A garage floor sealer sounds simple enough to protect and seal the concrete in your garage or workshop. But what does a sealer do for the concrete and which type should you use? Which sealer is best for your requirements and budget? Options include densifiers, siliconates, oil-repelling sealers, salt-repelling sealers, epoxy, polyurea, acrylics, and more. As you can see, it can become a bit overwhelming.
Don’t fret, it’s not as confusing as it may seem at first. Our goal is to explain the differences in sealers for a garage floor or workshop so that it’s much easier to understand. We will discuss how they work, how they are applied, and the benefits of each. This should help you determine what sealer will be best for your needs.
We include economical sealers that protect the bare concrete for a nice clean look, sealers for working garages and workshop floors, as well as decorative sealers and coatings. That’s right, garage floor coatings are sealers as well.
Penetrating Sealers VS Topical Sealers – What’s the Difference?
There are two distinct categories of garage floor sealers that determine performance, looks, and application requirements. They are penetrating sealers and topical sealers.
Though both types seal the concrete, they look and perform much differently from one another. With so many garage flooring options available, it’s important to get a basic understanding of each.
Penetrating Sealers
Penetrating sealers work by penetrating into the concrete upon application. They react with the minerals in the concrete to form a hard, gel-like molecular barrier in the subsurface. Otherwise known as non-film-forming sealers, they are breathable and do not form a coating on the concrete surface.
As a result, penetrating sealers do not change the look of bare concrete. And because they are non-film forming, they cannot be scratched if you drag a sharp object across the concrete surface. In addition, they will retain the same wet slip resistance of the current concrete surface.
Furthermore, penetrating sealers typically are the most economical sealing solution for a garage floor or workshop and one of the easiest of all garage flooring options to apply.
An important fact about penetrating sealers is that they are not waterproof as some people assume. Nor are they stainproof. This is due to the non-film-forming properties of the sealer.
Though they do a good job of repelling water and resisting automotive fluids, all liquids will eventually penetrate the concrete surface if allowed to sit long enough. How long they sit before penetration is determined by the type of sealer and the porosity of the concrete.
Lastly, liquids such as oil, automotive fluids, and other contaminants can stain if allowed to sit. How much they stain and how easily an oil stain cleans up are determined by the type of penetrating sealer applied and how long the oil or other contaminant was allowed to sit.
When it comes to stain resistance, the goal of a penetrating sealer is to provide enough time for spills and leaks to be cleaned up first before they have a chance to stain. This includes some of the newer oil-repelling sealers the industry has introduced to provide better stain resistance.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers / Coatings
Topical sealers adhere to the concrete surface with only slight penetration. Also known as film-forming sealers, they are more widely known as floor coatings or garage floor coatings. They form a protective layer that is typically non-breathable and can be impermeable depending on the coating used.
Many are 2-part resinous coatings that require mixing before application, though there are exceptions. They chemically cure and create a hard coating that is extremely durable. The thickness, abrasive properties, and chemical resistance of these coating sealers can vary depending on the type and quality of the coating that is used.
Paint and 1-part epoxy paint are not sealers or coatings. Don’t make this mistake! We discuss why here.
Most coatings are also considered decorative. Clear coatings will enhance the look of the garage floor surface. They tend to darken bare concrete, add character, and provide a matte to a glossy finish.
In addition, clear coating sealers are used to protect and highlight the colors of stained or dyed concrete. They make the colors pop with vibrancy and add shine.
Colored coatings completely change the look of the garage floor. Epoxy and polyurea garage floor coatings are great examples. You can opt for a solid color or add multi-colored acrylic flakes with a clear coat to create your own unique color palette.
Unlike penetrating sealers, topical sealers and coatings prevent the bare concrete from being stained by oils, automotive fluids, and chemicals. This is because the coating acts as a sacrificial barrier.
Furthermore, one large advantage of topical sealers over penetrating sealers is that the surface is very easy to keep clean.
Higher-performing coatings can also be extremely stain resistant. Oil, chemicals, salty road brines, and other fluids can sit for much longer periods. All that is required in most cases is wiping up the mess with a rag. A shot of Windex can remove any leftover film residue.
Lastly, many topical sealers and coatings will prevent the penetration of water and liquids into the concrete. This doesn’t necessarily make the entire garage floor waterproof. Exposed cracks and concrete joints can still allow water to seep into the concrete.
Now that we better understand the difference between penetrating garage floor sealers and topical garage floor sealers, let us discuss the various types available and what we can recommend.
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Recommended Penetrating Sealers for Garage Floors
There is a wide range of penetrating sealers for concrete to choose from. Therefore, it can easily become overwhelming if you don’t know what to look for.
There are silane concrete sealers, silicone sealers, siloxane sealers, siliconate sealers, densifiers, oleophobic concrete sealers, and more. Many are hybrids of each. Some are water-based, while others or solvent-based. Many do not work very well for a garage floor.
As a result, we will only discuss those penetrating sealers that we recommend and know to work best for a garage or workshop floor. In addition, we will discuss concrete prep that may be required and sealer application.
