One of the toughest and most durable finishes that you can apply to a garage floor today is an epoxy coating. Not only does it protect your garage floor, it can instantly transform your boring or ugly concrete into a professional-looking floor of beauty and function.
And since the garage has become more than just a place where you park the car, the benefits of garage floor epoxy have made it one of the most popular garage flooring options today.
In fact, it is commonly used for both residential and commercial applications. Not only does it provide protection from the elements, but it will also give your garage or workshop floor that showroom shine that says “look at me”!
Depending on which type of garage floor coating system you choose, you can select from a variety of understated colors and hues. Other options are custom colors, metallics, and blends of color flakes that match your style, home, or even your favorite sports team.
So, let’s briefly examine what an epoxy coating really is. We will discuss what the benefits are, learn how it’s applied, and some of the costs involved.
Additionally, we will provide excellent examples of where you can purchase quality coatings and DIY coating kits that we have reviewed and can recommend.
What is garage floor epoxy?
Epoxy flooring is a thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating to concrete. It is created when you mix one-part colored or clear epoxide resin with one part polyamine hardener. Hence, a 2-part coating.
When the two parts are mixed, the hardener acts as a catalyst. This creates a chemical reaction upon contact and begins the exothermic curing process. This curing process forms polymer structures that are closely cross-linked, giving epoxy its superior strength and durability.
The end result is a thick and highly durable coating that bonds tenaciously to a properly prepared concrete surface.
Along with the colored epoxy coating, you also have the option of applying decorative color flakes and a high-performance clear coat. The clear coat protects the color flakes and color coat.
This combination of coatings is known as a garage floor coating system. Commercial quality systems can last for ten to twenty years on a garage floor.
In addition, if you don’t want the traditional epoxy look, there is the option of a metallic epoxy coating.
These finishes are extremely glossy and known for their wild-looking flowing rivers of metallic color. You can even create 3-D moon-like craters if you desire.
Though metallic epoxy can look absolutely stunning for a garage, it’s not for everyone. The darker colors and extreme gloss will show every spec of debris, dust, dusty footprints, and dirty tire tracks. It’s worse when the sun shines on it.
This is why the lighter grays, tans, and color flakes are so popular. They do a good job of not showing dust and the color flakes can camouflage bits of debris and other dirt.
Are there other coatings besides epoxy?
Epoxy is not the only type of decorative coating for a garage. It just happens to be the most well-known due to the many years that it has been available.
Commercial quality, single-part DIY polyurea coating systems are fast becoming a favorite for the DIY installer. These coatings are very durable and easier to apply than epoxy.
What’s more, one-day polyurea polyaspartic coating systems are now offered by commercial installers. These are very durable coatings that cure extremely fast. The fast cure allows them to apply a complete system in just one day.
Is Epoxy and Paint for a garage floor the same thing?
This is where marketing to the consumer by national brands has caused confusion and angst. An epoxy floor coating is not paint. Big retail companies started mixing the terms when they discovered people were asking for paint when they meant epoxy.
Most paints for garage floors are latex acrylic and have a matte to satin finish. They are the least durable of decorative options.
Some may have a very small percentage of epoxy resin added to increase durability, but these are still a latex acrylic and not a coating. These are known as epoxy paints or 1-part epoxy paint.
In addition, garage floor paint and 1-part epoxy paint do not seal the garage floor as an epoxy coating does. They are designed as a single coat application. That means you apply just the paint and that’s it.
Lastly, paint is not intended for clear topcoats. Nor are they compatible with most clear coats. Many people have become frustrated to learn this AFTER they applied a garage floor paint.
Read – Don’t Fall for These Phony “Best Epoxy” Reviews!
Benefits of a garage floor epoxy coating
So, what makes an epoxy coating one of the best finishes for your garage floor? Besides looking nice, the hard and thick coating that you get from epoxy creates a decorative surface that is very durable and easy to keep clean.
It’s resistant to impacts, chipping, chemicals, stains, and surface abrasion. You don’t have to panic about damaging or staining the surface if you spill oil on it or a bicycle falls over.
The thicker coatings also do a great job of covering over minor imperfections such as small spider cracks and flaws in the concrete.
In addition, epoxy is a concrete sealer. This means that it will seal out moisture at the surface as well. This is a great benefit for people who live in snowy climates that deal with road salts and deicing fluids that can damage concrete.
