A garage floor sealer sounds simple enough to protect and seal the concrete in your garage or workshop. But what does a sealer do for the concrete and which type should you use? Which sealer is best for your requirements and budget? Options include densifiers, siliconates, oil-repelling sealers, salt-repelling sealers, epoxy, polyurea, acrylics, and more. As you can see, it can become a bit overwhelming.
Don’t fret, it’s not as confusing as it may seem at first. Our goal is to explain the differences in sealers for a garage floor or workshop so that it’s much easier to understand. We will discuss how they work, how they are applied, and the benefits of each. This should help you determine what sealer will be best for your needs.
We include economical sealers that protect the bare concrete for a nice clean look, sealers for working garages and workshop floors, as well as decorative sealers and coatings. That’s right, garage floor coatings are sealers as well.
Penetrating Sealers VS Topical Sealers – What’s the Difference?
There are two distinct categories of garage floor sealers that determine performance, looks, and application requirements. They are penetrating sealers and topical sealers.
Though both types seal the concrete, they look and perform much differently from one another. With so many garage flooring options available, it’s important to get a basic understanding of each.
Penetrating Sealers
Penetrating sealers work by penetrating into the concrete upon application. They react with the minerals in the concrete to form a hard, gel-like molecular barrier in the subsurface. Otherwise known as non-film-forming sealers, they are breathable and do not form a coating on the concrete surface.
As a result, penetrating sealers do not change the look of bare concrete. And because they are non-film forming, they cannot be scratched if you drag a sharp object across the concrete surface. In addition, they will retain the same wet slip resistance of the current concrete surface.
Furthermore, penetrating sealers typically are the most economical sealing solution for a garage floor or workshop and one of the easiest of all garage flooring options to apply.
An important fact about penetrating sealers is that they are not waterproof as some people assume. Nor are they stainproof. This is due to the non-film-forming properties of the sealer.
Though they do a good job of repelling water and resisting automotive fluids, all liquids will eventually penetrate the concrete surface if allowed to sit long enough. How long they sit before penetration is determined by the type of sealer and the porosity of the concrete.
Lastly, liquids such as oil, automotive fluids, and other contaminants can stain if allowed to sit. How much they stain and how easily an oil stain cleans up are determined by the type of penetrating sealer applied and how long the oil or other contaminant was allowed to sit.
When it comes to stain resistance, the goal of a penetrating sealer is to provide enough time for spills and leaks to be cleaned up first before they have a chance to stain. This includes some of the newer oil-repelling sealers the industry has introduced to provide better stain resistance.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers / Coatings
Topical sealers adhere to the concrete surface with only slight penetration. Also known as film-forming sealers, they are more widely known as floor coatings or garage floor coatings. They form a protective layer that is typically non-breathable and can be impermeable depending on the coating used.
Many are 2-part resinous coatings that require mixing before application, though there are exceptions. They chemically cure and create a hard coating that is extremely durable. The thickness, abrasive properties, and chemical resistance of these coating sealers can vary depending on the type and quality of the coating that is used.
Paint and 1-part epoxy paint are not sealers or coatings. Don’t make this mistake! We discuss why here.
Most coatings are also considered decorative. Clear coatings will enhance the look of the garage floor surface. They tend to darken bare concrete, add character, and provide a matte to a glossy finish.
In addition, clear coating sealers are used to protect and highlight the colors of stained or dyed concrete. They make the colors pop with vibrancy and add shine.
Colored coatings completely change the look of the garage floor. Epoxy and polyurea garage floor coatings are great examples. You can opt for a solid color or add multi-colored acrylic flakes with a clear coat to create your own unique color palette.
Unlike penetrating sealers, topical sealers and coatings prevent the bare concrete from being stained by oils, automotive fluids, and chemicals. This is because the coating acts as a sacrificial barrier.
Furthermore, one large advantage of topical sealers over penetrating sealers is that the surface is very easy to keep clean.
Higher-performing coatings can also be extremely stain resistant. Oil, chemicals, salty road brines, and other fluids can sit for much longer periods. All that is required in most cases is wiping up the mess with a rag. A shot of Windex can remove any leftover film residue.
Lastly, many topical sealers and coatings will prevent the penetration of water and liquids into the concrete. This doesn’t necessarily make the entire garage floor waterproof. Exposed cracks and concrete joints can still allow water to seep into the concrete.
Now that we better understand the difference between penetrating garage floor sealers and topical garage floor sealers, let us discuss the various types available and what we can recommend.
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Recommended Penetrating Sealers for Garage Floors
There is a wide range of penetrating sealers for concrete to choose from. Therefore, it can easily become overwhelming if you don’t know what to look for.
There are silane concrete sealers, silicone sealers, siloxane sealers, siliconate sealers, densifiers, oleophobic concrete sealers, and more. Many are hybrids of each. Some are water-based, while others or solvent-based. Many do not work very well for a garage floor.
As a result, we will only discuss those penetrating sealers that we recommend and know to work best for a garage or workshop floor. In addition, we will discuss concrete prep that may be required and sealer application.
Siliconate Sealers
Siliconate sealers are a great choice for homeowners who just want good general protection of their bare concrete at a minimal cost with ease of application. Often considered the “all-purpose” sealer for garage floors and workshops, they are a great value as well.
Compared to other penetrating sealers, their medium-sized molecular structure does not allow the sealant to penetrate too deep. This provides for better coverage rates and more importantly, better protection of the concrete surface.
As a result, they provide good water repellency including repellency against moisture, road salts, and dirt. Siliconate sealers also resist efflorescence and provide good protection against freeze-thaw, which is the leading cause of spalling of concrete.
Learn more: Why Penetrating Siliconate Sealers May Be All You Need
One thing to keep in mind is that siliconate sealers do not repel oil. Though they will buy you some time for cleanup by slowing down penetration into the concrete, a stain can occur if oil is allowed to sit for long. However, the resulting stain will not be nearly as bad as an oil stain on untreated concrete.