Siliconate Sealers
Siliconate sealers are a great choice for homeowners who just want good general protection of their bare concrete at a minimal cost with ease of application. Often considered the “all-purpose” sealer for garage floors and workshops, they are a great value as well.
Compared to other penetrating sealers, their medium-sized molecular structure does not allow the sealant to penetrate too deep. This provides for better coverage rates and more importantly, better protection of the concrete surface.
As a result, they provide good water repellency including repellency against moisture, road salts, and dirt. Siliconate sealers also resist efflorescence and provide good protection against freeze-thaw, which is the leading cause of spalling of concrete.
Learn more: Why Penetrating Siliconate Sealers May Be All You Need
One thing to keep in mind is that siliconate sealers do not repel oil. Though they will buy you some time for cleanup by slowing down penetration into the concrete, a stain can occur if oil is allowed to sit for long. However, the resulting stain will not be nearly as bad as an oil stain on untreated concrete.
As with the majority of penetrating sealers, the application is very easy. For most concrete surfaces, the only preparation required is to clean and degrease. Once the concrete has thoroughly dried, one coat of the sealer is applied using a low-pressure pump-up garden sprayer with a conical spray nozzle.
Densifiers and Densifier Sealers
Densifiers are a type of silicate sealer. They had been used primarily in the process of polishing concrete and for adding strength to newly poured concrete floors. However, with the introduction of easier-to-apply lithium silicate densifiers, they have become more popular for garage, workshop, and warehouse floors.
Densifiers work by reacting with minerals in the concrete to form a very hard substance called calcium silicate hydrate or CSH. The CSH fills many of the empty voids and pores of the concrete at and near the surface. This increases the density, strength, and hardness of the concrete in these areas.
Check the Current Price on our Top Recommended Densifier
In addition, the filling of these voids with CSH reduces concrete dusting. Furthermore, it slows down moisture intrusion from below the slab to help prevent efflorescence and moisture vapor. However, silicate densifiers do not repel water or other liquids.
As a result of their increasing popularity, manufacturers began adding siliconate to densifiers to provide water and liquid-repelling characteristics. This new type of densifier with siliconate sealer added provides the characteristics of a densifier plus, the same protections as a siliconate sealer as well.
Learn more: Why Densifiers are the New Garage Floor Sealer
As with siliconate sealers, densifiers do not repel oil. However, testing has shown that densifiers with siliconate sealer added do a better job at resisting oil stains than a stand-alone siliconate sealer only.
The application is similar to that of a siliconate sealer. However, more importance is emphasized on not letting the densifier puddle. If it does, it’s important to use a paint roller to roll out the excess or use a broom to work it into the concrete.
If allowed to dry with excess sealer on the surface, a white powder will form and require heavy scrubbing to remove.
Oil Repelling Penetrating Sealers
Oil-repelling penetrating sealers are fairly new to the market. They’ve come about due to the constant demand for a better-performing sealer against staining from oil and other automotive fluids for garage floors and workshops.
A unique ingredient of these sealers is the use of fluorocarbons to create an oleophobic barrier. Oleophobic refers to the physical property of a molecule to seemingly repel oil.
Oil will lay flat or even run on a concrete surface treated with typical penetrating sealers. This characteristic does not resist the penetration of oil nearly as well as water which typically beads from being repelled.
However, oil tends to bead somewhat on a concrete surface treated with an oleophobic sealer. This repelling action allows the oil to sit for a longer period with less chance of penetration into the concrete.
This repelling action allows for an easier cleanup of oils and other automotive fluids and less chance of an oil stain. However, this does not mean the concrete can’t be stained. As with all penetrating sealers, oil and other offending contaminants will stain eventually if allowed to sit long enough.
What oil-repelling penetrating concrete sealers do is allow more time for the oil to sit before cleanup. In addition, it can also make the removal of any offending stains easier.
The raw materials used for these sealers are more expensive. As a result, they cost more than typical penetrating sealers. In addition, one popular oil-repelling sealer that is known to work well also requires the application of a densifier first.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Single Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Oil-repelling sealers in most cases are the better choice to use on garage floors and workshops. However, the importance of these characteristics versus cost is something to consider if you are on a budget.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Dual Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Application of these sealers is a bit more involved but still fairly easy. The concrete must be degreased, clean, and dry. Depending on the sealer used, the application can require a wet flood coat using a pump-up sprayer or application via a lambswool pad or microfiber pad.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers and Coatings
The number of options for garage floor coatings and topical sealers is large. There are acrylic coatings and sealers, epoxy, polyurethane, polyurea, and polyaspartics. In addition, there are single-part moisture-cured coatings and 2-part coatings. And most come in a choice of clear or colored.
Furthermore, the application process, performance characteristics, and durability vary greatly. This includes what chemicals, stains, and abuse they can withstand.
As a result, this is an area where research before a purchase is paramount. Marketing campaigns by large corporations such as Rust-Oleum, Behr, QuikRete, H&C, and others have only served to confuse the consumer. This has led to many unhappy or misinformed purchases.