Furthermore, epoxy floor coatings are easy to clean. A mild cleaning solution and water are all that are required. Dirt and debris can be collected with a dust mop or soft broom when the floor is dry.
Epoxy coatings receive high reviews from home mechanics and hobbyists as well. Since it is both chemical and stain resistant, oil, brake fluids, anti-freeze, gasoline, and other caustic car chemicals can easily be wiped up without worry – even if it sits for a while. And because epoxy is a topical sealer, it is also anti-dusting.
Lastly, the high gloss and lighter colors of epoxy reflect overhead and natural light. This results in a brighter work environment that makes more efficient use of the light available.
How well do garage floor coatings stand up to heavy rolling tool boxes, floor jacks, and jack stands? Quite well actually!
As long as any rolling steel wheels are not roughly scarred up or slid across the floor without care, they will not damage or scratch most coatings. This goes for jack stands as well.
Review the different epoxy coating options by Concrete Network
Because the thicker, multiple coat epoxy systems wear so well, warranties of up to 15 years or more for installation by professional installers is becoming common. Many manufacturers even warranty the materials against defects for the life of the floor.
Visit our garage flooring gallery to view more epoxy coated garage floors.
Are garage floor coatings slippery?
Most floor coatings are not slippery when they are dry. However, epoxy and other coatings can become slippery when wet. Typically, the more gloss a coating has, the more slippery it can be when wet.
A heavy application of color flakes can add texture to a coating and make it slightly less slippery, but it is not a substitute for an anti-slip surface. If wet grip or non-slip is a concern, then an anti-slip media should be mixed into the final coat.
Are there drawbacks to an epoxy coating?
As tough as this type of garage floor covering can be, it’s not resistant to everything.
Welding is hard on epoxy and other floor coatings. It can create burn marks from the hot slag that falls on it. In fact, metal fabricating in general can be tough on floor coatings. This is due to the tendency for heavy and sharp objects to get dragged across the surface.
If you are interested in a more utilitarian type of coating that makes cleanup easier, yet resists hot slag and grinding sparks better, then we suggest looking into this coating that we reviewed.
Epoxy and other coatings are not a good choice for garage floors that have moisture issues from below the slab. The rate of moisture vapor transmission from underneath the slab can cause coatings to delaminate if it is too high.
In addition, there is always the concern about hot tire pick up for epoxy. This is a problem that is more closely associated with the home improvement store DIY epoxy paint kits. These are usually water-based coatings that are approximately 50% solids and 3 mils or less thick.
Hot tires can cause these coatings to soften. As the tires begin to cool, they contract ever so slightly, and the tire tread grabs and pulls at the surface of the thinner coating.
This process will actually cause the epoxy to delaminate as the tire pulls it up off the floor.
As a comparison, a 90% – 100% solids epoxy cures to a minimum of 9 mils dry film thickness. Many can be applied much thicker depending on the coverage rate used.
These thicker coatings are considered commercial quality. They are installed professionally or can be purchased from concrete coating vendors online and be applied DIY instead.
Read – Why Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield and similar epoxy paint kits get bad reviews.
Lastly, epoxy is not U.V. stable. It can develop a yellow tint over the years from exposure to direct sunlight. The coating industry refers to this as ambering. Low-quality epoxy can amber within months, while high quality epoxy may take years.
One way to prevent this from happening is to install an epoxy floor system with full color flakes and a high-performance clear coat. Both color flakes and clear topcoats such as polyurea or polyurethane are U.V. stable and will not amber.
How garage floor epoxy is applied
Epoxy floor coatings can be professionally installed or you can do it yourself. A DIY installation can save you quite a bit of money in labor costs. It’s not that difficult as long as you make yourself familiar with all the steps required and plan accordingly.
The first step is proper preparation of the concrete. This is critical and the most important step for a successful coating. The process will involve either floor grinding or acid etching of the surface in order to create the necessary concrete profile.
Repairing concrete cracks or other damage at this time is highly recommended if you want an unblemished look.
High quality epoxy floor systems involve multiple coats to insure a very tough and resistant coating that will last for years.
Depending on the system being applied, an epoxy primer may be applied first.
