One of the toughest and most durable finishes that you can apply to a garage floor today is an epoxy coating. Not only does it protect your garage floor, it can instantly transform your boring or ugly concrete into a professional-looking floor of beauty and function.
And since the garage has become more than just a place where you park the car, the benefits of garage floor epoxy have made it one of the most popular garage flooring options today.
In fact, it is commonly used for both residential and commercial applications. Not only does it provide protection from the elements, but it will also give your garage or workshop floor that showroom shine that says “look at me”!
Depending on which type of garage floor coating system you choose, you can select from a variety of understated colors and hues. Other options are custom colors, metallics, and blends of color flakes that match your style, home, or even your favorite sports team.
So, let’s briefly examine what an epoxy coating really is. We will discuss what the benefits are, learn how it’s applied, and some of the costs involved.
Additionally, we will provide excellent examples of where you can purchase quality coatings and DIY coating kits that we have reviewed and can recommend.
What is garage floor epoxy?
Epoxy flooring is a thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating to concrete. It is created when you mix one-part colored or clear epoxide resin with one part polyamine hardener. Hence, a 2-part coating.
When the two parts are mixed, the hardener acts as a catalyst. This creates a chemical reaction upon contact and begins the exothermic curing process. This curing process forms polymer structures that are closely cross-linked, giving epoxy its superior strength and durability.
The end result is a thick and highly durable coating that bonds tenaciously to a properly prepared concrete surface.
Along with the colored epoxy coating, you also have the option of applying decorative color flakes and a high-performance clear coat. The clear coat protects the color flakes and color coat.
This combination of coatings is known as a garage floor coating system. Commercial quality systems can last for ten to twenty years on a garage floor.
In addition, if you don’t want the traditional epoxy look, there is the option of a metallic epoxy coating.
These finishes are extremely glossy and known for their wild-looking flowing rivers of metallic color. You can even create 3-D moon-like craters if you desire.
Though metallic epoxy can look absolutely stunning for a garage, it’s not for everyone. The darker colors and extreme gloss will show every spec of debris, dust, dusty footprints, and dirty tire tracks. It’s worse when the sun shines on it.
This is why the lighter grays, tans, and color flakes are so popular. They do a good job of not showing dust and the color flakes can camouflage bits of debris and other dirt.
Are there other coatings besides epoxy?
Epoxy is not the only type of decorative coating for a garage. It just happens to be the most well-known due to the many years that it has been available.
Commercial quality, single-part DIY polyurea coating systems are fast becoming a favorite for the DIY installer. These coatings are very durable and easier to apply than epoxy.
What’s more, one-day polyurea polyaspartic coating systems are now offered by commercial installers. These are very durable coatings that cure extremely fast. The fast cure allows them to apply a complete system in just one day.
Is Epoxy and Paint for a garage floor the same thing?
This is where marketing to the consumer by national brands has caused confusion and angst. An epoxy floor coating is not paint. Big retail companies started mixing the terms when they discovered people were asking for paint when they meant epoxy.
Most paints for garage floors are latex acrylic and have a matte to satin finish. They are the least durable of decorative options.
Some may have a very small percentage of epoxy resin added to increase durability, but these are still a latex acrylic and not a coating. These are known as epoxy paints or 1-part epoxy paint.
In addition, garage floor paint and 1-part epoxy paint do not seal the garage floor as an epoxy coating does. They are designed as a single coat application. That means you apply just the paint and that’s it.
Lastly, paint is not intended for clear topcoats. Nor are they compatible with most clear coats. Many people have become frustrated to learn this AFTER they applied a garage floor paint.
Read – Don’t Fall for These Phony “Best Epoxy” Reviews!
Benefits of a garage floor epoxy coating
So, what makes an epoxy coating one of the best finishes for your garage floor? Besides looking nice, the hard and thick coating that you get from epoxy creates a decorative surface that is very durable and easy to keep clean.
It’s resistant to impacts, chipping, chemicals, stains, and surface abrasion. You don’t have to panic about damaging or staining the surface if you spill oil on it or a bicycle falls over.
The thicker coatings also do a great job of covering over minor imperfections such as small spider cracks and flaws in the concrete.