As with the majority of penetrating sealers, the application is very easy. For most concrete surfaces, the only preparation required is to clean and degrease. Once the concrete has thoroughly dried, one coat of the sealer is applied using a low-pressure pump-up garden sprayer with a conical spray nozzle.
Densifiers and Densifier Sealers
Densifiers are a type of silicate sealer. They had been used primarily in the process of polishing concrete and for adding strength to newly poured concrete floors. However, with the introduction of easier-to-apply lithium silicate densifiers, they have become more popular for garage, workshop, and warehouse floors.
Densifiers work by reacting with minerals in the concrete to form a very hard substance called calcium silicate hydrate or CSH. The CSH fills many of the empty voids and pores of the concrete at and near the surface. This increases the density, strength, and hardness of the concrete in these areas.
Check the Current Price on our Top Recommended Densifier
In addition, the filling of these voids with CSH reduces concrete dusting. Furthermore, it slows down moisture intrusion from below the slab to help prevent efflorescence and moisture vapor. However, silicate densifiers do not repel water or other liquids.
As a result of their increasing popularity, manufacturers began adding siliconate to densifiers to provide water and liquid-repelling characteristics. This new type of densifier with siliconate sealer added provides the characteristics of a densifier plus, the same protections as a siliconate sealer as well.
Learn more: Why Densifiers are the New Garage Floor Sealer
As with siliconate sealers, densifiers do not repel oil. However, testing has shown that densifiers with siliconate sealer added do a better job at resisting oil stains than a stand-alone siliconate sealer only.
The application is similar to that of a siliconate sealer. However, more importance is emphasized on not letting the densifier puddle. If it does, it’s important to use a paint roller to roll out the excess or use a broom to work it into the concrete.
If allowed to dry with excess sealer on the surface, a white powder will form and require heavy scrubbing to remove.
Oil Repelling Penetrating Sealers
Oil-repelling penetrating sealers are fairly new to the market. They’ve come about due to the constant demand for a better-performing sealer against staining from oil and other automotive fluids for garage floors and workshops.
A unique ingredient of these sealers is the use of fluorocarbons to create an oleophobic barrier. Oleophobic refers to the physical property of a molecule to seemingly repel oil.
Oil will lay flat or even run on a concrete surface treated with typical penetrating sealers. This characteristic does not resist the penetration of oil nearly as well as water which typically beads from being repelled.
However, oil tends to bead somewhat on a concrete surface treated with an oleophobic sealer. This repelling action allows the oil to sit for a longer period with less chance of penetration into the concrete.
This repelling action allows for an easier cleanup of oils and other automotive fluids and less chance of an oil stain. However, this does not mean the concrete can’t be stained. As with all penetrating sealers, oil and other offending contaminants will stain eventually if allowed to sit long enough.
What oil-repelling penetrating concrete sealers do is allow more time for the oil to sit before cleanup. In addition, it can also make the removal of any offending stains easier.
The raw materials used for these sealers are more expensive. As a result, they cost more than typical penetrating sealers. In addition, one popular oil-repelling sealer that is known to work well also requires the application of a densifier first.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Single Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Oil-repelling sealers in most cases are the better choice to use on garage floors and workshops. However, the importance of these characteristics versus cost is something to consider if you are on a budget.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Dual Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Application of these sealers is a bit more involved but still fairly easy. The concrete must be degreased, clean, and dry. Depending on the sealer used, the application can require a wet flood coat using a pump-up sprayer or application via a lambswool pad or microfiber pad.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers and Coatings
The number of options for garage floor coatings and topical sealers is large. There are acrylic coatings and sealers, epoxy, polyurethane, polyurea, and polyaspartics. In addition, there are single-part moisture-cured coatings and 2-part coatings. And most come in a choice of clear or colored.
Furthermore, the application process, performance characteristics, and durability vary greatly. This includes what chemicals, stains, and abuse they can withstand.
As a result, this is an area where research before a purchase is paramount. Marketing campaigns by large corporations such as Rust-Oleum, Behr, QuikRete, H&C, and others have only served to confuse the consumer. This has led to many unhappy or misinformed purchases.
In addition, do not rely on information from home improvement centers. They are not knowledgeable about concrete coatings and they do not carry quality products in their inventory.
The following topical sealer options below are listed from low to high in approximate cost.
Acrylic concrete sealers
Acrylic concrete sealers form a thin protective layer on bare concrete. Most are clear, but some can be tinted for color. Expect 1 – 1.5 mils dry film thickness per coat on average.
They will enhance the look of the garage floor and make the concrete look slightly darker. The floor will attain a somewhat wet and glossy look or you can opt for a less flashy matte finish. Glossy finishes tend to be more durable.
In terms of performance, acrylic sealers will protect the garage floor from water and chloride intrusion. In addition, they provide light to moderate protection against oil, vehicle fluids, hot tire pick-up, and road salts.
Most acrylic sealers are also U.V. stable. This means that they will not turn a yellow tint if exposed to direct sunlight.
Water-based acrylic sealers are the least durable of all concrete coating options and the easiest to scratch. Solvent-based acrylics increase durability, scratch resistance, and chemical resistance from automotive fluids.
For a more durable alternative, we recommend the performance of MMA acrylic sealers. These have longer endurance properties than standard acrylic sealers and can withstand harsher chemicals.
Acrylic sealers perform best with light to moderate traffic. Reapplication may be required once every 18 to 36 months depending on the sealer used.
One DIY advantage of acrylic sealers is that they are fairly easy to apply. The concrete needs to be degreased, cleaned, and dry. Etching of the concrete is typically not required unless the surface is extremely smooth.
You can use either a low-pressure pump-up sprayer or apply it with a paintbrush and rollers out of a tray. The key to a successful application is to apply the coating thin or problems will develop. Typically, two coats are applied for the best protection.
Modified Acrylic Polyurethane Sealers
If you like the look of a clear sealer on bare concrete, then one of the best-performing values is a modified acrylic polyurethane.