The primer penetrates and binds to the concrete to provide the best adhesion for the subsequent thick coating layers. Some primers will also act as a moisture vapor barrier. This is for concrete floors that are susceptible to moisture vapor that moves up from the soil through the concrete to the surface.
The next coat is the thick color epoxy base coat. Sometimes referred to as the build coat, This may be applied without a primer depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Next are the optional colored acrylic paint chips. The color coat is what will receive the colored flakes and are applied while the color coat is still freshly wet.
Full color flake coatings are a popular option. This is when the color flakes completely cover the base epoxy coat. This option allows for custom blends of flake colors to provide any color flooring you want. Furthermore, it provides additional thickness and durability to the coating.
The final coat/s is the clear topcoat. It is also referred to as the wear coat. It locks in the color flakes, provides the best wear and stain protection, and creates the glossy look and depth that these floors are known for.
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How much does garage floor epoxy cost?
The cost to epoxy your garage floor can vary greatly. It is determined by the type of concrete prep performed (etch or grind), possible repairs, quality of materials used, number of coats, and whether you hire a professional for installation or do it yourself.
The least expensive method for an epoxy floor is to apply it yourself.
Pricing can start as low as .27 cents per square foot. This would be for the single coat, low-budget, water-based epoxy coatings. Kits like this one from Rust-Oleum are an example. They are the least durable epoxy and not very glossy, but they are cheap in cost.
However, you can purchase a high-performance, commercial quality garage floor epoxy coating system in kit form for just over $1 per square foot. This would include an epoxy primer, high solids base epoxy color coat, color flakes, and a high-performance polyurethane clear coat.
This type of coating system in a kit will last 10-15 years or more. We highly recommend kits like this one here. It’s an excellent value for the money.
A good compromise for the budget would be a single coat of 100% solids epoxy. This company here offers a few choices of kits to fit your budget. You can also read our review.
The coatings that are easiest to apply are single-part polyurea. We did a full review of single-part polyurea here.
Don’t forget to factor in the cost for required supplies such as mixing buckets, paint rollers, cleaning supplies and etc. The advantage of the commercial quality kits is that many of these vendors include some of these supplies with their kits.
A professional installation typically starts at around $4.00 per square foot. This cost does vary and can depend on the competition in the area where you live. It will usually include a minimum of one epoxy color coat, color flakes, and a clear coat.
Cost can go up from there depending on the number of top coats required, how much color flake is applied in the base coat, and if more than one clear coat will be required. A typical 2-car garage is approximately 400ft² for reference.
Total time for a professional company to epoxy coat your garage floor is 2-3 days. You can usually park your car within 72 hours after it is finished.
The fast curing one-day polyurea polyaspartic systems start close to $6 per square foot and go up in cost from there. These are applied and finished in one day and can be driven on the next. Because of their fast cure rate, they should only be applied by professionals or those with much DIY coating experience.
Final thoughts
As we mentioned, an epoxy coating will completely transform the looks of your garage floor. It’s durable, easy to clean, highly stain resistant, and all while providing great looks at the same time.
There is one important point that we want to make. You genuinely get what you pay for when it comes to garage floor coatings. If want a budget product, you will get budget performance. If you spend a bit more, you will be rewarded with a much more durable coating.
In the long run, it will actually save you both time and money to purchase higher quality coating products – by far.
So, whether you are turning your garage into a man cave, a working shop for car repairs and projects, or just a place to park your cars, it’s hard to beat the benefits an epoxy garage floor coating system will provide.
Ashwini says
Hi, I just came across this site and the concept of epoxy coating for garages. It’s sounds good. I am looking for a change in flooring for the garage to use it as a dance/ workout studio. I read about anti skid coating that is available. I will have to look for a contractor to do this. How much does this cost approximately for a standard 2 car garage? Is it really that durable and maintenance free? I don’t have any tools or equipment in the garage just cars and some storage.
Thanks
Shea says
Hello Ashwini. Yes, it really is that durable and easy to keep clean. Pricing usually starts around $4 a square foot to have a quality system installed by a good contractor.
Michele says
Question: Does this epoxy floor coating have an “R” rating, does it provide any insulation qualities above a poured concrete floor- a direct application?
Shea says
Hello Michele. Epoxy, including most coatings, do not have an “R” rating. It neither holds or insulates heat.