In addition, epoxy is a concrete sealer. This means that it will seal out moisture at the surface as well. This is a great benefit for people who live in snowy climates that deal with road salts and deicing fluids that can damage concrete.
Furthermore, epoxy floor coatings are easy to clean. A mild cleaning solution and water are all that are required. Dirt and debris can be collected with a dust mop or soft broom when the floor is dry.
Epoxy coatings receive high reviews from home mechanics and hobbyists as well. Since it is both chemical and stain resistant, oil, brake fluids, anti-freeze, gasoline, and other caustic car chemicals can easily be wiped up without worry – even if it sits for a while. And because epoxy is a topical sealer, it is also anti-dusting.
Lastly, the high gloss and lighter colors of epoxy reflect overhead and natural light. This results in a brighter work environment that makes more efficient use of the light available.
How well do garage floor coatings stand up to heavy rolling tool boxes, floor jacks, and jack stands? Quite well actually!
As long as any rolling steel wheels are not roughly scarred up or slid across the floor without care, they will not damage or scratch most coatings. This goes for jack stands as well.
Review the different epoxy coating options by Concrete Network
Because the thicker, multiple coat epoxy systems wear so well, warranties of up to 15 years or more for installation by professional installers is becoming common. Many manufacturers even warranty the materials against defects for the life of the floor.
Visit our garage flooring gallery to view more epoxy coated garage floors.
Are garage floor coatings slippery?
Most floor coatings are not slippery when they are dry. However, epoxy and other coatings can become slippery when wet. Typically, the more gloss a coating has, the more slippery it can be when wet.
A heavy application of color flakes can add texture to a coating and make it slightly less slippery, but it is not a substitute for an anti-slip surface. If wet grip or non-slip is a concern, then an anti-slip media should be mixed into the final coat.
Are there drawbacks to an epoxy coating?
As tough as this type of garage floor covering can be, it’s not resistant to everything.
Welding is hard on epoxy and other floor coatings. It can create burn marks from the hot slag that falls on it. In fact, metal fabricating in general can be tough on floor coatings. This is due to the tendency for heavy and sharp objects to get dragged across the surface.
If you are interested in a more utilitarian type of coating that makes cleanup easier, yet resists hot slag and grinding sparks better, then we suggest looking into this coating that we reviewed.
Epoxy and other coatings are not a good choice for garage floors that have moisture issues from below the slab. The rate of moisture vapor transmission from underneath the slab can cause coatings to delaminate if it is too high.
In addition, there is always the concern about hot tire pick up for epoxy. This is a problem that is more closely associated with the home improvement store DIY epoxy paint kits. These are usually water-based coatings that are approximately 50% solids and 3 mils or less thick.
Hot tires can cause these coatings to soften. As the tires begin to cool, they contract ever so slightly, and the tire tread grabs and pulls at the surface of the thinner coating.
This process will actually cause the epoxy to delaminate as the tire pulls it up off the floor.
As a comparison, a 90% – 100% solids epoxy cures to a minimum of 9 mils dry film thickness. Many can be applied much thicker depending on the coverage rate used.
These thicker coatings are considered commercial quality. They are installed professionally or can be purchased from concrete coating vendors online and be applied DIY instead.
Read – Why Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield and similar epoxy paint kits get bad reviews.
Lastly, epoxy is not U.V. stable. It can develop a yellow tint over the years from exposure to direct sunlight. The coating industry refers to this as ambering. Low-quality epoxy can amber within months, while high quality epoxy may take years.
One way to prevent this from happening is to install an epoxy floor system with full color flakes and a high-performance clear coat. Both color flakes and clear topcoats such as polyurea or polyurethane are U.V. stable and will not amber.
How garage floor epoxy is applied
Epoxy floor coatings can be professionally installed or you can do it yourself. A DIY installation can save you quite a bit of money in labor costs. It’s not that difficult as long as you make yourself familiar with all the steps required and plan accordingly.
The first step is proper preparation of the concrete. This is critical and the most important step for a successful coating. The process will involve either floor grinding or acid etching of the surface in order to create the necessary concrete profile.
Repairing concrete cracks or other damage at this time is highly recommended if you want an unblemished look.
High quality epoxy floor systems involve multiple coats to insure a very tough and resistant coating that will last for years.
Depending on the system being applied, an epoxy primer may be applied first.
