’d just like to know how a sealant could effect the temperature of the garage/concrete floor after it’s been applied? I want to finish my garage and use it for a bedroom and studio, and I like the look of stained and sealed concrete, but am concerned that in the winter it’ll just be too cold. Does sealing concrete protect against the cold temperatures of concrete floors? Thanks!
Shea says
Hello Randomgrrl and thanks for the good question. Unfortunately sealers do not insulate concrete from the cold of winter. They are too thin to have any affect. Carpet, mats, and interlocking floor tiles would be a better choice if you are worried about a cold floor.
Michael says
Do the clear water based epoxies darken the concrete?
Shea says
Yes, the concrete will take on a slightly darker color. Also, if you colored the concrete with acid stains or dyes the epoxy will make the color pop and look much more rich.
Nicholas says
Do clear water based darkens less than solvent borne Epoxies?
Thanks.
Shea says
Hi Nicholas. Your question depends upon what surface it is being applied to. If it’s stained concrete, a solvent based epoxy will darken the colors a little more and make them slightly more vibrant than a water based epoxy. If it’s being applied over a colored base of epoxy then there really isn’t much of a difference other than possible gloss factors depending on the product. They will not darken the colored epoxy. When being applied over bare concrete both tend to darken the concrete about the same. There are ultra-clear water based epoxies available that will not darken colors or concrete much, but they are not very U.V. stable and are best for indoors and not a garage.
catrina says
I have stained the concrete in my basement and started to put on a water based sealer in 3 of the rooms. The one thing with that particular sealer is it does not give my concrete that smooth appearance. I was thinking that maybe I should use a polyurethane? If so, can I put the polyurethane over the current sealer that I already put down on the other 3 floors? Will polyurethane peel easily?
Shea says
Hi Catrina. It sounds like you may have put down a water based acrylic sealer. These are very common to use indoors over stained concrete. They are applied very thin and do not give the same “smooth or glassy appearance” as a thicker 2-part epoxy or polyurethane coating. If this is what you have, then you cannot apply the polyurethane over it. Polyurethane is extremely durable, scratch resistant, and chemical resistant, but it needs to be applied over unsealed, properly prepared concrete or over an epoxy based coating (stain is not a sealer). It will not peel when applied this way.
catrina says
Thank you. Just one more question. I am trying to find a polyurethane sealer for the other rooms, but unable to find one for concrete. What would you recommend? And where can I get it?
Shea says
Contact Legacy Industrial and ask about this product here. It is a single component urethane (polyurethane) that works well indoors and can be applied to bare concrete.
JcIsMe says
We just built a new house and I want to properly seal the garage floor. My main concern is winterizing and eliminating pitting caused by road salt, and I also would prefer this to be a DIY project instead of hiring out. Any recommendations on a good product?
Shea says
Based on your needs, it doesn’t sound like you are looking for decorative sealer such as epoxy. If that is the case, we are a big fan of penetrating siliconate sealers. They are easy to apply and don’t change the look of your concrete. If your floor is hard troweled and doesn’t absorb water well, it may require some sanding before application. There are many good products out there, we have always been happy when using PS101 from Concrete Sealers USA.
JcIsMe says
Thanks for the reply. That sounds like exactly what I need. Can you tell me if that same product is also appropriate for a driveway? How about the basement floor?
Shea says
Your welcome. It depends on the finished surface of the driveway. If it’s troweled smooth then you can use the same product. If it’s a more porous surface or broom finished, they have a PS102 to use instead. It terms of the basement, the PS101 works well, but you may want to give them a call because they have a few different products you can use in the basement depending on your needs.
felisha says
This may or may not be the place ask this question… I just stained the concrete in my house, however I cant seem to find the sealer I want. I am wanting like a glass look/finish. How can I get that? What kind of sealer do I need? Please help
Shea says
Hello Felisha. What you need to look for is a high sheen or high gloss acrylic sealer. These go down thin in 2 or 3 coats and then are waxed to protect the sealer. The other option is a moisture cured 1-part high gloss polyurethane sealer. These last longer than the acrylic and do not require a protective wax coat, but they are more expensive.
Bev says
We had put a concrete sealer on the floor of our shop s couple of years ago. Unfortunately whereever the vehicles havve been dripping snow and salt in the winter the conrete has become rough and bare (not sure if this has to do with the in-floor heating). How could we refinish the entire floor to provide a more durable finish?
Shea says
Hello Bev and thanks for the question. In-floor heating doesn’t cause sealers to break down, but it will create puddles from melting snow and deicing fluids which can wreak havoc on a thin filmed topical coating if it’s left to sit. Since you want something more durable and its a shop floor, we would recommend a multi-coat flooring system of epoxy and polyurethane. If you want a quick return to service of your shop floor then a multi-coat polyurea or polyaspartic coating would be better. Both systems are extremely resistant to road salts as well as other chemicals and are used for flooring in industrial settings everywhere. The top coat of these sealers allow for the use of anti-slip additives as well to help prevent slip fall accidents. You will need to grind or shot blast the concrete to remove the old sealer and prep the concrete for these type of coatings.