Brian says
Hello,
I am considering using epoxy inside of my home. How difficult would it be to do the 2nd story of my house? In other words, does epoxy work well on other surfaces other than concrete?
Shea says
Hello Brian. The second story in most homes will be a wood sub floor. While epoxy will adhere to wood very well, you do have issues to contend with. The first is flexibility. Epoxy does not flex at all and can easily crack under weight if the sub floor flexes. This is where a polyurea coating may be a better solution as it has some flexibility to it.
The second issue is joints in the sub floor. You will need to fill these with the proper joint filler and then sand them flush. A flexible epoxy bridging primer will need to be applied to the entire floor after that and then the coating of your choice. While it can be done, it’s usually a more expensive proposition and the prep work required takes a lot more time.
Brent says
Can I do this to my floor in my sauna?
Shea says
You could Brent, but it’s not the most desirable coating for a sauna. You would need to use an anti-slip additive for sure which can be rough on bare feet.
Brent says
I just want it for looks but will definitely use cedar decking tiles for walking areas. Thanks.
Allan Lariviere says
I’m building a new garage this spring. It will be approx 700 sq ft. I’m also thinking of an acid stain. Two questions.
At what stage of construction would be a good time to acid stain the floor and
Can I then Epoxy the floor over the acid stain?
Shea says
Hi Allan. For most flooring it’s best to keep the floor covered until most construction and drywall is done. Then do the floor. Acid stain can look very nice, just make sure that your concrete guy didn’t use a cure and seal or other type of sealer to help the concrete cure or the acid stain will not react with the concrete. Once the floor is stained, rinsed, and dry, you can apply epoxy over it. However, since epoxy will amber, our suggestion would be to apply a good clear DIY polyurea coating instead. It will not amber like epoxy, it’s more abrasion resistant, and more chemical resistant. This is a good example here.
Anna says
Hi – we had this flooring applied by a profession company almost a year ago. The flooring is in our man cave which we use often. Well our floor seems to be having multiple areas that form blisters that pop and leak an oil type liquid. The fluid that comes out looks just like dirty car oil. There are also areas that almost boil up and leak out a clear fluid that smells like oil. Can you tell us what may have cause these issues? The company says it is from “the cleaner” we used which was just a mister clean mixed with water. The surface is also very rough in spots. We would appreciate any feedback you may have. I also have photos I could send to an email. Thanks for your help.
Shea says
Hello Anna. We’re sorry to hear about your problem. The cleaner you have used on the coating is fine. The problem is not from a bad coating either. Was the surface moisture tested by the company before installation? Is any part of your slab below grade? The reason we ask is what you appear to have is a moisture problem. The blisters you are experiencing is from water vapor under pressure. The slab is pushing moisture up to the surface and your coating is blocking it. The blisters most likely contain mineral rich smelly water. This can happen from localized minerals in the concrete carried up to the surface in water. It develops its own micro environment under the coating. This micro environment is what makes the water brown and smelly. The pressure eventually causes the coating to delaminate in the form of a blister and the moisture escapes. The brown smelly substance is not very common with blisters.
The proper moisture test would have determined if a moisture blocking epoxy primer should have been used to avoid the issue or reveal whether the concrete was suitable for a non-breathing coating at all.
Anna says
Thank you for the response. Now we are trying to figure out what to do about this problem. Do you have any advice on something to install over it so we don’t have these spots all over. Especially will small crawling/running children on it.
Shea says
Since you are having a moisture issue Anna you need something that will breath and not trap water vapor. You might want to look at interlocking tile. You can really customize the look of your room with them and they are available in both hard plastic and rubber like styles.
Toerag says
This sounds exactly like osmosis which fibreglass boats suffer from. Solvents or salts trapped under the epoxy are absorbing moisture up through the concrete by osmosis and causing the epoxy to blister. With a boat you have to blast off the gelcoat and wash the trapped solvents out with acetone and thoroughly dry the hull before applying a new gelcoat. I don’t think there’s much you can do for your floor if the concrete is damp, so the best thing to do is to prevent the concrete getting damp by lowering the ground levels outside or constructing french drains alongside the house. Only when your concrete is dry will the blistering stop, and now the floor is covered with impermeable epoxy this will take months if not years.