The primer penetrates and binds to the concrete to provide the best adhesion for the subsequent thick coating layers. Some primers will also act as a moisture vapor barrier. This is for concrete floors that are susceptible to moisture vapor that moves up from the soil through the concrete to the surface.
The next coat is the thick color epoxy base coat. Sometimes referred to as the build coat, This may be applied without a primer depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Next are the optional colored acrylic paint chips. The color coat is what will receive the colored flakes and are applied while the color coat is still freshly wet.
Full color flake coatings are a popular option. This is when the color flakes completely cover the base epoxy coat. This option allows for custom blends of flake colors to provide any color flooring you want. Furthermore, it provides additional thickness and durability to the coating.
The final coat/s is the clear topcoat. It is also referred to as the wear coat. It locks in the color flakes, provides the best wear and stain protection, and creates the glossy look and depth that these floors are known for.
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How much does garage floor epoxy cost?
The cost to epoxy your garage floor can vary greatly. It is determined by the type of concrete prep performed (etch or grind), possible repairs, quality of materials used, number of coats, and whether you hire a professional for installation or do it yourself.
The least expensive method for an epoxy floor is to apply it yourself.
Pricing can start as low as .27 cents per square foot. This would be for the single coat, low-budget, water-based epoxy coatings. Kits like this one from Rust-Oleum are an example. They are the least durable epoxy and not very glossy, but they are cheap in cost.
However, you can purchase a high-performance, commercial quality garage floor epoxy coating system in kit form for just over $1 per square foot. This would include an epoxy primer, high solids base epoxy color coat, color flakes, and a high-performance polyurethane clear coat.
This type of coating system in a kit will last 10-15 years or more. We highly recommend kits like this one here. It’s an excellent value for the money.
A good compromise for the budget would be a single coat of 100% solids epoxy. This company here offers a few choices of kits to fit your budget. You can also read our review.
The coatings that are easiest to apply are single-part polyurea. We did a full review of single-part polyurea here.
Don’t forget to factor in the cost for required supplies such as mixing buckets, paint rollers, cleaning supplies and etc. The advantage of the commercial quality kits is that many of these vendors include some of these supplies with their kits.
A professional installation typically starts at around $4.00 per square foot. This cost does vary and can depend on the competition in the area where you live. It will usually include a minimum of one epoxy color coat, color flakes, and a clear coat.
Cost can go up from there depending on the number of top coats required, how much color flake is applied in the base coat, and if more than one clear coat will be required. A typical 2-car garage is approximately 400ft² for reference.
Total time for a professional company to epoxy coat your garage floor is 2-3 days. You can usually park your car within 72 hours after it is finished.
The fast curing one-day polyurea polyaspartic systems start close to $6 per square foot and go up in cost from there. These are applied and finished in one day and can be driven on the next. Because of their fast cure rate, they should only be applied by professionals or those with much DIY coating experience.
Final thoughts
As we mentioned, an epoxy coating will completely transform the looks of your garage floor. It’s durable, easy to clean, highly stain resistant, and all while providing great looks at the same time.
There is one important point that we want to make. You genuinely get what you pay for when it comes to garage floor coatings. If want a budget product, you will get budget performance. If you spend a bit more, you will be rewarded with a much more durable coating.
In the long run, it will actually save you both time and money to purchase higher quality coating products – by far.
So, whether you are turning your garage into a man cave, a working shop for car repairs and projects, or just a place to park your cars, it’s hard to beat the benefits an epoxy garage floor coating system will provide.
julie says
How long must concrete be poured prior to applying this surface?
Shea says
Hello Julie. New concrete needs to cure for a minimum of 30 days before applying a coating.
Roberto says
All concrete should be cured for at least 28 days as that is the standard time in the industry to do so. In addition if you are having it poured, definitely think about installing a vapor barrier under your slab or even integrally to make your epoxy garage floor last.
Travis says
I have air bubbles in the top coat sealer. The installer said to use a broom it will knock them down and the sealer is not compromised. Is this correct?
Shea says
Hello Travis. Bubbles in a top coat is an installation error. In most cases nothing can be done to fix them other than sand the bubbles out after it cures and recoat. A broom may knock down a few bubbles immediately after it has been rolled while the coating is still fluid, but it won’t produce satisfactory results.
