A garage floor sealer sounds simple enough to protect and seal the concrete in your garage or workshop. But what does a sealer do for the concrete and which type should you use? Which sealer is best for your requirements and budget? Options include densifiers, siliconates, oil-repelling sealers, salt-repelling sealers, epoxy, polyurea, acrylics, and more. As you can see, it can become a bit overwhelming.
Don’t fret, it’s not as confusing as it may seem at first. Our goal is to explain the differences in sealers for a garage floor or workshop so that it’s much easier to understand. We will discuss how they work, how they are applied, and the benefits of each. This should help you determine what sealer will be best for your needs.
We include economical sealers that protect the bare concrete for a nice clean look, sealers for working garages and workshop floors, as well as decorative sealers and coatings. That’s right, garage floor coatings are sealers as well.
Penetrating Sealers VS Topical Sealers – What’s the Difference?
There are two distinct categories of garage floor sealers that determine performance, looks, and application requirements. They are penetrating sealers and topical sealers.
Though both types seal the concrete, they look and perform much differently from one another. With so many garage flooring options available, it’s important to get a basic understanding of each.
Penetrating Sealers
Penetrating sealers work by penetrating into the concrete upon application. They react with the minerals in the concrete to form a hard, gel-like molecular barrier in the subsurface. Otherwise known as non-film-forming sealers, they are breathable and do not form a coating on the concrete surface.
As a result, penetrating sealers do not change the look of bare concrete. And because they are non-film forming, they cannot be scratched if you drag a sharp object across the concrete surface. In addition, they will retain the same wet slip resistance of the current concrete surface.
Furthermore, penetrating sealers typically are the most economical sealing solution for a garage floor or workshop and one of the easiest of all garage flooring options to apply.
An important fact about penetrating sealers is that they are not waterproof as some people assume. Nor are they stainproof. This is due to the non-film-forming properties of the sealer.
Though they do a good job of repelling water and resisting automotive fluids, all liquids will eventually penetrate the concrete surface if allowed to sit long enough. How long they sit before penetration is determined by the type of sealer and the porosity of the concrete.
Lastly, liquids such as oil, automotive fluids, and other contaminants can stain if allowed to sit. How much they stain and how easily an oil stain cleans up are determined by the type of penetrating sealer applied and how long the oil or other contaminant was allowed to sit.
When it comes to stain resistance, the goal of a penetrating sealer is to provide enough time for spills and leaks to be cleaned up first before they have a chance to stain. This includes some of the newer oil-repelling sealers the industry has introduced to provide better stain resistance.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers / Coatings
Topical sealers adhere to the concrete surface with only slight penetration. Also known as film-forming sealers, they are more widely known as floor coatings or garage floor coatings. They form a protective layer that is typically non-breathable and can be impermeable depending on the coating used.
Many are 2-part resinous coatings that require mixing before application, though there are exceptions. They chemically cure and create a hard coating that is extremely durable. The thickness, abrasive properties, and chemical resistance of these coating sealers can vary depending on the type and quality of the coating that is used.
Paint and 1-part epoxy paint are not sealers or coatings. Don’t make this mistake! We discuss why here.
Most coatings are also considered decorative. Clear coatings will enhance the look of the garage floor surface. They tend to darken bare concrete, add character, and provide a matte to a glossy finish.
In addition, clear coating sealers are used to protect and highlight the colors of stained or dyed concrete. They make the colors pop with vibrancy and add shine.
Colored coatings completely change the look of the garage floor. Epoxy and polyurea garage floor coatings are great examples. You can opt for a solid color or add multi-colored acrylic flakes with a clear coat to create your own unique color palette.
Unlike penetrating sealers, topical sealers and coatings prevent the bare concrete from being stained by oils, automotive fluids, and chemicals. This is because the coating acts as a sacrificial barrier.
Furthermore, one large advantage of topical sealers over penetrating sealers is that the surface is very easy to keep clean.
Higher-performing coatings can also be extremely stain resistant. Oil, chemicals, salty road brines, and other fluids can sit for much longer periods. All that is required in most cases is wiping up the mess with a rag. A shot of Windex can remove any leftover film residue.
Lastly, many topical sealers and coatings will prevent the penetration of water and liquids into the concrete. This doesn’t necessarily make the entire garage floor waterproof. Exposed cracks and concrete joints can still allow water to seep into the concrete.
Now that we better understand the difference between penetrating garage floor sealers and topical garage floor sealers, let us discuss the various types available and what we can recommend.
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Recommended Penetrating Sealers for Garage Floors
There is a wide range of penetrating sealers for concrete to choose from. Therefore, it can easily become overwhelming if you don’t know what to look for.
There are silane concrete sealers, silicone sealers, siloxane sealers, siliconate sealers, densifiers, oleophobic concrete sealers, and more. Many are hybrids of each. Some are water-based, while others or solvent-based. Many do not work very well for a garage floor.
As a result, we will only discuss those penetrating sealers that we recommend and know to work best for a garage or workshop floor. In addition, we will discuss concrete prep that may be required and sealer application.
Siliconate Sealers
Siliconate sealers are a great choice for homeowners who just want good general protection of their bare concrete at a minimal cost with ease of application. Often considered the “all-purpose” sealer for garage floors and workshops, they are a great value as well.
Compared to other penetrating sealers, their medium-sized molecular structure does not allow the sealant to penetrate too deep. This provides for better coverage rates and more importantly, better protection of the concrete surface.
As a result, they provide good water repellency including repellency against moisture, road salts, and dirt. Siliconate sealers also resist efflorescence and provide good protection against freeze-thaw, which is the leading cause of spalling of concrete.
Learn more: Why Penetrating Siliconate Sealers May Be All You Need
One thing to keep in mind is that siliconate sealers do not repel oil. Though they will buy you some time for cleanup by slowing down penetration into the concrete, a stain can occur if oil is allowed to sit for long. However, the resulting stain will not be nearly as bad as an oil stain on untreated concrete.