Scotty says
Toerag:
Excellent point. This can be an issue. The advent of liquid moisture barriers such as our Aqua-Dike take this issue out of play.
We use in low lying areas or if the customer wants extra insurance.
MC says
When applying the epoxy do you recommend taping off the expansion joints at garage perimeter (where slab meets stem walls) or simply painting with the rest of garage floor. Ours is a tar based product
Shea says
It you have a tar-based expansion joint then yes, tape those off.
Connie says
Could this be used as flooring on a room inside the house?
Shea says
Yes it can Connie. It’s popular being used as a clear over bare concrete or clear over acid stained concrete. Metallics are popular in the home as well.
Phyllis McClelland says
I would like to know if you can apply the epoxy finishes in a home garage that has been painted with oil base concrete paint??
Thanks
Phyllis
Shea says
Yes you can Phyllis. It requires grinding the concrete during the prep phase in order to remove the oil based paint and provide a good substrate for the epoxy to adhere to. Technically you can apply a water based epoxy to oil based concrete paint if you rough up the surface first. However, a coating is only as good as what it is adhered to. Since oil based paint can peel much easier than epoxy, the epoxy coating performance is limited by the properties of the oil based paint.
Phyllis McClelland says
Thanks much.
Phyllis
Mike Fox says
I am thinking about doing a 25 year old garage floor in good condition. It does have a couple of cracks however. What kind of affect will the cracks have on the quality of job I get? Will it cause future problems? The floor is also cracking away from the driveway just an inch or 2 . How would that area be treated?
Thanks for your time.
Mike
Shea says
Hello Mike. At 25 years old, the chance of your slab experiencing anymore cracking from settling and curing is low. Properly repaired, they should not be an issue at all. If you have cracks still growing, then there are other issues with the slab at work that should be solved first.
We’re not sure what you mean exactly about the floor cracking away from the driveway. Could you explain that a bit better?
Mike Monscour says
I’m having a new house built and would like to epoxy the garage floor (375 sq.ft.) myself. What kind of prep should I do to the new concrete?
Thank you
Mike in Estero Fl.
Shea says
Hello Mike. You will need to either grind or acid etch the surface of the concrete when you are ready to install the epoxy. Whether concrete is new or old, this is always a requirement and the most important step.
Mike in Estero says
Thanks Shea for your repsonse!
Mike in Estero says
What kind of acid would I use and are there any instructions on how to do it? Also how would you grind it?
Thank you very much
Mike in Estero
Shea says
Hello Mike. You can find how to acid etch here and how to grind a garage floor here.
Charles says
I’m prepping my old concrete floor to epoxy coat. I’ve ground it and will now also etch it. The question I have is about base trim. The garage I’m working on is in a basement and so has about 3/4 of the walls concrete. The transition from floor to wall is kind of ugly and in places a small gap. What I’m thinking about is using Harie Trim concrete trim to base the walls out and then epoxy coat the base trim. I think it will look much better than doing nothing or a rubber style base trim and because the trim is concrete water shouldn’t bother it. . Also if I do that it occurs to me that I can install the cabinets I have planned and base them as well which should protect them from any water or anything. Do you think this material would work well for this? What’s the best way to go up the wall say 4 to 6 inches? How do you put chips on it?
I meant to say HardiTrim. Also the cold air plenum (galvanized steel)for my furnace sits on the floor in the garage. How do I protect it from acid etching the floor?
Shea says
Hi Charles. There is no need to acid etch your floor if you have ground it. Grinding is better than acid etching 9 out of 10 times. You can use the Hardie Trim along the base of the wall, but it is not a good medium for the epoxy. It would need to be roughed up with 40 grit sandpaper first which is kind of hard to do with all the ridges and texture in it. You can however paint match the epoxy color with a good latex paint and paint the Hardie Trim that way without having to sand it. You just wouldn’t apply color flakes to it. This is a very common procedure that people do to paint the 4″ to 6″ high stem walls in a garage. It works great since you aren’t walking or driving on it. Since these concrete areas can be extremely rough, they suck up a lot of epoxy which can get expensive.