This is a somewhat new sealer for garage floors that we feel is going to explode in popularity once the word gets out. It combines high performance and ease of application at a budget price.
Technically, they are a thin, 2-part water-based, high-performance, acrylic-modified, aliphatic polyurethane coating and sealer. Aliphatic means that they are U.V. stable and will not amber. In addition, they are Eco-friendly, and no etching of the concrete is required.
Acrylic-modified polyurethane sealers provide better abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, and stain resistance than most epoxy. They are a true workhorse sealer for garage floors and workshops.
A minimum of two thin coats is required. This will result in a dry film thickness of just under 2 mils. Three coats are recommended for commercial applications. They are one of the few topical sealers that will adhere well to machine-troweled concrete.
Learn More: Our Top Recommended Acrylic Modified Polyurethane
These are best used on smooth concrete with few repairs. Due to their thin nature, they are not recommended on rough garage floor finishes or concrete with numerous repairs. They are not thick enough to provide self-leveling properties such as epoxy or polyurea.
Furthermore, they will only adhere to bare, unsealed concrete and are not compatible as a clear sealer over epoxy or other coatings.
Application requires that the concrete be clean and dry. No etching of the concrete is required. The sealer is best applied using a low-pressure pump-up sprayer with a conical spray nozzle in conjunction with a microfiber application pad or 1/4″ low nap roller.
Epoxy Concrete Sealers
Undisputedly, the most popular sealer is garage floor epoxy. Epoxy is a 2-part thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating. It chemically cures to create polymer structures that are closely cross-linked. This is what gives epoxy its superior strength and durability.
Epoxy is available as a clear coat to bare concrete but is more commonly applied in solid colors. Finishes range from satin for low-budget formulas to a high gloss for commercial-quality epoxy.
The most durable applications are epoxy systems that include a minimum of a color coat, optional decorative color flakes, and a clear coat. Professionally installed garage floor coatings consist of such systems.
Learn more: How to Choose the Best Garage Floor Epoxy System
In addition, epoxy coating sealers are much thicker than acrylics. They can be applied thicker than any other coating available. Depending on the solids content, one coat of epoxy can be applied at 2.5 – 12 mils dry film thickness and higher.
Epoxy sealers can withstand heavy traffic and are abrasion resistant. Furthermore, most are non-breathable and will prevent water and chemical intrusion at the surface. They are resistant to most chemicals, oil, vehicle fluids, road salts, and hot tire pickup.
One disadvantage is that epoxy is not U.V. resistant. If exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight, it can turn a yellow tint (amber) over a period of time.
Single-coat DIY garage floor epoxy kits purchased from local home improvement centers are the least durable epoxy coatings. We explain more in detail here.
Epoxy sealer application is more involved and time-consuming compared to penetrating sealers. However, DIY application is very common. Application is done using paintbrushes and paint rollers.
Proper concrete preparation is essential or the coating will not adhere properly. Etching the concrete is required at the minimum. Grinding the concrete may be preferred for some applications, but it is not mandatory.
In addition, epoxy application is time sensitive. Once the two parts are mixed, you typically have 30 – 40 minutes to get the epoxy applied before it hardens up. Low-quality epoxy allows for more application time. This time limit is dependent on the solids content. The higher the solids content (thicker, higher-performing coatings), the less time you have to apply it.
Moisture Cured Direct to Concrete Polyurethane Sealers
Polyurethane is a high-performance coating with increased benefits over epoxy. Depending on the quality, it is typically more abrasion and scratch resistant than epoxy. It wears longer and is more chemical and stain resistant. And unlike epoxy, most polyurethanes are U.V. stable and will not amber.
Traditional polyurethane coatings are available in 2-part formulas or single-part moisture-cured formulas. Like acrylics, they are applied thinly with an average dry film thickness of 2-2.5 mils.
However, one issue with traditional polyurethane concrete coating sealers is that they do not bond well directly to concrete. Instead, they are used as a U.V. stable colored coating over epoxy or more commonly, as a clear coat over epoxy.
Fortunately, this bonding issue has recently changed with the introduction of newer moisture-cured polyurethanes designed specifically to bond directly to concrete. Moisture-cured coatings are single-part and do not require mixing in a second part to act as a catalyst to start the chemical curing process.
Instead, it uses moisture in the air as the catalyst. The coating is not activated until it is applied to the concrete and exposed to the moisture in the air. As a result, you have a much longer working time to apply the coating as compared to epoxy. This is a nice benefit for DIY installations.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Moisture-Cured Polyurethane
Because these coatings are thin, they typically require a minimum of two color coats. One clear coat is sufficient if applied to bare concrete. However, two are recommended for more durability if it’s a busy working garage or workshop.
This type of coating sealer will not do a good job of hiding irregularities in the concrete due to its thin nature. High solids epoxy is better for that.
Application of direct to concrete moisture-cured polyurethane sealers is varied. The concrete must be clean, degreased, and completely dry throughout.
In addition, most require that the surface be acid etched. However, polyurethanes such as DuraGrade Concrete by Rust Bullet do not require etching in many cases. This can be a huge benefit to DIY installers that do not want to deal with additional concrete prep. Like most coatings, it is applied with paint rollers and brushes.
Polyurea and Polyaspartic floor sealers
Last on the list are the newer polyurea and polyaspartic floor coating sealers. These are a sub-group of polyurethane and have a similar finish to epoxy and polyurethane coated floors.
They are U.V. stable and can provide better protection than polyurethane. They also provide the best resistance against brown tire prints in the coating.
Unlike epoxy and polyurethane, many of these coatings can be applied in extreme temperatures from below freezing to over 100 degrees, depending on the formula.
What makes these coatings popular is their extremely fast return-to-service times. They can be installed on your garage floor in one day and driven on the next. Most polyurea and polyaspartic coatings need to be applied by a professional due to their very short working time. Twenty minutes or less is typical.