As with the majority of penetrating sealers, the application is very easy. For most concrete surfaces, the only preparation required is to clean and degrease. Once the concrete has thoroughly dried, one coat of the sealer is applied using a low-pressure pump-up garden sprayer with a conical spray nozzle.
Densifiers and Densifier Sealers
Densifiers are a type of silicate sealer. They had been used primarily in the process of polishing concrete and for adding strength to newly poured concrete floors. However, with the introduction of easier-to-apply lithium silicate densifiers, they have become more popular for garage, workshop, and warehouse floors.
Densifiers work by reacting with minerals in the concrete to form a very hard substance called calcium silicate hydrate or CSH. The CSH fills many of the empty voids and pores of the concrete at and near the surface. This increases the density, strength, and hardness of the concrete in these areas.
Check the Current Price on our Top Recommended Densifier
In addition, the filling of these voids with CSH reduces concrete dusting. Furthermore, it slows down moisture intrusion from below the slab to help prevent efflorescence and moisture vapor. However, silicate densifiers do not repel water or other liquids.
As a result of their increasing popularity, manufacturers began adding siliconate to densifiers to provide water and liquid-repelling characteristics. This new type of densifier with siliconate sealer added provides the characteristics of a densifier plus, the same protections as a siliconate sealer as well.
Learn more: Why Densifiers are the New Garage Floor Sealer
As with siliconate sealers, densifiers do not repel oil. However, testing has shown that densifiers with siliconate sealer added do a better job at resisting oil stains than a stand-alone siliconate sealer only.
The application is similar to that of a siliconate sealer. However, more importance is emphasized on not letting the densifier puddle. If it does, it’s important to use a paint roller to roll out the excess or use a broom to work it into the concrete.
If allowed to dry with excess sealer on the surface, a white powder will form and require heavy scrubbing to remove.
Oil Repelling Penetrating Sealers
Oil-repelling penetrating sealers are fairly new to the market. They’ve come about due to the constant demand for a better-performing sealer against staining from oil and other automotive fluids for garage floors and workshops.
A unique ingredient of these sealers is the use of fluorocarbons to create an oleophobic barrier. Oleophobic refers to the physical property of a molecule to seemingly repel oil.
Oil will lay flat or even run on a concrete surface treated with typical penetrating sealers. This characteristic does not resist the penetration of oil nearly as well as water which typically beads from being repelled.
However, oil tends to bead somewhat on a concrete surface treated with an oleophobic sealer. This repelling action allows the oil to sit for a longer period with less chance of penetration into the concrete.
This repelling action allows for an easier cleanup of oils and other automotive fluids and less chance of an oil stain. However, this does not mean the concrete can’t be stained. As with all penetrating sealers, oil and other offending contaminants will stain eventually if allowed to sit long enough.
What oil-repelling penetrating concrete sealers do is allow more time for the oil to sit before cleanup. In addition, it can also make the removal of any offending stains easier.
The raw materials used for these sealers are more expensive. As a result, they cost more than typical penetrating sealers. In addition, one popular oil-repelling sealer that is known to work well also requires the application of a densifier first.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Single Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Oil-repelling sealers in most cases are the better choice to use on garage floors and workshops. However, the importance of these characteristics versus cost is something to consider if you are on a budget.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Dual Application Oil Repelling Sealer
Application of these sealers is a bit more involved but still fairly easy. The concrete must be degreased, clean, and dry. Depending on the sealer used, the application can require a wet flood coat using a pump-up sprayer or application via a lambswool pad or microfiber pad.
Topical Garage Floor Sealers and Coatings
The number of options for garage floor coatings and topical sealers is large. There are acrylic coatings and sealers, epoxy, polyurethane, polyurea, and polyaspartics. In addition, there are single-part moisture-cured coatings and 2-part coatings. And most come in a choice of clear or colored.
Furthermore, the application process, performance characteristics, and durability vary greatly. This includes what chemicals, stains, and abuse they can withstand.
As a result, this is an area where research before a purchase is paramount. Marketing campaigns by large corporations such as Rust-Oleum, Behr, QuikRete, H&C, and others have only served to confuse the consumer. This has led to many unhappy or misinformed purchases.
In addition, do not rely on information from home improvement centers. They are not knowledgeable about concrete coatings and they do not carry quality products in their inventory.
The following topical sealer options below are listed from low to high in approximate cost.
Acrylic concrete sealers
Acrylic concrete sealers form a thin protective layer on bare concrete. Most are clear, but some can be tinted for color. Expect 1 – 1.5 mils dry film thickness per coat on average.
They will enhance the look of the garage floor and make the concrete look slightly darker. The floor will attain a somewhat wet and glossy look or you can opt for a less flashy matte finish. Glossy finishes tend to be more durable.
In terms of performance, acrylic sealers will protect the garage floor from water and chloride intrusion. In addition, they provide light to moderate protection against oil, vehicle fluids, hot tire pick-up, and road salts.
Most acrylic sealers are also U.V. stable. This means that they will not turn a yellow tint if exposed to direct sunlight.
Water-based acrylic sealers are the least durable of all concrete coating options and the easiest to scratch. Solvent-based acrylics increase durability, scratch resistance, and chemical resistance from automotive fluids.
For a more durable alternative, we recommend the performance of MMA acrylic sealers. These have longer endurance properties than standard acrylic sealers and can withstand harsher chemicals.
Acrylic sealers perform best with light to moderate traffic. Reapplication may be required once every 18 to 36 months depending on the sealer used.
One DIY advantage of acrylic sealers is that they are fairly easy to apply. The concrete needs to be degreased, cleaned, and dry. Etching of the concrete is typically not required unless the surface is extremely smooth.
You can use either a low-pressure pump-up sprayer or apply it with a paintbrush and rollers out of a tray. The key to a successful application is to apply the coating thin or problems will develop. Typically, two coats are applied for the best protection.