Another alternative is to repair these areas with an inexpensive concrete repair patch like Quikretes Vinyl Concrete Patch. You can usually pick up a 20 lb tub for $10. Mix it thick so it doesn’t slump on the wall and trowel it on smooth. Once it cures, you can either paint it as is or rough it up with some 40 grit sandpaper or a hand grinder in order to apply epoxy. If you elect to epoxy, do the base walls before the floor. The key with the color flakes is to stand back, grab a pinch or color flake, and then toss it at the fresh epoxy. It will stick. Just sweep up the excess before doing the floor.
Charles says
Hey thanks for the reply! Using base trim will fix some problems for me so I think it’s the best way to go. I like the look of the epoxy and chips on it best. You can get the Hardi trim in a smooth version so should just require sanding. What can you use to calk the floor to wall joint? Would some sort of wood work? Something pre-primed or pressure treated without incise marks? If I was to etch the floor how would you protect the metal on the furnace? Do you need to?
Shea says
You’re welcome Charles. If the Hardie Trim works well for you and they have a smooth version, then yes, sand it up and go for it! The floor to wall joint should be an actual expansion joint. A product like SikaFlex works well. If the joints are deep, you will want to use a backer rod that fits about 1/4 to 3/8 deep so it doesn’t take a lot of the sealant. If they are too narrow for a backer rod you can always use silica sand. Flexible joint fillers can’t be coated. If you elect to etch the floor as well, you will want to wrap the metal in plastic to protect it. One of the draw backs to acid etching is even the vapor from the fumes can have a caustic effect on metal. If you can wrap it in plastic sheeting and duct tape it you should be good.
charles says
Thanks again Shea!
I wanted to etch the floor as I wasn’t sure the grinding went as well as it should have. I rented from Home Depot what I call a buffer with the concrete prep wheel. They claim it’s an alternative to diamond grinding. Not sure I agree. I went over the floor 3 times and it seemed to work fairly well until I cleaned the floor and it still had dark spots. Since etching the floor it now looks like it should. I was very careful with it because of the metal and I had to run the rinse water out onto a sealed driveway. I’ve ordered the epoxy and will install it when it arrives. Thanks for the help!
Jason says
An epoxy floor contractor in my area is beating the competition in price substantially. However, they have rave reviews and many references. Their process seems in line with other contractors; diamond grinding, crack filling, epoxy coat, broadcast system, and clear. I’m wondering how they are beating most prices by nearly 50%. The epoxy product they use is PPG Megaseal. Other than the manufacturer website, I have not been able to find much info on Megaseal. Do you have experience with or knowledge of this product? I wondering if the low pricing could be due to inferior product…
Shea says
Hi Jason. Ask what the solids content is of the epoxy they use. You can also ask to see a TDS sheet of each product. You can compare that to the other contractors if you like. Also, what kind of clear is it, what is the dry film thickness, and how many coats? Ask what the overall dry film thickness is of the floor and compare that with the other contractors. It’s not unusual for a contractor that does good work and high volumes to have lower prices, but not 50% lower. They have to be saving money somewhere. PPG makes some good product, but if they are using a lower solids epoxy and/or do an epoxy clear or less coats of a polyurethane or polyurea clear, then that is where they are cutting corners.
Mark Adams says
Hi. I recently had an interior french drain installed in my basement. This system also includes a drain at the foot of the door to catch any water that might come through the bottom of the door. Now i’m exploring flooring options and wanted to know if epoxy flooring would be a good option? There’s a possibility that water might still get into the basement and if that were to happen, would the epoxy hold up against water. Also, i read an earlier post where some mentioned that their epoxy coating was bubbling up. While I don’t believe much water comes through the ground, there are cracks in my basement floor and within the cracks is a reminiscence of calcium deposits. If I did go the epoxy route would I have the same bubbling up issue?
Shea says
Hello Mark. When dealing with basements, it’s very important to do a proper moisture test before applying any type of coating. The best time to test is after a rain storm if possible. The hydrostatic pressure from moisture vapor transmission in a basement can cause the strongest of coatings to delaminate, sometimes taking chunks of concrete with it. Water on top of epoxy has no effect. The coating acts as a sealer and the water will just sit on the surface until it’s cleaned up.
wolfman says
#1
Is such a floor flammable?
If I drop anything burning or very hot on concrete nothing can happen; is there any risk on an epoxy coated garage floor?
#2
Will there be a huge amount of fumes from the chemicals around in my garage during or after installation.