Travis says
Thank you for your response. Should the entire floor be recoated or just the sanded spots? Do have recommendations of how to convince contractor knocking the bubbles down is not the solution?
Shea says
You would need to recoat the entire surface Travis. Coatings do not blend well like paint on a wall. It would be very obvious and stand out where you applied a new coat to certain areas of the floor. The entire surface would need to be deglossed by roughing it up with 100 grit sandpaper before recoating. The areas with bubbles may need 80 grit in order to sand them down. Again, knocking down bubbles can only be attempted during the application process. It can’t be done once the coating has started to cure. They are induced in top coats by poor mixing and/or rolling techniques. We are guessing that the contractor does not specialize in floor coatings only and is more of a general contractor? If so, this explains their lack of knowledge regarding how to treat bubbles. Extremely thick coatings for commercial use require a porcupine roller to prevent bubbles, but it doesn’t sound like you are dealing with such a coating.
Aki says
Hello, I put an epoxy coat in my basement and didn’t see small crack, which is placed in the center and is quite visible, so, can I repair it without putting another coat over all basement, but just this spot?
Shea says
Hello Aki. You can repair the crack and apply epoxy over that area, but it will stand out and be obvious unless you recoat the entire floor. Epoxy coatings, due to their thickness, do not blend in like paint on a wall.
Laura says
Is it possible to use epoxy in a basement?
Shea says
As long as you don’t have moisture issues Laura, you can do an epoxy coating in a basement. We suggest reading how to moisture test to get a better idea if your basement is suited or not for epoxy.
steph brocoum says
hi, can I use an epoxy coating on an asphalt garage floor? if not, what type of coating or paint would you recommend?
Shea says
No, epoxy cannot be used on asphalt. Asphalt is a petroleum product and can’t be coated.
Leah says
I have a type of vinyl flooring in our shop office and want to be able to cover it. Are there certain surfaces that won’t work?
Shea says
Epoxy is not the best choice Leah. While it can be done, it can be more expensive due to the fact that it will require a few coats of commercial quality 100% solids to fill all the voids and create a smooth finish. Most manufactures don’t warranty for installation over vinyl either. Epoxy really is best for concrete and some wood surfaces.
Rob Larsen says
I moved into a new home 8 years ago where the garage floor had already been coated with epoxy. There are a few small isolated spots where the epoxy had disappeared over the years. I was generally pleased with the appearance of the floor with that exception. However, when the floor was wet, it was very slippery.
I just had a tornado shelter installed in the garage,, and that process left quite a few dings/scratches, as well as some new concrete. Can a new coating be applied over this old epoxy and the new concrete when it cures? I understand that there is also an additive which can reduce the slipperiness.
Shea says
The new concrete will need to cure for 28 days before you can apply a coating Rob. You will need to prep the new concrete by etching or grinding. As long as the old epoxy is adhered well, you can sand it rough with 100 grit sandpaper to provide mechanical bite for a new coating. We have an article on anti-slip additives which you can read here. Just be sure to use on the final coat.
Ed says
I just wanted to say thank you for keeping such a great site. I bet I spent 30-40 hours reading!
I took advantage of the 3-day weekend and put a polyaspartic coating on my 17 year old floors. Full blog post is here (https://sylvia1967blog.wordpress.com/2017/05/30/may-29th-2017/), but most of the post is not about the actual epoxy, so scroll down if you want to see the good and the bad of the results.
I used 4.5 gallons from EpoxyMaster (their customer service is AWESOME!), was just enough quantity-wise to cover, but temperatures were 75-78 degrees at 7:00AM so time was my biggest problem not coverage. The epoxy did coat vertical surfaces but not thick like the flat surface, so some paint drips from the walls show through. Overall I am extremely happy for my DIY job, a few problems that a pro could have missed or avoided, but I saved $3,000-$4,000 so all is good!
Shea says
Great job on the floor Ed! We left the link in your comment so people can see all your images and how you tackled your project. Yes, their customer service is very good. For those interested, we have an article about EpoxyMaster which you can read here.
Jim Eaton says
I have applied a one-coat, high solid epoxy in grey to a freshly poured garage. However, I have splotches of coloring that I would like to re-coat with a second coat of the epoxy. Is there any issues or concerns? Should I rough sand?