Modified Acrylic Polyurethane Sealers
If you like the look of a clear sealer on bare concrete, then one of the best-performing values is a modified acrylic polyurethane.
This is a somewhat new sealer for garage floors that we feel is going to explode in popularity once the word gets out. It combines high performance and ease of application at a budget price.
Technically, they are a thin, 2-part water-based, high-performance, acrylic-modified, aliphatic polyurethane coating and sealer. Aliphatic means that they are U.V. stable and will not amber. In addition, they are Eco-friendly, and no etching of the concrete is required.
Acrylic-modified polyurethane sealers provide better abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, and stain resistance than most epoxy. They are a true workhorse sealer for garage floors and workshops.
A minimum of two thin coats is required. This will result in a dry film thickness of just under 2 mils. Three coats are recommended for commercial applications. They are one of the few topical sealers that will adhere well to machine-troweled concrete.
Learn More: Our Top Recommended Acrylic Modified Polyurethane
These are best used on smooth concrete with few repairs. Due to their thin nature, they are not recommended on rough garage floor finishes or concrete with numerous repairs. They are not thick enough to provide self-leveling properties such as epoxy or polyurea.
Furthermore, they will only adhere to bare, unsealed concrete and are not compatible as a clear sealer over epoxy or other coatings.
Application requires that the concrete be clean and dry. No etching of the concrete is required. The sealer is best applied using a low-pressure pump-up sprayer with a conical spray nozzle in conjunction with a microfiber application pad or 1/4″ low nap roller.
Epoxy Concrete Sealers
Undisputedly, the most popular sealer is garage floor epoxy. Epoxy is a 2-part thermosetting resin that is applied as a coating. It chemically cures to create polymer structures that are closely cross-linked. This is what gives epoxy its superior strength and durability.
Epoxy is available as a clear coat to bare concrete but is more commonly applied in solid colors. Finishes range from satin for low-budget formulas to a high gloss for commercial-quality epoxy.
The most durable applications are epoxy systems that include a minimum of a color coat, optional decorative color flakes, and a clear coat. Professionally installed garage floor coatings consist of such systems.
Learn more: How to Choose the Best Garage Floor Epoxy System
In addition, epoxy coating sealers are much thicker than acrylics. They can be applied thicker than any other coating available. Depending on the solids content, one coat of epoxy can be applied at 2.5 – 12 mils dry film thickness and higher.
Epoxy sealers can withstand heavy traffic and are abrasion resistant. Furthermore, most are non-breathable and will prevent water and chemical intrusion at the surface. They are resistant to most chemicals, oil, vehicle fluids, road salts, and hot tire pickup.
One disadvantage is that epoxy is not U.V. resistant. If exposed to direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight, it can turn a yellow tint (amber) over a period of time.
Single-coat DIY garage floor epoxy kits purchased from local home improvement centers are the least durable epoxy coatings. We explain more in detail here.
Epoxy sealer application is more involved and time-consuming compared to penetrating sealers. However, DIY application is very common. Application is done using paintbrushes and paint rollers.
Proper concrete preparation is essential or the coating will not adhere properly. Etching the concrete is required at the minimum. Grinding the concrete may be preferred for some applications, but it is not mandatory.
In addition, epoxy application is time sensitive. Once the two parts are mixed, you typically have 30 – 40 minutes to get the epoxy applied before it hardens up. Low-quality epoxy allows for more application time. This time limit is dependent on the solids content. The higher the solids content (thicker, higher-performing coatings), the less time you have to apply it.
Moisture Cured Direct to Concrete Polyurethane Sealers
Polyurethane is a high-performance coating with increased benefits over epoxy. Depending on the quality, it is typically more abrasion and scratch resistant than epoxy. It wears longer and is more chemical and stain resistant. And unlike epoxy, most polyurethanes are U.V. stable and will not amber.
Traditional polyurethane coatings are available in 2-part formulas or single-part moisture-cured formulas. Like acrylics, they are applied thinly with an average dry film thickness of 2-2.5 mils.
However, one issue with traditional polyurethane concrete coating sealers is that they do not bond well directly to concrete. Instead, they are used as a U.V. stable colored coating over epoxy or more commonly, as a clear coat over epoxy.
Fortunately, this bonding issue has recently changed with the introduction of newer moisture-cured polyurethanes designed specifically to bond directly to concrete. Moisture-cured coatings are single-part and do not require mixing in a second part to act as a catalyst to start the chemical curing process.
Instead, it uses moisture in the air as the catalyst. The coating is not activated until it is applied to the concrete and exposed to the moisture in the air. As a result, you have a much longer working time to apply the coating as compared to epoxy. This is a nice benefit for DIY installations.
Learn more: Our Top Recommended Moisture-Cured Polyurethane
Because these coatings are thin, they typically require a minimum of two color coats. One clear coat is sufficient if applied to bare concrete. However, two are recommended for more durability if it’s a busy working garage or workshop.
This type of coating sealer will not do a good job of hiding irregularities in the concrete due to its thin nature. High solids epoxy is better for that.
Application of direct to concrete moisture-cured polyurethane sealers is varied. The concrete must be clean, degreased, and completely dry throughout.
In addition, most require that the surface be acid etched. However, polyurethanes such as DuraGrade Concrete by Rust Bullet do not require etching in many cases. This can be a huge benefit to DIY installers that do not want to deal with additional concrete prep. Like most coatings, it is applied with paint rollers and brushes.
Polyurea and Polyaspartic floor sealers
Last on the list are the newer polyurea and polyaspartic floor coating sealers. These are a sub-group of polyurethane and have a similar finish to epoxy and polyurethane coated floors.
They are U.V. stable and can provide better protection than polyurethane. They also provide the best resistance against brown tire prints in the coating.