Shea says
Hi Wolfman. No, epoxy is not flammable, but it you weld close to it or use cutting torches that drop hot slag on it you will create burn marks. Just like you would with bare concrete. In terms of fumes, it depends on the product. Water based epoxy and high solids to 100% solids epoxy does not produce many fumes. Solvent based epoxy and top coats such as polyurethane can. A high solids polyurea polyspartic is low in VOC’s however. Most of the smell dissipates within 24 hours, but some may linger for a few days while it cures.
Scotty says
Not enough material on the floor to maintain combustion.
We recently did a test for a very careful customer using a blow-torch with our new polyurea, Nohr-S. Again, not enough material on the floor to support combustion. Great question though!!
Vivek Mishra says
Hi,
I have a question. My current garage has an epoxy coating. The house is about 20 yrs old. I suspect that the garage paint is also that old. I want a new coat on it. Do I have to etch it or can I directly apply the epoxy paint to it ?
Thanks
Viv
Shea says
Hi Vivek. Do you have an epoxy coating or paint? There is a big difference between the two. Here is an article on how to apply a new coat to an older floor.
JMDoherty says
Will this epoxy flooring cover oil stains on the concrete?
Thank you!
Shea says
No, you need to clean up the oil stains first. If you have exceptionally oily concrete there are special oil stop epoxy primers that can be used after the floor has been prepped properly. They allow for better adhesion to the concrete where oil may be an issue.
Kevin says
Please Help! I had a friend epoxy my garage floor using a 2 part process base coat then clear coat. This is the result attached below the clear coat is hard and cured like this? I have no clue what happened what is the best way to go about fixing this? Do I need to re-epoxy the entire floor? Can I get away with sanding and just re-clearing? Any input is much appreciated. Does anyone know what could have caused this to happen?
http://imageshack.com/a/img921/4879/rMSIpA.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/9669/V1vB7z.jpg
Shea says
What color was the base coat and what brand and type products were used? Are those air bubbles we see in it as well? It’s hard to tell from the angle of the pictures.
Ty says
I am buying a brand new home with a 700 sq ft garage. The concrete floor in the garage is unsealed and couple of months old. Clean and no stains or imperfections.
What prep work do I need to do to the floor before applying 100% solid epoxy? I don’t want to acid etch… and not to excited about grinding. Can I just rough it with a pole sander and 100 grit sand paper? Then sweep it and leaf blow it? I won’t have time to let the floor dry, so I don’t want to use any water… Thoughts?
How much epoxy would be required, including top clear coat. How many lbs of flakes, (I like lots of flake)? What about Shark Grip?
Shea says
Hello Ty. Of all concrete surfaces, none needs acid etching or grinding more than a new one. The finishing of the concrete smooths out the surface and effectively closes up many of the pores that epoxy needs to penetrate in order to form a good mechanical bond – especially with much thicker 100% solids epoxy. Trying to profile concrete properly with a pole sander is ineffective. Proper preparation of the concrete surface is the most important part of a successful coating. The leading cause to epoxy coating failures are poor concrete surface prep. If the proper concrete prep does not appeal to you, then you may want to look at a different type of coating such as Rust Bullet.
You will need approximately 4 gals. of 100% solids epoxy to cover 700 square feet. A medium to heavy coverage of flakes would require 10-12 lbs of flakes, and the amount of clear coat depends whether you want to use polyurethane or polyurea. A heavy flaked floor usually requires at least 2 coats of polyurethane and 1 coat of polyurea. Approximately 12 ounces of an anti-slip aggregate can be applied to the final top coat.
Felix says
Two questions for you as I am getting ready to do my garage floor and want your expert opinion. What type of roller should I use when applying the 2 part epoxy and what type of roller should I use when applying the urethane top coat? More specifically what nap but if you have a brand you recommend that would be helpful.
How much time should I wait if I decide to put a 2nd coat of epoxy and how much time should I wait if I put a second coat of the urethane top coat. Not sure how much flakes I am going to put down and I hear if you do go heavy you need 2 coats of the top coat but what do you think. I am going to use a fertilizer spreader to broadcast the flakes as this worked well for me the last time I did my garage.
NOTE: I did my garage around 8-9 years ago and you gave me great insight on how to prep it…floor maintainer with a 100 grit sanding screen then go over with denatured alcohol on a rag.