Thanks very much.
Shea says
Hi Jim. I think we just answered your question about polyurethane as well. If it’s been less than 24 hours you can apply another coat without prep. However, if you are outside the 24 hour window, it will require deglossing the surface by roughing it up with 100-125 grit sandpaper before applying a second coat. We suggest contacting the manufacturer or reading the technical data sheets to confirm your recoat times.
John Ira Clemens says
Technique question. For the final clear top-coat how do I avoid getting stripes in the application? One garage will need re-doing because of rough/smooth striping. My guess is uneven pressure was applied.
Shea says
Hello John. It’s important to backroll the clear coat at 90 degrees from the direction of application. Don’t add additional pressure to the roller to squeeze out more coating either.
Paul says
I am looking to finish my garage floor with the best possible coating. My floor has already been painted with some type of paint. I have some spots where the paint is flaking off. How much of the paint do I have to remove before applying anything new? I want something that will last for years
Shea says
Hello Paul. If you want to install a good quality commercial coating, then you need to remove all the existing paint on the floor. Grinding the concrete is the best method and it will prep your floor for the coating at the same time. There are many great coating systems that you can install – none of which you find at a home improvement center. Most are purchased from garage flooring vendors online. Roll On Rock is and example, Nohr-s is another, and so is EpoxyMaster. In fact, there are many more. Garage Flooring LLC has a good system as well that is user friendly.
Paul says
I was kinda hoping I wouldn’t have to remove paint but it makes sense. What is your favorite covering at this time? I read your article on Rust Bucket. I think that was the name. I dont want to go back and lose my place at this time. I want something to stick and last for years. I am in south Florida where it is hot. I don’t know if that means anything. How hard is it to grind the floor? Can I rent a machine? thanx
Paul
Shea says
If you are located in Florida Paul, we recommend giving Scotty from Legacy Industrial a call. They are located in Florida and are very familiar with what works best for your area. He works well with the DIY crowd. Their Nohr-S system and high solids epoxy systems are fantastic. We have an article on grinding here.
Alisa says
I wondered if this product would be useful to use for a concrete front porch on a 1918 craftsman bungalow. I worry about sun exposure, and moisture issues, since it is more open to the elements. What do you think?
Shea says
No, coatings such as these are not a good choice for the very reasons you specified Alisa. However, you could always apply a good acrylic sealer like this one here. Acrylics breathe and can generally handle moisture issues. Some can be tinted or you could always stain the concrete first and then apply the acrylic. If the porch gets wet, it’s a good idea to add an anti-slip additive as well.
Bill Weber says
Hello, I am adding a new garage onto our house and want to epoxy coat both old and new once it is done. What product do you recommend to fill the cracks in the old garage floor (some large and small cracks)? What is the best method to prepare the old floor (sand, sand blast, acid wash…?) What do I need to do to the new floor (after 30 days wait time)? I understand that preparation is the key and want to do it right!
Thanks,
Bill
Shea says
Hello Bill. Yes, you need to wait a minimum of 30 days for new concrete to cure before applying a coating. We have articles about garage floor repair here, which include material recommendations. Proper prep for concrete is the same whether it’s new concrete or old. You need to acid etch at a minimum. Grinding is better if you are able. We have an article about the differences here. This article here explains how to acid etch and this article here explains how to grind a garage floor.
Bear says
This is a very helpful article. Thank you!
Do you have any recommendations for people in the Midwest where we have often four very distinct seasons? Also, if you have any recommended products or installers in the Kansas City area, I’d love to hear them. Thanks.
Shea says
Hello Bear. Commercial quality products are highly recommended. We have some great sponsors on the right sidebar of our website that carry very good materials. Stay away from the DIY epoxy kits that you can typically find in home improvement centers as they will not last. If you are interested in hiring someone to do the work for you, try Amazing Garage Floors in the Kansas City area.
Bryan Creagan says
Great site! I’m learning so much from the articles here but I do have a question for you that I don’t think has been covered here.
My double garage floor is 20 years old but in great shape and responds very well to etching which is the way I’m thinking of going. However, the floor was poured in 4 segments each 10 x 10 feet and between segments, there is a rubber like expansion joint that sits about an 1/8″ below the nominal surface. At the intersection of the four panels is a 12″ x 12″ drain that is also surrounded by the rubber material.