Unlike epoxy and polyurethane, many of these coatings can be applied in extreme temperatures from below freezing to over 100 degrees, depending on the formula.
What makes these coatings popular is their extremely fast return-to-service times. They can be installed on your garage floor in one day and driven on the next. Most polyurea and polyaspartic coatings need to be applied by a professional due to their very short working time. Twenty minutes or less is typical.
There are newer polyurea coating sealers that have been introduced that are much more DIY-friendly. They can provide up to two hours to get the coating applied depending on the polyurea or polyaspartic formula.
Learn more: Why the best DIY Garage Flooring Kits are Single-Part Polyurea
These long application times reduce the common anxiety of getting the coating applied in enough time. As a result, they can be an excellent choice for a DIY application.
We highly recommend the newer single-part polyurea coatings. These are commercial-quality, moisture-cured coatings that will last 10-15 years or more on a garage floor.
Final thoughts
We have a few considerations for you to keep in mind when deciding which garage floor sealer is best for you.
If you have issues with moisture coming up through the concrete, a penetrating garage floor sealer is generally the better choice. Because they are breathable, they will not be affected by moisture vapor. As we discussed, they may also serve to block or reduce moisture coming up from underneath the concrete slab.
Acrylic sealers are breathable and will tolerate low levels of moisture. Resinous topical sealers and coatings such as epoxy, polyurethanes, and polyurea will not allow for moisture transfer. They can peel and even pull small chunks of concrete up with it if moisture gets trapped under the coating. Moisture testing should be conducted if you suspect it may be an issue before applying a topical sealer.
If you use your garage or workshop for metal fabrication and welding, a penetrating sealer may be the better option. Coatings will get damaged if sharp metal objects are dragged across the surface. They will also incur burn marks from welding slag or heavy metal grinding.
Lastly, take the time to evaluate your requirements. Be realistic in terms of what you want a concrete sealer to do for your garage floor or workshop. No penetrating or film-forming topical sealer and coating are perfect. Compromises may need to be made, particularly if budget is a concern.
Claudia says
Hello Shea,
We have just recently rented a concrete grinder and removed old paint on the floor and smoothed out the surface in our Commercial Kitchen.
We would like to either seal it in its naturally glory or first stain and then seal with a semi gloss finish.
It will be a high foot traffic area and we do not want slips and falls.
What would you recommend ?
Greatly appreciate all your information you are sharing – Thanks : )
Shea says
Hello Claudia, you have a few choices actually depending on how thick you need the sealed coating to be. A high build clear epoxy with a couple top coats of polyurethane is one option. A polyurea coating is another if you don’t need a high build. Both the polyurethane and polyurea is excellent for high traffic areas. You will mix in anti-slip grip into the final coat to provide a non-slip surface. We recommend that you contact Scotty at Legacy Industrial. They carry a variety of commercial quality coatings as well as the various types of acid and acetone stains. He can make the proper recommendation for you including the size of the anti-slip granules depending on the coating you use.
Trisha Smith says
Hello Shea,
I have a question. I have already purchased Behr 1 part epoxy concrete paint and I had read in your comments that those 1 part epoxy paints are not very durable. I have also bought the Behr bonding primer. This is a surprise for my brother and I’m stressed out now. I was going to put a clear topcoat over the paint and color flakes but the seal-krete topcoat I was going to use says not to put on epoxy paint. Please help me know what to do. I have already bought all this stuff and I don’t want to mess it up. What type of clear topcoat can be put on 1 part epoxy concrete paint and color flakes?
Thank you
Trisha
Shea says
Hi Trisha. 1-Part epoxy paints are not designed to receive clear top coats. They are essentially latex acrylic paint with some epoxy added to give it more durability. Technically you could apply a water based 2-Part epoxy clear, but it would require waiting for the paint to completely dry first and then roughing up the finish to apply the clear. Plus, it’s more expensive, it won’t keep the 1-Part paint from peeling underneath it, and it makes no sense to pay more money for a 2-Part epoxy clear without doing a 2-Part epoxy color base.
Behr does make a product called Wet-Look Sealer that can be applied to paint, but it will not stand up well at all in a garage environment. Our suggestion is to apply the product as intended. It will look nice for while and may last a year or so. If your brother really likes the look, he can always grind it off when it deteriorates and then apply a better system.
K Ebert says
Hello – we just acid stained our basement floor and then used Consolideck LS (a lithium silicate sealer) over the top to strengthen the top layer (we had an issue with the original pour that decreased the durability of the top lay of concrete, I was told this would solve that problem). It left white residue all over the floor, I go most if it scrubbed off (called manufacturer this shouldn’t affect the sealer).
I am now trying to figure out the best option for creating a durable wet look finish to the floor. Its inside so VOCs are an issue. I am suffering a little from information overload and just want to make sure I get this right.
Shea says
Hello K. A sealer is really going to make the color in the stain pop. You have a couple of choices. An acrylic sealer is the easiest to apply and is available in a glossy finish. It’s a very good choice in a basement because it breathes and can let moisture vapor release. Legacy Industrial has a very nice MMA acrylic which you can read about here. It is available in low VOC options. It will do very well under foot traffic and is easy to reapply should you ever have to.
Your other choices are the 2-part resinous coating, such as epoxy, and are more complex to apply. Epoxy is available in low VOC’s, but it can show scratches easily if you have a darker stain. It needs to be top coated with a polyurethane or polyurea to create a real glossy finish that is much more scratch resistant. They key is finding a top coat with low VOC’s. You will need to do a moisture test for sure if you want to use this type of sealer since you are in a basement. We suggest calling and talk to a good concrete coating vendor like Legacy Industrial or Garage Flooring LLC for example. They can guide you through making the best decision based on your requirements and skills. Stay away from the big box stores as they really don’t have anyone that experienced with concrete coatings.
Craig says
My boys 10-8 play mini sticks (hockey) in basement on a concrete floor. What is the best sealant to use that well/may allow them slide without ruining thirst socks and pants?