Noah says
Hi. Great info! Thanks for running this site.
I have a one car garage that is attached to our condo slab. The building is about 30 years old, and we live in the northeast US. The floor of the garage must have some kind of sealer on it. It beads up in the spring when the air and floor temps are very different. The 6 inch concrete walls of the garage are powdery, but the floor isn’t, so I assume the walls have never been treated. The floor is starting to crack. I have no idea what was previously used to seal the garage.
Any thoughts on what I should use to fix the floor and seal it all up? What do you recommend to people who have no idea what was used in the past?
Shea says
Hello Noah and thanks for the kudos! For fixing cracks, most home improvement centers have good polyurethane, epoxy, or polyurea concrete crack repair products that are applied with a caulking gun. Do not use a latex based product as latex will always shrink and eventually pull away. You can read more about garage floor repair here.
It sounds like you have efflorescence on the short stem walls of your garage floor. This can usually be removed with a mild acid etching and scrub brush and then sealed after that. From your description of the rest of the floor, it sounds like it has a penetrating sealer on it or a cure and seal product was used after the slab was poured. Without knowing the exact product, your only alternative would be to grind the concrete to remove the old sealer if you want to reseal the floor.
Jaswinder says
I have finished my 500 sq feet garage floor with 2 coats of 2 parts epoxy followed by Full Broadcast of decorative chips and one coat of clear epoxy . I had to get 2 gallons of the 2 part clear epoxy to finish the last coat . Now I notice that I have missed some minor spots . Can I use an acrylic based clear sealer ( 28 $ )on these minor spots to finish the job instead of getting another gallon of clear epoxy ( 95$ ). That way I save 70$ .
Shea says
No, unfortunately that will not work for a couple of reasons. The first is that the acrylic sealer is not compatible with the epoxy and is much thinner. It is not designed to coat color flakes. Second, it would stand out from the rest of the floor and wear much quicker. You may want to contact the vendor where you purchased the epoxy and ask if they sell touch up kits. That may be enough to cover the small spots you missed. Keep in mind you only have a 24 hour recoat window. You will need to sand the epoxy surrounding the bare spots that new epoxy coating comes in contact with in order for it to adhere properly.
Kim Chapple says
I just painted my garage floor with a concrete/garage floor paint. I was hoping to then seal it for easy clean up and to avoid paint peel when we do clean it. Unfortunately I cannot find any sealant that does not say “use on clean, bare concrete”. Is there anything I can use on a painted floor to seal & waterproof it? Thanks so much!
Shea says
Hi Kim. Unless you used a 2 part epoxy paint on your garage floor, you cannot seal latex acrylic concrete paint or 1 part epoxy concrete paint. They are inexpensive for a reason and this is one of those reasons. Concrete sealers adhere by attaching to the open pores in concrete. Once you close them up with paint a sealer will not work.
The good news is that painted floors are very easy to clean. Paint peel generally happens from hot tires and caustic chemicals such as gasoline or unattended oil spills. Painted floors will not look pristine for long periods of time but they are easy to touch up.
cem tabak says
Hi, I have a small garage and still not sure what type of sealer i should use, i want a smooth matte finish and I don’t have any exposure to sunlight.
Shea says
It’s hard to make a recommendation on that description alone. How do you plan on using the garage? Light traffic for just parking the car or do you work on projects and cars? Do you want color or clear? Do you have any moisture issues right now? What is your budget like? These are some of the basic questions you need to ask yourself before deciding whats best for your garage floor.
cem tabak says
Light traffic , I want a clear finish, i dont have any moisture and i don’t have a budget 🙂
Shea says
OK, in that case one of your choices can be a clear acrylic sealer. Some are available in a matte finish, as is this one that we did an article on. The other choice would be a penetrating sealer. These are non-film forming unlike an acrylic sealer. They seal the floor without you knowing that they are there.
Phyllis Bustle says
I am removing two coats of paint from my garage floor. Started first with stripping, then scraping, then wiped with paint thinner and steel wool. The exposed concrete looks really spotted, and not oil spots. The concrete is slick also. I don’t want to repaint, but I don’t know what to do when the floor is entirely cleaned. I’ve been told to use an acid wash. Is that the next and final step to complete my job on the stripped floor? Frankly I am amazed at how spotted, light and dark spots the floor looks now!
Shea says
Hello Phyllis. It’s hard to tell you why the floor is spotted without seeing it. It could be previous stains from another owner or residue from the chemical stripper. What is your goal for the floor?
Phyllis Bustle says
I thought once it was stripped of paint I would do an acid wash, hoping it would clean the floor to the original concrete, then I would seal it. Well, after reading more about using acid, it scares me. Now I don’t have a clue. It’s a most interesting floor with all the colors of brown’s and quite smooth. Almost like a marble counter top!
Shea says
You are on the right track Phyllis. You can always use a phosphoric acid if you don’t like the idea of muriatic acid. It’s more expensive but safer to use. There are also acid etch alternatives that you can use that work well also. Once you have it etched, it will be ready for your sealer of choice. With all the character it has, a clear sealer will bring out the highlights.