In addition, do not rely on information from home improvement centers. They are not knowledgeable about concrete coatings and they do not carry quality products in their inventory.
The following topical sealer options below are listed from low to high in approximate cost.
Acrylic concrete sealers
Acrylic concrete sealers form a thin protective layer on bare concrete. Most are clear, but some can be tinted for color. Expect 1 – 1.5 mils dry film thickness per coat on average.
They will enhance the look of the garage floor and make the concrete look slightly darker. The floor will attain a somewhat wet and glossy look or you can opt for a less flashy matte finish. Glossy finishes tend to be more durable.
In terms of performance, acrylic sealers will protect the garage floor from water and chloride intrusion. In addition, they provide light to moderate protection against oil, vehicle fluids, hot tire pick-up, and road salts.
Most acrylic sealers are also U.V. stable. This means that they will not turn a yellow tint if exposed to direct sunlight.
Water-based acrylic sealers are the least durable of all concrete coating options and the easiest to scratch. Solvent-based acrylics increase durability, scratch resistance, and chemical resistance from automotive fluids.
For a more durable alternative, we recommend the performance of MMA acrylic sealers. These have longer endurance properties than standard acrylic sealers and can withstand harsher chemicals.
Acrylic sealers perform best with light to moderate traffic. Reapplication may be required once every 18 to 36 months depending on the sealer used.
One DIY advantage of acrylic sealers is that they are fairly easy to apply. The concrete needs to be degreased, cleaned, and dry. Etching of the concrete is typically not required unless the surface is extremely smooth.
You can use either a low-pressure pump-up sprayer or apply it with a paintbrush and rollers out of a tray. The key to a successful application is to apply the coating thin or problems will develop. Typically, two coats are applied for the best protection.
Modified Acrylic Polyurethane Sealers
If you like the look of a clear sealer on bare concrete, then one of the best-performing values is a modified acrylic polyurethane.
This is a somewhat new sealer for garage floors that we feel is going to explode in popularity once the word gets out. It combines high performance and ease of application at a budget price.
Technically, they are a thin, 2-part water-based, high-performance, acrylic-modified, aliphatic polyurethane coating and sealer. Aliphatic means that they are U.V. stable and will not amber. In addition, they are Eco-friendly, and no etching of the concrete is required.
Acrylic-modified polyurethane sealers provide better abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, and stain resistance than most epoxy. They are a true workhorse sealer for garage floors and workshops.
A minimum of two thin coats is required. This will result in a dry film thickness of just under 2 mils. Three coats are recommended for commercial applications. They are one of the few topical sealers that will adhere well to machine-troweled concrete.
Learn More: Our Top Recommended Acrylic Modified Polyurethane
These are best used on smooth concrete with few repairs. Due to their thin nature, they are not recommended on rough garage floor finishes or concrete with numerous repairs. They are not thick enough to provide self-leveling properties such as epoxy or polyurea.
Furthermore, they will only adhere to bare, unsealed concrete and are not compatible as a clear sealer over epoxy or other coatings.
Application requires that the concrete be clean and dry. No etching of the concrete is required. The sealer is best applied using a low-pressure pump-up sprayer with a conical spray nozzle in conjunction with a microfiber application pad or 1/4″ low nap roller.
Epoxy Concrete Sealers
Undisputedly, the most popular sealer is garage floor epoxy. Epoxy is a 2-part thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating. It chemically cures to create polymer structures that are closely cross-linked. This is what gives epoxy its superior strength and durability.
Epoxy is available as a clear coat to bare concrete but is more commonly applied in solid colors. Finishes range from satin for low-budget formulas to a high gloss for commercial-quality epoxy.
The most durable applications are epoxy systems that include a minimum of a color coat, optional decorative color flakes, and a clear coat. Professionally installed garage floor coatings consist of such systems.
Learn more: How to Choose the Best Garage Floor Epoxy System
In addition, epoxy coating sealers are much thicker than acrylics. They can be applied thicker than any other coating available. Depending on the solids content, one coat of epoxy can be applied at 2.5 – 12 mils dry film thickness and higher.
Epoxy sealers can withstand heavy traffic and are abrasion resistant. Furthermore, most are non-breathable and will prevent water and chemical intrusion at the surface. They are resistant to most chemicals, oil, vehicle fluids, road salts, and hot tire pickup.
One disadvantage is that epoxy is not U.V. resistant. If exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight, it can turn a yellow tint (amber) over a period of time.
Single-coat DIY garage floor epoxy kits purchased from local home improvement centers are the least durable epoxy coatings. We explain more in detail here.
Epoxy sealer application is more involved and time-consuming compared to penetrating sealers. However, DIY application is very common. Application is done using paintbrushes and paint rollers.
Proper concrete preparation is essential or the coating will not adhere properly. Etching the concrete is required at the minimum. Grinding the concrete may be preferred for some applications, but it is not mandatory.
In addition, epoxy application is time sensitive. Once the two parts are mixed, you typically have 30 – 40 minutes to get the epoxy applied before it hardens up. Low-quality epoxy allows for more application time. This time limit is dependent on the solids content. The higher the solids content (thicker, higher-performing coatings), the less time you have to apply it.