Shea says
Hello Craig. You need to use a topical coating/sealer to create a smooth surface. Keep in mind, some will stand up to the abuse of hockey sticks better than others in terms of scratching or marring the surface. Acrylic sealers are the easiest to apply and they will breath in order to allow some moisture to pass through. Epoxy is a much tougher coating but requires more work to apply. In either case, a moisture test should be conducted first to determine if only one or both types of product can be used.
Tony says
We have a just built home in the snowy Midwest. Looking for a no-nonsense garage floor protection against wintry elements (salt, deicers, etc) that lasts for 10+ years. Would one of the two penetrating sealers work for us? Which one and why?
Thank you for your time.
Shea says
Hello Tony. For your particular needs we would recommend a siliconate penetrating sealer. It will provide the best protection against salt intrusion and the elements. You can learn more about them and why they do well here.
AJ says
my one-year-old concrete basement floor has some significant cracking (15′ long cracks, about 1/8″ wide), and I was thinking of putting a sealer on it for the time being. eventually (in 5 years or so) we will probably want to put a more foot-friendly flooring on top of it, with possibly an electric in-floor heating system. so, I have two questions:
1) will a sealer need to be ground off before putting a new flooring on top of the concrete; and
2) should I look into chipping out the crack and applying a concrete patch before sealing? and what sealing system would work best, considering our plans down the road? (i guess that’s really 2a and 2b!)
thanks!
Shea says
Hello AJ. We definitely recommend repairing the cracks for now and apply a good penetrating sealer. Penetrating sealers do not leave a topical film on the concrete. Concrete Sealers USA has excellent product for this and can answer any questions you have about proper application.
As far as grinding the floor, it really depends on what type of floor you want to put down in 5 years. Tile for example can be laid on concrete with a penetrating sealer. Epoxy on the other hand will need to have the floor ground. It just depends on what you want to do.
Christy says
Hi,
We have a 17 year old garage floor that has weathered through two little dogs spending the day on it while we were at work. There are stains everywhere and still has a little smell (which thankfully dissipated over the last two years). Our garage recently has had a few rodent tenets as well. We are looking for a very budget friendly way to seal our two car garage floor. There is no moisture problem and there are no windows for sun damage. How could we get our garage floor clean and looking nice again? We want a safe, clean garage for storage that is safe for our toddler to play on while we are in the garage.
Thank you for your help!!!!
Shea says
Hello Christy. Is a bare concrete surface that is sealed OK for you or do you want something topical that adds gloss or color?
Christy says
Either one but I preferably don’t want to see the stains. We are up for anything that helps our floor look nice. 🙂 I’d prefer to cover all the staining if possible 🙂 Color and/or gloss would definitely be okay.
Shea says
You have a few choices for sealer/coatings Christy. An actual epoxy coating will cover the stains with color and seal the concrete at the same time. The budget friendly options are products like Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield or Quikrete as examples. We have an article about them here. It requires that you acid etch the floor prior to application. This will help with the pet smell since the acid works well at cancelling out the pH base of urine. It’s also not a breathable sealer, meaning that it should stop the smell from coming through the coating in most cases.
Another budget friendly option would be to apply a glossy type of sealer. If you do this, you will need to treat the stains the best you can first. Have you used any of the enzyme pet urine cleaners that are available today? They work quite well at killing the smells.
What’s nice about a clear glossy type of sealer is that it gives character to the floor. Stains, small cracks, and uneven coloring of the concrete are highlighted somewhat. Think of a distressed wood table top with a nice finish as an example. Garage Flooring LLC has a new urethane clear sealer that is very easy to apply and does not require the same concrete preparation as other coatings. It’s called TLPPC Clear Sealer. You can find it here. We are very impressed by it and will be doing an article soon. These types of sealers are breathable however and is why you want to treat the smell as best you can first.
Tim says
Hi, I have a 2 car garage floor that I’d love to change the look of. Water does come up from time to time. What kind of options do I have?
Shea says
Hello Tim. The first that comes to mind is interlocking garage floor tiles. These are an excellent option for garage floors with moisture issues. You could also try sealing the floor with a penetrating sealer and then do a moisture test afterwards to see if it has eliminated your moisture issues. If it does, then most any flooring will work.
Jim Holiday says
I have a new construction 26×30 garage, I will be doing some hobbist type torch cutting, grinding and welding as well as some automotive repairs. I’m concerned as to what would be the best type of sealer/coating to use as I am afraid of blistering, pitting and oil, antifreeze staining. Any input as to what would be the best product type to use would be greatly appreciated, thank you for you time and thoughts on this. Jim
Shea says
Hello Jim. Something to keep in mind is that there is not a sealer or coating made that will protect concrete from hot slag from cutting torches or welding. Even bare concrete will burn from such work. Burn marks in concrete will not affect penetrating sealers in most cases as long as the concrete doesn’t get so hot that it expands and pops out in chunks. Welding blankets are your friend here if you are doing work in close proximity of the floor.
This densifier/sealer combo is and excellent choice if you don’t mind the bare concrete. The sealer will not be affected by the welding and will do a good job of resisting stains as long as they don’t sit a long time. You can always go with a premium epoxy type coating if you want something more decorative. It will stand up to automotive chemicals and be very easy to clean. Many people who do hobby work such as yours have this type of flooring with great results as long as you protect it from the welding. Grinding usually isn’t an issue.
Connie says
Recently we purchased a house and found that the garage has a very strong pet odor (dog), especially when its humid or rainy. The seller attempted several times to clean it, but was unsuccessful. The new company they have hired suggests the following: Clean the floors with a degreaser to remove dog oils, followed by an enzyme to combat dog urine, etch floor with acid, and then seal the floor with a sealant. They also suggest painting the walls and ceiling with shellac to block odors that may have absorbed into the drywall. They are trying to cover all bases since previous methods have not worked. Do you think this is the right process? Which sealant should be used, a topical or a penetraing one? Is epoxy the better choice in this situation vs a regular sealant? What suggesions do you have?