Derek Ion says
How can I seal my garage floor which was painted by the previous owner without sealing and the paint has flaked. Much of the floor is now bare but there are painted patches, some large, which are not completely sound.
Shea says
Hello Derek. You will need to completely clean the concrete and remove the old paint via chemical strippers or grinding. Once that is done you can seal the garage floor with your product of choice.
Sandy says
So glad to find this great site. Thanks for all the info!
We sealed our concrete garage floor with a sealing product called TK-AS-1 1315 Achro Seal. According to the can, it is a non-yellowing curing & sealing compound. This was purchased from the concrete plant, not a big box store. We had put this same product on the floor many years ago.
The problem – some of the areas where the vehicle tires sit have remained tacky. It has been 5 days since applying the product and it is still tacky / sticky just in the tire area. Not all 4 tire areas are tacky. Where one vehicle sits, 3 of the tire areas are tacky. Where the other vehicle sits, 2 of the tire areas are tacky / sticky to touch.
What could have caused this? We thought we cleaned the floor very well prior to applying the sealer. Only other condition: we had some product left over from the application years ago, and used that up first before using new product. We were told it would still be good to use, as it did not freeze. Our goal is to protect the floor from the winter salt, and keep it from becoming pitted.
Will this dry completely given more time? Or do we have to do something to these tacky areas? The rest of the floor turned out good.
Thanks for your help!
Shea says
Hi Sandy. The product you have used is an acrylic/methyl methacrylate resin which is a good acrylic sealer that cures fairly quickly. It sounds like one of two possibilities may be happening. Since the tacky spots are only in the areas where the tires sit, there may be silicone from tire dressing absorbed into the concrete that wasn’t cleaned effectively and is now reacting with the sealer and not allowing it to cure properly. The second may be plasticizer migration from the tires into the concrete that is causing the same issue. If either is the case, it would require stripping down those areas in order to remove the contaminant. Silicone from tire dressing is hard to remove and may require grinding of the concrete to get rid of it. Once removed, you can re-coat the areas.
Our recommendation is to contact TK Products first and talk to them about your issue before you do anything else.
Sandy says
Thanks for your help and recommendations! TK said to give it more time to cure. The temperature has dropped quite a bit since the application and they said it takes longer to cure in cooler weather.
Then if that doesn’t help, it would require the stripping down those areas, scrubbing, and re-applying, as you suggested.
So far the couple extra days of drying has helped. We will have patience & hope that takes care of it completely. Thank you again!
Shea says
You’re welcome Sandy. Glad we could help.
Jon says
I have a expoy floor with medium broadcast in my garage. Can I use foam interlocking tiles on this surface or will it damage/stick to the floor? Thanks in advance.
Shea says
Hi John. The mats will not damage the epoxy. If a chemical gets underneath the mat and causes the material to break down, it can cause it to stick or transfer color to the epoxy. Other than than that it’s not a problem.
Shaun says
This is a fantastic site – very helpful. Can I use a penetrating sealer such as siliconate and then go over the top of it with an acrylic sealer (gloss or flat)? If so, would this give me the best solution to protect the concrete with a penetrating sealer and also provide for easy clean up with a smooth, hard top coat? Next question: If I have to recoat the garage floor every 2 years or so with an acrylic product, what is the floor preparation needed for the recoat? Is it easy to touch up too? Thanks very much for your reply.
Shea says
Hi Shaun. Yes you can use a penetrating sealer first before using a film forming sealer such as acrylic. Those type of sealers are also known as moisture blocking sealers. Check with the manufacturer first to verify a topical sealer can be used afterwards. The penetrating moisture block sealer will protect the concrete from moisture under the slab and the acrylic sealer will protect the surface. Generally, all that is required for an acrylic re-coat is to clean the floor and lightly rough up the surface. You can do this with a floor maintainer with a black cleaning pad or use a pole sander with 100 grit sandpaper. It’s not labor intensive. You are just roughing up the surface, not removing it. Once done, wipe the floor with some denatured alcohol and reapply the sealer.
Shaun says
Thanks for the quick reply. I should have also mentioned that last Autumn I sealed the joints in my garage floor with Sikaflex, a polyurethane product. Am I correct in assuming that the acrylic sealer will not adhere to this product and I will need to mask these joints off before applying the acrylic sealer? THANKS.
Shea says
That’s correct Shaun.
Ron Sears says
Great site, thanks! I did my own concrete work in my new 60’x60′ shop in 3 “pours”. (6″ of 6 bag mix with 18″ #4 rebar grid). Do to inexperience and changing weather conditions I was forced to spray some water on one area to finish power troweling. It actually looks really good, but I am concerned about dusting etc.. It has only been about 2 weeks and I am racing to get the walls and roof on before winter. What do you recommend to complete my floor. Long life and no dust are my primary goals.
Shea says
Hi Ron. The surface of the area you watered down can be weakened by the excess water used when troweling. Based on your main goal of no dusting and wanting something that will last for years, a siliconate penetrating sealer would be our first choice. You can read about them here. They can be applied immediately and will help strengthen the surface as well as protect it.