There are newer polyurea coating sealers that have been introduced that are much more DIY-friendly. They can provide up to two hours to get the coating applied depending on the polyurea or polyaspartic formula.
Learn more: Why the best DIY Garage Flooring Kits are Single-Part Polyurea
These long application times reduce the common anxiety of getting the coating applied in enough time. As a result, they can be an excellent choice for a DIY application.
We highly recommend the newer single-part polyurea coatings. These are commercial-quality, moisture-cured coatings that will last 10-15 years or more on a garage floor.
Final thoughts
We have a few considerations for you to keep in mind when deciding which garage floor sealer is best for you.
If you have issues with moisture coming up through the concrete, a penetrating garage floor sealer is generally the better choice. Because they are breathable, they will not be affected by moisture vapor. As we discussed, they may also serve to block or reduce moisture coming up from underneath the concrete slab.
Acrylic sealers are breathable and will tolerate low levels of moisture. Resinous topical sealers and coatings such as epoxy, polyurethanes, and polyurea will not allow for moisture transfer. They can peel and even pull small chunks of concrete up with it if moisture gets trapped under the coating. Moisture testing should be conducted if you suspect it may be an issue before applying a topical sealer.
If you use your garage or workshop for metal fabrication and welding, a penetrating sealer may be the better option. Coatings will get damaged if sharp metal objects are dragged across the surface. They will also incur burn marks from welding slag or heavy metal grinding.
Lastly, take the time to evaluate your requirements. Be realistic in terms of what you want a concrete sealer to do for your garage floor or workshop. No penetrating or film-forming topical sealer and coating are perfect. Compromises may need to be made, particularly if budget is a concern.
Kirsten says
I just had my basement finished for use as a dog grooming salon. The floor is concrete…not a concrete slab, as there wasn’t space to make something that thick, just a few inches of concrete poured over the existing concrete floor. It is stained a nice terra cotta, and my contractors got a polyurethane sealer to put on top of that. But the polyurethane sealer goes on kind of milky-white, and dries leaving the color looking washed out and pale. Is there another polyurethane product that leaves a clear finish? I think I need to avoid acrylic because it won’t provide enough protection against water from all those dogs, and I am worried that epoxy will be too slippery.
Shea says
Hi Kirsten. Has the sealer been applied yet or was it just tested in an inconspicuous spot? If it’s been applied already it will need to be removed first before you apply anything else. Also, are you sure it’s polyurethane for concrete? If it is, it should make the stain color pop and it should cure very clear. It should not do as you described unless it was applied during high humidity.
One thing to keep in mind is that many polyurethanes do not bond as well to bare concrete and may require a clear epoxy primer coat first. Some single component moisture cured polyurehanes will adhere well to bare concrete however. Also, any resinous coating is going to be somewhat slippery when wet. Some more than others. If you want to avoid that you would need to use an anti-slip additive. Just keep in mind that the additive can be more visible with darker colored floors.
If you need to find a polyurethane for bare concrete, Legacy Industrial has one here. They also have a very easy to apply polyurea clear coating that is extremely tough and great for stained floors. It’s called Norh-S and you can find it here. We suggest giving them a call and ask for Scotty if you have any questions.
Kirsten Stade says
Great, thank you!
The polyurethane my contractor got is not specially for concrete–it is labeled for use on wood floors. So I was surprised he got it. I applied it to just part of the floor, and found the pale coloration I described. I applied stain on top of it just to see what would happen and the stain seemed to sink right in–suggesting that the polyurethane was not effective at all as a sealer.
Thank you for the suggestions! What is the difference between the two products you recommend?
Shea says
That’s what I thought you may have. It would have been a disaster had you applied that to the entire floor. Both products we mention are excellent. The Norh-S will achieve a better bond to bare concrete than the polyurethane, but it will be a little more slippery unless you apply some anti-slip. I would recommend giving them a call and they can tell you the one best for your purposes.
Bob AK says
Hi Shea,
Thank you for the very informative website!
I have a garage floor in a split-level duplex which is suspended over a mechanical / storage room below. So, there’s no problem with water coming up through the concrete. The floor has issues however: When it was poured (’70’s) the forms were inadequately supported, and the floor set with two pronounced sags on either side of the center support wall. (The floor is now supported properly with beams). Since this floor will be used to park vehicles, drains will be put in the low points of each sag…so, water should flow properly to the drains. The surface of the concrete has some sort of veneer which is quite deteriorated, and also some residual caulk material, that had been applied to small surface cracks, which is easily scraped off. There are also some small dents (like boot prints in the still-wet concrete?) and other surface imperfections that I’d like to smooth out.
My question is what would be the best sequence of steps to re-surface this floor so that vehicles can be parked on it without further damage. (thinking studded tires, oil / antifreeze spills, etc.) My current thoughts:
(1) Prep the existing surface by abrasion/grinding (still looking for equipment to do this)
(2) Core drain holes & install drains at this point?
(3) Smooth out the dents & dings with an epoxy filler (would this be the best product for this?)
(4) Coat the concrete with a densifier/sealer…maybe the BoneDry product you mentioned?
(5) Seal finish the floor with an epoxy coating.
Do you have any suggestions, or an alternate game plan?
I have been working with a contractor on window/door replacements, concrete cutting, etc… but I don’t think they have much experience with epoxy coating applications. I’d like to provide them as much info as I can… Thank you again for the great site!
Shea says
Hi Bob. You are right on track with #’s 1-3. However, #4 is not necessary if you want to epoxy coat the concrete. An epoxy coating is a sealer and the densifier/sealer combo would be redundant. Since you mention studded tires, you will want to install a multi-coat system with high solids epoxy and multiple coats of a high performance polyurethane or polyurea top coat in order to prevent damage to the coating from the studded tires. If you are looking for someone to do this for you, we highly recommend contracting out a professional floor coating company and not hiring a typical contractor. No disrespect to general contractors, but most don’t really understand the important differences in resinous floor coatings and how they are installed.