Shea says
Hello Connie. That is a good plan, however, we would recommend acid etching first and then use a good enzyme for urine. The acid etch will open up the pores of the concrete surface and allow the enzyme to penetrated deeper within the concrete and be more effective. If you suspect urine in the drywall, the only real way to fix the problem is to replace the lower 2 or 3 feet of drywall. Shellac is just going to help mask the odor from exiting from one side. The odor, if bad, can still make it’s way through the framing and emerge in different areas depending on weather conditions.
For sealing the garage floor you will want something that is non breathable. If it’s breathable the odor can come back to the surface if it’s not completely gone. That eliminates most penetrating sealers and acrylic sealers. A resinous coating (topical) such as epoxy or polyurea is non breathable and would be your best solution.
Connie says
Thank you for your excellent advice. It has been most helpful! I do have another question. The drywall doesn’t start on the wall for about 2-3 feet as it is a concrete foundation and the concrete runs up that high. The technician is going to etch and enzyme it as well. My question is about the use of the shellac on the drywall. Is it possible, based upon your comment about the shellac blocking odor on one side, that it could push the odor the opposite way, which would then force it into the kitchen? Would you recommend the shellac at all because of that? I have not smelled it in the kitchen at this point, but of course, there is no shellac on the other side in the garage. I think it needs it, as a best try effort, but would not want to create a bigger problem by having the odor then in the house instead of the garage. Maybe that is not even possible, but just trying to make sure we don’t create a problem in that regard. Thanks again for your expertise. It is much appreciated.
Shea says
Are you positive that the drywall was sprayed with urine Connie? It’s unusual for urine to be much higher than two feet off the floor. Since the foundation runs two to three feet high, the drywall may not be affected. If it wasn’t sprayed, then you should not have any issues. If it was, then you do run a chance of the smell seeping through to the other side if you shellac it. It just really depends on how bad it initially is. That is why most contractors who have to deal with pet urine in the drywall just cut it out a few feet off the ground, replace it, and re-tape.
Carol says
I have a 30+ year old house, two car uninsulated garage with a slightly sloping garage floor that has some long cracks in it. The average temperature highs and lows are 58 and 37F. The record highs and lows are 100 and -32 F. We do get some snow sometimes and I guess salt might be tracked in from the roads sometimes.
I don’t know if I can afford it, but I would love a floor that covers the concrete look (garage floor coating – pigmented finish – love the look of this in the photo above)) and would last for a long time (durable, chip-resistant finish in my climate). A topical sealer sounds like it might be the thing. Epoxy concrete sealer? All my garage windows have obscure glass, so might not have to worry about UV?
OR would polyurethane be a better choice. It does snow here and that can make the garage floor wet. Don’t want to fall!
Like epoxy, most polyurethanes can be slippery when wet. Because they have a thinner film thickness than epoxy, polyurethane makes for a great top coat to apply with an anti-slip agent. Application difficulty and dry time is similar to epoxy as well. Though a little more expensive, polyurethane may be what you need if you have a garage floor that is exposed to sunlight and you want something other than a glossy finish.
What do you suggest?
Shea says
Hi Carol. We would recommend Nohr-S by Legacy Industrial. It’s a single component polyurea that is U.V. resistant and will not yellow. It’s easy to apply though it does require the same type of floor prep as epoxy. Like polyurethane, it’s more flexible than epoxy and can be applied in cooler temperatures as well. It would stand up very well to the type of conditions that you describe. We would just recommend a adding an anti-slip grit into the final coat. Legacy also has a good epoxy gel concrete crack filler called HD821 that would work well for your cracks. Just grind the repair flush after it cures and you won’t know it’s there after the coating is applied.
Juli cannon says
Hi,
I have an interior room in my home used as a studio. I’ve just painted the concrete floor with Valspar acrylic floor paint. I sit, swivel and roll across the floor in a chair. What is the best sealer to use for a gloss finish on the floor that will hold up to the chair rolling across? Thanks much!
Shea says
Hi Juli. Acrylic floor paint is designed as a stand alone product and is not intended to be used with sealers and clear coats. It’s a paint, not a coating. That said, you can apply a water based acrylic clear coat to the paint to achieve a glossy look. It requires roughing up the surface with 150 grit sandpaper first. The problem, however, is that water based acrylic clear is not going to stand up to your chair much better than than the paint does. A solvent based acrylic is tougher, but it will soften the acrylic paint underneath.
Donnie says
Hi,
I just built a 36 x 56 metal pole barn that is not insulated. What would be the best way to seal the concrete floor to protect it from oil, antifreeze, and other fluids? There is no vapor barrier under the concrete and I have been told an epoxy sealer wouldn’t work well without a vapor barrier. I was hoping to add color and seal because the finished concrete appears spotty, (dark gray spots) possibly from the use of a power trowel even though the surface is nice and smooth. What are my options if any?
Shea says
Hello Donnie. What you were told about a vapor barrier is not necessarily true. Epoxy is a sealer and does not breathe. If water vapor is trying to escape up through the slab, enough of it can collect under the epoxy, build pressure, and cause it to delaminate. If the slab is above grade, drainage is away from the slab, and you don’t live in a real wet climate where water will settle around the building, then epoxy should not be an issue. It is installed everyday on concrete that does not have a vapor barrier.
If epoxy is still not an option, then you need to settle for a sealer that breathes. This unfortunately removes most color options since most breathable sealers are penetrating and not topical coatings. TLPPC is the first option that comes to mind. You can read about it here. It’s a breathable polyurethane penetrating sealer that builds a coating at the surface with multiple coats. You could stain the concrete, however, before application to create color. Your remaining options will be penetrating sealers such as these here.
Mike Howard says
Greetings from foggy San Francisco.