For my project I am using the Supercoat product 2 part epoxy and their 2 component waterborne urethane top coat.
Thank you very much.
Shea says
Hello Felix. We recommend that you read our article on how to apply a garage floor coating. It covers most of the questions that you have asked, including the type of rollers to use. We do recommend checking the manufacture’s instructions first, however, regarding nap thickness, mixing, and application as our instructions are general in nature. You will need two coats of the polyurethane for a heavy flaked floor and most likely three coats if you go for flakes to full refusal.
Jeni Hile says
I am having a professional painter install my epoxy paint to my garage floor. What guarantee should I expect? I heard its 2 to 3 years. Also, can I use a rubber mat on it in the winter to help shield flooring from salt and brine?
Shea says
Hello Jeni. We can’t tell you what to expect without knowing the quality of the product that is being installed. Professional coating aren’t installed by painters though. They are installed by floor coating contractors who specialize only in coating concrete. Generally a written contract is provided before the job starts that states all warranties. If a painter is installing it and he referred to it as epoxy paint, then our guess is not to expect much. A true epoxy coating does not need protection from salt and brine. They are developed to protect the concrete exactly from such things so that you don’t need additional protection. However, good epoxy or not, you should be able to put down a mat without worries.
Scuba says
Hi, multiple questions… first I am about to pour concrete next week in my personal shop( 960ft/sq.), radiant floor heat, northern Ohio, automotive restoration hobbyist, welding, grinding, painting, etc. I’ve heard about “broom finish” for a good prep for epoxies,(allows for proper adhesion without etching/further prepping) any truth to that? Also any recommendations for before/during/post pour? What type of product would serve my situation best for wear tear and abuse?
Shea says
Hello Scuba. There is no truth in the myth to do a broom finish as prep for epoxy. In fact, it actually can create more work. New concrete requires proper prep just as much if not more than old concrete does. The pores of the concrete need to be opened up in order for the epoxy to penetrate properly and gain a proper mechanical bond. If that is not done, the epoxy can only adhere well to the weak ridges of broomed concrete and will delaminate under stress. We suggest a troweled finish for a few reasons. If a broomed finish is only acid etched, it requires multiple applications of a high solids epoxy to fill the valleys of the ridges in order to get a smooth finish. A broomed finish also requires more grinding to effectively remove those ridges. A standard hand troweled finish is not going to require as much grinding or as much epoxy if you acid etch only.
If you want a good quality coating as an automotive restoration hobbyist, we recommend an epoxy primer, high solids base color coat, and a top clear coat of high performance polyurethane or polyurea. This creates a nice high build coating and the clear coat will stand up well to acids, brake fluid, and other automotive chemicals without damage. Just remember that you need to the slab to cure for at least 30 days before application.
Matt says
Do you have a list of professionals by state that can be used? I am having a new house built and want this. I know “u coat it” had a product years ago. Not sure I want to take on myself.
Thanks
Shea says
No we don’t Matt, but we do have an article on how to choose a garage floor coating contractor which you can read here.
kakamo-ALGERIA says
i am astonished about the way of your answers ..i have had a three days formation in epoxy flooring : simple – metallic and 3d ….all you have mentioned is true and correct and i totally confirm it …you are even adding some more knowledge to it and some extra tricks …you are so appreciated …i am pleased to see that someone is much helpful .
thank you so much from ALGERIA .
Shea says
You are welcome Kakamo.
Pat says
Good day!
Great information you are giving!
I have a 900 sq/ft new garage and would like to know my options that are available. I do car repairs, so there will be some oil and sparks from torches that the floor will be exposed to. I would also like a floor with good traction and isn’t completely smooth. What do you recommend?
Thank you!
Shea says
Hello Pat. You asked this question in the epoxy section, so we are assuming your question is about what type of epoxy system would work best. Since it will be a working garage, we would recommend a system with an epoxy primer coating first, followed by a high solids or 100% solids epoxy based coat, and a clear top coat or two of either high performance polyurethane or polyurea. The epoxy provides for a high build and the top coat options provide the best chemical and abrasion resistance. Oil and other fluids, including brake fluid, will not harm the coating. Sparks from torches can create burn marks on the coating however if the cutting is done close to the floor. For traction, you would want to apply an anti-slip additive to the final coat to provide grip for when things get wet.