Moisture Cured Direct to Concrete Polyurethane Sealers
Polyurethane is a high-performance coating with increased benefits over epoxy. Depending on the quality, it is typically more abrasion and scratch resistant than epoxy. It wears longer and is more chemical and stain resistant. And unlike epoxy, most polyurethanes are U.V. stable and will not amber.
Traditional polyurethane coatings are available in 2-part formulas or single-part moisture-cured formulas. Like acrylics, they are applied thinly with an average dry film thickness of 2-2.5 mils.
However, one issue with traditional polyurethane concrete coating sealers is that they do not bond well directly to concrete. Instead, they are used as a U.V. stable colored coating over epoxy or more commonly, as a clear coat over epoxy.
Fortunately, this bonding issue has recently changed with the introduction of newer moisture-cured polyurethanes designed specifically to bond directly to concrete. Moisture-cured coatings are single-part and do not require mixing in a second part to act as a catalyst to start the chemical curing process.
Instead, it uses moisture in the air as the catalyst. The coating is not activated until it is applied to the concrete and exposed to the moisture in the air. As a result, you have a much longer working time to apply the coating as compared to epoxy. This is a nice benefit for DIY installations.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Moisture-Cured Polyurethane
Because these coatings are thin, they typically require a minimum of two color coats. One clear coat is sufficient if applied to bare concrete. However, two are recommended for more durability if it’s a busy working garage or workshop.
This type of coating sealer will not do a good job of hiding irregularities in the concrete due to its thin nature. High solids epoxy is better for that.
Application of direct to concrete moisture-cured polyurethane sealers is varied. The concrete must be clean, degreased, and completely dry throughout.
In addition, most require that the surface be acid etched. However, polyurethanes such as DuraGrade Concrete by Rust Bullet do not require etching in many cases. This can be a huge benefit to DIY installers that do not want to deal with additional concrete prep. Like most coatings, it is applied with paint rollers and brushes.
Polyurea and Polyaspartic floor sealers
Last on the list are the newer polyurea and polyaspartic floor coating sealers. These are a sub-group of polyurethane and have a similar finish to epoxy and polyurethane coated floors.
They are U.V. stable and can provide better protection than polyurethane. They also provide the best resistance against brown tire prints in the coating.
Unlike epoxy and polyurethane, many of these coatings can be applied in extreme temperatures from below freezing to over 100 degrees, depending on the formula.
What makes these coatings popular is their extremely fast return-to-service times. They can be installed on your garage floor in one day and driven on the next. Most polyurea and polyaspartic coatings need to be applied by a professional due to their very short working time. Twenty minutes or less is typical.
There are newer polyurea coating sealers that have been introduced that are much more DIY-friendly. They can provide up to two hours to get the coating applied depending on the polyurea or polyaspartic formula.
Learn more: Why the best DIY Garage Flooring Kits are Single-Part Polyurea
These long application times reduce the common anxiety of getting the coating applied in enough time. As a result, they can be an excellent choice for a DIY application.
We highly recommend the newer single-part polyurea coatings. These are commercial-quality, moisture-cured coatings that will last 10-15 years or more on a garage floor.
Final thoughts
We have a few considerations for you to keep in mind when deciding which garage floor sealer is best for you.
If you have issues with moisture coming up through the concrete, a penetrating garage floor sealer is generally the better choice. Because they are breathable, they will not be affected by moisture vapor. As we discussed, they may also serve to block or reduce moisture coming up from underneath the concrete slab.
Acrylic sealers are breathable and will tolerate low levels of moisture. Resinous topical sealers and coatings such as epoxy, polyurethanes, and polyurea will not allow for moisture transfer. They can peel and even pull small chunks of concrete up with it if moisture gets trapped under the coating. Moisture testing should be conducted if you suspect it may be an issue before applying a topical sealer.
If you use your garage or workshop for metal fabrication and welding, a penetrating sealer may be the better option. Coatings will get damaged if sharp metal objects are dragged across the surface. They will also incur burn marks from welding slag or heavy metal grinding.
Lastly, take the time to evaluate your requirements. Be realistic in terms of what you want a concrete sealer to do for your garage floor or workshop. No penetrating or film-forming topical sealer and coating are perfect. Compromises may need to be made, particularly if budget is a concern.
Lance says
I just painted my 1 car garage floor with 2 part valspar epoxy paint from Lowes and used paint flecks. I want to seal it, but not sure exactly what type to use. I’ll need a semi gloss with non-slip added. Can you recommend a product that I can buy from Lowes or HD? Not sure that there are any more pro shops in my area. Thanks for the help!
Shea says
Hello Lance. Technically, the epoxy paint that you applied has already sealed the garage floor. It blocks oils, water, salts, chemicals, and other contaminants from getting into the concrete. You can add a clear epoxy top coat however to make it more durable, give the floor finish more depth, and to add a non slip additive. Rust-Oleum makes one that you can usually find from Home Depot. Add some SharkGrip to it and you will have an anti-slip surface.