How do I epoxy this floor? Do I do it in 4 segments? How do I protect the expansion joint?
By the way I’m in Ontario Canada so it does get cold here.
Shea says
Hello Bryan. What you want to do is run duct tape on the contraction joint seals and drain cover before you apply your coating. You may want to do it before you etch as well in order to protect the seals from possible damage from the acid etch. You will want to pull the tape up 15 to 30 minutes after applying the coating. If you don’t, it coating will harden too much and you will have to cut it away before it becomes too hard. Applying in sections works just fine and is the preferred method for most people since it allows go at a more manageable pace.
Lynn says
I have some fairly deep cracks in my garage floor. How can I repair or minimize/hide the look of these cracks
Shea says
You can find most of the information you need about crack repair here, Lynn.
Anthony says
Hello, I am in the process of redoing my garage floor. I have power washed all the old paint off and am going to put some self leveling cement down. Do i still need to wait the 30 days to put the epoxy down? Thanks
Shea says
No, Anthony, it should range from 12 hours to 3 days depending on the type of product you use. The technical data sheets for the product should tell you how long you have to wait. Just make sure you are not using a self-leveling underlayment that is used for tile, carpet, wood, linoleum and etc.
Marion Clark says
Hi,
I’m plannng to have our garage floor coated with epoxy in the very near future.
It as several storage cupboards that will need to be moved. We are elderly and would need help – also they would need to be moved up one low step into the house.
However, we are wondering whether half the floor could be done with the fast drying epoxy one day and the other half of the floor done two days later in which would just mean that that the cupboards could be moved to one side and then the other side while the job is completed.
Please could you let us have your thoughts about this idea.
Thank you.
Shea says
Hi Marion. We recommend discussing this with the floor coating company you plan to hire. Most of of your fast cure garage floor coatings are polyaspartic polyurea. They can be completed in one day with the ability to move most items in that same day and be able to park in the garage the next. The would most like be able to do that for you. Some companies even offer the option of moving your items into a locked trailer or truck overnight which they park on the premises.
In terms of doing one half of the floor at a time, if you have a contraction joint that divides the garage in half then it can be used as a natural border to do that. However, if you don’t have any joints in the concrete you cannot do one half at a time. The reason is that coatings to not blend in on top of each other like paint does. You will have very noticeable roller marks where the second half is applied over the edges of the other half. It is not very attractive at all.
shatru says
hi
thanking to your support.i am installing epoxy to wood. in top coat i need to use grit sandpaper for polish purpose. which type of grit sandpaper is best for me. can u suggest grit sandpaper number.and how to clean it after gritting.
Shea says
Hello Shatru. You can’t polish epoxy or any concrete coating for that matter. If you use sandpaper on it, no matter how fine the grit, it will cloud up the surface and dull the finish.
Suresh Kumar Ramasamy says
Hello,
My garage had the epoxy done using Rustoleum RockSolid by a contractor. He did a good job but painted the strip between my garage door and the asphalt driveway even though I mentioned him that I wanted it to be done only inside the garage. I live in Chicago and with the extreme weathers should I take any extra precaution to maintain this exposed area to extend the life of the epoxy?
I will make sure not to use my snow thrower or shovel in that area but wanted expert advice to maintain the investment for few years.
Thank You.
Shea says
Hello Suresh. There isn’t much more you can do to maintain it. Cosmetically it will develop a light yellow tint from being exposed to U.V. light, but it won’t affect anything else. The only concern would be moisture getting into the concrete under the coating where it terminates with the asphalt. We would recommend sealing the joint between the asphalt and concrete with SikaFlex if it is not sealed already.
Suresh Kumar Ramasamy says
Thank You Shea. I have not sealed yet. I am planning to fill the contraction joints inside the garage with backer rod and sikaflex polyurethane. Could I use the same to fill the joint between asphalt & concrete?
Thanks,
Suresh
Shea says
Yes you can, Suresh.
Okem says
I live in Austin Texas and just bought a new house in Jan 2017 and am trying to decide between applying Epoxy vs the polyaspartic coating I’ve heard about.