Bob AK says
Hi Shea,
Thank you for the very quick response!!
I have a followup question(s): Since this floor has been exposed to vehicular water drips in its past, I was thinking that the densifier component would cause the old deteriorated concrete it comes in contact with to re-bond somewhat as the solution soaks down into the concrete, and thus would increase the net strength of the slab. Would it be a better strategy, if “increasing strength” were my objective, to use the densifier/sealer instead of the epoxy, which would seal the very top surface of the slab? I’m focusing on these attributes you mention in your “Why Concrete Densifiers are the New Garage Floor Sealer” article:
• Added strength and abrasion resistance to the surface of a working garage
• Increases the compressive strength of concrete
• Repels liquids and other fluids which help to make your garage floor stain resistant
• Helps act as a moisture barrier for your garage floor
If this might be a better approach, then would the BoneDry product be the best choice? They ship direct, so there’s that added expense ($100 for a 5-gal container). Is there a more available product? (we have Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, & several other chains here)
Shea says
Hi Bob. If your ultimate goal is not necessarily decorative but instead to just help strengthen the surface as well as seal it, then a densifier combo would be much less expensive. It will however show all the patchwork and irregularities of your floor. You may want to consider patching the floor with a polymer modified cement instead since an epoxy patch would look so much different. It will still stand out as patch work, but it will look more like cement than epoxy. We talk more about that here.
If that is what you want to do, we would recommend a two stage process of using a densifier first followed up by a penetrating sealer with a stain guard. Home improvement centers are not the best place to shop for quality coating and sealer products. They usually do not carry commercial quality product and the customer service in terms of knowledge is always poor. Garage Flooring LLC is a great place to start for what you want to accomplish. We recommend talking to Justin as he carries a few commercial quality products that do what you want to accomplish. He has good pricing along with free shipping of all their product.
Julie says
Thanks for the helpful information on your website! In the house that I am selling, there is a 6 inch crack in the middle of the garage floor. I am supposed to seal it (per the buyer) but I wonder what sealant you recommend (we”re on a budget!) and how I properly clean the garage floor to prepare it. Thanks!
Shea says
Hi Julie. We have an article here about crack repair. If that doesn’t help, please tell us a little bit more about the crack. Is it 6″ long? How wide is it?
Peter Schumacher says
We live in Wisconsin so tough, cold winters. We had a new cement garage floor poured about 10 days ago. I am a little confused as to how long we have to wait to have one of the sealers applied that will resist road salt and similar de-icing solutions that our vehicles bring into the garage.
Shea says
Hi Peter. Film forming sealers like acrylics, paint, and epoxy coatings need a minimum of 28 days before applying to new concrete. Many of the penetrating sealers however can be applied sometimes within hours. Those are the type that will not change the look of the concrete. All of them will resist road salt and deicing fluids.
Emily says
Thank you for this wonderful site! I am looking at two different types of sealers for my garage floor. It is stained with oil but I bought some concrete oil cleaner and also some acid etch, though I am unclear on whether the sealers need acid etch or if it is just the epoxies. Here are my two options, let me know what you think will be best.
The first is Benjamin Moore Concrete Waterproof Sealer – Low Lustre – Silicone Acrylic. I already have 4 gallons of this so it would be the easiest for me to use. However I am wary about the “low Lustre” part because it would be nice to have a beautiful shiny floor. It is my understanding that you can’t use paint chips or any kind of topcoat with this sealer.
The second option I have been looking at is a 5 gallon container of Eagle Gloss Coat Clear Wet Look Solvent. This is an acrylic dealer which sells for about $100 which would be in my budget and would give the floors a nice shine. I am just unsure what the prep work is for this product and how it would hold up compared to the Benjamin Moore silicone acrylic. Or if there is a wet look dealer that you recommend that is comparable in price I would be open to hearing about it.
I just want my floor to look nice and clean up easily. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am going to start the project at the end of this week! Thanks!
Shea says
Hi Emily. Of the two, the Eagle product will hold up better and give you what you want in terms of looks. The Benjamin Moore product is a water based product with a matte finish. The Eagle acrylic sealer is solvent based with a high gloss finish. It’s also more durable. A solvent based acrylic will give your floor a wet glossy look which is what you are looking for. We talk about using acrylic sealers for your garage floor here.
As long as the concrete in your garage does not bead water you should be OK without doing an acid etch. You will need to get the oil stains up however before you apply it. Once they are clean, test them to see if they will absorb water. If they do and the water does not bead up, then the sealer will adhere.
Emily says
Thank you so much for the advice Shea. I am going to go ahead and order the Eagle wet look solvent. Just a few questions.
It sounds from the other article that two thin coats is all that I will need. In the future if it starts to wear down in certain places would I just need to sand the area and apply to the places that need touching up? Will this wet look solvent bead water and not allow it to soak into the cement (thus making for an easy clean up for spills?) Could I put a layer of concrete dye down first (like the Behr stuff at Home Depot – not the fancy etch) and then apply the gloss coat above? And do you recommend shark grip or anything in one of the layers to prevent slippage? Will it lose the glossy look if I do that?
Thank you so much! Looking forward to the project and would be happy to send pics to you after I finish if you would like!
Shea says
Touching up is just as you described. Acrylics are considered a maintenance coating and are easy to reapply. They are film forming coatings which means that they form a film at the surface. As a result, most liquids bead up. Solvents will make them break down however. They make for easy clean up by just running a dust mop over the surface in most cases.
Yes, you can apply a stain to the concrete first. It would need to be an acid stain or an acetone dye. The Behr product is not really a stain. It’s a tinted water based acrylic sealer. If you scratched it the color would come right up. A solvent based acrylic like the Eagle product is not compatible and will break down the water based product. A true stain does just what it says. It stains the concrete permanently.