Matt says
Shea,
I have a brand new farm shop with 4,175 square ft for shop floor and 625 for living area. Since it is new and unused I want to put down a sealer prior to driving on the concrete.My planned usage is: In the shop part a sealer is needed that will stand up to tractors, welding/fabrication and storage & we want a stain/sealer for the living area. There are so many brands and types out there, would you recommend an epoxy stain for both areas? I do not care about beauty as much as functionality. Thanks
Shea says
Wow Matt, that’s a lot of floor! First I would like to clear up something you may be confused about. Epoxy is not a stain. It’s actually a topical film forming sealer that can be tinted to many solid colors or applied clear. A stain is applied to bare concrete to change the color, but it doesn’t protect the concrete unless you apply a film forming top coat, such as clear epoxy, over the top of it.
Keep in mind that there isn’t a floor coating that will stand up to welding and metal fabricating over the years and still look nice. It will get burn marks. If functionality is your goal, we recommend a penetrating sealer. This is by far the least expensive option and it doesn’t change the look of the concrete. For the living area you have a few choices. You can can stain the concrete if like that look and apply an acrylic sealer over it to make the color pop. You can use a clear epoxy as well but since it’s a living area, acrylic is less expensive, easier to apply, and wears extremely well with just foot traffic. Even easier is a tinted acrylic sealer which eliminates staining the concrete. They are available in a variety of translucent colors and can be reapplied as necessary.
Don says
Hey, my question isn’t about a garage floor, but a stone porch. We bought a house that the previous owners had closed in the front porch and left the stone pillars showing inside. We want to find a product that would help insulate them, but still show the stones. Any info would be great, Thanks.
Shea says
Hi Don. Unfortunately sealers do not insulate. They pass cold and heat right through just like stone.
Frank says
I have just put the rustroleum 2 part epoxy with the coloured chips on my garage floor. Followered all instructions and it looks great. My question is do I need to put a clear rustroleum coat on for extra protection as all I can buy is a full kit with the etching including. We have already done the etching just want to make sure our floor is well protected.
Shea says
Hi Frank. You are not required to put a clear top coat down, but it is recommended for increasing the durability of the coating as well as enhancing the looks. You can read about why a clear top coat is recommended here. At issue however is your re-coat window. You only have 24 hours to apply the clear coat to achieve proper chemical adhesion. Once that window has expired you will need to rough up the surface with 80 grit sandpaper, sweep or vacuum, and then wipe the surface down with denatured alcohol to remove any remaining debris. This is required in order for the clear epoxy to adhere mechanically as it did with the concrete surface. Etching is only required for the epoxy to adhere to concrete.
Michael D says
I am looking at a solvent based epoxy floor coating. Can you put an acrylic clear coat over that? Dont want to put an epoxy clear on it as it will have some contact with sunlight and have read about the clear epoxy yellowing badly.
Shea says
Hello Michael. No, you can’t put an acrylic sealer over epoxy. We would recommend a polyurethane coating over epoxy however. It is more abrasion resistant than epoxy and is also U.V. resistant. Keep in mind that solvent based epoxy can amber in sunlight as well. The polyurethane will help to screen out the U.V. rays and slow the process down.
Michael D says
Would you use a solvent based polyurethane or water base? Does it matter?
Shea says
Hi Michael. Generally for a garage floor, the 2 part solvent based aliphatic polyurethanes are going to give you the best performance. There are a few very good 1 part moisture cure polyurethanes available now however if the VOC’s are an issue for you.
RivertideRed says
Two years ago I had a debacle with some chickens and ducks in my garage that caused horrible stains. I used every kind of cleaner know to mankind but a lot of stains remained. Then on Sunday, a gallon size pail of gray paint fell out of my truck and the lid popped off spilling 7/8th of the can onto the garage floor before I could get it picked up. After move the truck and all the stuff out of the garage and blowing the leaves, dirt, etc. out of the garage, I used a large roller and rolled the gray paint over 2/3rds of the floor. It actually looks great. I did not put it where I walk. What topical sealer can I use to keep the paint from flaking and add durability?
Shea says
OMG, what a way to end up painting your garage floor Rivertide. There really isn’t anything you can add to paint. Hopefully you won’t have issues with the paint peeling up in a few months since you really didn’t get to prep the concrete like you should beforehand.
Justin says
Hello, I need some help. I have a small indoor room with concrete floors. I first put a thin coat of Thompson’s WaterSeal Clear Multi-Surface Waterproofer on, which was incredibly tacky even after more than allotted dry time (24 hrs). I then put a layer of SealKrete Clear-Seal (premium low gloss sealer) on top of this. I have let it dry for 4 days and the surface is still sticky and tacky – a little less than before but still way too tacky. What can I do to get rid of the tackiness? Do I need to remove the sealers and start over? Or can I put another coat of the SealKrete and keep covering the tacky surface of the WaterSeal? If I need to remove can you recommend a stripper that would work for this job? Thank you so much!!