The company who does epoxy claims it’s the best thing on the market. Another company who came by swear by the polyaspartic claiming it’s 3 times more durable than epoxy. It’s clearly more expensive, but I want to know if it’s worth it? Which is truly more durable and will last longer? I believe both companies are offering lifetime warranties.
Thanks.
Shea says
Hello Okem. You are asking good questions. Most quality epoxy systems installed by reputable contractors will have a minimum of three coats. A primer coat, a high solids base color coat (color flakes optional), and then a coat (sometimes two) of clear polyurethane or polyurea. This type of system is just as good (sometimes better) than a polyaspartic coating. Most polyurea polyaspartic coatings are only two coats. The base color coat (color flakes optional) and then the clear coat. The abrasion, chemical, and scratch resistance of polyaspartics is very good and similar to polyurethane and polyurea. The main difference between the two flooring systems is thickness. A quality epoxy flooring system can be almost twice as thick as a polyaspartic system. This is good if you have a busy, working garage. It doesn’t make that much of a difference though if you are just parking your cars in it. I suggest you read this article about polyaspartic garage floor coatings. Next, I suggest you read this article about choosing a garage floor coating contractor.
Make sure you ask how many coats each flooring system consists of and what product is being used. Also, ask to see the technical data sheets. This will give you a good idea of the quality of materials being used and provides a good comparison between the two systems. Finally, make sure that each preps the concrete by grinding and not acid etching. If you have any more questions just let us know.
Fred Nazarko says
Hello…I just had my garage done and it looks great….contractor applied primer, base coat, full broadcast chips and a UV polyurethane coat…but the contractor also did NOT do a 6 inch step the spanned from side to side of the 2-car garage claiming that the the epoxy would not stick on vertical surfaces…is this true? If so, what would you recommend I do with this bare concrete step?
Shea says
Hello Fred. Unfortunately, what you were told is not true. Most floor coating contractors offer to apply the coating and color flakes to vertical surfaces such as the surrounding stem walls and step ups for elevation changes. It’s generally done for an additional charge. DIY applicators do it as well. Take a look at the first image from this article here as an example. If the contractor will not offer to do this for you at an additional charge, you can always find someone else who would. Another option is to color match the epoxy color with an acrylic latex concrete paint which you can purchase from your local home improvement center. No real concrete prep is required, other than making sure it is clean, and there is no worries about wear since you will not be walking or driving on a vertical surface. Just the color change alone from bare concrete to the same as the rest of the floor can tie things in nicely.
Jill Hiatt says
We have a 12’X32′ cement floor in our covered and screened lanai at our home in SW Florida that I would like to cover with an epoxy floor. Would it for this sort of application?
Shea says
Hello Jill. A lanai is going to have much more U.V. light exposure than a garage. Epoxy wouldn’t be the best choice as it can develop a yellow tint from the U.V. exposure. We suggest a single-part polyurea instead. These are U.V. stable, easy to apply, and extremely durable. You can learn more about them here.
Aeisha says
Hi I just want to ask my plan for a living room.
From bare concrete more than 2 months
1. Primer concrete paint
2. Any concrete paint serves us my design
3. Epoxy coat.
If I do these all I can produce a successful output? If not please I need your suggestion. By the way I’m in a tropical country
Shea says
Hello Aesha. You cannot apply epoxy over primer concrete paint. It has to be an epoxy primer. Paint and epoxy are two completely different products.
Ray D says
Have used a product ( or this same one) on garage floor approx 10 years ago. Held up great for 8 years in intense sunlight exposure. Top coat now yellowing. Tried removing it with lacquer thinner but it will not soften. How can I remove it and can I purchase the clear coat alone to reapply to the base coat and flakes ?
Thanks
Shea says
Hello Ray. A good coating will not soften or be affected by most chemicals as you discovered. What you will need to do is remove the existing clear coat by grinding. You may loose some color flakes in the process (assuming you have them). You can then apply a new clear coat. One thing to keep in mind is that if the clear coat has yellowed, then chances are high that the color coat has yellowed as well. If that is the case, you would be better off applying a new color coat and clear coat over the existing coating. It would require roughing up the surface with 100-120 grit sandpaper in order to do this. A single-part polyurea coating is a good option for a new coating since they do not turn yellow to U.V. exposure.