Yes, an anti-slip will reduce the glossiness some, but not completely. If you anticipate your floor being wet a lot then the SharkGrip is a good idea.
mike says
I have another option/question……how about a penetrating sealer then put down the rust bullet paint I’m reading about?????
Shea says
There really isn’t a need to put down a penetrating sealer if you are going to install a coating Mike. The coatings seals and protect the concrete at the surface and the penetrating sealer wouldn’t be doing anything. Think of it this way, it’s like wearing two rain coats. The first one you put on isn’t doing anything because the second one is covering it.
If you still want to put down a penetrating sealer then go for it. However, you will still need to grind first if you want to apply epoxy. Rust Bullet may still be applied without any concrete prep. You would just need to do a 6″x6″ test square to check adhesion first. As long as your floor was troweled by hand and not machine, you can most likely apply a penetration sealer without concrete prep. If water will absorb into the concrete without beading, then you are good to go.
Roger says
I am getting some moisture from beneath my garage slab.If I uses a penetrating sealer to stop this, can I then apply an epoxy (or something else) to make my floor easier to clean and more attractive?Or will the sealer prevent it to adhere properly? what should I do/
Shea says
Hi Roger. A penetrating sealer will not prevent a film forming coating such as epoxy from adhering. Just remember that you still need to follow all directions regarding proper floor prep for epoxy or any other coating for that matter after you apply a penetrating sealer.
Bob Wible says
I put down 2 part epoxiy 10 years ago. On my garage floor. Now it is showing signs of wear with some open concrete. What is the best thing to do now and what must I do to prepare the floor for application??
Shea says
Hi Bob. We have an article on that here.
Eddie Johnson says
I have a garage that gets flooded when it rains. A majority of the water comes through the doorway. I have put a concrete hump across the doorway but the rain seems to soak through it.
What can I seal my barrage with to stop rainwater seeping in.
I have tried a couple of sealers, foam, render etc.
Shea says
Hi Eddie. Have you applied any sealer to the floor behind it? And what type sealer did you apply to the barrier hump? Concrete is porous and acts like a big sponge. The water could be getting absorbed before your barrier and traveling through the substrate to reappear behind your barrier.
Brendan says
Hello, I am using the epoxymaster DIY kit on your recommendation. Can I use an acrylic concrete sealer after I apply the epoxy?
Shea says
Hello Brendan. The short answer is no. An acrylic concrete sealer is far inferior to the EpoxyMaster coating and can’t be applied to the epoxy anyway. It can only be applied to bare concrete. If you want a tough, clear top coat, EpoxyMaster offers a polyurethane coating that will do an excellent job. Just give them a call to ask about it or visit their website.
Zevi Bareket says
Hello! Thank you for a *very* informative website! I spend hours browsing and reading, and while i think I have a general idea of what to do — I still have some questions.
We just finished (well, the contractor did…) building a 30×40 pole barn with a concrete floor. I plan on using it to store vehicles, boat, my yard equipment, and also as a limited-use shop (not heated). The finish is smooth, not brushed.
The big question now is how to protect the floor? (DIY path)
What to do with the relief cuts they made in the concrete: fill with some sealer/caulk of some sort before applying concrete seal (topical or penetrating)?
I’m guessing that Epoxy for the whole floor might be cost-prohibitive: about $2,000 ? Any particular brand you recommend?
Should the penetrating siliconate sealer be my choice? If I apply it, and later want to set off an area with a “fancier” finish like Epoxy – will I need to ground the concrete before applying the epoxy, or can it be applied later directly over the siliconate sealer ? What should I expect as the price difference between Epoxy and siliconate sealer ?
How long should it be between pouring the concrete and applying the finish? A month?
Many thanks in advance!
Shea says
Hi Zevi, the first question we have is did the contractor use a cure and seal product on the concrete after it was poured? It’s not uncommon for contractors to do that. If so, it will need to be removed via grinding before you can put anything down on the floor.
If not, then you have all the options as stated. Sealing the floor with a penetrating sealer would be relatively inexpensive – less than $300. You can go a step further and treat it with a densifier instead and then a special oil repelling penetrating sealer for a little more money. The contraction joints could then be filled afterwards with a self-leveling polyurethane sealer like SikaFlex. Penetrating sealers can be applied almost immediately after a new pour.
If you wanted to epoxy the floor sometime later you would need to grind the floor to remove the sealer which would also profile the surface at the same time (which you need to do anyways). A cost estimate for a quality epoxy would be between $600 and $1,600 depending on what type of system you choose, plus required tools (rollers, brushes, buckets, grinding rental, etc). You can opt to fill the joints with self-leveling sealant afterwards or you can fill them beforehand for the seamless look which requires different product and is more expensive. As far as brand, there are many good products. Stay away from anything offered by home improvement centers. Ours sponsors, Legacy Industrial, Garage Flooring LLC, and EpoxyMaster all have excellent product. You need to wait at least 30 days after cement is poured before applying a topical finish like epoxy.
Another option would be Rust Bullet. It does not require any concrete prep if the floor has not been sealed previously. It’s a great solution for a floor such as yours if you don’t mind a semi-metallic gray look.
Linda says
Hi,
Old detached garage floor being turned into a casual rec room, cleaned put down 1 coat Behr cementer sealer, 1 coat behr 1part expoxy paint with paint chips. Would like to put additional seal coat over top for additional protection and easy cleanup. Am completely confused now if that is possible and if so what to use.
HELP thanks
Shea says
Linda, we already answered your question earlier here in the “comments” section.
Fran says
Hi.
I applied valspar epoxy kit from lowes to my garage floor. I preped the floor really good and the kit turned out great. However, it doesn’t have much of a shine. I wanted to add a sealer to give it more of a “professional” shiny look. What would be suggested for a garage floor that has already had epoxy applied? All I’m looking for now is a shine. It took 3 days for my floor to not be tacky because I did a thick coat when I did the valspar garage kit epoxy so I’m nervous if I apply a sealer the floor will always be tacky. Help!