Shea says
Hello Justin, you seem to have a couple of issues here. First, tackiness will happen if the product is applied too thick and/or is subjected to temperatures below 40 degrees within 48 hours of application. It will also remain tacky if you have moisture issues with the concrete. Also, while it does take 24 hours to dry, you need to wait a minimum of 3 days and up to 45 days before applying paint over it depending on whether it is water based or oil based. The second issue is that this product can have paint applied over it, not another sealer like SealKrete. If you check the SealKrete product, it is designed to be applied to either bare concrete or latex paint as well, not another sealer. Unfortunately you will need to remove what you have and start over using only use 1 product. Since you are indoors we recommend contacting Seal Green. They have an environmentally safe soy gel that can do the job for you.
Justin says
Thanks, Shea. Another question – would sanding the floors remove the tackiness? Or putting a layer of floor paint on?
Shea says
You will just be creating a bigger mess to correct if you apply paint over it. The SealKrete is not compatible over the Thompson’s and paint is not compatible over the SealKrete. Sanding wont’ remove the tackiness either. The SealKrete may eventually lose the tackiness but it will also start to peel up due to the incompatibility with the Thompson’s.
lata says
I want to give a decorative look and still able to park my car. Something in high gloss maybe.
Rhonda says
We poured pad outside for building/garage. However, the concrete must of been bad because it is flaking off & gets everywhere. My husband has tried to seal it but nothing sticks and when sweeping the top layer turns to dust. Had 3 coats of concrete sealer put on & it will not absorb. I guess maybe the concrete never cured perhaps. I have area 10ft x 10ft that I drive over before getting into garage carpeted area. Is there anything that can be used to put over the existing concrete to keep from flaking & it is exposed to sunlight. I am not sure if flaking is the correct term & I live in GA. The stuff tracks on your feet and into the garage kinda messy. Thank you in advance.
Shea says
Hi Rhonda. It sounds like it was possibly a bad batch of concrete or it was too wet with bleed water when it was troweled. No amount of sealer is going to fix that. The only thing that you can do really is to take a concrete grinder to the slab and see if you can grind the surface down a notch to a much harder layer under the sandy cap. If you can, do that and then seal it with a densifier sealer. If a grinder doesn’t produce hard concrete then the only other option is to tear it out and replace it.
Rhonda says
Thanks Shea! I was hoping that was not the case but what I figured. It had to be bad batch and the inside of garage is covered with indoor/outdoor carpet so not a problem. Really don’t want to tear out so we decided to put down rubber stall mats on the area so we don’t track in out of the garage. This is such a great site and thank you again for such a quick response.
don says
I have a 18×22 car port. I have a canopy over it. it was broom sweap when it was poured. I want to put a paint or epoxy coating on it to make a smooth surface and easier to clean. what should I use. thanks and I enjoy your site
Shea says
Hi Don. Epoxy is not a good option outdoors. All the indirect sunlight will turn it yellow. You can use a clear or colored polyaspartic coating however as these will not yellow. Keep in mind you will need to prep the surface properly before applying it. Also, polyaspartic is not the most DIY friendly. Paint does not do well outdoors for a carport either. However, if you don’t mind a silver grey color, this product by Rust Bullet is outstanding and would not require much prep except for cleaning before hand. The easiest solution for you may be a MMA acylic sealer. These are not affected by U.V. light, they are easy to apply, and will last quite a while before a reapplication is necessary. You can even tint for color if you like.
Wyman Starnes says
I had a man that put 2 coats of 1% slate gray epoxy paint under my garage. after drying a couple of weeks, he came and put some tyoe of sealant on top of this. After six days the sealant is tacky and if you walk on it all of the paint comes up, so I’m afraid to drive on it. What is causing this?
Shea says
Hi Wyman. What was the product your guy put down exactly? You say 1% epoxy, did you mean 100%? You mention that it went under your garage. Is this on a below grade slab under the garage? What type of sealant was used? I think this may be the biggest problem. You do not seal epoxy as it is already a sealant. You can apply a clear top coat of additional epoxy or polyurethane, but you would need to prep the surface properly after waiting two weeks. It can’t just be applied on the top without prep.
Sam says
My house is 20 years old and I want to seal the concrete garage floor. There are existing stains that I don’t care about. My objective is a cleaner looking floor and cut down on the dust from the concrete. Which type would you suggest as most economical for’this purpose? Thanks in advance for your advice.
Shea says
Hi Sam. A penetrating sealer is going to be your most economical choice for what you want to accomplish. Keep in mind that you will want to clean up the stains best you can in order for the sealer to work in those spots. It cannot penetrate the concrete and seal it if oils from stains are blocking it.
Sam says
Thanks. Is this easy for DIY?
Shea says
Yes, it’s very easy Sam. The most important part is cleaning the floor properly. The application can be done with a paint roller or a pump up garden sprayer. Just follow the manufactures instructions and you can always call their tech line if you have any questions.
Ron B. says
I have a Rock Solid epoxy stone flooring in my garage. I am looking for something to put a clear shiney sealant/coating. Something that work with that type flooring system. Thks
Shea says
Hi Ron. The RockSolid flooring is already a sealant. We suggest using the RockSolid polycuramine clear coat. It should be compatible with your floor. We always recommend contacting the manufacturer first to verify however. You will need to prep the surface of your current floor first before applying it. You can read more about how to do that here.