Garage floor smells strong and odor has lingered for 2 months. Power washing does not remove the smell. Car owner left gas in tank for years and it became turpentine mixed with other noxious substances. Is there any paint combination for cement that might cover the smell in the garage floor? We are not worried about yellowing, just the odor. Thank you.
Shea says
Hello Mike. Before you decide to try and mask the odor with a coating, you may want to try an enzyme oil eating product first. This one here is a good example. Micro-bacteria in these products actually eat and digest oil and other hydrocarbons. Besides removing stains, they do a good job at removing the odor associated with oils as well. They work real well, but it does take time – two to three weeks on average. They are not as well heard of because people are always looking for instant results.
After you do that and you still feel that the odor needs to be masked, you will need to apply a non breathable coating. Typical penetrating sealers and some coating, such as acrylic, are breathable and will allow the molecules that carry the odor to pass through the coating. Most epoxy and/or polyurea coating are non-breathable, however, and the type of product you would want to use. A single clear coat or color coat would be the minimum required.
Mary Fritz says
Hi Shea,
I am just finished building a Ceramic Studio in Michigan. The slab was poured in November 2015. It has radiant floor heat. My studio is going to be a dusty and wet working area. I like to hose the floor down the floor drain. I want to seal the floor but don’t want it to become too slippery. I also don’t like the additives that make the floor textured because it is impossible to clean.
Great and informative site. Thank You.
Shea says
Hello Mary. If you don’t need a colored coating, it sounds like you could benefit for a siliconate sealer. You can read about it here.
Rick says
My neighbor’s detached garage burned down last month and is currently being rebuilt. It was a total loss and has been demolished and hauled off.
The building contractor determined that the concrete foundation and slab floor was not significantly damaged and could be used for the new structure. But it is discolored with black.
Can 2-part epoxy be used to cover this discoloration? I guess the question is really, will it bond to this discolored/burned concrete surface if it’s power washed and pretreated with a bonding agent first?
Or is there some other product or pretreatment that would work better?
Thanks
Shea says
Hello Rick. The black is soot which needs to be completely removed before the concrete can be coated. You can try pressure washing follow by an acid etch. The etching process preps the concrete for epoxy. If that does not remove all the soot then you will need to grind the surface to remove it and prep for epoxy.
Bruce says
We have a concrete parking pad, garage floor, plus front walk and steps which we wish to protect and make more attractive. Can one type of coating be used for both? We live in Alberta where the exterior temperatures can range from minus 40 degrees C. (rarely) to 35 degrees C. (more frequently thanks to climate change). Mean temperature is 3.6 degrees C.
Shea says
Hi Bruce. Coatings can have a very attractive look with quite a few benefits. However, they are not the best to use outdoors in cold weather with ice and snow where clearing walks and drives with shovels and other means can damage a coating. Plus, they can be very slippery in these conditions unless an anti-slip aggregate is used. Penetrating sealers work best for concrete out doors and will attain the same slip resistance as bare concrete. A good MMA arcylic sealer with an anti-slip aggregate can be used outdoors, but it would most likely need to be reapplied in the spring if it’s damaged from clearing methods. Your best bet would be to use a decorative coating for the garage and a penetrating sealer or acrylic sealer for the rest.
Tara says
Shea, we just built a 24’x44′ three car garage that we are living in until we build our home. The concrete is unfinished and I am working my self silly trying to keep it clean and cannot do so. I want to seal it and am not sure what to use since we will be living in this space for a few years, then it will be a garage. I know I need to clean it before sealing what is the best way to clean it before sealing?
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Shea says
Hello Tara. We have an article about cleaning garage floors that you can read here. An acrylic sealer would create a nice smooth finish that is very easy to keep clean. This is a common sealer in homes that have stained or decorative concrete. Another option would be a siliconate sealer. It won’t make the concrete much smoother, but it helps to keep it clean and stain resistant.
Ernie says
Shea, very informative. Thanks. We are building a new house and want to seal three car garage floor after its done. We are thinking epoxy but are having a few doubts about it. On our current house we did expoxy coating and within several months it was coming up at car tires location (suspect hot tire effect). We didn’t expect this given what we had read about expos coatings. We were concerned we didn’t do a proper chemical etching of the concrete before we coated it. So, for our new garage, we are torn about going with epoxy again. Do you think careful etching a new concrete floor is a good way to ensure good coating and strength of an epoxy coating? secondly, should we wait on coating a new concrete floor? The floor will be about 4months old before we get possession of the new home. Thanks!
Shea says
Hello Ernie. Hot tire pick up with epoxy has just as much to with proper concrete prep as does using a quality, high solids epoxy. You may want to read this article about hot tire pick up. Did you use a typical epoxy DIY kit that you can get from home improvement stores? We highly recommend using a quality high solids epoxy, preferably with an epoxy primer in order to get an epoxy floor that will last for years with no hot tire pick up. We have an article about better epoxy systems here. A good acid etch will generally provide adequate profiling of the concrete for epoxy, particularly if you use an epoxy primer prior to a high solids epoxy. Most low solids epoxy coatings do fine with an acid etch. If the prep is any more aggressive (grinding), then you may need to use two coats of color in order to get good color uniformity since much of the first coat will penetrate the surface. In terms of a new slab, you need to wait a minimum of 30 days before applying a topical coating, so 4 months is fine.
Monique says
Hi- love your site and information. We have concreted the side of our house and turned it into a dog run. We live in Los Angeles and the run is exposed to the sun and heat. It smells of dog urine despite hosing it off daily and installing drains. We have sealed the concrete with something in the past that helped control the odor for a little while. The prep to repeat the process is laborious. We would like to know what product we should use that will do the best job to control the odor and last the longest after we invest the next round of labor and money into it. Looking forward to your reply.