Shea says
Hi Fran. Epoxy needs a full 7 days to fully cure and harden. It can have the “tacky” feel for a couple days or so depending on what type of epoxy was installed as well as the weather conditions. People tend to confuse the word “sealer”. Epoxy is a sealer. The inexpensive garage floor kits from home improvement centers are not going to provide the type of shine as higher quality epoxy however as you found out.
What you need is to apply a clear top coat to get the look you want. Because your coating is already cured, you will need to prep it for a clear coat before you can apply it. You can read about that here. Valspar does not offer a clear epoxy that we are aware of, but Rust-Oleum Professional by EpoxyShield does. It can be hard to find in a home improvement center but you can find it online here from Amazon or other vendors online.
Lee says
Hello,
I’m afraid you may have answered this. The wife and I recently moved into a newly built home. We want to seal the garage to protect it, I work on bikes so I want to make sure it protects from oil as well.
We also don’t want a sealer that will be too slick or slippery.
Thank you,
Shea says
Hi Lee. You need to be a bit more specific. Sealers range from penetrating products to topical, film forming coatings such as epoxy. Do you plan on staying with the bare concrete look or are you looking for something that will enhance the floor as well? How much effort do you want to put into sealing your garage floor?
Mary says
Hi Shea, We have a 40’x50′ pole building/garage with a concrete floor. It is heated and insulated as we use it for many activities. We want to put in gym equipment but we want to use mats for the floor 4’x6′ horse pads 3/4″ thick. They look like some kind of rubber. We had some in before but the concrete draws moisture up from the ground and the bottom of the mats get wet and we are afraid of a mold problem. What will seal the concrete so it doesn’t draw water up from the ground? It is a slab. Or is the moisture from the cold floor and the heated air in the garage causing condensation on the underside of the pad? Thanks
Shea says
Hi Mary. If it was condensation from warm moist air on a cold floor, the concrete under the mats would be dry and the rest of the floor wet. So it sounds like moisture vapor from within the slap escaping and getting caught under the mat instead of dissipating in the air.
A siliconate penetrating sealer usually works well for something like this. If you would like even more resistance to automotive fluids and chemicals, you can always do a two step process which requires applying a densifier first and then applying an oil repellent sealer. You can find a good example here from our friends at Garage Flooring LLC. Neither of these processes require a lot of cement prep other than a clean surface that does not bead water.
Jon says
Hi Shea,
We have a 15 year old, 2-car, concrete garage floor in decent shape. Moisture from the outside is not an issue, but we wash and dry our dive gear inside, so moisture from that is an issue. We also park our cars inside the garage. We are in So Cal, so temps are mild, but the sun hits it a little, so epoxy yellowing is a concern. We want it to look nice, so some sort of color, and have a non-slip surface. From reading this awesome website, it sounds as though an epoxy or Poly (SpartaFlex?) product might work. We plan to have a pro install it. What product(s) do you recommend?
Thanks a bunch!
Jon
Shea says
Hi Jon. If you install a polyurea or polyaspartic garage floor coating you will not have any issues with yellowing. Both are 100% U.V. resistant. It would make for excellent choice. SpartaFlex is the marketing name of a type of polyaspartic coating manufactured by HP Spartacote and is a good example of a polyaspartic coating. As long as you go with a reputable installer that uses either polyaspartic or polyurea you will be fine. We have an article about these type of garage floor coatings here.
Rasheen says
Hi Shea,
Recently we moved to our new home. I am planning to epoxy my garage myself. I have question, what is the difference between Sealer and Epoxy?
What is process to epoxy done? Could you please explain?
thanks
Shea says
Hi Rasheen. Epoxy is a type of sealer. It is a cosmetic film forming coating that seals the concrete and protects it at the same time. Other sealers are non film forming and penetrate into the concrete to seal it and prevent liquid intrusion. These do not change the look of the concrete.
We recommend that you read our epoxy page as well as some of the sub menu selections. You can also read our post on how to apply epoxy.
Rasheen says
Thank you Shea.
Anyways It is very great website.
Kamil says
Hi,
Sealer is sealing the porous surface of concrete & promote beter adhesion for next coat, when you apply mentioned paint and after that you apply even oil based paints there wont be any problem with saponification. Best choice will be the pure epoxy paint and thinning around 20-30% with correct thinner, you wil have better wetting of the surface -like sealer, chemically curing paints are better but have one minus- not whistanding the uv radiation, but always you can apply polurethane or polisiloxane like a topcoat
BOB KLOEHN says
jUST HAD A GARAGE FLOOR (20′ X 20′) POURED. WANT TO STORE A 60’S MUSCLE IN THE GARAGE IN WISCONSIN.
WHAT WOULD BE A SIMPLE EASY SEALER TO USE TO KEEP OUT MOISTURE ETC…
Shea says
Hello Bob. A siliconate sealer should work nicely for you. You can read about them here.
Kim says
I am having my house treated for termites. They came up through a crack in the garage floor. After the exterminator leaves I wanted to have the garage floor sealed. However, there are a couple of hairline cracks several feet long. I wanted to hire a company to do the work but am not sure what kind of company to hire (painting, handyman, construction, etc.?) and can this 11 year old garage floor be sealed? I’d like to have a smooth surface that would be easier to sweep than the rough concrete. Thank you.
Shea says
Hello Kim. We recommend contacting garage floor coating contractors in your area. They are experts at crack repair and sealing concrete. In our experience, most construction contractors and handymen services do not know what they should about repairing concrete correctly for sealed surfaces. Interview them and talk to them about your sealing options. Some only do epoxy coatings, which are decorative and can get pricey, while others will apply acrylic sealers and penetrating sealers to bare concrete which is much less expensive. We have an article here on how to choose a garage floor contractor.
Chris says
I bought a 30 year old home with a two car garage. The floor is in good shape except wher a car has been parked. That area is pitted and rough. I don’t want to fix it, but I would like to keep it from getting worse. What would you recommend for an old garage in snow country?