Darlene says
We are having a new cement floor done in our garage. From reading these articles, seems the best sealer for our purposes is a siliconate penatrating sealer, as we are in a cold winter climate. A few questions:
– how soon after the cement is poured can we apply the sealer?
-since that type does not give a nice surface finish, can we apply a paint or acrylic on top of it? If so, how soon afterwards and what is best?
Thanks
Shea says
Hello Darlene. Most penetrating sealers can be applied within hours of the pour and can be used if you plan on installing a topical coating later. They will actually help the concrete cure. There are also “cure and seal” sealers that are acrylic in nature. These however don’t have a very durable acrylic top coat. Plus, you will need to remove the top coat if you want to apply a better acrylic sealer or other topical coating later.
One thing to keep in mind is that most topical coatings such as acrylic and epoxy are sealers. There is no need to apply a penetrating sealer if you are going to apply a topical sealer unless you are concerned about the concrete curing properly. Paint on the other hand is not a sealer and not a long term solution. There are many good products out there. We recommend that you contact Legacy Industrial as they have a wide range of penetrating and topical sealers to choose from.
Darlene says
Thanks for a quick response.
Good to know we can apply it right away.
I’m not clear about the 2nd question. The description for penetrating sealers mention it would still look like bare cement afterwards. We may want some colour and/or sheen. Could we apply an acrylic sealer or concrete paint on top of the penetrating sealer right away, solely for that purpose? Or are there penetrating sealers with colour?
My searches on the site you mentioned didn’t work. Note I live in Canada, so would want products available here.
Shea says
Penetrating sealers can be tinted, but they will have a matte look, no sheen. The color will not pop. Again, acrylic is a sealer. No need to apply a penetrating sealer if you want to apply an acrylic sealer. The difference is that acrylic is topical. Acrylic sealers can be tinted and are available in glossy finishes. Most can be applied to the concrete soon after the pour. Concrete paint is not a sealer, it will peel up eventually, and you have to wait a minimum of 30 days before applying. It will have to be repainted once a year or so. It really is considered a budget flooring option. If you want color like paint, you would be much better off with an epoxy or polyaspartic floor system, but it will require much more floor prep and more money.
Here’s a link you should look at. The MMA sealers are acrylic and can be tinted for color. You can call and ask about the penetrating sealers as well. They ship free, they ship to Canada, but I don’t know if they ship free to Canada. You will need to ask. I wish we could help you with suppliers up there, but we aren’t familiar.
Steve says
Want to seal my painted garage floor. What is the best approach? and the best products to consider.
Steve
Shea says
Hello Steve. There are very few options since paint really is not a good base for a sealer. A couple of the paint manufacturers make a sealer, Behr is one of them, but the sealer is designed more for foot traffic than vehicle traffic. You can drive on it, but we know from the experience of others that it will not last and hot tires will pull it up.
dominic says
You gave some recommendations for the SILICONATE SEALERS but made not recommendations for the densifier and sealer combination. What products do you recommend? Should they be applied by a professional?
Shea says
Hello Dominic. There are quite a few good products out there. Legacy Industrial’s HD-39 is a good product, TrueLock TL39 as well as Concrete Sealers USA PS-104 just to name a few. These are not hard to apply yourself and qualify as a DIY install.
Carl Thorpe says
We are about to pour new concrete slab in garage. Which method will give the best life wear?
Option 1 – How soon can I apply epoxy coating to new concrete that 4500 psi? The footage is 650 sf.
Option two – have the concrete add color mix at the plant then apply clear polyaspartic coat?
Shea says
Hi Carl. You need to wait a minimum of 30 days and preferably longer (60 days) if you can. The reason is that newly poured concrete gives off quite a bit of moisture vapor while it cures. Epoxy and polyaspartic coating will not let that moisture transmit through like other sealers and can lead to failure if you apply it too soon.
Both options will be very durable in a garage with normal traffic. Ultimately it comes down to how many coats are applied. An epoxy coating with a primer, 100% epoxy color coat, and a coat or two of polyurethane is a very tough coating. If you go with at least two coats of the clear polyaspartic over the colored concrete, then you will have a very tough and durable clear coat. It will make the color in the concrete “pop” as well.
Manoshi says
We are a 26 unit three floor condominium complex and have a large covered garage. The building is 12 years old. The garage has been sweeped and washed before, but now the question of sealants came up. What kind of sealants will be lasting, durable and resist car oil and other harsh chemical stains? Matt finish is okay for us. We are not looking for looks, just durability and excellent protection. Please help. Thanks.
Shea says
Hello Manoshi. We recommend that you contact VSeal about your requirements. They make excellent commercial sealing products and will have a couple suggestions based on your needs.
Stephanie says
Great information – my question is how to handle applying a penetrating sealer to a garage floor with moisture problems from the ground – garage is partially below grade. I have one small section that seems quite moist. Thanks.