Shea says
Hello Monique. You didn’t say what you treated the concrete with previously, but it sounds like you will need to grind the concrete well in order to remove the previous sealer and apply something else. One option is to apply an actual coating. Nohr-S by Legacy Industrial is a single component polyurea coating that is easy to apply and comes standard in a clear. The coating is not breathable, meaning that it should lock in any remaining odor and it will not allow fluids (urine) to penetrate the coating to get to the concrete. It’s easy to wash off and keep clean. This is the type of coating that is commonly used in high end dog kennels. Coatings are not typically used outdoors since it can be slippery when wet for people and most will turn yellow from exposure to the sun. However, Nohr-S is U.V. resistant and should not yellow. Plus, dogs don’t slip nearly as easily as people do.
The other option is a quality commercial penetrating sealer. These are less expensive and even easier to apply. We believe a siliconate sealer may be your best bet for this since it will not wear away. If you are interested in this route, we recommend giving Chris a call at Concrete Sealers USA tell him your dilemma. He is extremely knowledgeable when it comes to concrete sealers and can make the best recommendation for you regarding pet urine.
Lucille says
We acid washed our basement floor, applied a water based stain and then coated with Behr acrylic water based concrete brick and tile sealer. It looks great but in high traffic areas scratches have removed the coating and the stain. We regret using the water based coating even though it was easy to apply. Can we overcoat with polyurethane or epoxy sealer or is the acrylic our only option. I have heard a floor wax can help to protect the acrylic. Is this true? And can we reapply the acrylic over the wax as it is recommended that the acrylic be reapplied every 18 months.
Shea says
Hi Lucille. Yes, a resinous coating such as epoxy, polyurea, or an epoxy polyurethane combo is the best type of coating and does not require reapplication. However, it would require grinding the concrete down to it’s bare form first in order to create the correct profile for the coating to adhere. This of course would require restaining as well.
Our suggestion is to apply the floor wax first before you decide to redo everything. This is a very common procedure that is used within many homes with decorative concrete treated with acrylic sealers. After you have fixed the area where the stain has worn, reapply a new coat of acrylic. Once it has cured, apply the floor wax. The wax acts as the sacrificial layer over the acrylic and protects it. The idea is to not let the wax wear completely away. This way it protects the acrylic and it never has to be reapplied again. If you do let it wear through and damage the acrylic, you would need to completely strip the wax from the floor before applying new acrylic. Acrylic will not bond to wax.
Josh Miller says
I am going to put down quikrete garage floor coating in my garage and want to cover it with something other then epoxy clear. can i use a polyutrthane clear over the top? or is there something better?
Shea says
Yes you can Josh, but you won’t find it at a home improvement center. We suggest reading this article first about clear coats and then this one on how to choose a clear coat.
Phil says
My daughter is moving into a loft conversion in a building that is about 140 years old and want to expose the concrete floors. First I’ve heard that concrete gets harder with age?? I plan on grinding the floors as you describe. Will I be able to grind these very old floors? Second, what sealer would you recommend? She doesn’t want it stained, just sealed. Is there a satin sheen sealer?
Shea says
Yes, you can grind the floors Phil. A popular look for bare concrete indoors is a topical acrylic sealer. The best are the MMA arcylic sealers since they are the most resistant to wear and food stains. Here is an example of one on a garage floor. Legacy Industrial has their HD6525 MMA acrylic which is available in a gloss finish, matte gloss, and satin gloss. Most pictures you see of acrylics are with the high gloss finish. Because MMA’s are solvent based, it’s important to have good ventilation and any open flames extinguished before application.
If you want a sealer that is not topical but still gives a satin sheen, Legacy Industrial also offers their HD40 stain guard sealer. It requires multiple coats and buffing with a floor buffer. We have an article about a reader who used it here. Since you are grinding the concrete, it may require the application of a densifer first before applying the HD40. Either way, we would recommend giving them a call and ask for Scotty if you are interested in either of these types of products. Scotty is great with the DIY crowd and can help with your application questions.
Gary says
I live in Iowa and have a two car, cast in place, capped garage floor that is 22 years old. It has a power trowel finish and is in very good condition except for a few small areas that have some finish damage from acids/corrosive leakage. The garage area underneath is not heated and can get down to around 45F in the winter. I want to apply a good sealer to the upstairs garage so the floor does not begin to get damaged from the road salts that are used in the winter. What would be the best type of sealer to use? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Shea says
Hello Gary. If you are looking to retain the bare concrete look of your garage floor, then a siliconate penetrating sealer makes for an excellent choice. We have more information about siliconates here. If the surface of the concrete is extremely smooth and beads water, you may need a mild acid etch first in order for it to penetrate properly. If you are unsure, just contact the toll free number of product you select to get further clarification.
Donna says
I am building a barn for goats in N. California. The barn connects to a Garden Room with feed and tool areas between. The concrete foundation floor has not yet been poured. I want the barn floor to be sealed so that acid from goat urine does not penetrate and smell. In the garden room, I want the concrete to be stained and sealed for attractiveness and durability. My questions are: What is the best sealer that will prevent urine from staining or soaking into cement? Do sealers have to be reapplied over time? Would you recommend concrete additives that will seal the concrete further? Any suggestions you have for sealers or coatings would be greatly appreciated.
Shea says
Hello Donna. For the room you are going to stain you will need a clear topical, film forming sealer. The reason is that all stains for concrete look dull after application until a topical sealer is added. It makes the colors “pop” and come alive. Penetrating sealers will not do this since they penetrate into the concrete. Nohr-S by Legacy Industrial is a great choice and will last for years. It does not need to be reapplied and will stand up to all kinds of abuse. It will not stain or discolor from urine as well. Another good choice is SPGX by ArmorPoxy. Both of these products are single component polyurea coatings that are easy to apply. We would recommend them for the barn floor as well. These type of coating completely seal the concrete and will not let urine penetrate the surface. It will just sit on top. Just give either one of these vendors a call and they would be happy to assist you.