Shea says
Hello Chris. We recommend cleaning the garage floor extremely well and then applying a siliconate penetrating sealer. You can read more about how they work here. They do very well against freeze/thaw damage and protect the concrete from road salts and deicing fluids.
Christopher says
I’ve been going back and forth on what to use to finish my garage floor and finally thought I had it settled on Clear Gloss 350 VOC Oil-Based Interior Polyurethane, to make the floor appear nice and finished, yet retain the character of the 60-year-old concrete. I’ve washed and scrubbed the floor with concrete cleaner/degreaser in preparation, but I fear that won’t be enough. What further steps do I need to take or should I use a different product?
I also fear that the Poly will set up too quickly for me to get a consistent coat and finish, as the garage is 236 sq. ft.
Also, just in case, it is November in Kentucky, and I only have a space heater for the garage, with average temperatures in the 50s.
Suggestions?
Shea says
Hello Christopher. Do not use the Clear Gloss 350 polyurethane. It’s an oil based product for wood floors and not designed for concrete. You would have a mess on your hands if you applied it. Home improvement centers are not the best place to shop concrete floor coatings. Polyurethane coatings for concrete in most cases will not adhere well when applied to bare concrete. You usually need to use a clear epoxy primer on the concrete first to achieve the best bond to the concrete with the polyurethane applied after that to create a very strong chemical bond to the epoxy.
We suggest that you take a look at Nohr-S by Legacy Industrial. You can find the write up we did on it here along with a picture of a bare concrete floor done in clear further down the page. It’s a single part polyurea that can be applied to bare concrete in colder temps. It has similar characteristics as polyurethane and is very easy to apply. Being an older floor with wear, you may be able to get by with a good high pressure power wash for prep, but we recommend contacting them first about it.
Dave says
Hi Shea – thanks for the informative article. I have a second home, new construction, with a sealed crawl space. It seems that the builder did a poor job of installing the vapor barrier below the rat slab, and I have been running a dehumidifier to the tune of $50/mo to keep the humidity down (wood floors were starting to swell). Would a siliconate sealer be appropriate? Any harm in trapping the moisture in the concrete? Does the siliconate sealer have much odor? Thanks for your help.
Shea says
Hello Dave. Siliconate sealers do a good job at stopping or slowing down normal moisture intrusion from under a slab. However, for your case you may need a deeper penetrating sealer designed more for basements. Less emphasis is put into stopping moisture from the top and instead preventing it from coming in from underneath as in your case. We recommend giving Concrete Sealers USA a call and ask for Chris. He’s extremely knowledgeable about this subject and can make a recommendation for you.
Barney says
I have and older 2 car garage located on the Southern Oregon coast. The garage stays wet most of the winter, some from parking wet cars but additionally moisture seeps up through the concrete, leaving a white powdery material when it does dry out.
Do you have suggestions on how to treat this floor?
Shea says
A penetrating sealer is your best bet Barney. You can read about them here. You will want to apply it when things dry out. The sealer cannot be applied to wet concrete. Of course you will need to get the concrete clean first before application as well.
Jim says
Great article, I have built a new home, (1700 sq.ft.) it has a two car garage. it’s a concrete floor throughout the home which has had color put in during the pouring. This is now about 1 1/2 years in curing while the rest of the construction was being finished. It does have some cracking, but is dry and unsealed. We used water sprinklers to help with curing during the summer. I live in the pacific NW region.
I want to put color accents in the floor, some different colors in different rooms including the garage. More of a swirl effect leaving the colored floor mostly showing. I want a clear finish, maybe satin or semi-gloss.
I still need to clean the floor from the drywall experience, which left a latex PBA primer overspray, which got under the floor paper edges.
I have been doing some research, but remain confused on what to use to achieve a nice looking durable floor that will last. Any help with procedure, and products to use will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your experience and time. Jim
Shea says
Hello Jim. If you want to add color with a swirl effect, you will want to use an acetone or water based dye. Acetone colors are more vibrant while water based are more soft and subtle. Acid staining may not be the best choice as it’s a reactive stain that creates various mottling effects based on the amount of free lime in the concrete. It’s much harder to control the process as an accent.
Prepping the floor for a durable clear coat will require grinding of the concrete. This will remove the PBA primer as well as create a nice clean slate for the dye as well as the proper profile for the clear coat. A polyurea or polaspartic clear coat would be the best choice as it will give you a water clear coating that is extremely durable and adheres well to the bare concrete. Polyurethane has similar qualities but is not designed to be applied to bare concrete. It works best applied over epoxy, but the epoxy is not as clear. You can purchase polyurethane that is designed to be applied to bare concrete that is more than durable enough for foot traffic but not something that you would want to put down on a garage floor.
For more information on decorating interior concrete floors, we suggest visiting the Concrete Network. They have many articles about interior stains and dyes for the home, including the different top coat sealers that you can apply.
REUBEN BOWMAN says
HELLOW SHEA, I LIVE IN TN AND I JUST HAD A SLAB POURED WHICH IS 30 BY 48 GARAGE. I AM WANTING TO USE IT AS A WORKSHOP FOR TRUCKS. MOSTLY CHANGING BRAKES AND FLUIDS FROM BRAKES, MOTOR OIL AS WELL TRAN. OR REAREND GEAR OIL. I NEED SOMETHING THAT WILL HOLD UP AND NOT HAVE TO RESEAL ALL THE TIME UNDER FLUID SPILLS. OH THE CONCRETE HAS BEEN POURED NOW OVER A MONTH. THANKS
Shea says
Hi Reuben. If you are just looking to seal the concrete and don’t necessarily need a cosmetic coating, then we recommend this great combination which you can read about here. It’s an oil repelling penetrating sealer with a 100 year warranty that works in conjunction with a densifier. It’s not stain proof, but it is highly stain resistant. It will make clean ups easy and will not be nearly as expensive as epoxy for example for a floor that large.