Shea says
Hi Stephanie. The first thing you want to do is make sure that the drainage around the foundation of the home is good. Many times problems such as yours can be caused by earth that slopes towards the home allowing water to collect against the foundation. Broken sprinklers and down spouts that don’t allow for water to drain away from the home are contributors as well. These are one of the leading causes to moisture issues in garage floors that are partially below grade.
Next, you need to prep the floor by cleaning and following any other recommended instructions from the sealer you use. While the rest of the floor is drying from cleaning, you will want to place a fan to blow air across the small section where you have issues. The air moving across the surface will help the water evaporate and wick away moisture. It may take a day or two. Once that spot looks bone dry, you will want to test it by taping down a 16″x16″ sheet of plastic over the middle of the area. Make sure the edges are all sealed and let it sit overnight. Pull it up the next day and check for moisture. If the underside of the plastic is dry and you don’t have a dark spot in the concrete, then go ahead and apply the sealer. If the concrete is dark from dampness, you will need to run the fan longer until it passes the test.
Rob Rhodes says
My garage floor is pitted. I would like to apply a substance to smooth the surface and protect from penetrating water and winter road salt. What do you recommend?
Shea says
Hi Rob. We have a post covering that topic here. We would recommend using a polymer-modified cement and then treating your floor with a good penetrating sealer. If you want to completely change the look of the floor, then you can seal it with a coating of epoxy after you make the repairs.
Teri says
I’m a paint loving diy grandmother that wants to paint the garage floor and then seal it. Lowes is the store in our town and I don’t want them trying to sell me over the top sealant. Please help me.
Shea says
Hi Teri. You can’t seal the floor if you paint it with regular latex concrete garage floor paint. Sealers are not designed to be applied to paint. It is a low budget solution as a garage flooring upgrade. We talk more about it here. However, Lowes does sell Valspar Garage Floor Epoxy which is a sealer and is available in tan and grey. They also have an optional clear coat available for it.
John says
Good day.
My Builder used undiluted Muriatic acid on my garage floor to remove red stain. This has caused significant yellow staining and the sealant to come off. They have agreed to provide me with the materials to seal and paint (I don’t trust them to complete it properly). Can you recommend what I should use to seal ? I was thinking about silver colour to cover the stains. Please note that I am located in Canada.
Thank you,
John
Shea says
Hi John. We need a little more information. What type of sealant is on the floor currently? Also, what do you mean by seal and then paint? You can’t paint a sealed floor. You can paint concrete but paint is not a sealant. You can apply an epoxy coating which is a sealant. You can apply a tinted acrylic sealer, but the tint is somewhat opaque and discoloration in the concrete may darken those areas. If you can answer these two questions for us and give us a better idea of what you want the garage floor to do for you, then we can most likely help you out better.
Mike G says
I’m building a new home. The concrete will have set for at least 60-90 days before we take over ownership. I’m looking for a durable budget option for coating the floor. Probably a medium gray finish. I’ve read through a ton of material but I feel I’m stuck with the more expensive options. I assume I want a penetrating sealer, epoxy coating with flakes, and a top sealer. I don’t want to risk air or moisture rising up and bubbling the coatings. Suggestions?
Shea says
Hi Mike. Unless you anticipate future moisture problems with your slab, you do not need to apply a penetrating sealer first. If a vapor barrier was installed before the pour then you shouldn’t have to worry about moisture anyways. Also, as long as it’s not too humid and the first application of any coating is applied in the late afternoon or early evening after temperatures have started falling, you should not have problems with bubbles.
One durable budget option you may want to look into is Rust Bullet. We did a full article on it here. It’s an actual single part moisture cure urethane that is extremely tough. You don’t need to acid etch or grind your garage floor first before application either. Just clean it well and make sure it is bone dry before application. It comes in a metallic gray that you may like.
Dwight says
I am laying wood floor over concrete and I would like to seal the concrete so that the moisture doesn’t come through and that would harden the surface. It has had some water seepage in the past and small amounts of the top of the concrete has seperated and powderized. Any suggestions? I assume a sealer or sealer/densifier would be what I need.
Thanks
Shea says
Hello Dwight. You need to be careful what type of sealer you use if you will be gluing the floor down. It might interfere with the adhesion of the glue and require grinding of the concrete. We recommend using a densifier on the concrete if the upper layer of concrete has turned to powder in places. It will harden the surface and decrease the likelihood of water intrusion.
jessica says
Hello,
We have horrible cats that pee out in our garage. It seems the pee soaks into the concrete, stains, and still smells, even after clean up. I would like to get rid of the smell and try to protect the concrete from future mistakes. Any suggestions on a product that would be good in this situation, so I don’t have to get rid of the cats. 🙂
Thanks!
Shea says
Hi Jessica. The key is to get rid of the odor first. If you don’t, then you risk locking it in permanently with a sealer. Once you get rid of the odor you can seal the surface with a penetrating siliconate sealer or you can coat it with epoxy. This will cause the urine to sit on the surface and be cleaned up with an appropriate cleaner.